Finnish technology for the construction of frame residential buildings allows construction to be carried out without arranging a massive foundation. Thanks to the lightweight design, the load on the base is minimal.
The main building is a timber frame; the walls are made using lightweight panels. Domestic Decoration Materials resistant to temperature changes, since Finnish frame houses have a sauna inside, they are able to withstand exposure to dry steam.
Finnish frame construction technology
Construction technology includes several stages:
Laying the foundation and installing waterproofing. See how to waterproof a foundation ;
Installation of timber trim - the basis for load-bearing structures and external walls;
Laying jute bedding on the harness;
Assembly of floor beams - secured using metal brackets;
The subfloor is laid on the lower beams, and a temporary floor made of wide boards is installed on top of it.
After this, the wall frame is assembled and attached to the frame; the elements are fastened together with self-tapping screws and nails. Having installed metal brackets on the boards, beams are inserted into them.
The next stage is laying temporary floors and installing fronts.
When the frame is installed and secured, they begin to install the rafters; their lower segment is wrapped with a vapor barrier film, and then lined with clapboard, which serves as the ceiling.
The upper segment of the rafter system is wrapped with waterproofing materials, and a sheathing is made there, on which the roof is installed. The frame of the house is ready, it’s time to lay a waterproofing layer on the outside of the frame and cover it with clapboard. Internal walls lined with insulation and vapor barrier, and finally lay the main floor covering.
Materials for the construction of frame houses using Finnish technology
Finnish skeleton structures built from environmentally friendly materials. Exclusively mineral insulation is used, which increases the service life by 4 times, since the material does not decompose. Preference is given to the environmentally friendly material EKOVILLA, which has a number of advantages:
- cellulose base;
- breathable structure;
- high density - the material consists of small particles.
Cellulose fibers have excellent thermal insulation characteristics, they provide excellent sound insulation and significantly reduce heat loss.
The structure of cellulose wadding consists of 93% air bubbles. The insulation is applied by spraying; its flexible structure allows it to reach hard-to-reach places, filling cracks and gaps.
Reference!
Information: the insulation is made from newspapers that have previously been recycled. The material does not contain volatile compounds that can cause an allergic reaction. The product is manufactured with the addition boric acid, giving it antiseptic characteristics and protection from fire.Traditionally, Finnish one-story frame houses are built from laminated veneer lumber, used for the construction of load-bearing structures. Lumber is different high strength, excellent thermal insulation characteristics and excellent sound insulation.
Glued laminated timber does not deform during the drying process, it tolerates high humidity and is not subject to decomposition under the influence of biological organisms.
The material is environmentally friendly, does not support combustion and is not toxic to the human body.
The most in demand is Finnish laminated timber VISILLATALOT. The walls of the timber are filled with several types of sealants:
- PSUL - provides insulation from atmospheric influences without interfering with the movement of moisture vapor, which allows the wood to breathe, while condensation does not accumulate in the bowls, and this eliminates the appearance of mold;
- PP-TERMO – has a fibrous structure that ensures air binding, which guarantees excellent thermal insulation. The seal is not capable of binding moisture; it allows gases and vapors to pass through, but is not subject to moisture;
- EKO 40 - used for insulating joints, it looks like a narrow tape glued along the tongue.
Technologies for manufacturing finished walls for frame buildings
There are 2 effective technologies for manufacturing finished walls for assembling frame houses: FINNKOPAN; FINNKOTEK. The FINNKOPAN wall has the following structure:
- external cladding – perfectly imitates natural timber;
- corner cutting (imitation);
- slabs protecting from wind – RUNKOLEIJONA;
- frame;
- insulating layer – “ECOWOOF”.
Be sure to use airtight paper, on top of which you sew interior lining. FINNKOTEK walls have the appearance of profiled timber from the outside, there are imitation releases at the corners, the frame is made using battens, other layers correspond to FINNKOPAN technology.
Such Finnish frames panel houses have excellent performance characteristics. FINNKOPAN technologies have been developed especially for the northern regions of Russia; FINNKOTEK+.
The structures are distinguished by excellent thermal insulation characteristics, since they are equipped with an additional insulating layer of “ECOWOOL”.
Advantages of Finnish frame houses
Houses built using Finnish frame technology have a number of advantages:
- there is no shrinkage of the structure;
- possibility of individual calculation of wall thickness and type of heating system;
- freedom to choose interior decoration;
- lightweight design;
- long service life.
Important!
Important! The design of the building is not limited by technological solutions, so you can design a house of any type.One-story suburban construction using Finnish frame technology, ideal for Russian conditions. The advantage of the facilities is the minimization of heat losses, the buildings are very economical, they are easy to operate, they are built environmentally safe materials. Houses are built quickly, and immediately after completion of construction you can celebrate a housewarming party.
Cost of building a Finnish house
The cost of building a frame house using Finnish technology in the company 2mdom: from 12,700 rubles per sq.m. m. Construction period - 3 months.
The construction cost includes:
- Design. ;
- Selection of foundation;
- Frame assembly. ;
- Roof roof. ;
- Installation of windows and doors;
- Finishing works;
- Installation of water supply, electricity supply and other utilities.
VIDEO:
Technological progress in construction is moving in huge leaps. Therefore, at the moment, there are a huge variety of technologies and instructions for building houses, including several technologies for building frame houses and step-by-step instruction to them. If you have decided to build a house with your own hands, then you have probably already faced the choice of what technology to use.
If you have chosen to build frame houses, then you should pay attention to the instructions on Finnish and Canadian house construction technology. But before you start building a house with your own hands, using the same Canadian or Finnish technology, you need to familiarize yourself with the positive and negative sides of frame houses built with your own hands. So let's start with this.
Among the advantages of frame houses built with your own hands, it is worth noting: Speed of construction - the construction of this type of house belongs to prefabricated buildings. An attentive and quick-witted person will be able to complete the construction of a small house with his own hands in just 3 months. Availability of technology - to build a frame house in stages, you do not need special tools, equipment or complex instructions.
Materials for construction - the construction of frame houses is carried out in stages, using ordinary industrial wood or other materials that are available on the market. Ubiquity - the weight of finished frame houses very rarely exceeds 20 tons. This means that you can build it with your own hands, on almost any soil. Since the weight of frame houses is very small, there is no need to significantly deepen the foundation into the ground. Thermal conductivity - heating a house does not require significant costs, and with proper insulation, the temperature in the house can be maintained for up to 7 hours.
Despite a significant number of advantages, building frame houses with your own hands has a number of disadvantages: Low-rise - a person, for the first time, will only be able to build a one-story house, with a maximum of a residential attic. The construction of 2-3 storey houses requires experience and favorable conditions. Frame houses are practically not suitable for the construction of apartment buildings.
The regulatory framework is not sufficiently developed - it is not so easy to obtain permission for, however, you can take permission for an already well-tested project, and design it as a small self-built building similar to country houses. High danger in case of fire - (this concept should not be confused with fire hazard) - if a fire does start, the materials of the house, in particular the cladding, will release a huge amount of heat and toxic gases. The operating time of frame houses is, on average, calculated for only one generation of residents. In the event of a natural disaster, the collapse of a home will be rapid and catastrophic.
Foundation
Basically, frame house built wisely, with your own hands, it will withstand almost any type of foundation, however, in most cases, we are guided by the price and ease of installation, as well as the type of soil on which the construction will be carried out. Plus, it is desirable that in this place it would be possible to build a stronger house, make extensions or superstructures, which necessitates the so-called tying of the foundation to the house.
When choosing a foundation type, you should be guided by the following factors:
- If you are planning to build a house on soft soil, a shallow slab foundation is best. For your future reconstruction or addition, an insulated Swedish stove will be most suitable. This type of foundation was developed specifically for the construction of frame houses, although it can also cope with one-story brick houses. For small, light country house, a metal foundation foundation on screw piles is quite suitable.
- If the soil at your construction site can easily bear the load, but is quite heaving, then it is worth using pile-strip foundation with shallow reinforced concrete grillages.
- In the case of average heaving soil- best to use columnar foundation with normal depth, brick plinth and plinth lintels.
- In areas with slightly heaving soil, you can use a shallow shallow foundation or a columnar one, as in the case of moderately heaving soil.
Walls
Step-by-step instructions for installing the walls of a frame house consist of several stages. The corners are installed first vertical racks. As racks, you should use the same boards that were used in the bottom knitting. Next, a beam is installed on pre-prepared dowels; using plumb lines, it must be aligned along the outer edges and vertical.
All vertical posts are installed in the same way, with a recommended step of 60 cm. After completing the bottom trim, it’s time for the top one. Installation of the upper and lower trim should be done using the same technology and from the same material. When installing beams at a vertical post, you should use 2 nails at each end, and you should carefully monitor all diagonals so that possible frame distortions can be corrected in time.
After completing the process of the upper and lower strapping, you should check everything again and secure the racks using special jibs and corners.
Roof
Step-by-step instructions for installing a roof, consisting of several stages. First, the assembly of the rafters on the ground begins. For ease of assembly, you can use shaped brackets. Installation of rafters begins from one of the edges of the house, and subsequent ones are fastened with boards. When installing the rafters, make sure that the cuts are directly above the edges of the top trim.
The next stage of roof equipment is the laying of roofing material or other synthetic waterproofing material, on top of which it is already fixed roofing material. Completion roofing works should be completed with the installation of a ridge; it is advisable to place a windbreak and elements of a drainage system under it.
Exterior decoration
Feature exterior finishing frame houses, is that the exterior decoration also contributes to the formation of the spatial rigidity of the entire house. In most cases, OSB panels are used as external cladding, which are attached directly to the vertical posts using self-tapping screws. In this case, it is undesirable to use nails, since this may lead to the collapse of the material. OSB boards should completely cover the beam of your bottom binding.
If the slab falls on the future window opening, then you should not rush and cut a hole right away; it is better to do this after installation to avoid possible inconsistencies. After completing the installation of OSB boards, it is necessary to fix windproof membrane, after which, secure the lathing for the facing material; a lath approximately 5mm thick will do the last task perfectly. The sheathing itself can be used to fasten siding, lining or other facing materials.
Interior decoration
The interior decoration of frame houses, if done wisely, is simplified by the fact that the surface to be treated is, as a rule, perfectly flat. That is, all that remains is to seal the joints using a painting mesh. In total, inside Finishing work in frame houses, directly depend on the wishes of the owner, and therefore has many options. The easiest way is to paint the walls; in this case, all that remains is to decide on a color and get to work.
A fairly common option is wallpaper. Fortunately, their choice on the modern market is huge, so there shouldn’t be any problems with them. Another very common option is the use of drywall, which is characterized by speed and ease of installation, price and a variety of design solutions. It is considered more complex and luxurious with the help of decorative stone. The appearance of premises decorated using this method delights even the most fastidious customers.
IN modern world, there are a huge number of technologies for the phased construction of frame houses with your own hands, but the most common are Finnish and Canadian technologies.
Finnish technology for constructing frame houses
When using Finnish technology, it uses classic wood technology. It uses wooden beams with various sections, with the help of which the frame of walls, roofs and ceilings is formed. After all this, a house built using Finnish technology is simply covered on the outside using plywood or OSB boards. In general, the construction process is no different from the process described above.
Canadian technology for constructing frame houses
Fast playback a method of construction, which is also known as the Canadian technology of building frame houses, or simply construction using SIP panels, in fact, frame houses using Canadian technology have a mediocre relationship to the construction of frame houses. It is more similar to frame-panel technology.
This is due to the fact that to build the frame of your future home, not individual posts and beams are used, but already fully prepared panels, which are something similar to a pie, consisting of several OSB panels, between which there is insulation. These same SIP panels cannot be made independently at home; they are manufactured only at the factory.
Advertisements are full of big names - houses using Finnish, Canadian, American, German and other technologies. How to make sense of this diversity and separate the wheat from the chaff?
Since the site is called “Finnish House,” then let’s start understanding the Finnish (Scandinavian) technology for constructing frame houses.
Roofing and ceilings
Considering that factory-made house kits are mainly used in Scandinavia, the most common rafter system from factory-produced gear plate trusses (GRP). This solution is very beneficial for commercial construction. Precisely calculated loads, factory quality of the product and, most importantly, simple and quick installation roofs.
Large attic trusses can be composite for ease of transportation
Farms come in a wide variety of bizarre shapes. Moreover, attic and semi-attic floors are also most often realized through trusses. In this case, the truss is actually a single whole consisting of a truss structure, attic walls and an interfloor ceiling.
Installed trusses. Where there are 1.5 floors, attic trusses are used.
Such huge trusses are assembled using a crane and can be composited if the truss dimensions exceed the standard “transport” dimensions due to dimensional restrictions.
Small farms can be assembled without the use of equipment.
The undeniable advantage of roof trusses is that, as a rule, they do not require internal load-bearing walls. Consequently, planning possibilities are expanded.
Often for implementation complex roofs materials such as laminated veneer lumber or LVL timber are used. Usually when the task is to make some kind of long-span unsupported structure designed for a large load
The roofing “pie” absolutely always contains waterproofing, counter sheathing and sheathing. That is, regardless of whether the house is one-story with a cold attic or attic floor, the roof is always made with a ventilation gap.
What’s interesting is that to create a ventilation gap, we use not a thick 50x50 block like ours, but a 25-30mm thick strip
Regarding roofing coverings. Unlike America, where in 90% of cases it is done soft tiles, in Scandinavia a wide variety of types are used roofing- metal tiles, seam roofing, tiles of all kinds (natural, composite, etc.), soft tiles...
The only thing I have never seen on Scandinavian houses is ondulin and similar materials.
Interfloor ceilings are also performed in different ways, depending on the task. Wooden laminated I-beams, laminated and LVL timber, trusses or a simple board can be used
Frame
Unlike America, in Scandinavia there are no uniform rules (building code) governing how the frame itself should be implemented. Therefore, for a particular company, the frame can be very specific. But the main elements are performed in the same way as in American frame construction. The basis of the frame, of course, is the same as in any other civilized country - dry planed board. Wooden beams are used extremely rarely, only to solve some highly specific specific problems. And then, most likely, it will not be just timber, but the same laminated timber or LVL.
One of the interesting features of the Finnish frame is the so-called “Finnish crossbar”. A board (and most often LVL timber) embedded “on edge” into the racks under the top trim. This solution allows you to do without double top trim and window “headers”, which are mandatory for use in American frame house construction.
Another feature from the Americans. Double and especially triple racks are not always used in the area of window openings. This is probably due to the fact that in the American frame these boards are mainly used to support the same “header”, which in the Scandinavian version is replaced by crossbars embedded in the racks.
Companies that make large panels such as omatalo (finndomo), yukkatalo use something like I-beams for racks to combat “cold bridges.” Or combined composite racks, with a “thermal break” made of material with low thermal conductivity. It is already difficult to repeat such options in artisanal conditions. This is a solution for industrial production.
External slab cladding, wind protection and frame stiffening elements.
Another striking difference from the Americans.
In the American frame, in 99% of cases, continuous cladding with OSB3 boards is used on the outside + a wind-hydroprotective membrane on top. OSB plays a structural role - giving the frame spatial rigidity. And the membrane protects the OSB from excess moisture in case of any leaks along the facade.
In Scandinavian frames, this is an extremely rare, almost never found option. Basically, three types of implementation of sheathing, wind protection and stiffening elements can be distinguished.
Recently, options have begun to appear using OSB in the wall, but unlike the American version, in the Scandinavian version OSB is usually installed on the inside of the room.
In addition, sometimes (but not always) in the first two options a windproof film is also placed on top.
I am impressed by this approach to wall construction, because the Scandinavians never use material with relatively low vapor transmission (for example, OSB) on the outside - due to which, from the point of view of vapor permeability, the design turns out to be more correct and “foolproof”.
On the Russian “Internet” you can often come across the opinion that if you use fairly soft materials such as gypsum plasterboard or MDVP for cladding, then you must definitely use jibs. Because compared to American OSB, these materials are flimsy. I don't agree with this opinion. Firstly, you need to understand in which direction these materials work in the wall. And in this direction, soft materials are very durable. In addition, what I call the “bundle of arrows principle” operates here. Perhaps slab cladding alone with these materials will not be enough, but in combination with internal and external facade cladding - it is quite enough. That is, each “layer of the wall cake” makes a small contribution to the structural rigidity and the result is quite sufficient.
Facade and interior decoration
Wood is used in 90% of façade finishing. It can be “imitation timber” in our understanding, “American”, just a board and a quarter, vertical cladding with a simple planed board in 2 layers with a “spread”, planken, etc.. The cladding can be either vertical or horizontal .
The remaining 10% are plaster and other types of facades. Vinyl siding, so popular in America, has not taken root in Scandinavia. All kinds of composite panels, facing brick, also used very rarely
Any wooden facade Always done with a ventilation gap. Moreover, its implementation is not always trivial.
Another interesting feature is that the Scandinavians do not hesitate to hit the sheathing directly into the plane of the board, and not hidden, as we like to do. There are 2 points here.
- Firstly, in most cases the facade is painted with covering (opaque) paint, which will cover these fasteners. Glazing (translucent) materials, so popular in our country, are used much less frequently.
- Secondly, such fasteners are much stronger and a facade board nailed in this way makes a good contribution to the overall structural rigidity of the entire house.
An interesting point about painting facades. Wood is always painted with preliminary priming with a special primer. That is, 1 layer of primer and 2-3 layers of high-quality covering paint.
In addition, our compatriots are often surprised that the boards on Finnish facades are “shaggy”, as if they had not been planed. In fact, after planing the facade board, it deliberately “shags”, that is, wood pile rises. This is done so that the board absorbs more paint - and as a result, a thicker layer of protective coating is formed
This is why Finnish houses can last up to 10-15 years without requiring repainting. Padding, quality paint and a “shaggy” board is the key to the durability of the facade
The boards are attached to 2 nails directly into the plane. Then it will be painted over. The board is already primed at the factory
The interior finish may vary. Basically this is gypsum board with subsequent painting or gluing of wallpaper or wood. And often there is a combination of both.
Considering that the foundation is basically both the floor of the first floor and the heating system (warm water floors), the entire first floor is often laid out with tiles or porcelain stoneware.
The ceiling is usually either wood or special ceiling panels or gypsum board.
“Pie” walls and insulation
This is a big and complex topic.
There are different types of “pies”. Each company strives to come up with something of its own, super energy efficient. By the way, energy efficiency is a Scandinavian fad. Walls with an effective insulation layer of 250 mm, an attic or roof from 300 to 500 (!!) mm are not an exception, but the norm.
The main insulation is mineral wool insulation. Paroc is very popular (support for domestic manufacturers), and various glass wools such as Ursa or Isover are also popular only from local, smaller manufacturers. Cellulose ecowool is a niche product. Most likely, this is due to the peculiarities of its use, since ecowool insulation is difficult to “build in” into the factory cycle.
A common option is when vertical surfaces are insulated with mineral wool, and the ceilings and attic are insulated with ecowool, which the owner himself buys in the store and rents a blow-blown installation there.
There is always a vapor barrier! Moreover, this is basically a simple 200 micron polyethylene film. Some “branded” vapor barriers are rarely used.
A typical Finnish wall "pie" looks something like this (from outside to inside)
- Facade board
- Ventilation gap
- Facade gypsum plasterboard or MDV or simply windproof film
- Main frame with insulation
- vapor barrier
- additional layer of insulation. For example, horizontal lathing + insulation.
- GKL or other material for interior decoration
Compare with typical American
- Siding
- OSB + wind protection
- frame with insulation
- vapor barrier
Apart from the differences in slab materials on the outside of the wall, the main difference is the presence of a ventilation gap on the outside and an additional gap with insulation on the inside.
With the first, everything is clear, wood, a material more critical to moisture than vinyl board and a ventilation gap for it, is more of a necessity than a whim. Unless, of course, a long-lasting, reliable system is considered. By the way, wood siding in America it is also installed with a ventilation gap.
An interesting difference is in point 6 of the Scandinavian “pie”.
A lathing is made on top of the vapor barrier (usually horizontal) in which communications (water, electrical) are carried out and this gap is insulated
We receive several bonuses at once
- The energy efficiency of the structure increases due to an additional, cross-layer insulation
- It is very convenient to carry out communications in the gap, without drilling into the posts
- Potential damage to the vapor barrier circuit is minimized since it does not need to be pierced to allow pipes and wires to exit.
By the way, such a lathing gap, albeit without insulation, is usually present on ceilings. It is very convenient to carry electrical wiring and other communications in it.
Jetta Talo's "Super Effective Pie"
Quite a typical “pie” with ecowool insulation and imitation of “overcuts” wooden house outside. The sheathing inside is vertical - in order to immediately place the imitation timber horizontally.
Windows made of metal-plastic profiles, popular in Germany and here, have not taken root in Scandinavia.
Basically, the following window design is used here
The window is double glazed, the internal frame is wooden, with a single glazed unit. External, can be either wooden or metal, with one glass (in more energy-efficient options, also a wooden frame and double-glazed windows). The design of the windows itself is such that both sashes open inward at the same time, for which a special connector with a sliding mechanism is responsible.
This is probably the most “hard to replicate” part of a Scandinavian home. Original windows in Russia are, to put it mildly, obscenely expensive. There are many options for “analogs”, but again, either the price is significantly higher than the usual metal-plastic or the quality is lame, and on both legs.
Heating, ventilation and other communications
Heating is usually water-based, through a system of underfloor heating installed at the foundation stage. Radiators can only be installed on second floors.
The coolant can be heated by an electric boiler or any other boiler for water heating. Recently, it has also become very popular to use heat pumps of all types. Moreover, their implementation is actively popularized at the state level.
In small houses and on the second floors (instead of radiators), ordinary electric convectors are also very popular.
Everything is clear with water and sewerage - there are no special differences here.
The electrical wiring is hidden, running in the gaps on the inside outer wall or above the ceiling. The American method of drilling racks and laying wiring in them is usually done only in partitions.
As in America, most often no corrugations or other protective “covers” are used for wiring. Although this depends on the manufacturer. As far as I understand, the emphasis is on a competent engineering calculation of the home’s electrical network, with all the necessary automation, high-quality wire, etc. The size of the electrical panel, even in a small Finnish house, can amaze the unprepared mind of the Russian average person, accustomed to the “three plugs” next to the electricity meter.
What is noteworthy is that, despite such a “careless” approach from the point of view of the Russian PUE, the statistics of fires due to electrical wiring failure or electric shock are several times lower. So... it's not about the corrugation.
For example, in the maximum version, this is a full-fledged supply and exhaust ventilation system with heat recovery.
Wiring of a complete ventilation system
But in simpler houses (especially in Norway and Sweden) there are more a budget option. Supply valves directly in the walls of the house and centralized mechanical exhaust from kitchen areas, bathrooms and saunas.
The simplest ventilation option. Inflow through the “windows” and exhaust by a fan or exhaust unit from the control room and kitchen area
This option is less energy efficient, but much cheaper.
Is it possible to make a frame house using Finnish technology here?
Of course you can! After all, even a panel house kit differs from pre-cut only in that the panel is assembled not at a construction site, but in a warm workshop of a factory. And pre-cut differs from regular construction right on site only in that the frame parts are pre-cut. But you can cut them according to the design at the construction site!
Of course, not all elements can be repeated - for example, tricky Omatal racks with a thermal break can be made in makeshift conditions, but this will be a significant waste of time and money.
But making a simple frame with cross-insulation from the inside, for example, as Kastelli does, will not pose any problem.
And you can very well become the owner of such a house, for quite reasonable money - 1.5-2 times cheaper than what an original Finnish house kit with delivery and assembly from abroad will cost you.
What kind of house you build depends only on you!
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About
Hello. My name is Alexey, you may have met me online under the nicknames Porcupine or Gribnick. "Finnish House" began with a personal blog, and now it is a team of like-minded people who help good people realize their dream - to build good house for yourself and your family.Vadim Chernyak
Very interesting about filling the electrical panel. I tried to find it on the Internet, but didn’t find anything worthy. By chance, you don’t have a photo near an open electrical panel in order to understand exactly what components the Scandinavians install. Thank you.
Alexei
Unfortunately, no, but according to reviews, no “America” is open there. The same automatic machines, RCDs, differential automatic machines and other garbage.
Is that the amount of all this stuff is noticeably different from what we are used to seeing in apartment panels.
I’ll tell you a secret, for example, in my generally small house, the 72-module shield turned out to be “too cramped.” 🙂
But to a certain extent this is due to specific wishes and the division into only 3 phases
PS Confirmation of my words :)
http://puutarha.net/indexfr.aspx?s=/suorakanava/tvtulostus.asp?id=1411
The right side of the shield is filled with expensive toys from the smart home series - dimmers, switches, etc.
Danil
The glass area amazes me. Norway, Finland. Do the costs of lighting really cover the costs of compensating for heat loss through windows (including along the window contour). I also noticed that the bedroom is just a bedroom, with a minimum area for installing a bed and a small window.
Alexei
Firstly, do not forget that all these countries have both southern and northern regions. In the south, closer to the Baltic (the Gulf Stream in Norway), it is not so damn cold.
Secondly, of course, if you install cheap “single-chamber” double-glazed windows, of course it won’t be hot. But windows are different. Scandinavian windows are a completely separate topic.
To be honest, fears about huge windows and heat loss are greatly exaggerated. I have been in houses with large glazing and know the owners. I won’t say that they complained en masse about costs.
In general, large glazing is certainly not a cheap solution in every sense. But they are afraid of it like fire and because of this, sculpting embrasures like in the huts of the 17th century is also not a solution
About the bedrooms. Well, that's right. The purpose of a bedroom is to sleep in it. The rest of the time is usually spent either in the kitchen or in the living room. We, exhausted by the “housing issue” and simply do not have an understanding of the “culture of living in a house”, are forced to huddle in cramped one-room apartments, two-room apartments, and three-room apartments. Where, of course, you can’t turn around.
In general - like in “Heart of a Dog”
—
“Eat in the bedroom,” he spoke in a strangled voice, “read in the examination room, get dressed in the waiting room, operate in the servants’ room, and examine in the dining room?” It is very possible that Isadora Duncan does just that. Maybe she's having lunch in her office and cutting up rabbits in the bathroom. Maybe... But I'm not Isadora Duncan!! - he suddenly barked, and his purple turned yellow. - I will have lunch in the dining room and operate in the operating room! Pass this on to the general meeting, and
I humbly ask you to return to your business, and give me the opportunity to eat food where all normal people eat it, that is, in the dining room, and not in the hallway or in the nursery.
Natalia
Good afternoon Please tell me, is it easy to make roof trusses yourself or are they ordered from a factory (I’m in Moscow)? And again, are there any restrictions on the size (width) of the frame for such trusses?
I’m looking for a project, I want a one-story one with approximately 140 square meters, but I can’t figure out how it will work and whether it won’t be too expensive or difficult than making a 2-story one..?
Alexei
In general, a roof truss is just a structure. The ideal option is, of course, to order from the factory. Look for those who make trusses on toothed plates using MiTek technology - in fact, that’s what they are. There are no size restrictions. On the contrary, for large-sized farms this is what you need.
As for doing it yourself, in principle, of course, you can, but the more complex the design of the farm, the more difficult it is to do it yourself and the less sense it makes to do it.
In addition, for a good truss it is necessary to calculate the loads. Those who produce farms do this using special software.
I have partners in Novgorod. A certified factory using MiTek technology - the guys are smart and not greedy, but I'm afraid shipping a set of trusses to Moscow will be expensive. But I am sure that there is more than one farm manufacturer in Moscow.
Ravil
Good afternoon.
Of course, if possible, Alexey, please share the “secret” of the technology for installing support-column foundations from the same Norgs.
What do we, Russians, miss important when constructing such structures?
Thank you.
Alexei
We are missing the ground. Norgs have a lot of rocky soils with low groundwater levels. That is, not heaving.
There is nothing wrong with the musculoskeletal fundus, with one BUT.
It can only be reliable on non-heaving soil.
Ravil
Clear..
Thank you for your reply.
Yurriy1979.
The Finns do not use a simple film for vapor barrier, it looks like a regular 200 micron film, and costs more.
Alexei
Daniel
Alexey, tell me: does a Scandinavian-type “pie” cause high humidity and related problems in the inner layer of thermal insulation (which is inward from the vapor barrier film)? Or is this somehow cleverly solved?
Alexei
In a heated house, the dew point (the source of moisture in the wall) will never fall on this layer. True, it depends on the thickness of the wall. If you make a wall 100+50, you can get there
150+50, low probability. 200+50, probability is almost zero
Alexander
Great article! Excellent summaries and comparisons made. And then at ForumHouse, how many copies are broken because of these “pies”. My head is already spinning!
But one aspect is still interesting: I heard the opinion that OSB on the outside of “American Pie” is not only structural element, providing rigidity, but also a vapor barrier that protects the insulation in the summer heat, when it is warmer outside than in the house, where the air conditioner is also turned on. Accordingly, steam under such conditions begins to penetrate from the street into the house. But does this steam condense? And in general, at what temperature does steam condense and press against a layer with a lower vapor transmission coefficient?
Based on this statement, it follows that for middle zone In Russia, where in the summer we very often experience heat of +30...35 degrees for two to three months, it would be more correct to have an “American pie” wall, where OSB serves as a vapor barrier on the outside. In this case, is it necessary to strengthen the vapor barrier properties of OSB and seal the seams with some kind of tape?
Please express your opinion on this issue. For example, I live in Voronezh. I have nothing against the “American” pie, but I like the “Scandinavian” one better. Which “pie” for central Russia do you think is the most correct?
Alexei
I can smell the traces of logi2121 from FH :)
Hello. The question is certainly interesting. To some extent you are right. But you need to double-check what the thermotechnical calculator will show.
After all, there are 12 months in a year. Therefore, 2-3 months will not be decisive. Moreover, a lot depends on humidity and temperature delta. Even if it’s +35 outside, but inside the house the air conditioner is turned on at +22. Delta is only 13 degrees.
But in winter, it’s +24 in the house, and let it be -20 outside. Delta is 44 degrees, that is, almost 3.5 more.
Therefore, there is a sound grain here and it is possible that for the middle zone, the American type of frame is more suitable than the Scandinavian one. But I wouldn't be paranoid about this.
Alexander
logi2121 - spot on! 🙂
How do we understand your phrase “But I wouldn’t be paranoid about this”?
Does this mean that, in your opinion, for central Russia there is no fundamental difference in the design of the “pie”? Is it possible to use both Scandinavian and American options?
Alexei
I am not ready to “expertly” answer this question. I thought about both options. Both show the possible appearance of condensation in the vapor barrier area. The difference is 25 percent.
Again, it is not entirely correct to set critical temperatures when using a calculator. As far as I know, for a more accurate result you need to focus on average seasonal temperatures. Because even if it’s +35 during the day, at night the temperature will drop to at least 28. Torment Logi and let him take the rap.
My opinion is this. Despite some imbalance in the summer, we still live in a cold climate and it is better to focus on it.
Alexander
Thank you very much for your answer! Is it possible to talk more about the “25 percent difference”?
Karkasnic
Alexey, tell me which company in Novgorod can properly build a frame house?
Paul
Alexey, I join the question.
Alexei
I won’t tell you about the company, but I have contacts, write to me by email
Konstantin
In Norway and Sweden it is not as cold as we usually think. To understand this fact, you need to look at the isotherm map of Europe. The climate there, of course, is not a gift, but if you compare the population density with the given map, it turns out that the majority of the population of Norway and Sweden lives in relatively favorable conditions. And if you look at the climate of Malmö, it becomes clear that “Swedish apple producers are concerned about the retaliatory sanctions imposed by Russia.” You can see how the attitude towards the size of glazing changes from south to north by looking at the catalogs of local real estate agencies.
Alexei
Well, in Norway, Sweden and Finland there are also northern regions where things are no longer so sweet. Here we must rather remember that technology has changed. The windows are not made of single glass in a wooden slotted frame, heat recovery systems, etc. All of this contributes.
To be honest, I don’t understand when, in pursuit of “warmth,” they begin to rivet loophole windows and then sit out in warm, dark holes :)
Denis Komarov
I have been tormented for a long time by the issue of air flow through the valves at -30 overboard - isn’t it leaking? The problem with hot batteries is clear, but what to do in the case of warm floors?
Alexei
It all depends on the air flow. And there is a trick here. There will be a normal flow - this is minus the heat and still there is a feeling of air movement. Low flow - at very low temperatures the valves may begin to freeze. And we must remember that the valves themselves do not work; an exhaust channel must be organized, preferably with a mechanical drive.
Mikhail Semenov
Good afternoon.
The project uses a cake with cross insulation, intermediate vapor barrier and gypsum board finishing. I need to finish a number of rooms with imitation timber - therefore, this option is not suitable for me. Would it be correct to do a vapor barrier after all layers of insulation, then a ventilation gap (in which the wiring will go) and imitation?
Is additional vapor barrier needed in insulated partitions with gypsum plasterboard finishing?
Thank you.
Alexei
There is no need to farm :) After the sheathing, you make a vertical sheathing with a 25x50 lath (unfold it in half 25x100) and calmly hit the simulator horizontally on it
Cassandro
Good afternoon. Do I understand correctly that after the second layer of insulation (internal) a vapor barrier is not installed? Or is it installed differently? I got confused in the pictures with “pies”. in the “Pie” from Jetta Talo, it’s blue after the second layer - who is that?
Alexei
Not installed. Jetta's pie is generally different if you look closely. There is no internal insulation like in Castelli. The Jetta has counter insulation on the outside.
Blue is a vapor barrier. And the gray one is simple cardboard, so the Finns separate the layers of thermal insulation for less air permeability, with large thicknesses of insulation.
Michael
Hello. Can you suggest any decent frame builders from the Yaroslavl region? Thank you.
Michael
About the Yaroslavl region - a question for you. Thank you.
Igor3
It is written: “There is always a vapor barrier! Moreover, this is basically a simple 200 micron polyethylene film. “Branded” vapor barriers are rarely used.” Is this ordinary film that is sold in our hardware stores? Or special for construction? It is simply surprising if the film is ordinary, which can tear in the cold at the attachment points or when exposed to rodents.
Nikolay Suvorov
Arif
Is this ordinary film that is sold in our hardware stores?
No, not like that. Special (conditionally) which will not decompose in 25 years! There are such requirements for the manufacturer of films for household use, at least in Europe.
The vapor barrier film in the Finnish frame does not freeze at all, and is not pierced by anything; communications are already carried out behind the film!
Alexei
The question is ambiguous. Firstly, there is primary polyethylene film (greenhouse) and secondary (technical)
Primary vapor barrier is used. Special or not special - that’s the question. The film that the Finns use is NOTHING different tactilely or externally from ordinary greenhouse film. UV stabilization (UV radiation is the main destroyer of polyethylene) is not so important, since there is no UV radiation in the wall.
Therefore, “such or not” is already a subject of laboratory research.
At the same time, you must admit, it would be a shame to buy ordinary polyethylene at a price 2 times more expensive just because it says Delta on it :)
Arif
That’s for sure, if you only knew what it costs to convince a client that there is not just savings, but overall great essence marketing ploy and there is no difference. Just like bottled water. After all, the Finns have clean tap water!!! So the film is used idle time.
Alexei
Alexei
PS - a specific example. DELTA-DAWI GP costs around 3800 per 100m2
I charge 200 micron film for 6500 per roll of 300 m2
that is, the price difference is about 40%
Vitaly
Alexey, good afternoon! Thank you for the article! Could you please tell me some smart specialists from Ukraine in the construction of Scandinavian frame-type houses?
Tanya Belova
Alexey, please tell me how to make a pie for 250. After all, we take the main racks at 150 (145). Then cross by 100? Or two times 50? (for example outside and inside). Which is more correct?
Alexei
Alexey, is cold water also carried out in the inner layer of thermal insulation? If so, how to deal with condensation on pipes?
S.J.
planed timber with strength class C24 (for frame construction) with dimensions 45x195 plus cross-insulation 45x45, so we scored 250 (roughly speaking).
Martin
Alexey, good afternoon! Can you tell me if there will be an article about heating, as well as about windows, and whether it makes sense to install double-glazed windows without frames?
Maxim Gavrilov
It’s one thing to cover it with plasterboard, another with clapboard/imitation. It seems to me that, after all, in the case of interior wood trim, the counter insulation must be insulated, or what? Somehow it is not logical, it turns out that moisture from the interior will flow into this layer. Can I cover the craft with paper? Alexey, What do the Scandinavians do in this case? I couldn't find any literature on this issue.
If the main frame is insulated with stone wool, will the internal counter insulation be made of linen mats? Will this somehow affect the internal microclimate? :) Mikhail, how did you do it in the end?
Wooden architecture of the Scandinavian countries is rationality and natural harmony. Russian huts can easily be called the prototype of the Finnish house. However, nowadays the technologies of wooden architecture have gone far ahead.
Finnish house construction technology has a number of advantages:
Design stagesIn pursuit of profit and in the fight against competitors, domestic designers begin to develop homes in the Scandinavian style, but, unfortunately, the end result is a low-quality wooden house, overloaded with details and far from the given architectural direction. It is advisable to contact Finnish offices directly with many years of experience, since they have been successfully cooperating with Russian-speaking customers for a long time. The manufacturer you choose must specialize in residential wooden houses, and not on garden verandas and dachas. It is desirable that the company provides a full cycle, rather than purchasing missing parts from different factories: the more diverse the set, the more difficult it is to fit and join the elements. Don't chase low prices. You are building a house in which several generations of your family will probably live. The right foundationTheoretically, a house can be built on any foundation, which is what was done before. In the process of evolution, concrete and stone options disappeared, leaving two leaders: USHP (insulated Swedish slab) and UFF (insulated Finnish foundation). If done correctly at the final stage of foundation construction, you will receive a finished first floor floor with built-in communications, a drainage system, electrical wiring and heated floors. A decent contractor often comes from Finland himself to make sure that your foundation meets the requirements of the project and only after that starts delivery for construction. Wall materialThe main thing: the timber should only be harvested in winter. If cut down at another time, it is subjected to chemical treatment and the durability of such a log is in doubt. The world's highest quality raw materials for designing a Finnish timber house – this is wood premium"A" from central Finland. The ideal option is when the lamellas are glued together from homogeneous rocks. Snow-white spruce is considered the most reliable, but capricious material to process. Its thermal conductivity is higher than other rocks. For example, 20 cm thick laminated spruce beams will provide the same thermal insulation as brickwork 2 m. Houses made of pine are called second-rate - over time it darkens, and the knots are separated from the wood mass. Larch and cedar are also used. Insulation for Finnish housesThroughout Europe, including the Finns, Rockwool basalt mineral wool is used for these purposes, which has proven itself well. Basalt is a volcanic rock that is absolutely non-flammable and even prevents the spread of fire. In addition, it is strong, durable, sound-absorbing and thermally insulating, and is not afraid of temperature changes. To insulate horizontal joints, vapor-permeable Illbruck tape is laid along the entire length of the crowns. It contracts under the weight of the top layer and, expanding, fills all the free space. According to building regulations In Finland, houses made of laminated veneer lumber with a thickness of at least 180 cm do not need insulation even in harsh weather conditions. The fact is that the quality of assembly and joining of corners is responsible for maintaining the temperature rather than the thickness of the walls. Natural heat loss goes up through the roof, so special attention needs to be paid to its design and insulation. The European climate is milder than the Russian one, but there it is customary to install insulation 400 mm thick, while in Russia for some reason it is 150-200 mm. It is preferable to have electrical heating for windows, as is done by Hatrick. Exterior and interior of Finnish housesA typical Scandinavian home is distinguished by its laconicism; its elegant simplicity is combined with impeccable execution. Made of logs, devoid of decor and unnecessary details, one and a half to two floors, it has gable roof so that the snow does not stagnate. On the ground floor there is usually a terrace in front of the front door, and above it there is a balcony with large windows. Typical colors exterior finishing facade - white, light gray, beige, all natural shades of wood. Separately, cornices and platbands are distinguished. The house, as a rule, has two entrances, each with a separate vestibule - a functional element for retaining heat. Upon entering, we find ourselves in a spacious hall that leads to the kitchen, guest room, and office. The Finnish tradition is to have a large kitchen with a dining table in the middle. On the second floor, under the roof slopes, there is a bedroom. There is often a sauna in the house. We invite you to admire the photo of the interior of a Finnish house.
Types of constructionSolid timber houseAfter cutting, the wood is sent to dry to prevent future shrinkage. Next, it is profiled and the surface is treated until the lining is smooth. The cross-section of logs can be square or rectangular, with or without a lock profile. Advantages of timber:
Flaws:
Finnish house made of laminated veneer lumberThis technology is based on turning logs from natural wood to ideal geometric dimensions. By processing on special equipment, the beams are extended using a mini-tenon and glued together up to 13 meters in length. There is also a D-shaped cut, when the inner surface seems to be made of beams, and the outer surface is made of rounded logs. The profile lock is designed in such a way that its spikes fit perfectly into the grooves, preventing moisture from getting in and making the wall unusually strong. Today, this method of building a house is recognized as optimal in Scandinavia and is recommended for the cold Russian climate. Conscientious manufacturers try to use only first-class glue, for example, the Finnish company Kilto, which does not contain harmful substances. Advantages:
Flaws:
Finnish frame houseThere are no clearly established standards for the implementation of the frame design, which means that it is individual for each company. There is only General requirements to the material - it should be a dry planed board; wooden beams are used extremely rarely. This construction principle is the most easily erected and popular all over the world for more than five hundred years. House kits are:
Construction technologyThe technology of building a frame house allows you to build it yourself. If the project has already been agreed upon, then we proceed to the foundation. Depending on the weight of the structure and the characteristics of the soil, columns or screw piles are most often used. If you have small house for an average family, a columnar foundation will be quite sufficient:
The screw principle is also very popular precisely because it has a valuable application manual labor. This allows you to strictly monitor the drilling level. It is important to remember that unscrewing the pile is strictly prohibited, as the natural compaction of the soil is disrupted.
Stages of building a Finnish houseSubfloor for a Finnish house
Walls of a Finnish house
Second floor of a Finnish house
Roof of a Finnish house
At this stage, it is too early to say that the frame house has been built. Now it needs to be thoroughly insulated inside and out, windows and doors must be installed, communications and interior finishing must be carried out. External insulation option
Small but cozy homeThe Nordic character is calm and loves refined simplicity. In their homeland, many Scandinavians have long gravitated toward one-story buildings. Small cottages are another type of Finnish houses. Here are the facts that speak in their favor:
A typical project for a one-story Finnish house includes everything you need: a small living room, one bedroom, a kitchen, a bathroom and a storage room. On average, the total area of such a cottage is up to 60 m². |
Before building a house, it is necessary to evaluate all the features of the future home, its cost and nuances construction work. Let's consider the advantages and disadvantages, materials for making the frame and parameters for home improvement using Finnish technology.
Typically, a developer chooses a project, paying attention primarily to the price, volume and complexity of the construction process, and the cost of building materials. Houses using Finnish technology are superior in this regard to other construction options for all stated requirements.
An undeniable advantage of the frame structure is the simple installation of all elements of the house. First, the frame of the future structure is constructed from wooden beams, then installation work surfaces are finished with wooden slabs. During the process, it is necessary to comply with all generally accepted construction standards and requirements.
The frame is assembled from beams with a section of 24.5x10 cm and a pitch of 40 cm between them. (These dimensions are increased in seismically hazardous areas and in areas with moving soils).
The technology of covering walls with slabs is one of the most important criteria for the quality of a future home. After all, it is this that ensures the preservation of heat in the room and the cost of heating the home. According to this parameter, houses using Finnish technology are leaders in frame construction. The features of the cladding will be discussed in more detail below.
In general, we can highlight the following advantages of houses using Finnish technology:
- The light weight of the building ensures minimal costs for arranging the foundation;
- Minimum labor costs;
- Moderate overall cost of the house - this is one of the cheapest projects;
- Fast production of all elements;
- The installation technology allows construction at any time of the year (since practically no concrete is used, construction does not stop even in winter);
- The design can withstand small earthquakes and ground movement;
- No expensive machinery or equipment is required.
Finnish technology includes poor sound insulation and fragility of sheathing slabs. Although, with the use of additional building materials, these problems can be solved. But as a result, the cost of construction will increase.
Materials needed for houses using Finnish technology
To construct the building you will need the following building materials:
- Wooden beams (bars) with a section of 245x100 mm;
- Plates for covering the frame;
- Decoration Materials;
- Building materials for roofing and foundation construction.
Finnish home improvement technology
If desired, the developer can choose regular, profiled or laminated timber. The original appearance of profiled timber allows you to do without additional external wall decoration.
Glued laminated timber is distinguished by high thermal insulation and sound insulation, as well as structural strength, which allows you to build houses using Finnish technology for living all year round. But that doesn't stop there beneficial features. The material, compared to others, is less susceptible to deformation, exposure to microorganisms, mold and dampness. An undoubted advantage is increased fire safety.
From wooden beams the frame of the building is being built - external walls, internal partitions, ceilings and flooring. Then it is sheathed with slabs on the outside and inside.
The design of the plates provides increased thermal insulation properties. The interior of the house is covered with OSB boards, consisting of several layers of chips glued together with wax and resin. The outside of the house is sheathed with fiberboard slabs, coated with a layer of wax to protect against moisture. The internal space between the plates is filled mineral wool, which provides additional thermal protection of the walls.
As for the choice of roofing and interior cosmetic finishing of rooms, these materials are selected by the developer independently, based on his aesthetic taste.
Construction of the frame of a Finnish house
The corner (vertical) beams of the future house are installed first. The builder’s task at this stage is to fix the posts as evenly as possible so that the corners of the house are on parallel lines.
Advice: if you do not have the necessary experience in construction and the necessary tool, then it is better to immediately turn to specialists for help, this way you will save time and money.
Grooves are cut at the junction of the vertical posts and cross beams. At the same time, openings are left for windows and doors where necessary. The contours of door and window openings are outlined using short sections of beams along the perimeter of the opening.
Along the diagonal walls of the house, it is necessary to make lintels that strengthen the structure, protecting the building from skewing.
After the construction of the load-bearing walls, they proceed to the construction of internal partitions. The basic rules here are as follows. Partitions running from one wall to the other of the house are made of transverse beams attached to opposite walls. Beams must be fastened to the vertical posts of load-bearing walls. If the partition does not reach the opposite wall, then a vertical post is placed inside the house to secure the free end of the cross beams.
The construction of doorways in the internal partition is carried out in the manner described above.
Foundation for a house using Finnish technology
Since the entire frame structure is quite light, the house does not need a reinforced foundation. It will be enough to lay a shallow strip foundation.
To do this, a trench 0.5 meters deep should be dug along the perimeter of the house using Finnish technology. Lay the walls of the trench with boards 5 cm thick. For additional structural strength, the opposite walls of the formwork are fastened from above with transverse planks. The bottom of the trench is covered with reinforced mesh with a cross section of 3-5 mm.
When the formwork is prepared, a concrete solution is poured into it. It must be grade 300 and above. After the foundation has hardened, the formwork is dismantled and the surface is leveled with cement mortar.
Another option for a house foundation using Finnish technology is a foundation made of bored piles. Its advantages are the cost-effectiveness of construction compared to concrete base and the ability to raise the level of the base of the house above the ground. Thus, the wood from which frame houses are made using Finnish technology will be additionally protected from dampness coming from the ground.
To construct such a foundation, it is necessary to dig wells around the perimeter of the building. The depth of the well is calculated based on the wishes for the height of the foundation - underground part must be at least a third of the total height of the pile. The bottom of the well is covered with sand, forming an air cushion under the piles, and then with small crushed stone. Reinforcement is laid along the walls of the well to the entire height of the pile (underground and above-ground parts), and after that the well is filled with concrete grade 300-400.
Next, you need to build a grillage on which the load-bearing walls of the house will rest. To do this, wooden formwork is constructed or pieces of reinforcement are laid out with support on the top of the piles. Concrete is poured into the prepared container. The technology is no different from the process of constructing a strip foundation.
Roof installation
The first stage is the installation of roof trusses. This is the frame of the future roof of the house. The beams form a triangular structure, the rigidity of which is fixed by a transverse beam.
Placed on the frame waterproofing materials, as a rule, roofing felt or other moisture-proof coatings. The coating chosen by the developer (composite or metal tiles, corrugated sheets, ondulin, etc.) is attached on top of the waterproofing.
The advantage of the Finnish technology for building frame houses is the simple and quick process of assembling a house, which you can do yourself without involving a contractor. The main condition is not to violate the proven technology and select suitable materials.
Horizontal floors of the house
Finnish houses are characterized by the use of wood as the main building material. Therefore, floors are usually made of wood. This helps keep the house warm.
It is possible to make a floor using concrete screed technology, but the thermal insulation characteristics will be significantly worse.
So, to make a wooden floor you will need logs that are laid on a brick support. Lined on top of the logs wooden boards. The optimal thickness of the board is 5 cm.
Interfloor ceilings rest on the vertical pillars of the building frame. First, horizontal beams are attached to the racks, creating the floor frame. To increase the strength of the floors, they are fixed with parallel bars. Wooden floor boards are laid on this base. The ceiling of the lower floor is being finished from below.