Carrying out major repairs in the kitchen, or doing its partial reconstruction, it often becomes a matter of what material to choose for the arrangement of the floor. He should easily wash, serve for at least 10 years and at the same time be durable, beautiful. After all, all the covers in the kitchen are constantly exposed to all kinds of influences. When preparing food, all kinds of liquids, fats, detergents fall into it, objects of kitchen utensils, cups fall.
Ceramic tiles on the floor in the kitchen, the ideal option for the arrangement of such a coating. But choosing such a material, you should know a few important points. What thickness to choose tiles, the size, what should be the thickness of the coating, the material of which the top layer (glaze) is made. Stability of the product to aggressive environments and repeated exposure to detergents. This is where a number of questions arise that need to be fully understood.
When choosing a tile, it is necessary to push off the dimensions of the kitchen itself, the whole floor surface will not look beautiful if you choose a large (540 * 540 mm.) Tile, in a small kitchen up to 2 meters wide. Part of the surface will be covered with kitchen furniture, some will go under the table and chairs, there will be a small strip. Especially one can not choose a ceramic coating with a large pattern. But there is a way out, we will analyze in more detail what and how to choose.
- An excellent option is to use in such cases plates made of natural materials with dimensions of 800 * 800, 1000 * 1000 and 1000 * 1200 mm. The choice of such a coating is great and it will not be difficult to find a beautiful texture. The thickness of such a plate is 8-20 mm. That is perfectly suitable for arrangement of any surfaces with high performance characteristics, kitchens, living rooms such as "studio" and corridors.
- You can choose tile options for natural stone, with a large size, without fringing and an expressive geometric pattern, and also put a small tile of 100 * 100, 200 * 200 mm, 300 * 300 mm. Closing the entire space of the floor, choosing a single-color or option ceramic tiles with a shallow texture.
- Possible and an intermediate version of the ceramic coating with dimensions of 200 * 400 mm, 250 * 500 or 300 * 600 mm. But then the method of masonry should be chosen carefully, in length with a breakdown at the seams, masonry along the diagonal or just a joint in the joint. Tiles with a texture under the tree can be laid both across and along the kitchen, but it is better all the same along.
With the average size and large areas of kitchens, such problems in the selection of tiles does not arise. It is not recommended to use too small a size of ceramic products (100 * 100 mm.), Ceramic tiles visually merge into one sheet.
What kind of tile is better for the kitchen
A few years ago there was a strong and relatively inexpensive tile, gres. Selecting any kind of products from glazed gres, red clay or granite, specify the class. The first 3 are suitable for facing inside surfaces, the rest 2 are outside. The surface of the floor in the kitchen should not be slippery, this kind of wonderful in this itself has proved. But there is one point that must be taken into account, for the kitchen it is better to buy the glazed version. In the pores with uncovered glaze tiles can be absorbed by fat, leaving dark spots that are difficult to remove. Otherwise, this tile is worthy of attention.
With glossy or textured (ceramic-granite) ceramic tile surfaces, there are no such problems. A thin layer of special coating will not allow the penetration of dirt, inside the structure, remaining on the surface. Such ceramics are easy to clean, serve for a long time, without requiring special care or protection.
Tip: Choosing a glossy look for kitchen tiles, take care of the right choice of kitchen furniture. Not having special inserts on the legs, furniture is capable of scratching the glossy surface of the ceramic coating.
Coating and marking tiles
Ceramic tiles on the floor in the kitchen, selected according to some markings. Consider the necessary notation for the correct selection of ceramic coating.
Having dealt with the type, dimensions and surface designations for quality, let's move closer to the masonry itself. We'll figure out which tool we need, select the glue, and what you need to know about the preparation of the bearing surface.
Surface preparation for tile
Turning to the work on laying ceramic tiles on the floor, you can not miss the quality of the bearing surface. Its durability depends directly on its characteristics. Many had to see cracks on the tile, not only in the kitchen. There are several reasons for this, consider each of them.
- Expansion tape along the edge is not laid concrete preparation (diphthong, proklamin). With temperature changes, all walls are compressed and expanded, exposing the bearing surface to excessive stress. As a result, cracks inside the base, chips, tile peeling.
- Poorly primed preparation surface also leads to negative consequences. In this case, the tile can creak, flake together with the solution, burst under heavy loads. Excessive coating with soils also leads to negative consequences. The film formed on the surface degrades adhesion and bond quality.
- The edges of the tiles when laying tightly adhere to the wall, the factors, too, as described above, the expansion of materials, leading to stress on the surface of the tile.
It is not difficult to prepare the surface itself. You will need a foam rubber cushion with a holder, a bucket, a primer bath, the width of the roller, a brush, a broom or a vacuum cleaner. Two spatulas, 100 and 350 mm wide.
The old surfaces are characterized by cracking of the surface of the base. Here everything is simple, cut the seams with a spatula, remove the pieces of the grout from the cracks. The surface is primed with a roller in one layer, with a brush.
Advice: The primer is not used in its original form, but is diluted with water, in a ratio of 8: 2, where 8 parts of the soil, and 2 water. So achieve a deep penetration into the pores of the solution. After 8 hours, you can coat the pre-embroidered seams.
Adhesives for sealing seams are used on a cement basis. With the help of a spatula, it is possible to straighten the unevenness of the floor resulting from the basting. A day later, the floor surface is ready for laying ceramic tiles.
How to put ceramic tiles on the floor in the kitchen with their own hands
The tool and materials are prepared in advance for the performance of all future work. Its not so much:
- Corner, for marking the right angles. Level 2 m, and one small to 80 cm, check the level between the tiles during the masonry process.
- Roulette 5 m, pencil or marker.
- Rubber hammer with a weight of 500-600 grams.
- A cord with a dye, beat straight lines, for a long distance, this is in any store of building materials.
- Bucket for solution.
- Drill with a nozzle (mixer), Bulgaria with a diameter of 125-150 mm.
- A diamond disk, a file to remove possible enamel inflow from the ends of the tile.
- Crosses for joints 2-3 mm thick.
- Toothed spatula 200 mm wide, tile cutter.
- Personal protective equipment: goggles, rubberized gloves, respirator.
It is necessary accurate calculation by mixture for masonry. On a standard layer of 5 mm., The consumption of glue is 4.8-6.0 kg, per square meter. In the event that the difference reaches more than one centimeter, and check it easily with the help of a 2 meter level. The calculations are made so, take the average thickness. For example, in one corner it is 1.2 cm, and in the other 0.5. Sluggish indicators 1,2 + 0,5 = 1,7, divide the result in half. The average thickness of the glue, 8.5 mm, will be obtained. Hence, the coefficient for the purchase of glue will be 1.5, for one meter of square ceramic tiles you need 8.5-9.0 kg of dry mixture.
The tile is calculated based on the size of the room, plus the percentage of pruning is given, up to 3%. For example, a kitchen 2.5 * 4.5 meters, tile size 30 * 30 cm, seams 3 mm. We divide the width by 33 mm, taking into account the crosses for the seam. Get 8 and a quarter of the tiles, but you need a gap between the wall, go tiles and even less. In the length will lie 14.85 tiles, but taking into account the entrance to the threshold, all 15.
Hence, we take the whole values of 9 * 15 = 45 tiles in the kitchen, taking into account all the scores. This is more than enough.
Ceramic tiles on the floor in the kitchen, is settled from the entrance to the far wall. There usually is furniture or a refrigerator. First, you check the diagonal of the room and draw a line parallel to the wall where the door is installed. The distance from the wall is made 1.0 cm. Then the angles are measured with a square, markers are placed and the cord is beaten by a perpendicular line near the next wall. This will be the first stage after the primer.
With laying easier, preparing a glue solution according to the instructions, you can start the first row. It is the most important, the exact result depends on the accuracy of measurements.
Spread the tile over the whole plane with glue and use a notched trowel to remove excess solution. Then press the corner tile to the floor, measuring the level in two directions. Diagonal is measured when they begin to put the second row. Practically everything.
With the preparation of grouts there are difficulties not only for beginners, but also for experienced masters. Technology is stepping forward. Recently there were grouts with epoxy, semi-composite and other binders. Each case requires a detailed approach to the issue of sealing seams. For the kitchen, it must definitely be water resistant and strong.
To work with it without having experience is difficult, mixing a large amount, you risk 20-30% of the mixture to throw into the bucket. It will simply freeze. In this case, it should be kneaded in small batches of 150-200 grams. Unlike glue, where ready mix poured into the water, the grout is mixed, on the contrary, water is added to it, little by little. Consistency should be like a toothpaste or homemade sour cream.
You can apply the grout with a rubber spatula, passing the seams first across, and then along, removing the excess solution. After 20 minutes, the residues on the tile can be removed with a slightly moistened cloth. Having corrected at the same seams.
Important: Too much liquid grouting after drying will take place, uneven filling will result. The work will have to be done anew.
- First, unfold the first row of tiles without mortar, insert all the crosses and see which side, it will be better to insert the pruning.
- Correct the tiles along the length of the ledge, laying it on the threshold of the door, where the transitional bar is subsequently installed. Draw the markup.
- The tile has the property of arching when getting wet from the mortar. The first row should be laid as quickly as possible and give him 2 hours to shrink.
- Wipe the end of the tiles before laying with a damp rag, remove the mortar. Having fallen between a cross and a tile it will create problems with the sizes in the further, there will be a runaway. You can not reduce the corners of the tiles already on the 4th row.
- When shrinking the tiles on the mortar, press it to the floor until the air comes out of the solution. You will determine this by the sound on the second, third tile.
- The level is constantly wiped with a damp cloth, the solution, hitting between the tile and the level, will lead to the fact that you can not hold the plane.
- The solution should be removed immediately with an ordinary suture, after drying it is difficult to remove. Remove all adhesive residues from the surface immediately.
- Follow when applying the solution to the tile for filling the corners and the middle, badly smeared corners can break down during operation.
- It is impossible to carry out grouting of seams earlier, than in three days after a laying.
- Wash the tool immediately, otherwise during the preparation of the solution, dry small pieces will disappear, from previous mixtures. Delivering a lot of trouble during the application of glue on the tile.
Ceramic surfaces do not require much care, but there are restrictions on the use of certain products. Do not wash the tile with a product that contains abrasives. Pastes, gels containing such a component, leave microscopic scratches. The normal kind of tile is lost if you use metal sponges. Otherwise, there are no restrictions.
Today, ceramic tiles are one of the first places among popular finishing materials. It not only has a wide variety of colors and patterns, but also unique operational qualities:
- durability;
- strength;
- resistance to moisture, chemicals and abrasion.
The tile is indispensable in the bathroom and in the kitchen. It is ideal for finishing the floor in the hallway. But, many owners of old apartments and private houses are faced with the question: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor? It is not always convenient to tear off the existing coating and fill the screed, and it requires certain financial costs. That is unnecessary. In most cases, you can lay a tile on a wooden floor, if its technical condition allows. Therefore, in the first place, a thorough inspection of the old covering and the basement is necessary.
We lay the tile on the wooden floor
On which floor can I glue the tiles?
To ensure that the tile on the floor has served many years, it must be laid on a solid foundation. Therefore, before proceeding to any finish, you need to conduct an audit and repair if necessary. To do this, evaluate not only the state of its surface. Particular attention is required by the supporting structure.
To assess it, raise one or more boards and check the state of the lag. If there are damaged areas, they are strengthened or completely changed by rotten supports on new ones. After the revision of the supporting structure it is necessary to strengthen the boards with new nails. All the cracks should be carefully puttied. If the boards themselves and the load-bearing structure are dilapidated, it is much easier to remove the floor completely, make a pouring and pour concrete screed. AT wooden houses it can be made without any special fears floating. In this case, it will not touch the walls, and will become a reliable basis for laying the tile.
No matter how strong the floor of the boards, it is impossible to directly decorate it with ceramic tiles. First, the ground needs to be leveled. And secondly, the structure is deformed with time, some boards weaken and sag. Therefore, before laying the tiles, the wooden floor requires preparation.
Preparatory work
To increase the strength of the floor and leveling its surface before finishing with ceramic tiles, it is recommended to cover it with moisture-resistant sheet material, such as:
- moisture-resistant chipboard;
- cement-particle boards;
- gypsum-fiber sheets.
Before laying such a substrate, the wooden floor must be treated in several layers with hot linseed oil. Impregnation protects the tree from rotting, and will increase its service life many times.
Many masters recommend filling the voids under the floor with expanded clay or other loose and non-flammable insulation. Such a measure will not be superfluous. It not only helps to keep heat in the room, but also eliminates the possibility of accumulating condensate between the substrate and the wooden floor. For backfilling it is not necessary to lift all the boards, it is enough to remove them small area, and pouring the expanded clay in small portions, level it with any improvised tool (for example, chopping), filling all the voids between the lags.
Preparing the wooden floor for tiling Since the ceramic tile is laid most often in bathroom or kitchen, it is necessary to take care of additional waterproofing in case of water leakage. For this, a conventional polyethylene film is laid on the wooden base. Separate strips have an overlap of 15-20 cm and are glued with ordinary tape. Along the walls along the perimeter, the film should go to the wall, about 5 cm.
After laying the waterproofing the floor is ready for leveling with sheets. They are spread over the entire area of the room. On the perimeter it is necessary to leave an indentation of 5-7 mm, it can be filled with mounting foam or special compression tape, which is now sold in any construction shop. The sheets are stacked and fixed with regular wood screws in steps of approximately 20 cm. It is the sheet material that is most easily aligned with the floor. If necessary, under it, you can put pads made of thin plywood. If the sheets contain a tree, they are also treated with hot linseed oil.
Another little trick that is not neglected by experienced masters - reinforcing mesh. It guarantees reliable adhesion of the adhesive to our base. To do this, you need a conventional mesh glass-fiber mesh. Its also self-tapping with a step of 10 centimeters are attached to the laid sheets. In this case, it should lie flat, but without tension. If the fibers are stretched, then when laying the tiles, they can spring, and voids are formed.
Finishing work
Having a reliable and smooth surface you can go directly to the finishing works. First of all, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material. All tiles for finishing need to buy in one store from one lot. Only in this case it is possible with a guarantee to get a perfect result. Samples of even one manufacturer from one collection, but from different parties may slightly differ in color. This is invisible in the package, but when laid immediately manifested.
We buy the necessary number of tiles from one lot How much to buy tiles?
The answer to this question depends largely on the layout of the room to be trimmed and the method of laying. Put the tile on any surface you can:
- orderly;
- diagonally;
- herringbone;
- in a given pattern order (panels, mosaics, collections using tiles of different sizes).
And the material consumption for all methods will be different. The most "economical" is the simple and most popular method of finishing with even rows with matching seams or in a runaway. For him, the material consumption is calculated simply: the area of the room is + 7%. The resulting figure is divided into the area of one tile and the number of tiles in a bundle, the result is rounded to the nearest integer. This will be the number of packs of the chosen tile required for finishing.
For laying diagonally on the trimming, add 10-12%, "herringbone" - 15%, the options with the picture require more complex calculations. In this case, the easiest way to create a reduced layout of the finished result on paper and calculate the number manually by hand, adding 7% to the crop.
All above listed calculations focus on the usual floor tiles for internal works. If it is a question of porcelain stoneware or other materials of increased strength - it is worth adding another 5%, since it is possible a lot of waste. Such a tile is severely cut with a conventional tool for home use.
What should I glue on?
Today tile glue does not need to be invented. It is presented in a large assortment on the shelves of construction markets and shops. The most common were ready-made polymer mastics and dry cement mixtures with various additives. Which of these two types to choose is a complicated question. For the foundation, which includes natural wood, many manufacturers recommend ready-made mastics. They are fairly simple to use and have good adhesion with almost any material. But, the masters note that the durability of such mixtures is significantly inferior to the tested cement. That is why the most popular today use dry adhesives for tiles.
When proper preparation the basis is best to use a conventional mixture based on cement. It is affordable, easy to prepare and work. In addition, it is these tile adhesives that are best combined with colored grouts, and therefore, to restore flooring will have much less.
Choose a modern tile adhesive Required Tools
Before putting tile on the wooden floor, you need to prepare not only the work surface, but all the tools. Only so the work will be calm and qualitative. For laying tiles on the floor you will need:
- a solution bucket (better from plastic, it's easier to clean);
- a drill bit for mixing the solution and the electric drill itself;
- a few pencils for marking (better than special carpentry, you can buy in the building of the store);
- two levels of different lengths, one small, the second at least 1.2 meters, to control the laying plane;
- master OK;
- toothed spatula (for standard tiles size not more than 30x30 cm - with a 5 mm tooth, for a large tooth - with a 10 mm tooth);
- tile cutting machine;
- pliers for breaking tiles and pliers;
- plastic crosses for adjusting the width of the seam;
- rubber tape to remove excess adhesive;
- kiyanka (rubber mallet) and a small wooden bar (length less than the width of the tile);
- if there are outlets of pipes and other communications, then a nozzle for a drill "crown" or "ballerinka" for round holes is useful.
In addition, for finishing work will be needed:
- a small bath for batching;
- rubber spatula for applying grout;
- sponge or rubber float for removing surplus;
- clean sponge or rags for final cleaning of tiles.
Also, you need a broom or a vacuum cleaner, good lighting, rubber gloves and goggles for work. Do not neglect the elementary protection when cutting tiles and working with cement mortars. Even a small injury can cause serious health problems.
Where to begin?
An experienced craftsman always starts working from the point of purity on the work site. Dust and debris can completely ruin the result. Therefore, carefully sweep the floor, or even better vacuum it.
Where to start to lay a tile? In this question, how many people have so many opinions. The main rule - in visible areas should be as few as possible cuttings. Therefore, in the bathroom, the calculation starts from the threshold for the bath, and in the kitchen from the free wall to the work area. But, if you put the tile from the threshold, then you have to leave on the freshly laid surface, which can damage it. That is why the tilers advise first to calculate how many whole rows there will be and how much size will be trimmed. It is important here not to forget about the width of the seam. For beginners builders an excellent solution it will even be easy to mark the basis with a carpentry pencil, drawing it along the rows. And already by marking, start laying from the wall smoothly, moving to the exit from the room.
When stacking diagonally, "herringbone" or a drawing without preliminary calculations simply can not do. In complex compositions, not only mark out the entire area, as the tiles will be laid, but also number the tiles themselves. Spare no effort and time to prepare. It will greatly accelerate and simplify the main front of the work.
We lay the tile from the thresholds Laying tiles always begin with a number of. And it is he who needs to be given maximum attention. It should be perfectly even, even a small error in the end will "warp" the entire finish. Beginners tilers often use auxiliary materials to make it easier to align the row. It can be a plaster beacon, which after grasping the solution is carefully removed, a flat wooden bar or rule of the desired length, fixed on the bottom of the floor, which are also retracted after laying.
The second and third rows are already leveled by the first, punching the tiles with light kicking strokes and checking the levels. To do this, you can use familiar and inexpensive alcohol tools, or purchase a convenient and accurate laser device. It is much more expensive, but such costs will pay off over time, since almost all repair work with it they become much easier.
When laying the main thing to observe the accuracy, check the plane of each tile and immediately remove excess glue. Compliance with these simple rules guarantees a qualitative result.
When laying tiles, we observe the accuracy Finishing touch
Completeness and completeness of the finished surface of the tile will give a color to the grout. Depending on personal preferences and general interior decoration, it can be in tone to the main material, or vice versa contrast.
Based on the properties and quality of the tiles, it is applied with a conventional trowel and a rubber spatula or a special pouch. The second option is used if the surface of the tile is rough or embossed. Grout is kneaded in small portions to process 2-3 square meters of finished surface. It quickly seizes, and with large areas there are difficulties in cleaning. The solution is placed on the seam with a small slide, and, carefully pressing the spatula or trowel at a small angle, remove the excess. After that, the rubber spatula is leveled. When the mixture begins to set, divorce is washed off with a hard sponge. After a day, the floor of ceramic tiles is enough to wash and after a week it is fully ready for use. If identified areas from which it is not possible to wash off the remnants of glue or grout they can be wiped off with a solution of vinegar in half with water. But, this home remedy should be washed off after use. And the cement that is part of the glue and grout, and some types of tiles are destroyed by acids.
Tiles - right choice floor material for the hallway. The coating here must be resistant to mechanical and chemical damage. The floor in the corridor is problematic, you need resistance to the impact of shoe soles, especially heels. In addition, with shoes we bring street mud, sand, salt. We'll figure out which tile to choose for the floor in the corridor.
Advantages and disadvantages of ceramic coating
The unattractive appearance of the tiled floor remains in the past. The present variety of textures, colors, prices allows you to embody any design solutions in the hallway. The corridor expands, lengthens, attention is focused on the center - as the soul desires. The texture copies a wooden slice, a stone, a fabric. In terms of fantasy zadumok tiles - great stuff. It remains to decide how to choose a ceramic tile for the floor.
No parquet and super laminate can be compared for strength and stability with tiles. Undisputable high performance - for easy tilting tile, the room is always clean and tidy.
Your interior will visually benefit. It does not matter which tile to choose in the corridor - expensive or cheaper, the effect of high prices will definitely play a role. Aesthetically and neatly the coating can look like many years.
The main drawback of ceramics: it is uncomfortable cold and stiff. Barefoot does not feel at home. There is a risk to give the interior a boring mood with a taste of "bureaucracy." We offer several ways to fight:
- install a system of floor heating in the corridor;
- paint a small fragment near the front door. Zoning is relevant for large hallways;
- apply a tile with imitation under a tree, imitating a cozy parquet.
We decide: which tile to choose for the floor in the corridor
Specifications
- Resistance to mechanical abrasion, impact. The load in the hallway is the highest, this negatively affects the condition of the floor covering. There is an international division into five classes of wear resistance. Pay attention to the marking, buy the material with the highest indicators: REI 4 and REI 5.
- The floor in the hallway is a collection of street garbage, dirt. So what kind of tile to put in the corridor, which requires frequent washing with powerful gels, powders? Maximum resistance to abrasive substances, aggressive household chemicals is marked with letters AA. It is also permissible to cover the floor in the corridor with a lining with indicators of anti-chemical protection A and B.
- Confrontation of wet and dirty shoes will ensure low water absorption. Water resistance is achieved in the firing process, for "corridor" tile the indicator does not exceed 3%. We define it visually as follows: the cleavage of the material has a red color, a smooth, nonporous structure.
- The anti-skid indicator is taken into account. For tiles in the corridor, the level of R10 and R11 is appropriate. The coefficient of friction is not less than 0.75. Before choosing a tile on the floor in the hallway, pay attention to the coverage of the proposed specimens. Ideal: matte finish, rough, embossed surface.
Turn away from the beautiful, mirror gloss. The slippery surface will turn into a real ice rink when the slightest moisture gets. After a while, the shine will fade, and in the visible places become a worn, unsightly appearance.
When choosing which tiles to put in the hallway, prefer a strong relief ceramics, indifferent to the effects of water and chemicals.
Size matters
An important question is, what size of tiles to choose on the floor. Small tiles during laying are cut off less, imply saving on material. They look cozy.
Oversized tiles fit faster and easier. It has less stitches, where moisture, dust, dust fall. Subsequently, these gaps do not look aesthetically pleasing, but a material with a lower moisture resistance wears out more quickly.
From the footage of the room, it depends which tile size to choose. For a small hallway, use small square shapes. They hide the oblong. A large spacious corridor allows you to glaze with imagination, this tile is suitable for any size, it looks great pottery.
Attention to the coloring
Light tones are impractical, especially if there is an invoice. Over time, the relief and trowels will be blocked by hard-to-clean dirt-dust. The use of abrasives in this case will negatively affect the coating of the tile.
The dark shade should not be saturated - possible chips, scratches are too noticeable. On the black tile is perfectly visible dust.
Cold light colors will make the entrance room more spacious, warm will give comfort, dark tiles visually restrict space. Find your own compromise, deciding which tile to choose on the floor in the hallway. For example, take a light tile with a mottled pattern of dark tones.
Color tiles select according to the color of the cover of the rest of the rooms. Or play on contrasts, strengthening zoning.
Avoid unnecessary brightness. Multicolor visually reduces space. Optimal colors: beige, gray, coffee.
What kind of tiles to put in the corridor on the floor - it's up to you, but do not forget: the picture of the tile must harmonize with the decoration of the walls.
Porcelain tiles
The frequent question is: what tile to choose in the hall means the choice - will it be tile or granite. The main advantage of the latter - in addition to strength and durability. The manufacturing process is such that the paint and pattern are applied through all layers of the tile. Scratches do not spoil the appearance, chips are imperceptible, since at all levels the material has the same color. Coloring ceramic granite is simple, monophonic, does not occur in the variety of patterns, like tiles.
Layout of tiles
Determining which tile to choose on the floor in the hallway, think about the way the layout.
- Conventional laying in rows is an easy method. If there are no color solutions, the tile does not differ in originality, such styling looks boring. It is convenient to use for large-sized ceramics.
- A brick with a displacement is suitable for rectangular shapes. Original plates of different colors are combined in such a masonry.
- Parquet laying - for ceramics, decorated for a tree.
- Complex modular installation requires effort, experience. In the center is laid out a pattern, a pattern around which the rest of the elements are located.
- Beautiful laying diagonally hides wall defects (for example, non-parallelism). Expands space, requires master skills.
Lay square tiles of two contrasting colors in a staggered order. The usual in-line masonry, and the effect is stunning!
In a large area, the combined solutions are interesting:
- make edging of mosaic tiles;
- lay the center of the panel;
- diversify the laying of monochrome tiles, laying it in sections at different angles: center the perpendiculars to the walls, turn over with diagonal stitching;
- for a narrow hallway, take a tile of two contrasting colors. The alternation of dark and light stripes will widen the hallway;
- diagonal laying will create the appearance of an expanded space.
Fresh ideas on the topic: what tile to put on the floor in the hallway
Zoning room: select a corner for shoes and separately - a meeting place for guests, putting it more elegantly.
Step away from the jammed decisions. Replace standard forms with stylized ones, dilute them with mosaic, ceramic decor.
Think about what tile to put on the floor in the hallway, without losing in aesthetics. Remember the compatibility with the decoration of the walls.
It is interesting to see a combination of tile and laminate in the hallway. A successful zoning option without the use of partitions and other structures. Draw a straight line, connect the two coverings with a bend (which is more difficult to implement).
Having figured out which one to buy a floor tile in the corridor, do not forget about the ceramic frieze. Plastic skirting along the ceramic floor looks cheap.
The hall is the first room that everyone sees in the house. The question of which tile to choose for the floor in the corridor, do not reduce to a practical evaluation of the technical indicators of durability-strength-stability-slip. No less important is the aesthetic component, the originality of the design of the floor covering. Do not make a decision alone, ask experienced friends advice how to choose a tile for flooring. Consider different opinions to form your individual.
Tiles for the kitchen floor are the most qualitative coating material from a practical point of view.
It meets all the requirements imposed on the floor surface:
- wear resistance and strength:
- resistance to temperature fluctuations during operation;
- moisture resistance:
- neutrality to the action of chemically active detergents:
- fire resistance:
- ecological safety and absence of allocation of toxic substances at heating.
The tile is distinguished by its durability and serves without loss of properties, the original appearance. Spoil the coating can only be a violation of the technology of laying.
Types of floor tiles, their advantages and disadvantages
The color scale of the material is very diverse. Tiles are made of different types and structures. Determine which tile is best to choose for the kitchen on the floor, will help the specialist-stacker, based on the material of the foundation under the tile and the requirements of the consumer.
Ceramic tiles
The type of coating differs in size, structure, outer coating, thickness, which determines its high strength. Experts advise buying tiles of the 3rd or 4th strength class and the 4th or 5th class on a hardness scale.
Ceramic tiles meet all the requirements:
- mechanical bending strength;
- lack of static;
- ease of cleaning and absolute resistance to the tools used up to abrasive;
- resistance to ultraviolet rays;
- low cost.
Pottery allows you to simulate any material. The disadvantages of ceramic tiles include:
- low thermal conductivity, which is expressed in lower surface temperatures compared with the surrounding medium;
- low impact strength, leading to cracking in the fall of heavy objects;
- difficulty in laying, the main difficulty of which is to obtain a flat surface.
Replacement of tiles, damaged during operation, is made without problems. When buying, you need to purchase a small amount of material for possible subsequent repairs. For the kitchen floor it is preferable to choose matt tile without glaze with a ribbed surface or corundum spraying.
Porcelain tiles
The material is superior in quality to ceramics. The ceramic granite has the following properties:
- high strength, hardness indicator - 8-9 points out of 10 possible;
- uniformity of color throughout the mass of the material;
- low water absorption, determined by the fine-porous structure;
- resistance to mechanical shock.
The porcelain tiles have wear resistance and durability above ceramic tiles. In addition to the merits, the material has its drawbacks:
- fragility, which complicates transportation;
- great weight, which must be taken into account when planning to place it on the kitchen floor;
- complexity of cutting material;
- high selling price.
The material differs by the type of surface, for the kitchen floor, the porcelain stoneware is preferably selected with a matt surface.
PVC Tiles
Installation of PVC tiles is dictated by the ease of installation, for which there is no need to purchase glue. Possessing a self-adhesive surface makes it possible to quickly install the tiles, there are lock joints between the tiles.
To the merits polymer tilesand also include:
- low material cost;
- sensation of warmth at contact;
- durability;
- soundproofing functions;
- high moisture resistance.
To install tiles from PVC, absolutely smooth surface is needed. Disadvantages of tiles are:
- the artificial origin of the material;
- combustibility, providing a low level of fire safety.
The material is produced in a variety of colors, which makes it possible to implement any design solution.
Glass tiles
The surfaces created with the use of glass tiles are distinguished by a particularly attractive appearance. According to the characteristics of glass, manufactured by special technologies, is not inferior to ceramics.
Advantages of glass tiles are:
- strength;
- simplicity of care;
- the possibility of obtaining an invisible thin seam due to the smoothness of the surface;
- no culling of material.
For all the unreliability of the appearance, the glass tile shows during the operation the abrasion resistance and the complexity of applying mechanical damages. Disadvantages of the tile is the high cost of the material. The floor covering with glass tiles allows to visually expand the space of the kitchen.
Live 3d tiles
It is a layer of polycarbanate with a liquid interposed between them. Available in a variety of colors that change color when touched. Tiles withstand considerable weight and mechanical loads.
Advantages of tile application 3d:
- moisture resistance and ease of cleaning;
- significant range of operating ambient temperatures;
- presence of anti-vibration and anti-noise properties;
- ecological purity of the material.
As a disadvantage, specialists cite the requirements for the presence of an absolutely level surface of the base, the deviation should not exceed 3 degrees to the horizon.
Installation of tiles on the kitchen floor can be made from different materials in terms of strength and visual appearance. All materials are adapted for increased loads of mechanical and temperature properties. The choice of the type of material depends on the conditions of installation, operation and preferences of the owner of the kitchen.
Sep 3, 2014 Werri