Bearing skeleton is the "skeleton" of any house. What it consists of, how it works and what kinds of bearing cores of the private house exist, will be told in this article.
What is the core of the house?
Bearing skeleton is a collection constructive elements (walls, columns, foundations, beams, ceilings) integrated into a single system that provides strength, rigidity and sustainability at home. Strength bearing core is the ability to resist the forces acting on it (the weight of structures, people, wind, snow, furniture, etc.) without breaking down and not receiving critical deflections and deformations. Rigidity of the bearing core - the ability not to change the shape of the skeleton under the influence of such loads, and sustainability is the resistance to rollover or shear. The house must be designed in such a way that, under the action of the loads, none of these qualities is lost. Note that each design performs its own function (the stairs report floors, the walls are protected from the street and perceive loads from overlaps, etc.), sometimes not one, but in the structure of the bearing skeleton they are all interconnected and operate as a single "skeleton" of the house, that is, the work of the structures is considered in the complex.
The need to use a particular type of load-bearing skeleton at home is due to:
- Functional factor (depending on the purpose of the premises and the whole house, for example, you want to get a house with a free layout, a lot of unlimited space, for this it is better to use a skeleton frame, and for a standard cottage with a lot of rooms a frameless frame with walls delimitation will fit);
- Architectural factor (thanks to different types of bearing skeleton, the house can be given architectural expressiveness.) For example, a cottage in the style of "high tech" is better and easier to perform in a skeleton skeleton frame, and a house in "Russian style" in frameless);
- Technical and economic factor (during the design it is possible to calculate the cost and terms of construction with of different kinds bearing skeletons, based on the received data, make the final decision);
- In addition, the choice depends on what you want the house (material and construction of walls) from. For example, if you decide to build a house with a frameless bearing frame, then the wall of the foam block without additional constructive solutions (monolithic belts, reinforcement by grids) is impossible.
At the initial stage of designing a cottage it is very important for the architect and designer to determine that in this case it will act as a supporting skeleton, what structures will be its components, how they will be connected, how they will resist the action of loads. Competent combination in your home of all wishes: planning, architectural style, ergonomics of the house, compliance modern technologies and the requirements of rigidity, strength and stability and is the main task for the "architect-designer" tandem. The architect in this case will tell and show how your house will be, and the designer will show how to implement this idea and what supporting frame (maybe several options) is applicable in this case.
Types of Bearing Skeleton
At this stage of the construction of private houses, there are 3 types of bearing skeletons:
- Frameless (wall) bearing frame;
- Skeleton carrying frame;
- Combined supporting frame (incomplete frame).
Descriptions, disadvantages and advantages of each species will be described below.
Frameless (wall) bearing frame
This is the most common type in cottage construction. The simplest type of construction of private houses and therefore it is used in the construction of cottages and private houses everywhere. In this case, the supporting skeleton is formed from massive longitudinal and transverse walls connected with the foundation, overlapping (beams or slabs, details of the ceilings in the article) laid on the walls, stairs (they give rigidity to the skeleton along the vertical and horizontal. is presented in the form of a rigid and stable box consisting of bound walls and ceilings.The lower part of the walls is usually more massive than the walls of the upper floors, due to the fact that it must perceive the weight of overlying
floors and walls. For example, the ground floor of the cottage can be made of ceramic brick with a thickness of 510 mm, and the second floor can have thinner walls of 380 mm. Thus, the walls must fulfill the role of supporting structure and heat-insulating-fencing.
The walls in this type of skeleton can be made of bricks, reinforced concrete blocks, blocks of lightweight concrete, natural stone, wood, etc. The thickness of the bearing walls, depending on the material, can be from 250 mm to 700 mm. Thickness of curtain walls and partitions from 100mm. Overlap plates are usually prefabricated or monolithic, with a thickness of 150 mm.
Frameless bearing frame can be of the following types:
- with longitudinal bearing walls
In this case, the base of the skeleton is the bearing walls, which are located along the long side of the private house, the ceilings are laid across the house (that is, perpendicular to the walls). Stability and rigidity of such buildings is provided by staircases, end and transverse walls, overlapping serve as a rigid horizontal diaphragm. The pitch of the longitudinal walls in such houses is usually equal to the length of the slab (4.2 m, 5.4 m, 6 m). This type of skeleton is used in houses with an elongated shape.
- with transverse bearing walls
Bearing walls are located along the smaller side of the house and the floors are laid on them. Walls along the long side of the house can be made not bearing or self-supporting (walls capable of withstanding the load only from their weight), but they must have thermal insulation properties and protect from outdoor temperatures. The skeleton with transverse bearing walls has, in comparison with the supporting skeleton with longitudinal bearing walls, greater lateral stiffness and stability. The drawback of this constructive system is connected with the inability to vary the width of living quarters, which is once and for all limited by transverse bearing walls.
- with longitudinal and transverse bearing walls
This scheme is a combination of longitudinal and transverse bearing walls, overlapping fit in the longitudinal and transverse directions. Such schemes are applicable for cottages in which the architectural form is difficult to solve with only longitudinal or only transverse bearing walls. That is, when the cottage has an unusual shape in terms of and it is difficult to solve the space only by longitudinal or only transverse walls.
Rigidity and stability of the bearing skeleton in such houses is ensured due to the interconnection of walls and ceilings, stair flights (in the event that a flight of stairs is made of monolithic reinforced concrete or metal and rigidly connected with the bearing elements of the core).
Skeleton carrying frame
Skeleton buildings until recently were an attribute of industrial construction, but now such a bearing frame has increasingly become used in private construction.
Frame load-bearing frame is a connected in a single system of columns, crossbars, floors, stairs, foundations. Columns of the frame are placed both on the perimeter and inside the house, they are laid with crossbars (beams), which support the slabs. Rigidity and stability of such houses are attached to the diaphragm of rigidity (reinforced concrete walls), overlaps associated with the columns, stairs. They perceive the horizontal and vertical loads acting on the house. The walls are made of self-supporting or hinged (attached to the outer columns of the frame) and perform fencing and heat insulation functions. Thus, saving of materials is achieved: the load-bearing structures have the thickness required by the design calculation, and the enveloping structures calculated according to the thermal engineering calculation are the thickness. The pitch of columns and crossbars in such houses is usually from 3 to 7 m. The thickness of the columns is from 200 * 200 mm to 500 * 500 mm, the thickness of the ceiling is from 150 mm.
This kind of skeleton is applicable:
- In houses with free planning (generally without partitions). Floor plans may differ, due to the fact that the entire load is taken over by the frame, and internal walls serve only to solve architectural volumes;
- For the construction of houses in seismic regions (Crimea, Carpathians);
- If the architecture of the house is set to a large (5-6 m) distance between the columns or a complex form of overlap (there is no possibility to lay prefabricated slabs or difficult to lay masonry).
The frame of the private house can be made of concrete structures manufactured in the factory, are mainly structures for civil engineering, they have certain dimensions, the step of the columns, the size of the sections and they are difficult to apply for private construction. For example, the standard step of the columns in civil construction is 6-9 meters, it is hardly needed in a private house, where the step of the column will not exceed 4-5 meters. Basically, such a frame is made of monolithic reinforced concrete of class B15-B30. The pitch of the columns, the height of the floors, the floors are chosen depending on the architecture of the house and there is no need to "adjust" to typical products. The house in this case is a reinforced concrete monolithic frame and self-supporting walls of light concrete or natural stone (shell rock).
For frame type buildings, the following schemes can be used:
- Rigelnaya (the ceilings are supported by bolts, which are laid on columns.Rigel usually height 200-400 mm, due to their height, the useful height of the floor disappears, so this scheme is ineffective in private construction);
- Bezrigelnaya (it is usually used in cottages with original layout solutions of plans, there are no crossbars in such houses, overlapping is perceived by the whole load and transferred to columns), due to this the thickness of the ceiling increases to 200-250 mm.
As you can see from the name, the frame is a joint model of frame and frameless type. In this case, bearing structures are pillars and bolts (located inside) and massive walls (which are on the perimeter). The ceilings are supported by one end on the walls, the other on the crossbar (beams). Thus, the walls perform a load-bearing and heat-shielding function. The columns, in turn, carry only vertical loads. Usually in private houses up to three floors, the columns are made of ceramic brick reinforced with reinforcing mesh or reinforced concrete. Stability and rigidity of the house is provided by walls of rigidity (walls made of reinforced concrete or brick, are located along or across the house), stairs (as well as in frameless skeleton) and overlapping connected with walls and columns.
This kind of skeleton is applicable:
- If you want to rationally use the area, but there is a need for massive walls around the perimeter of the house to provide thermal insulation;
- In houses with the use of the technology of "non-removable foam plastic formwork".
Combined supporting frame allows you to effectively use the area of the cottage and share the living space as you want. For example, on the first floor of the house you decided to make a spacious hall and a large living room, and on the second bedroom and study room with a combined carrier skeleton, you can easily solve this layout. Plates of overlap can be used prefabricated reinforced concrete or monolithic. Material for such types of buildings can be reinforced concrete, brick, ceramic blocks, wood, etc. The dimensions of the columns from 200 * 200 mm to 500 * 500 mm, the thickness of the bearing walls from 380 mm, the thickness of the ceiling from 150 mm (monolithic overlap) or 220 mm (prefabricated plate).
Examples of construction of a bearing core
Now for a few examples I'll show you how to make a choice for your future home. I will put the condition in the form of several phrases describing the house and then give a diagram of the bearing skeleton for the implementation of such a scheme.
Condition number 1. The future house should have massive walls of clay rubbish, which will protect it from the temperature effects and give the appearance of an "English house". The foundations must be monolithic, since I know the technology of their construction and I will easily calculate the costs.
Carrier core variants
The simplest and most reliable carrying skeleton for such a house will be frameless skeleton with transverse and longitudinal walls. The walls will serve constructively (to carry the load) and decoratively (to impart the desired stylistics .With such walls it is easy and economical to arrange band foundation, which meets the second requirement.
Itself suggests a supporting frame in the form monolithic skeleton skeleton , with the help of such a constructive scheme it is easy to carry out flat roof and give the owner of the house the opportunity to use it. A clear (rectangular or square) grid of columns and crossbars will enable the master to execute it in the given style.
- Condition number 3. It is necessary to create a house project for 2 families. The house will be located along the street and have 2 separate entrances. The material of the walls is brick or foam concrete.
For this type of house is well suited frame-free bearing frame with longitudinal bearing walls made of bricks. Plates of overlap will be laid on the bearing walls. The stiffness of the house will give a ladder march.
- Condition No. 4. On the first floor you need to create a lot of free space, without walls and partitions. Ceilings are made monolithic due to the impossibility of using prefabricated slabs.
As described above, you can apply combined supporting frame. The role of load-bearing structures will be performed by monolithic reinforced concrete columns (in the middle of the house) and the capital walls (along its perimeter). Columns are easy to connect with monolithic overlapping and walls, thus ensuring the rigidity and stability of the building.
Thus, each type of supporting skeleton gives its positive and negative features. When choosing it at the very beginning of the project, it is necessary to clearly understand the house of what type and with what parameters you want to get in the end.
Probably residents of apartment buildings are a little envious of those who live outside the city in a private structure. Own living space, garden, clean air - a dream of anyone. Alas, not everything is so simple, because the severe Russian winters force to carefully insulate the house in order to avoid its freezing. This implies impressive investments and constant monitoring of the state of the thermal insulation material, which makes the residents of the city houses free.
Warming the house is preferable to using a dozen heating devices - You can save money, as well as make the home cozier. It is known that there are two ways to insulate the private structure - from the outside and from the inside. Experienced experts recommend using both, but it is first of all necessary to take care of the external insulation. About what material is best suited for those or other houses - further.
Requirements for heat-insulating material
The consumer is not threatened with a long search for good products - the market is saturated with goods from different manufacturers, so in any construction store you can choose a decent insulation. However, before buying, you need to analyze the material in question by its physical and chemical properties. These include:
- coefficient of thermal conductivity (characterizes the ability of a heater to hold or hold air, the lower the better, do not have to use a thick layer of material);
- coefficient of moisture absorption (indicates the ability of the material to absorb water as a percentage of the mass, the higher the value, the less durable the heater);
- density (based on the value, you can determine how much the material will weight the house);
- resistance to fire (there are 4 classes of flammability, most preferable is the first (G1), which ceases to burn without an open source of fire);
- environmental friendliness (not the most important indicator for consumers, and in vain - to preserve the health of family members should choose only natural material from natural components that does not emit impurities into the atmosphere and does not contain synthetic elements);
- durability (the manufacturer's service life of the heater);
- hygroscopicity (the ability to absorb steam from the air);
- resistance to pests (insects, rodents, birds);
- soundproofing properties;
- convenience of installation (insulation must be fixed quickly, with a minimum set of tools, and with it must be made a minimum amount additional work like cutting in straight pieces).
It is difficult to choose a material that possesses all desirable qualities. For this reason, it is possible and necessary to carry out insulation from the outside and inside.
Advantages of external thermal insulation
The question of the insulation of a private house from the outside comes in two cases - at the design stage of construction or when buying a finished house, but not possessing a worthy thermal insulation. The second situation is more common. What are the advantages of warming the dwelling from the outside? They include:
- reduction of wall deformability due to additional protection;
- the facade perceives sharp temperature fluctuations; as a result, the life of the structure will last;
- freedom in choosing the design of the facade, even when the structure is erected;
- the area of the internal premises remains unchanged; this allows you to carry out any decorating, and the living conditions will remain the same.
Ways of exterior insulation at home
The necessity and advantages of thermal insulation are evident from the outside; now the consumer should familiarize himself with the methods of insulation. There are three such:
- "Well" arrangement of the material;
- "Wet" insulation with gluing;
- ventilated facade.
In the first case, the heater is placed inside the walls (for example, between the layers of bricks). It turns out that he is "locked" among the two levels. The method is effective, but it is impossible to realize it for an already constructed house.
In the second case, the insulation layer is fixed to the glue outside the walls, then it is additionally attached to the dowels. Above are applied several types of coatings - reinforcing, intermediate, decorative (finishing). A good way, only requires the intervention of specialists; with their own hands to perform wet isolation of the walls is impossible without experience.
The ventilated facade resembles a "well" masonry, only the outer layer is the facing material - plasterboard, tile, siding, etc. In addition, it is necessary to build a frame system for fixing the sheets of the heat insulator.
The latter method is the most popular, widespread and profitable. It will cost much less than "wet" insulation; in addition, even a beginner will be able to do the work themselves. Now the consumer faces the most difficult choice.
Existing materials can be divided into two large groups - organic (natural origin) and inorganic (obtained using special materials and equipment).
Kinds and advantages of inorganic heaters
The first place on the list belongs to the most popular material - mineral wool. It can be of three types - stone (basalt), glass and slag. Different from each other only externally, the varieties of minvat have the following qualities:
- low coefficient of thermal conductivity (0.03 - 0, 045);
- variations in density (from 20 to 200 kg / m3);
- excellent noise insulation properties;
- vapor permeability (the mineral wool can "breathe");
- resistance to fire.
There are also a number of shortcomings, among which:
- attractiveness for rodents and insectoids;
- deterioration of thermal insulation characteristics by 50% when wetting only 3-5% of the volume;
- completely never dries.
In general, mineral wool is good, but it is extremely undesirable to use it for skinning the house from the outside.
The second known outdoor insulation is foam. His advantages:
- coefficient of conductivity of heat is slightly lower than that of mineral wool (0,03 - 0,037);
- is cheaper than other heaters;
- light;
- density from 11 to 40 kg / m3.
- fragility;
- release of toxic substances in case of fire;
- does not "breathe", which forces the tenants to build additional supply and exhaust ventilation;
- with direct wetting absorbs moisture, becoming unsuitable for use.
Extruded polystyrene foam is not inferior to the thermal conductivity of mineral wool and foam. In addition, he:
- does not absorb moisture;
- it is convenient for installation, for it is produced by slabs;
- stronger than polystyrene;
- almost does not pass air.
Disadvantages:
- it is easily ignited;
- during combustion emits harmful substances.
There is another type of raw material used for external thermal insulation walls of the house - "warm" plasters. They are a mixture of balls (formed by glass, cement and hydrophobic additives). "Breathe", isolating the room from moisture, do not burn, are not afraid of sunlight, are easily repairable. Not very common in the market, however, experienced consumers have already appreciated this heater.
Varieties and advantages of organic materials
Those who want to feel maximum closeness to nature, it is recommended to use raw materials from natural ingredients. These include:
- cork insulation - have a coefficient of thermal insulation 0.045 - 0.06; are the crushed bark of a tree, pressed by hot steam and resin as a binder; easily cut, "breathe", do not form mold, are non-toxic; today they are increasingly used to insulate walls from the outside);
- cellulose wool (ecowool) - thermal conductivity from 0.032 to 0.038; are pulverized cellulose, to improve the fire-fighting properties treated with flame retardants; properties are reminiscent of cork, but better absorb liquid; Do not withstand heavy loads and are not suitable for wall sheathing;
- hemp - supplied with plates, rolls, mats based on hemp fibers; Poorly holds the load, although it is sufficiently dense (20-60 kg / m3);
- straw - an old way of heat insulation of the walls of the house; breathable material treated with flame retardants to reduce flammability; today it is practically not used;
- algae - an exotic method of skinning the outer walls; density up to 80 kg / m3, do not burn, do not rot, do not cause interest in rodents, are resistant to mold and fungus. Better suitable for light walls.
Preferred insulation for the skin of the house
Each material has pros and cons. Based on the above information, you can make a symbolic rating of the most high-quality materials for the walls of the house (the first - the most preferable, etc.). It is also worth considering the appearance of the facade.
For ventilated systems better suited cotton wool - mineral, cellulose. In wells, preference is given to the material that does not allow moisture. This is extruded polystyrene foam. The plastering of walls is perfectly combined with a heater, whose density is more than 30 kg / m3. For example, with mineral wool, PPP, foam, any organic material.
For light walls of a wooden house, breathing material - mineral wool, hemp, eco-wool, cork insulation is better suited. The first is preferable, but it costs a little more.
The country house should be high-quality sheathed by reliable material. The consumer can choose any of the previously considered ones, guided by his wishes or financial possibilities. A competent approach to the purchase of insulation - a pledge of a long service to a cozy home.
Owners of private homes often ask themselves the question, what is the most effective insulation of the walls from the outside. Which is better to choose a heater so that the load-bearing wall structures do not spend the cold in winter and repel the heat in the hot summer. Many modern thermal insulation materials not only prevent heat loss during the cold season, but also protect the room in the summer from the penetration of thermal radiation. The issue of thermal insulation of your home must be approached with all seriousness. On how good you make a heat insulation system for your home, depends how comfortable and cozy the house will be for its residents.
External wall insulation
Thermal insulation materials, types and characteristics
Previously, for insulation of the building structure used organic insulation in the form of sawdust, peat, etc. A significant drawback of these materials was flammability, high moisture absorption, susceptibility to putrefaction and mold formation.
At the moment, organic insulation for home insulation is practically not used. Now the construction market offers a wide range of synthetic thermal insulation materials that have the best technical characteristics.
Styrofoam, its advantages and disadvantages
Most people, deciding the question, than to insulate the house from the outside, prefer polystyrene foam. This popularity of this insulation is due to its low cost and excellent performance.
Especially worth noting are the advantages of expanded polystyrene:
- lower, in comparison with mineral wool heaters, thermal conductivity (this allows the thickness of the insulation layer to be made smaller);
- affordable price (expanded polystyrene is cheaper mineral wool);
- ease of installation (this material is easy to process).
The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene can be called: less vapor permeability, in comparison with mineral wool heaters, and higher combustibility.
Styrofoam in spite of some of its drawbacks, is widely used for insulation of facades. The use of this material for the thermal insulation of the building costs three to four times less than the use of another insulation, in particular mineral wool.
Important! Due to low vapor permeability, EPS is not recommended for insulation wooden houses. The only area of its application is the warming of stone facades.
Styrofoam is very effective for warming brick houses. Foam polystyrene insulation with a thickness of only 80 mm makes it possible to reduce fuel consumption four times in the cold season.
Phnofolgirovannym warming material
Quite an interesting modern insulation is a pnofolgirovanny heater. It is a layer of polyethylene foam, which is clamped on both sides with aluminum foil. Features of this material is low weight and low thermal conductivity (the thermal conductivity of this heater is 1.5 times less than that of basalt heaters).
The merits of this material can be attributed to the simplicity of installation, the heater is attached to the walls by a construction stapler. Of the disadvantages is worth noting the absolute vapor and gas tightness.
Insulated cork
Such a rather exotic insulation, like a pressed cork, is made from the bark of cork oak growing in the Mediterranean. This insulation is produced in rolls and plates, it has a very attractive appearance, it is environmentally friendly material. Pressed plug is used for internal insulation walls, this material, thanks to its excellent appearance and functions decorative finishes. For external insulation of facades, you can also use cork slabs.
Mineral wool on a stone basis
A distinctive feature of mineral wool fibers is its ability, without melting, to withstand a temperature of more than 1000 °. Due to this, mineral wool prevents the spread of fire, and protects from the inflammation of the construction of houses built from combustible materials (for example, wooden houses). Heaters with high water absorption rates lose their thermal insulation properties, since water, falling into heat-insulating material, fills the air pores, and increases the thermal conductivity of the insulation. Mineral cotton wool practically does not absorb moisture, so it remains dry and retains the properties of low thermal conductivity, even if moisture gets on its surface.
The numerous advantages of mineral wool also include high resistance to mechanical stress.
Thermal insulation materials made of fiberglass
To insulate the house from the outside you can use fiberglass materials. The main components used for the manufacture of fiberglass are cullet, sand, dolomite, limestone, soda, ethybor, etc. Raw material for fiberglass melts in the melting furnace at 1400 ° and is fed to the forward furnace, where the fiber-forming step takes place. On centrifuges the molten glass breaks down into 6 microns thick fibers. After that, the products obtained are impregnated with a polymer resin and fed to the conveyor, where it is formed into mats. From the mats, evaporate the remaining water and get a high-quality insulation.
Fiberglass materials have the best quality for thermal insulation of building facades, which include:
- Fire safety.
- Economical in transportation.
- Ease of installation.
- Low coefficient of thermal conductivity (from 0.035 to 0.044 W / mK), thanks to the ability of glass fibers to hold air tightly, and, consequently, excellent thermal insulation properties. Thermal insulation of fiberglass can reliably protect in winter from cold, and in summer - from heat.
- Resistance to moisture. Due to its non-hygroscopicity (glass wool does not absorb water), the heat-insulating properties do not deteriorate when the material gets wet.
- Ecological compatibility. The insulation made of fiberglass does not emit harmful substances and is safe for health, it does not form mold and rot.
Glass wool - effective insulation
What is better for thermal insulation of walls outside: mineral wool or polystyrene foam
Mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are the most requested insulation for the thermal insulation of the walls from the outside. Installation of mineral wool slabs is similar to the technology of laying expanded polystyrene, in addition, these two heaters have similar specifications, so when they decide what is better to insulate the house from the outside, first of all, compare these two heaters.
When they want to cheaply conduct the insulation of the walls from the outside, in most cases choose polystyrene plates. This material is not only cheaper than mineral wool itself, but its laying does not require special skills or complicated tools, almost every owner can perform the installation of thermal insulation with the help of foam plates. But in the case of cheap foam plastic insulation of the walls from the outside, one should not discount that this material has a small mechanical strength. In addition, polystyrene is very fond of gnawing rats and mice.
For insulation of facades, manufacturers produce special types of vapor-permeable foam with a densified outer layer. But the cost of such material is not less than the cost of mineral wool.
Such insulation, as extruded polystyrene foam, is not suitable for insulation of walls from the outside, since it has zero vapor permeability. Using it for the insulation of facades leads to the dampening of the material from which the walls are erected. From the moisture on the surface of the walls appears mold and fungi. In the market you can buy permeable perforated extruded polystyrene foam, intended for outdoor insulation of facades. But their price is not less than the cost of mineral wool heaters.
When using expanded polystyrene for exterior wall insulation, it is better to purchase a material with atypyrene, these are special substances that prevent the burning of the material. Polyfoam with fire retardant gets fireproof properties.
Mineral wool is not flammable, well resists to mechanical influences has sufficient vapor permeability, therefore, for external wall insulation it is more preferable, but with the right device thermal insulation system, will not be bad to cope with their functions and foam plates.
Instructions
One of the most commonly used technologies for warming walls in its house is the use of ordinary foam. You can heal with it in two ways. First - glue the material with mounting glue. This option is ideal for uneven surfaces, as it helps to align them. The second is the fixing of the foam plastic with special dowels. This option is used only on smooth and flat planes.
If you decide to choose the first option, then go to the store for glue. It should be taken at a rate of 25 kg per 20 square meters. m plane. . Prepare the surface before starting work. To do this, primed it with a material of deep penetration. Allow to dry - it takes you 2 hours.
Glue dilute the water according to the instructions. Pull the special construction cord vertically and horizontally. So you need to measure the distance equal to the thickness of the foam. Begin to install the insulation material. On the foamed plastic sheet, spread the glue in five points - 4 at the edges, one in the middle. The size of these glue pillows should be equal to the space that will remain between the foam and the wall of the house. It can be measured by stretched thread. Foam the lead by the thread and, gently pushing it, attach it to the wall. In the same way, glue the other sheets of material. The main thing is to keep an eye on the joints - there should not be any slots in them. Work from the calculation of one wall - one day. It is necessary that the material is better attached to the surface and it was clear where to fix things.
The second option assumes that you will place tags along the entire wall, screw the guides along them. Then take a sheet of polystyrene and using dowels, carefully screw it into these guides. Just do not be too zealous. Otherwise, you risk getting holes in foam plastic , or it will crack.
You can insulate walls and thus. Attach the guides to the wall, lay the insulating material between them. It will keep warm in your house and besides protect from unnecessary noise. From the top it needs to be fixed with a chipboard sheet. Carefully place it on the guides and screw it with dowels. Now it remains only to do the finishing work.
note
Before you begin to warm the walls in a private house, you should definitely draw hoods in the kitchen and in the bathroom, as well as in the toilet. This is necessary in order to ensure good ventilation of the air in the room. It turns out that when the walls are not yet insulated, the humidity in the house is regulated through the walls. Moisture penetrates through the walls and goes outside, when the walls are insulated with foam, they will also be vapor-insulated. Therefore, moist air will accumulate in the room.