Construction and repair by own hands

A box under the sewer pipe behind the toilet. How to hide communications in the bathroom: an overview and comparison of available methods

If located in the bathroom and strongly visible communications spoil the interior of the room, then this is not a problem. Find out how to close the riser in the bathroom, and start work.

In order not to mask the numerous and long pipes, make a plan of all communications in advance and try to arrange them and the plumbing so that in the end all utilitarian details remain as inconspicuous and hidden from the eyes. But still, this is probably not always the case, and often it is completely impossible to hide the riser. But such a problem is not as complicated as it seems if you know the ways to solve it.

Ways of masking the riser

So how can you close the riser in the bathroom? You can do this in a variety of ways:

  •   Masking in the walls. In this way, you can hide the riser only at the stage of its installation. And the work is very difficult and time consuming, be prepared for this. First you need to compile and transfer to the wall the layout of all communications. Then with the help of a perforator it is necessary to make grooves, slightly exceeding the diameter of the pipes. Next, the stems are laid pipes. Then the entire surface close drywall sheet   , Chipboard, plywood or PVC panels to make a kind of false wall. Fill the grooves with concrete is not recommended, with breakage and dismantling, you can severely damage the riser.
  •   Cupboard. Yes, you can hide the riser in the closet. And you can buy a finished piece of furniture with a missing back wall and slots in the shelves, and make it yourself out of the ordinary. You will need to dismantle the back. Then, using a bit and drill, make holes in the shelves corresponding to the diameter of the pipes. This method will not only hide the riser, but also provide an additional space for storing funds or hygiene items.
  •   The box is the most common way of masking communications. It is convenient because you can buy a ready-made construction in the sanitary ware shop of the right size. It is easy to install, so that its installation is not difficult. In addition, there are different versions of shapes and configurations: triangular, rounded, rectangular boxes, as well as consisting of one or more levels.
  •   Drywall partition. To mount it, you must first install a strong frame, which is usually made of galvanized profiles. Although some use wooden beams, this material requires additional treatment with waterproof and antifungal agents. Further on the frame are attached using self-tapping screws and plasterboard sheets themselves, and it is desirable to use moisture-proof ones, since the humidity in the bathroom is greatly increased. The next stage is finishing. You can use different materials, but the most practical and preferred are PVC panels and ceramic tiles.
  • Construction of plastic panels   . Plastic panels are practical, inexpensive, moisture resistant, light and relatively simple to install, since they have convenient joints. But the only drawback of their use is the total absence of noise isolation, through them any sounds will penetrate. If this does not bother you, then proceed to work. First, install a frame that can be manufactured in the same way as for a gypsum board. But in this case it is desirable to use the metal profile. Install plastic panels on it. Places of joints can be disguised as corners.
  • Rolling Shutters will not only hide all communications from the eyes, but also leave unimpeded access to them. At any time, you can push the shutter to, for example, open or close the valve or eliminate any problems. The shutters are installed in the guides. In this case, the riser itself should be located in the recess so that it does not interfere with the movement of the shutter. And along the edges of such a recess the frame of the future construction is being mounted. Currently, you can buy special shutters designed for bathrooms and toilets. They not only play the role of camouflage, but also perform hydro and noise insulation functions, as they are equipped with an additional internal coating.

Some useful tips:

  1. Do not use capital thick partitions. In this case, when the pipe or connecting parts are out of order, you will have to dismantle the structure, which is not easy.
  2. To be able to monitor and evaluate the status of the riser, do not close it completely. It is better to leave a small hole, it will make it possible to see all the pipes and even eliminate minor malfunctions. If you want, you can close the window with the door. And it should be of such magnitude that you could not only notice the problems, but also eliminate them, that is, have access to all the pipes.
  3. In order not only to hide the riser, but also to reduce the noise level created by water, it is possible to lay a layer of soundproof material between the structure and pipes,
  4. For masking use only moisture resistant materials, because the humidity in the bathroom is high. In addition, condensation may form on the pipes. And if this rule is neglected, then you will not only spoil the septum, but also provoke the development of mold.
  5. Before starting work, make sure all pipes are working properly. At the slightest leakage or cracks carry out repairs, but only then proceed to disguise. And do not forget to treat all joints with sealant.
  6. When installing the partition, leave the distance between it and the riser in case of safe installation. It should be about 3-4 centimeters.
  7. In order to repair the riser, do not dismantle the frame structure, and be able to remove only the skin (probably partially), do not place the profiles in the joints of pipe joints and the location of the valves.
  8. In advance, make measurements and draw a diagram of the location of all pipes and elements of the future design.

Following the advice given in the article, you can qualitatively and without problems close the riser.

Today, the open heating, water supply or sewer network is almost impossible to see. Neither in homes, nor in public organizations. They are safely hidden behind a skilful finish. In my own apartment, I also want to create an integral interior, hiding unsightly communications. How to close the riser? What are some of the finishing touches to pay close attention to? What materials should I use?

What and where will we hide?

The main heating, water and sewage pipes pass, as a rule, in a bathroom, a toilet or in the kitchen. They are much less likely to stay in living quarters. In describing the options, materials and stages of work, we will still focus on frequency cases.

To close the riser in the kitchen, in the bathroom or toilet, you need to observe the following stages of work:

  • prepare communication networks;
  • pick up materials;
  • close the riser by installing the frame and the base (for example, plasterboard);
  • finish.

Preparation of communication networks

Before closing the riser in the toilet, we check the serviceability of the sewer pipes.

1. All elements of the network and the riser must be complete, without the slightest cracks.

2. Sewage system should not have a specific odor. If the ambre is present, then joints, technological hatches must be processed around the perimeter with silicone sealant.

3. Old cast iron risers with corrosion-damaged areas should be replaced completely.

4. The places of passage of pipes through the floors should be well cemented.

Advice! In each diversion of the sewage network to the plumbing fixture or to another room it is recommended to install a bypass valve. He will not interfere with the draining of sewage. But in a clogging situation, it will block the pipe under the pressure of the backflow. That is, from the neighbors in our toilet, nothing will pour.

Before closing the riser in the bathroom, we check the quality of the water supply system.

1. There should be no corrosive marks on the pipes. If they are, rust should be removed and the pipeline covered with a moisture resistant paint. Strongly damaged by corrosion, cast-iron pipes are better than completely replaced with polypropylene pipes.

2. Water supply taps must be reliable and efficient. Threaded connections - complete. In order to avoid rusting the cranes under the influence of high humidity, mobile joints must be treated with an anti-corrosion compound.

How to close the sewer in the toilet: ways

In an ordinary apartment with a separate bathroom, almost all the pipes are located in the toilet. Here, as a rule, there are counters, bends are made. And without that a small toilet is like a technical room. And the toilet here was completely accidental.

There are several ways to hide all this disgrace.

1. Construction of false wall.

One of the simplest and most common options is to completely close the riser in the toilet with plasterboard. It must be borne in mind that the falsehood takes away about half a meter of free space. The dressing room and so small, but after sewing the riser loosely sit on the toilet, not everyone will get it.

Exit - hanging toilet. The special frame on which the sanitary unit is attached and the drain tank will be hidden behind the plasterboard. This will save space.

Falsstena can be not only attractive, but also functional. If you equip free space with shelves, then you can store there household trivia.

Important! Where the valves and counters are located, you need to make a removable panel. It will, if necessary, take the readings of the instruments and cut off the water.

2. Construction of a square box.


This method is suitable if all pipes are in one corner. The box saves free space. And with this option, you need to leave the door opposite the counters and valves.

3. The equipment of an oblique false wall.


It goes at an acute angle to the side or back wall. It is advisable to address this method of masking the riser in the case when thinner pipes extend from the main pipe. The toilet should be slightly displaced aside.

4. Creating a multi-level box.


When the pipes are "scattered around the walls" of the toilet room, it is better to construct a multi-level structure. Each of its elements will cover a separate section of the network.

The box can be two-level, three-level. Of course, it is more difficult to build it. But the space is saved and the stands for important trifles are obtained.

How to close the sewer stand in the kitchen and bathroom?

To mask the riser in the kitchen or bathroom, all the above methods will work. For the kitchen, you can offer an additional option:

Hide the riser in the kitchen cupboard.


When selecting a headset, you can make sure that the sewer pipe passes inside the furniture. So the integrity of the interior will be preserved, and access to the network will be ensured.

The space of the pipe free from valves and counters can be equipped with shelves. They seem to be hugging the riser and creating a storage space.

Choice of materials

At this stage, we observe simple rules:

1. Do not build strong structures.

It is necessary to leave access to the riser. Sooner or later there will be a need to get inside. Therefore, we immediately refuse from bricks, monoliths, etc.

2. It is best to trim the riser with lightweight materials.

Optimum options - gypsum board or oriented chipboard.

3. The material should not be deformed from temperature changes and moisture.

Moreover, the frame, on which the skin will be fixed, should not fall on the joints of pipes.

Actually work

Everything is checked, invented, the materials are bought. Now the work itself.

1. Mounting the frame.

If an oriented chipboard is used for the cladding, then the frame is made of wooden blocks. For gypsum cardboard we use a metal profile. And how to close the riser in the toilet with plastic panels? Better on the wooden frame.

  • Set the level of vertical guides.
  • We fix the transverse bridges for stiffening. Step is determined by the size of the skin material, and also taking into account the dimensions of the inspection hatch.

2. Sheathing.

Drywall constructions are more suitable for plasterboard. To create a removable skin, it is preferable to use an oriented chipboard. It is stronger. And dismantling will not harm her.

3. Finishing.

On the cladding fastening tiles with glue, plastic panels by means of staples. You can just putty and paint.

Can I close the sewer pipe? Yes, you can, the main thing is to do it right. There are several ways to do this work.

  • Application of a false wall. This is the most capital way. In order to make it, you will need plywood or chipboard. We also recommend that you pay attention to drywall. Before installing the floor, completely remove all rust and paint the structure. Use galvanized profiles to make the frame of the false wall. Secure the profiles to the walls, then to the floor. Between the partitions should be a distance of 3 cm. Drywall is fixed to the frame by means of screws. A sewage pipeline hides in the box. This construction can be trihedral and tetrahedral. Sometimes multi-level boxes are mounted. This method is the best option if you close the riser in the bathroom. If you have a separate toilet, you can use wooden bars instead of galvanized profiles.
  • Plastic panels. This is a very practical material, which is not affected by external stimuli such as humidity, temperature changes, mold. They are also easy to disassemble and collect, no need to paint and putty. It is enough just to pick up the plastic panels of the required color. You will need to build a frame for the wall and the box, lay the panels.



  • Roller shutters. If you do not want to spend time on complicated ways, you can close the sewer pipes with roller shutters. They do not require finishing, they are easy to install, as these are ordinary blinds, and they open the maximum access to the riser. Now there are special designs, for example, with noise isolation and heat savings.


  • A box of plasterboard or plastic. Use a metal profile and simply coat it with plastic.
  • Wardrobe. This is an excellent option to disguise the valves, filters, counters and pipes and store cleaning products, household items. Make a frame of bars from a tree, fasten it with dowels to the walls of the toilet, install hinges and doors. For manufacturing of a locker the laminated particleboard and a plywood will approach.


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  1. For finishing works you need a moisture-resistant plasterboard. As additional protection the drywall is treated with linseed oil on the inside. To prevent the appearance of mold before installing wooden bars they must be treated with an antiseptic.
  2. All irregularities, cracks and cracks in the walls are sealed with a mounting foam.
  3. Roulette measures the future design.
  4. Based on the measurements, a schematic drawing of the structure is drawn up.
  5. Two guide profiles are mounted on the wall. The minimum distance from the profiles to the pipes should be 5 cm.
  6. Cross profiles are installed taking into account the openings for access to communications.
  7. Drywall sheets are cut according to the dimensions of the surfaces. Fastening to a skeleton is made by means of self-tapping screws.
  8. A hatch (door) for access is produced and then mounted on special hinges or hinges.
  9. The finished box is shpaklyuetsya and primed.
  10. The finished structure is covered with ceramic tiles.

For finishing, plastic panels are also ideal. All stages of work are identical to work with plasterboard. This kind of decoration is more convenient, since it does not need to be treated with insulating, finishing and other interior materials. \\

Results. Beautiful design solutions are not always as good as they seem at first glance. In order not to have to destroy a beautiful expensive construction, it is necessary to take into account possible repairs during operation in advance. Otherwise, it will be rather difficult to recreate the old interior using the same materials.

We often see neighbors, friends, hotel or office bathrooms that the water and sewer pipes are securely hidden by the decoration of the premises. Entering your own bathroom, you also want to see a complete picture of its interior without visible communications.

How to close the riser, is it so simple, what should you pay attention to and how then do not be disappointed in the work done? This will be further discussed.

Just note that the main sewage and water pipes of buildings do not necessarily pass in the bathroom. As a rule, they are laid through a toilet room or in a separate niche. In this case, there is no riser in the bathroom.

But if the bathroom is combined, then most likely, the general communications will pass through it or in a small technological niche of the room. In a private house it is reasonable to lay sewage and water supply systems in a separate small room, and from it to do wiring to specific rooms.

But still, consider the option when the riser is directly in the bathroom.

Stages of the riser design:

  1. Preparation of communications;
  2. Selection of materials for work;
  3. Closing the riser;
  4. Finishing work.

Preparation of communications

Before you start to work on improvement, you should check the serviceability of the sewerage and water supply.

Requirements for sewage pipes:

  1. Should be without the slightest cracks, otherwise immediately replace them;
  2. Absence of a specific smell of sewerage. If this is the case, then additionally treat joints and technological hatchways along the perimeter with silicone sealant;
  3. The places of passage of sewerage through the upper and lower floors should be tightly sealed with cement mortar.

Note!

In the place where the sewer is taken from the main pipe to the plumbing or to other premises, it is desirable to install a bypass valve.

It operates on a simple principle: it does not prevent draining of sewage, but in case of clogging of communications it blocks the internal cavity of the pipe under the pressure of the backflow of drains.

Five minutes installation and through your toilet bowl from the neighbors already do not flush.

Requirements for the water supply system:

  1. Water pipes should not have any signs of corrosion. If necessary, remove it and cover the pipeline with a moisture resistant paint.
      In addition, a polypropylene foam casing can be put on top - this eliminates the sudden temperature drop on the surface of the pipe and partially prevents the condensate from dropping out;
  2. Check the operation of the water supply valves and the integrity of the screw connections. To ensure that the cranes do not rust and do not corrode under the influence of moisture, treat the movable joints with the anti-corrosive compound Nanoprotek.

Selection of materials for work

Before closing the riser, it should be understood that unimpeded access to communications along the entire length of their passage must be ensured despite the planned design.

Otherwise, sooner or later, you will face the problem of destroying all your work on the riser design.

Rules for closing the riser:

  1. It is impossible to seal the riser with a brick, a monolith or other strong structures;
  2. Try to use lighter materials: plasterboard sheets (GCR) or oriented particle boards (OSB). You can and other lightweight materials. It is not recommended to use products deforming from moisture and temperature differences: furniture board, plywood, chipboard, fiberboard, etc .;
  3. Inspection hatches for water meters and valves must not only provide access to them, but also enable repair or replacement;
  4. The shell of the plating of the riser should not block access to the joints of sewage and water pipes. Otherwise, you have to dismantle it.

Note!

At the bottom of the riser is recommended to put a height of 20 cm, one small brick or concrete edge, which will prevent accidental spillage of water throughout the premises during forced repairs with water or sewage.

Closing the riser

Note!

When manufacturing self-made inspection hatches or installing removable (opening) panels, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the structure already with tiles or other finishing materials.

Otherwise, your product will warp under its own weight.

Instead of loops, you can use strong magnets.

Finishing work

Having dealt with how to repair the riser, you need to understand some of the features of the exterior finish of the resulting design.

If your assumes only a ceramic tile, then it is better to glue it to the skin with the "liquid nails" composition, pre-priming the surface.

To facilitate the weight of the structure, you can use moisture-proof panels made of cork, bamboo and other decorative materials.

It is important that even a collapsible riser does not stand out from the bathroom design concept.

Conclusion: Do not get carried away with the embodiment of a beautiful design solution, without providing for all the options for operating and repairing the bathroom. When you need to destroy the expensive finish, then it will be too late. After all, when recreating the old interior it will be difficult to pick up exactly the materials that you used before.