Plinth under the tile is used to give the finish a finished look, closing the gap between the wall and the floor. Sometimes, instead of a special skirting ceramic tile, use a conventional floor tile, which is cut to pieces, but the quality of such material can not be called satisfactory.
Currently, skirting boards are produced by almost all manufacturers who manufacture ceramic facing products. Usually, for each such decor, the corresponding ceramic skirting boards and corners are also made.
Purpose of skirting boards
A tiled plinth for the floor is used to make a connection between the horizontal surface of the floor and the vertical surface of the wall, which is lined with decorative materials, for example, ceramic tiles. For the facing corners of cornices and plinth use special shaped inserts.
Manufacturers produce such products of this group:
- shaped tiles;
- tiles with a "blockage" (to perform the necessary joining of the corners on the end surfaces);
- rectangular tiles with lined ribs (for conjugation of ornament or pattern);
- cornice tiles with a shaped profile (with a break and glaze on the front side).
Important!
When purchasing facing products, you must ensure that they are from the same lot, as the technical regulations of most manufacturers allow a deviation in the length of the faces to 1.5 mm.
In this case, in one batch this deviation can be either a plus or a minus, which facilitates a qualitative lining.
Requirements for plinth tiles
Floor tile skirting must meet the following requirements:
- have the right shape, without a noticeable bulge or concavity;
- cracks and potholes are not allowed;
- the difference in thickness between individual tiles should not be more than 0.5 mm;
- the plinth for the tile floors of I and II grades can have a curvature of the surface not more than 1.5 mm, and for grade III - no more than 2 mm (measured by placing a separate tile on a flat surface);
- the curvature in the corners is allowed not more than 0.5 mm;
- the water absorption index (ie the ratio of the mass of the tiles in the dry state and when laid on the surface) should not exceed 16%.
Ceramic plinth in the interior of the room
Most often ceramic tiles are used to cover the floor in the bathroom and bathrooms. In this case, and the walls, as a rule, are also faced with tiles, which in thickness and color do not differ from the floor.
Therefore, to interface such surfaces, the skirting board can be omitted. If the joint is neat, then its additional design is not necessary.
However, in recent years, ceramic floor is also being equipped in other rooms, for example, in the kitchen, in the corridor, and sometimes in the living rooms. If in the kitchen for wall finishing the use of tiles is frequent, in other rooms walls are usually lined with other materials.
In this case, the joint between the surface of the tiled floor and the wall, which is covered with alternative decorative material, needs an elegant design along the entire perimeter.
It is in this case that use is highly desirable. In this situation, it can perfectly harmonize with the interior of any room. But for this you yourself will have to decide which plinth fits the tile.
a ceramic skirting board is highly desirable. In this situation, it can perfectly harmonize with the interior of any room. But for this you yourself will have to decide which plinth fits the tile.
In addition to exclusively aesthetic functions, this decorative finishing material fulfills the task of facilitating care for floor covering from the tile, protecting the wall from traces of wet cleaning. in this case, is inferior to ceramic material.
In this case, however, use is highly desirable. In this situation, it can perfectly harmonize with the interior of any room. But for this you yourself will have to decide which plinth fits the tile.
In addition to exceptionally aesthetic functions, this decorative finishing material performs the task of facilitating the care of the floor covering from the tile, protecting the wall from traces of wet cleaning. in this case, is inferior to ceramic material.
Ceramic plinth in the bathroom
To decorate the joint between the surfaces in the bathroom, the ceramic plinth is used not only between the floor and the wall. This decorative element is even more often used to seal the joint between the side of the bath (or the shell and the wall surface).
It should be noted that the bath is placed close to the wall only in the post-Soviet space (which is connected with the lack of space in the bathrooms). In Europe or America, the bath is usually located on a low rise (podium) in the middle of the bathroom.
it should be noted that the bath is placed close to the wall only in the post-Soviet space (which is connected with the lack of space in the bathrooms). In Europe or America, the bath is usually located on a low rise (podium) in the middle of the bathroom.
Plinth on the bath on the tiles in domestic small bathrooms is attached not only as a decorative element, but also as a protective (protects from water ingress).
Advice!
The skirting between a bathroom and a tile should not be made by an artisanal way as to receive an equal edge on a tile it will not turn out even with use of the advanced cutting tools.
In addition, it is unprofitable from the point of view of economy, because it is necessary to use expensive ceramic material, while a high percentage of waste remains when installing the skirting board in the form of inevitable damage to the material during cutting.
Purchase of ceramic plinth
Acquiring ceramic tiles, it is necessary to take into account the availability of additional accessories (skirting boards, corners, cornices, endings, etc.). Why is it important to do it right away?
The fact is that (as previously mentioned) manufacturers tiles Now, as a rule, each collection is made and the corresponding decor. And here it is important not only a suitable color scheme, ornament or pattern.
Manufacturers of these products try to customize all these elements in size. Thus, you can easily achieve high-quality facing in a room with tile flooring.
Tiles and plinths with the appropriate pattern, ornament or special color solution (sometimes these elements can contrast with each other) will emphasize the geometry of the room and will make the interior harmonious and strict.
Important!
When buying, you must immediately purchase a complete set of all accessories, such as skirting boards, as well as cornices, external and internal corners, endings, etc.
Installation of ceramic plinth
Plinth on the tile can be installed in three ways:
- waterproof universal sealants;
- tile glue or cement mortar with additives;
- mechanical fasteners through special factory slots.
Fastening of the plinth to sealants is used, as a rule, for baths, sinks and other sanitary equipment. The instruction does not allow the use of other options for making joints in plumbing.
This method requires more skill, since the quality here largely depends on the accuracy of the mating of the surfaces on which the plinth is laid. For the installation between the wall and the floor, this method is used less often, since strict perpendicularity in this case is not a frequent phenomenon, and when using sealant, there will be cracks.
The use of a tile adhesive or cement mortar with sealing additives makes it possible to smooth out geometric discrepancies (which are usually associated with imperfection during preparatory work).
Such material will well disguise cracks and irregularities. It is necessary to use a special grout for seams, which is selected in the tone of the main material. From time to time the grout will need to be updated, since it has the property of crumbling.
Mechanical methods of fixing the plinth are extremely rare.
The specifics of installing a ceramic skirting board
Difficulties will begin at the preliminary stage. This is due to the peculiarity of the material from which the ceramic plinth is made.
If you can use both a diamond glass cutter and a special manual tare for cutting, then a plinth can not be cut in this way.
Cutting the ceramic skirting can only be a Bulgarian with a thin diamond circle.
Before you do this, the element is necessary:
- fix in the prepared locksmith's vice. In this case, the steel surfaces of the clamps must be replaced with copper or brass plates;
- mark the line of the cut along the ruler or the stool.
Only in this way it is possible to provide a really smooth cut. If it is impossible to provide such conditions on the repair site, then better material prepare in another suitable place, and then deliver it to the repair site.
All its elements are fitted quite accurately among themselves, then the installation itself will be easy to perform, and it takes a little time. In this case, each element must first be placed in its place without glue or sealant and make sure that the dimensions are met.
After this, it is already necessary to apply glue or sealant to the surface and to press the element into place in one motion. Surplus sealant is removed immediately, and the adhesive after some hardening.
conclusions
The installation of these decorative materials with their own hands is quite possible with some skills and observance of the above tips. In the video in this article, you will find additional information on this topic. "Width =" 640 "height =" 360 "frameborder =" 0 "allowfullscreen =" allowfullscreen "\u003e
conclusions
Ceramic skirting boards should be used when flooring is used for tiling or for finishing the joint between the wall and the edge of the bathtub, sink or other sanitary equipment.
Installation of these decorative materials with your own hands is quite possible with some skills and observance of the above tips. In the video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.
- Step 1. Surface preparation
- Step 3. Laying the whole tile
- Step 5. Grouting
- A little about cutting tiles
- Helpful Tips
- Video: laying tiles on the floor
There is no need to contact the services of expensive masters for laying tiles. With the right approach and preparation, you can minimize the cost of the cladding. Given the average price for laying tiles, the savings can be significant. It is necessary to strictly adhere to the rules in the event that it is supposed to lay the tiles with their own hands, in order that the result should be the most attractive, functional and durable. So, tile laying involves the following stages:
- surface preparation (screed formation, plastering of walls);
- marking the location of the first row and installing support stops;
- laying the first row or several differently directed rows in the layout;
- filling the entire area with solid tiles;
- cutting and tiling to fill the remaining areas;
- joint grouting (jointing).
Tools for tile work
The tool necessary for surface preparation is selected depending on the required operations and work execution technologies. Directly for laying the following will be required:
- trowel, trowel, notched trowel, rubber spatula, small level (30-40 cm), medium level (60-80 cm), plumb bob, rubber hammer, solution tank. In places where the whole tile does not lie down, it will be necessary to cut and cut it, for this you will need: a tile cutter (mechanical or electric), pliers or cutters, a large file or sand paper, a Bulgarian.
Calculate the number of materials!
In order to properly assess the required number of tiles, you should not only measure the surface squaring for the cladding, but also estimate the number of tiles that are to be cut to pieces. All this depends on the complexity of the walls and the floor and the presence of all kinds of obstacles in the form of pipes, corners, protrusions in the wall, etc. Approximately follows over the estimated number of square meters to take more tiles sufficient for laying two rows along two adjacent walls.
For gluing tiles, it is best to use specialized adhesives. Especially it concerns facing the bathroom and the kitchen, where it is required to use moisture-proof compounds. Especially since proper preparation surface consumption of the solution is minimal, and the cost of laying is significantly reduced.
For more information on calculating materials for tiling, read the separate article.
Step 1. Surface preparation
In order for the tiled surface to be perfectly even and strong, it is necessary to prepare a qualitative surface. In no case should you expect that a small unevenness on the floor or wall can be closed by using more solution under the tile. A qualitative result can be achieved only when all the material is placed on a uniformly small layer of adhesive.
Before laying the tiles on the floor should form a screed. In the bathroom and toilet, it is necessary to form a layer of waterproofing. Screed can be produced both dry and wet method, adhering to the appropriate technologies. It is best to lay the tile on concrete base, that is, on a wet screed. If the old coating is replaced, it is completely dismantled and the surface is leveled with cement mortar.
In order to tile the wall with tiles, it is necessary to get rid of all the old covering and plaster the walls with the obligatory reinforcement of the building mesh. It is best to do this with the use of lighthouses. Use shpaklevku not worth it, as well as to achieve a perfectly smooth surface, this can worsen the adhesion of the adhesive.
All skirting boards, platbands on the doorway and doors are dismantled. Prepared surface must be cleaned of dust, dirt and primer.
In case you are sure of the reliability of the layer of the old tile or just want to save time - familiarize yourself with the technology of tile replacement without removing the existing coating. But in any case, this practice is suitable only for notorious lazy people.
Step 2. Perform markup and installation of supports 
options for non-standard laying of floor coverings
Before laying, it is necessary to prepare the markings and stops for the first row, which will be used to install the tiles.
At the bottom, a plastic corner or a wooden rack is fixed, on which the first row will rest. With the help of a plumbline, a line is drawn to control the verticality of the laying. In the case of using multi-colored tiles or various types of mosaic laying, it is best to mark with the marks of the place of laying of tiles other than the mass.
The line of the spaced edge of the first row of tiles is traced. The locations of the tiles are marked, which will differ from the main mass when forming the pattern. The laying of floor tiles starts from the far corner. In this case, if necessary, shift the location of the first tile so that a single piece is laid at the entrance without the need for cutting it. The calculations take into account the size of not only the tiles, but also the gap between them.
Step 3. Laying the whole tile 
traditional schemes of tile works
Having prepared the markings and landmarks, you can proceed with the installation. To do this, the tile adhesive solution is applied to the wall with a notched trowel thickness to the depth of the teeth. The tile leans against the support or the crosses at the bottom, after which it is necessary to put the tile neatly on the mortar. It is not necessary to press it. Slightly turning the tile along the axis with light movements, achieves maximum adhesion of the product to the solution.
Remember that removing the tiles from the surface after laying on the solution will be problematic, so you should immediately place it as correctly as possible. You can only slightly move it to the sides. Check the correctness of the installation with the help of the level in all directions and in relation to the already laid rows. If it is necessary to slightly deepen the tile, a rubber hammer is used. At the corners are crosses for observing gaps. After this, you can proceed with further laying.
Do not strongly press down the tile to the edges of the solution. All gaps between them should be as clean as possible. In the future, the grout will be used to prevent moisture and dirt from getting under the tile and to give an aesthetic look to the entire surface.
When the hand is already full, it is possible to apply the mortar, taking into account the laying of several tiles at a time. In this case, after the distribution of the solution, the tiles are installed on their seats and in small circular motions they shrink onto the solution. After this, the crosses are quickly distributed into the gaps and, with the help of the level, the whole stacked row is pressed down in various directions, adjusting it to the general level.
After completing the filling of the first row, it is best to wait until the glue under it normally seizes. After that it will be much easier to lay subsequent tiles on the wall. It is important to remember that if after the laying of the next row it is decided to take a break in work, then the entire solution, which is not under the tile, but at the edges, must be removed. If this is not done, and it withers, then before continuing the work will have to chip the frozen solution, which will affect the strength of the joint already laid tiles. Also, all surpluses of the solution are removed in places that are left under the laying of the cut tile.
Step 4. Filling in the remaining areas
After laying out the whole space where whole tiles are used, it is possible to start cutting out the missing pieces and installing them. Cutting ceramic can and glass cutter, but it is better to use a manual, machine or electric tile cutter, in extreme cases, the Bulgarian will also approach. In the latter variant there will be a lot of dust, so it is better to carry out pruning in the street. Tile marking is made taking into account the gaps on all sides.
In order to form an uneven cut, either a manual tile cutter or an electric machine with a diamond wheel is used. Read more about how to do this below.
Step 5. Grouting
After the tiles are completely laid on a wall or floor, wait for the adhesive to dry. After this, all the crosses between the tiles are removed, and jointing is made. To do this, you can use grout on a cement base, silicone or epoxy. Select the appropriate grout in the first place is according to the color design of the selected coating. According to the characteristics, they differ little from each other, except for the method of preparation and use. Cement grout spreads in a dry form and it must be diluted with water immediately before use. Silicone and epoxy grouts are sold ready for use in sealed packages.
Before planing, it is necessary to completely clean the surface of the tiles and the seams between them. It is better to use a vacuum cleaner for this purpose. After this, if a silicone or epoxy grout is used, the tile edges are additionally pasted with a paint tape. If this is not done, then the dried mixture will be difficult to clean off the glazed surface of the tile.
Further, using a rubber spatula, a small amount of grout is applied over the seam and pressed inward. Putting a rubber spatula across the seam, and pressing it through it, the excess is removed. At the same time, the seam becomes deeper and compares.
Remove the paint tape and the rest of the grout after it has completely dried. Clearing and washing the entire tile surface, you can consider the work completed.
Note: in the same way, ceramic tiles are laid. Differences in part relate only to the nuances in the methods of cutting tiles.
A little about cutting tiles
Virtually no work on the tiling will not do without the need for its pruning. This can be done in a variety of ways: starting from a glass cutter and ending with modern machines with a diamond cutting circle. If a mechanical hand tool is used, the process is similar to cutting glass. At the same time, the cutting wheel runs a line along the marking on the glazed side of the tile. After that, scrapping is performed. The floor tile is more massive and it will not be possible to cut it beautifully with a glass cutter. For all types of tile cutters, the split wheel has a significantly larger diameter of 1.6 cm to form a deeper cut.
For example, consider the option of cutting using a mechanical machine chopper:
- Such a tile cutter has a platform for placing tiles with restraints on which marking of the ruler is marked. This facilitates the process of cutting a number of tiles of the same size. Adjust the limiters to the required distance so that the planned line of the cut falls on the line in the middle of the tool.
- At the top of the tool, a carriage runs along the two guides, provided with a cutting wheel and a folding stop, in which the petals are arranged at an angle to each other, and also by a lever. We lead the carriage to the far edge. Attaches the wheel to the edge of the tile and is pressed along its surface along the cutting line.
- After that, the stop on the carriage is located in the middle of the cut and the tiles are pressed lightly.
The difficult moment is not a straight line and not diagonally, but figured cutouts with a semicircular shape or several bends for drawing wires, bypassing outlets or leaving water pipes. In this case, on the glazed side, a cutout shape is outlined, and along the line is carried out gently with a cutting wheel of the hand tile cutter. After that, you can bite off the unnecessary part of the tile by pieces until you only have the necessary part in the form. The resulting edge will turn out to be rather uneven, a file or sandpaper will be used to solve this problem.
When using an electric machine, the entire part, which should be removed on the tile before the marking, is cut into thin strips and bites off, the edge is also compared by a file.
A full article and video materials about all methods of cutting tiles read and watch here.
Helpful Tips
- Well if the length of the row accommodates the tiles without the need for trimming the extreme. If this is not the case, the stacking range should be shifted so that the last tile is intact. If, in this case, the remaining gap requires fragmentation of 1-2 cm, the row is still shifted so that wider pieces are placed along the two edges. This eliminates the need for laborious cutting narrow bands tiles.
- The same applies to marking the position of rows in height, especially when laying is not done under the ceiling, but to a certain level, for example, often tiles are laid in the kitchen. It is necessary to distribute the rows in such a way that the first lower row is formed from pieces, and the top of the whole tiles. Laying starts better with whole tiles, while raising the initial support bar to the required level.
- Laying tiles in the corridor is best, starting with filling the space along the long walls, leaving in the middle or one of the edges a gap in one tile. Necessarily, it is necessary to apply marking lines in order to not get lost and do not make the remaining opening already, than the tile.
- If different variants of laying in the form of a figured construction or using tiles of different colors are used, it is necessary to designate in advance the locations of the tiles that are different in shape, direction or design. It is often used to separate individual tiles diagonally to form a pattern using a joint distribution. In this case, it is better to leave the places with the mounting of the cut tile for filling in the last place.
- Be sure to read the instructions of the tile glue used. Some options involve moistening the surface of the tile, before installing it on the layer, the adhesive solution applied to the wall.
Video: laying tiles on the floor
Video: laying tiles on the wall
Laying tiles is a matter of painstaking work and requiring skill. The prices for work with it are high and at times can be equal to the cost of the material itself. However, if desired, you can manage it with your own.
Calculating the amount of material
In order not to spend extra money and not to buy excess, calculations should be made carefully. In order not to be mistaken, we compose the simplest scheme of packing on a sheet of paper. An ordinary sheet-book in a cage can not be better suited for these purposes.If you plan to lay one color tile, then it is not difficult to calculate how much it will be needed. The height of each wall is multiplied by the width - we get it area in square meters. Now we summarize the area of all four walls. Since under the bathroom and on the front door glazed tile is not accepted, this space we do not take into account.
The obtained result follows add 4% (when laying on a diagonal of 10%) on the segments and the battle. Several tiles should be left in reserve (after all, during the operation, they may need to be replaced).
Counting the number of tiles (gray color shows the doors and space under the bathroom, which will not be glued)
If you plan to stick a curb, tile with drawings and other elements decoration, sold most often individually, you should clarify the sellers their height and width and calculate how many whole tiles (and halves) will go to each of the walls. When laying tiles of several colors or if the tile you want is sold by the piece, it is better to draw on the diagram its detailed laying on a scale.
Counting the number of color tiles
Ways of laying
Beginners working with tiles for the first time, it is better to choose the simplest method "Butt joint", when each of the tiles is strictly under the other.
Tile sticker joint in the butt
Stacking "On the fly", at which the tile is staggered or displaced by 1/3 of the length, is slightly more complicated. Cutting tiles will often. Do not use this method with too contrasting material, otherwise it will ruffle in the eyes.
Laying tiles "in disarray"
Masonry diagonally suitable only for large rooms. A beginner with a sticker in this way will have to sweat fairly. It should also be taken into account that there will be a lot of scrap when working, so buying tiles should be 6-10% more.
Laying diagonally
Surface preparation and marking of walls
The base on which laying is planned, should be aligned - otherwise the tile will fall off with time. With the help of the level, the angles should also be drawn exactly at 90 °. Very bad any coating is kept on the paint, so it should be completely knocked down or at least put on the wall with an ax or chisel notches.
Aligning corners
After leveling the walls, the surface must be primed. Without a primer, tile will be kept worse, so you should not save on it. For the treatment of walls in the bathroom should buy a solution with an antifungal formulation.
Glue for tiles
1. For styling is better to buy special glueintended for these purposes. Of course, tiles can also be applied to cement mortar. But it is extremely difficult to dismantle such a coating. Yes, and re-attach the tile to the wall with a layer of mortified mortified mortar will not work.2. The adhesive is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions. Water in it should be added little by little. To obtain a uniform consistency, stir the mortar better with a drill with a nozzle. As it dries fast enough, it should be diluted in small portions.
3. The adhesive mixture is better applied to the tile with a notched trowel - so the glue is distributed more evenly.
Application of glue
Wall tile sticker
1. The upper row is always more conspicuous, so halves of tile are always placed at the bottom. Gluing the tile begins from the second row. To do this, from the ceiling, the required distance (taking into account the joint thickness of 1.5 mm) is measured first, using building level A horizontal line is drawn round the walls, and in the right place is fastened with self-tapping screws aluminum profile or even wood. It will protect the tile from sliding down. After the glue has dried, it is removed.
Laying starts from the second row
2. The tile sticker starts with the corner opposite the front door down up. Tile is applied to the wall and at first slightly moves left-right, so that the adhesive composition is evenly distributed. That the tile is better "pressed", on it gently tap rubber hammer. Excess glue should be removed immediately with a damp cloth.
Tile is pressed firmly against the surface with a rubber hammer
Council. To tile under its own weight does not crawl down, do not rush and put it all at once. Glue better in two rows, and the third start only after grasping the glue on the previous couple of hours.
3. For ideal alignment of corners, it is better to use special corners that are installed under the tile.
Corner for tile
4. In order for the joints to be of equal width, special tools are inserted between the tiles, called "Crosses". If necessary, their legs can be shortened with wire cutters.
Between each tile inserted "crosses"
Important! "Crosses" are removed until the glue solution completely dries. If they have already stuck and are not removed, they can simply break off, push the legs with a spatula deeper, and then wipe.
5. To obtain a level masonry, each row is verified building level. It should also follow the coincidence of horizontal and vertical joints.
Each series is checked using the
6. Tile halves located in the far corners, so that they are not conspicuous. Unsuccessfully cut tiles are glued in those places where furniture or household appliances will be installed.
7. After complete drying, the seams are processed trowel through rubber spatula. Its surpluses are immediately removed with a sponge or a wet chopper. Grout is better to do not cement, and epoxy mixture, the life of which is much higher.
Grout
How correctly to cut a tile?
For cutting it is most convenient to use a special device - tile cutter. On the tile there is a line of cut, and then on this line 2-3 times with a knife of a tile cutter. Further, the tile is chipped manually. To do this, place a nail or wire under the cutting site and push the tiles from both sides with their hands.Council. To facilitate cutting, tile should be soaked in water for an hour.
For cutting, you can use and bulgarian or glass cutter. In this case, so that there are no chips, the cutting is performed from the front side. However, with their help it is very difficult to handle small tiles (it is difficult to hold in hands).
Cutting with tile cutters
Cutting tiles Bulgarian
Laying of floor tiles
1. When selecting products for the floor, you should always pay attention to their surface: the tiles should not be slippery and be slightly rough.2. When laying on a wooden base, use a plywood backing. When sticking tiles in the bathroom on the floor should be pre-laid layer waterproofing (usual thick film) with a slight overlap on the walls and fixing joints with adhesive tape.
3. To understand how to arrange tiles, it is better to first lay out one horizontal and vertical row of tiles dry, without glue.
Dry laying of tiles on the floor
4. The tile sticker is made from the far corner opposite the door.
Important! To prevent the tile from being sold, it is not necessary to walk indoors until the glue dries completely.
Installing crosses
Level check
Video: Laying of tiles
Speaking of ceramic tiles, discuss its design, layout, the technology of gluing to walls or floors. About the grout for the seams are remembered less often, perhaps because its turn comes when the main difficulties are over, and the work is nearing completion. However, so that the final touch does not spoil the whole picture, let's try to understand the role of interlacing seams in creating a beautiful and durable ceramic coating.
Do they really need?
Previously, the question of the width of the seam was solved simply: thin seams on the wall, thick on the floor. This was due to the fact that for a long time floor tiles were inferior to the wall in quality. Conditions have changed, but the habit has remained. In addition, the floors are larger than the walls, subject to temperature, pressure and humidity changes, and thick seams compensate for this phenomenon. If seams with a maximum width of 2 - 2.5 mm were used on the walls, seams of 3-4 mm were quite acceptable on the floor. Accordingly, grouting was created, capable of withstanding a greater stress, - they were distinguished by the composition and larger fraction.
The maximum width of the seam is still indicated on the package with the trowelling mixture - if required by design, it can reach 8-10 mm. However, when tiles appeared with an almost ideal geometry (rectified tiles), it became possible to lay it "joint in the butt", imitating marble. In the manufacture of such tiles, the final calibration and trimming is used, so that its edges, closely adjacent to each other, form a coating that resembles a smooth natural stone.
Laying tiles without seams - a pretty trendy trend these days. And yet it should be remembered that, at large temperature changes and other adverse effects, the effect of a "sailing swell" can arise - unable to withstand the stress, the tile will in some places break away from the substrate. Therefore, the so-called "seamless" laying still assumes a minimum seam (about 0.5 mm) - although the effect of an integral coating is visually created.
"target =" _ blank "\u003e Victor Pshenicin:
"If I am asked to lay a tile without seams, I always fold a scrap of paint tape and make a thin paper plate from it, which I insert between the tiles, or else I just do not undertake to work. So, I always have stitches. We have a climate with significant fluctuations in temperature and humidity. This leads to the fact that the surface to which we glue the tile is breathing, and if not to leave at least a tiny gap, the tile may move away. "
To lay a seamless tile with a flared edge does not make sense, - its geometry does not have it, and the junction points of the tile will be noticeable in any case.
Not just justified, but you need a gap when laying the tiles at the junction of the wall and bath (especially cast iron or steel). The metal has a sufficiently high expansion coefficient, and if the distance between the edge of the bath and the tile is not a certain distance, cracks begin to diverge over the tile due to the pressure constantly applied to it.
A complex approach
Giving preference to ceramics over others finishing materials, you need to accept the fact that the tile itself will last a long time, but the grout in the seams sooner or later wear out under the influence of water, grease, dirt, etc. You can not stop this process, but you can slow down, and for this there are different ways.
The correct way to protect joints and grout is to approach the complex.
Before laying the tiles it is useful to treat the walls with an antifungal coating to reduce the likelihood of mold becoming a problem inherent in both new and old houses.
Antibacterial, antifungal additives are present now in many building mixtures. Modern grouts can have such properties as resistance to chemical influences, low temperatures, water resistance. The latest variety of trowels is well suited for rooms with high humidity.
However, even if you use grouts that use an antibacterial, antifungal, water repellent system, you should not abandon joints with protective compounds.
"target =" _ blank "\u003e Victor Pshenicin:
"Seam protection is performed in 2 or 3 stages: since the seams absorb liquid at the first application, it must be applied a second time, and often a third time, and applied abundantly. Then the tile should be wiped out so that there are no traces of solution on it - after drying it will make it much harder. In work it is better to use a brush so that as little as possible of the substance gets behind the edge of the grout.
It should be said that for a long time already on the market there are materials on the care of seams, their cleaning, compositions promoting strengthening, giving additional elasticity, which are added during work or after the joints have hardened; there are also means for additional internal reinforcement of the grouts. "
Cleaning filters in the water supply system, it would seem, do not have to do with tile laying, but if the water is saturated with iron or salts, in the places where it hits the tile, a plaque will be formed, which is especially difficult to remove from the intertwining seams. Want to extend the life of the tile and trowel - install water purification filters.
On curved surfaces, for example, with the external lining of steam rooms (steam), where the temperature difference is inevitable, or at the junction of the gypsum and masonry surfaces having different expansion coefficients, the grout is not maintained well - under the influence of constant vibrations it begins to dye. Therefore, it is more practical to replace it with a sealant.
Old - new
When the grout is dirty and cracked, the best way is to update the seams.
The old grout is completely removed from the space between the tiles. This operation can be done with a conventional construction knife with replaceable blades, although there are special "expander" with hard alloy tips that are sold in construction shops. The choice of the instrument depends on the master's preferences, the main thing is that the metal blade does not slip and does not scratch the "face" of the tile.
When the seams are cleaned, they are filled with a new grout and covered with a protective compound, exactly as when laying.
The procedure for replacing grout (as well as sealant) is recommended to be carried out every 3-5 years. Of course, this will require some effort, but the lined surface will long look neat and smart.
Grout is removed from the seams in one more case - when its color does not match the color of the tile.
Since replacement is usually done while the grout is still fresh, this procedure does not require much effort. Although there are exceptions to any rule - some types of grout grasp quickly and in a matter of hours turn into a solid mass like stone.
Nevertheless, it is strictly not recommended to apply a new grout directly over the old one. First of all, this method is unreliable: to create a lasting seam, the grout must fill the space between the tiles, resting against their edges. In addition, the surface of the seam will turn out to be uneven, and the colored layers will look through one another.
If the amount of work is great, and the grout has hardened, you can try to repaint the seams: bottles with special paint and brush are sold in some stores. However, the guaranteed result can be achieved only by completely replacing the grout.
There is an opinion that light and especially white grout is quickly polluted and spoiled. In fact, this happens with all the trowels, just on a white background the changes are more noticeable. The tiled surface retains its aesthetic appearance only on condition that the laying of the tiles and the grouting of the seams were made in compliance with the technology, and subsequently they were followed by proper care.
However, manufacturers are developing all new methods for protecting intertile seams. One of them is two-component grouts: they are usually available in the form of epoxy resin with various additives, which are mixed with the hardener before use. Compared with traditional cement-based grout, they are more resistant to temperature and humidity changes, provide reliable protection of the seam from mold and fungus, etc. Such a grout will last much longer without restoration, especially if it is regularly washed, avoiding the accumulation of dirt on the surface of the joints. Gradually, a new kind of materials is gaining popularity, although its application requires certain skills, and the price so far remains contentedly high.
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Experienced masters know how to make the joint of tiles and tiles invisible. Of course, if it concerns a straight surface (floor or wall), then there is no problem with docking tiles and tiles. Between them, usually set plastic crosses, which determine the width of the seam. After the adhesive has dried, the crosses are removed, and the seam is filled with fugue. Everything is very simple. The most difficult thing is to join the tiles in the corners.
There are several technologies for docking tiles in the corners, where different devices are used. The simplest option is the installation of a special tile, which is the angle. True, this element can close the outer corner, for example, the ledge of a column or steps.
The process of laying the corner tile does not differ from the straight line. It is also planted on the adhesive solution, which is applied to two adjacent planes adjacent to one corner of the room. The adhesive composition is leveled by a notched trowel, the tile is laid in place and leveled by the level. Even a novice master can cope with this process. It is important here - to accurately set the lining in the planes, setting between the elements of the crosses.
Using Trims
The most popular option for finishing corners is the use of trims. These are special insert profiles that are made of plastic. For external angles, the trims are L-shaped profiles, for internal corners it is a profile in the form of a concave arc. Before you go to the cladding, you need to glue the profile itself. To do this, you can use liquid nails, sealants or the tile adhesive itself.
It should be noted that the installation of trims is not only an even joint between tiles, it is a kind of design approach to solving the issue of decorating a room. A good trim precisely matched to the color of the tile is a magnificent protection of the junction of the cladding elements, it is also a decorative element in the interior.
Trimming the edge of the tile
This is probably the most difficult option for external finishing corners of the room. The thing is that the ends of the two tiles are cut at an angle of 45 °. It is not easy to do this, especially if you are talking about trimming yourself.
For this procedure, you can use a grinder, an electric tile cutter. The most effective is a tile cutter, if in its design there is an inclined bed. That is, the ceramic material is brought under the cutter at an angle, which can be set with inclined stops. It is very difficult to make a cut with a Bulgarian. Here you need a firm hand and a sharp eye. But even after that, you will have to use an abrasive paper to finish it, to bring it to the maximum accuracy.
The same process of gluing a tile with a cut does not differ from a standard operation. Also applied glue, on which tiles and installed. The main requirement is to tie the tiles together, so that they create a single whole covering the corner of the room.
Internal corners
Now, as for the inner corners. With trims everything is clear, here special profiles are used. With a cut at 45 ° docking can also be done. True, it is necessary to make a pruning in the opposite direction, that is, from the outside to the back side. It is very important not to spoil the front side of the cladding, which can lead to the impossibility of installing tiles.
There is an old way that masters always used. For this, the tiles joined each other so that one of them came under the other end. Not always it was beautiful, especially if the quality and size of the lining left much to be desired. Therefore, this connection necessarily had to be sealed with a trowel or a seal was made with the use of different kinds of materials.
Attention! If the tiles are docked at the angle between the wall and the floor, the overlap of one element to another will depend on the purpose of the room itself. So in the bathroom floor ceramic tile must go behind the wall. This is done with one single purpose - not to let the condensate, which flows down the walls, penetrate under the floor elements.
All the above options for joining tiles with each other - this is not always the quality of the final result. Especially if the trimming is done by a beginner. Therefore, there are various materials, with which you can hide the defects of the cladding. And then the question arises, what is better to seal the joint? In principle, there are two standard options: grout and decorative profile. The second is better, because it completely hides the angle, and hence the defects. In this case, it is installed already on the finished lining, pasting either with liquid nails, or with a sealant (preferably silicone).
It is necessary to pay tribute to the producers, who are trying to find ways to protect from leakage the junction of tile and bath. In fact, this is the most dangerous area through which water can penetrate plumbing fixture, where it will gather and become the source of the appearance of mold and fungi. And they will already get rid of them trumpet.
Options to close this joint.
- If the wall under the bathroom is just as lined as the rest of the surface, that is, the device will be pressed against the lining, then it is best to install a special curb (plinth) made of plastic or ceramics at the junction site. At the same time, the joint must be treated with a silicone sealant before installing the curb. On it also a plastic border is planted. Ceramic is usually laid on the adhesive composition, which glued the tiles to the wall.
- You can seal the joint and sealant, if the gap is not very large no more than 1 cm. If this value is 1-3 cm, then the pre-slot will have to be filled with a mounting foam.
Attention! For these purposes it is better to use the so-called sanitary sealant. It will not form a colony of microorganisms (mold and fungi).
It should be noted that the sealant is very sensitive to impure surfaces, it is poorly adhered to them. Therefore, before applying it, the surface of the tile and the bath must be cleaned with a detergent, and then degreased with a solvent or alcohol. At the same time, so that the sealant itself does not leave its mark on the ceramic surfaces, which can not be removed in any way, it is recommended to stick an adhesive tape on the joint, the middle of which must be cut along the joint. And it is there and send the sealing material. After that, the adhesive tape is removed, and the interface is smoothed with a brush soaked in soapy water. The tiled joint sealed in this way is reliable in terms of complete tightness.