Why do I need an acid primer and what is it? Other names of such autochemical means that can be heard are phosphating, etching, reactive primer, wax-primer. Its main properties are high adhesion and anticorrosive action. Therefore, the purpose of acidic soil is to protect the metal of the body of the car from the appearance of rust. Why is the soil called acid? This is explained by the fact that it cures with acid.
Description and types of louse primers
The main component of the reactive primer is phosphoric acid, which forms on the surface of a poorly soluble metal film that is firmly bonded to the metal.
Characteristics of acid soil:
- resistance to exposure to moisture and salt;
- durability;
- acid aggressive composition is able to penetrate into the metal and thus increase adhesion;
- high resistance to chemicals.
The acid primer for car repair is divided into two types:
- Primary one-component - it does not require the addition of an activator, or catalyst (not to be confused with a diluent!). An example of such a primer is Mobihel Primer 1K.
- Primary two-component - here you need to add a hardener, which as an acid soil for the car acts phosphoric acid. When mixed, it reacts with pigments, artificial resins and other constituents to produce heat. Examples of two-component reactive primers are Novol Protect 340 Wash Primer, Body 960.
Application features
Etching primer is classed as primary and applied only before painting the car body. And it needs to be done with a much smaller thickness, unlike other types, which is associated with very good adhesive properties. The application of the product must be uniform so as not to leave corrosion the slightest chance.
Attention! It is strictly forbidden to apply paint directly to the acid primer. After drying, it must be covered with secondary soil.
Acid primer perfectly lays on galvanized, aluminum, stainless, chrome plated coatings, as well as on iron, welded seams and other surfaces. However, it is forbidden to apply a phosphating primer to materials with a polyester backing. If this instruction is neglected, it will lead to a complete destruction of the protective coating and all work will go to the cat under the tail.
Acid primer refers to toxic and combustible materials, so when working with it it is very important to adhere to the basic precautions - do not use the product near open flames, heating sources and at high temperatures, avoid contact with skin and mucous membranes, protect eyes and respiratory system.
Options for applying acid soil
Application of acidic, or reactive, soil on the car can be carried out in different ways:
- with the help of a normal brush;
- by spraying (spray gun);
- by dipping the part into the primer solution;
- electrodeposition technology;
- by spraying with an electric current.
In the garage conditions, the first two application options are common, and for example, the immersion method is mainly used in production. The most uniform and high-quality coating provides spraying as opposed to using a brush.
Treatment of the metal surface with an auto acid primer is carried out after thorough cleaning and degreasing. The two-component phosphating primer can be primed after drying, for which experts recommend using sandpaper with grain size from P400.
Acid 2-component primer should be applied in stages, in 1-3 layers. The time interval between them is at least five minutes. Drying of the metal treated with a reactive primer is 30-90 minutes, see the packaging of the specific product for the exact time.
If necessary, put the putty on top of the acid soil, and it is permissible to do and vice versa - first the filler, and then the primer. Again, it is unacceptable to combine etchant with polyester putty.
Examples of acid primers
Phosphate reactive primer DUR 1: 1
This acidic soil of the DUR brand of Russian production dries quickly, provides reliable corrosion protection of the metal surface and its good adhesion to the main coating. This tool does not contain chromates in its composition. For the curing process, the reactive catalyst included in the kit is used. The color of the primer is gray, the volume is 1 liter.
Body 960 Wash Primer
This two-component primer primer yellowish color is designed for application to stainless steel, galvanizing, aluminum and galvanized working surfaces. To apply the product, the primer is mixed with the hardener based on Body 960 Act oxides and applied to the metal in one layer with a thickness of about 10 microns. It dries for about 10 minutes, does not need to be ground, and it can be painted with any 2-component materials, except for those made on the basis of polyester.
Radex CR 1 + 1 with activator
This acid pickling primer for auto is effective for rust protection and is a two-component. The kit includes directly the primer and hardener Radex CR Activator in volumes of 1 liter, they are mixed at a ratio of 1: 1 during operation. This primer is especially recommended for coating new metal surfaces and repairing aluminum, as well as iron, steel, galvanized auto parts. The agent provides strong adhesion by forming a layer that retards the development of corrosion.
Reoflex Washprimer 2K 1 + 1
This is a 2-component phosphatizing yellow primer, complete with an acid hardener. Used for repair work on damaged or missing paint and varnish car body. The primer dries for 15 minutes at a temperature of 20 ° C, the thickness of the layer is 10 μm.
Mobihel Primer
Primary one-component primer of gray or olive color with excellent anticorrosive protective properties. Provides protection of galvanized, steel sheet and aluminum surfaces from the development of rust.
The order of application is as follows:
- Mix the primer with a diluent Mobihel Primer in a ratio of 5: 1 (5 soils and 1 diluent).
- Clean and sand the work surface.
- Spray one coat of primer from a spray gun with a nozzle of 1.3-1.4.
- Allow the coating to dry at 20 ° C for an hour, then do not sand and proceed with the application of subsequent materials - secondary primer, paint, varnish.
- It is inadmissible to apply primer to Mobihel Primer primer or polyester putty.
Hello friends! So we got to the acid soil. In this article, I'll tell you when it's best used, and when not, what layer to apply it, etc. In fact, acidic soil is a very useful thing, but if misused, it can do a lot of surprises, but everything in order.
So, when is the use of acid soil extremely desirable? Less and less new body parts come to light without any coating applied in the factory, however, sometimes you have to work with them. To ensure that all our efforts were not in vain, it is necessary to create all conditions for this, and here the application of acid soil will be very useful. The new part is thoroughly degreased, treated with abrasive P180, again degreased and then the acidic soil is applied to one low-fat but dense layer. This material gives an ideal adhesion to the metal and anti-corrosion protection - something that in secondary soils, to say the least, is not enough. After drying, it is already possible to apply secondary primer-filler, or "wet-on-wet" soil. When using acidic soil in conjunction with the secondary, we get maximum protection from corrosion and peeling of the material for many years.
When painting new parts for domestic cars that go in a black transportation ground, the use of acid soil is also advisable, because with the correct approach it is necessary to clean all the "black" from the part to the bare metal, and further according to the scheme described above.
With a local repair, if the area of the bare metal is larger than the match box, it is also sensible to apply an acidic primer.
If the part has been damaged by rust, it is necessary to clean it as much as possible of rust, degrease and apply acid primer. Such protection can stop the corrosion process, while without such treatment the part will spoil much faster. If the part is aluminum, which is also not uncommon, the use of acidic soil is simply necessary.
In no case put putty and epoxy primer on acid!
Acid soils are available in different versions: 1k - in aerosol cans, napkins, or 2k - the material is sold in a kit - in one container directly the soil, in the second - the activator. At the same time, the required amount of soil is mixed with the activator in a 1: 1 ratio, without the addition of a diluent, then filtered through a paper funnel, and applied in a thin even layer on the bare metal. Do not worry if the mixture falls on the old coating, or on the applied and rubbed putty. In this case, nothing terrible will happen, it is important to remember that it is not possible to apply to the acidic primer either a conventional 2k polyester filler or a sprayed 2k (plastic syringe, liquid putty, and only secondary soil should be applied, but before this, let the primer ground).
When it comes to acidic soil, there are names such as phosphating, etching, reactive primer. In this article, we will examine whether there is any difference between these products or whether they are different names for the same kind of soil. We will understand when and how "acid" soil is used and what is the difference between one-component and two-component acid compositions.
Acid primer, pickling the metal, cleans it and slightly changes the surface to improve further adhesion of the filling soil, and also provides conversion of shallow rust. The etching primer does not remove, but stops the corrosion from spreading. It is important to remove all rust as thoroughly as possible. On the remains, which can not be removed, and affects the acid soil.
Acidic, phosphating, etching or reactive primer?
All these names, one way or another, designate the soil, which contains acid. In English, there are three different names for acid soils, which are also indicated on packages sold in Russia. Etch or etching primer is an etching primer, etching primer with ingredients that immediately after the action of the acid are eaten into the metal, creating an anticorrosion protection, wash primer is a reactive primer that also contains acid and, in theory, is intended for applying to a new metal that does not contain old fillers and paints, to increase adhesion (especially non-ferrous metals, for example, aluminum).
Some acidic soils are not strong enough to act on steel. It is necessary to look at the technical characteristics of the product.
Different manufacturers have different soil formulas and instructions for use. Originally, the herbaceous soils did not contain components that enhance corrosion protection and, moreover, fillers filling small irregularities. Now you can find acid soils of different manufacturers, which contain and anti-corrosion additives and can be simultaneously filling. Most often, however, a good acid soil is able to act chemically on any metal, preparing it for the next layer of filling soil, and also converts a small amount of hard-to-clean rust and passivates the metal surface, making it not active to oxidation, and hence to corrosion.
Reactive ground (Wash primer)
The reactive primer (Wash primer) and acidic soils are similar in their effect. Wash primer is applied only to clean metal. It does not fill the risks and small irregularities and requires the obligatory application of acrylic primer over it. Wash primer is an orthophosphoric acid in a solution of polyvinyl butyral polymer, isopropyl alcohol and other ingredients. Such a primer is applied in a thin layer, creating a dry film, 8-13 microns thick. This primer makes the painting process more efficient and adds anti-corrosive properties to the metal. In the future, during operation, even with a slight damage to the paint and varnish layer, the metal treated with reactive primer will not rust.
This soil will passivate the metal before applying the filler. The surface of the metal becomes inactive to oxygen contained in air and water. A very thin film is created, it goes into a passive state, and corrosion processes are inhibited. Also, a good base is created for applying the next layer of filling soil.
Wash primer is usually recommended to apply to aluminum and other metals to improve adhesion followed by coating. On aluminum and galvanized metal, without preparation by this primer, the coating does not hold well.
Self-etch primer
If the package says Self-etching, it is a filling acidic soil with zinc additive. The acid corrodes metal, and zinc is immediately eaten into it. The acid is usually orthophosphoric. Self-etching primer is designed to improve the adhesion and smoothing of uneven metal surfaces. This soil phosphates and ground the surface at the same time. First, a chemical reaction of the acid with the metal occurs, and then the polymer and anticorrosive pigments form a protective film upon drying.
One-component acidic primer
A one-component acidic primer does not require the addition of an activator. Such a primer is sold both for application by a spray gun and in spray cans.
Acid primer does not contain fillers and when dried gives a very thin layer.
One thin layer is sufficient. The application of a thick layer or several thin layers of one-component acid soil will not make it more efficient.
It must be remembered that any one-component product is in a non-stable (not hardened) state and can have an effect on the next coating layer. Immediately after drying, the acidic primer should be coated with a two-component (with hardener) acrylic filling primer.
Two-component acidic primer
The two-component acidic primer must be mixed with the activator to use.
Acid primer with hardener is applied 1-3 layers (depending on the manufacturer's recommendations), 5 minutes of drying between layers at room temperature, or when they become frosted.
From experience, it can be said that two-component acid soils better transform the rust residue left after cleaning and give better protection against corrosion.
If 2K acidic soil dries more than 6 hours, then before applying the filling primer or paint it must be sanded for painting.
What is the acidic soil composed of?
Acid primer is a transparent composition, with a shade of gray or light green colors.
As already mentioned, the composition of acid soils can differ from each other, depending on the manufacturer and have different proportions.
The basic polymer is usually polyvinyl butyral, phosphoric acid (small amount), isopropyl alcohol, zinc chromate (or zinc phosphate), talc (about 2%) and other additives are also present in the composition.
Zinc chromate is a component that increases the corrosion protection of metal. In the etching soil, orthophosphoric acid reacts with the metal, while zinc chromate does not chemically interact with the metal. In fact, zinc chromate can be added to soils with various polymers, such as epoxy, polyurethane. It adds anti-rust properties to the product to which it is added.
In some countries, the zinc chromate chemical reagent is banned due to its high toxicity, so other components of such action are contained in the soil.
Why use acidic primer?
- The original panels in the factory are galvanized and coated with electrodeposition to provide protection against corrosion. When repairing the surface, ground to metal, they lose their protective properties. Thus, in order to guarantee excellent anticorrosive properties, it is necessary to apply an etching primer.
- In the presence of a small amount of non-cleanable rust, it is also possible to apply acid primer.
- In the presence of a structure or part with a clean metal and hard to reach places for abrasion, it is possible to apply an acidic primer in preparation for applying a subsequent layer of acrylic primer.
- Before priming with secondary soil and painting of non-ferrous metals, it is recommended to increase adhesion with a wash primer.
The "competitor" of acidic soil is epoxy primer. You can read about the differences of these soils and the intricacies of application.
How to apply acid primer?
- It is important to thoroughly shake and mix the soil before use.
- Spray the soil at a temperature of +10 to +32 degrees Celsius.
- Before applying phosphating primer, the surface must be thoroughly degreased. It is better to do this with rubber gloves to avoid accidentally leaving prints.
- To create a good adhesion to the metal, you need to apply a wet layer of acid soil.
- It is better that the thickness of the film does not exceed 8 microns, otherwise adhesion deteriorates. Usually just one wet layer is enough.
- By technology, the acidic soil is effective on the "bare" metal. Getting a small amount of this soil on the old paint or putty will not create a problem.
- After applying acidic soil, wait about 10-20 minutes until the soil dries, and apply a secondary primer.
- Before applying an acrylic filling primer, grinding is not required.
Is it possible to apply paint to the acid soil?
The main rule is that the acidic primer should be topped with a secondary acrylic primer. Some acidic two-component soils (self etch primer), combining the functions of both acid and filling composition, can be immediately coated with paint.
If a layer of paint is applied to a single-component acid primer, one of the problems may be the effect of the yellow pigment of the primer on the paint. It can affect the color of the paint. Always check with the manufacturer's instructions.
Restrictions
Do not apply epoxy primer to the acid primer.
Never before used acidic soil. From other painters he heard that when used it gives very harmful to health evaporation and that's why I never contacted him.
Although it was clear that such a primer is very useful in painting, as it prevents the appearance or growth of rust under the paint. But at me painting budgetary, therefore I whenever possible simplify it on technology. As it is possible to act for example with a rust if we do not prefer high quality repair. You can "gnaw" it with a Bulgarian, or, if it still partially remains in the form of individual points, proceed as follows. Break through the area with rust "in-the-inside" and put it in place with glass paddles. Then rust will come out not in a year, but only after two or three years.
Where could she go?
Although there is a good and right way to deal with rust - is cutting out a piece of metal and vvrivanie instead of it a new one. This is the surest way, but it is related to welding. Not all painters are welders.
Therefore, for them an acidic soil was invented.
We bought the most expensive acid primer (SPIES HECKER Priomat 4075) to actually test its anticorrosive properties. Used it when restoring the car VAZ 09 in places where, after erasing, there are still separate points of rust. They can stay because they are sitting in the depths of metal, in the shells. If you clean out such rust points mechanically to the end, some points can turn into through holes. An acidic primer was also used to process the welding points.
What else became clear in the fight against such points, if this occupation is at the professional level - you need to acquire the most powerful means for cleaning the surface from rust - sandblasting. And nothing else.
Returning to my first experience of application acid soil that I found out for myself.
1. Got a lot of extra work, this is a new level of approach to painting and welding. Ie the technology of preparation of a surface under painting, under a puttying, etc. changes. The work becomes more time consuming and more time-consuming.
2. Even at first glance, a novice user - the acid primer of this company is a very strong tool. The hands soiled with this ground were washed only on the third day.
3. Using this expensive acid primer makes sense when you fully comply with the technology. For example, when processing new welds, very careful (to a white napkin) their degreasing. And how often do you do this?
4. The primer can be applied with a simple brush on the weld seams (this is simple) and can be applied by spraying - when the area is large or it needs a smooth, for subsequent painting. This requires a pistol and "air". With the fact that before the painting is still far away ..
. Why did I write about this simple truth.
Instead of using a pistol for such local tints, I again use my "from a hand pump." That's when finally "my invention" found a very worthy application.
5. The rule for the user of the acid. Acidic primer in all cases of its application must necessarily overlap with a two-component full fill primer. And only then possible padding, secondary priming and painting. No other material, except for the ground-insulator, should fall on the acidizer. You can try for yourself to find out whether instead of poronavolnatelya from his native firm to use any acrylic primer of another company. While I guess that you can. The company's filler from the company (SPIES HECKER) has an excessively high cost - about 50 euros.
We may supplement the recording.
- a pledge that the body of your car will not rust and be corroded for a long time. However, do not forget that the color pigment, which is visible to everyone, only the finishing layer - the machine is previously covered with a special tool - soil. They are primary, those that are applied directly to the metal frame, and secondary. Our focus will be on acid or pickling soils. How to choose the right soil, what kind of acid soils for a car are, the fineness of their application and the rating of manufacturers' brands - that's what we are going to discuss with you today.
Surely you've heard names such as wax primer, reactive, pickling or acid primer, phosphating primer is the name of one vehicle treatment tool. The main component of this substance is phosphoric acid. Interacting with other chemical constituents, the acid forms a strong film and protects your transport from the influence of external factors. The main property of this tool is.
Acidic primer is applied only to the metal parts of the body.
It should be noted, the ground can be applied to all metal parts of the car, including those that are made of:
Do not apply epoxy-acid primer for auto on parts on a polyester base.
- of stainless steel;
- chrome and galvanized parts;
- aluminum auto parts;
- welding seams.
Do not apply epoxy-acid primer for auto on parts on a polyester basis, soil components will damage the protective coating of the product, which will lead to the need to redo the work.
Main characteristics of the soil:
- high degree of resistance against the effects of water and salt;
- acid constituents allow the medium to penetrate deeply into the metal;
- high degree of resistance to mechanical stress;
- not subject to the influence of other chemicals.
A high degree of adhesion (penetration) of acid primers allows them to be applied with a thin layer.
There are two types of acid soil:
- one-component primary. The main difference of this tool is the absence of the need to add a catalyst (activator);
- two-component primary. Mandatory component - hardener.
Primer application
Application of acidic soil from balonchik
According to the technology of vehicle painting, the primer is applied to the car in several stages. Acid primer refers to the means of primary processing. Therefore, it must be applied to the primer secondary and only after it dries to apply a coat of paint.
Please note that the following steps must be taken before applying the reactive primer:
According to the technology of vehicle coloring, the primer is applied to the surface in several stages.
- clean the metal frame from the old painting;
- to carry out surface leveling;
- remove dirt and dust from the treated frame;
- thoroughly degrease.
Apply an acid primer with a thin layer, not missing a millimeter of surface. Only careful application of the product guarantees high-quality corrosion protection.
Safety precautions
An etching primer is a highly toxic, combustible substance!
Be sure to adhere to the following rules:
- do not apply primer to the surface near open flames or other sources of heat;
- be careful not to get on the skin, mucous membranes;
- protect the respiratory system from the evaporation of the soil;
- use personal protective equipment: gloves, respirator, dense clothing, shoes.
Methods of applying reactive soil
Application of acid primer with a spray gun in the paint chamber.
There are several ways to apply a reactive primer to the surface being treated:
The most accessible ways of applying acidic soil are with a brush, spray gun or a balonchik.
- using a paint brush;
- application by spray gun (spraying method);
- dipping into the priming solution;
- spraying from a can with a primer;
- using the technology of electrodeposition;
- treatment by electric current.
The last two methods, as well as applying a primer by dipping, are often used in large enterprises. In garage conditions it will be more convenient to use a brush, a spray gun or a can.
Choose a primer
First of all, we draw your attention to the fact that you can not save on this tool. As such, the rating of acid soils for cars does not exist, because the choice depends on several factors:
- quality of acid soil. The use of a poor quality product is fraught with problems with the coloring of the machine, the rapid corrosion of the carcass;
- brand means. Each primer has voyuyu temperature and the duration of drying, compatibility with surfaces, etc.
Not unimportant condition of the quality of the primer will be the expiry date. Whichever "brand" is your primer, if the service life of it has expired, it is better not to take risks. Otherwise, the result will not be positive. When studying brands of manufacturers, it is better to choose the proven means.
We hope that at least a little helped you to understand the question - what is the acid soil for the car, and how to apply it.