Construction and repair by own hands

The floors in the bathroom are a private house. How to make the floor in the bathroom from waterproofing to finishing

Repair in the bathroom is a very laborious process, even though the room is quite small. The main reason for this is the presence of a large number of pipes and communications. Therefore, planning and repair should be approached thoroughly. The floor in the bathroom requires special attention, especially if the project provides for its heating. To make beautiful floors that will meet all the safety requirements, and have a long life, you need to carefully study all the tips and recommendations of specialists.

Layout and design: the bathroom unit itself

The size of a standard bathroom does not exceed four square meters, and sometimes even less. In such conditions, it is not easy to place a sink, toilet bowl, bathtub or shower cabin so that there is free space left. Therefore, first you need to carefully think over the design and layout of the room, make a list of materials used and cost estimates. Depending on what will be the finish, you need to select and the options for flooring.

Installation of the floor will take the most time, because it will be produced in several stages and each layer needs to be allowed to dry. As a result, it will look like a slice pie in the cut.


Stages of the arrangement of the floor:

  1. Laying of rolled waterproofing materials on a concrete foundation.
  2. Pouring of concrete screed about 50 mm thick.
  3. Application of liquid waterproofing.
  4. Fill the leveling screed.
  5. Laying of floor covering.

When installing a warm floor, the necessary communications are laid in the leveling stage of the leveling screed.

When you build a bathroom in a private home, first a black foundation is poured, which in the apartments is present as a concrete overlap.

Tips wizard: how to make the floor in the bathroom beautiful and safe

The flooring of the bathroom has special requirements: it must be non-slip, waterproof, have an aesthetic appearance and a long service life. In addition, the material should be easily cleaned of dirt and limescale.



What types of coatings are used for bathroom rooms:

  • Tile. It is resistant to abrasion, easy to clean, has a large selection of colors and patterns. For the floor is produced a special rough tile with anti-slip properties. The disadvantages of this coating include cold, but in combination with the "warm floor" system, this deficiency becomes insignificant. Also on sites where the person becomes barefooted feet it is possible to lay aquamate or a special rug.
  • Laminate or parquet. This material is warm and pleasant to the touch, has an aesthetic appearance. For bathrooms it is made of special wood with increased water-repellent properties and antiseptic treatment against mold. But with improper laying or a good flood, the material will become unusable.
  • Linoleum. Inexpensive material with a large selection of colors, which is easy to clean and cleaned of dirt. For the bathroom should choose a non-slip linoleum with a rough surface. Fungus and mold will not form on it if the seams are carefully sealed.
  • Underground floor. This is a modern material, which is now more often used in the construction of bathrooms, because it has high waterproofing properties. Often it is installed with the "warm floor" system. You can select a drawing for it, even in 3d format. But the cost of self-leveling floors is quite high, and the technology of laying beginners can not be mastered from the first time.
  • Bung. It is a natural very warm and absolutely non-slippery material. It does not absorb moisture and extraneous smells, does not mold and does not rot. Of the disadvantages can be identified that the choice of colors is limited.

If the "warm floor" technology was used during the installation, then it can be used only a week after the complete drying of all layers.

Solve the question: how to fill the floor in the bathroom

For floor pouring, a traditional cement-sand or special self-leveling mixture can be used, which includes polymers and other fillers that make the floor perfectly smooth without effort. The master himself chooses, with what material he will work most conveniently.



Step-by-step instruction:

  1. First, the preparation for work is done: the height of the future screed is marked using a laser or conventional water level.
  2. On the perimeter are installed beacons at a distance of one meter from each other.
  3. Prepares the solution in accordance with the proportions specified in the instructions. You can use both a concrete mixer, a special drill bit or a construction mixer.
  4. The solution is poured into the lighthouses. If a traditional cement-sand mixture was used, then it should be leveled by the rule, so that the floors are evenly filled.
  5. On a self-leveling mixture, you should walk with a needle roller to remove air.

After complete drying of the screed, it can be covered with linoleum, laminate or tiles.

The screed is poured only at plus temperatures (optimally at + 25 ° С) and humidity not more than 70 - 80%. In this case, there should be no drafts in the room.

It should be borne in mind that the floor in the bathroom should be at the lowest level in the apartment to avoid flooding the premises, for example, when a pipe breaks. You can also raise the threshold slightly, so that water does not pour through its edge.

How to arrange a floor in a bathroom in a private house with your own hands

In a private home, the bathroom floor device has its own characteristics. The floor covering can be laid on concrete or on a wooden base. In any case, you should follow several rules that are provided for private homes.



  • In private houses without a basement, the floors in the bathroom should be as warm as possible or equipped with a "warm floor" system.
  • In the floor, you can make a ladder connected to the sewer, through which accidentally spilled water will be removed. Paul, in that case, should be under a slope.
  • If the laying of the coating is done on a wooden base, then all decaying boards and beams should be replaced.
  • That, laid on a wooden floor, the tile does not bend under the weight of a person, it must be further strengthened.
  • All the wooden elements of the construction are recommended to be covered with antiseptic so that mold does not form.

In a private house when installing floors in the bathroom you need to pay extra attention to waterproofing.

Flooring in the bathroom (video)

The installation of floors in the bathroom can take a long time, but if everything is done correctly, they will last a long time without requiring repair. Beginners should consider all possible options for arranging the floors in the bathroom, and then choose which method is best for them.

To arrange a convenient, beautiful and practical floor in the bathroom, you need to find a balance between the technical capabilities of the construction of this section of the floor and the desired finish of the floor, which determines all its consumer qualities.

Here are the main problems that need to be addressed:

  1. Possibilities for the device of waterproofing.
  2. Possibility of applying the desired floor covering.
  3. The ability to perform all necessary works of the chosen option in a room where people live.

Required by the standards for multi-family housing. Even in an individual house, its device is beneficial - this protective structure will ensure the safety of the underlying premises.

Two basic types of overlapping

The easiest way to arrange a floor in the bathroom is for a monolithic or precast reinforced concrete floor. This design allows you to arrange all the necessary layers of strong and rigid materials on the basis of cement mortars. There is no need to limit yourself in choosing the waterproofing and the face layer - on this basis you can do anything you like.

The same qualities are possessed by many other types of prefabricated and monolithic ceilings, both old and modern. For example - constructions on steel or reinforced concrete beams with filling of different types, prefabricated structures of concrete and ceramic elements.

The construction of a floor in the bathroom on wooden beams is a bit more complicated - this type of construction is preserved in some multi-apartment and individual houses of old construction. Due to the fact that modern wooden floors are profitable to do in some cases and in houses of new construction, the device of a floor for such bathroom is important and now.

Natural restrictions for floors on wooden beams and for some other types of overlap are associated with such features:

  • the need for a very reliable waterproofing of wooden and steel beams;
  • restrictions on the weight of floor structures associated with the load-bearing capacity of the floor;
  • the risk of deformations associated with the features of wooden beams and wooden decking on them.

Self-contained flooring in the bathroom. Structure of the floor

Planning a floor device for own bathroom, made by own hands, the home master should first of all evaluate the technical possibilities for the device of the necessary surface finish. This is the basic structure of the floor (from the bottom up):

  1. Overlapping structures - most often, reinforced concrete slab.
  2. Leveling screed.
  3. Waterproofing layer.
  4. Leveling screed.
  5. Flooring.

You need to make sure that all the required layers are placed in the space above the floor structures to the level of the clean floor. This is important both for new houses and for old ones, where the floor is repaired in the bathroom. In almost all houses, builders have provided the necessary distance from the floor to the floor, so that for the floor of a conventional structure, all necessary layers can be made, even with the floor in the bathroom to be 20 mm below the clean floor in the living areas.


Probably, the volume from the plate to the floor will not be enough for the device of water heating, the use of the floor finish from elements of considerable thickness. In this case, the floor for your own bathroom can be made with certain deviations from the usual solutions in order to save space for the implementation of the conceived. Here's what you can do to make the layers of the floor construction thinner:

  • apply the finest screeds of self-leveling mixtures;
  • use electric heating instead of water-heated floor;
  • arrange a coating of waterproofing okleechnoy.

In any case, considering the floor in the bathroom, it is important to carefully measure the available space and calculate all the layers that are to be made by hand. The list of layers of floor with the indication of their thicknesses received in writing will completely correspond to the professional design decision executed by the expert.

Priority of work on the installation of the floor in the bathroom

The floor for any bathroom begins with an equalizing screed - it is necessary for reliable performance of waterproofing. If the surface of the monolithic reinforced concrete floor is sufficiently flat, this screed can be avoided, and a waterproofing can be made directly along such a slab.

Oakleychnaya waterproofing is carried out with a roofing material, pasted on bitumen mastic. This technology proves its reliability for more than a hundred years. The corners should be carefully formed - without fractures and air bubbles, and the edges of the roofing material are wound on walls at 50-100mm. In a place of a threshold it is possible to lay a block, in due course it will be replaced by a threshold of a box to which it is necessary to paste an appropriate lapel of a roofing material.


If the height of the clean floor with respect to the overlap is large, it is possible to reach this level by means of sheet extruded polyurethane foam - EPP, it is easier than to arrange a thick screed. ETPS sheets are laid on the layer of waterproofing, and the next layer of screed is made on top of them.

Over the waterproofing can arrange wiring water and sewage pipes - they will hide the next screed. The height of this subsequent screed is usually higher than the lower one - it can reach 40-50 mm or more. Carrying out the floor in the bathroom by yourself, it is best to expect that the flat surface of the second thick screed will not be able to get by hand with high accuracy. It is much better to finish this screed with a layer of a self-leveling mixture based on cement. On such an even base any finish is not difficult - it is important to withstand exactly the level of the surface of this second screed.

After the end of the second coupler, it is time to lay the floor covering, for which it must be selected in a timely manner.

Selection of floor coverings in the bathroom

The most common coating ceramic tiles are durable, wear-resistant, beautiful, practical in maintenance and cleaning. The disadvantages include a feeling of cold and a slight risk of slipping. The floor tile is much stronger than the wall tile and has a less slippery matte surface. It is advantageous to arrange such a floor finish for a long time.


The floor in the bathroom can be made of natural stone - only varieties of marble, cut into tiles of small thickness, there are dozens. This is a luxurious finish, which requires an informed design decision. Marble and other types of stone are beautiful, durable, wear-resistant, but, like ceramic tiles, can appear cold to the touch and sometimes - slippery.

The floor in the linoleum bathroom is a simple, inexpensive, practical design, ideal for use in a limited period of time. The choice of drawings is very wide, such a floor is not slippery and even seems warmer than tiles. The advantages of a special water-resistant laminate are similar, from which you can also make a floor in the bathroom. Laminate is perceived to touch a bit colder than linoleum

A neat bathroom owner can make a floor for his bathroom even from the carpet. This is a very pleasant to the touch coating, which only needs to be protected from splashing water and be prepared for its frequent replacement because of accelerated failure from the inevitable splashes.

The wooden plank floor in the bathroom embodies all the charm of an eco-friendly natural cover, but is technically risky due to the risk of buckling and other effects from high humidity.

It is best to make such a floor of mahogany - it does not rot, either from larch or oak, it is beneficial to lay it on logs - so that the wood is ventilated from below.

As an option, it is possible to use boards, abundantly and from all sides treated with waterproof varnish.

Modern self-leveling floors for an individual bathroom are now available to everyone. The floor of this type is beautiful, very even, with a "natural stone" pattern, it's easy to do by yourself. The disadvantage - common for many other sexes - is the feeling of a cold surface, as well as tangible smells of a synthetic nature when applied to the case.


Interesting, beautiful and surprisingly warm to the touch floor for a bathroom made of sheet cork. The recognizable appearance, softness and warmth will make the room with such a coating comfortable and cozy, and its sufficient durability and careful handling will ensure long-term operation.

Floors on wooden beams

Considering how to make a floor in the bathroom on wooden beams, you need to solve two technical problems:

  1. Do not create an excessive load on the beams, the bearing capacity of which is inferior to many other types of overlap
  2. Ensure the insulation of beams from moisture and, especially, from direct soaking.

If the beams are powerful enough, then you can build a thin reinforced reinforced concrete slab with a thickness of 70, 60 and even 50 mm, and you can make any floor with your own hands, as in a house with reinforced concrete ceilings.

Sufficiently risky, but quite realistic with a neat, jewelery-precise coating, which includes intermediate flooring, for example - from OSB plates - especially for the construction of roofing waterproofing. On it you can arrange a wooden boarding on the logs and even facing with ceramic tiles. The finished floor plane for such a bath is suitable for laying a laminate, linoleum, carpet, cork.

The most reliable waterproofing layer on wooden beams is a solid or welded solid sheet of stainless steel. A home master who can be ordered or made with his own hands such a structure from a stainless sheet in the form of a pallet can be sure that the beams will not be moistened or rotted.


The correct and weighted solution of the floor design

For many home masters, making and assembling many designs with their own hands is easier than deciding what to cover the floor in the bathroom. For a successful and balanced decision, you need to adhere to some specific and understandable logic of priorities. Here is an example of a methodically sound sequence of examining the problems of sex for your own bathroom:

  • Based on the previously planned type of floor finishing, the composition and thickness of all layers of the floor for the author's bathroom is assigned.
  • All existing prospective engineering communications and their influence on sex realization are checked.
  • When all technical problems are solved, you can take for clarification of the face layer. Perhaps, the consideration of the technical side of the matter will make it possible to clarify the design decision. Once you have confidence in the correct choice of the design of layers of such a floor and the material of the coating, you can take to work.

Accuracy and attentiveness of the master allow you to perform many works more carefully than experts do.

Looking ahead, I will say that one consultation did not fail, I had to devote a couple of evenings to a specific enlightenment work, the results of which I will now introduce to you.

From ideas dizzy

Strictly speaking, the initial options for the arrangement of heating meant both rational solutions, and bold, but slightly criminal variations of the classic grandson. The question - whether it is necessary or not, has disappeared by itself, since the concept of European-quality repair includes all novelties and technologies. But first things first.

Heat source

Traditionally, hot water serves as a source of heat in the bathroom. Moreover, if water coming through the faucets and mixers is paid from the user's pocket, then circulating through the risers is conditionally free.

Naturally, the scheme from the towel rack has become one of the first. But it was swept away for the following reasons:


  1. Hot water is not always such - for sure, there are often cases when a cold running from the tap first, and at night it may not be at all. Accordingly, all this time your floors will not be heated, but on the contrary - intensively cool down;
  2. To approach the riser, you need to install a stop valve that will be visible to any locksmith or inspector checking your water meters. Agree, the fine for unauthorized use of several thousand rubles no one wants to get.

Next on the agenda was a water circuit, which, in fact, would be a long pipeline. The logic of my acquaintances was simple - while water fills the tub, passing through a long pipeline located under the floor, the heat from hot water heats the floor.


And this option was rejected, since the filling time of the bath takes 15-20 minutes. In such a short space, the floor simply does not have time to heat up, and accordingly the water in the bathroom will not please its warmth. There is a surplus of expensive hot water in our time, the price of which is constantly growing, for the sake of the imaginary pleasure of the warm floor.

Captain Obviousness reports: do not forget that laying a dozen meters of plastic pipe will not be expensive. Plus, everything else, waterproofing and insulation along with a special tile glue will also devastate your pocket a lot. And the efficiency of such a system will be very, very low.


Reasonable option

So, the most practical option is the electric warm floor in the bathroom. It is his work that can be easily, and, most importantly, economically managed. Why?

Everything is very simple:

  1. The thermostat will include heating in exactly the hours that you assign to water procedures;
  2. All the rest of the time the system will remain idle, accordingly, to save your family budget;
  3. Stacking is an order of magnitude simpler than plastic pipes;
  4. The height of the layer of screed under the tile will not exceed 1.5-2.0 cm, which is important for rooms with low ceilings.


In the photo - a visual diagram of the arrangement of electrical heating in the bathroom.

From what to choose

Electrical modern local heating systems are:

  • heating cables of different length and power;
  • special mats based on fiberglass resembling a mesh on which a heating cable is fixed;
  • infrared sectional elements.


To understand which system is more preferable and best suited for solving the task, I grouped the features of each of them:

Heating cable The appearance of the heating system resembles a conventional electric wire, laid in series without overlapping on the floor surface.

But the structure of the heating cable:

  1. Made of a special alloy, which has a high electrical resistance;
  2. For protection, the cable is provided with a screening grid and covered with insulation, which protects against moisture and electricity leakage;
  3. Can be either solid or double-core (the difference in installation is manifested in the way of connection - for single-core it is necessary to connect the other end, for a double-core one, too).

The operation of the heating cable differs from the simple electric one in that it passes through a current heating (a process of converting an electric current into thermal energy takes place).

The small dimensions of the cable allow it to be laid in a screed with a thickness of 50 mm, and the top is laid with ceramic tiles. This combination allows you to keep a comfortable temperature for a long time with minimal energy consumption - it is enough to heat the floor once, and then maintain a comfortable temperature with the help of a thermostat.

Heating mats This is a more modern system that facilitates installation. Manufacture of mats made of fiberglass, resistant to moisture and temperature, and from above fix a special heating cable.

Among the advantages over a conventional heating cable, I note that it is mounted directly in the layer of tile adhesive, i.e. cement screed is not needed, which reduces to 30 mm total thickness of the structure.

  1. In stores sold in the form of rolls of a certain area, so it's easy to buy the right size kit;
  2. They are much easier to pack (no hardware required);
  3. The performance of heating mats is identical to the characteristics of heating cables.
Infrared (film) floors I also note this type of heating systems, stipulating that not all manufacturers recommend their laying under the tile. The reason is the properties of the film, which does not allow the glue to adhere to its surface, which threatens to shift the finish coat and damage the heating film itself.

Its advantages:

  1. Simplicity of stacking;
  2. It is easy to choose the necessary kit for the area without overpaying;
  3. The heating system will work even after the failure of several elements;
  4. The thickness of the construction is only a few millimeters

Disadvantages:

  1. Not recommended for tiles (more often - for wooden floors, laminate, parquet and carpet);
  2. He is afraid of dampness.


Why prepare

In general, having heeded my arguments, having weighed all the pros and cons, my acquaintances chose the heating mats. But before I went with them to the store, I explained some of the features of the upcoming installation works:

  1. Thermal insulation layer - its arrangement is necessary for effective work. As a rule, for this purpose it is better to use plates of expanded polystyrene with thickness from 20 mm;
  2. Shtroby on the wall for installing the thermostat - they should be located at a safe distance from the communications;
  3. For power supply it is necessary to lay a separate electrical cable from the switchboard with earthing, having provided its RCD;

  1. Heating sections should not be under the furniture (in this case we are talking about the cupboard under the washbasin). Otherwise, the constant effect of heating and moist air will quickly render it unusable;
  2. Well, most importantly, it is possible to use heating only 28 days after laying the tiles. Otherwise, without gaining strength, the screed under the influence of heat is cracked, and it will be necessary to reposition the tile in the bathroom.

In a word, my instructions were taken to work. And as to how the installation works were going on, I'll tell you as the repair progresses.

Completion

I hope that my story about how we picked up the warm floor in the bathroom with our own hands will help the respected reader in a similar situation. In general, the best choice assistant is common sense: the features and disadvantages of most modern technologies can almost always be understood by carefully studying the available information.

As always, additional materials will be offered to your attention video in this article. I await your comments and additions. Successes, comrades!

   August 14, 2016g.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or an objection, something to ask the author - add a comment or say thank you!

The floor in the bathroom is cold even when the whole room is filled with steam: warm air always rises, and the floor covering is often ceramic, it conducts heat well. How to make in the bathroom?

Incorrect installation of the water floor () will result in irrational heat losses throughout the heating system.

This option can be stopped if there is no water heating in the house at all (for example, the main source of heat is a Russian stove).

How to make a warm floor in the bathroom from heating in an urban setting? Impossible. The administration will not give permission to the sidebar into the heating riser, as this will lead to a disruption in the functionality of the entire multi-apartment building system. Without permission, the sidebar can not be carried out, the jurisdiction.

But the townspeople also have the possibility of installing a bathroom floor, not prohibited by law: direct connection to a hot riser.

How to make a warm floor in the bathroom from hot water, consider below. The disadvantages of this option are: the floor will be heated only when hot water flows. And the water in the tap will be colder: it will have time to partially cool down, passing along the contour.

The best option for the city is the electric floor. The area of ​​heating, as a rule, small. It is not necessary to keep the system on continuously. With the right calculation, the energy consumption will be quite economical.

A cheap option is a heating cable. Its drawbacks - electromagnetic radiation, the complexity of laying, the need to install the screed (existing).

The film floor will cost more, but he has no other minuses. The installation of cable mats in the bathroom is problematic: the room is small, the geometry is complicated. It is difficult to find the necessary number of mats, but they can not be cut.

How to make a warm floor in the bathroom from electricity is described below. General requirement for film and cable: in accordance with the electrical safety standards, the floor should be connected to a separate machine with a 25-amp RCD. And in the rest, you also need to follow the PUE.

Regardless of the type of sex, the first thing to do is draw up a scheme. The diagram reflects the location of the pipes / cable / sections of the film, the location of the thermostat, the water manifold. Based on the finished drawing, you can calculate the required length of the cable or pipe, the required number of sections of the film.

How to make a water heated floor in the bathroom - an option for a private home: the integration of the floor in a common heating circuit.

  1. Install a collector cabinet (at a small height) or perform a niche in which a manifold manifold will be installed. For the warm floor requires its own collector, independent of the radiators.
  2. Install the comb, connect the feed and return pipes from the boiler to it. Install stop valves at the connection points.
  3. Remove the floor covering, dismantle the old screed.
  4. Align the base with cement mortar, repair cracks and depressions.
  5. To lay the floor with a waterproofing film with the approach to the walls.
  6. To glue on the joints of the floor with walls a damper tape. Its edge should be slightly higher than the future screed (on which it depends).
  7. Pour the black screed. From it to the future of the finish coat should remain about seven centimeters.
  8. Dry the screed for three days, regularly wetting with water.
  9. Lay heat insulator: foamed foam, PPP, polyurethane foam.
  10. If the insulation is not foil, cover it with foil film. Joints stripes glue metallized tape.
  11. Lay the reinforcing mesh.
  12. Lay the pipes according to the scheme. Mount to the mesh with plastic clips. Step between turns - 15-25 centimeters.
  13. Connect the supply pipe and the return to the manifold manifolds through the shut-off valves.
  14. Turn on the water, test the system for leaks.
  15. Cool the floor, fill a clean screed. The total height together with the pipes - up to 7 cm.
  16. Dry the screed (about a day), lay the tile ().
  17. The system can be turned on when the screed fully grasps (about a month).


How correctly to make a warm floor in the bathroom from hot water? Pie floor - as described above. A feature of this method of connection is the connection of the supply and return pipes directly to the hot riser.

  This introduces some adjustments to the standard installation:

  1. The metal hot water riser should be replaced with a plastic one.
  2. It is recommended to lay the floor with a pipe of increased diameter (2 cm metal plastic) instead of the most commonly used cross section 1.6. Otherwise, with a small pressure, the system will work slowly and inefficiently.
  3. It is better to use a short pipe, up to 20 m. The laying distance is 15 cm.
  4. The thickness of the screed should be reduced to 5 cm maximum.
  5. The layer of heat insulation is desirable to make a thick: if the PPS, then not less than one and a half centimeters with a density of 35 kilograms per cubic meter.
  6. Pipes to the riser are connected via ball valves, adjusting and balancing ().

Electric Floors

How to make an electric warm floor in the bathroom out of the cable? In general, the process is similar to the installation of water pipes: waterproofing - roughing screed - insulation - foil - mesh - cable - testing the system for serviceability - a screed - covering.

The temperature regulator is mounted on the wall by way of an overhead method or placed in a strobot no higher than a meter from the floor. When the wiring is open, the power cable from the switchboard to the thermostat is fed in a corrugated pipe, and when closed, it is laid in a strob.

The thermo sensor with the wire away from it is removed to the length of the corrugated tube. The sensor is placed between the cable turns, the conductor in the corrugation is connected to the thermoregulator.

How to make a warm floor in the bathroom, if you stopped on a film version:

  1. The cake of the floor is formed as described above.
  2. The film sections are spread parallel to each other in accordance with the scheme.
  3. Connect also in parallel.
  4. Tie from the top can not be put. In the absence of a screed, an additional layer of waterproofing is placed over the film.
  5. Put a sheet of plywood.
  6. Lay ceramic granite or ceramic tiles on the glue ().

Conclusion

We outlined the basic rules of how to make a warm floor in the bathroom with your own hands.

In suburban conditions, water floors are preferable, in the city electric. Especially if the apartment is not on the first floor.

Leakage of pipes happens even with competent styling. And if you pour the neighbors, the repair costs can be comparable to those that you saved ().

Video: how to make a warm floor in the bathroom with your own hands.