Fastening of a heater to a wall from a brick. Mineral wool laying - advantages materials and work stages

A house built of timber or logs has always been famous for its heat-insulating qualities. But what to do if you want to update the facade and give it a modern look? And what if the heat in the wooden house is not kept? With these problems, heaters for the facade of the house can easily cope.

As a rule, several factors contribute to the formation of large heat losses:

• incorrect joining of logs during construction, and as a result, the appearance of holes;
• loose fit grooves in the corners of the house;
• old wood, unable to maintain its physical qualities.

What to look for before warming the house

Carefully inspect the walls of the house, both outside and inside. The condition of the wood is the determining factor for further action.

Thermal insulation of the facade not only gives an aesthetic appearance, but also extends the life of the tree in half. Let's consider in detail all cases of house warming:

Warming of internal walls

If you have a wooden surface without any finishing, then the insulation must be carried out in several stages:

1. Secure the metal mesh to the wall using metal staples. It is better to choose a grid with cells from 20 to 50 mm. In places of joints of a metal tape, it is possible to fix it with a building scotch.
2. Preparation for applying heat-insulating plaster. Check the walls for bumps, swings and bends - in these places, the amount of solution should be increased.
3. Scatter the solution on the wall, then smoothly and smoothly move the wall. Set the level to 0, to which you will navigate. Seal all cracks and pits so that the entire surface of the wall is smooth and even.
4. Allow the solution to dry. The package with building compounds indicates the drying time - usually it is not less than 12 hours.
5. After the rough layer has dried, you can start applying the final layer of plaster. In order to obtain the desired consistency of the final solution, it is necessary to dilute the crude solution with two portions of water. Check the smoothness with the construction level: apply it to the wall in different directions.

What if the walls already have old plaster? Old houses often used shingles instead of metal mesh. If the plaster is unreliable and sypetsya, then it should be knocked down completely.  Although clay and perfectly keeps the heat, however, it is not advisable to fasten a new structure to the top of the old one.

Warming of external walls

There are various facades of the house. All of them differ in thermal insulation properties, degree of flammability and installation method.

Consider the most popular:

1. Polystyrene.  This material is very light and compact. Acceptable price, simplicity in installation and environmental friendliness are the main advantages of expanded polystyrene (polystyrene). Thanks to the production technique, it has a small thermal conductivity. The only disadvantage is the low vapor permeability.

Note:  it should be borne in mind that a wooden house breathes and lets in moisture, and expanded polystyrene, attached to a tree, will prevent evaporation, which can lead to dampness and mold.

2.   Ecowool.  The naturalness and environmental friendliness of the material combined with an acceptable price is an excellent option for new settlers! The structure includes only natural components of processing of wood and paper, which have good ventilating properties.

Due to the presence of impregnation of antiseptic and glue, eco-animals are not terrible for rodents and other insects. Studies on the thermal conductivity of cotton wool have been carried out: a layer of 10 cm of wool is equal to a wooden beam of 40 cm width. The advantage of wall insulation from the outside is obvious - the space saving inside the house is about 10% of the total area.

3. . Mineral wool is a natural insulation, which has the form of plates. It is convenient to mount, however, you should wear a construction mask during operation, since the mineral wool insulation has fine dust particles.

4. Brick or stone.  Ideal for those who love simplicity and reliability.

It should be remembered that for brick, an additional ribbon foundation is needed around the entire perimeter of the house.

Between the wooden house and the brickwork, it is necessary to leave a distance of 20 cm, for ventilating the facade, to avoid the appearance of black fungus.

Take into account:  since a brick or stone is the heaviest facade material, then the grid is fastened to the foundation from the reinforcement.

5. .   Natural insulation, having long and elastic fibers, glued to each other. It has good heat conductivity and low flammability. Flexible and light basalt, well protects the wooden house from drafts and freezing.

How to install correctly

In order to proceed with the warming of the walls, you will need the following tools:

• screwdriver (preferably battery, as you will have to move a lot);
• self-tapping screws with galvanized coating;
• roulette, building level and various rulers - corners;
• fastenings - umbrellas for a heater;
• jig saw with a blade for wood;
• metal profiles and corners.

The process of insulation is as follows:

Since siding in direct sunlight has the ability to expand, do not tighten the screws to the stop and leave a short distance between the profiles so that they can "walk" in hot weather. If this is not done, the plastic will begin to bend, which will lead to depressurization of the facade.

See the video in which the user in detail demonstrates the process of attaching the heater to the wooden wall:

Choosing the right insulation and purchasing it is only half the battle. Experts say that in some cases the correct placement of insulation on the walls can bring 90% of the result.  This means that if the work is performed incorrectly, the effect will be only 10% of the calculated.

Today buildings are most often. In this article, we will discuss the features of fixing thermal insulation materials by example. However, if you heat a room with other material, such as foam or foam, the article will also show the general principles of proper installation.

The principles inside or outside are similar in many respects. However, there are differences that need to be disassembled.

The installation of a heater on the walls inside is usually done with a crate. This is a frame, in the form of bars, which attach to the wall, and already in the formed cells are embedded heat insulation plates.

For external walls, the frame method is used less often. More often use fastening on glue-foam or glutinous structure with dowels. The frame is used externally only for facing the façade with soft stone wool slabs to reduce the load on the lower rows of the insulation. In this case, it is made of a metal profile or a wooden beam.

So, we have identified three ways how to mount a heater to the wall, which can be combined:

• Rims;
• Adhesive composition;
• Use of dowels.

Each of them has its advantages and disadvantages. Let's start in order.

Rims

The lining is used for ventilated facades. This is due to the fact that the soft insulation is not used in principle for "wet" facades. It does not have enough rigidity to withstand the required weight of the plaster layer.

If you plan to finish in the form of "Bark beetle" or "Lamb" go to the following methods. Obresthetku often used for insulation from the inside. There she fully justifies herself.

So, how is the crate done?

• Required! On the wall you need to lay stapler staples;
• The lower socle profile is screwed;
• On top of the vapor barrier, with the help of self-tapping screws, a thickness equal to the thickness of the insulation is screwed. The width of the beam should be actually equal to the width of the plate, but be less by 2-5 centimeters. The most common use of the step is a bar of 60 cm.
• After this, starting from the bottom in the crate, the mineral wool is laid.

Plates in the crate must sit tight. In this case, the cold will not be passed through the gap between the beam and the plate. But, this approach is not used so often. It is applicable first of all to wooden houses. Also, soft mineral wool plates necessarily require not only a vapor barrier inside, but a windproof layer from the outside. Otherwise, the wind will blow out. Installation wind protection is an additional cost, so more often use two other methods of attachment.

Putting the plates in the crate is the right way, when the question arises: how to fix the heater to the ceiling.

On the glue

As the only way to fix only glue mass is used rarely and only under ventilated facades. For plastering, additional reinforcement with dowel-umbrellas is necessary. However, this method has its own characteristics, which need to be considered separately.

First, there are two types of glue compounds:

• Dry mixes;
• Adhesive foam.

The dry mix is ​​sold in bags and requires dilution. Glue foam is sold in cans and does not require any preliminary preparation. The last is slightly more expensive, but the convenience is worth it.

Preliminary it is necessary to level the wall and as much as possible smooth out all irregularities, possibly plastering the surface.

It exposes the lower bar, which will be the starting point of the thermal insulation. The dry mix is ​​applied to the plate itself.

In the case of a dry mix, apply glue to the slabs in several pieces and spread evenly, using a comb spread over the entire surface. After that, the insulation plate is fixed on the wall. Usually the installation of mineral wool or other materials begins with a corner and necessarily with a lower row.

Adhesive foam is applied along the perimeter of the plate and several strips in the middle. After applying, press the plates to the plane. The foam freezes from 30 minutes to 2 hours. During this time, it is possible to slightly adjust the position of the plate using the level.

From dry mixes often apply:

• EK THERMEX;
• Ceresit CT 190;
• Ceresit CT180.

Popular foam options:

• Ceresit CT 84;
• Soudabond EASY;
• Insta STIK.

The cost of one cylinder is from 200 to 500 rubles.

The main principles of how to fix the insulation on the wall with the help of adhesive composition, we discussed. What exactly you can use to solve, after reading a couple of opinions.

When we decided, the master said that he would glue to the foam. We were indignant, they say, the mounting foam is expanding, but he said he would use glue-foam. He asked what to buy, good or simple. We said: "Good." Did not regret, after 30 minutes after gluing the sheet is not torn off. We decided to carry out the experiment and paste on it plates with the name of the street and the number. Everything is going well.

At large differences in the wall, it is recommended to use polyurethane foam, specifically for foam. It is also called "liquid foam plastic". If the curvature of the wall is one to three centimeters it is not a problem at all. I bought it at Epicenter a year ago, I stuck a sheet for the sake of interest - a year has passed, everything keeps, you can not tear off the sheet. Styrofoam breaks, but keeps.

On dowels

In 90% of cases the fixing of mineral wool and other materials to the wall takes place with the use of dowels.

It was described separately.

Now we simply will draw a sequence of works using this method.

First of all, if glue composition was first used to fix heat-insulating slabs, they should be well fixed. Most often, you can hold the fastening with dowels in 2-24 hours after gluing. A more accurate figure can be found from the instructions to the adhesive composition.

• Choose and buy an umbrella of the required length;
• Drill a hole in which the fastening element will be pounded;
• Insert the dowel into the hole;
• With the help of a hammer, we hammer an anchor (with plastic nails one must be especially careful with the force).

Our sheet is securely fixed.

In the case of laying mineral wool, namely its rigid plates, on the plates themselves, it is necessary to drill not only the holes, but also the round notches for the umbrella caps. Otherwise, these hats will protrude over the surface of the insulation, which will create difficulties in installing the finishing finishes.

The most popular ways how to insulate the heater to the wall we discussed. Reflecting on the difficulties and features of the mounting, more and more often choose another material for insulation - polyurethane foam. It does not need to be strengthened at all.

• If you use foam - moisten it with water before applying glue-foam. This will improve the adhesion (adhesion) of the foam and sheet.
• If the walls are insulated from the outside, there may be a slope - a ledge in the lower part of the wall of the house. In this case, the plinth profile can be omitted. Just lay the pile with waterproofing to avoid moisture entering the heat insulator.
• Insulation sheets should always be staggered. This is necessary for inconsistent seams. This fastening makes it possible to avoid cold bridges.
• Do not leave the fixed material on the wall unprotected. Fill the foam or hard stone wool or cover the soft plates with a windproof layer immediately. If the moisture gets into the insulation at the stage of installation - the material will be very poorly cope with its task.

We examined the general principles in how to mount a mineral wool or other thermal insulation. As you can see the mounting of the heater to the wall - the task is not trivial, but requires some skills.

Perhaps you still have questions, then welcome to ask them in the comments.

And one more trick:

You will need

• - a mineral wool heater;
• - building (industrial) stapler;
• - Staples (not less than 36);
• - knife;
• - a hammer.

Instructions

Make the construction of the racks. In it you will invest insulation.For this, mount the metal frame to which you will fasten the insulation panels. The process is not complicated: install metal or wooden slats across the walls. And attach the corners to the ceiling and the floor screws. They must be protected from walls  at a thickness of the layer of insulation (+1 cm). To the corners with screws or screws, fix the vertical slats at a distance of 60 cm.

Take a layer of mineral wool insulation (no more than 200x200 cm) and press it to the corner of the frame. Now with the help of a knife, cut through the places where insulation  It is attached to the frames of the frame.

Charge the stapler with staples. Begin to drive the staples from the upper corner. They must be perpendicular to the frame. At 1m2 insulation will need 20-30 staples. When you make sure that the layer is securely fastened, next to it, "seam in the seam" put another same layer. Cut out the places where insulation  Docking with stands, and again drive 20-30 staples. Repeat this procedure until you completely cover the entire area of ​​the frame. Now, over the insulation, pierce another layer of the same insulation, but its thickness should be proportional to 1/3 of the first layer.

Insert a piece of thin insulation into the upper corner and secure it with 10-15 staples. The adjacent layers put a "seam in the seam". Note that the staples must penetrate the first layer of insulation and securely press the second. 2 layers are needed in order to create a small layer of air, which will keep the cold. At the end, hammer the braces with the hammer, which loosely entered the frame.

Quite often people are engaged in the warming of the balcony. The heat on the balcony directly depends on the insulation used, as well as on the correct installation. This issue should be given special attention.

Instructions

First, cover the ceiling with one layer of penofol. Then cut the width of the balcony rail. There should be about 5-6 pieces. It is these racks that need to fix penofol on the ceiling. At this stage, leveling is not necessary. It is necessary only to tighten the self-tapping screws to the stop.

  6 September, 2016
Specialization: a master in the erection of plasterboard structures, finishing works and laying of floor coverings. Installation of door and window blocks, finishing of facades, installation of electricians, plumbing and heating - for all types of work I can give detailed advice.

Most often, developers are interested in how the insulation is fixed to the wall or ceiling, reading specialized resources on the Internet. But many sites offer information on the types of dowels for fastening or make reviews of adhesive compositions, and meanwhile fixing the insulating elements is a complex process, and it should be considered in a complex, rather than as separate fragments.

I'll tell you how to fix different types of insulation to various designs: the plinth, the walls, the ceiling and the attic, it is these types of work that are produced most often.

Overview of work options

I will make a reservation at once - I will not talk about all possible ways of fastening, but only the most simple and effective options that have proved their reliability among developers will be affected. Do not try to find a clever technology, the simpler the work process, the less the probability of errors and rejections.

Option number 1 - wall insulation

The question of how to mount a heater to a wall is one of the most popular, as this type of work is most often done and why it causes great difficulties among developers. We'll figure out what you'll need to carry out work when fixing the insulation for plastering:

Bending for fixing the heater	There are three versions of products: plastic products, elements with a metal nail and dowels with a metal nail and a thermal head. The length of the products should be 70 mm more than the thickness of the insulation to ensure a high-quality fixation of the elements. The plastic version can be used for a length of up to 120 mm, if more, then the strength will be insufficient, the nails in such products often break down
Adhesive composition	The market sells a lot of options for special adhesives for fixing thermal insulation. There is no particular difference between them, the main thing is that they fit the type of insulation that you choose. The composition should not be petrified, it is a sign that the storage conditions were violated, the quality of such mixtures is much lower
Mounting foam	It is needed when using foam and is used to fill the gaps that inevitably form when the material is attached. Usually it needs a little, but it all depends on how well the installation is made
Work tool	It is impossible to prepare glue without a container and a drill with a mixer nozzle, and it must be applied with a special spatula or float. In order to install umbrellas, you need to drill holes for them, so at hand there must be a punch with a drill of the correct diameter and length

I want to give you some tips on how to choose a quality fastener for a heater, or, as it is also called, a mushroom for thermal insulation:

• First of all, decide on the best option, above I wrote that purely plastic products can be taken at a length of up to 120 mm, if you need more options, you definitely need to buy dowels with a metal nail, as more durable. It is best to choose a variant with a thermal head, in which the cap is closed with a special plastic plug, which prevents the formation of cold bridges and eliminates the appearance of stains from corrosion on the surface;

• The length should be at least 70 mm more than the thickness of the insulation, that is, for polystyrene or mineral wool of 50 mm thickness, the best products are 10x120 mm. If you need to fasten heavy mineral wool to the wall of foam concrete, it is better to take the dowel more authentic, this will provide additional reliability, because the blocks are more fragile than brick or;
• When choosing a particular focus on the quality of plastic, the products should not bend too easily, but they should not be hard. Once I purchased a batch of rigid dowels, which, when clogged, broke through one, because the plastic was too fragile. Choose a golden mean, the rod should bend slightly at moderate effort;
• Metal nails should not show any signs of corrosion, ideally if the surface is covered with a layer of zinc. If the thermal head goes separately and is put on during installation, then check that it is normal on the bonnet.

Now we'll figure it out with the workflow, first I'll show the scheme, and below I'll write down every detail of it, so you can quickly figure out all the nuances:

• First of all, you need to level the surface, if it has cracks and damages, they must necessarily be closed. The more reliable the base is, the more permanently the thermal insulation will adhere. If sand is poured from the surface or it is too loose, then it must be strengthened with a deep penetration soil;
• To ensure that you do not constantly control the level of heat insulation and do not suffer from the fixing of the first row, it is easiest to attach the starting profile of metal from below. First, it will close the material from the bottom of the impact of adverse effects, and secondly it will be an excellent support and guide for the work. Fastened this element fastened dowels;

• Next, the fastening of heat-insulating sheets begins, for this purpose a solution is prepared, which is applied to the back of the insulation. As for polystyrene, it is sufficient to apply glue along the perimeter and in a pair of points in the middle. Mineral cotton wool in view of its large weight should be glued more thoroughly: the composition is applied to the entire surface with a tooth-grater (tooth size 8-10 mm);

• About a day later, when the glue is solidified, you can proceed to the last stage of fixing - the installation of umbrellas. For this, holes of the required depth are drilled first, after which an umbrella is first inserted, which is then fixed by hammering the nail, everything is very simple. As for the number of dowels, it can vary, light materials can be used less, two variants of work are shown below.

This option is suitable for bases of brick, concrete or blocks, if you have wooden walls, then the technology will differ.

If you decide to insulate the wooden walls under the plaster, the process will be as follows:

• First of all, you need to figure out how to fix the thermal insulation material on the wall. The usual anchor does not fit here, you need a special solution: the heater is fixed with long self-tapping screws for wood, and in order for them not to fail, they wear a special support washer called a rondole, it has a special plug that closes the hat of the samre cutter, which is very conveniently;

• If you want to provide additional strength, then you can glue the sheets with a composition that resembles a mounting foam and is sold in the same cylinders, it adheres well to the tree. This glue can also be used for sealing joints;

• The number of screws depends on how well the insulation is kept, sometimes they can be up to 6 pieces per sheet.

If you make a system of ventilated facades, then the fastening process can be done in two ways:

• In the first it is supposed to build a wooden lattice, the width of which should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the insulation. This will allow the sheets to be packed very tightly and without additional fixation. Often the only element that holds the material is a waterproofing film that is attached over the top;

• The second option is when a full-fledged facade made of metal is built. Initially, vertical racks are placed, after which the heat-insulating material is laid, most often it is a mineral wool, for its fixation, fungi are used to fix the heater.

We figured out how to fix materials on the wall with different variants of the work, it's all quite simple, it's important to ensure the reliability of the insulation.

Option number 2 - thermal insulation of the plinth

This part of the structure needs special attention, since if it is not insulated, the cold will penetrate the soil and the floor in the house will always be cold. As for the process of fixing the insulation, it is quite simple:

• First of all, it is necessary to release the insulated surface, it is necessary to ensure unhindered access to it for the duration of the work. It is best to do this operation at the stage of building the structure;
• Next you need to waterproof the surface, the easiest way is to use the mastic, it makes the surface more durable and improves the adhesion of the adhesive composition;
• As for fixing the heat insulator, and for this purpose I strongly recommend the use of extruded polystyrene foam, it is best to use the gluing technology. As the glue is used all the same mastic, with its help you quickly and securely fix the sheets on the surface. An additional advantage of this option is that such fastening is not afraid of moisture;

• Use fungi does not make sense, because after the work is finished, the surface will be covered with soil, which will press the material against the surface. The only thing that should be done is to seal the joints with their mounting foam.

This version of the work is very simple, although many consider it more complicated than wall insulation. The main thing is to use a quality compound for gluing.

Option number 3 - insulation of the attic

We'll figure out how to mount a heater in the attic, since this part of the construction requires particularly careful thermal insulation and the work is significantly different from the above options. There are several ways to do the work, and they depend on what material is used. Let's begin with such a heater as a foam:

• It is necessary to use a material with a thickness of at least 100 mm, if there is none, then you can put two elements of 50 mm. The ideal option is the step of the rafters along the width of the foam, this will simplify the work and will allow them to be carried out much more quickly;
• Products are attached to the adhesive composition or with the help of a mounting foam. If the elements are already tight, then you can simply seal the joints with foam, it will serve as an additional fastening material. Plus this option is that it has very little weight, and this simplifies the work, because low loads will withstand any glue;

If additional warming is required, then sheets of extruded polystyrene foam can be attached to the rafters, they are fixed with self-tapping screws with pressure washers directly to the rafters. It is better to locate the element across, so you can fix them much more reliably.

Double sheathing with a heater requires plastering afterwards,  so when fastening carefully, make sure that the hats become flush with the surface or slightly sunk in it;

• For additional fixing on top of the heater, there are fasteners or a board, on which the final finishing material is then fastened. They make it possible to provide an excellent fixation of the heater, under which it will definitely stay in place.

Now we will understand with such type of a heater as mineral cotton wool, on a loft are used roll variants which are simple in use and possess good теплоизоляционными characteristics:

• The material is cut into a strip whose width should be 3-4 cm longer than the distance between the rafters. The optimal size is determined experimentally, you yourself will understand which option is best kept and is most easily inserted into the design;
• Further, the bands are tightly pushed into the space, there should not be any slots, so all connections are sealed as closely as possible. Usually cotton wool is kept at the expense of a dense arrangement, but additional fixation to it still does not hurt;

• For fastening we will not use the traditional options in the form of dowels and glue, we need small carnations and a strong twine. Nails are packed on the rafters in 40-50 cm steps, after which a twine is stretched diagonally between them. It firmly fixes the heater and ensures its immovable position, this is a very simple, but very effective solution.

Option number 4 - insulation of the ceiling from the inside

About the insulation of the ceiling from the top there is no point in telling, since there is no need in the fastening. But if you need to attach a heater to the ceiling from the bottom, then there are many questions and problems caused by the inconvenience of the work and the difficulty of fixing the material. There are several options for doing the work yourself, I will list them, and you need to choose the most suitable:

• If you have a concrete ceiling and you use minvat, then the question is solved by using the fungi we know. Here you need to work with an assistant, he must keep the sheet until you mark the drilling points, and then hold it until the dowels for insulation are fixed and fixed. I advise you to purchase glasses and a respirator in advance - during work, everything falls into your eyes, and the formed dust prevents breathing;

• If you have a styrofoam, then it can be simply glued using glue in cylinders. And you can glue both to concrete and wood, this method is considered universal. In addition, the price of this material is small, which makes it the most attractive among all;

• If you have a wooden structure, then fix the insulation can be by building a framework of racks, which are simply put thermal insulation sheets. This option is suitable for any wooden structures, because the frame can be located at the required distance and put a heater of the required thickness;
• If you do not want to think how to fix a heater from the inside, then you can do even easier - when covering the surface with gypsum board or lining, simply lay the material on the structure. The main thing here is that you can lay the heater tightly and reliably. And of course, it should not be heavy.

Conclusion

I hope that this unique instruction will answer all your questions regarding the fixing of heat-insulating materials. The video in this article will tell you about some important points in more detail, and if you have questions, then ask from in the comments under the review.

Laying of mineral wool is required in those moments when it is necessary to warm the apartment: floor, walls or ceiling. In addition, with the help of this material, you can make the structure itself more reliable and durable. Minvata has many advantages, and shortcomings are found most often with improper installation. That's why all the stages of stacking you should know perfectly.

Internal insulation will not give the desired result without external, in the opposite case there will be no accumulation of heat. It is worth remembering about the so-called negative temperatures zones - this effect can be overcome only by warming the walls from the outside. The advantages of such warming include the increase in the life of the building, as well as saving the usable area of ​​the inner part of the house. To give the room a finished look, use a lining or.

Many people think that there are no heaters available that could combine both efficiency and efficiency at the same time. Either it is too much to overpay for quality, or to be satisfied with a hand-made article that is becoming unusable. Mineral cotton wool can completely refute the existing opinion. Affordable price, unique properties and quality - this is its main description. That is why today this material is so popular for the insulation of ceilings and walls.