External insulation of a wooden house. Materials and technology insulation of the external walls of a wooden house.

With the onset of summer many owners of suburban wooden houses  hurry to increase their functionality with a heater. However, the choice of material depends directly on its characteristics. The most effective is the external insulation of the house - we will consider the most popular materials.

Choosing a heater

The choice among insulation for buildings is quite wide. Previously, they can be divided into two groups: synthetic and natural raw materials. But not all fit to insulate wooden structures from the outside. The peculiarity of wooden buildings is such that the walls of a tree need constant ventilation. On the basis of what, it is necessary to choose the appropriate thermal insulation. Next, consider each material for the better.

Mineral wool

This material is considered the most suitable option for outdoor insulation of buildings from the outside. Buildings of logs, timber and frame type are most often insulated with mineral wool, however it does not matter whether the new house or the old one. When using any insulation, the wooden walls are treated with special compounds to protect the surfaces from the slime and insects. Minvatoi is convenient to fill a wide variety of voids. It is good at letting air in, and it shows the optimal values ​​for thermal conductivity.

• It has soundproofing parameters;
• Does not require additional fastening;
• Structure mineral wool  soft and elastic, which allows you to work quickly and efficiently;
• High thermal conductivity;
• Resistance to temperature drop;
• Fire resistance.

Proceeding from everything, it is possible to draw a conclusion, that it is possible quickly and qualitatively to warm the mineral wool at home. For convenience, mineral wool is produced in slabs.

Ecowool

For the first time produced ecowool in Finland. The harsh climate of this country has not affected the material from cellulose and antiseptics. Today ecowool is successfully used in different climatic zones. In order to fix it from the outside, a vapor barrier layer is not required. Methods of application: adhesive, inflatable with the help of special equipment and bulk. A layer of 10 cm reliably protects the log cabin from the cold. Cellulose wool is an environmentally friendly product and is completely safe for humans. It consists of waste paper products treated with antiseptics, which makes it not subject to insects pests and rodents. Ecowool belongs to a little fuel.

• Environmentally friendly product;
• No mold appears;
• Do not gnaw the mouse;
• Soundproof qualities;
• High values ​​for thermal insulation;
• Possibility to insulate both outside and inside;
• Breathability;
• Low inflammable;
• A light weight.

Polyurethane foam

PPU is a modern product for insulation of buildings. Apply PPU professional masters with the help of special equipment. Initially, the components of this heat insulator are in different capacities and only, then they are mixed in the apparatus. Warming comes out by the method of sputtering. For a short time outside the wall wooden house  covered with a layer of polyurethane foam. And within 20 seconds it hardens. Such application has one important point this is the absence of seams. In the polyurethane foam added components repelling insects and mice. Manufacturers state that polyurethane foam is used up to thirty years.

• Security;
• Soundproofing;
• Steam insulation;
• It does not allow moisture to accumulate inside the premises;
• He is not afraid of fire;
• Excellent adhesion parameters (sticks to surfaces and fills well the non-evenness).

Styrofoam

Often when choosing insulation for a wooden house outside the owners choose between polystyrene or mineral wool. But the advantages of polystyrene are as follows: excellent sound insulation, light weight and long service life for 20 years. The material produces a different size and density. Foam is used as insulation from the outside and inside the premises. Despite many positive characteristics of polystyrene, it has a high flammability class. Another significant disadvantage is the low hygroscopicity. Proceeding from this, experts do not recommend warming the foam with a house made of wood.

• It cuts well into the fragments;
• A light weight;
• Withstands temperature changes;
• Excellent soundproofing qualities;
• Suitable for all climatic zones;

Extruded polystyrene foam

Styrofoam refers to synthetic materials. This plastic is endowed with a uniform structure, in which there are small closed cells, which determines the high heat-insulating parameters. But such a drawback as low vapor permeability makes it unclaimed as a warmer for wooden houses. Basically it is used for the insulation of garages, foundations, septic tanks, roofing.

• Low price;
• Durability;
• It is easy to process.

PenoFol

Penofol is one of the most advanced insulation products. One of its subspecies has a special substrate, consisting of polished foil. With her help, the heat reflects and does not go beyond the walls of the house. This action resembles the work of a thermos. Thanks to which the insulated log house outside with penofol in the winter months retains heat, and in the summer keeps cool.

Peat blocks

To obtain blocks, peat is mixed with sand, sawdust, or wood shavings. The product obtained is environmentally friendly and is used as a heater. So that wooden house  breathing it is quite possible to insulate the outside with peat blocks. Manufacturers of these products give a guarantee on the effect of peat blocks for a period of more than 70 years. And their heat-insulating properties are equal with the parameters of silicone bricks. The strength of peat blocks is similar to some building materials, and of them also erect bearing walls.

• Good sound insulation;
• Bactericidal properties (absence of mold without additional treatment);
• Do not rot;
• Do not ignite.

Wood-fiber plates

This material is used for wall insulation outside  . Manufacture of fiberboard from processed wood. For this, the raw materials are ground into a chip, and then processed to a fibrous state, after which water is added to the resulting mass and dried. The entire process passes without the addition of formaldehyde resins. Fibreboard is a good external insulation for walls of any structures and in particular wooden houses.

• Ecological compatibility;
• Strength;
• Hygroscopicity;
• Heat resistance;
• Soundproof qualities;
• Used as a heater and as a liner.

Bung

Since the cost of this product is quite high, it is not often used as a heat insulating product. Cork sheets are made from cork bark. Produce it by grinding and heating the fibers. The connecting link in the production of plates is an adhesive substance called suberin. Earlier, the cork was used as a decoration for music studios as a powerful sound absorber.

Not for nothing, the cork is considered one of the best insulants used for the exterior walls of wooden houses. Cork is a product that can be used for a long time. And in the work of cork sheets have proven themselves as easy and pliable material. Log house, insulated with cork sheets, will not only keep the heat well, but it is also well protected from pests.

• Cork sheets are insulated with walls both outside and inside
• Does not rot
• Does not succumb to mold
• Long service life
• Wonderful insulation
• Decorative view

It should be noted that cork sheets, fibreboard, peat blocks, ecowool belong to organic heaters, naturally, and the price for them will be higher than for synthetic products. At the same time, they are not inferior to mineral wool and PPU in such parameters as thermal insulation, sound insulation, durability, air permeability.

Warming of the outer walls of the old wooden house is a rather difficult task, requiring a competent and thorough approach. To date, the most better material  for insulation is mineral wool. In a house whose walls are covered with this waterproof and durable insulation, you can live all year round, and even in the most severe frosts it will be warm and comfortable.

Stage one. Steam insulation

For the vapor barrier of walls, aluminum foil, polyethylene or PVC foil is usually used, sometimes roofing paper is used. The main purpose of this procedure is to prevent the accumulation of condensation on the walls of the house. Excess moisture does not bode well, because it causes mold and fungus, and in some cases, the cause of rotting of the wooden base of the wall.

The vapor-insulating material should be fastened to the external surface of the walls with nails, and care must be taken to ensure that all of its joints are airtight and do not allow moisture to pass through. To prevent condensation from accumulating under the film or foil, drill holes in the wall with a diameter of 2 mm. The distance between the holes must be at least 1 meter. If the house is built from a log house, holes are not necessary.

Stage two. Frame and thermal insulation

The frame is necessary for a firm and even laying of the heat-insulating material, in this case - mineral wool. Basically for these purposes, pine rails are used, the thickness of which is equal to half the thickness of the mineral wool layer. Mount the slats to the wall is best with the help of screws, but you can use nails for these purposes.

In laying mineral wool there is nothing complicated, but you should know that the best effect is achieved by installing two layers of this material. Putting mineral wool in two layers, it is easy to get rid of all the undesirable slots through which moisture and cold can penetrate.

Stage three. Vibration and double frame

In order to cover the walls  a layer of vibration isolation, a polyethylene film is usually used, which is fastened with brackets to the rock wool retaining framework. The purpose of this procedure is to provide additional protection of the heat-insulating material against moisture.

After the vibration isolation layer is attached, it is necessary to make a wooden frame, to which the facade skin of the building will be fastened. For the construction of the frame, pine strips 2.5-3 cm thick are used. In the lower part of the walls (between the frame and the layer of vibration isolation), a thick metal meshto protect the house from the penetration of rodents and insects.

You can trim the facade wooden boards, special facade lining or siding. If you choose from these three options for plating, then siding is out of the competition, because this material is durable, durable, besides, its installation is nothing complicated of itself.

04.09.2016 0 Comments

The popularity of houses made of wood, with each passing year only increases. And not for nothing. This is due to the ease and speed of the construction works, as well as with excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. However, the latter fact does not exclude the advisability of thermal insulation, especially in areas with a harsh climate. How to properly insulate a wooden house from outside and what? Advantages and disadvantages of popular materials, as well as important nuances  the implementation of this kind of work with their own hands will be disclosed further.

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Warmer options

Warming of the wooden house from the outside has a lot of advantages:

• the dimensions of the interior rooms remain unchanged;
• no debris and dust inside the room;
• there is no need to rearrange furniture or perform any internal work;
• additional protection of the structure from environmental influences;
• for old, lost the attractiveness of houses, warming is an opportunity to improve, transform the appearance of the building.

Note!  Incorrect work on the insulation of a wooden house from the outside can lead to the appearance of mold, spoilage and decay of the wooden structure. Therefore, only a competent, comprehensive approach to the matter guarantees a qualitative, desirable result.

Despite the constant discoveries and developments in the construction and technology of building materials, 3 versions of insulation materials were firmly entrenched in the market:

1. Mineral wool.
2. Styrofoam.
3. Penoplex or polystyrene.

All of them have excellent insulating properties. However, each material has its own peculiarities and drawbacks, which are extremely important to take into account. A detailed examination of each material will help to decide what is better to insulate the wooden house.

Mineral wool, insulation features

Minvata is a compressed particle of artificial stone, basalt and slag. It does not support combustion, which is commendable for the log, and is not subjected to deformation. This material has proved itself in construction and is widely used for warming the walls of a wooden house.

The advantages of mineral wool with confidence include:

• ease of installation;
• ecological compatibility of the material, its harmlessness;
• guarantees additional protection from the effects of fire;
• democracy, affordability;
• durability;
• the structure does not deteriorate, does not change under the influence of temperature changes;
• the material has a high melting point, therefore in regard to fire safety is better than many.

Disadvantages of minvats, too, there are a few:

• the need for additional protective equipment (respirator, gloves) for construction work;
• does not protect the surface of the log from the development of fungus and mold;
• hygroscopic, easily absorbs moisture, so high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier are required.

When choosing a mineral wool, as a heater, take into account the following tips:

1. Before warming, be sure to treat the walls of the log house with a special antiseptic solution.
2. Completely eliminate the possibility of moisture penetration to the mineral wool. To do this, the vapor barrier layer is laid, then the insulation and the layer of waterproofing.
3. Mount the material you need with the approach to half of the previous sheet of material, the space between the elements are not allowed.
4. In addition, it is possible to limit the shift of mineral wool by means of anchors.
5. You can use not only minivat, but also its varieties (for example, glass wool).

Polyfoam as a heater

If it is impossible or unwilling to use mineral wool, it is possible to insulate the wooden house with your own hands with the help of polystyrene foam. Outwardly it is a collection of a large number of air, foamed balls of plastic mass. According to the insulating qualities, polystyrene foam (polystyrene foam) is not inferior to mineral wool.

The merits of this material include:

• simplicity and convenience of installation;
• ease of material;
• dense surface, which is not exposed to moisture and fungi;
• increased soundproofing qualities;
• resistance to temperature changes and precipitation;
• long service life.

The main disadvantage of the building material is its lack of naturalness and low fire resistance.

Thermal insulation of walls of a wooden house with foam plastic is not at all more difficult than mineral wool. On the contrary, the sheet of material is easily transferred, adjusted to the required size by trimming. The nuances of working with such an insulator include:

1. The material must be laid side to side.
2. For the treatment of lumens, a diffusion membrane is used at the joints of the expanded polystyrene sheets. It is fixed to the surface with a stapler directly on the lumen.
3. The diffusion membrane must have a minimum width of 10 cm to ensure complete insulation of the foam joints.
4. To connect the pieces of the membrane, use an adhesive tape.
5. Despite the persistent ratio of foam to moisture, the waterproofing layer is still necessary.

Note! Many builders categorically oppose the use of foam plastic as a heat insulator. Because, if not properly organized works, it will accelerate the development of the fungus on the walls of the house. To avoid this, be sure to provide a good clearance between the wall of the structure and the vapor barrier to ensure sufficient air ventilation.

Warming with foam (polystyrene)

Penoplex is a colleague of styrofoam. It is also a honeycomb, honeycomb surface filled with polystyrene beads, but technical specifications  exceeds its predecessor.

Penoplex allows you to warm the wooden house without problems. For this, the heat insulator has a lot of prerequisites:

• increased technical characteristics;
• good surface strength;
• does not rot and does not absorb moisture;
• perfectly preserves the internal heat;
• does not react to changes in external temperatures;
• simplicity of installation;
• environmentally friendly material;
• does not burn;
• will please with a long service life.

The disadvantages of a penoplex are as follows:

1. The cost of the material exceeds the cost of mineral wool or polystyrene.
2. The need for high-quality protection against ultraviolet exposure to sunlight. They destroy the structure of the heat insulator.
3. It is sensitive to the effects of solvents and other similar substances.
4. It is easily damaged by rodents.

As for the thermal insulation process, it is identical to the foam plastic.

Note!  An obligatory condition for insulation by a foam is the presence of a ventilating space between the vapor barrier and a wooden wall.

Technology of insulation of the log house outside

Now let's look at how to insulate a wooden house from the outside, step by step:

1. Prepare the surface of the walls of the house. To do this, clean them from dirt, and treat them well with a special solution of antiseptic action or a primer.
2. Clear the gaps, holes and cracks in the wall with a mounting foam. As the foam dries, cut off the remainder with a sharp knife.
3. Wet walls are not suitable for insulation. Wait for the surface to be completely dry.
4. For laying the vapor barrier layer, perform a crate of wooden rails. The step between the slats should be equal to 1 m. The lining should guarantee the presence of a ventilation space within 20 mm. This is necessary to prevent the accumulation of moisture droplets on the tree, followed by rotting, deterioration of the wall surface.
5. Install the vapor barrier material. It can be isospan, polyethylene or ruberoid. Fix the vapor barrier on the slats, and fix the fixing points with adhesive tape to seal the cover.
6. Carry out the frame for the heat insulator, also using wooden planks 40 × 100 mm. In its grooves will be mounted insulation. Therefore, to achieve maximum joint density, the distance between the slats should be 15 mm less than the width of the sheet of material used. Wooden trims are installed only on the edge.
7. With the help of a building level, keep an eye on the smoothness of the crate, in order to avoid the appearance of hills, gaps and other shortcomings.
8. Put the heater in the resulting grooves, taking into account its individual characteristics.
9. The next stage of the "pie" is laying the layer of the hydro-barrier membrane. It is necessary to fasten it with nails or a construction stapler to wooden frame. The joints should be treated again with adhesive tape for tightness.
10. The final stage is installation decorative finishes  on the facade of the house. Use for this purpose siding, lining, bricks or other building materials.

Warming of a wooden house from the outside: video instruction in 3 parts

The video shows in detail how the process of warming the wooden house is going, the sequential progress of the work with a note of important points.

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Well when the house is warm and comfortable, especially relevant it sounds for owners of private houses. The issue of house warming is often of interest to rural residents, most of them live in wooden structures.

If you start to tidy up an old wooden house, then it is necessary to take care of its warming. There are also new houses from the timber, which for various reasons were not insulated during construction and the owners are forced to solve this problem after the completion of the construction work. With the carrying out of thermal insulation, a natural question arises immediately, which material to use and how the wooden houses are warming.

Log houses

Wooden buildings are considered the most environmentally friendly, in summer they are not hot, and in winter it's warm, there is always a normal level of humidity. Such buildings require a special approach and knowledge of operation, so that they always live as comfortably as possible, and heat losses are minimized.

Most of the heat in wooden houses goes through the roof to about 40%, through the windows can go up to 35%, walls take about 10%, and floors 15%. As a result, it turns out that the heating of housing in the cold period of time takes a lot of money, and a comfortable temperature for the family does not exist.

Correctly selected means for performing heat insulation normalize the temperature regime in the dwelling, including in the wooden one. A wide range of insulation materials makes it possible to insulate the house from the outside and inside. Professionals recommend for greater efficiency to make a thermal insulation from the outside of the buildingto live comfortably in it throughout the year.

Material selection

The most suitable option for warming wooden houses can be called mineral wool, it has all the necessary qualities - light, perfectly holds heat and has an acceptable price. The lightness and elasticity of mineral wool also makes it easy to lay the material, it will not be affected by thermal deformation of the walls of the house, there will be no "cold bridges". After the mineral wool is warmed, the walls of the house outside should be sewn by the board, so that the building has a traditional appearance.

It is also possible to insulate the home using expanded polystyrene, but they are not recommended to insulate wooden houses, such a heater is suitable for brick and concrete buildings. The tree should breathe, and expanded polystyrene, despite its quality, poorly passes air. For this reason, condensation can accumulate, and this will lead to the formation of mold and fungus.

A good option for outdoor insulation of wooden houses will be ecowool. In the composition modern insulation  80% of cellulose and 20% of antiseptic substances are present. They help protect the structure from rodents and mold. Such material is suitable for insulation of any kind of buildings.

There are also options for warming wooden houses with fiberglass, expanded clay, basalt wool, sawdust-granules. Any of the selected materials should have the following characteristics:

1. The degree of vapor permeability of the insulation must be higher than that of wood or on one level.
2. Increased moisture resistance, to avoid further on the walls of the structure of mold or fungus.
3. Good refractory properties, this is especially important for wooden buildings.
4. Breathable ability. This property must necessarily be the selected material, otherwise the wooden walls of the house can not "breathe", and this will break the entire microclimate inside the building.
5. Loose structure of a heater. It will help to fit more closely to the walls and give a greater effect in the insulation of the home.

How to insulate wooden houses?

The process of warming wooden houses is gradual, first you need to determine the material, and then proceed to the vapor barrier at home. You can choose the material as:

1. Aluminum foil.
2. Special film-vapor barrier.
3. Ruberoid.
4. Polyethylene film.

Steam insulation will give ventilation to the facade of the building under the film, which is especially true for walls of wooden construction with a smooth board. On such a surface it is necessary to fill wooden slats with an approximate thickness of 2.5 cm at a distance of 1 meter from each other in an upright position. On the prepared and fixed rails, a layer of vapor barrier is packed. In the upper and lower parts it is necessary to make small holes for ventilation, a diameter of about 20 mm. This will not allow the accumulation of moisture under the film and maximize the life of the wooden structure. The vapor barrier is fixed with nails or staples, and also with an additional tape, so that moisture does not get into the fixing points in the future.

The second stage is the construction of the frame. For this work you need boards with a thickness of 40-50 mm and a width of 100 mm. Planks are stuffed vertically on an edge to a surface of a wall with distance which will be on pair centimeters less than thickness of a heater (plates of mineral cotton wool). For this work the board should not be thin, because it will then also be attached to the facing material.

The next step is laying the layer heat insulating material. It is best to lay mineral wool in two layers with a thickness of 50 mm. The plates of the heater are installed between the frame boards very tightly to each other so that there are no gaps between them. The middle part of the plates of the second layer of mineral wool should be located on the joints of the first layer of the insulation, so as not to create gaps. Despite the fact that the plates of mineral wool are elastic and semi-rigid, they can hold, not sliding on the frame without fastening. Better them for greater reliability fasten with metal or plastic anchors.

The last layer - waterproofing, which must be laid over the heater. Waterproofing film it should pass steam and do not retain moisture  on the wall and thermal insulation. Waterproofing film should be nailed tightly with nails or staples to the wooden frame. Joints make an overlap of approximately 5-10 cm, and also for a better sealing, glue them with a self-adhesive tape.

After finishing the installation of waterproofing, you can proceed to the outer lining of the walls of the house. The main stages of insulation are completed, and finishing material  will perform only a decorative function. What to choose for facing, will depend on the style of the structure and taste of the owners of the house, as well as their financial capabilities. Most often chosen for decorative cladding natural wood or plastic, but you need to take into account that the total thickness of the insulation can be from 15 to 25 cm. This will significantly deepen the windows of the old structure, so it is worth considering what they will be closed from the openings - platbands, siding, new window sills.

It is not easy to make insulation from the outside, it's easier to insulate the house from the inside. If you correctly carry out the external insulation of the walls of the house, it will help not only to avoid heat loss, the layer of thermal insulation will serve as protection from temperature changes, as well as from dampness and humidity. If possible it is necessary to tackle the foundation warming  structure. It is best to do this before the walls are warmed, pre-processing the foundation and then sew it with felt or jute paste. Before how to insulate walls  at home, it is desirable to treat them with an antiseptic. This will help to avoid the destruction of the house in the future.

Desirable to plow all the cracks in the walls of a wooden house, which can easily be detected in windless weather with a lighted candle, bringing it as close as possible to the wall surface. When the flame from the candle bends towards the wall, then there is a gap in this place. The presence of cracks can be seen in winter. In these places there will be frost in the period of heating the building. It is best to prune the cracks in warm and dry weather, using a pencil, hemp or jute.

A wooden house is a special structure, so it requires a special approach to itself. It can be compared to a living being, it settles in the spring and rises in the summer. Such a structure also needs to be insulated, like other types of buildings, but since the wooden house "breathes" it needs a heater that will help to let condensate through it. Competently executed thermal insulation can prolong the life of a wooden structure, it will always be warm and comfortable.

When building a private house, both the builder and the future owner of the cottage should pay great attention to the issue of thermal insulation and providing comfortable living conditions even in the coldest conditions. In full measure, this also applies to buildings made of log or timber. But while these cottages have their own specificity, due to the material from which they are built. Do not take it into account it is impossible - otherwise it will negatively affect the durability of the walls and the finishing of buildings from the log and beam. Therefore, it is necessary to decide how to insulate the wooden house from the outside and what is not so simple and it is necessary to approach this matter in detail.

Specificity of insulation of a wooden house

Carrying out the measures for the installation of thermal insulation in a house made of timber or log, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of wood as a material. There are many, but the main are two - high vapor permeability and exposure to fungus and other microorganisms.

The first means that wood absorbs well and passes moisture through itself both from the inside and outside. Accordingly, a heater for a house built of timber or log house must have comparable indicators of vapor permeability - otherwise the walls will gradually dampen, rot and become unusable. In addition, there is a need for a ventilation gap between the exterior trim and insulation - without it, the latter will absorb too much water and lose its thermal insulation qualities.

A second feature of wood, associated with the susceptibility of the material to the fungus and microorganisms, requires the mandatory treatment of all walls and parts of the thermal insulation system with antiseptic compositions, and in several layers.

Warming of a private house can be divided into two varieties.

1. Internal, when the layer of heat-insulating material is located on the side of residential premises and is closed with plasterboard, lining or any other finishing material.
2. Outdoor, when the thermal insulation is located on the walls from the side of the street. From the top, it is covered with a windproof film and exterior trim, which can be used as boards, siding, corrugated board, fake diamond  etc.

Internal insulation in wooden houses is usually used in the event that it becomes necessary to preserve the appearance of the building "under the tree". Usually this refers to the log cabins.

But at the same time such a system of thermal insulation has a number of drawbacks:

• decrease in the useful area of ​​living quarters;
• the non-optimal position of the dew point, leading to the appearance of dampness and condensation;
• gradual destruction of walls from the outside, caused by temperature changes.

Therefore, the preferred option is external insulation. Such a solution has the following advantages.

1. Saving of living space  - the layer of insulation and the frame under it is located outside, which means that you save a few square meters inside the house.
2. Dew point displacement beyond the walls of the house  - with good external thermal insulation  Through the entire thickness of the wall from the log or frame, the temperature will be above zero. Consequently, from the inside on the wall there will be no condensation, dampness will be less, and the service life of the structures - more.
3. Due to the displacement of the dew point and the use of vented facade technology significantly reduces the risk of mold and rot.
4. Walls made of lumber or logs can serve interior decoration  premises, there is a peculiar "texture" of a country cottage.

Due to these advantages, the article will focus on how to insulate the wooden house from outside and what materials are suitable for this.

General device for external insulation of a wooden house

From the point of view of ensuring high-quality thermal insulation and preventing the appearance of dampness / condensation on the wall and in the insulation, the most preferred way to protect the house from the cold is to arrange a ventilated facade. Regardless of the material used, the structure is a "layered cake" consisting of the following elements:

• the load-bearing wall of the house made of timber or logs;
• a skeleton under a heater, created from a bar or a metal profile;
• a layer of heat-insulating material and fasteners under it;
• windproof membrane film;
• crate for external finishing;
• exterior finishing of the house.

In this case, between the heater and the external finish of the wooden house, a ventilation gap is formed at the expense of the crate, with the help of which flags are effectively removed and the risk of condensation and dampness is reduced.

Important! Separately, we should pay attention to such a question as the presence of a vapor barrier film between a wooden wall and a heater. This film has long been the subject of controversy. Some masters claim that the vapor barrier between the wall and insulation is needed, otherwise the thermal insulation material will quickly damp because of the moisture coming from the house. Others hold the opposite opinion and say that the vapor barrier will break the drainage of moisture from the walls of the house, between it and the heater there will be condensation, and then mold. Given these two opinions, we can say that you can install a film to protect the thermal insulation material from damp, but only if there is good ventilation in the house and a gap between the vapor barrier and the wooden wall.

You can get acquainted with the materials used to insulate the wooden house from the outside, from the table below and in the subsequent sections of the article.

Table. Warming of the wooden house from the outside - the main materials.

Material name	Short description
	Rolls and slabs of fine fibers of basalt and other minerals.
	Braced in plates rounded porous cells of expanded polystyrene.
	A variety of expanded polystyrene, manufactured by a slightly different technology. It is characterized by a higher density and better thermal insulation properties.
	Paper and fabric, processed into cellulose, with additives that prevent caking, rotting and the appearance of rodents.

What material to choose for outdoor insulation of a house made of wood

Before proceeding with the warming of the wooden house, it is necessary to decide what to do exactly, that is, with what material. Available to most options you can see in the table from the previous section. These are mineral wool, polystyrene, extruded polystyrene and ecowool. Let's take a closer look at them.

Mineral wool is a collection of many fibers obtained from melts of various rocks. As in cellulose wool, between the fibers there is a large amount of air, due to which the material also acquires its heat-insulating qualities.

In favor of mineral wool as a heater for a wooden house, its following advantages are spoken:

• simplicity of installation;
• availability;
• non-adherence to burning - mineral wool melts only at very high temperature;
• water vapor permeability at wood level;
• excellent heat and sound insulation.

But it is worth considering that mineral wool absorbs moisture well and at the same time loses its thermal insulation properties. Because outside the heater must be protected by a membrane windproof film.

Other options for insulation for a wooden house are foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Both are polymers consisting of cells glued together with a plurality of pores and voids. The latter, filled with air, and provide the material with high thermal insulation qualities. Extruded polystyrene foam is manufactured using a slightly different technology than conventional polystyrene, due to which the material is denser and its cells smaller. The material itself becomes stronger, but also retains its thermal insulation qualities.

Thermal insulation foam - not the best option  for a wooden house, but many resort to this decision because of the cheapness of thermal insulation material

However, both foam and extruded polystyrene have a serious drawback, because of which their use as a heater for a wooden house is doubtful - this is a low vapor permeability. Moisture and water vapor through these materials penetrate very poorly. Therefore, if a wooden house is insulated by a foam plastic, a moist environment, favorable for the development of fungi, other microorganisms and, as a consequence, for decay and damage of wood, will necessarily arise between the wall and the layer of thermal insulation.

According to environmentalists, up to 40% of heat and electricity produced in the northern hemisphere is spent on heating residential, industrial and other facilities. For this reason, quality insulation of buildings brings tangible benefits in terms of saving finances and the comfort of living. One of the most popular heat insulators is (expanded polystyrene, PPP).

Another version of insulation - ecowool. This material is obtained from paper and textile waste, converted into cellulose. But it is supplemented with additives that protect the material from caking, rotting, burning and make it unattractive to insects and rodents. It has excellent heat-insulating qualities. But the way of its laying differs from mineral wool and foam plastic - eco-wool in liquid form is sprayed onto the surface of wooden walls  between the elements of the crate by means of special equipment. Then the material sets, dries and becomes a very strong layer of thermal insulation. However, one must understand that without the help of a specialist, the insulation of the ecowool will not be possible.

Now that you know more about the materials used for the thermal insulation of cottages from logs or logs, we will begin to describe how the insulation process should be carried out.

Video - Warming the walls of the house outside

Warming of a wooden house outside with mineral wool

Consider how to perform one of the most popular ways to insulate a wooden house from the outside - with the help of mineral wool plates.

Calculation of the amount of insulation

Work begins with the calculation of the required amount of insulation. To do this, calculate how many square meters of the house in the surfaces to be covered with mineral wool. This problem is solved using the following algorithm.

Step 1.  Calculate the height of the walls from the basement to the beginning of the pediment. If one part of the house is one- and the second-two-storey, calculate for them separately.

Step 2.  Determine the perimeter of the walls by calculating their length.

Step 3.  Multiply the perimeter of the walls by the height and subtract the area of ​​the openings from the resulting figure - this will give you an approximate surface area to be insulated. But this is not the end of the calculations.

Step 4.  Using the formulas for determining the area of ​​the triangle, calculate how many square meters in your pediments (if you intend to insulate them), and sum the resulting figure with the result of calculations from the previous step.

The definition of the wall area, a simple pediment in the form of an isosceles triangle and a pediment of complex shape (which is the sum of a trapezoid and a triangle)

Step 5.  Determine the mineral wool of what brand and size you choose. Divide the total area of ​​insulation by the area of ​​each individual insulation plate. Then increase the result by 10-15% for the reserve. The figure you obtained is the number of mineral wool slabs that will be needed for one layer of external insulation of a wooden house. In this case, take into account that in one package is sold several panels of insulation and, as a rule, they are written on how many square meters this pack is calculated.

Mineral wool Rockwool Light Batts. In one such bundle there are six plates 50 mm thick and dimensions 600х800 mm. Their total area is 2.88 square meters.

Step 6.  Determine how thick the insulation should be. As a rule, in the southern regions it is 50 mm, in the middle band - 100 mm, in Siberia and northern latitudes - 150 mm. If in one layer it is impossible to perform warming in your case - increase the number of plates of mineral wool from the previous operation by two times.

List of tools

First of all, you will need something, with which you can cut and saw the materials for the crate. If the skeleton under the heater is to be made of wood, this task will perfectly cope electric jig saw  with the appropriate blade. But in the case when the crate is made of a metal profile, it is better to give preference scissors for metal.

Important! The use of a grinder to cut the profile on the skeleton under the heater is permissible, but it is undesirable - in the process of such sawing the external anticorrosive coating is damaged, which significantly reduces the service life of the future structure.

Next, you will need a tool for twisting in wood or metal screws. Given that the work on insulation is carried out with a house of logs or logs, this task will be sufficient only screwdriver and set of attachments. Choose a tool with a battery - the wire will not dangle under your feet and interfere.

Advice! Experienced masters use a screwdriver with two batteries. While one is working, the other is charging. Then they change places, and the person gets the opportunity to make the installation of the battens for the heater without stopping and wasting time.

To fit some wooden elements in the battens or to work with dowels, you will need hammer or rubber kitten.

One of the indispensable tools for construction work is a knife for cutting mineral wool. You will need it to open packages with mineral wool and to cut slabs of this material. As an option - you can use a construction knife with a sliding blade.

Securing the windproof membrane film on the laths of the insulation requires a construction stapler and a set of staples.

The lining under the heater must be as straight as possible horizontally and vertically. On the eyes of this is almost impossible to achieve, so be sure to use construction level and plumb line.

The very wall of a house made of lumber or logs and all the wooden elements of the battens require the mandatory application of several layers of antiseptic that protects the materials from decay. To do this you will need capacity and roller. But if you want to do everything quickly - use paint spray gun.

As before, and during the work on the warming of the wooden house, the master may have a need to apply various marks, measure distances and create records. These tasks are successfully performed with the help of a pencil, several sheets of paper (or one notebook), a tape measure and a carpenter's square.

Laying of mineral wool on a frame made of wood

Consider first the most common option, when mineral wool is stacked between the elements of the crate from the wooden beam.

Step 1.  Prepare the walls - remove from their surface all the protruding elements, if any. This can be shutters, low tide, decorative details, etc. Then, treat the wall with antiseptic and fire retardant, preferably 2-3 times. Apply a new layer only after the previous one has dried completely.

Important! When working with a log house, pay special attention to the processing of corners and the end parts of logs - they are the ones most exposed to fungi and other microorganisms.

Step 2.  Make the crate. For it, take the highest quality bar, in this case, products with a section of 30x30 mm are used. Wood should not have traces of fungus or rot. First install the upper and lower bars, fix them with galvanized screws (use of others is undesirable due to corrosion). Then install the horizontal elements of the crate, between which the mineral wool of the first layer will be laid. The interval between the beams should be approximately 5 mm less than the height of the insulation plate - this is necessary for more tightening the material and avoiding gaps.

Step 3.  Over the first "layer" of the crate, fix the second one, where the elements are perpendicular. In this case, they are mounted vertically. Also do not forget to fix the bars along the perimeter of the window and door openings.

Step 4. Unpack and prepare the plates of mineral wool. If necessary cut them into pieces to be installed around the openings and to other places where full-sized insulation elements do not fit. Install the plates between the elements of the crate of the first layer, make sure that they hold tightly there. Fix them with plate dowels. Then, by the same principle, lay the plates of the second layer of insulation. It is desirable that they overlap the horizontal seams between the sheets of mineral wool of the previous layer.

Step 5.  On top of the heater, lay and secure the windproof diaphragm. Separate its segments between each other with overlapping about 10 cm (as a rule, on the film for this is marked with a special marking). To the crate, attach the membrane with a construction stapler, and seal the joints with a special adhesive tape. Particular attention when working with a windproof film, allow the openings, which also need to be covered.

Step 6.  On top of the windproof film on the wooden elements of the laths of the heater, fix the thick laths, on which the outer finish of the house will be kept.

Step 7.  On the mounted rails, lay the exterior trim. In this case, boards are used for this. Then install other protruding elements, such as window and rain gaps, shutters, slopes, decorative details and much more.

Laying of mineral wool on brackets

Now consider another version of the external insulation of the house. Here, the mineral wool is fixed not to the crate, but to metal brackets.

Step 1.  Prepare the walls - treat them with antiseptic and fire retardant. Then unpack the mounting brackets and calculate how much you need.

Step 2.  Secure the metal brackets to the wall using two long roofing screws with press washers. Since later the house will be finished with siding, the fastening elements are arranged in steps corresponding to the interval between the elements of the crate under the vinyl panels.

Important! To ensure the best sound and heat insulation, place under the part of the brackets that touch the wood, small pieces of paronite.

Step 3.  Unpack the mineral wool, check the quality of the insulation and prepare it for installation.

Step 4.  Install the mineral wool plates on the walls. To do this, put them on the brackets, mounted in the previous stages of work. Holes for this can either be pierced by the fasteners themselves, or cut through with a knife.

Step 5.  For better fixing, tighten evenly over the area of ​​each individual plate the dowels.

Step 6.  Repeat the previous two operations for all the walls and gables of the house.

Step 7.  On top of the insulation layer, lay the windproof film. Fix it with overlapping plate bolts.

Step 8.  With a knife or scissors cut through the windproof film slotted holes through which the ends of the brackets should pass.

Step 9.  Prepare, cut and fasten the brackets with self-tapping screws, vertical and horizontal elements of the crate from the metal profile. It is very important to achieve the smoothness of each individual stand or beam, using a plumb and the building level.

Step 10.  Install the exterior trim on the crate, equipped with the previous operation. In this case, it's a vinyl siding panel.

With a competent approach to the matter, external insulation of a wooden house will ensure your coziness and comfort of living in a new place.