How to make a wooden canopy for your house. How to build a wooden canopy for a summer house with your own hands. Drawing development and materials preparation

It is impossible to imagine a private house without a canopy; there must be one at least over the porch. This structure serves two functions. First of all, it protects from precipitation and sun, and secondly, it is an element of decoration of the entire building. A lot of options have been invented for how to attach a canopy to a house, using various materials. We will talk about this, and also consider the stages of building a canopy with your own hands.

What types of canopies are there?

Sheds attached to a house can be classified according to various criteria, for example, by shape and design, by materials of manufacture, as well as by their purpose. Based on their design features, canopies can be divided into stationary and sliding. Stationary canopies are structures whose elements are welded or securely connected with bolts and screws without subsequently unscrewing them.

Sliding canopies are distinguished by the fact that their mechanism allows you to extend the roof whenever you want. This is done mechanically using a cord or automatically using a control panel. Retractable awnings have a fabric roof and are often called awnings. They are easy to attach to the wall of the house with your own hands.

According to their shape, all canopies near a private house can be divided into:

single-pitched;
gable;
arched

To cover a large area near a private house, for example, above a terrace, it is better to erect lean-to and arched canopies. The design of a lean-to canopy is simple, and therefore should not cause difficulties when building with your own hands. For an arched canopy, you can generally buy some of the elements ready-made; you just have to assemble the canopy, like a Lego set.

A gable canopy is more suitable for a small canopy over the porch to the house. Such a visor will be reliable. Snow will not stay on it in winter.

As for materials, both wooden beams and metal pipes are used to make the frame of the canopy and its supports. And sometimes stone or brick columns are erected for the canopy, which gives the structure majesty and scale.

The roof is made of metal tiles, corrugated sheets, polycarbonate, euro slate. The material is selected the same as the roof of a private house, so that the entire structure looks in the same style. A metal canopy will be more reliable, but it is also more expensive than a wooden canopy. A wooden canopy will look better next to a wooden house, so be sure to take this into account when building. And if you need to create an arched canopy, polycarbonate is suitable, because only it has good flexibility.

And finally, the purpose of awnings for a house can be different. Small awnings are designed to protect the porch from precipitation. A canopy can be built to create a cozy terrace. Often carports are built near a house for a car; this happens if the yard area does not allow the construction of a separate one.

Stages of construction of a canopy from corrugated pipes

It will be difficult for an unprepared person to build a canopy for a house, but in principle it is possible. First you need to decide on its size and choose a design. It is easier to build a lean-to canopy; you need to make a sketch of it and put down the main dimensions. Let's look at everything using the example of a canopy measuring 5x4 m.

Collecting materials

The design of this canopy includes support posts and beams, purlins, roofing and fastening elements. Therefore, to make a lean-to canopy, you need to purchase the following materials:

profile pipe 80x80x2 mm, length 3 m - 3 pieces;
profile pipe 80x40x2 mm, length 5 m – 1 piece;
profile pipe 40x20x2 mm, length 4 m - 9 pieces;
profile pipe 20x20x2 mm, length 5 m - 4 pieces;
side truss 25 cm high and 5 m long - 1 piece;
metal junction strip;
corrugated sheeting 6 m long - 4 sheets;
self-tapping screws;
primer for metal;
concrete mixture and crushed stone.

Don’t forget about all the tools, prepare a tape measure, a level, a grinder with discs for cutting metal, a welding machine, a container for mixing concrete, a shovel.

Foundation and supports

Installation of supports under the canopy begins with clearing the area and marking the area. Metal poles must be installed at a distance of 4 meters from the wall of the house and at a distance of 2.5 m from each other. Therefore, on one straight line it is necessary to dig holes 1.2 m deep and 1.5 shovels wide. A sand-crushed stone cushion, approximately 15-20 cm, is poured into the bottom of the pit, on which supports are installed. The supports must have thrust bearings so that over time they do not begin to fail.

So, support pillars made of 80x80 mm profile pipe are fixed strictly vertically and filled with concrete, which hardens and gains strength in about a week. At this time, you can concrete the area under the canopy, if it is not already concreted. You can use paving slabs or asphalt instead of concrete.

Frame and roof

To make a frame, you need to be able to work with a welding machine or invite a specialist to do this. But before starting welding work, it is necessary to secure a longitudinal support beam 80x40 mm on the load-bearing wall of the house using bolts. It needs to be mounted at a height of 2.5-2.6 m to ensure water flow.

Next, they take the finished side truss and, together, install it on vertical supports, and then weld it. The next stage is creating the sheathing. Pipes 40x20 mm are laid on one side on the truss, and on the other on the transverse beam and are also welded. The distance between the pipes should be approximately 60 cm.

A purlin is made on top of the support pipes for structural rigidity. To do this, you need to lay 20x20 mm corrugated pipes at an equal distance from each other and weld them. After all welding work is completed, you need to clean all welding places and treat all the metal with a primer. If the pipes are galvanized, then it is enough to coat only the welding points with a primer. At this point the frame for the roof will be ready.

The corrugated sheeting is laid in the direction of the slope, overlapping. It is necessary to leave an allowance along the edges of the roof to completely cover the metal frame.

An abutment strip is attached between the wall of the house and the roof; it will prevent water from entering the gap. A gutter can be made at the bottom edge of the slope if necessary.

How to build a canopy out of wood

Agree, working with a welding machine is a serious problem for about half of the people, and metal profiles are expensive nowadays. It’s much easier to collect all the available lumber in the barn, buy what’s missing, and attach a simple but quite practical wooden canopy to the house. Under such a canopy you can rest no worse than under a structure with a metal frame, and maybe even better.

The first thing you need to do is generate an idea and sketch a sketch. We think that after reading the first paragraph of this publication, there will be no problems with ideas. And everyone can also draw a sketch, even if it is not a very beautiful drawing, the main thing is that it is understandable. But problems may arise with the drawing; not everyone will do it correctly. However, a wooden canopy for a private house is quite simple in design and you can do without a drawing at all, the main thing is to calculate everything correctly and paint the material.

We prepare everything you need

Having drawn a sketch and put down all the necessary dimensions of the building, you can begin to calculate the material. We expect to make a wooden canopy with our own hands, 2 m wide, 6 m long and 2.4 m high, and for it we will need the following material.

Beam 150x150 mm, 2.4 meters long – 4 pieces, which will go to the vertical supports.
Two long (6 m) boards 150x50 mm, which we decided to use as longitudinal beams.
Boards 150x50 mm, length 2.5 m – 7 pcs. to the rafters.
Six-meter boards 100x25 mm - 7 pieces will be used for the sheathing.
Metal mounting bracket and long screws and bolts. With their help we will fasten the load-bearing elements of the structure.
3 six-meter sheets of corrugated sheeting 0.9 mm, width 1000 mm.
4 thrust bearings for anchors of vertical supports, mounting width 150 mm.
Bolts with washers and nuts for thrust bearings, special self-tapping screws for corrugated sheets.
Primer for wood processing.
Cement 4 bags, sand 3 bags, crushed stone 1 bag.
A piece of roofing felt 2x1.5 meters.

In addition to the material, let's take a tool:

screwdriver;
drill;
hand saw;
perforator;
furniture stapler;
a set of open-end wrenches, a set of screwdrivers;
bayonet shovel;
trough;
bucket;
pencil, building level, ruler;
laser tape measure;

Assembling the frame and roofing stele

Let's start construction. To make the frame of a wooden canopy for a private house, you need to prepare the site and make anchors for the vertical supports. Without preparation, the construction of even such a simple structure is impossible. We clear and level the area in front of the wall of a private house, install cast-offs, and pull the rope to determine the boundaries of the area under the structure.

For your information! In order to properly level the area under the canopy with your own hands, it is necessary not only to remove debris and foreign objects from it, but also possibly excess soil.

Next, using a laser tape measure, we carefully measure the site and mark the locations for installing anchors. We dig 4 holes to a depth of 1.5 meters, approximately 40x40 cm wide. We line the holes with roofing felt, fastening the pieces of material with a furniture stapler. Fill the molds with concrete mixed with small crushed stone. We still install the thrust bearings in the wet concrete so that the fasteners stick out strictly vertically (you need to check with a level) and wait until the concrete hardens. Next we do the following.

In conclusion, we note that when making a house with a canopy with your own hands, you must balance your desires with your capabilities. You can plan a beautiful steel wall canopy with a glass roof like your neighbor’s, but at the same time do not have the funds to implement the project. Or you can build a canopy with your own hands from scrap lumber for pennies and be happy. Good luck!

Good afternoon - today I have prepared a BIG and NECESSARY article to help everyone who has seriously set out to make a wooden canopy adjacent to a private house with their own hands. That is, I will tell you step by step what simple steps (and they are really simple) consist of building a canopy against the wall of a house. We will make wooden sheds with a polycarbonate roof. We will look at different design options for the same canopy model for a house - that is, we will learn how to create different canopy designs based on one drawing - for any home, for any needs. And after reading the article you will not only LEARN how to make canopies, but also YOU CAN implement any design wooden canopy for a private house.

After all, when you understand the ESSENCE of the design, you will be able to modify this design according to your creative imagination. And who knows, maybe you will even earn a living later as a master of attachment work.

We will consider the following questions in turn.

The canopy to the house is his basic elements
How to change the design of basic elements- and get different canopy designs for your home.
How step by step make a canopy with your own hands.

Let's first look at the classic wood canopy.

CLASSIC SHAPE

CANNOT TO THE HOUSE

So, here (photo below) is a sample of what we will learn to do with our own hands. We see a classic lean-to canopy against the wall of the house. Such a canopy for a house can be made not only at a blank wall - exactly the same canopy structure can be made at the front entrance of the house, in the back yard for gatherings and anywhere, it doesn’t matter, the principle is the same.

GENERAL PRINCIPLE FOR ALL CANNOS the fact that with one edge the canopy is attached to the wall - and with the other edge it stands on support pillars. That is, the canopy to the house must have two types of support - on poles and on the wall.

This is the essence of all outbuildings... however making holes in the wall in order to nail a support beam to it is NOT MANDATORY - below you will see models of canopies where the fasteners do not need to be driven into the wall, but you can install the same SUPPORT POSTS at the wall of the house as on the outer edge of the canopy. So, if you don’t want to make holes in a beautifully plastered wall, don’t rush to leave the article, there will be canopy options for your case too.

4 STAGES OF CREATING A CANOPY

(common to all designs)

The essence of the construction any wooden canopy to the house - consists in four stages.

Fastening first load-bearing beam on the wall (this is the first support of the canopy)
We install support pillars at the required distance from the wall.
Fastening second load-bearing beam on poles (this is the second support for the roof sheathing).
We lay transverse boards on these supporting beams ( roof sheathing)

How exactly I will tell you how to implement all these stages a little later in the article. Now I want to start by showing you the VARIETY of front awning designs. And to prove to you that all these different-looking canopies near the house are MADE ACCORDING TO THE SAME PRINCIPLE... in exactly the same 4 stages.

I will show - and talk about the design of canopies - STARTING with the simplest ones - and ENDING with more complex versions of canopies... Complex not in the drawings, but only in appearance (in reality they are all simple).

So - let's take the simplest canopy for the house (it requires very few beams).

The simplest canopy for the house.

(CANOPY OPTION No. 1 - with material savings)

If you have few wooden beams, but have a task to make a canopy for the house from these small ones. Then you can make a simple design like this (photo below). A total of 5 beams are needed - 2 for support pillars + 3 for load-bearing beams.

Here, the load-bearing side beams are attached to the wall using METAL FASTENERS (the photo below shows what they are like). Such metal brackets are attached to the wall of the house and the ends of the two side beams of our canopy are inserted into them.

The roof in such a canopy attached to the house can be a sheet of polycarbonate (transparent or darkened) ... or the roof can be an awning-curtain that slides along a stretched metal string (and either moves apart like a tent or gathers against the wall like curtains). I talked more about such a curtain roof for awnings in the article

Let's take a more complex canopy... Although its complexity is purely conditional... The essence is basically the same - but this model is already close to the classic design of a canopy attached to a house. The most understandable drawing, without unnecessary elements. Only the basic elements...

support pillars
load-bearing beam on the wall
load-bearing beam on support pillars
roof sheathing beams (for laying polycarbonate sheets on them)

This is a classic- A BASIC part of any canopy. And starting from these basic elements, we will create a great variety of canopy designs for the house.

And to start from the very beginning, we must start from the BOTTOM... from the substrate, from the foundation on which our canopy will stand.

Wooden flooring under the canopy.

(flat wooden base)

Before making a canopy, we need to figure out what we want in the final version - A CANOPY ON THE GROUND (so that the support pillars are dug into the ground, into concrete)... or A CANOPY WITH A BOARD FLOOR (where the support posts are attached to a wooden flooring)?... Let's look at the canopy projects and understand our desires and preferences.

Here (photo above) you can clearly see that first the man laid a neat wooden flooring... And then he installed a canopy on it.

If you are making a canopy for gatherings in the shade on the back patio of your private home, then that's reasonable- make a comfortable wooden flooring.

Let's start with the fact that level the soil surface where there will be a canopy near the house.

After this we need to put on the ground sheathing our future wooden flooring...

And then the sheathing-base cover with boards(we nail them to the sheathing)

You can take long boards at full length (as in the photo below)

Or if our boards are short, then they can be laid out at random... in a checkerboard pattern (as in the photo below).

What to do if you need flooring, but the canopy is already on concrete.

Let's say you decided to make a country canopy... and you did... And now you want it to be under the canopy adjacent to the house there was a neat wooden flooring. So that the furniture can be arranged, put a rug. Here is a photo example of how this can be implemented. We lay the sheathing on posts (if you want to raise the flooring above the ground).

If the soil or concrete foundation in front of the house is uneven in height, then the support columns will be of different heights - for different soil levels - somewhere longer, somewhere shorter. Here you will need to clearly calculate height support columns - so that the beams lying on them are all at the same level - in the same plane.

After that, all that remains is to pave it all with boards - and your flooring is ready for the canopy adjacent to the house.

Here is another photo example of a high deck under a wooden canopy near a house. It is built on the same principle - support posts + sheathing + plank flooring. And (what I liked) the side planes of the flooring are sewn up here - special panels with holes for ventilation are nailed on all sides.

If you are making a canopy at a door high above the ground(that is, your house has a high foundation) - then the wooden flooring under such a canopy should also be high + a porch needs to be built into it to go down from this pedestal. This is just such a project for flooring under a canopy - for a house with a high foundation (photo below). A very picturesque picture - a side porch with flowerbeds on the sides and illuminated steps.

Concrete base

under a canopy near the house.

You can also make a BASE FOR A CANOPY in the form of a concrete blind area (regular or paved with tiles)

And here is the base for the canopy, which I really like - high concrete formwork

We cast a high side from concrete (or lay it out of brick) - we give this side an elegant cladding to look like rough stone. It turns out beautiful.

This option is also good if you have support beams of insufficient height... And such formwork will raise your wooden canopy to the level you need .

Here is a similar principle, where the support pillars of the canopy stand on rocky hills. This allows you to use even short cuts of beams in the construction of sheds.

Here is another example of a canopy, where support pillars that are short in length are used. The support beams were placed on specially built brick walls. The result is a canopy with short legs and a beautiful wall, which can then be decorated in an interesting way and covered with decorative stone. Place a bench and fireplace nearby.

Or such a stone wall-side for our wooden canopy can be decorated in an oriental style - create a fountain there, put flowerpots and pots with plants + stick night lanterns. And what you will get is not just a simple canopy near the house, but a magical corner where you can so comfortably retire or talk about good topics with a friend.

So, we have figured out the BASE for canopies... Now let's see what other canopies there are. And first of all, let's look at the canopy project, for which you do not need to damage the wall of the house.

CANOPY on 4 POSTS

without fastening to the wall of the house.

And remember, I promised to show a wooden canopy near the house, which does not need to be attached to the wall (no need to drill holes and spoil the elegant facade of the house). Here is this model - such a canopy stands on 4 support pillars (or more pillars are possible) ... and it is not attached to the wall - it simply adjoins it, that is, it stands close to it (see options for wooden canopies in the photo below)

And such a free-standing canopy near the house can be decorated with false columns. False columns are available at home improvement stores and can simply be wrapped around your regular wooden shed beams. That is, hide each supporting pillar of the canopy inside such an elegant Greek false column.

Now look at the powerful potential hidden in your new skill of “making awnings with your own hands”...

Large canopy

with a terrace on the second floor.

If you are the owner of a private TWO-STORY house, then why just make a canopy over the porch. Make a canopy along the entire facade of the house - place it on weight on powerful support pillars of thick section - and... MAKE A TERRACE ON THE ROOF OF THE CANNOT.

It's a good idea... Agree.

After all, this is the right idea. Since you have decided to make a canopy near your house... Then why not think about the future. Make a canopy right away on thick powerful beams-pillars. And then next year continue construction on the roof of your shed - attach a railing with balusters- and now you have the opportunity to sit high above the ground - with a cup of tea from a samovar on a wooden terrace made with your own hands. And remember that it all started with your humble desire to make some kind of canopy...

Just my advice: it is better to make similar structures on the south side of the house a (the north side is poorly lit and it is not advisable to additionally darken it with a canopy - there will be less light in the house and the walls will become damp).

... well, stop dreaming - it's time to DO.

So, as I promised - 4 simple steps. Each stage in itself is not difficult, everyone can do it. And all the stages together give a single result - THE CANOPY YOU DREAMED OF.

Making a canopy - stage one

canopy support ON THE WALL.

First, you need to decide AT WHAT LEVEL you need to make a hanging beam on the wall. This is important because...
If you want the canopy roof to be level (not sloped) so that you can walk on it, so that you can make a terrace on it in the future... then the level of your beam on the wall should coincide with the level of the beam on the pillars - that is, they should be at the same height from the ground.

If you are not planning any terraces on the roof of the carport - Do you want this roof to be sloped? so that the snow slides off it itself (that is, you need a canopy with a pitched roof), then you need nail the supporting beam to the wall HIGHER than the beam on the support pillars. Here in the photo below I show an example of this thought of mine. Where is the load-bearing beam near the wall (arrow 1) higher level than the supporting beam on the pillars (arrow 2). And due to this different height, we get a canopy with a sloping pitched roof.

Now, let's look at the ways in which this beam can be attached to the wall, or what other fasteners (besides the beam) can be used to attach the canopy to the wall of the house.

Method one - Support in the form of a beam.

We simply attach a horizontal beam to the wall (with self-tapping screws) - it will hold the roof of our canopy (we will lay our cross beams directly on it for sheathing the roof).

And so that you do not doubt the reliability of the beam fastening, you can attach a whole beam-holding mechanism to the wall - in the shape of a square (see photo with a red arrow below).

Method two - Vertical racks against the wall.

If you have obtained beams for the support pillars of a smaller diameter... and the load on the roof of the canopy is planned to be more serious (i.e. you want to make the roof sheathing also from heavy beams)... THEN you need ADDITIONALLY REINFORCE your supporting beam on the wall and also the supporting beam that lies on the pillars

We see that the load-bearing horizontal beam (attached to the wall) is reinforced additional vertical support bars(arrow 1). Thus, the canopy attached to the house does not rest its entire weight on the wall beam, but distributes its weight onto the wall posts and beams.

And the supporting vertical pillars from the other end of the pergola (i.e. those from the outer end of the porch) have diagonal short support beams, which hold the second load-bearing horizontal beam (arrow 2).

By the way (in the photo above), pay attention to WHAT THE SUPPORT POSTS STAND ON... They are based on metal bearings on a high thick metal leg, which is screwed into the flooring boards.

Here is another photo where the canopy has support beams right next to the wall of the house A. It’s safer this way: you don’t have to worry about the wall, in case the beam falls off the wall under the weight of time. Additional pillars against the wall will prevent this from happening.

The third method is support in the form of metal brackets.

We attach brackets-holders to the wall (stone or wood or brick)... This is how we see in the photo below... And we place our side cross beams on them (as on model No. 1 of the canopy from this article).

Important condition: Not every wall is suitable for such fasteners. If the wall is tiny, or made of porous material (foam blocks, for example), then the fasteners will not adhere well to the wall. And you must understand that heavy beams will sooner or later fall on the heads of your neighbors.

Therefore, consult with specialists. It’s better to choose the fastening method in which there is not a single bit of doubt - that is, the one where there are additional vertical posts along the wall that support a horizontal beam on the wall (see the second method).

Making a canopy - the second stage

install SUPPORT POSTS.

I described this stage in detail in the article. All 4 methods of installing poles are described there - both in the ground, and on a concrete foundation, and on a wooden flooring... And here I will only show a photo of the options for fastening elements for support poles. Or you can simply dig them into the ground (after tarring them and wrapping them in roofing material so that they do not rot in the ground).

Thrust bearings (or anchors) serve to protect wooden posts from rotting. U-shaped and T-shaped anchors are best suited for this purpose. They allow the beam to rise 2 cm above the surface. Be blown by the breeze and do not retain rain moisture.

If you bury your poles in the ground, it is better to use thrust bearings with long anchors (in the form of a reinforcement rod or pipe) - this way the metal part of the pole will be in the ground, and the wooden part on the surface.

And if you don't want to spend money on steel bearings. And just dig the pillars into the cement foundation the old fashioned way, then don’t be lazy before tar that part of the timber that will go into the ground. Resin will extend the life of the wood, protecting it from rot. Instead of tarring, ordinary roofing material is often used. They wrap it around the underground part of the timber, and tightly wrap this roofing material “swaddling” with metal wire. Place the end of the pillar wrapped in roofing felt in the hole and fill it with cement.

And also the support pillars for the canopy can be made OF BRICK MASONRY and lined with decorative stone. Like in the photo below.

Making a canopy - stage three

place the BEARING BEAM on the pillars.

You will decide for yourself how to place the beam on the pillars. I'll show you several ways to attach a load-bearing beam to support posts, and you choose.

Method one (beam on top of pillars)

We place the beam on top of the post and fix it with long screws (central photo) or metal plates (right photo).

To prevent the supporting beam from bending on the support pillars under the weight of the roof sheathing, it can be REINFORCED. To do this, add diagonal beams (see extreme examples in the photo) or add an extended beam in the center (central example in the photo below).

Method two (beam from above into grooves on support pillars).

We cut out a hole-groove in each support column. And we put our load-bearing beam into this groove. Naturally, this method is suitable if our beam has a side that thinner in size than the thickness of the support column.

Method two - instead of a beam there are 2 boards.

This method is remarkable because it saves material (boards are cheaper than beams). And in terms of endurance, 2 boards are equal to one beam. We fill two boards on both sides of the support post and together they act as a regular load-bearing beam - see the photo of the canopy structures below.

I described all these methods of laying load-bearing beams on poles (for the roof of a country canopy) in detail in the article “Canopy for a summer house - 10 WAYS to make it yourself.” So if something is not clear here, you can find additional explanations in this article on how to make a canopy at home with your own hands.

Making a canopy - stage four

canopy roof lathing

The first method is lathing over the beams.

Laying down the sheathing boards just on top on the beams. And fasten it with metal corners. Like in the photos of the house canopy below.

The second method is on the grooves.

We cut grooves in the sheathing boards. And we put these grooves on the supporting beam. The difficulty here is that the grooves at the ends of the boards must coincide with the beams (therefore, the boards must first be dragged up, laid out on the roof, marked with a pencil where the grooves will be cut, then removed, sawed out the grooves, and lifted onto the roof again).

Method two - joint to joint.

This method is also possible, but the sheathing beams must be adjusted to fit snugly to snugly in order to fit neatly into the metal holder ears.

Roof for canopy

(roofing felt, polycarbonate, slate, tiles)

The most beautiful type of roof is transparent polycarbonate. This way there will always be light under the canopy. Such a roof is required if this side of the house faces north, so that excess darkness does not accumulate under the canopy.

If the canopy is on the sunny side of the house, and you instead want to reduce the sun above your head and sit in the shade of the canopy. Then you can choose any opaque roof - cheap roofing felt and slate, or more expensive soft tiles, or chalkboard.

Important: Don't forget to provide waterproofing the joint canopy with wall. To do this, you need to buy and nail a small iron visor. As in the photo below.

An elegant addition to a canopy.

You can cover the space between the support pillars with panels with sheathing. They are easy to manufacture - a regular rectangular frame made of thin blocks - and a thin strip is criss-crossed onto them. You can plant vines next to such a sheathing - they will beautifully crawl up the pergola.

As a result, you will have a gazebo adjacent to the house. There you can put a table and benches for gatherings with friends and neighbors.

You see how interesting it is to make a canopy with your own hands... believe in your own hands... and continue to create beauty around you... This is very useful. Because when you are doing good things, there is no time to do bad or sad things... And if there is a lot of beauty in life, then there is no room for despondency.

Get busy living or get busy dying...

Take care of your health or take care of your illness...

Deal with fear or deal with courage

Engage in despondency, or engage in creating something new

We ourselves choose what to do... So let's choose to create something new and useful...
Because when we create something, we create ourselves. The best version of ourselves.

Forward. You just need to start... then continue... and then finish. It's simple.

If I weren't a girl... I would build this myself. But all I can do is inspire boys. Therefore, it’s up to you to build))), dear boys.

Good luck with your dacha construction.
Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the site

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Canopy structures

A canopy is a broad concept. That's what they call big number of different outbuildings. Sheds can be single-pitch or double-pitch, straight or multi-sided. And this is an incomplete list, since there are many more classifications and options for even the most demanding owners of country houses.

Such structures can be located in different parts of the site. Often, awnings are installed close to the house near the door or open veranda. Structures of this type are not initially planned when a house is built, but are subsequently completed by the owners if desired.

Built-in canopies are somewhat similar to the previous ones, but the difference is that they are initially included in the construction plan and are an extension of the house. These are mainly built for barbecue areas.

Sheds are also created separately from the house. Often such structures are built to store a car or temporarily store food and materials. They are also installed as an analogue of a gazebo for relaxation.

To create canopies, different materials are used both for supporting structures and for their covering and possible cladding. Mainly used for roofing metal profile or reeds, and for the base - wood. The use of “living roofs” adds originality to such structures. For example, the same reeds or grapes are the easiest wooden canopy to make. For a reliable base, you can take metal pipes.

Start of construction

First you need to prepare the necessary materials. Their list and quantity will depend on the type of canopy and its size. For example, you can take a free-standing canopy measuring 6 by 3 meters. To get started you will need:

After purchasing all the necessary materials, you need to mark the area on which the structure will stand. Need to draw rectangle 3 meters wide and 6 meters long. On six-meter sides you need to dig three holes for the main supports. Make them deep, about 20-30 centimeters deeper than the freezing layer of the earth.

Before installation in the pits, the upper parts of the supports must be prepared for attaching the beams. It won't be difficult to do this. To prepare you will need a grinder. You need to cut the end of the pipe in the middle by 100 mm. Bend one formed part 90 degrees, thereby creating a place for attaching the beam. In the standing parts, holes should be made for the bolts that will secure the beams.

You need to pour some crushed stone at the bottom of the holes. After this, lower the pipes and secure them with guy wires. Using a level you need to level the racks. It is necessary to take into account that one side will need to be made higher for water drainage. Then you can start preparing the solution. Cement, sand and crushed stone must be mixed in proportions - 1: 3: 4. The prepared solution must be poured into holes with exposed pipes in them. When the concrete has hardened a little, you need to fix the upper parts of the pipes by placing beams on them in previously prepared places. It is advisable to wait a few weeks for the concrete to harden well and gain rigidity.

In hot weather, concrete must be watered to prevent cracks from forming. In cold weather, you can cover it with a layer of soil. But it is advisable to build at a temperature of 20 degrees without precipitation. Then the conditions will be ideal. It is better to wait for the concrete to completely harden, but if necessary, you can begin the final part within a few days.

Installation of rafters and roofing

Basically, to save money, metal tiles, slate or profiled sheets are used. All of them are inexpensive and last quite a long time.

After the concrete has hardened, you can take on the rafters and roof. To do this you need:

18 squares of selected roofing material;
160−200 screws;
120 mm nails (pack);
6-meter gutters;
fasteners for gutters.

First you need to install the beams between the posts. Wooden beams can be used as beams. But it is worth noting that the wood will crack over time and its rigidity will decrease. Therefore, craftsmen recommend using two boards that are bolted together.

Then comes the installation of rafters and sheathing. Transverse boards are placed edgewise on top of previously concreted pipes. . Attached with regular bolts and nuts. After securing the boards, you need to install the cross boards.

When installing a roof, you must first install the bottom sheets. Then you need to lay out new layers on them one by one. If the final result is that the top sheet extends beyond the edges, then it must be cut with metal scissors or a grinder when using metal tiles.

Once the roof is installed, you need to start for installing rain gutters. It is necessary to cut 6 meters of the drain gutter with a grinder. Then attach the fasteners to the base with screws and install the gutter directly into them.

Building sheds is quite easy if you choose the right material and prepare properly.

With the help of canopies, you can protect your home from rain, snow and sun, expand your living space, and shelter your car or other equipment from precipitation. With the many functions that this extension performs, building a canopy with your own hands is more than a doable task even for a beginner!

Shed structures - from extension to construction!

A canopy is a general name for a very large number of different extensions and independent buildings. The designs of canopies are very different - single-slope and double-slope, straight and multi-faceted. And the classification according to the location of structures is even greater:

attached canopies are erected close to the wall of a house or other building, above the entrance or above an open balcony or veranda. Such structures are easy to carry out after the construction of the house; initially they are not included in the building plan;
built-in structures are part of the architectural ensemble; they are provided for at the building design stage. Such canopies are most often built over a barbecue area, making it like an extension of the house;
free-standing sheds are erected away from buildings. Most often, these are built due to the lack of a garage, or for short-term storage of any materials. Free-standing structures are also popular in wide open areas, where they are arranged for people to relax, as an alternative to gazebos.

A variety of materials are used for canopies, both to create the supporting structure itself and for the roof. Traditionally this is wood, polycarbonate, corrugated sheets, metal profiles, reeds. “Living” canopies look very original, the roof of which is completely overgrown with vines, for example, girl’s grapes. The easiest way to do this is that the bars can also be replaced with metal pipes.

Building a canopy with your own hands - where to start?

Let's consider the option of building a free-standing canopy with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists and assistants. To implement the 6*3 m canopy project at the first stage you will need:

six profile pipes 100*100*4000 mm;
13 boards 50*150*6000 mm;
15 boards 30*150*6000 mm;
2-3 bags of cement;
0.2 m 3 crushed stone;
0.2 m 3 sand;
Bulgarian;
concrete mixer or container for manual mixing of concrete.

Try to make purchases immediately before starting work, since for convenience it is best to store all materials directly at the construction site. After purchasing, we make markings for the supports; we need to create a rectangle, the sides of which are 3 and 6 m. On the six-meter sides we will place three supports, for which we need to dig holes, making them deeper than the soil freezing layer.

The upper ends of the supports must first be prepared for attaching the beams. This is not difficult to do, but you will need a grinder. Using a tool, we cut the ends at the corners by 100 mm and bend two opposite sides inward, forming a place for landing the beam. In the standing sides we make two holes for bolts with which the beams will be securely fastened.

We pour some crushed stone into the prepared holes at the bottom, install the racks and fix them with guy wires. We align the profiles on a six-meter board, which must be attached to the two outer posts. The middle support can also be placed on the same board. To level the top ends of the posts, measure two meters from the top ends and make appropriate marks. Having stretched the twine between the outer posts, using a liquid level, which must be applied to the horizontally stretched twine, we check the correct location of the supports.

When you're done with one side, move on to the next. Everything needs to be done according to the same algorithm, the only difference between the sides is the different heights of the supports. One of the sides should be 30-50 cm higher for water drainage. When the racks are installed and fixed, start preparing the solution - for 1 part of cement you need 3 parts of sand and 4 parts of crushed stone. Pour the prepared solution into the holes with exposed supports. After letting it harden a little, you should fix the upper ends by placing the boards on the prepared places.

It is advisable to wait until the concrete gains sufficient rigidity; this can take from two weeks to a month.

Don't forget to water it in hot weather, and if frost is approaching, cover the supports at the base with a good layer of soil. It is best to wait for the period required for complete hardening, but if necessary, you can begin the final stage within a few days.

How to make a canopy - let's get down to the rafters and roofing!

When the concrete has hardened properly, it’s time to start working on the rafters and roofing. You will need materials and tools such as:

metal tiles or polycarbonate or other type of roofing – 18 m2;
self-tapping screws for metal tiles (160 pcs) or fastenings for other types of roofing;
0.5 kg nails (120 mm);
10 bolts with nuts (diameter – 10 mm, length – 150 mm);
fasteners for gutters (20 pcs);
drain gutters - 6 meters.

How to make a canopy - step by step diagram

Step 1: Installing Beams Between Posts

Timber can be used as beams, but after some time longitudinal cracks may appear in it, which impairs the rigidity of this material. Therefore, it is recommended to use two boards 50*150*6000 mm, which are bolted together.

Step 2: Installing rafters and sheathing

Transverse boards are fixed to the beams at a distance of 75 cm from each other. Across these boards at the edges and in the middle we lay boards with a smaller cross-section to ensure stability in the vertical position. The boards should be fastened to the beams with ordinary nails, since the self-tapping screws break due to vibration, because they are heated during production. After securing the boards, we install the remaining “thirties”, to which we will then screw the metal tiles. The distance between the boards should be equal to or less than the wave width of the roofing material.

Step 3: Laying the roof

When installing metal tiles, you need to attach the bottom sheets first, and then the top ones. If there is excess, it is better to trim it with a grinder or metal scissors. There are special fasteners for this.

Step 4: Spillway

When the roof is ready, it's time to start installing drain gutters. We measure the required length, cut off the excess with a grinder, and, distributing them evenly along the entire length of the canopy, fasten them with self-tapping screws. When all the fasteners are installed, it's time to lay the gutters in them. You can study the same diagram before making a canopy over the garage - this task will differ only in the absence of two racks that will be replaced by the garage wall. Under such a canopy, not only a person, but also a car can easily hide from rain or other precipitation.

Important nuances - what you shouldn’t forget!

You already know how to make a canopy, all you have to do is figure out how to extend its service life. To do this, treat both metal and wooden elements with protective compounds before installation. In the case of metal pipes, these are anti-corrosion primers, and it is important to treat wooden elements with anti-fungal and water-repellent primers. They come in both colorless and tinted, so in addition to their protective function, they will also add visual appeal to the canopy.

After making a canopy, do not forget to pay attention to the floor. There are many options - from a concrete screed to a cushion of gravel or crushed stone. If the canopy is built at the house, then the best option would be wooden flooring. A few sockets and good lighting under the canopy would be helpful. In order not to spend money on unnecessary building materials, plant climbing plants around the canopy, for example, virgin grapes, which can cover a huge area in one season. This is both beautiful and practical, because thanks to the vines you will get good protection from the wind.

Planning the arrangement of the courtyard space of a private house often involves making a canopy. This relatively simple and reliable design can be used to protect the car from rain, snow or direct sunlight. Places for outdoor recreation are arranged under it. How to make a canopy in the courtyard of a private house with your own hands at minimal cost?

Choosing a canopy design

At the first stage, you need to choose the right place for the future structure. To do this, the total area of the canopy, its height and configuration are calculated. It should not reduce the natural lighting of rooms in a private house; there must be no direct contact with power lines. The next stage is the choice of design.

The main difference between the models is the roof configuration. According to this parameter, canopies are conditionally divided into the following groups:

Single-pitch. The easiest option for self-production. It is important to correctly calculate the angle of inclination of the roof and choose the appropriate material for its arrangement. Disadvantage – insufficient degree of protection in case of side winds during rain or snow. Such canopies are most often made close to the house to reduce the influence of this factor.
Gable. They have all the advantages of a similar roof for a house - uniform load on the snow cap, protection from slanting rain. The complexity of the arrangement lies in the formation of the ridge part and the calculation of the angle of inclination of the slopes.
Arched. They have the best aesthetic and performance properties. They are used as roofing material. Difficulties arise during the manufacture of the frame - the arched parts must be identical to avoid refractions of the polycarbonate and ensure its tight pressing.

The choice depends on the availability of materials, the possibility of purchasing them, tools and experience in the construction of such structures. Most often they stop at a simple lean-to canopy.

Manufacturing materials

The future design is subject to special requirements - it must be reliable, not subject to change over a long period of time, and resistant to moisture and temperature changes. In addition to the configuration, these parameters are affected by the material of manufacture.

The main elements of a canopy for the yard of a private house:

Support posts. They must withstand the weight of the roof, and the snow load is additionally taken into account.
Roofing material fixation system. Most often, a lattice base is made on which the roofing material is installed. If it is polycarbonate, the distance between the fasteners is as large as possible to ensure illumination of the enclosed area.
Roofing material. You can use any suitable material, from ordinary roofing felt to cellular polycarbonate. It is important to follow the installation technology and provide waterproof protection.

Each of these elements needs to be considered in more detail.

Frame

To save space and reliability, it is recommended to choose round or square pipes as the material for making racks. They are relatively easy to process; after installation, a protective coating of a layer of paint is applied. The connection of elements is done using welding. The mechanical assembly is not reliable enough.

The supporting racks must be made of square pipes with a minimum size of 100 * 100 mm. The support for the roof deck is made from scraps of a smaller section - 50 * 50 mm. The amount of material depends on the size of the canopy and its height.

An alternative to steel pipes is a frame made of wooden blocks and boards. It is less reliable than metal; wood dries out and changes shape under the influence of moisture and temperature.

It is used if consumables are available, in order to create an architectural ensemble that is unified with the house. Before assembly, the elements must be treated with moisture-proof and antifungal agents.

Roof

The use of traditional roofing material will provide protection from moisture and a long service life of the coating. Additionally, you need to take into account the rules of arrangement. Some will require a solid base, which will increase the labor intensity of the work.

Materials used for canopy roofing:

Polycarbonate. The best choice in terms of quality, installation complexity and reliability. The low specific gravity and windage are compensated by the increased frequency of fastening. ABOUT .
Sheet slate. An economical option, but it is heavy, so be sure to use a waterproof film.
Bitumen roofing. It is laid on a solid base and is light in weight. Disadvantage: to ensure tightness, the seams undergo heat treatment, which requires standing on the roof. This is impossible if the structure is not designed to support the weight of an adult.
Profiled sheeting. Its properties are similar to slate, but it is characterized by light weight and ease of installation.

After selecting all consumables, you can begin construction.

Canopy in the courtyard of a house: step-by-step manufacturing instructions

First you need to prepare the site. It is leveled and filled with concrete. An alternative is laying paving slabs. An option with less labor costs is to arrange a foundation only for support columns. A prerequisite is a flat surface for attaching the racks.

Then you need to do the following.

Install support columns and secure them. Use a level and plumb to check the correct position.
Temporary stiffeners can be used to secure the supports.
Installation of the base for the roof, fastening it to the supporting structure.
Installation of roofing material.
Checking the reliability of the canopy.

If profile pipes were used as the manufacturing material, after assembly they need to be primed and painted.

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