Any area of a private house, whether it be walls, floor or ceiling, must be insulated properly. Depending on the quality of the work performed, the cost of energy resources for heating will decrease or increase accordingly. Warming is carried out with the accompanying insulation layers - the residential object will emit moisture, steam.
Below are described ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands, the criteria for choosing the best insulation and detailed manual for installation for home masters - independent work will significantly save the family budget.
Why the ceiling is insulated
The concept - heat loss at home - is especially important for private facilities, unlike multi-unit municipal housing. A separate house must be insulated from all sides, since the "neighbors" are absent and there is no constant maintenance of an acceptable climate. If you only insulate the walls and floor, and at the same time ignore the ceiling, the owners will not get the proper comfort, but the astronomical accounts for the resources - please. Why?
From the radiators, warm air rises, mixing with the cold and reverse process occurs. If the streams stay for a long time at the ceiling, heating it, then the time to reach a comfortable temperature will require much more, hence the increase in the amount of firewood, gas, electricity. Corresponding and costs.
The insulated ceiling, on the contrary, does not need heating, as the space of the room is reliably separated by the warming layers from the attic space. Consequently, the exchange of temperatures will occur faster. So, the importance of warming the ceiling space is clear and not discussed.
Than to warm a ceiling qualitatively and inexpensively
The construction industry offered a lot of insulation options. The price aspect should not be put at the head of the issue - what to insulate the ceiling, because it is about your own comfort.
Let's analyze some of the materials that traditionally go to the insulation of the ceiling:
Mineral or basalt cotton wool. Unlike its predecessor - glass wool - it is convenient to work with. It does not prick, does not emit any smells. Its thickness is enough for one heat insulation circuit. Available in convenient forms - mats, rolls. For a private house has a major advantage in the incombustibility - it does not even smolder. The price is perfectly acceptable.
Nevertheless, this type of insulation has a serious disadvantage in the form of hygroscopicity and caking. Even a small amount of moisture trapped inside the insulation mat can expose large spaces, which makes the idea of insulation with cotton wool lost.
If, after all, the owners choose this option, it is necessary to securely insulate, waterproof the roof and cover the cotton wool with multi-layer protective layers, since the resulting condensate can form in a cold attic room, colliding with warm streams from the insulated ceiling.
Expanded clay. Mineral construction material but it's worth knowing that in the cold region, at least 50 mm of the layer will be required, and given the additional insulation, the weight of the insulation will affect the load-carrying capacity of the wooden floors. It is better to use a mineral to insulate the floor.
Sawdust and clay. In the old days they used such materials, others were not. However, they proved themselves well. Parts of sawdust and dry crushed or powdered clay were mixed and poured into wooden boxes overlapping. There are some disadvantages of the method - sawdust attracts mice and soaks up moisture. Therefore, before filling, insulation works are made, raw materials are dried or even calcined in the sun, mixed with slaked lime or carbide.
In addition to the biological threat, exposure to mold and fungus, sawdust is flammable. They are sprinkled with a layer of waste slag and reliably protect the box from the direct vicinity of the chimney - its hot bricks can make smolder, and then ignite the whole mass. Many masters use sawdust in combination with cement, however, as in the case with expanded clay, the layer turns out to be heavy - the use is impractical.
Styrenes. The best insulation for any surface is air. In the case of styrofoam slabs, this is true - the air is enclosed in a shell, which makes the weight of even wide plates small. Styrenes - penofol, penokleks, polystyrene, polyurethane - are suitable for the insulation of the ceiling as best as possible, since 5 cm of insulation is comparable with bricklaying in 30 cm.
It is important to remember that the materials are not combustible, but smoldering and emitting dangerous gases into the atmosphere.
Sprayable materials - ecowool, expanded polystyrene. The first option is absolutely ecological, since it is cellulose. The second is an analog of styrene plates. Self-sputtering, perhaps, but expensive - the cylinders are not too capacious. It is better to order service to professionals. The advantage of sprayed insulation in quality - not one centimeter of the area will be missed. In addition, the materials are not combustible and have good adhesion to surfaces. Arrange sprayed insulation, then completely eliminate the cold bridges in the house.
But there is a drawback - the impermeability of steam. It will be necessary to create high-quality ventilation, otherwise the microclimate of the house will become uncomfortable, and in some cases unsuitable for living. Consequences of condensate sedimentation on the walls are known - mold, dampness.
Plaster warmant mixtures. In private homes do not enjoy popularity, as they require a large preparatory base. However, for non-wooden objects, such an application is advisable - the application of the plaster composition immediately takes a decorative finishing finish or becomes a base for another coating.
Bung. Decorative environmentally friendly material. Dear. Wood, as is known, is a warm raw material, but, nevertheless, whimsical - it burns, is covered with mold, represents a treat for a beetle. Warming can occur without the obligatory for all materials of hydro and steam insulation, as the raw material itself has sufficient throughput. The decorative look will combine practicality with design.
The list is incomplete, however, it included popular materials for insulation. All others are produced on their basis. Prices vary, but it is not worth pursuing cheapness. It is better to consider the possibility of self-styling for each species - saving on invited teams is essential.
Methods of insulation of ceilings in a private house
There are only two of them - the insulation of the ceiling from the outside and from the inside.
Consider the advantages and disadvantages of each.
Insulation of the ceiling from the outside
Stacking insulation from the attic space, the home master leaves the height of the room unchanged, which, naturally, will positively affect the number of useful meters. In addition, it is convenient to always work from above, rather than from below - pour clay, tightly lay mats and plates. However, this method of insulation always involves mandatory protection of the roof, otherwise the occurrence of condensate from the temperature drop is inevitable.
Insulation of the ceiling from the inside
Internal insulation allows prolonging the durability of the material - dryness, space ventilation, absence of temperature drops. However, you will have to steal altitude meters.
It is logical to assume that it is best to use the first option for the insulation of the ceiling. In addition, then the attic becomes suitable for use in residential purposes. It is important to remember that the pie should have a good vapor barrier.
We warm the ceiling of the frame house with our own hands
The principles of laying any insulation are the same. Consider the whole process using the example of applying basalt wool in the first way - outside.
What will be required:
- Steam insulation. This is a foil-sealed membrane. It is laid with a metallized side outward.
- Waterproofing. In this capacity, a PVC film or a roll of rubber acts.
- Drywall. It is laid from the inside. It will become a base for further finishing.
- Accordingly, aluminum profiles and movable brackets - do not forget about the shrinkage processes.
- Heater. The selected mineral wool is purchased immediately in mats, so that it can be conveniently laid.
- Edged board.
From tools: stapler, screwdriver, fasteners, circular saws or fret saws. It will take a stepladder, even if the installation is done from the top - a hard frame is attached from below.
How to start the insulation of the ceiling
Work begins with the evaluation of wooden floors, even if the house is built recently. The damaged foci are destroyed, and then all wood is impregnated with protective compounds - there will be no more such possibility.
Skeleton for a heater
From the bottom of the ceiling beams is cut an edging board to form boxes. You can not use a non-grooved slab - it's a bait for a beetle.
Ceiling vapor barrier
The board is covered with a steam membrane. It is fastened with a stapler, the joints will be lapped. Seams are necessarily pasted with an adhesive tape to exclude even probability of hit of a moisture.
Skinning of a skeleton and laying of a heater
Then the brackets are installed and fixed on them metal carcass for drywall. Through it, lay the necessary communications - electrical wires, lighting cartridges - and then sew up the space for the GCR. Work from the inside is over.
In the boxes of beams and edging boards, padding mats are inserted. It is important not to allow too tight an entry or a bump.
Waterproofing
Strengthen the waterproofing. Also it is necessary to glue the joints and joints with construction tape.
Install the floors. Usually it is a piled board. If the attic space will be used for residential purposes, a multilayer plywood is laid on the rough floor and decorated with a finishing coating - linoleum, laminate. Even uncaptured boards are beautiful in themselves.
That's actually the whole process. Easy, safe and, most importantly, effective method reduce the amount of heat loss and create a comfortable living for yourself and your household. Benefit from the insulation of the ceiling can be counted in advance - it will pleasantly surprise owners of a private house.
Related Materials
In a private house it is necessary to warm well in order to avoid heat loss. It is the ceiling that is the most responsible site for keeping heat in the house. Most often for ceiling insulation is used. About how to insulate up in a private house with the help of mineral wool, and we'll tell in this article.
Long ago, people tried in a private house, somehow to reduce heat loss through the roof, they covered the attic floor with sawdust, straw, dry grass, slag, then even with expanded clay, but this coating has drawbacks - natural natural material has the property of rot, any evil spirits, which then can reach the rooms. Slag has an increased radiation background. The best option insulation of the ceiling in a private house is expanded clay, but the current materials for the insulation of the ceilings come on the heels of clay. Let's consider the options for warming the attic floors with modern materials to keep the heat in the house.
Preparatory work
Before you begin to insulate the ceiling in a private house, you must prepare all the materials and tools that will be needed during the work. You will need a heater.
Mineral wool can be rolled or plate-shaped. Also need to be a polystyrene foam 5 cm thick, glassine ( waterproofing material), assembly foam, nails, slats and edging boards. As tools you will need: a hammer, a knife and a hacksaw for wood, as well as an electric jig saw.
- To do this, roll the pergamina rolled on the ground and cut it with a sharp knife into strips.
- The strips will need to be laid between the beams of the ceiling with an allowance on each side of five centimeters.
- Pergamum after laying should be fixed with racks to the ends of the ceiling beams.
The next step in the process of insulation of the ceiling will be laying the foam.
- The foam should be cut so that the sheets are inserted into the space between the beams very tightly.
- Between the sheets of foam it is possible to leave a gap no more than one centimeter. Subsequently, these gaps are filled with mounting foam.
- After the polystyrene has been laid, we cover another layer of waterproofing (pergamine).
Then we proceed to lay mineral wool.
- The layer of mineral wool must necessarily reach the upper surface of the ceiling beams.
- It may be necessary to lay several layers of mineral wool.
- Well, then make flooring from the boards.
- Planks are laid across the ceiling beams.
Insulated inside and outside
To warm a private house we can in one of two ways - from inside the room or outside. Two of these methods are effective and bring the desired result (heat in the house and saving energy), but you can distinguish the types of materials and technology of insulation of ceilings in the house.
We know two groups of building materials: vapor permeable and vapor tight (depends on whether the material absorbs moisture or not). Therefore, inside the premises it is necessary to use a vapor-permeable building material, and outside the room - a vapor-proof one.
We warm the inside of the room
To keep the volatilized heat from a private house, we can fix a mineral insulation from inside the premises, which is sold in the form of a roll and plates, its other name is modern glass wool. Suspended ceiling - an ideal way to hide the mineral insulation in the room.
- First, a metal frame with plasterboard is recruited for the ceiling, then we glue with a glue for the tile a mineral insulation in the space between the profiles (since this glue can almost immediately hold the heater on the ceiling).
- After that, the frame is covered with plasterboard.
- The technology is very simple, but this heater needs to be set so that it does not compress, because the effect mineral insulation - in the multi-globe air layer, which is inside the cotton wool.
Another nuance of this warmth is the spotlights, which burn very quickly through their heating, since the mineral wool does not allow the bulbs to cool.
And to eliminate this problem it is possible, if around a spotlight to remove a heater or leave a little space to move the air, so that the lights could cool down. And you can just abandon point lights, replacing them with simple chandeliers or sconces lamps.
We warm the outside of the room
It is possible to heat the outside only in the attic, this is a great way to keep the heat in the house, if you had no plans to change anything inside the premises, namely, to make a hanging surface.
And to make such warming is even easier than inside the rooms.
- First we clear the floor of the attic from any garbage, we need a clean concrete slab.
- We measure the floor surface of the attic and buy the required quantity of 50-mm thick high-density foam.
- Cover the attic floor and you can polystyrene, but it's more expensive twice.
- We spread the floor with foam and connect it with a mounting foam.
If you are using an attic for a storage space, you need to fill the foam with a screed as well, so as not to break the foam. In the screed you need to put metal mesh, and the layer of the solution must be at least 50 mm. Here such here system of warming of a ceiling.
That's all, our house will now be insulated to the maximum and, besides, we will save on energy or gas.
Of course, it's easier and cheaper to insulate from the outside, but the situation is different, for example, an attic of a high-rise building is not our property and just the housing office can not allow it. But if you have your own house - you decide how to make the insulation of the ceiling.
Insulation of the ceiling in a private house is a guarantee of warm rooms in winter and a cool climate in the summer. You need to take care of this at the stage of erection of the house. But if the house got ready, it is still possible to insulate the ceiling with minimal effort.
School physics knowledge can still come in handy in life. So, due to convection, when the cold air falls down and the hot air is directed upwards, all the heat accumulated in the room will penetrate through the insulated ceiling into the unheated attic. Because of this, it is necessary to increase the capacity of the boiler and, as a result, to incur additional expenses for heating.
For the same reason, the insulation of the ceiling requires a more serious approach than the insulation of the walls - due to air currents, the heat loss of the wooden ceiling can reach 3 W / m2 / K. For brick or concrete floors, the figure is even higher. At the same time, the ceilings between living quarters do not need to be insulated if the temperature in them is the same. It is enough to take care of the soundproofing and save money on the insulation of the attic and the roof.
In summer it is also better to have a warmed ceiling - the sun-roofed roof transfers heat to the room, negating the work of air conditioners. Having spent once on insulation, you can enjoy a comfortable microclimate in your home for many years.
What should I look for when choosing a heater?
First of all, you need to determine the place of installation of insulation - inside or outside the living rooms. The first option is highly undesirable for several reasons:
- decreases the height of ceilings;
- it is impossible to use bulk insulation;
- the cooling point is displaced closer to the inner side of the floors;
- inevitable repairs due to the dismantling of the old ceiling.
Warming of the attic is deprived of all these negative features. But if the attic is not provided, or the project provides for attic floor, you need to insulate the roof immediately.
Selection of materials for self-insulation by hands
Styrofoam or EPAS, as well as minvate and its analogues are suitable for insulation from the inside and outside. These materials are laid between the beams or in a specially constructed frame and covered with plasterboard, OSB boards or lining.
But if the house has a sauna, then the ceiling above it is better not to be insulated with expanded polystyrene - because of high temperatures it can begin to make harmful substances for humans.
For internal insulation Also, aerated concrete slabs are excellent - due to their low weight and ease of installation. Their thickness up to 10 cm does not "eat" a lot of height, and additional casing will not be required. On the plates with a notched trowel, the adhesive is applied to the polystyrene plates and pressed against the ceiling.
The heat insulation material is puttied and painted.
Quite cost-effective bulk insulation - chips, ecowool or expanded clay. True, having high hygroscopicity, they require good waterproofing. It is poured such a heater between the beams from the attic side with a layer of about 15 cm, and for convenience of movement in the attic are covered with OSB slabs.
True, having high hygroscopicity, they require good waterproofing.
What kind of insulation does not gnaw the mouse?
Mice gnaw any insulation. But not as food, but for the expansion of their moves. One can hear statements that the mice eat polystyrene. This is not entirely true - they gnaw it and build nests in it. But the same fate will befall the mineral wool, although a bit later.
Because of flowability, it can save a little ecowool - but rodents will trite it until they can settle and move normally in the insulation. The most resistant to keramzit rodents are strong "pebbles", large enough that mice and even rats can not carry them away, and at the same time small enough to fill their passages.
But even here there is a catch - the mice will arrange "lezhki" there. Therefore, the only way to protect the heater - do not allow rodents in it in principle. All the rest is just a temporary and very unreliable solution.
How to insulate the ceiling of the attic floor?
Warming yourself with the attic is quite easy. First, space is freed and completely removed flooring (if it was). Step by step work is done:
To insulate the concrete floor, the technology is exactly the same - just lay the lags on top of the concrete. You can also use the sprayed materials, but this requires a special technique and certain skills.
How to insulate the ceiling from the inside?
Through suspended ceiling you can insulate the room from the inside. For this:
Due to the lack of ventilation, spotlights in the insulated ceiling are undesirable to use - they heat up and quickly fail. And when in contact with foam plastic insulation can begin to melt.
In private homes it is very important to maximize the heat inside each room. To do this, use different methods of thermal insulation. In addition to working with walls, it is not necessary in this situation to forget about the insulation of the ceiling from the side of the cold attic. In the house, it serves as a boundary between the external cold and comfortable internal heat.
Fundamental rules
For buildings in which a cold roof is installed, it is important to calculate in advance the use of an optimal heat insulator. It will perform several functions simultaneously:
- in winter heat-insulating characteristics are used, which do not allow the outgoing air to escape;
- in summer the roof is warmed up, and the heater does not transfer heat to the rooms;
- at any time of year, laying insulation on the ceiling will increase the sound and noise insulation of the premises.
Selection of material
Before correctly insulating the ceiling under a cold roof, it is necessary to choose the material with the necessary characteristics:
- resistance to moisture;
- maximum fire safety;
- minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity;
- ecological cleanliness;
- duration of operation.
Warming of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof in most cases is carried out using the following substances:
- free-flowing expanded clay (work with him from the loft side);
- plates of mineral or basalt cotton wool (it is applied both from the side of the room and from the attic side);
- wood sawdust (they are used with clay mortar);
- ecowool (produced on the basis of cellulose);
- plates of foam or its varieties (they are distinguished by the availability and ease of installation);
- polyurethane foam (expensive but effective material for which special expensive equipment is needed).
You need to know that before you properly lay the heater on the ceiling, you need to calculate the increase in load. Overlaps must withstand additional weight. Most modern materials meet this standard.
Installation work
Quality insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof can be carried out with any of the listed materials. However, the work and the result will have their own characteristics:
- materials produced in plates are laid on the surface and fixed to it by the same algorithm;
- the introduction of gruel from polyurethane foam or ecowool is carried out by special equipment, in this process filling of all kinds of cracks and smoothing of irregularities occurs;
- free-flowing expanded clay or vermiculite is spread evenly over the surface.
It is allowed to lay the insulation not only in one, but also in two or more layers. For the false ceiling, the planking is fixed to the beams of the ceiling. For rolling levels, thermal insulation is placed on the cranium.
In the space located between the beams it is necessary to put a vapor barrier. There are several common ways to use it:
- for false ceilings it is spread out inside the room, and it is fixed there with construction staples;
- in rolling ceilings, the material spreads over the boards and the cranial beam.
Warming of the ceiling mineral wool from the attic requires proper packing material. This will ensure the correct operation of the insulation and long life. In the process, it is necessary to take into account such rules:
- a positive effect is achieved in the absence of gaps between the plates with cotton wool and beams of the ceiling, so that such slots are not the cause of heat escape through them;
- the preparation of plates is carried out in such a way as to ensure a clear hit across the width between the beams, without generating a wave of surplus, because from under them also heat will leave;
- to place the cotton wool should be in such a way as to ensure the most tight fit to the vapor barrier under it and the beams along the perimeter
- when the ceiling is insulated from the side of the cold attic with mineral wool, then it must be separated by a layer of waterproofing, blocking the material from cool air and moisture.
It is necessary to provide a sufficient overlap during the laying of waterproofing and vapor barrier. In this case, all joints or seams of materials are glued along the entire length by adhesive tape.
Above the layer of waterproofing it is necessary to leave an air cavity. For this purpose, rails of 25-35 mm height are beaten along the beams. The finishing layer of the thermal insulation of the ceiling of the house from the attic side is a board or plywood. They are packed over racks.
According to a similar scheme, works with varieties of expanded polystyrene are carried out. However, in this case there are some nuances.
Before you properly insulate the ceiling in the house with foam plates, you need to cut them as clearly as possible, but they will not be able to fill the space anyway due to weak flexibility. To get rid of the slits, apply a mounting foam. It is introduced into all seams to reduce heat loss and fix plates made of expanded polystyrene.
Use of foam polyurethane spraying
One of the gaining popularity is the method of insulation with ecowool or expanded polystyrene. At the initial stage, it requires a significant financial investment, but subsequently the payback is sometimes a couple of seasons due to high productivity.
During the application of polyurethane foam, there is no need to use a vapor barrier. The material itself wets high moisture-proof qualities. Due to its diluted state, it penetrates deeply into all areas where another heater can not reach. The absence of seams in the finishing layer also makes it possible to do without a waterproofing layer.
Working with ecowool
Considering the question of how to properly insulate the ceiling in the house, you need to pay attention to the ecowool. Under it it is necessary to pave a vapor barrier. This step is due to the fact that in its structure there is a large number of fibers that can slip through the cracks into the room below.
The material forms a quality seamless layer. It is often used to fill the space between already filled boards. The filling starts after the dismantling of some of them, forming a technological hatch. Through the resulting space, a dry mixture is pumped into the voids. Just conduct the insulation of the ceiling in a bath with a cold roof. It is necessary to add mass between all the beams.
VIDEO: A few more tips for properly insulating the attic
Than to warm a ceiling in the private house
Any owner wants to create comfortable living in his house. To do this, periodically monitors the possible heat losses, due to which room temperature can decrease, and the use of energy to increase. Window and door openings are the main conductors of cold air.
As a rule, they are replaced first and foremost by the owners of houses for quality products. Many rushed to warm the walls, the foundation. And about the ceiling, for some reason, they do not always remember. And in vain! According to the laws of physics, heat losses due to poor ceiling can exceed 20 percent. The barrier created above prevents heat from heating devices Do not have to heat the environment.
Ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house include both indoor work and in the attic. These works to strengthen the energy protection of the house are of equal value, therefore each owner can choose for himself a convenient option.
The difference of methods lies in the technology of installation and the materials used:
- Insulation of the ceiling from the inside is accompanied by the subsequent surface finish with plasterboard or other suspended structures. It should be noted that the height of the room after the end of installation will decrease from 10 to 25 cm. The material used must have vapor permeable properties. Such can be: mineral or basalt cotton wool, penofol.
- External insulation of the ceiling is carried out in the attic. More economical and advantageous option, as it does not require further finishing works, unless the use of the premise under the attic is provided. It is recommended to use a vapor-proof material to protect moisture from access to the overlap. Most often used: foam, foam, mineral wool, expanded clay.
Choosing a heater
A modern construction market offers a huge amount of materials for the insulation of the ceiling. In the course are even expanded clay, sawdust, hay, clay and slag, which have a number of significant disadvantages among the advantages. The choice should meet the requirements of technology.
The basic requirements that the heater must meet:
- do not release toxic substances;
- have resistance to moisture;
- have a low degree of flammability.
Popular materials for energy saving at home
Mineral wool in the form of sheets or rolls is widely used in construction works. Characteristics of the heater is responsible technical requirements thermal insulation. The use in residential premises is dictated by the absence of toxic substances in the composition and excellent thermal insulation properties. Mineral wool has components of limestone, basalt, diabase and dolomite.
Rocks give the material valuable qualities:
- low degree of thermal conductivity;
- resistance to temperature changes;
- absence of flammability;
- ecological characteristics.
And yet the material has drawbacks:
- ability to absorb moisture;
- during installation it is mandatory to use a waterproofing film;
- the joints are additionally treated with a mounting foam for better sealing;
- for fastening the heater is performed a dredging from a wooden beam or profiles;
- relatively short lifespan (10-15 years).
Penofol consists of interlayers of foamed polyethylene and aluminum foil. Combines the properties of several insulation materials with a fairly wide range of applications. Represents a basis in innovative furnish of balconies and loggias.
It has low thermal conductivity, which will save energy. Protective qualities will prevent the penetration of cold air, draft and radon into the room. In the summer penofol helps to keep the house cool, create a comfortable microclimate.
The light weight of the material makes the installation convenient, and the construction of the structure does not become heavier. To work with penofol it is required a minimum amount of improvised means: a construction knife, an adhesive tape and liquid nails.
Along with the advantages, there are also disadvantages:
- flexible surface means the ceiling finish with a hanging structure with a frame;
- on some surfaces, fixing the material is problematic;
- it is recommended to use mineral wool to increase thermal protection.
Styrofoam is much more commonly known as styrofoam. Convenient in the work the material creates a strong protection of heat in the room, without harming the health of the household. With proper installation, the installation fully justifies the costs and retains its quality for a long time.
Advantages are:
- resistance to moisture;
- good heat conductivity;
- light weight, excluding reinforcement;
- simple installation.
The disadvantages are:
- slight flammability;
- the instability to ultraviolet rays and solvents;
- low resistance to mechanical damage.
Penoizol is a liquid foam foam. For the thermal insulation of the ceiling from the outside, it is necessary to use special equipment for applying the astringent substance to the surface.
Benefits of the material:
- affordable price;
- heat-insulating qualities;
- resistance to inflammation;
- easily fills in hard-to-reach places;
- safe operation.
Disadvantages:
- absence of special equipment excludes self-assembly;
- weak resistance to mechanical influences;
- the first 2-3 weeks after installation evaporates a small amount of toxic substance;
- ability to feed moisture.
Self-heating
If you stick to the technological process and do right choice material, installation is quite possible on your own.
Insulation of the ceiling indoors with the use of mineral wool
To perform the work you will need material:
- mineral wool;
- metal profiles or wooden bars 150x30 mm;
- hardware;
- vapor barrier film;
- staples;
- mounting foam;
- dowels with a wide bonnet;
- drywall.
Set of tools:
- perforator;
- roulette;
- a hammer;
- screwdriver;
- scissors;
- building knife.
Stages of installation
- On the ceiling, make a crate of their wooden bars or metal profile in 50 cm increments.
- Heat sink to cut the size of the cells of the dredging with an addition of 2 cm on the sides.
- Lay the mineral wool in the cells, not ramming it.
- The heat insulation joints should be treated with a mounting foam for sealing. Foam will also serve as resistance to shrinkage insulation.
- Cover the surface with a vapor barrier film. The joints of the material must overlap by 10 cm. Using the staples, fix the film to the lath.
- With the use of gipsokartonnyh sheets perform the finish of the ceiling.
Warming of the ceiling in the attic with the use of foam plastic
For the installation you need materials:
- polystyrene sheets with a thickness of 40 mm;
- mounting foam;
- sheets of OSB 15-18 mm;
- hardware.
Instruments:
- drill;
- hacksaw;
- a hammer;
- metalwork knife;
- screwdriver.
Stages of installation
- Clear attic from garbage. If there are damaged areas or holes, seal them with a cement or gypsum mixture.
- Put the foam on the surface, densely docking with each other.
- Mounting foam to process the joints.
- Cover the top with sheets of OSB (15-18 mm) or with boards.
If you plan to use the attic as an attic, the insulated surface must be poured cement screed, a thickness of not less than 5 cm. It is mandatory to use reinforcing mesh.
Advice of professionals
- Warming in the attic with the use of sheets of foam plastic must necessarily be supplemented with a finish in the form of a screed or wooden boards. Unprotected polystyrene is susceptible to mechanical damage, which will affect its functionality.
- Thermal insulation from the outside is easier and more economical.
- It is forbidden to compact mineral wool. Losing the structure, it loses valuable properties.
- Built-in luminaires in the insulated ceiling must be mounted with a fence from the material with plasterboard inserts at a distance of 2-3 cm.
- To increase the thermal protection, it is possible to lay the attic in a complex: foam and mineral wool. The layer of heaters should resemble brickwork.
- For vapor barrier use labeled film. Do not use conventional polyethylene.
- When using penofol for insulation in the attic, lay the foil downward.