Especially relevant for those who are going to start repairing with redevelopment in the near future. Many people want to give their apartments a uniqueness, and such a partition is carried out quickly enough, it requires much less effort and cost than made of bricks, foam blocks or other materials. Anyone who can work with a screwdriver, a plumb and putty, can cope with its installation.
Tools and materials
For work you will need these materials:
- sheets of plasterboard;
- guide profiles;
- rack profiles;
- mineral wool or other material for noise insulation;
- fasteners - dowels, metal and plasterboard self-tapping screws;
- sealing tape, self-adhesive tape-serpyanka;
- putty.
Take care in advance and about the availability of the necessary tools:
- drills;
- screwdriver;
- measuring tools - rulers, roulettes, plumb, level;
- scissors for metal;
- knife or special cutter for gypsum board;
- pencil;
- spatula.
The first stage of the installation of the partition - marking and measurements
The work should begin with the definition of the location and form of the future partition. Decide whether there will be a door, a window or other additional structural elements in it, what load it will carry (shelves, television, lamps, pictures, etc.). This is needed to select the width of the profile.
Tip: Draw a diagram of your partition on the paper, carefully measure and apply all necessary dimensions to the diagram. This will help to better imagine the type of the future wall and calculate how much material it will take to install it.
Calculation of plasterboard partitions can be done in different ways:
- independently, having determined the area of the future wall;
- use the special calculators that are available on many construction sites;
- turn to the help of specialists. This option is preferable if the partition has a significant load or has a rather complex shape.
After that, proceed to the markup. On the walls, floor and ceiling, you need to outline the lines along which the frame will be fastened. First, draw a line on the ceiling. Then from it lower the plumb lines to the points on the floor, along which, too, draw a straight line.
Important! The strength of the future wall depends on the accuracy of the marking. All lines and corners must be perfectly straight, the lines on the wall are strictly vertical, and on the floor and ceiling - identical to each other.
The second stage is the installation of the interior partition frame
According to the markings, begin to install a frame for which you can take wooden bars or a metal profile. The choice depends on the design features, the availability of materials and, of course, your desire. Most often, a metal profile is used for the plasterboard partitions.
If significant wall loads are planned or good sound insulation is required, take a profile not less than 10 cm wide. If the role of the partition is more decorative, then a 5-7 cm wide profile is sufficient.
On the outside of the guide profile, seal the sealing tape to achieve a more tight fit of the profile to the base. Then fix the guide profiles with dowels to the floor and ceiling in steps of not more than a meter.
Rack profiles should be attached first to the lower guides (at least 2 cm in approach), and then to the upper ones, the distance between them is about 60 cm. But you can calculate the step taking into account the width of the drywall sheets so that they are fastened to the posts along the edges and in the center.
Important! If the height of the wall is greater than the height of the drywall sheet, install additional horizontal rails between the posts. In this case, consider that the plasterboard is fixed in a checkerboard pattern: one sheet starts to be mounted from the floor, and the second - from the ceiling.
Tip: the rack sections on which the door frame will be mounted can be reinforced with wooden blocks, by inserting them into the profile.
If you want to more clearly imagine the process of installing the frame, you can see how the installation of a partition of plasterboard on video is carried out.
The third stage - skinning the frame with sheets of gypsum board
On the installed frame, fix the sheets in such a way that the distance between the screws is about 20 cm, and the sheet was fixed not only along the entire perimeter, but also to each profile. In this case, the hats should be recessed and not protrude above the surface.
First, sew one side of the frame with whole sheets, not forgetting the staggered mounting procedure. Then proceed to cutting the drywall and close the rest of the wall.
Now you can go to the inner part of the partition, in which, if necessary, build communications (electricity, water, heating).
Important! All communications inside the wall must necessarily be isolated. To insulate the wiring, a corrugated tube is usually used, which will not allow the fire to spread if a fire occurs. The water pipe is insulated with polyurethane foam tubes to prevent condensation.
The further technology of gypsum plasterboard partitioning implies the laying between the outer walls of any insulation (mineral wool, glass wool, etc.) to improve the sound insulation of the wall.
Then you can proceed to the plating of the second side of the wall with sheets of plasterboard.
Final finishing of interior gypsum plasterboard partitions
So, the partition is mounted, it remains to finish the finishing work. Cover all joints with a band-serpyanka and zashpaklyayte. Fix the putty as well as the attachment points of the screws. Then sand the entire surface of the partition with sandpaper to make it perfectly smooth and primer.
In the future, the wall can be painted, but most often the partition in the drywall room is wallpapered or trimmed with decorative plaster. The choice of the finish coat depends on the general interior of the room in which this wall is installed.
We have considered the question of how to make an interior partition of gypsum board. As you can see, this is not difficult at all. The main thing is that such a wall is made faster, easier and much cheaper than from a brick or other material, and, moreover, its installation does not require official approval.
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Gypsum plasterboard partitions are very popular these days and will soon displace other types of partitions. Manufacturing interior partitions of gypsum plasterboard does not require much time, as well as material costs and physical strength.
Advantages of gypsum plasterboard partitions include:
- High production speed;
- Minimizing wet processes;
- Ideally flat surfaces;
- Relatively small weight - from 25 to 50 kg / m2;
- Good sound insulation and fire resistance;
- The ability to mount communications inside the structure.
Gypsum plasterboard partition is a metal frame, connected to each other and sheathed on all sides by drywall sheets. The frame itself is usually made of a cold-formed galvanized profile, the thickness of which is 0.55-0.8 mm. Apply a thinner profile is not recommended because of the possibility of deformation of the entire structure.
Some tips on how to properly make a partition of gypsum board:
- If the production of the partition is to be carried out in a room with high humidity, then it is necessary to choose moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets for work;
- When installing the partition in rooms with high humidity between the GCR, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer;
- In the process of work, make sure that communications are not damaged by screws;
Before there, as you yourself begin to manufacture the partition, it is recommended to view the video on the Internet about how to build a partition of gypsum board.
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Often people decide to make a redevelopment of the premises by removing the old ones and constructing new partitions, which makes it possible to approach the planning of the useful area more rationally.
And if there are usually no difficulties with regard to the destruction of old walls, then the issue of new ones should be approached more thoroughly, so that time, effort and money should be spent as little as possible, and the result should be as good as possible.
From this article you will learn:
Previously, for the construction of partitions brick was used, today the choice of building materials has become more extensive. Experts advise to stop attention on one of the latest developments -. Easy, inexpensive, easy to install - this material is very popular when it comes to building new interior partitions.
Where should I start?
If you decide to make partitions from gypsum board, you must first choose the right material, make a marking for building a frame from the profile, prepare all the necessary equipment, and then proceed directly to the installation.
The frame is the foundation to which the sheets of plasterboard will be attached. Make it from a special metal profile, which is divided into several types depending on its purpose. The length of all profiles is 3-4 meters, by custom order, a product up to 7 meters long can be manufactured.
Types of metal profiles for drywall:
- rack - used to create load-bearing structures, vertical racks. It can have the following dimensions: 50х50, 65х50, 75х50 and 100х50 mm;
- guide - Used to fix the rack profile, create jumpers, is required for installation. Its size can be equal to: 50x40, 65x40, 75x40 and 100x40. Its second type measures 28x27 mm and is used for work with suspended ceilings;
- corner - is necessary to protect the edges of gypsum boards from mechanical damage. It differs by the presence of a large number of holes, in the process of finishing works it is puttied;
- ceiling. The name speaks for itself - this profile is used for editing. Dimensions: 60x27 mm. In the work with interior partitions it is not used.
The length and width of all plasterboard sheets are usually unchanged - 2.5 and 1.2 meters, respectively (you can rarely find on sale sheets 600 mm in width and 2 to 4 meters in length), so these parameters should not be given much attention.
More important for you is the thickness of the sheets. It depends on the purpose for which this type of building material will be used.
You should pay attention to plasterboard thickness of 12.5 mm, because it is used to create interior partitions. Other sheets (thickness 9.5 and 6.5 mm) are not suitable for you, since they are used for mounting of suspended ceilings and arches, respectively.
Materials and tools that will be needed
Before you begin, make sure that everything you need is prepared.
What will it take to work with plasterboard:
- the drywall itself in the required quantity (depends on the area of the future wall);
- metal profiles (rack, rail and corner);
- self-tapping screws ("metal-metal", "metal-plaster") and dowels;
- tape for sealing;
- sandpaper;
- (mineral wool is an excellent option);
- (construction knife, ring saw, knife-saw, disk cutter, edge and edge plane, metal scissors, screwdriver and perforator). The set can be expanded or reduced.
Interior partitions: we build the foundation
The erection of interior partitions from gypsum board begins with the installation of the frame. Before you begin this process, you need to make a markup. First, using a routing cord, mark the axis at the location of the future partition, immediately noting the location of the doorway. With the help of plumb lines and the same cord, the axis is transferred to the walls and ceiling. When the markup is done, you can proceed with the installation of the frame.
Construction of the frame: in steps
The first step is the installation of guide profiles on the floor and ceiling. When attaching them to the wall, do not forget the sealing tape. Fasten it in places where the profile abuts against the surface in order to increase the soundproof characteristics. The profile is fixed to the ceiling and using dowels, step - 1 meter, but for each profile - at least 3 dowels.
Step two - the installation of vertical (rack) profiles. Pay attention to the grooves located on the "shelves" of these profiles: the middle - the border of the joining of the sheets of gypsum board, the extreme - the place of centering of the screws.
The process of mounting rack-mount profiles (SP):
- The joint venture should be brought into the guiding profile on the floor, and then on the ceiling, not less than 2 cm;
- The joint venture is installed strictly vertically, mounting them in steps of 600 mm. Open side - in the direction of mounting the partition;
- fasten the rack and guide profiles with the help of metal-to-metal screws. First you need to screw the screw into the first of the "back" profile groove, and then into the one that is located on the open side (external). So you do not risk deforming the design.
In the side profile, you can insert a suitable size - for a higher level of strength of the frame.
In order to make a doorway in a plasterboard partition, it is necessary to leave a place for it in advance - at the stage of mounting the metal frame.
Install the rack profiles at the desired distance (these will be the side stops).
Between them, at a certain height, you need to install a guide profile, in the middle of which, parallel to the side joint venture, you need to mount an additional rack profile, where the joint of gypsum boards will be.
If you want to do at the top, then the principle of mounting the frame under them remains the same as for doors, only the dimensions of these openings will be smaller.
Installation of interior partitions: the last stage - plasterboard paneling
When the frame is ready, you can proceed to the last stage of the construction of interior partitions - plastering with plasterboard sheets.
First you need to install whole sheets that do not require cuts and fits. Next, you need to cut out the sheets of the right size and place them on the appropriate places, attaching them to the frame.
Cut the gypsum cardboard sheets with an easy - with a sharp knife, follow the marking line, applied to the sheet after careful measurements, cutting the cardboard shell and capturing the gypsum core. After this, put the sheet on a flat surface and break it off along the incision line, and apply a planer to the edge.
Gypsum boards are tightly pressed against the frame and screwed with screws. Begin with an angle in two directions perpendicular to each other. To fix it is necessary with a step of 250 mm (from one samorez to another), departing from an edge approximately on 10-15 mm. Twist the screws strictly perpendicular to the sheet, pounding them so that the heads are "drowned" in the drywall (1-2 mm, not more).
Sew the frame first only on one side, the second leaving open. If you plan to use any communication networks, then you should start and pack them inside the cavity of the frame in advance. Do not forget about sound and heat insulation. For this, it is necessary to lay in the cavity of the frame (necessarily type NG - not supporting combustion).
Make sure that it is tight, not slipping. Lay it from bottom to top. Use gloves to avoid skin irritation.
After that, sew the second side of the frame with sheets of gypsum board and proceed to finishing works:
- first zashpaklyuyte starting putty joints between the sheets and holes left heads samorezov;
- dry the dried up filler with fine-grained sandpaper;
- reinforce the outer corners with an angled profile, solder, clean;
- apply, if you are going to paint a drywall wall, and after drying, carefully clean it to prevent any unevenness.
The installation is finished, if you did everything correctly, then you will get a perfectly smooth and smooth surface, completely ready for finishing works.
In modern design, a rather popular element is false walls, covered with gypsum. For the construction of the frame of such walls (vertical racks and laths under the hull), a special profile is used for the plasterboard partitions.
Choosing the right profile is very important, which is why our article is completely devoted to the technology of working with this element of gypsum board structures.
Nomenclature of profile systems
The main elements of the crate
Frame and lath for partitions with GKL-cladding are assembled from metal panels of special shape. The raw material for the production of these parts is the strip of galvanized steel, which is given a certain configuration by cold rolling. The thickness of the metal and the configuration of the frame itself depends on the type of product.
All profiles for partitions of plasterboard are divided into basic and additional. The main ones are:
The most common sizes of PN include:
- 50x40 mm;
- 65x40 mm;
- 75x40 mm;
- 100x40 mm.
Available in panels with a length of 3 m, most often equipped with special fastening holes every 200-4000 mm.
Rack (PS) - installed in the guides at an angle of 90 0, forming a rack unit. Provide vertical stiffness of the septum and its resistance to deformations.
The most common sizes:
- 5хх50 mm;
- 65x50 mm;
- 75х50 mm;
- 100x50 mm.
Both the rack and guide elements can be made of metal of different thicknesses (from 0.38 to 0.45 mm). The larger the profile, the thicker the metal is used and the higher the mechanical characteristics of the product.
Note!
As a rule, in the line of metal structures from one manufacturer, the rack profiles are produced by 0.5-1 mm already than the corresponding guides.
This makes it possible to form a rack assembly without deforming the guides.
Additional elements of the crate
In addition to the rack and guide parts, for the construction of the frame can not do without various additional elements.
These include:
- Ceiling profiles (PP). Most often these parts are used to form the planes of suspended ceilings, however, when constructing interior partition walls, PP is used to form arched parts of doorways, as well as to connect vertical racks.
- Angular blades - are perforated corners of thin galvanized metal. Used for finishing the joints of the GKL plates under 90 0 in order to protect them from damage with puttying, finishing and further operation. Most often used in the arrangement of doorways in partitions.
In addition to the profiles, other metal elements may be required for making partitions by oneself. They can be made independently of metal strips or scraps of the frame, but it is best to purchase these parts from the same manufacturer as the profiles themselves. So we can be sure that their geometry and mechanical characteristics correspond to each other.
To such additional equipment carry:
- Suspens plate. They are used to fix the elements of the frames on the walls, and also to fix them to the ceiling. Partitions from the profile for drywall rarely require the use of hangers, but in some cases this universal part can be useful.
- Connectors. Used when you need to dock and securely fasten the two panels. Although the price of such connectors is low, many masters prefer to do without them, joining the metal parts directly. However, to improve the strength of the frame, it is better to use special components.
All these details make it possible to make the base of the partition between the rooms, to make it sufficiently durable and reliable. Next, we'll talk about how to use the partition wall for gypsum board.
Use of metal parts for partitioning
Tools for profile processing
The main advantage that practically any partition from the profile for gypsum board has is its manufacturability and ease of installation.
For working with metal panels we will need:
- Saw for metal is the most convenient tool for fitting panels to the required size. Best for this purpose fit circular saws with cut-off linen or saber models.
Note!
The use of a "grinder" with a grinding disc is undesirable, since in the zone of high heating the element loses its anticorrosion characteristics, at high humidity in the room, the lath can start to rust.
- Shears for work on metal. They are used most often for incisions of the profile edges during the formation of the rack unit, as well as when bending the arch parts.
- A punch is an excellent alternative to a drill, as drilling a thin metal profile is rather inconvenient. Punching tools are used to make holes in the walls of metal elements.
- Ticks (scrapprofile) - used to join parts of the frame without using screws and other fasteners. According to the principle of operation, this tool is similar to a punch, but when knocking, two parts are connected according to the principle of rivets.
- Drill or perforator. Used to fix the frame parts on the walls, ceiling and floor. In premises with concrete bases, experts recommend the use of drills and borax with winning tips.
- Screwdriver is a tool that will work with 80% of your time. It is used to connect all parts of the frame with each other using special screws (3,9x25 mm).
We collect the base of gypsum plasterboard false wall
So, the materials and tools are ready for us, so it's time to start working.
Here is an instruction that describes the main steps in the process of erecting a false wall box:
- From PN panels of the chosen width with the help of a saw over the metal we cut off the parts of the required length. At the same time, we do not forget that in the floor of the frame there will be a gap in the area of the doorway.
- After laying the panels on the floor, use the perforator to make fixing holes in steps of 40-60 cm. Insert dowel sleeves into the holes, fasten the panels to the floor, tightening the locking screws with a screwdriver.
- The same operation is done with the ceiling part.
- Rack profiles, cut according to the height of the room, we put into the guides.
- We connect the rack units with the help of self-tapping screws (4 screws per connection) or a fastened profile. The connection process is shown in detail in the video.
- We form from the rack parts the frame of the future wall, installing two panels along the edges of the doorway.
- At the top of the door we connect the side racks with a horizontal jumper (a shorter section of the PS).
Advice!
To the doorway was more rigid, in the vertical parts of the frame we install mortgages from the wooden beam.
- Using technological holes, we lay wires, leaving free sections of the cable to connect the sockets and switches.
This completes all the work with the metal profile for the false wall. It remains for us to sew the erected frame with gypsum, zashpatlevat joints between the panels and the attachment point, the field of which to begin finishing finish.
Summing up
We hope that in this article you will find for yourself the answers to the questions, what profile is needed for the drywall partition and how to build a reliable frame for the false wall from this profile. If you carefully study all the recommendations, with the work on the construction of the partition you will surely cope!
Make from one large room two smaller size - one of the ways to get additional space within a single living space. Implement such planning metamorphosis will help the construction of a non-load-bearing partition, consisting of a metal frame, lined with sheets of plasterboard. Next, let's talk about the necessary details for the construction of partition walls and some features of the carcass assembly for the room separating the room.
What is needed for the device partition from the GCR - from the bearing racks to screws
When assembling skeletons for leveling walls and ceiling crates of various configurations and geometric complexity, two types of the most commonly used and recognizable profiles are used: guide and bearing, denoted by the Latin abbreviation UD and CD, respectively. Sometimes these elements are used for partitioning, although this is not entirely true - these profiles are designed for additional fastening with the help of straight hangers, which give the studs the necessary rigidity. If you mount ceiling-type load-bearing profiles without additional rigid fixation, as is the case with the installation of a partition wall, these rack elements are not capable of withstanding horizontal mechanical stress, which is fraught with their deflection and other deformations.
What kind of profile is used for drywall? For these purposes, manufacturers offer two types of metal products - the guide partition and the rack-mount profiles, denoted by the Latin alphabet respectively UW and CW. What are their features? First, they differ in size. The guiding parts of partition walls have shelves 40 mm each, with back widths of 50, 75 and 100 mm. Racks are made with the same gradation of the width of the back with shelves 50 mm, with the edges of the side surfaces having bends at the end giving additional rigidity.
The second feature of partition walls and guide elements is the thicker steel used in production. The maximum thickness of metal galvanized products for the installation of partitions - 1.2 mm, which provides the necessary strength of these parts. Sometimes profiles CW are issued with figured perforations in the back of the product, which are necessary for the laying of communications, if they are provided inside the gypsum plasterboard partition.
In addition to the profiles when assembling the partition wall, special small metal screws are used, the purpose of which is to fasten the metal parts together. For small size (9 mm), builders dubbed these screws "fleas" and this slang name caught on, so in any specialized store you can safely use this name of the smallest screws.
In addition to purchasing these materials, you should immediately think about buying a door frame and linen if a doorway is provided in the partition. It is desirable that the door frame in width match the thickness of the plasterboard-bound bulkhead. With a profile back width of, for example, 75 mm, the width of the partition with the GCR on both sides will be approximately 100 mm (with the standard for walls 12.5 mm). To have an idea of the thickness of the door frame and the dimensions of the canvas is also necessary in order to know where the side racks forming the opening will be installed and at what height will the transverse strip bordering the barrier gap from above.
Considering the fact that assembling the frame of the wall partition and its GKL skin is a one-day occupation, immediately get a drywall and screws for its attachment to metal parts (phosphated with a fine thread of 35 mm length). If the structure is to be mounted in a humid room, it is better to purchase a moisture-resistant GCR, which is easily recognized by the green color of the faceboard. The usual casing sheet is gray. The thickness of moisture-resistant and ordinary material is not different, but the strength of moisture-resistant is higher, which immediately becomes noticeable even when it is transported. Another factor that confirms the appropriateness of the acquisition of moisture-resistant GCR is its resistance to fungal and bacterial damage and there is no need to primethe work surface before subsequent finishing or lining.
We prepare the necessary tool - screwdrivers do not screw the screws
To work on assembling the skeleton of the partition and its skin was arguing, you need a set of necessary tools that will always be at hand. The list of tools, without which the installation work is unrealistic, looks like this:
- scissors for cutting metal;
- a perforator or impact drill with a set of drills with a winning tip;
- screwdriver;
- plumb bob;
- the building level (bubble) is not less than a meter in length;
- painting thread (with paint);
- measuring tape.
The profile racks and guides require a length fit. Sometimes the design is reinforced by cross-bars, which are also cut out of the profile, with the manufacture of special fastening protrusions formed from the shelves and the back of the part. To do this, you need to have at hand quality scissors, cutting thin metal rolling. Some masters use for cutting metal elements of the frame of the USM (Bulgarian), equipped with an abrasive nozzle (circle) for metal. This is not entirely correct, since when cutting a profile with a Bulgarian, the area of the cut is heated strongly, which leads to local destruction of the galvanizing layer. The longevity of such a part can be reduced at times due to corrosion, to which a site devoid of protective zinc coating is exposed.
The puncher will be needed when installing the guide profiles, which are attached to the walls, floor and ceiling slabs (or to the finished ceiling). Do not do without this power tool, if at least one of the listed surfaces of concrete. A drill when drilling dowel holes in concrete is untenable, because it has too high speed and weak impact force. You can use a drill if you need to drill a brick wall or an even less durable material. If the floors or floors are wooden, the task of installing a guide profile on these surfaces is simplified. Drilling in this case does not have anything - just pull the metal parts with phosphated (black) self-tapping screws 45-55 mm long.
The construction of metal parts can not be assembled without a screwdriver. Screwing a screwdriver into the profile is very problematic with a screwdriver, and considering that there will be many such actions (about 50 self-tapping screws, plus fleece blocks for connecting separate parts of the frame, to fix one sheet of gypsum board), you can not do without a screwdriver. It can be replaced with a compact drill with small amounts of work, but only one in which there is a function of smooth acceleration of the cartridge.
A few words about. To twist the flea we use an ordinary oblong nozzle with a cross-shaped tip. It can also be applied to the gypsum board if there is a skill. When there is no special skill in this kind of work, it is better to use a bit with a limiter that does not allow you to drown the samorez deeper than it should. Such a nozzle greatly accelerates the work on fixing the GCR to the profile, making the work without a hassle.
The hat of the screw with proper penetration of the fixing gypsum board of the screw must be buried in the front cardboard 1-2 mm. With a deeper fit, the screw does not perform the fastening function.
If you have a laser level and an understanding of how to use it, you can use this tool to mark the perimeter of the future partition. When this device is not there - it does not matter. The usual construction plumb line will help to form a vertical plane no worse than the level - nobody canceled gravity. You can also use a plumb bob for vertical racks, but usually, given the tolerance in the accuracy of the installation, this is done with a bubble level - so quicker and more convenient.
Installation of a partition frame and its plastering with plasterboard
Installation work begins with the marking of the perimeter of the future separation structure. This procedure usually starts from the floor where the guide line for setting the guide profile is beaten off. When piling the floor guide it is important to check the rectangularity of the drawn line with the side walls. Then, with the help of a plumb line, the lines are transferred vertically to the ceiling, and there the ceiling point is beaten off. It remained on the walls to repel the verticals with a painting thread, connecting the edges of the ceiling and floor lines. Then the frame is assembled in such a sequence.
- 1. We fix the UW-profile by dowels or screws on the marked perimeter. The distance between the fasteners can be varied within 40-60 cm. If a door or arch aperture is assumed in the partition, the guide rail is not installed within its projection on the floor.
- 2. Cut into the desired size (about half a centimeter less than the distance from the floor to the ceiling) CW-profile, immediately enter into the guides and expose according to the calculated step. The distance between the posts should be a multiple of the width of the GCR (120 cm). The closer we have the racks to each other, the stiffer the frame and the stronger the structure.
- 3. If an opening is supposed to be installed, at its edges we install additional racks (regardless of the location of the other load-bearing elements), and turn the profiles backwards inwards (they will be fastened with a door frame or an arch trim). At the top of the opening, we install a transverse bridge from the UW-profile, which is connected to the ceiling guide by a short post located at the place where the plasterboard sheets are supposed to be joined.
This completes the assembly of the frame - you can proceed to the plating of the GKL metal structure. To make the installation of drywall quickly and correctly, use the following tips in the work. In height, gypsum boards are cut about a centimeter smaller than the absolute size. When installing finished fragments of GCR under them, we place pads about half a centimeter, which are removed after screwing the sheet. So we form the upper and lower deformation gaps, which are necessary for the possibility of linear expansion of the material and the absence of direct contact with other building structures.
GKL fixed to the racks and guides with a pitch of screws up to 25 cm. If the bearing profiles are exposed in 60 cm, they will not get into them with a work screw - there is always a middle marking on the plasterboard. If a smaller step is used to increase the strength of the partition (it can be 40 or even 30 cm), it is desirable to make marks on the ceiling and floor corresponding to the position of the racks. So it will be easier to get self-tapping screws into intermediate profiles, and not into "milk."