Foundation drainage system. Drainage installation around a private house - a system for draining water from the site and from the foundation. What is drainage?

Excessive amounts of water negatively affect the quality and durability of foundation support structures, lead to flooding of basements and create significant inconvenience during various landscaping activities. In view of this, the construction of a drainage system is a mandatory stage in the development of any site.

The main function of drainage is to protect the supporting structure of a building from the harmful effects created by groundwater. The drainage system reduces the likelihood of basement flooding and reduces the risk of waterlogging and flooding of the area.

By neglecting the drainage system, the owner risks significantly increasing the likelihood of a decrease in the service life of the supporting structure due to waterlogging and exposure to frost heaving forces.

Water in the basement is a consequence of errors in design and construction, lack of a drainage system

Many developers are interested in: is it necessary to install drainage if the groundwater is quite low and the soil on the site is not subject to frost heaving to a high degree? The answer is: each case is subject to individual consideration. The unconditional need to create drainage arises in the following situations:

if the basements are buried below the groundwater level or if the floor of the basement rises above the groundwater level by less than half a meter;
if the basement is located in clay or loamy soil. The level of groundwater passage in this case does not matter;
if technical undergrounds in an area with clay/loamy soil are buried more than 150 cm in relation to the horizon. The peculiarities of the passage of groundwater in this case are not taken into account;
if the building is located in a zone of capillary humidification.

The conclusion from the above is as follows:

a drainage system is needed if groundwater is critically close to the supporting structure of the building, or if it runs so high that the site area looks swampy and almost nothing grows on it;
a drainage system is not needed if the site is dry and the groundwater level does not rise to a critical level during the rainy season and flood periods.

The best option for a drainage system

There are several types of drainage systems. It is advisable to use 2 of them in combination with the foundation structure.

First, ring drainage.

This system is designed to protect basements from groundwater flooding. It is based on tubular drains laid along the contour of the supporting structure.

The operating principle of ring drainage is based on reducing the groundwater level in the protected circuit, thereby reducing the risk of flooding of underground structures. The depth of the pipes in relation to groundwater directly determines how much the level of the latter will drop. Laying of ring drains is carried out at a certain distance from the building (usually 1.5 - 3 m from the foundation), which makes it possible to arrange drainage after the construction of the building.

Secondly, reservoir drainage. The disadvantage of such a system compared to the above-considered option is the possibility of its arrangement only at the stage of construction of the building, because it is installed under the base of the foundation at the level of the sand backfill. Excess moisture through perforated drains (pipes) enters the receiving well, from there to a place chosen by the developer (sewage system, reservoir, some depression in the terrain of the site, or it is pumped out and used for economic needs, for example, for watering plantings).

When arranging reservoir drainage, simultaneous protection of the foundation structure from groundwater and capillary moisture is ensured. Reservoir drainage is especially effective when constructing buildings with basements on low-permeability soils. Such drainage is also appropriate if the site is located in an area with a thick aquifer. Reservoir drainage must be installed if the building is located in a zone of capillary soil moisture and has a basement.

Reservoir drainage – innovations

To ensure that the drainage of your home is as efficient as possible, we will tell you about the procedure for arranging both the ring and stratum systems. If the building has already been erected, you will have to be content with only the ring drainage - no one will destroy the building for the sake of constructing a reservoir drainage system.

Prices for drainage pipes

drainage pipes

What does drainage consist of?

The main elements of the drainage system are pipes, inspection wells and a well for collecting water. The installation of the latter is carried out if the building is located on a flat area in the absence of the possibility of draining water outside the site.

Drainage pipes

Previously, mainly metal, asbestos-cement and ceramic pipes were used to equip the drainage system.

Such products were used solely due to their wide availability and had a number of disadvantages, including:

frequent blockages and siltation;
relatively short service life;
the need to independently prepare holes for water inlet.

A much more effective, convenient and modern solution is plastic pipes– we recommend using them when arranging a drainage system.

The drainage system is best assembled from perforated pipes with stiffeners that ensure uniform distribution of loads on the products.

The advantages of plastic pipes are obvious:

long service life;
high strength indicators. The presence of stiffeners, as noted, contributes to the uniform distribution of loads, which allows the pipes to effectively withstand the resulting pressure;
resistance to rotting, corrosion and various adverse effects;
ease of transportation and installation. Plastic pipes for drainage installations weigh little and bend well, which allows them to be installed without the use of additional compensating elements;
ability to self-clean. The internal walls of the pipes in question, unlike the external ones, are smooth, which eliminates the possibility of accumulation of contaminants;
optimal ratio of cost and quality indicators.

Plastic pipes are the best ratio of quality and price

Plastic pipes can be laid at a depth of up to 5-6 m, i.e. with their help it will be possible to arrange drainage for any foundation.

Helpful advice! Perforated plastic pipes with pre-installed filters are available for sale. When choosing these, it is necessary, first of all, to focus on the characteristics of the soil on the site. Recommendations are given in the table.

Table. Selection of filters depending on soil type

Soil type	Recommendations for arranging filtration
	Perforated plastic pipes are suitable for arranging drainage in such soils without the use of additional filters.
	In this case, filtration is provided by the forces of geotextiles and crushed stone backfill.
	In this case, it is possible to arrange drainage without using additional filter material, but after laying the pipes, a minimum of 20 cm of crushed stone backfill must be carried out.
	In order to prevent siltation of pipes, geotextile filtration is installed.

When choosing the diameter of drainage pipes, they are guided, first of all, by the degree of soil moisture. According to the technology, an extensive hydrological calculation must be performed, but in practice, in the conditions of private land, everything is usually limited to standard values, namely:

for high water – 10-centimeter pipes;
for ring and reservoir drainage - 16.5 cm pipes.

The depth of laying pipes is determined in accordance with the level of soil freezing - drainage should be below this point.

When arranging a drainage system, 2 types of wells are used.

Firstly, inspection (revision) wells. Installed to monitor the condition of the system and clean it from blockages. When these form, a pump is lowered into the well and the pipe is cleaned. Installation of inspection wells is carried out at the intersection of pipes, at every 2nd turn and in 50-meter increments on straight pipelines. The standard diameter of such products is 60 cm. Additionally, inspection wells take on the function of sand catchers. To do this, the lower part of the structure is equipped with a special catching mesh, and the product is installed so that its bottom is 10-30 cm lower than the pipes ( specific meaning selected in accordance with the height of the outlet fittings for connecting pipes).

Secondly, a collector well. It is the final reservoir of the system - this is where the collected moisture flows. The sealed design is equipped with a solid bottom. The collected water can be used for irrigation or taken to a pond, ravine or other suitable place.

If the land plot is located on sandy soil or other soil with good water permeability, instead of a collector well, you can install the so-called. filter well. This container does not have a solid bottom. Instead, a layer of permeable material, usually crushed stone, is backfilled. The water entering the filter well through the pipes of the drainage system is discharged into the ground.

Additionally, the system includes plugs, adapters, fittings and elbows. The connection is made through the sealing gaskets included in the kit. The range of available components is shown in the photo.

Prices for drainage wells

drainage well

Preliminary calculations

When installing a private drainage system on our own, calculations come down to determining the depth of pipes and wells, as well as optimal slopes pipelines.

The depth of laying the drainage is determined by the depth of the supporting foundation. The principle is simple: drainage is installed 0.3-0.5 m below the foundation base.

The slope of the pipelines must be such that water moving through them can be drained quickly and efficiently into the receiving tank. Traditionally, they maintain a slope of 20 mm per linear meter.

First find the highest and lowest points of the site. In the first, you will arrange a water collection area (most often this is the highest corner of the house), in the second, you will install a receiving well. Thanks to the natural slope, there is no need to buy additional pumping equipment for pumping groundwater.

For a better understanding of the situation, check out the example of calculating foundation drainage.

An example of a specification for a 6x6 m rectangular bathhouse, drainage wells - 3 pcs.

building dimensions – 9x6 m;
the distance between the collector well and the building is 10 m;
the protrusion of the upper edge of the well above the ground is 0.3 m.

To determine the length of each individual section of the trench to the water intake, you need to add up the lengths of the sides of the building. In this example, the result will be 15 m. The total distance to the receiving well in this case will be 25 cm. The total slope of the system under consideration is 0.5 m (a couple of centimeters for each of the resulting 25 m).

Important! The distance between the foundation and the elements of the drainage system must be at least 3 m. Backfilling of sand and gravel is carried out at a depth below the freezing level of the soil.

Do-it-yourself reservoir drainage

The main function of such a system, as noted, is to protect the foundation from the harmful effects of groundwater and basements from flooding. Formative drainage can be used as an independent means or as part of a comprehensive drainage system. In the second case, pipelines are used to connect reservoir drainage with external drains.

The minimum thickness of the reservoir drainage layer installed under the foundation, taking into account backfill, is 30 cm. The dimensions are selected so that the perimeter of the drainage system extends 20-30 cm beyond the perimeter of the building.

Important note! In practice, a special need for the use of reservoir drainage arises only when building on clay soil. In other cases, a ring drainage system is usually more than sufficient.

Determine the depth of the pipes so that they are located below the clay ball of soil.

Important note! Information on preliminary marking, excavation and subsequent arrangement of the foundation after laying drainage pipes is not provided, because all this was previously discussed in detail in the corresponding publication on our website.

The work on arranging the reservoir drainage system comes down to the following.

Having prepared the foundation pit for the supporting structure, you further deepen it by at least 20 cm. At this stage, as noted, you need to remove a wider layer of soil compared to where the foundation passes.
Next, the bottom of the resulting pit is covered with a 20-centimeter layer of crushed stone. The backfill is carefully compacted and leveled in compliance with the slope (in this case, it is advisable to make a 3-centimeter slope for each meter of the site) in the direction of the receiving well.
Next, flexible perforated plastic pipes with stiffeners are laid along the perimeter of the crushed stone base. The ends of the pipes are led to the location of the receiving well.

Further arrangement of the foundation is carried out in the standard manner.

As a result, moisture penetrating under the foundation base will penetrate into the pipes through perforated holes and be discharged through them into the receiving well.

As for the receiving well, in the case of reservoir drainage it is advisable to use its filtration variety. The dimensions of finished round filtration wells are on average 150 cm, rectangular - 280x200 cm. Height - more than 200 cm.

For a well, preferably at a distance of at least 3 m from the future foundation, a hole is dug of such a depth that the bottom of the receiving tank is located at least 1 m below the entry point of the drainage pipe. This is ideal. In practice, they make sure that there is at least a 1 m difference between the groundwater and the bottom of the well. Compliance with these rules will ensure the most efficient and correct operation of the drainage system.

The length and width of the pit are selected so that after installing the well, at least 200-300 mm of free space remains on each side. The well is installed in a hole. The bottom of the tank is covered with a 30-centimeter layer of crushed stone and compacted.

The space between the container and the walls of the pit is also filled with crushed stone to a height of at least 1 m. The drainage system pipes are inserted into the tank. From above, all this is covered with geotextiles and covered layer by layer with sand and soil with careful compaction.

Water from the well will be drained into the deeper layers of the soil.

Helpful advice! Do not fill the well completely - leave the possibility of carrying out inspection work. To do this, bring the backfill to the top edge of the well, install the seal, neck and hatch from the kit.

Important! To install the well, you will have to involve special equipment and/or several assistants - it is unlikely that you will be able to cope with a two-meter volumetric structure on your own.

DIY ring drainage

Such a system can be installed after the construction of the building is completed. Recommendations regarding setbacks between structures and drainage remain the same.

There are a couple of additional important notes to make first.

Firstly, regarding the depth of the drainage pipes. The dependence is simple: the pipes are laid half a meter below the foundation of the building.

Secondly, regarding the storage well. In the case of a collector system, it is more advisable to use a type with a solid bottom. The installation procedure differs from the instructions for the filtration well only in the absence of bottom crushed stone backfill.

Inspection wells are installed on the same principle as storage wells. Only the dimensional characteristics of the products change (selected depending on the conditions of a particular situation) and the location of the drainage pipes.

Thirdly, regarding the size of the trench. To determine the optimal indicator, add 200-300 mm to the outer diameter of the pipe. The remaining free space will be filled with crushed stone. The cross-section of the trench can be rectangular or trapezoidal - whichever is more convenient for you. Stones, bricks and other elements that could damage the integrity of the pipes being laid must be removed from the bottom of the pits.

The operating procedure is presented in the table.

For your own convenience, you can make markings in advance. To do this, step back 3 m from the walls of the house (ideally. In the absence of sufficient space, many developers reduce this figure to 1 m, be guided by the situation), drive a metal or wooden peg into the ground, step back from it further to the width of the trench, drive a second peg, then install similar landmarks opposite, at the opposite corner of the building. Stretch ropes between the pegs.

Table. DIY ring drainage

Work stage	Description
	Dig trenches around the perimeter of the foundation. Do not forget about the slope of the bottom - maintain it within 1-3 cm per meter. As a result, the highest point of the drainage system should be located lower in relation to the lowest point of the supporting structure.
	Fill the bottom of the trench with a 10 cm layer of river sand. Compact thoroughly, maintaining the specified slope. Lay a layer of geotextile on top of the sand (if the soil is clean sandy) of such a width that you can subsequently cover the pipes, taking into account the thickness of the crushed stone backfill. Fill a 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone on top of the geotextile, remembering to maintain the specified slope. Lay the pipes on the crushed stone. The image shows ordinary orange sewer pipes - here the developer made the holes himself. It is more convenient to use the initially recommended flexible perforated pipes, but if you don’t have them, you can go the route of the developer from the photo. Maintain a 5-6 cm step between the holes. Recommendations for connecting pipes were given earlier.
	Place a 15-20 cm layer of crushed stone on top of the pipe. Wrap the geotextile with an overlap. As a result, the pipes will be surrounded on all sides by crushed stone, separated from the soil and sand by geotextiles.

Finally, all that remains is to install inspection and storage wells, connect pipes to them and backfill the soil.

Typical mistakes when installing foundation drainage

Check out the list of the most popular mistakes made by private developers, avoid them during the work process, and the drainage of your foundation will serve for as long as possible without any complaints.

First of all, don’t put your hopes on a wall foundation. Its functions are reduced primarily to the removal of atmospheric precipitation, rather than groundwater.
Secondly, do not use geotextiles as a filter if your site is located on loam or sandy loam - after a few years the filter will clog, which will worsen the efficiency of the drainage system.
Thirdly, when controlling the angle of inclination of trenches for laying pipes, if possible, work with a theodolite and a level instead of a level - this is more correct.
Fourthly, use drainage wells instead of storm water wells. The latter are designed to collect precipitation.
Fifthly, do not place all your hopes on the drainage system alone. To ensure the most effective removal of moisture from the supporting structure and structure, a drainage system must be installed in the direction of the storm drain.

This point deserves separate consideration. First of all, remember: drainage and storm water should not be connected to the same pipe. In practice, with this solution, the effect will be the opposite of what was expected - during the rainy season, the drainage will not cope with the removal of moisture. As a result, the soil near the supporting structure will become waterlogged; in winter, excess moisture will freeze and the soil will swell. This can lead to deformation of the blind area, movement of the supporting structure and its further destruction.

To make a storm drain, you can use ordinary orange sewer pipes. The system includes water receiving trays. Water is discharged into a storage well. Detailed instructions for arranging a storm drain are not provided, because This is a topic for a separate voluminous publication not related to the drainage system.

Stormwater prices

storm drain

Video - Do-it-yourself foundation drainage

Foundation drainage is a system that consists of perforated pipes and removes excess moisture from the perimeter of the building. The drainage system performs an important function. Thanks to its operation, the foundation is protected from the harmful effects of moisture and thereby extends its service life. Conclusion of soil and melt water, precipitation is necessary everywhere, except in areas where the soil mainly consists of sand.

Foundation drainage cost

In order for the drainage of the foundation of a private house to be laid efficiently and reliably, it is necessary to know all the features of the construction of the house, as well as the shape and depth of the base of the structure. The price will depend on the depth of installation of the system.

Drainage for 3 buildings. Foundation drainage from the company "Akvakomplekt" (video)

The importance and necessity of foundation drainage

The laid foundation of any building violates the existing hydrological regime in the given territory. The design prevents the movement of ground and surface water. Because of this, their level rises, the soil subsides and in winter it is subject to heaving to a greater extent.

Waterproofing cannot correct the situation. During a flood or heavy rainfall, the foundation will be flooded. At the same time, foundation drainage does not replace waterproofing, but complements it.

Flooding is not the only problem that home owners have to face. If the structure is erected in an area where clay soil or loam predominates, then there is a high probability of swelling. After the water saturates the soil and freezes, the soil will increase in volume. He will influence any structure that gets in his way. Ultimately, this will lead to cracks in the walls and destruction of the foundation.

If the following signs are detected, the drainage system must be equipped immediately:

cracks have formed on the foundation;
floor and wall slabs are broken or cracked;
windows and doors jammed;
Cracks appeared on the sidewalks and paths.

Turnkey foundation drainage is the most reliable and effective method combating moisture-saturated soil.

How to properly drain the foundation of a private house?

Before you start installing a drainage system in a private house, you need to select drains - PVC pipes. Most often, drains with a diameter of up to 11 cm, made of PVC, are used.

Next they move on to land work. The trenches are located at a distance of up to 1 meter from the base of the house. They begin to dig a channel at the lowest point. It is determined by building level. Gradually the trenches deepen.

The bottom of the canal is filled with sand. With its help, a small slope is formed and the pipe is laid at an angle. The slope is checked by level or experimentally. Water is poured into the drain and it is necessary to evaluate in which direction it will flow.

After this, geotextiles are laid. The edges of the fabric are fixed to the walls of the trench. Next, crushed stone is poured and pipes are laid on it. Crushed stone is again poured onto the pipes and covered with soil.

Foundation drainage requires periodic cleaning. To do this, vertical outlets are installed through which drains can be flushed in case of blockage.

Our works

What is important to remember when installing foundation drainage?

Foundation drainage is formed subject to the following rules:

Choose a warm time of year for your arrangement.
Water should not get into the trench for drains, so polyethylene is stretched over them during installation.
Additional strengthening of the trench walls is necessary during heavy rainfall.
It is better to install blind areas in the courtyard of the house during the work to preserve the lawn and other green spaces in their original form.
The location of underground sources and groundwater levels are determined in advance
In addition, at the design stage, locations for wells through which drains are serviced and cleaned are determined.

We use only high quality to create foundation and general drainage systems.

4 reasons to do foundation drainage now

Keep your family healthy

Dampness promotes the growth of mold on walls. It is harmful to health, especially for children and the elderly. It appears due to the accumulation of water in the basement and soil under the house. Drainage will solve this problem.

Forget about puddles and mud after the rain

Puddles and dirt will disappear, plants will stop rotting. You will be able to plant plants where there used to be water. Shoes will always be clean

Protect your crowns and save on replacement costs

If the walls of the house are made of wood, and there is water under the house, then after 3-5 years the crowns of your log house will begin to rot. We'll have to open up the floors and change the crowns. This is a rather complex and labor-intensive operation. Therefore, it is better to drain water from under the house in advance.

Protect your foundation and save on maintenance

If there is no drainage, all the water goes under the house and gradually destroys the foundation of the house. In a few years you will have to do major repairs, and this is more expensive than installing drainage.

When is drainage necessary?

If your neighbors have water on their property or in their basement

Most likely, you will have to take into account the same thing, because... your soil structure and groundwater level are approximately the same.

In low-lying areas or near bodies of water

If the site is located in a lowland, then all the water from the hillocks will flow to you. If there is a river nearby, then in the spring, during floods, your area may flood.

In areas with high groundwater levels

If groundwater is located high, then in the spring, when the snow melts and during heavy rains, its level can increase significantly, and the area or basement will flood.

In areas with clay and loamy soils

The clay is very dense and does not allow water to pass through it; water cannot escape from the surface of the site; drainage is needed.

If the groundwater level is high, the foundation must be protected not only by careful waterproofing, but also by a well-designed drainage system. Only the combination of these measures will allow the structure to be maintained in its design condition without destruction.

Which system to choose

The foundation drainage of a house can have a different structure depending on the type of soil, the amount groundwater and the depth of the structure.

Wall foundation drainage

Such a system is necessary when laying a deep foundation with high level groundwater. It is often installed to prevent flooding even at normal groundwater levels to protect against intense precipitation.

The wall drainage system can consist of 2 parts:

Foundation wall protection;
Interlayer drainage, arranged under the foundation cushion, is necessary for voluminous and saturated groundwater layers.

The device for protecting the outer wall of a load-bearing structure is carried out on all soils except sandy ones - they themselves conduct liquid well into the lower layers of soil.

The wall system includes a complex of waterproofing walls and laying drainage pipes with inspection wells. Excess liquid is collected in the pipeline and removed at the disposal site into a sewer, reservoir, site for reuse, etc.

Ring drainage

The design method is similar to the wall one, but differs in location: the ring system drains the entire perimeter, incl. areas adjacent to the house. It is placed at a distance of 1.5...3.0 meters from the foundation, which is convenient when laying it after the construction of the building.

Ring drainage is optimally chosen for shallow foundations without a basement.

Interlayer drainage

It is often arranged as an independent protection of the foundation from saturated aquifers that the structure reaches. Interlayer drainage additionally prevents the walls from getting wet by capillary moisture. Its arrangement is possible only at the stage of preparing the foundation for the foundation.

The system is mainly used for slab bases. It involves compacting the soil with large sand and gravel using drainage pipes located under the foundation.

Let's summarize

To clearly determine which type of drainage is suitable for a particular home, use the table:

Any system is necessarily accompanied by waterproofing of the external surfaces of the foundation and the arrangement of a blind area with a slope along the entire perimeter of the building - it partially drains the water coming from above.

Calculation of system and materials

Proper foundation drainage begins with calculations of the drainage system and materials.

The depth of the pipe in the trench should be 0.3...0.5 meters greater (deeper) than the foundation cushion. This reserve is sufficient to remove excess soil fluid from the supporting structure.
The slope of the pipeline must be at least 2 cm per 1 pm of drainage for the natural removal of water from structures to their destinations.

To organize drainage on the perimeter, you need to find the highest and lowest points.

A water collection well is located high;
A receiving well is installed in the low one, from which it is discharged into a collector well for further transportation.

To calculate the amount of materials, follow several rules:

Draw a diagram of the house indicating the sides. Draw on the plan the proposed drainage water line, taking into account the distance from the wall (up to 0.5 m for a wall outlet, 1.5...3.0 m for a ring outlet).
For every meter, add 2 cm to the slope. If the length of the plot is 10 meters, we get 20 cm of slope from the top to the bottom point.
Mark the position of the inspection wells. They should be located in the corners of the house or at every second turn, but at a distance in a straight line no more than 40 m from each other.
Based on the data obtained, calculate the required number of pipes and wells.
Provide couplings for turns, and separate special components for pipe connections.

Pipe selection

The efficiency of the entire system depends on the quality of the selected materials. Pipes made of ceramics and asbestos cement are currently practically not used due to their low efficiency; preference is given to PVC and HDPE pipes. For drainage, use products with perforations and filters:

Geotextiles;
Coconut fiber.

It is optimal to use pipes with stiffeners to maintain the shape of water pipelines even under intense soil loads.

The variety of pipes and filters in stores will confuse any uninformed buyer. How not to make a mistake when choosing? - rely on the type of soil.

Wells are made of the same material as pipes.

Inspection wells with a drainage bottom direct water into deep layers of the earth. Crushed stone and coarse sand are poured under their base. These are placed at the intersections of the sides of the highway in near-wall systems and for interlayer protection.
Blind receiving wells transfer water to a pipeline that removes the liquid to a place for further disposal. These are installed in places where deep drainage is impossible.

DIY foundation drainage

After calculations, we begin construction of the drainage system. Let's look at each one separately.

Formative drainage

As already mentioned, it is installed as an accompanying system for protecting the foundation from getting wet by ground and capillary water and as an independent tool for draining the soil under the slab.

After digging a trench or foundation pit for the structure, the ground is compacted and covered with sand, crushed stone or a mixture of ASG. Depending on the quality of the base, there can be 1 or 2 layers, but not less than 30 cm in total. The area of the drainage layer should be larger than the area of the foundation, the perimeter protrudes beyond the structure by 20-30 cm. With a combined drainage system, the layer layer is equipped with pipes, which are laid around the perimeter of the pit and the ends lead to the locations of the wells. Next, the foundation is erected as usual.

Wells are installed after construction work. To do this, they dig recesses 1 m below the pipes, install equipment, and introduce lines. The pit is filled in layers with crushed stone and sand, compacting each of them.

Wall drainage

Ideally, it is equipped during the construction of foundation walls. If it happens that the house is already functioning, then the walls will have to be exposed right down to the pillow in order to carry out preventive work.

It is necessary to create a design slope at the base of the pillow. To do this, the soil is cut off or topped up and compacted in the right places. It is important to achieve a height difference of 2 cm per 1 pm of drainage pipes.
Cover the entire perimeter of the trench with geotextiles to its top, fix the bottom with a 20 cm layer of clean gravel, in which a recess is formed for the pipe.
The pipes are laid and connected with couplings, the ends at the locations of the wells are left free.
The main line is covered with a 20 cm layer of gravel, which is covered with textiles on top to filter small soil particles.
Wells are installed. Pipes are inserted into the holes, fixed, covered with geotextiles and covered with crushed stone, then sand, compacting each layer.
They fill up the trench.

It is advisable to carry out the work after completing the construction of the foundation.

Ring system

Drainage of a shallow foundation can be done using the same algorithm as a wall foundation, but several nuances must be taken into account:

The depth of laying pipes should be located strictly below the level of soil freezing, below the level of the base by 0.3...0.5 m;
The receiving well must be equipped with a solid bottom; there is no need to fill crushed stone under its base.

Work order:

Dig a trench at a specified distance from the perimeter of the house.
Compact the base, adjust the slope and fill it with crushed stone.
Lay and install pipes.
Protect them with geotextiles.
Fill with crushed stone at least 20 cm.
Install wells and connect them to pipes.
Fill up the wells.
You can fill the remaining volume of the trench.

Summarize

Prevention of foundation flooding should be provided for during construction on any soil, since danger can appear from the outside from intense precipitation and when snow melts. You shouldn’t waste your time and energy on these simple activities. Of course, lower energy costs will be achieved with timely arrangement of drainage during the construction of foundation walls. Additionally, do not forget to waterproof the outer walls with effective roll and coating materials; the pillow will be protected by roofing felt laid in several layers.

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When building a private house, the problem of draining groundwater from the foundation often arises. This is very important when their level is high and the base of the soil is clay or loam. This is also of great importance if the house has a basement or basement. If you do not drain the foundation of the building, the basement will always be damp, the walls will become covered with mold, and the floor may also be flooded with groundwater.

Water negatively affects durability and strength concrete structures foundation of the house, regardless of the quality and composition of the waterproofing. The foundation drainage scheme is developed at the design stage and is carried out together with the construction of the foundation, which allows saving on excavation work.

Main types of drainage system

Based on their functional purpose and installation method, there are several main types of drainage around the foundation of a house:

surface drainage - acts as a storm drain around the house, closely connected with the roof drainage system;
wall foundation drainage;
foundation ring drainage;
reservoir drainage.

Each type has its own characteristics and purpose. Often, several types of drainage are performed simultaneously, with surface drainage removing rainwater from the roof of a building, and wall drainage draining groundwater from the base of the foundation.

Photo from the site during drainage installation.

Ring drainage is often used in the construction of private houses in areas with high groundwater levels. It consists of perforated drainage pipes laid along the perimeter of the house foundation and inspection wells.

Such a drainage system can be around any foundation - slab, strip, columnar. This system ends with a common drainage well into which all waste water is discharged. Water is drained from it by a sewer pipe towards the street or ravine.

The difference between wall and ring drainage is the distance of its installation from the surface of the foundation. For ring drainage this is an average of three meters, and wall drainage is installed at a distance of about one meter.

Reservoir drainage is performed under the entire area of the building and can be used with slab and strip foundations. It is often used in the construction of baths.

There is a so-called system. foundation drainage light, used to protect basements from groundwater in clay soils. It is usually used for unused basements.

Materials and tools

To install foundation drainage, you will need the following materials, which must be purchased in advance, taking into account the draft:

perforated plastic pipe;
geotextiles;
inspection wells;
sand;
crushed stone

If necessary, you can use available materials to construct inspection wells.

Film for waterproofing.

In addition to materials for high-quality installation, you will need the necessary tools:

shovels and bayonet shovels;
jackhammer;
wheelbarrow for transporting soil and crushed stone;
laser or regular level;
tape measure and pegs;
cord;
grinder for cutting pipes;
knife for cutting geotextiles.

All work on installing a ring drainage system around the house does not present much difficulty in its implementation and can be done with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists. However, design documentation, which stipulates the need for a drainage system, must be ordered from specialized design organizations that can assess the composition of the soil in the selected area.

Drainage device

A common type of drainage system for the foundation of a house is ring drainage. It is better to carry it out in parallel with the construction of the foundation of the house. Let us consider step by step the entire process of installing such a system. Waterproofing must be done before drainage can be carried out. All work can be divided into the following stages:

preparing a trench around the house to the depth of the foundation, its width can be any, but not less than 50 cm, while the bottom is made with a slope of approximately 2 cm per meter;
backfilling the underlying cushion with sand 150 - 200 mm thick;
installation of inspection and drainage wells in the corners of the building; holes must first be made in their walls;
laying geotextiles up to two meters wide at the bottom of the trench;
installing a layer of medium-fraction crushed stone at the bottom of the trench on top of geotextiles, this layer should be up to 20 cm thick;
laying perforated pipes with a slope;
filling the pipes with crushed stone in a layer of approximately 30 - 40 cm;
wrapping pipes covered with crushed stone, geotextiles with an overlap;
backfilling the trench with soil to the level of the blind area.

Foundation drainage can be done with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. The considered option relates to the installation of deep drainage to combat groundwater. Using the same technology, surface drainage can be made, acting as a storm drain, collecting and draining rainwater from the roof and from the local area.

Let us consider in more detail the design of deep drainage for the foundation of a building. This type is suitable for strip foundation Houses. Ring drainage, like wall drainage around the foundation, can be carried out both after the construction of the house, and in parallel with the construction of the foundation, which is much preferable.

The depth of drainage varies, but it mainly depends on the depth of the foundation. It is optimal when the drainage pipes are at the level of the lower plane of the strip foundation.

To correctly design a slope, it is best to use a laser or optical level, setting a slope of 2 cm per linear meter. The mark of the trench can be easily determined by knowing the depth of the drainage pipe - it is approximately equal to the depth of the foundation. In this case, the trench is deepened 300 mm lower - for the installation of a sand cushion and crushed stone backfill.

After laying the pipes and connecting them to the inspection wells, the slope is finally checked, and, if necessary, backfilling or recessing is done - this is the most important stage of the entire work. The slope is checked throughout the drainage system: between inspection wells, between the ring drainage and the last well, as well as the exit from it to the street well or ravine. Everywhere there must be a slope of at least 2 cm per meter.

Wall drainage.

The next stage is filling the pipes with a layer of crushed stone and wrapping this “pie” with geotextile so that the fabric overlaps. All that remains is to backfill - it can be done with sand or soil previously removed from the trench.

Mistakes when installing house drainage and its maintenance

The construction of the drainage system for drainage from the foundations of buildings is carried out in such a way that it is not connected to the deep drainage system. Many people make the mistake of draining rainwater from the roof into the foundation drainage. This is a mistake, since this system is intended exclusively for drainage of groundwater. And water getting into different time years into a deep drainage system - can quickly disable it.

And also a very important point where they make a mistake is the insufficient slope of the drainage pipes and, as a result, stagnation of water in them. This problem is very difficult to fix after all the work is completed. Therefore, the issue of correct and sufficient slope must be given attention from the very beginning of drainage installation. The wall drainage of the foundation is connected to a drainage well, into which water is drained and from the storm sewer, at the same time it has an outlet towards the street well or, if there is none, beyond the territory of the site into a ravine.

Like any other utility network, the foundation drainage system requires periodic inspection and maintenance. This is due to contamination of drainage pipes during operation. For this purpose, inspection wells are provided at the corners of the building. You can lower the hose into them and use a jet of water under pressure to wash away all the sediment, but you need to start from the top point.

Video on arranging foundation drainage

Conclusion

The drainage arrangement near the foundation begins to be decided at the design stage. And this needs to be entrusted to specialized design organizations that can correctly assess the geological features of a particular area and determine the depth of groundwater. Any person can install drainage around the foundation with his own hands according to a ready-made diagram and with knowledge of the technology.

The stability of the structure and the long service life of any building directly depend on the quality of its foundation. The foundation is the support of the entire building structure and reliable foundation, uniformly transferring the load to the ground. It is not surprising that the cost of founding houses sometimes reaches 40% of all construction costs.

Construction of the foundation begins after taking into account the type of soil (sandstone, clay soil, gravel, sandy loam, etc.), the freezing point of the soil in winter, choosing the type of foundation and accurately calculating its dimensions.

If the owners did not provide for a drainage system during the construction of the house, they will notice the consequences of their mistake very quickly. Within a year of operation, dampness will appear in the basement and fungus will spread due to seasonal flooding of the building. In another two to three years, the damp foundation will be covered with cracks, which will move to the base and walls.

All of the above signs are a strong argument in favor of the immediate construction of a storm sewer and the arrangement of a foundation drainage system. Usually these two systems are built simultaneously to comprehensive solution problems with excess moisture. Creating a drainage system is as important as water supply in a private home.

Drainage will help drain the foundation, prevent basement flooding in the spring, and avoid problems with building repairs in the near future.

Building codes

Work is carried out exclusively in the warm season. The optimal period is considered to be from the beginning of June to the end of August, when the air is sufficiently warm and heavy rains are very rare.
Arrangement of drainage is a rather labor-intensive process. For a person working alone, the work will take two to three months. A qualified team will complete the job in an average of three to four weeks. For this reason, owners hire special construction teams.
If the work is carried out independently, additional installation of a polyethylene canopy and boards around the building is required. This precaution will help protect the already dug trenches and the building itself from moisture entering the basement in the event of heavy rain.
During the rainy period of summer, the walls of the trenches are strengthened with gratings to prevent soil from falling into the structure.
The yard is equipped with a system of ladders (blind area) made of wood, which allows you to transport soil and building materials without any fear. This measure is especially relevant if there are lawns or flower beds.
For the most accurate design of the drainage system, preliminary excavation of the foundation is carried out. At this stage, you can accurately determine the depth of the foundation, its shape and dimensions.
Along the way, information is collected about the points of maximum moisture accumulation and groundwater levels in a particular area.
At the next stage, the depth of the pipes and the location of the drainage wells are determined.
And only after this does the list and quantity become obvious building materials.

The following requirements are put forward for the elements of the drainage system:

The trench is dug at a distance of one meter from the house and 10-30 centimeters below its base (that is, pipes are laid below the foundation). The width of the trench should not exceed 35-40 centimeters.
A sand cushion must be laid at the bottom of the trench and a slope towards the water collectors is ensured (approximately 1 cm per meter).
Wells (water collectors) are prohibited from being placed at a distance closer than three meters to the house. The best option will be used plastic container with a drainage hole at the bottom.
It is recommended to place inspection wells at the pipe junctions. These facilities will assist in flushing the system during operation.
If there is high soil moisture in the area, several water collectors are installed. They are placed side by side and connected to each other by pipes.

Work order

The installation of a drainage system begins with foundation preparation, which includes:

digging out the entire foundation of the house (the excavated soil is placed on a special construction site, it is used for backfilling);
digging a trench below the foundation level;
drying the foundation with a gas burner (but it is better if it dries in the fresh air) and cleaning it of soil and remnants of the previous waterproofing;
treating the external part of the base of the house with a primer (bitumen-kerosene mixture);
applying bitumen mastic;
laying reinforced mesh or geotextile fabric on fresh bitumen;
re-application of mastic (about a day later, after the first layer has completely dried).

Gravel is poured into the dug trench. This is a fairly expensive, but high-quality building material that does not shrink and has excellent filtering properties. Each layer of gravel is compacted with a hand roller.

After the preparatory work and arrangement of the gravel filter, you can begin installing the drainage system:

a ditch is dug around the building (depth below the foundation level, width not less than thirty centimeters, distance from the building one meter);
Sand is poured onto the bottom, ensuring a slope towards the water collectors (the thickness of the cushion is from 5 to 10 centimeters);
the bottom and walls are lined with geotextile, the edges of which are temporarily secured with pins;
a layer of gravel ten centimeters thick is poured on top;
plastic pipes for drainage with perforation are laid (produced already wrapped in geotextile);
the pipes are covered with a layer of gravel;
above the backfill, the edges of the geotextile are aligned and sewn together;
inspection wells are located at the corners of the building;
water intakes are located 3-5 meters from the house below the foundation, but above groundwater (not too
in wet soil, two water intake wells are sufficient);
the bottom of all technical pits is lined with geotextiles;
containers for collecting moisture are sprinkled with gravel and covered with soil on top (at the bottom of the water collectors
two or three holes are pre-drilled for water drainage);
pumps are connected (if provided for by the project);
produced backfilling the entire system with soil.

Tools and materials

For construction work you will need:

bayonet and shovel;
hammer and other small construction tools;
drill for working with water collectors;
plastic pipes with perforation (diameter from 7.5 to 10 cm);
fittings for pipeline assembly and crosspieces for inspection wells;
inspection wells with plastic hatches;
plastic tanks for collecting water;
geotextiles in rolls;
bitumen mastic for treating the foundation;
gravel and sand.

Important points

The installation of inspection wells will help in regularly cleaning the pipeline from dirt accumulated inside. Four wells with hatches are enough.

Increased soil moisture requires additional installation of overflow collectors, which serve as backup tanks and are installed next to the main water collection tanks. Main drains are supplied only to the main catchment basins.

It is prohibited to cover the catch basins with soil. This may cause the container to deform or crack. Backfilling is done with fine gravel, which prevents the catchment from soil heaving.

The angle of inclination of the pipes is selected in such a way that the lowest point of the system is 20 cm above the base of the foundation, and the upper point is the same distance below the floor level in the basement.

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Exploitation

A properly constructed drainage system does not require any additional Maintenance except for cleaning or flushing pipes using a pump to pump out water. The procedure is performed depending on the degree of clogging of pipes (drains) once a year or less often with the involvement of specialists.

To prevent freezing of drainage water, it is recommended to place pieces of foam plastic at least 2.5 centimeters thick under the blind area of the building. Polystyrene foam will act as additional thermal insulation.

It is believed that gravel itself retains heat well and prevents freezing of the foundation and drainage pipes.

Installation of blind area and foundation drainage

Draining water from the foundation of a house is a very important procedure, because moisture is the main enemy of the foundation. It can disrupt its integrity and contribute to the appearance of dampness, mold and other unpleasant aspects.

In order for the building to survive for decades without damage, it is necessary to take care of the waterproofing and drainage system of the foundation.

Preparatory work

Proper drainage of the foundation of the house will help protect the building from dampness. This work can be done comprehensively in several stages:

At the very beginning, the base needs to be dug up, and the excess soil carefully placed nearby for reuse.
If the house is not new, the soil is carefully cleaned from the tiled structures and the old waterproofing is removed.
The base is thoroughly dried in open air; during wet weather, gas burners can be used for this purpose.
Waterproofing the foundation.

Features of waterproofing device

Before draining groundwater, it is necessary to waterproof the walls and floor of the basement, basement and base of the foundation. Here are some important points to consider:

the coating used for these purposes must be complete without gaps or cracks;
on the side that experiences greater moisture pressure, additional protection is applied with insulating material;
It is necessary to have a blind area around the house, choose the correct width and degree of inclination. It will allow water to be removed from the building not only by drainage, but also by installing a storage pit. If there is a blind area, puddles will not form. It protects the foundation and soil from water penetration.

The blind area is important in protecting the building from moisture.

Organization of waterproofing for different types of foundation

Arrangements for protecting a constructed building from moisture vary depending on the type of foundation. The most common types are slab, pile, column, strip and monolithic foundations.

Plates

Here it is best to wrap the foundation with rolled roofing felt. When any irregularities are detected.

They must be removed using a leveling screed.

Then on concrete plates place water-repellent material and insulation and level the surface again.

Pile and column types

It is not easy to waterproof concrete piles and pillars. It is provided by adding water-repellent additives to concrete. Wooden structures are treated with special liquids that prevent rotting and moisture absorption.

Strip and monolithic foundations

To properly waterproof these types of foundations, the following several methods are used. They are varied and quite effective.

Treat the foundation with a special mastic, only the surface must be dry and smooth. This method is not entirely reliable, so to strengthen the composition it is necessary to cover it with insulation or build a brick wall.
Just as in the first case, you need to carry out all the manipulations using hot bitumen mastic, and stick roofing material on top in 2 layers with an overlap of about 15 cm.
Using a special sprayer, a water-repellent composition is applied to the dry foundation. It is advisable to use geotextiles on top, then the waterproofing will last a long time.
Another reliable and quality method– penetrating waterproofing. It contains quartz sand, cement and special additives. This mass has penetrating properties.

Moisture and precipitation occur almost everywhere, so a waterproofing system is important in the process of protecting a structure from their penetration.

Drainage system

Water is removed from the foundation by organizing drainage around the house. Before implementing it, you need to know some features of the work:

installation work is carried out in summer in dry, warm weather;
to build a foundation drainage with your own hands, it will take 2 to 3 months;
After preparing the ditches, it is advisable to build a canopy over them to protect from rain;
if the soil is in a loose state, then the walls of the ditch must be thoroughly strengthened;
from the appropriate authority you need to obtain information about the condition of the soil, as well as conduct a small experiment to determine where moisture is most collected;
Having learned comprehensive information, you can draw a drainage diagram for the building, calculate how much material will be needed and the cost of the structure.

Types of drainage

Before choosing a way to drain water from the foundation, you need to know what types of foundation drainage systems there are and choose the appropriate one.

According to the design of the building, three types are distinguished:

wall-mounted – constructed in a building with a basement or basement;
ring - suitable for buildings without a cellar, basement or basement;
slab - used under the foundation slab.

Wall drainage

Today this design is widely known and used everywhere. Typically, foundation wall drainage is installed at the construction stage, before the walls are erected. It is possible after construction, but its cost will increase in this case.

It is necessary when there is a possibility of basement flooding. Sometimes waterproofing can protect against groundwater, but most often owners are satisfied with the design of wall drainage. Its specificity – V close location from the house.

Wall drainage is created along the perimeter of the base; inspection wells are installed in the corners. The required number of pipes to be laid, which are located at an angle, is calculated.

Geotextiles

Wall foundation drainage has the following features:

First, the foundation walls are protected with a waterproofing material, such as liquid rubber.
Along the top of the wall, a profiled membrane is glued overlapping with special glue to prevent water seepage.
The lower edge of the membrane must be laid on the soil and pipes covered with geotextiles must be installed.
The area around the building drainage should be filled with sand and gravel.
Pipes can be taken of different diameters, from 5 to 20 cm, everything is determined by the depth of the flood waters. They are laid at a slope of 1-2% towards the drainage well.
To clean the drainage system, vertical pipes with plugs, the same height as the blind area, are placed in the corners. Cleaning is carried out by running a stream into the device tap water. To learn how to install wall drainage, watch this video:

For clay soil, geotextile fabric is necessary. If the soil is made of crushed stone or sand, then you can do without such material.

Ring drainage

To find a way out of the situation of how to drain water from the foundation of a house that does not have a basement or basement, you can turn to the foundation ring drainage system .

To do this, a closed set of trenches with a depth exceeding the level of the foundation by half a meter is erected around the structure.

When constructing such a structure, you need to pay attention to the following:

drainage around the foundation should be located at least 50 cm below it;
here a pipe slope of about 1% towards the water collection tank is also required. To do this, the distance between the boundaries of the building’s drainage is calculated and the required indicator is determined;
the gap between the house and the drainage trench should be from 5 to 8 m.

Ring drainage diagram

The process of constructing a ring drainage

To make it easier to create drainage for the foundation, you can make markings. For this purpose, various pegs are used, which can be easily removed.

You can arrange ring drainage as follows:

At a distance of 5 m from the house, you need to dig a deep ditch larger than the height and width of the house foundation in order to fit a pipe with a diameter of 11 cm. There should still be 10 cm indentations from the pipe on each side.
Sand in a layer of up to 100 mm is placed at the bottom with a slope towards the reservoir. This way the water can drain on its own.
The drainage pipe is placed in the trench, on geotextiles, its ends are fixed to the walls of the ditch. The pipe is laid in a trench, covered with gravel to a depth of 50 cm, then wrapped in material twice. The seams of the structure are fastened and covered with sand or gravel.
The pipes are connected, but not at a right angle, so that silt does not accumulate.
To construct an inspection well, a hole is dug and a container with a hole for water drainage is placed. Here you also need to place geotextiles on the bottom to prevent pebbles from falling into it.
If the soil is heavy and does not drain water well, a solid pipe can be used for drainage.
If there is a large accumulation of water in the tank, it can be pumped out and watered for garden plants.

Reservoir method of water drainage

Drainage under the foundation slab is necessary to ensure that the properties of the structure are maintained when in contact with water. This means removing water and preventing its effects on the foundation of the house. For more information about drainage work on the site, watch this video:

Drainage installation under the foundation slab can be done different ways. One of the popular ones is the layer type. Its essence is as follows:

A ditch is dug 1 m deep than the size of the building.
A slight slope is established from the center to the sides.
Geotextiles are laid, then a 10 cm layer of sand and a 30 cm layer of crushed stone are alternated to level the bottom of the pit.

Reservoir drainage is used in the presence of various aquifers, pressurized groundwater, the location of the basement below the aquifer and the appearance of capillary penetration of liquid.

Drainage for strip foundation

Drainage is arranged for this type of foundation due to the high presence of groundwater, highly moist soil or the risk of flooding of the site. Properly arranged drainage of the strip foundation of a house will help to avoid deformation of the concrete strip during thawing or freezing of the soil. Here it is also necessary not to forget about a properly executed blind area so that moisture cannot easily penetrate to the base.

To choose the right type of drainage, you need to know the characteristics of the soil. Only in this case will it effectively and reliably perform the function of drainage.

Creation of a drainage system

When purchasing a plot to build a cottage, developers face certain problems. This includes the topography of the site and the characteristic features of the soil; the level of surface and groundwater is also of great importance. Conventional devices that serve as waterproofing for the foundation of a house sometimes fail to fully protect the foundation from moisture. Foundation drainage in these cases will be the only correct solution. Thanks to special underground sewer water will pass around the foundation, which will create complete protection from moisture.

Foundation drainage diagram.

To build such a canal system, the developer can attract specialists, but this service is not cheap and will cost quite a lot of money. In companies specializing in this type of service, one linear meter of drainage system costs $50 and more. By making the system yourself, you can significantly reduce costs. But you should prepare for difficulties. It is best if the system is carried out during the construction of the foundation, this will save a lot of your energy. You can often hear that excellent waterproofing can be achieved using a tire foundation. But this is a frivolous approach, and when using this method, it is better not to remember about drainage.

It is simply necessary to make a drainage system under certain conditions, because sometimes the foundation of a house really requires additional protection from a damp environment.

Reservoir drainage diagram.

The following conditions are typical for the construction of a drainage system:

the bottom of the foundation is below the groundwater level;
the distance from the bottom of the foundation to groundwater is less than half a meter. During spring rises in groundwater or surface water levels, such a distance is considered dangerous, since water fluctuations can lead to very sad consequences: for example, the destruction of concrete.
soil in winter time has a large freezing depth. As a result, the earth will begin to swell, which will lead to a bevel of the foundation, cracks in the walls, etc.

Main types of drainage for foundations

Drainage systems can be divided into vertical, horizontal and combined. Vertical drainage is mainly used in mines or swimming pools. Such a system is equipped with pumps and special drainage wells for pumping out water. When the water drops, meter-long wells are made in the basement of the building and pumps with alarm floats are installed.

A horizontal drainage system is a horizontal pipe system. It can be open or closed. The system is divided into three parts: collecting, drainage and water receiving. Open horizontal drainage is often used to drain large areas, for example on farms. For private homes and industry, closed drainage is used. You can often find a combined type of drainage.

So, drainage for the foundations of a house involves the creation of a special drainage system of channels for underground or surface water. The construction of a drainage system largely depends on the groundwater level, the topography of the site and the magnitude of the surface slope relative to the horizontal plane.

Foundation drainage: basic systems

Scheme of water drainage from the foundation of the house.

Whichever system is chosen, the following tools will be required:

shovels (bayonet, shovel);
pick;
electric or pneumatic powered hammer drill;
a cart or wheelbarrow for removing soil and bringing in sand and crushed stone;
building level.

In addition to tools, you will need the following materials:

pipes (according to building codes, the use of pipes made of asbestos cement, ceramics or plastic is allowed for the construction of drainage systems);
sand;
crushed stone

Wall foundation drainage

If a developer plans to build a house with a basement or lower floor (ground floor), as a rule, wall foundation drainage is used.

It is usually placed around the base of the house at a distance of no more than a meter. Thanks to this type of drainage, the foundation base is reliably protected from the seasonal rise of groundwater, rain and melt water. If the system is built correctly, the basement will remain dry, without the slightest sign of moisture, salt deposits and mold.

Scheme of waterproofing strip foundation.

The wall type of foundation drainage is an installed pipe system lying on a slope and located below the deepest point of the foundation. Such a system is closed. To make it more convenient to clear blockages in the future, inspection wells are built in each corner of the system. At the lowest point of the system - the collection well - water is collected thanks to crushed stone located around the drainage pipes, and from there it is discharged beyond the boundaries of the site. To drain the water, you can use various convenient methods of removal. Thanks to drainage, the influence of groundwater on the foundation is significantly reduced. But to completely isolate the foundation from water, it is necessary to make high-quality waterproofing of the base itself, since capillary penetration of moisture will threaten the destruction of the concrete structure.

The main stages of constructing wall drainage under the foundation.

To waterproof the base, make a special solution (bitumen with kerosene), which is used to prime the basement wall. Then a layer of mastic is applied, into which a reinforcing mesh of nylon threads is embedded. Cover the top with a second layer of mastic and allow to dry.
The trench is dug at a distance of no more than 1 meter and a depth of no more than 2.5 meters. Drainage pipes must be laid flush with the bottom of the foundation. Sand is poured onto the bottom and geotextiles are laid. The width of the fabric should be sufficient to wrap the pipe without leaving gaps.
Add coarse crushed stone and lay drainage pipes with a slope of 1 cm for each linear meter. This is done so that the water flows down on its own and does not stagnate.
Crushed stone is added again. The layer height should be approximately 0.5 m.
The pipe is covered with geotextile. It is advisable to wrap it overlapping and secure it with polypropylene rope.
For additional filtration, river sand or gravel is poured on top. Sand is convenient because it easily allows moisture to pass through and does not swell in cold weather.
At the end of the work, the backfill should be compacted to avoid subsidence.

Foundation ring drainage

Wall drainage diagram.

This type of drainage is arranged if the planned house does not have a basement or ground floor. The soil also plays an important role. On sandy or clay soils, a ring drainage system around the house is encouraged. You can make a ring drainage around several houses at once if they are on sandy soil. Also, if you have a relatively deep basement, when a conventional drainage system cannot cope, you should install a ring drainage.

The main difference between ring drainage and wall drainage is the location of the drainage system relative to the base of the foundation. The distance around the base will exceed 3 meters. Sometimes developers use ring drainage after the foundation has already been laid, and it will be expensive to dig it up again.

Ring drainage will be most reliable if the distance between the base of the house and the ring is 5 m or more. This is necessary to ensure that the foundation does not settle due to insufficient drainage. For more accurate calculations, you can use geological exploration data.

Basic steps for constructing a ring foundation drainage.

At a relatively large distance from the base of the foundation and below the level of the base of the base, trenches are dug.
If the drainage pipes do not have special filters, then the bottom of the trench is covered with gravel or crushed stone and then covered with geotextiles. This is a special material consisting of polypropylene and polyester. It is not susceptible to the harmful effects of fungi and mold. The service life exceeds 20 years.
After laying the pipes, a layer of sand and gravel is poured. It will protect the drainage pipe from damage and clogging with soil.
The entire system leads to an inspection well. It serves as a kind of node through which preventive work on the drainage system can be performed.

Foundation ring drainage is an inexpensive solution for draining ground and surface water. It reliably and effectively protects the foundation of the house from destruction and corrosion, prevents the appearance of dampness and mold in the walls of houses.

DIY foundation drainage

Closely located groundwater or a large accumulation of moisture in the soil have a negative impact on any buildings, especially on the foundation. Therefore, to eliminate excess moisture, it is necessary to take measures related to the installation of a drainage system. Making foundation drainage is not so difficult if you know the features of its installation and the technology for carrying out the work.

The need for drainage for the foundation and its function

Even deep groundwater in some cases requires the arrangement of drainage; a large number of factors are considered in each specific case. In some situations, drainage around the foundation must be done anyway. Here are some of them:

When the basement is deep, when it is below the groundwater level, or less than half a meter from the basement floor to it;
If the basement is located in loamy or clay soil, the level of groundwater passage in this case is not taken into account;
When the depth of underground premises is more than 1-1.5 meters in loamy or clayey soil conditions;
If the place where the building is located is an area of capillary humidification.

Based on the above, we can conclude that drainage is necessary when groundwater is located in critical proximity to the building, or passes high enough, creating the impression of a swampy area with no vegetation. There is no need to develop such a system when the soil is dry, and even during the rainy season the groundwater level does not rise to critical levels.

The main functions of the drainage system include:

If the correct choice of drainage type is made, and the design is carried out in accordance with the design, then the pipes and wells included in the drainage system will significantly reduce the likelihood of the formation of gaps and cracks in the foundation, improving its strength characteristics.

Types of drainage

Depending on the depth of installation of the drainage system, wall foundation drainage is distinguished:

Each of these types of drainage can be either ring type or sheet type.

The ring type scheme is a closed loop that encircles the perimeter of the building. With a deep laying system, such a structure can also be laid radially along the entire plane of the structure.

It is most advisable to build reservoir drainage in the case of a “Swedish slab” type building foundation. It is laid at a level lower than the foundation plane. The peculiarity of its laying technology is that drainage pipes are laid on a sand and gravel bed, which are covered with a foundation slab on top.

Required tools and materials

To make foundation drainage with your own hands, you will need tools and materials such as:

You can get some valuable tips that will help answer the question of how to drain the foundation by watching the video

Work technology

Making foundation drainage with your own hands is quite simple; to do this, you need to adhere to certain rules for its design, depending on the type of foundation of the building.

Slab foundation

Drainage of a slab foundation consists of the following stages:

Columnar (pile) foundation

Drainage of a pile foundation is done in this way:

A layer of 20 cm of sand and crushed stone is placed in a ditch dug around the perimeter of the building, and a drainage pipe is placed on top;
A layer of crushed stone of 30 cm is again poured on top, and geotextiles are laid;
Everything is covered with earth.

Rules for organizing the drainage system

After completing all the work, it is necessary to make wells into which excess water will flow. There are some rules for installing them:

Installation of the drainage system is done at a distance of 1.5 - 3 meters from the foundation. The slope should be towards the main receiving well, its origin should be from the far corner well.

To make your foundation protected from moisture, precipitation, and groundwater, you should use the most suitable drainage system, choosing its type depending on the foundation and soil characteristics.

High-quality drainage, carried out according to the rules, can reliably protect the house from flooding, prevent the formation of excess moisture, mold and mildew on the walls of the base or basement, and also extend the life of the entire house.

House foundation drainage

The foundation is the basis for any type of structure and ensures its safety and durability. The creation of the base is carried out after assessing the type of soil and choosing a system for removing excess moisture. Drainage of the foundation of a private house will eliminate flooding of basements and washing out of soil around the building. Proper design of the water drainage system will extend the service life of the entire building. The price of drainage depends on a number of factors, including the complexity and duration of the work, and the type of materials used. Our company in Moscow offers a drainage system with which you can drain the foundation of your house with your own hands.

Why install a drainage system around your home?

Drainage around the foundation is necessary to protect the underlying building support structure from the damaging effects of groundwater. A properly functioning moisture drainage system will protect the basement of the house from flooding and eliminate the possibility of waterlogging in the surrounding area. If you neglect the installation of a foundation drainage system, the service life of the building will be significantly reduced. The structure will be negatively affected by waterlogged soil and heaving caused by low temperatures. A competent drainage system also provides for drainage throughout the entire site.

Established standards

Groundwater drainage must be arranged in accordance with the project. The system must comply with established building codes. They include the following conditions:

carrying out installation work in the warm season: it is best to opt for the summer months from June to August, since during this period heavy rains rarely occur and the air is quite dry;
When installing it yourself, you will need to build an additional canopy around the building, made of boards and polyethylene. This measure will protect the house and trenches from sudden precipitation;
if installation takes place in conditions of high soil moisture, then the trenches are additionally reinforced with special gratings to prevent the walls from collapsing;
In order to most accurately design the drainage of water from the foundation, you will need to carry out preliminary excavation of the foundation. This procedure is necessary to accurately determine the depth, shape and size of the foundation;
for safe and convenient transportation of building materials and soil, the yard is equipped with a system of ladders - blind areas, which are made of boards;
it is also necessary to collect information about the places of greatest accumulation of water and the general level of ground moisture in a particular area.

Elements of the drainage system must be selected based on the following requirements:

the trench should be located at a distance of one meter from the house, 15-30 centimeters deeper than the foundation level. The width of the trench is 30-40 centimeters;
the lower part of the trench is lined with a sand cushion, maintaining a slope directed towards the drainage basins;
wells should not be located closer than 3 meters from the building. As a water collector, you can use a container made of thick plastic with drainage holes at the bottom;
inspection wells are placed at pipe connection areas, since these structures ensure easy flushing of the drainage system during operation;
The higher the level of soil moisture on the territory of a private house, the more wells are installed to collect excess moisture. As a rule, they are located close to each other.

Do-it-yourself foundation drainage device

With due diligence and certain skills, it is quite possible to install foundation drainage yourself. First of all, you need to prepare the foundation of the house:

dig out the foundation of the entire structure. The soil is removed to the side - it will be needed when completing the work for back-filling the trenches;
then they dig trenches that are located below the level of the base of the house;
the foundation should then be left to dry naturally in the open air. If the ambient humidity is too high, you can achieve the result using a gas burner. After this, the foundation is cleaned of the remnants of the old waterproofing;
foundation drainage requires treating the outer part of the building with a special primer, which consists of a mixture of bitumen and kerosene;
bitumen mastic is applied, on which geotextiles or reinforced mesh are then installed;
After 24 hours, re-coat with mastic.

Gravel is poured into the finished trench, each layer of which is leveled with a hand roller. After this, the concrete can be poured. After completing the preparatory stage, it is necessary to begin arranging the drainage system. The process includes steps:

digging a ditch around the building with a depth below the level of the base of the house and a width of at least 35 centimeters, the distance from the building is one meter;
then sand is poured into it, taking into account the slope towards the wells;
the ditch is lined with geotextiles, securing the edges of the fabric with pins;
then pour a layer of gravel no more than 10 centimeters high;
plastic pipes with perforations, wrapped in geotextile, are laid in trenches and covered with gravel;
the edges of the geofabric are combined and fastened to each other;
inspection wells are placed in the corners of the building;
water collectors are located below the base of the building, but above the groundwater level;
technical pits are completely covered with geotextile;
containers with holes in the bottom used to collect water are filled with gravel and then covered with a layer of soil;
then, depending on the project, the pump is connected;
at the final stage, the system is completely covered with the remaining soil.

With a competent approach, drainage under the foundation, installed independently, will not require special care. It is enough to clean the pipes from time to time as they become clogged. This procedure is carried out using a pump to pump out excess water. To protect against freezing, layers of foam plastic about 3 centimeters thick are placed under the blind area. A high-quality drainage system will extend the life of the building and protect against a number of unpleasant consequences of flooding a private home or nearby areas.

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