The kitchen, like no other room at home, needs efficient ventilation. After all, not only does the level of humidity increase due to cooking, but gas emissions also occur. In this article we will consider what should be the ventilation in the kitchen with a gas stove, the options for different air exchange schemes and their features.
General information
If there is no ventilation in the kitchen or it does not work effectively, this can lead to a number of negative consequences:
- As a result of high humidity on the walls, mold will start to appear.
- Fat and soot will settle on the surface of the finish and furniture, accordingly, the room will quickly lose its attractive appearance and become unusable.
- The smells of food and burning during cooking will be distributed throughout the housing.
In addition, as already mentioned above, when gas burners operate, gas emissions occur that poison the human body. Thus, effective ventilation is primarily the safety of tenants of a house or apartment, as well as the durability of kitchen furniture and finishes.
Therefore, the requirements for ventilation of the kitchen with a gas stove are the most stringent - the normative air flows here should be at least 70 cubic meters per hour.
Ventilation device
The construction of any house involves the device of ventilation, which is planned for the stage of its design. As a rule, ventilation holes are located not only in the kitchen, but also in the bathroom, as well as in the toilet. However, during the operation of the house the system is clogged and the efficiency of air exchange is reduced.
Therefore, tenants have to think about additional measures that will ensure the inflow and outflow of air. For this, first of all, it is necessary to understand what are the schemes of ventilation systems. In fact, they can all be divided into four types:
Natural ventilation
This scheme is found, as a rule, in houses of old construction. With this system, it is necessary to check the thrust regularly.
There are two ways to do this:
- Always under the ceiling is a grill for ventilation in the kitchen. You need to attach a piece of paper to it. If it sticks, then there is traction and ventilation works well.
- You can bring a lighted match or a lighter to the grate. In the presence of traction, the flame must deflect into the system.
If such a check shows that the ventilation is faulty, you can try to remove the grate and clean it of dirt and dust, and also clean the air duct, which is located in the access zone. If these actions do not help, you need to seek the help of specialists.
Often there are cases that, in the presence of traction in the system, air exchange in the kitchen is still inadequate. In this case, it is necessary to equip the room.
Advice! To prevent the airflow from turning, use a check valve to ventilate the kitchen. This device also allows you to overlap the system if necessary and adjust the intensity of the flow.
Extraction
The exhaust ventilation system in the kitchen is one of the most common. First of all, it should be said that it can be of two types:
- General - instead of a ventilation grill, a fan is installed, which pumps air flows into the air duct.
- Local - an exhaust (exhaust) device is installed above the cooker, which with the help of a fan draws out all the emissions of fat, steam and gas, preventing them from spreading through the room.
The most effective is ventilation in the apartment in the kitchen with a hood. Most often it is a design of a dome shape, which is connected to a common ventilation by means of an air duct.
The cross-section of the air duct for ventilation in the apartment in the kitchen can be square or round. The most common is the air duct 130x130 mm. If its axis is offset from the axis of the vent hole, then the connection is carried out by means of a corrugated pipe. The hood itself can be attached to a wall or a hanging cupboard.
To get the polluted air out of the room, the net must come from somewhere. If the kitchen has plastic windows, then certainly there are problems with the influx of clean air.
Solve this problem will help the supply valve, which can be installed with their own hands in the wall.
In addition to providing fresh air access to the room, this device, like the non-return valve, performs some other functions:
- Allows you to adjust the intensity of incoming airflow.
- It filters incoming air.
- Allows you to close ventilation in the kitchen if necessary.
After installing such a valve, the efficiency of air exchange will increase even more.
Advice! If the apartment has a kitchen with a projection of ventilation, you can visually hide it with the help of a cabinet. The best option in this case is custom-made furniture.
Supply air
Supply ventilation in itself in the kitchen is rare. As a rule, it works in conjunction with the extractor, resulting in a supply and exhaust system.
If the hood is not present, before installing the supply equipment, you need to make sure that there is good traction in the common system. Otherwise, the polluted air will mix with the clean air and be distributed to other housing areas.
If the outflow of air is organized well, it is easiest to ensure a forced influx with a special fan. This device looks like a supply valve.
The most advanced models of fans are equipped with temperature and humidity sensors, so they can work automatically. Some of them even have the function of heating the air. Despite the fact that the price of such devices is higher, they are an advantageous acquisition, since they allow to reduce the cost of heating in the winter.
The installation instructions for these fans are quite simple:
- First you need to determine the location where the fan will be located, and drill a hole in the wall along the diameter of the device's pipe.
- Then you should install the device in the hole and mark the space between the wall and the branch pipe.
- On the outside of the wall, you need to install a protective grille.
- After this, according to the manufacturer's instructions, the device is connected to electricity.
This completes the installation of the device. The most difficult thing in this operation is to drill a hole of the desired diameter.
Advice! The ventilation of the kitchen in a private house is usually planned for the construction phase. In this case, the best option is the general supply and exhaust system. The project of such ventilation should be performed by specialists.
Conclusion
You can provide effective air exchange in the kitchen in a variety of ways. The most common option is an exhaust system with a local hood above the stove. If all the conditions of its implementation are met, such ventilation will ensure comfort and safety of staying in the kitchen during cooking.
From the video in this article, you can podcherpnut some additional information on this topic.
The design of ventilation and exhaust systems for kitchen facilities, in fact, is very simple. Nevertheless, there are many nuances, ignoring which, we have all chances to create incorrect and inefficient ventilation. Ventilation, which, instead of purifying the air, will, in the literal sense, poison our lives.
Natural ventilation of the kitchen and the law of conservation of air volume
Long gone are the days when residents of private houses and city apartments were satisfied with the natural ventilation of kitchen facilities. Despite the relatively low efficiency of such systems (especially during cooking), the principles of their arrangement will always be relevant. The fact is that the continuous functioning of natural ventilation is possible only if certain conditions are met. Namely: ventilation ducts must ensure unimpeded removal of air masses from the room, while the influx of fresh air into the kitchen should be continuous.
Effective operation of the ventilation system is possible only when the volume of air leaving the room is equal to the volume of air entering the kitchen.
Ensure compliance with the first condition can be timely cleaning and maintenance of ventilation ducts. The fulfillment of the second condition is possible when using the simplest intake devices in the ventilation system.
Squirrel User FORUMHOUSE
It is always possible to cut a supply valve into the wall, which will enhance natural ventilation.
Just a couple of decades ago, most of the living quarters were equipped with wooden windows. Their tightness, as we know, left much to be desired. Therefore, the issue of fresh air to the apartment or house was solved practically without the participation of a person. Today, when we are dealing with sealed double-glazed windows and powerful kitchen hoods, the supply air valve, built-in the construction of a plastic window or mounted in a wall, is not a whim, but an absolute necessity.
The simplest intake-and-exhaust ventilation by one's own hands
If your house or apartment has a system of natural ventilation with an exhaust port in the kitchen, then the appearance of the smell of patties in the bedroom is practically not threatened. If your house is only being built, then take care of the availability of such a system - it's about time. Operating in the regular mode, it will constantly update the air in the kitchen, and if it is not efficient enough, it can always be improved by equipping a small exhaust fan.
If you live in a private house, the roof fan installed in the ventilation duct will help to modernize the system design without creating noise during operation.
Andrey Vasilyev User FORUMHOUSE
If the private house, then the problem is solved simply by installing a roof fan. Let him rustle in the street.
If you live in an apartment, the fan installed in the vent will qualitatively improve the flow of fresh air into the room.
Hel User FORUMHOUSE
When I turn on the usual fan built into the vent in the kitchen, even with the door open, the smell goes into the ventilation.
A good solution can be a channel fan that can significantly increase the power of the exhaust flow.
Using these devices, you can turn natural ventilation into a simple supply-and-exhaust system.
Rules for creating air ducts
The system of natural ventilation, in which there are no auxiliary fans, can play a cruel joke on you at any moment. This is a physical phenomenon, such as "overturning traction". It is observed when, under the influence of external factors, the exhaust flow loses its force or completely changes its direction (air from the street begins to flow into the room through the ventilation shaft). Therefore, it is advisable to bring the ventilation duct to the roof, while its height should exceed the height of the ridge. This rule is relevant both for natural ventilation and for systems with forced air removal.
Matilda User FORUMHOUSE
Overturning thrust often happens in the off-season, when the street is wet and dank. If the vent pipe is installed below the ridge, the overturning will become a permanent phenomenon and will depend on the direction of the wind.
The pipe and duct, which will pass through cold places (attic and outside the building), should be insulated.
The ventilation duct, which is led to the street through an ordinary horizontal hole in the wall, because of the lack of pressure difference inside and outside the building, will only function if the fan is on.
Kitchen hoods
We examined the features of systems that function continuously and are designed to provide efficient air exchange in the kitchen. Now let's talk about the kitchen hoods - devices that are included in the work during the "hot" hours, helping us get rid of the smell of cooking on the stove.
Kitchen exhaust, in contrast to the standard ventilation system, helps to catch smoke, steam and particles of fat that get into the air during cooking. Therefore, the need to install an exhaust system in addition to the existing ventilation system is obvious.
Arsenal & Natalya User FORUMHOUSE
Extraction is needed, if the kitchen does not want to often make repairs. There are no miracles, and without removing the evaporation products outside they settle on walls, on the ceiling, on furniture and people.
So, the hood in the kitchen is needed, but what kind of hood should I use?
According to the principle of operation, the hoods are divided into flow and recirculation. The flow of air from the room to the street, while recirculation - filter out the impurities and return air back to the room.
It is evident that recirculation exhaust devices are not popular among users of our portal. And there are several reasons for this: the need for frequent replacement of filter elements, low efficiency and inability to remove excess heat from the room.
Andrey Vasilyev
The sense of this drawing is not enough (my house is only because I'm too lazy to pull the pipe). Fat quickly accumulates on the walls and is very difficult to wash (especially if the house is made of wood). If you are puzzled about installing the hood, which is very useful (especially if you like fried fish, meat and other grills), then you need to get to the ventilation duct (just outside through the wall I do not recommend, because the wall will get dirty with time).
Given all the shortcomings of recycling facilities, they should only be used in exceptional cases.
The flow-through extracts the impurities generated during cooking, outside the room. By the method of installation, flow-through hoods can be suspended, built-in, angled, domed and island. Regardless of the type of installation the extractor is used for, the airflow from the room must be organized according to the same principle. It consists in the fact that the existing extractor should be connected only to a separate ventilation duct.
Connect the hood to a common ventilation duct, and even more so to the chimney - it's forbidden! Carbon monoxide and exhaust air can then return to the room.
Matilda
Extraction from the stove can never be combined with anything. And the duct from the plate must go upright.
In houses with outdated types of ventilation systems, an isolated duct for extractor connection is usually not available. And since you can not remove the hood into the common ventilation shaft, an additional ventilation duct must be created in a separate order. A suitable, but ineffective solution in this case is the purchase of a recycling plant.
If you are not afraid to spoil the facade of your house (apartment) with stains from grease, soot and steam, then you can draw a separate horizontal channel for drawing in the wall. The outlet vent will be located directly on the outer surface of the wall. It is desirable to equip a similar design with a non-return valve (if its availability is not provided in the design of the hood itself) or inertial grating.
shmendel User FORUMHOUSE
A valve with a drive is good, but the hoods usually have check valves. It remains only to ensure that the air does not blow directly into the duct (help inertial grids, for example, or deflectors).
Ideally, the duct for drawing should be created according to the same principles as other ventilation channels are created. Namely: in order to ensure that the duct provides natural traction when the hood is turned off, it should be brought to the roof of the house (just above the ridge).
Particular attention should be paid to the insulation of the air duct in the attic and on the street, which will prevent condensation.
Matilda
Ducts that will be laid in the attic, wrapped with cotton wool.
As for ventilation outlets: it is advisable to purchase ready-made products, which, according to existing standards, are insulated at the manufacturing stage.
Duct material
The duct material used to connect the cooker hood must meet the following conditions:
- Create minimal resistance to air flow.
- Have high corrosion resistance.
- Have a sufficient area of the internal section.
Taking into account the first condition, a flexible corrugated pipe, whose walls have a sufficiently high resistance, it is recommended to use only for connecting the hood with the ventilation duct.
Corrugated, if possible, it is preferable to replace the smooth galvanized pipe with a circular or square section.
To prevent rust from destroying the airway, many people are trying to incorporate plastic sewer pipes with a thick section into its design. But this material tends to accumulate fatty deposits, while it is not safe to call such pipes. Their use can lead to a fire (it is only necessary to ignite the oil on a hot frying pan while the hood is running). It is for this reason that the use of sewage pipes should be abandoned in advance.
Matilda
The plastic is by no means applied to the hood from the cooker. Even aluminum can not. Only zinc-plated or stainless steel.
That's what our users say about the cross-section of pipes designed to create ventilation ducts.
Smart2305 User FORUMHOUSE
With hoods, the connection is 150 mm. The diameter of the pipe in the riser should be - 200 mm (square equivalent).
Power calculation
Choosing a hood for your own kitchen, each of us thinks about what should be the power of this device. In all cases, this indicator depends on the area of the kitchen. If the area of your kitchen is less than 10m² (inclusive), and the height is 2.5-2.7 m, then the hood, letting through 280-350 m³ of air in one hour, can fully satisfy your needs. If the kitchen area is larger, then the power of the device should be appropriate.
In principle, this parameter can be learned from the sellers, and you can calculate by yourself using the formula: V = S * H * 10 * 1.3. In it: S and H are the area and height of the room, V is the volume (m³ / h).
The installation of gas stoves in residential buildings is provided in the premises of kitchens with a height of at least 2.2 m, having a window with a window (transom) or a design of a louver type, an exhaust ventilation duct and natural lighting.
The entire ventilation duct is sealed and accessible for cleaning. It is removed above the roof not less than 0.5 m from the base and at the top is supplied with a deflector.
At the same time, the internal volume of the room should be for a gas cooker with 2 burners - 8 m 3; pg; with 3 burners - 12 m 3; with 4 burners - 15 m 3. In agricultural settlements it is allowed to reduce the height of the kitchen to two meters, while the kitchen should be with natural light, and the area is increased 2 times compared to the required.
If these requirements can not be met, the installation of gas stoves in such premises can be made in each specific case in consultation with the local sanitary supervision authority and the local gas supervision authority.
Installation of the slab should be provided against a wall of non-combustible materials at a distance of at least 6 cm from the wall. It is allowed to install the plate near walls of difficult combustible and combustible materials, insulated with non-combustible materials (roofing steel on an asbestos sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm, plaster, etc.) at a distance of at least 7 cm from the walls. The insulation is provided from the floor and should protrude beyond the plate dimensions by 10 cm from each side and not less than 80 cm from the top. For gas stoves without thermal insulation on the side walls of the oven, the distance between these walls and the wooden walls of various furniture must be at least 150 mm before the plate leave a passage of at least 1 m. To catch combustion products and vapors released from cooking, over the gas stove is allowed installation of a small umbrella with a filter and a ventilation pump that removes polluted air into the ventilation duct.
2.7.2. Requirements for the installation of heating equipment
For heating and hot water supply, we provide heating boilers designed to work on gas fuel.
According to DBN В.2.5-20-2001 in one room of residential buildings it is not allowed to install more than two capacitive water heaters or two small-sized heating boilers or two other types of heating gas equipment.
Gas burners of heating gas equipment installed in residential buildings are equipped with safety and regulation automatics that meet the requirements of section 11 of DBN B.2.5-20-2001.
Installation of gas heating equipment with a total heat output of up to 30 kW can be provided in the kitchen (regardless of the presence of a plate and a flow-through water heater) or in a separate room, the internal volume of the kitchen when installing heating equipment with flue gas to the chimney must be 6 m 3 more , provided for in 2.7.1.
The combustion products can be withdrawn from heating boilers up to 30 kW in thermal power through a chimney or through the outer wall of the building.
When installing heating boilers must comply with such requirements:
- The distances from the building structures of rooms to household gas stoves and heating gas equipment should be provided in accordance with the manufacturer's certificates, fire safety requirements, ease of installation, operation and repair and in accordance with the requirements of DBN B.2.5-20-2001.
The installation of wall-mounted gas equipment for heating and hot water supply should include:
On walls of incombustible materials at a distance of at least 2 cm from the wall (including from the side wall);
On walls of combustible and combustible materials, insulated with non-combustible materials (roofing steel on an asbestos sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm, plaster, etc.) at a distance of at least 3 cm from the wall (including from the side wall).
The insulation should support the dimensions of the equipment housing by 10 cm and by 70 cm from the top.
The distance in the light from the protruding parts of the gas equipment along the front and in the passages must be at least 1 m.
When resolving the issues of the possibility of connecting gas appliances with flue gas to the chimney, and also the discharge of combustion products through the outer wall of the building, the data given in Appendix D of DBN B.2.5-20-2001 should be followed.
In this project, we select heating equipment with a hermetic combustion chamber, in which the intake of combustion air and the removal of gas combustion products are made through the outer wall of the building.