Plaster of corners, their diagnostics and ways of alignment, preparation for work and processing technology different types of docking of walls.
The content of the article:
Plaster of corners is a stage of preparation of walls to a level condition for their further registration. It is quite complex, because it involves working with surfaces that are in different planes. However, this procedure is mandatory, since the curved corners can cause defects in the exterior finish and cause complications when installing furniture or equipment. Having skills in the construction business, leveling the corners of the walls with plaster can be done independently.
Measurement of the corners of walls and ways of their alignment
In order to measure the deviation of the angle from the vertical and horizontal, you will need a square, plumb bob or building level, a flat piece aluminum profile not less than 2 meters long and a ruler.
To determine cavities and protrusions, you need to attach a piece of profile to the corner. Then you need to set it in a vertical position, which is checked by the building level. After performing these actions, you should measure with the ruler the maximum deviation of the angular line from the vertical of the established profile - this will be the desired skew.
The horizontal deviation of the angle from the value of 90 degrees can be measured by a large square. It should have long sides - almost from one wall to the other. You can make such a tool using the property of the Egyptian triangle and two long rules.
In the Egyptian triangle, the presence of a right angle is determined automatically by the ratio of the sides - 3: 4: 5. Therefore, such a figure can be drawn on the floor, and then on its sides to align the two rules and to fasten them together in the form of a right angle. This tool can be useful for further work: on one wall, beacons for plaster are installed in the usual way, and on the adjacent plane - on the angle piece.
The rectangular shape of the room can be checked in another way. To do this, measure the diagonals of the room. They should be the same.
If it turned out that after checking the walls have significant irregularities, forming corners that do not correspond to the norm, they can be aligned with gypsum boards that are attached to a frame that can fix any curvature, at least half a meter. However, this technology will take away a certain part of the living space, to which the owners are usually very reverent.
With small defects of the walls, the alignment of their corners is made with plaster, while the useful area of the room is kept as much as possible. This method is more laborious and involves a rather dirty process, but it is highly reliable, creating a monolithic coating.
Preparing the corners of the walls in front of the plaster
To qualitatively perform leveling plaster corners, you should have necessary tools, prepare the surface of the walls and know certain rules of work. Now about all this in order.
The ideal material for leveling corners and walls is plaster, made on gypsum basis. It allows you to increase the thickness of the coating gradually by applying to the surface of thin layers of the mixture. Due to the rapid polymerization of the material, the plastering process is not prolonged for a long time.
To work with such a mixture, you need to select the appropriate tools:
- Rule. It serves as an aluminum rigid rack with a width of 10-12 cm and a length of at least one and a half meters. It allows you to accurately assess the condition of the plaster layer: its texture, bumps and hollows.
- Semi-finished. It is a wooden, steel or polyurethane board with a length of 500-700 mm with a handle fixed perpendicularly to its non-working surface. The tool is used to apply and level the plaster.
- Grater. This is also a cloth, equipped with a handle, its length is 20 cm. The tool serves for grinding and grouting the surface. On the graters used for finishing, the working surface of the canvas is covered with felt, rubber or foam rubber.
- Corner. The device is in the form of a straight triangle. It is used as a measuring tool, a template for applying plaster and drawing a solution, fulfilling the function of the rule. To capture the maximum area corner walls the size of the instrument should be large enough.
- Trowel, spatula. This is a kind of metal blade equipped with a handle. A trowel is needed for casting gypsum plaster on walls. This process involves using a triangular shaped blade as the most convenient. With a small amount of work, the trowel can be replaced with a spatula.
Before plastering an even corner of the wall, its surface should be cleaned of the old peeling coating, paint, cladding, wallpaper and other finishes. In addition, it is worth paying attention to the presence of grease, bitumen or salt stains. If they are available, they must also be removed by available means.
After that it is necessary to measure the deviation of the angle in two planes in the manner described above and check the surface of its adjacent walls with a rule or an even metal profile of at least 2 m in length. The longer the tool length, the more accurate the measurement result. Detected hillocks should be knocked down by a chisel, and close large grooves with a mortar and wait until it dries completely. Then the surface of the walls adjacent to the corner is to be treated with a primer to reduce its hygroscopicity and remove dust.
The basic rules of plastering the corners of the walls
Before starting this work, you should familiarize yourself with some rules, knowledge of which will allow it to be successfully completed:
- Plaster can be applied to concrete, cement-sand, brick and gypsum surfaces of walls. The adhesion of the mortar to the wooden base can not be obtained without the use of a crate from racks or a mesh.
- The thickness of the plaster layer on the walls is allowed to be no more than 50 mm, for individual depressions - 70 mm.
- Preparation of the mixture is carried out according to the instructions of the manufacturer. It indicates the ratio of water and dry powder, which must be observed when kneading the solution. A small amount of added liquid will result in insufficient plasticity of the mixture, make it difficult to work with and can cause cracks on the surface of the plaster after it has dried. Too much water in the solution will not allow him to gain the necessary strength and fill the cavities on the walls with quality. It is not recommended to use industrial water: it should not contain foreign impurities.
- After mixing, the solution must be worked out within half an hour. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare it in small portions. Drying mixture should not be tried to "revive" with water, except for the deterioration of the quality of the plaster, this will lead to nothing.
- The deviation of the angle line when it is plastered should not be more than 1 mm, this will spoil the appearance of the future finish.
- The angle between adjacent walls should be straight and be strictly 90 degrees. Violation of this rule will entail problems in laying the turning elements of pipes, joining skirting boards and installing furniture.
Plaster of internal corners of walls
With significant flaws in the surfaces, plastering of the corners of the walls along the beacons is carried out, and their small irregularities at the joints are corrected by the use of a special angular profile equipped with a reinforcing mesh - the counterweight.
Plaster of the corners of the walls along the beacons
This method of plastering corners is used when leveling the walls around the perimeter of the room. For work you will need a large square, the manufacturing of which was mentioned above.
First of all, it is necessary to select a supporting wall, perform marking on the layout of the lighthouses and, according to it, fix the screws. By exposing their hats at one level, the base plane is formed. This procedure is performed using a plumb line.
The next step is to set the lower and upper screws removed from the support wall. In fact, to obtain a right angle, it is sufficient to correctly install the lower nearest screw. Preliminary it should be screwed as far as possible into the dowel, taking into account the gap for the beacon not less than 6 mm.
After this, you need to attach the square to the pair of lower screws of the support wall and the far screw on the adjacent plane. It is necessary to determine how to deal with the screw nearest to the corner. If the rule of the square does not touch its cap, the screw must be unscrewed to the touch. If the rule rests on the near screw, but does not touch the far beacon, you should unscrew the far screw. As a result, the work of the cap of the four lower screws located on different walls should create a right angle.
The upper screws are set already on the level, being guided by the height of the twisting of the lower self-tapping screws from the wall. After installing the lower and upper screws on both walls, you need to check the thickness of the plaster layer under the beacons. After the lighthouses are frozen, their location can be checked once again with a square. The pitch between the beacons should not be less than the length of the rule.
The solution is applied first on one side of the corner. The cavity between the beacons is filled with a mixture, and then distributed by the rule. After the drying of one wall of the corner it is possible to pass to the adjacent wall.
To smooth the joint of the walls a special corner spatula is used, which greatly facilitates the work. The movements of the hand should be directed away from the corner. During operation, the tool should be periodically moistened in water.
Plaster of the corners of the walls using the counter
This method is good if the walls are already aligned, but you only need to draw corners. To perform this work, you need to cut a piece of corner with a reinforced mesh with scissors for metal. Its length should be equal to the height of the angle. Aluminum counter-buster - rather soft, for this reason, special efforts should not be applied to it, so as not to disrupt its shape.
Then at the joint of the walls, apply a little gypsum mixture with a spatula and spread it over the height of the corner. The counterstick segment must be attached to the corner and with a long rule it should be slightly pressed down. The work should be done carefully, as the metal corner - quite thin and easily deformed.
Surplus plaster mixture at the same time will be squeezed out through the perforation of the profile. This solution should be transferred with a spatula onto the counterweight grid, smoothing it.
When the mixture dries, the surface of the corner should be ground with a fine mesh abrasive mesh. If the surface is prepared for painting, it is necessary to apply a thin layer of fine-grained gypsum plaster onto it, align it and wipe it after drying.
Plaster of corners of walls with reinforcing tape
With the help of plaster, an even angle of the walls can be obtained using a wide reinforcing ribbon-serpyanka. This method is used only to form a joint surface at an angle of 90 degrees and does not provide for their full alignment.
For work, plaster is required, wooden block strictly rectangular section and a length of 40-60 cm, as well as reinforcing tape.
A small amount of plaster should be applied to the joint line of the walls with a 10 cm grip from each surface adjacent to it. Then the edge of the serpent should be put to the top of the corner and, holding it at this point, unwind the roll to the bottom, as far as the width of the arms' coverage allows. When performing this procedure, it is important that the serpian does not deviate from the specified direction and evenly overlap the joint.
After gluing the tape with plaster, take the bar, and then press the jaws along the joint line and its planes to give the angle a straight form. The mended tape on the walls can be leveled with a spatula, and the excess solution transferred to the rest, distributing it from the angle line. Work with the spatula carefully so as not to disrupt the position of the tape at the junction. After the mixture has dried, the reinforced coating of the corner should be sanded with an abrasive mesh or sandpaper.
Plastering of external corners of walls
Beautiful external corners of the ideal shape can be obtained with or without a perforated metal profile. In the first case, the strength of the angle will be higher.
Plaster of the outer corner of the wall without reinforcement
Before you start this method, with the edges of the walls adjacent to the corner, all the projections should be brought down by the chisel and the large slots covered with mortar. The process begins with the installation on the side of the corner of a flat board or wide strip that will serve as a kind of formwork. Mounting is made to the floor and ceiling, but if you choose the optimal length of the board, it can be installed by the enemy.
The board should be wrapped with adhesive tape and protrude from the outside because of the angle at a distance equal to the thickness of the plaster layer. Adhesive tape is designed to prevent adhesion of mortar to the surface of the "formwork".
Then the plaster is applied to the surface adjoining the corner and distributed over the whole height of the joint with the help of the rule. Movements are made towards the corner with a slight slope down.
In no less than two days, you need to carefully dismantle the board and apply it in the same way to the already plastered side of the corner. Then repeat the above procedure with another wall.
The finished corner is sanded with sandpaper or a grater equipped with an abrasive fine mesh net.
Plaster of the outer corner of the wall with a profile
The metal profile forms an even angle line and protects it from accidental mechanical damage. Calculation of the number of aluminum corners is easy: it is necessary to measure and sum the lengths of all external wall joints and add 10% to the resulting figure, taking into account the material waste during installation. The standard length of the corner is 3 m, and the height of the premises is from 2.5 to 2.8 m. Thus, 20-50 cm of profile will be taken into the waste as cuttings for each corner. They can be useful for forming short corners on the protrusions of walls or ceilings.
To form a right angle when plastering walls on its adjacent surfaces, you first need to apply a prepared gypsum mixture.
Corner of necessary length is fixed by pressing movements on the area treated all over the height of the joint. This work is desirable to implement a rule that will prevent deformation of the corner from careless pressing of the hand.
Surplus of the mixture, squeezed through the profile perforation, is carried by a spatula from its metal part onto the mesh. Immediately after the installation of the corner, its position on the wall should be checked by the building level. While the mixture is not frozen, any adjustment is possible.
After the plaster has dried, the corner of the wall should be sanded with abrasive material. Finishing angle is carried out in combination with the walls.
Plaster of rounded corners of walls
Rounded corners of walls plastering is not difficult. Initially, the adjacent joint surfaces of the enclosing structures should be leveled with the gypsum mixture according to standard technology. When creating rounds, the planes of adjacent walls serve as beacons, and the rules are a special template.
It can be made as follows: a strong plastic wire must be pressed into the rounded corner, the shape it has acquired will give the contour of the future template. Then the sample must be applied to the thick plywood and circle it with a pencil. On the received line it is necessary to cut off excess material. The template is ready.
Then at the corner over its entire height, you should cast the plaster solution and remove the excess from the template. Small sized ellipses do not require reinforcement. But when making roundings with a diameter of more than 100 mm, they need to be reinforced with a wire or reinforcing mesh. You can do with the use of screws. They are screwed into a rounding with a pitch of at least 200 mm.
After drying the plaster of the corners, it is necessary to apply the last finishing layer with fine sand added to the solution. This coating is rubbed with felt to create the most smooth surface of the rounded corner. Grout should be done only with horizontal movements.
How to plaster the corner of the wall - look at the video:
Plastering and alignment of corners are considered to be the most difficult task, especially for beginners. It requires quite high professionalism. However, with a conscientious and unhurried approach to this business, it is possible to create even angles in the room completely independently. The difference in the performance of work by professionals is in this case only in the time that will be spent on it.
Plastered flat surface can even beginner master, replacing the experience with diligence. When working with complex reliefs, one effort will be scarce. This requires either experience, or a special device - a perforated corner, with which you can beat the conjugation of surfaces. We will tell how the experienced plasterers and novice masters, using a perforated corner, level the corners.
How to level the corners of walls with plaster and spatula
In the room of any dwelling there will always be at least four internal and six outer corners. Internal corners are formed due to the conjugation of adjacent walls, and external - are formed by a window and doorway. And if the walls and apertures are finished with plaster, then the presentability of this cladding will depend, in part, on the quality of the faces at the joints of the planes.
Therefore, experienced plasterers pay special attention to the joint of the planes to be trimmed. And for the formation of ideal faces, these masters use only plaster and spatula, acting as follows:
- 1. First you need to calculate the deviation of the face from the vertical and the horizontal, using the simplest plumb.
- 2. Then it is necessary to measure the perpendicularity of the conjugation of planes using a square.
- 3. After that, you need to install on the plane beacons, setting the depth of the missing layer of plaster.
- 4. Further, having finished with preliminary measurements and lighthouses, the master prepares starting and finishing (finishing) plaster solution. If the deviations in the vertical and horizontal are insignificant, then you can level the corners of the walls only with a fine putty, without a rough draft of the starting plaster.
- 5. After that, the solution is thrown on one and the other plane and aligned with the rule, with a periodic vertical measurement of the plumb line.
- 6. In the final, the finishing of the corner is done using a special spatula.
In this case, the angle alignment technique assumes the following approach to finishing: first, a sketch is made on the plane with the maximum deviation from the vertical (horizontal), then the solution is allowed to solidify, and then cast the plaster on the plane with minimal deviation, using the frozen layer as a beacon.
In the final, the joint is brought to an ideal state with the help of a finishing putty and a special spatula made in the form of a corner. Finish mass is applied to the wall and carefully rubbed with a corner. If you do not have a corner spatula at hand, you can use a regular flat-scraper tool and a rule that is set up along the face instead.
The scraper with the finish line slides along the wall and the rule, forming perfect angle one side. Then the rule is rearranged to the other side, waiting for the plaster to dry on the finished plane, and the operation is repeated anew. And success in this business comes only to experienced plasterers, so all novice masters prefer to use a perforated corner.
How to align the corner of the wall with a perforated corner
With the corner the master does not need a preliminary measurement of deviations, nor a leveling beacon. He will replace both, significantly reducing the complexity of the operation. With the corner you can even out the corner of the wall, having spent for this work the minimum time. And in this case you need to act like this:
- 1. Measure the length of the edge of the joint with a tape measure and cut off the corner. And in an apartment of a standard lay-out one strip of corner will be enough for any joint.
- 2. Mix the mortar (at least rough, at least finely) and apply a spatula with a depth of a centimeter to the edge itself, designed for alignment.
- 3. Apply to the shaft of the plaster mortar corner and press it with a spatula, not forgetting to periodically check the vertical plumb line.
- 4. Remove the remnants of the solution, which appeared through the perforation in the corner plate. Once again, check the vertical or horizontal and leave the joint at rest for 20-30 minutes.
- 5. After half an hour we start plastering the mating surfaces, resting with a spatula in the ledge at the junction of the profile plates.
As a result, you get a perfectly flat surface, and the final alignment of the corners of the walls (grout joint) in this case is not necessary. The perforated insert will play the role of a beacon that does not allow the spatula to damage the seam line.
In addition, after finishing, the perforated plates will work as a reinforcing insert. Therefore, the door and window openings will not be covered with chips and cracks, which inevitably appear with time on any faces, not protected from accidental shocks.
Moreover, with the help of a perforated corner plate it is possible to protect not only straight joints, but also curved surfaces formed both on the inside of any wall (in the interior) and on the external surface (in the exterior). To do this, you only need to select the right profile from the vendors' offer of the commodity range of similar products.
Varieties of plaster corners
In most cases, the assortment of plaster angular profiles is classified according to the variety of structural material used in the manufacture of such a product. And on this basis the commodity nomenclature is divided into two groups: metal and polymer.
The metal group includes corners of steel and aluminum. Steel, of course, is the most common (structural), but to protect the product from corrosion, it is coated with zinc. Aluminum is not corroded, so it goes to profiles without additional coating.
The planes of metal products, laid on the mating surfaces, are necessarily perforated. During the installation through the hole in the strips of the angled profile, plaster appears, holding the product at the junction. In some cases, in addition to the perforation, the strips of the metal product are supplemented with a steel mesh, which guarantees a stable fixation on the walls with a large deviation from the vertical.
The thickness of the strips of metal profiles does not exceed 0.4 millimeters, so they are readily used in contrast to thick polymer products. However, such products only go to direct joints. To collect with the help of a metal profile the arc is simply unreal.
The polymer group includes both classical and arched corners. The bands of the last variant are not monolithic, but are decorated in the form of teeth. As a result, because of this feature and the natural plasticity of the polymer with the help of this profile, you can beat not only a straight but also a rounded joint (the same arch).
In addition, polymer products do not rust from moisture contained in the plaster solution and are cheaper than steel analogues. However, the arched and ordinary corners of the polymer have one minus - they are designed for applying a plaster layer with a minimum depth of at least 3 mm. Therefore, it is not recommended to use such products for finishing.
According to the execution of planes, the polymer profiles do not differ from the metallic analogs. They have a similar footprint, width of strips and perforation, which allows to stick a strip on the plaster wall. Only instead of the steel mesh, the polymer version uses a fiberglass analog, which, however, has comparable tensile strength.
Plaster of internal corners: permissible deviations.
Angles are one of the most complex elements in the decoration of walls. Unlike the plastering of walls by lighthouses, the difficulty lies in the fact that even the most minimal deviation, imperceptible not to the wall, is clearly visible in the corner.
The requirements for plastering are rather strict:
- Line should be perfectly flat with a deviation of not more than 1mm.
Violation of the requirement leads to a curvature of the corner, the difficulty of fastening the curtains, the external aesthetic unattractiveness of such finishing.
- Absence of biases: The walls are strictly vertical, the ceilings are horizontal.
A significant slope of the wall makes it difficult to fix hinged furniture, decorative elements, does not allow you to place objects close to the wall (there will always be an oblique gap above or below).
- Strictly 90 degrees. This is difficult to achieve in old buildings with warped walls, in houses built with errors.
Complicating the installation of rotary communication elements. For example, when conducting heating, it is more difficult to lay a pipe, because the standard "turns" are only 90 and 45 degrees.
It is more difficult to join plastic skirting boards.
Small deviations, distortions are permissible, but only 1-2mm. With a significant initial curvature, it is more difficult to achieve qualitative results. Therefore, plastering the corners of the walls with their own hands is considered a difficult task.
How to draw a right angle.
A slight slope of the wall, which can be leveled with a solution - 15-20 mm. You can do the work yourself, you just have to follow the rules:
- Stucco walls on lighthouses.Without correctly placed landmarks, it is difficult to perform work qualitatively. set on a plumb or level at a distance of 10-15 cm from the corner.
- Follow the sequence.Plaster of internal and external corners does not fit right away. At first, they throw a liquid solution, give it a grasp, only then they apply the main part.
If the alignment assumes the presence of a thick layer of solution, then the work is done in two steps: throw one layer, allow it to harden, then the second. The plastering of walls on beacons, applied immediately by a thick layer, falls off, tears off from the wall under its own weight, the bond of the layer to the base will be weak.
- Do not rush.Do not immediately do everything at once. First, align the rule of the wall to the lighthouses, not reaching the angle of 1-2cm. Then, using the rule, the angle itself is leveled.
A simple waymake the plaster smooth - step-by-step work. First, treat one wall, let it dry. Then the second conjugate is aligned. So it's easier to work, because one wall is already level and solid.
Even easier plaster corners using a large metal square. It is used as a rule, directing movement from below-upwards. The tool rests and slides along the lighthouses, fortified near the corners.
How to align the angle with a significant curvature of the wall.
If the slope of the walls is more than 1-2 cm, additional operations are necessary, you can not even out the distortion of the wall in 5-7 cm!
"Take off".
Degree of deformation of walls should be reliably estimated. For this, the surface is studied with the help of a plumb-a heavy metal weight on a rope or a building level fixed on a rule.
Installation of lighthouses.
Too deep cavities should be better prepared before the installation of lighthouses, so that the latter do not interfere with the work. On small in area, but deep distortions, it is possible to do plastering of walls on beacons at once.
Reinforcement.
Too thick plaster does not hold well on the wall. Therefore, the places where the solution is equalized the curvature of the wall, reinforce.
To do this, drill holes in the wall for dowels every 40-50cm. They reinforce the reinforcement - reinforcing mesh. You can use pieces of wire that wrap around the screws.
The reinforcement must be in the thickness of the future leveling layer. Therefore, it is located no closer than 1-2cm to the surface of the future plaster.
AT wooden houses plastering of walls on lighthouses with an earthen basis, as a reinforcement use shingles, waste of saw-timbers. The cross-section of the rails should not exceed 4-5 cm square.
The shingles are simply nailed to the wall with nails, having an incline (45 degrees to the floor) with a distance of 3-5 cm.
Before removing the angle, the reinforced leveling inserts are allowed to dry completely.
Plastering.
The leveling plaster does not differ in composition from ordinary plaster, therefore it is applied according to the standard rules:
- Primer.To the solution had a strong adhesion to the wall, the latter is covered with a primer layer.
- Spray -application of a liquid, creamy solution to the wall and reinforcement. For a more reliable contact of the solution with the wall, it pounces with a blow, a kind of "slaps".
- Soil -the main layer of plaster. For very curved walls, the primer should be applied in several (2-3) steps with drying of each layer.
How to make even angles with minimal plaster.
With small deformations of the walls (1-2 cm), the whole surface can not be leveled. If there is a need to get by with minimal time and cost repairs, only the corners of the rooms, the joints of the walls with the floor and ceiling are leveled.
The plaster in the room remains a curve, but because of perfectly flat angles, this is not noticeable.
Here's how to make a smooth corner of the wall:
- Walls.The plaster is applied to the corners and aligned here. But further, along the length of the wall, the layer of solution is reduced to nothing. To make the insertion unnoticeable, you must avoid creating sharp changes. For inserting thicknesses. 1-2cm width should be about 15-20cm.
- Floors. Here, the alignment is necessary for the installation of the plinth.
- Ceilings. The leveling layer is applied only to the wall, if it is done on the ceiling, the insertion will be noticeable.
However, the surface of the ceiling must also be made even in the area of abutment to the wall, but with a minimum thickness.
Such an economical way of leveling is applicable only when small inserts of 1-2 cm are needed. At deeper deformations, the inserts will be too noticeable.
Stucco rounded corners of the walls with their own hands.
The corners with rounding are not more difficult to plaster than ordinary ones:
- Aligning the walls.The walls are plastered and leveled according to standard technology.
- Reinforcement. An ellipse of small diameter does not require reinforcement. But when creating significant rounds (when diam more than 10cm), they are reinforced with reinforcing mesh, wire. You can do by screwing screws (step not less than 20 cm).
- Spray.
- Apply the template.Throw a solution and remove its surplus rule. In the case of rounding, the role of beacons is played by the surface of both walls, and the rules are a specially crafted template.
This twisted rule is done like this: apply an easily curved, but strong wire to the fillet, press it into the ellipse. So get an accurate picture of the future pattern.
Wire is applied to plywood (not less than 6mm thick) or sheet steel, tin. Circle with a pencil. On this line, cut off excess. Template is ready!
When the plaster of the corners is completely dry, apply the last, covering layer with the use of fine sand (fraction not more than 1mm). This layer is rubbed with felt to make the wall as smooth as possible.
It is worth remembering that the rounded corners are overwritten only with horizontal movements.
Necessary tools and adaptations.
Plaster of internal corners requires a standard set of tools and consumables. Some of them can be replaced, others - no.
Lighthouses.
Steel profile – the best option: metal elements are not "afraid" of water, easily strengthened, ideally even. But they are not suitable for economical, minimal repairs.
Wooden lighthouses - Racks of small cross-section (2.5х3cm and thinner). The difficulty of using them lies in a whole set of shortcomings:
- Curvature. It is difficult to select reliably flat bars, because the wood is constantly deformed, being absorbed by moisture from the air and giving it away.
- Swelling. Wood increases in size, swells. With regard to lighthouses, this drawback is most relevant, because plaster is a "wet" work.
- Dismantlinggalvanized steel beacons are considered optional. Wooden rails must be removed before plastering corners. Formed voids, furrows make up for the solution, level. This requires additional effort and time.
However, the board guides are much cheaper than metal guides and are sometimes used for a tight budget allocated for the renovation of the premises.
Lighthouses from solution - fragments of the mixture, deposited on the wall with an easy-to-work rule of thumb. Such landmarks have advantages: they do not need to be deleted, and they are free of charge. But working with them is not convenient, it's quite difficult to level. This method is acceptable for small walls and is used mostly by experienced specialists.
Checking the angles with the laser plane builder.
The laser level is the most convenient and accurate control tool. To verify the angle, it is sufficient to establish it along the line of the bisector (approximately) and to combine the vertical plane of light with the surveyed vertical line.
Tool.
Stucco walls on lighthouses will require availability, which is difficult to replace:
- Rule.Wide (10-12cm) rigid aluminum "rack" not less than 130-150cm long. Allows you to accurately assess the condition of the plaster layer, its curvature, cavity and bulging.
- Semi-finished.Wooden, plastic or steel "board" with a handle. Length of half aft approx. 50-70cm. Used to level the mortar on the wall.
- Grater. Same as the half-and-half, but a small size (20cm). Comfortable in poorly accessible places, as well as for leveling, covering and grouting.
- Corner -metal or wooden device in the form of a straight triangle. Used to control the smoothness, as well as a template for plastering, drawing plaster. It is used as a rule.
The larger the tool size, the more reliable the measurement result. For plastering the most convenient is a square with a leg length of 100 cm, since making an angle of 90 degrees with plaster is easier, using the maximum area of the conjugate walls for the landmark.
- Trowel, spatula.A trowel is needed to spray mortar onto the wall. If the volume of work is small, it can be replaced with a spatula.
- The plumb line, the building level. Plumbing work to study the slope of the walls and the installation of lighthouses can be done more quickly (if you work together), because the rope can be pulled over the entire height of the room.
Level (level) is more convenient, but it is short, which makes work difficult. However, it is difficult to do without it.
In addition, tools and tools may be needed to prepare the mortar - a trough, a shovel for sand, buckets. If the plaster inserts are not connected with the arrangement of corners, but only with their alignment, the solution is prepared in a bucket, mixing with a mixer (drill bit) or with a spatula - on the floor of the bucket of the mortar.
Is it possible to plaster the corners of the walls with your own hands?
For a beginner, the plastering of the walls along the lighthouses is a difficult task. But the alignment of angles is considered to be the most difficult occupation, requiring high professionalism.
However, with the appropriate painstaking and conscientious approach, the creation of equal angles is also possible for self-realization. The difference with the work of professionals will be only in the time spent on the task.
Almost everyone who encountered repairs in the old apartment, especially if it is a question of the so-called "Khrushchev" and "breeches", probably faced the problem of leveling the curved walls. However, the houses of more modern construction also, unfortunately, do not have a high quality finish. It is for this reason that it becomes necessary to take some measures to remedy the situation. How to level the corners of the walls, especially if it is necessary to do this in order to qualitatively paste wallpaper? What needs to be taken into account, because the corners, as you know, can be both external and internal?
If you have never even done this, it is quite realistic to do all the work yourself. The main thing is to follow the instructions clearly.
In order to have a more detailed view of alignment, let's look at the most commonly used methods and materials that are applied. In total, there are 2 main materials used in this type of work: plasterboard and plaster.
Causes of curvature
For a more detailed understanding of how to level the corner of the wall, we will need to learn in detail how bends appear and what can be the cause. First of all, it should be noted that, despite the use of a whole set of tools by bricklayers (starting from simple vertical plumb lines, which can easily be made with their own hands from improvised means, and ending with complex laser levels and other high-tech tools), brick or block masonry still does not work perfectly flat. It turns out that as a result of manual laying, all kinds of convexities, concavities may occur, slopes and deflections of both walls and bearing walls from the vertical are possible. We must not forget about the unevenness that exists in the horizontal plane.
So it turns out that it becomes difficult to correctly and correctly paste wallpaper, which, as a result of curvature on the walls, as well as in the place of their contact, become completely unattractive. They can disperse, or, on the contrary, form ugly folds.
Note! Since any angle represents the very point at which two walls meet, their evenness is the determining factor. In those cases where the walls are level, the angle will also be straight (90 degrees, with rare exceptions). However, if the partitions themselves are curves, and moreover they do not adjoin at a right angle, this can lead to the formation of excessive curvature and the appearance of unevenness visible to the naked eye.
In other words, the same line, which is a kind of "transition" from one wall to another, instead of a straight line turns into a curved curve, which, in very bad cases, is a peculiar wave-like sinusoid. Moreover, there may be such an option, when the line is markedly deviated both horizontally and vertically, from the initially specified parameters. Incidentally, in addition to the inability to smoothly glue wallpaper, such cases are also fraught with the fact that you can have difficulty in installing floor and ceiling skirting, and even when installing certain items of furniture.
So, there is hardly any need to provide further evidence of the complexities and problems that can arise in the case of curvature of corners in a room. Of course, for the quality repairs we need only right angles. Therefore, now let's move on to a more specific description of what exactly needs to be done in such cases.
How to be in case of minor curvature
First, let's look at how to level the corner of the wall 90 degrees to fix small curvatures and unevennesses. In principle, in such cases, you can do without significant difficulties in the work. Since this task does not involve any radical reworking and taking special measures to eliminate curvature.
How to align the inner corner of the wall?
In such cases, unfortunately, you can not use such a method as the use of the so-called perforated corner. The use of such an approach can lead to not very good consequences, which will later have to be eliminated, and this, as you know, is an additional waste of time and financial resources.
So, what to do in such cases? The optimal solution in such difficult cases is the use of such tools as the plaster rule. Instruction on the sequence of actions:
- Apply a rough putty on the problem area along the junction of one wall to the other.
- Using the rule, form an even inner corner. This is done by rotating the rules first along one wall, and then along the other.
- As it solidifies, treat the corner and adjacent sections of the walls using sandpaper. If necessary, you will need additional use of the finishing putty, which can be used to fill small irregularities that remain after the first stage.
By the way, as for tools. In addition to the long rule, you may also need a wide spatula. It is used for final leveling with the help of finishing plaster. Alignment is performed with the help of movements, which must be done in the direction from the corner to one side and the other. By the way, we recommend that you look at the instructions on how to align the inner corners of the video walls):
How to align external corners
If we talk about the fulfillment of this task, I immediately want to make a reservation that it can be performed somewhat more simple way. To do this, you need to buy a perforated corner, which was mentioned a little earlier. Its installation is not particularly difficult and can be handled without problems. So, here is a brief instruction with a sequence of actions:
- Prepare the adhesive for drywall. It is also quite convenient and ordinary putty.
- So, the first thing you need to do is apply one of the aforementioned adhesives to the sections of the wall that are located on both sides of the corner.
- Raise the corner, gently squeeze it into the putty or glue and level using a long construction level.
- Remove any excess putty or glue using an ordinary spatula. If necessary, it will be necessary to sand the surface with sandpaper.
Thus, in this case, the corner plays the role of a kind of lighthouse. In addition, there is an alternative method for solving the same problem. Align outer corner The walls can be made using a flat wooden or plywood rail or a metal profile. Finger one of these structures on the wall in such a way that the edge of the rail or profile serves as a kind of beacon. Alignment is carried out using putty.
Note! Of the two considered methods, the first is preferable, since it allows not only to align the corner of the wall, but also to strengthen it with a metal corner. On the other hand, the second technology is cheaper and more profitable for the total cost, since you do not have to buy a corner, avoiding the materials, since the rail or profile can be found almost anywhere, but melts more when carrying out repairs.
How to deal with large distortions
As already noted, in some apartments, especially when it comes to houses of old construction, it is unlikely to solve the problem in the ways described in the previous chapter. How to level corners and walls in such cases? We will have to resort to more serious ways. These include, first of all, plasterboard and putty.
How to level a plasterboard
This method is the simplest of complex, so to speak. Before you level the corner in the apartment with his help, you need to take care of the preparation. Get rid of the old layer of wallpaper and other debris that can interfere with the work. As for the installation of drywall itself, there are two main ways in which you can perform its installation:
- Installation of drywall on glue. This technology is designed solely to ensure the alignment of the walls, without any additional options.
- The second method involves the use of an additional skeleton, which is made of profiles. It allows for some additional options, such as, for example, insulation or noise insulation, which are made with the use of mineral wool and other materials necessary for carrying out such work.
Each of these methods has its pros and cons. The advantages of the former include its relative simplicity and cheapness. At the same time, its main drawback is the lack of the possibility of warming the apartment or performing soundproofing works. On the other hand, the skeleton method allows you to do this, but takes a considerable portion of the useful area of the room. In addition, carrying out work on such a technology presupposes the existence of certain experience and skills that not everyone has. In other words, you will have to hire a team of builders, and this, as you well understand, means additional costs.
We use plaster
This method is somewhat more complicated, because when you use it, you will most likely have to align not only the angles, but also the walls themselves. A brief work instruction listing the main steps is approximately as follows:
- Surface preparation (cleaning from old wallpaper, paint, primer.
- Next, we mount the plaster grid and fix the beacons, checking their evenness with the help of the building level. In extreme cases, a vertical plumb line is also suitable.
- After that we prepare the plaster mixture and carry out all the necessary work.
As a conclusion
So, as we see, aligning the corners in the room is not something impossible. In any case, it is recommended to do all the work in accordance with the instructions, as well as listen to the feedback, advice and recommendations of experienced masters. In addition, it will not be superfluous to study other sources of information. To do this, we recommend that you learn how to level the corner of the wall with your own hands (video):
Manufacturers of furniture always carefully measure its rectangular shape, but in apartments sometimes the geometry of the room turns out to be wrong, and it is necessary to decide, how to make even angles with plaster. After all, hardly anyone needs problems when arranging the interior, when the wardrobe, made with due regard for the presence of skirting boards, does not stand in the tapering corner, or, conversely, between the furniture and the walls there are huge cracks. Therefore, let us tackle practical stereometry, that is, work with a three-dimensional figure, which, in fact, is the room.
1 How to make even angles with plaster, if the curvature is small?
Most often, the owners of houses and apartments face the problem of pretty crumpled, lost their form of external corners, corners, niches and alcoves, on vertical beams (reinforced concrete crossbars). To check how large the error is, it is quite simple, it is enough to take an ordinary metric gon and lay it on the converging surfaces of the walls. If the curvature takes place, or one scale does not touch the wall, or vice versa, both will touch, and at the junction of the walls between them and the measuring tool there will be a gap. In other words, the outer corner is sharp or blunt, respectively.
If the deviation from the correct geometry is small, up to 2-3 millimeters, it will be sufficient to use the counter-cutter (perforated corner-overlay) and the putty mix to correct it. With a very small error (up to 1 millimeter) enough and one putty. Before making equal angles for plastering walls, priming is always used, the same applies to other finishing materials.
After priming, cover the whole vertical joint of walls abundantly with a mixture and apply the perforated part so that a part of the leveling composition has appeared through the holes. Next, with an ordinary spatula, smooth out the finishing material that has been made, so that the counter-shield disappears almost completely. From the corner of the same putty align the entire wall with the help of the rule.
2 Aligning the outer corners with a large margin of error
If the situation is much more serious than we would like, we will need a three-line one, along which we will equate the wall, as well as a pair of old two-meter rules and a plaster mix. It is desirable that a tripod is attached to the radial level, with the help of which it will be possible to put labels at different heights. Kontrasultz will also be used, but already as a fastening element, to increase the reliability and durability of the angle, so we take a perforated overlay with shelves wider or with a grid. Now with regards to the finish.
How to align external corners with plaster - step by step scheme
Step 1: Making the device
With the help of lasers, between which the angle is exactly 90 degrees, we make from rules a two-meter gon, folding their ends overlap so that the rays pass exactly along the internal faces along the entire length up to the far ends. We screw three screws at the junction. Such a device for reconciling geometry in the layout is only suitable if both walls are longer than two meters. If one of them is much shorter than the rule, or saw off an excess part of one of the sides of the gon, or do not do it at all, but use only the laser, which is more complicated, but not less effective.
Step 2: Lighting
If the walls, the convergence of which need to be exposed at 90 degrees, is longer than two meters, we keep the beams of the lasers at their distal ends and put the beacons at the far ends of the connected rules by the screws (screwing to the required depth). Then screw the screws into the holes specially made for them at regular intervals along the angle piece, first on the same plane, then go up a meter and a half higher. We try to drill on different levels holes one above the other, for which the laser level is also useful.
Step 3: Set Beacon Profiles
So, on the whole wall we have even rows of self-tapping screws, and are either stuck or plastered. Now we need to make sure that they are all on the same level, for which we resort to the laser, installing it at the bottom corner screw in the plane of its cap. All other screws must also light up, those that are slightly lower, twist, and which go beyond the line - we screw it. By self-tapping vertically fasten the gypsum plaster solution with beacon profiles 6 mm thick. To do this, we apply vertical mortar along the screws the mortar, we impose profiles on it and press it along the entire length with the rule until it engages in self-tapping screws and lies on them. Remove surplus mixture, trying not to touch the lighthouse.
Step 4: Form the outer corner
Next you can apply a primer, and on drying it - plaster. In general, this primer layer should be the second one, the first walls should be covered after setting the screws in one plane, having previously cleaned the excess of the fixing mixture. Stucco mixture is applied by a layer of about 3 centimeters, compacted according to the profiles of the beacons by the rule (for this we disassemble our device). When both walls are ready, and we reach their junction, we again collect the two rules together and with their help, sketching out the mixture, form the corner. Next, we superimpose the counterweight with the grid, slightly wedging it into the mixture, which is smeared on top. The second layer should lie on top after the drying of the first one.
Between each layer of finishing material, it is desirable to apply a primer, even before laying the finishing layer. It follows that you should wait for the complete drying of each layer.
3 Plaster of internal corners, setting of geometry by laser
The error in the degree of internal closure of the walls is somewhat more difficult to determine, since the laser level can no longer be used, the hull will interfere. Therefore, we use the same gigantic two-meter goniometer, but first we take the level and with its help we prepare the "starting" support wall, that is, the one with respect to which we will expose the second plane. To do this, you need a three-line level, in which the rays run out 180 degrees from the body, installed in the center of the wall.
How to plaster the inner corners - a step-by-step scheme
Step 1: Lighthouses on the supporting wall
First, screw the screws on the laser along the floor. Then go to the level above, fixing the screws exactly over the bottom ones. So we move upwards, exposing the plane with beacons, which should eventually spread out the vertical surface with even squares with sides of about 1 meter.