Although stair railings are considered a minor design detail because they are not always used, they are important enough to be discussed. The main function is to ensure safety and convenience when moving along a flight of stairs. The design of the railings plays an important role.
Wood, concrete, metal and glass are traditionally used for manufacturing. The latter is usually used to fill the distances between posts.
In this article we will talk about metal railings for stairs .
Sketches of railings and fences - photos and drawings
Sketches of railings are an integral part of the design and help to present the final picture in more detail. Photos of railings, computer graphics or hand drawings are suitable for these purposes.
Stair railing elements
Railing - These are stair railings that protect people from falling out and ensure convenient operation of the structure. Accessories for railings:
- Balusters . Support posts with which the fence is attached to the stairs. Perform load-bearing and decorative functions.
- Filling fences
. It is necessary in order to close the space between the racks, and thereby ensure the safety of movement along the stairs. Partitions are required if there are children in the house. There are several main types of filling (shown in the photo).
- classic. Consist only of vertical or inclined balusters;
- solid panels. This type of fencing is a set of wide sheets. Typically used when combining railings with glass.
- filling with crossbars. In this case, the space between the balusters is closed with horizontal metal rods - crossbars or rails, located parallel to the handrails.
Handrails - fencing elements that are installed on balusters on one side of the flight of stairs or on both. Can also be mounted on the wall. Handrail overlays provide a comfortable and pleasant hand grip.
Types of railings for stairs - materials and manufacturing methods
Before explaining how to make a railing for a staircase, we need to choose which metal is best suited for our purposes.
- aluminum;
- iron;
- cast iron;
- steel railings.
The choice of material depends on many factors, but the most important is the purpose of the product. For example, for exterior railings, stainless steel is best, which produces nickel-plated railings. Or cast iron, products from which can be seen in old entrances or on bridges.
Aluminum railings are great for indoor use and can take on more complex shapes (screw or rotary). Iron is generally used for mass production. It is difficult to process and is not suitable for homemade products.
According to the manufacturing method, the following types of railings are distinguished:
Prefabricated railings for stairs
The railings are assembled from steel or aluminum parts. In the first case, upon completion of the work, the railings are painted, in the second, a special protective coating is applied. Aluminum railings have the following advantages:
- ease of installation (you can do it yourself);
- cheapness;
- low weight of the structure.
The listed advantages are due to the fact that prefabricated fences are manufactured without the use of welding. If necessary, the structure can be easily dismantled.
According to the method of applying the protective coating, railings and handrails are divided into:
- fences with polymer coating;
- anodized aluminum railings.
- steel with chrome plating.
Welded railings for stairs - photo of metal fences
Welded railings for stairs are made of steel or ferrous metal. Their advantage is strength and durability. However, with proper finishing, such products also turn out to be very beautiful. To shape stainless steel railings, the method of “cold” metal bending is used. This type of design is characterized by the presence of geometric patterns.
The disadvantage of welded iron railings is their susceptibility to corrosion and the need for periodic painting. Stainless steel railings do not have this drawback. The service life of such products is about 50 years. They do not require painting or additional care. If necessary, you can repair the railings yourself. The surface of the steel is processed using polishing, grinding or satin finishing.
Welding of railings is divided into two types:
- semi-automatic;
- argon-arc.
The disadvantage of the first method is a large amount of splashes. The second method does not have this drawback and is therefore more common. The seam produced by argon welding is more accurate and lends itself well to further processing, which includes stripping and polishing. The handrail is fastened using a hardware assembly or by gluing with a special glue.
Wrought iron railings for stairs - photos of stair railings
Forged stair railings are distinguished by their exquisite appearance and complex manufacturing process. They are made using the artistic forging method, often according to an individual project. Any finishing options and a mixture of styles are possible - from light, openwork, airy structures to massive ones that create a feeling of reliability.
Forged stair railings will give any product or interior a unique charm of antiquity and good quality.
Wrought iron railings for stairs offer a huge variety of colors: gold, silver, copper, etc. The only drawback of such products is their extremely high price.
Cast fences and railings
To make cast fences and railings, a sample of the future product is first prepared, from which a mold is made. Next, molten metal (bronze, cast iron, brass) is poured into it. After the material hardens, it is further processed. Casting has a number of advantages:
- durability and strength;
- variety of forms.
Combined railings for stairs
Combined fencing involves a combination of different materials. For example, powder-coated chrome railings, steel handrails and glass inserts, or aluminum handrails. This variety makes combined railings a universal solution, suitable for almost every staircase.
Requirements for stair railings - standards for railings and handrails
The requirements for fencing (GOST and SNiP) are determined by their main function - ensuring safety during ascent and descent. In this regard, the design must comply with certain standards:
- the height of stair railings is from 90 cm to a meter.
- the racks are installed from each other at a distance of about 60 cm;
- the space between the balusters is filled using one of the methods described above;
- if the handrail is attached to the wall, then the distance from it to the wall should be 7-10 cm;
- handrail overlays must be smooth and continuous, with a cross-section of 5 cm;
- handrails for stairs protrude 30 cm beyond the step line and have a rounded end;
- the structure must withstand a load of at least 100 kg per meter.
On stairs installed in children's institutions, the handrail should be duplicated at a height of 50 cm. And the distance between the posts is reduced to 10 cm so that the child cannot stick his head through.
Installing handrails with your own hands - installation of stair railings video
It is difficult to overestimate how important reliable installation of stair railings is. First of all, the safety of people depends on this. If you don’t know how to install railings, but want to do it yourself, choose one of two methods:
Attaching the handrail to the wall - installation on stairs
Fastening the handrail to the wall is used if the staircase is located near the wall. In this case, racks are not needed; the handrails are installed using special brackets, the size of which is designed so that the distance from the handrail to the wall is about 7-10 cm.
The handrail bracket can be of two types:
- cast;
- articulated
When using the second type, it is possible to adjust the tilt of the handrail, which is very convenient. The structure is easy to assemble and can be quickly dismantled if necessary.
Attaching balusters to steps - handrails to stairs
Installation of balusters can be done in three ways:
- single- the simplest and least reliable method, when the stand is attached only to an anchor (dowel). But, as a rule, it is quite enough;
- flange mounting– involves fixing the flange using self-tapping screws. For maximum reliability, use three self-tapping screws;
- anti-vandal fastening of fences- the most reliable. With the help of a drill, holes are drilled in the steps and embedded parts are placed in them, onto which pipes for the railings are attached.
Fastening to a step
- Installing railings using this method begins with marking out the places on the steps where the posts will be located. They should be located at a distance of 5-10 cm from the edges of the step and at a distance of 30-60 cm from each other.
- First, the first and last pillars are installed. For single mounting To do this, holes 12 cm deep and 16 mm in diameter are drilled into the steps. Anchors (dowels) are inserted into the holes, onto which balusters are mounted.
For flange mounting Three holes are drilled, 8 cm deep and 1.2 cm in diameter, into which dowels are inserted. The flange is secured with self-tapping screws and the stand is attached to it. An example is shown in the photo. During installation, you must ensure that the entrance pillars are vertical, as they will serve as a guide for the rest of the balusters.
- Pull a cord along the top of the outer posts and install balusters, aligning them with the cord. Then check the verticality of each and attach to the steps.
Stainless steel handrails can be attached either on top of the balusters, with self-tapping screws, or on the side, using flanges.
- Before installation, cut stainless steel handrails to the required length at a right angle. Determine where holes need to be drilled by placing the handrail against the posts. Place on hinges and secure.
- If the space between the racks is filled using crossbars, then it is necessary to cut them into pieces of the required size, determine the mounting locations on the racks (usually 2 or 3) and drill holes. Fix the crossbar on the balusters.
If glass panels are used as filling, then special holders must be installed on the rack and the panels secured with their help.
The disadvantage of fastening “on a step” is that the fence reduces the width of the flight. Therefore, this method is undesirable for narrow stairs. In this case, it is preferable to mount the racks at the end.
Attaching balusters to the end of the step
Such fastening of the railing is possible when the distance between the flights is at least 70 cm. The baluster is installed at the end using two anchors. There are four possible ways:
- Fastening balusters to two expansion anchors through a sleeve. It is used in cases where it is necessary to place the stand at a short distance from the step. At the end of the step, 2 recesses are drilled into which expansion anchors are inserted through holes in the racks and bushings with decorative overlays so that the end of the anchor protrudes slightly. A cap nut is screwed onto this end, expanding it and securing it.
- Side mount. In this case, the balusters are threaded into special holders and fixed. And expansion anchors secure them to the flight of stairs.
- On two expansion anchors without the use of a sleeve. In this case, the stand is adjacent to the end of the step. It differs from the first method only in that a bushing is not used.
- Fastening with a chemical anchor. Chemical or liquid nails are an adhesive substance that penetrates deeply into concrete and firmly holds it together. This method is used if it is necessary to secure stair railings into a concrete structure. So, an anchor and a pin are inserted into the hole filled with the mixture.
After the balusters are secured, the remaining installation of the railings is carried out. In the same way as when installing ON a stage (described above). The stainless steel staircase railings are ready.
- racks cannot be installed in places where there is a difference in height and bending of the handrails (fracture);
- during installation, in places of branch and fracture, it is necessary to adjust the joint as accurately as possible;
- If possible, the joints of the crossbars should be made so that they are covered with fasteners or special fittings;
- When installing racks on steps lined with tiles, it is necessary to make a mark on the surface so that the drill with a diamond core does not slip.
If you follow these rules, you can assemble the stair railings with your own hands. This is a very real task if you approach it methodically and slowly.
Do-it-yourself installation of stainless steel railings is quite accessible for people who have skills in working with plumbing and power tools.
To perform installation you will need:
- angle grinder (grinder);
- electric drill;
- drills for working with stainless steel and wood;
- curly screwdrivers;
- building level;
- mount and hexagon for it.
Installation sequence
The first stage of fencing installation is the installation of the first and last posts that bear the main load. After this, a cord is stretched between them, which will mark the path for installing intermediate supports (balusters). To attach the racks to the floor, use a special mounting panel. It should be installed no closer than 50 mm from the edge of the step.
Upon completion of the installation of all racks and balusters, mark the fastening points at their upper end.
Next, install the fasteners that will be used as handrail clamps. The installation of railings is carried out in pre-prepared fastenings using special plugs and rotary fastenings, which makes it possible to obtain a reliable and aesthetically beautiful fencing for staircases.
Support stand mounting options
In order to attach the support post to the surface of the floor or stairs, use:
Single mount
One of the fastest ways to fix racks. It consists of installing the racks on one anchor, which will be fully responsible for the reliability of the fastening. Despite the speed of work, this option is characterized by the least reliability in comparison with anti-vandal or flange mounting.
Anti-vandal mount
It implies that holes will be drilled in the floor surface, into which the mortgages will then be placed. The fastening of the mortgages to the rack is covered with a special decorative overlay. This mounting option has the highest reliability and load-bearing characteristics. Thanks to the use of modern equipment, it is possible to drill in almost any material: concrete, marble, stone, wood, granite, etc.
Flange mounting
It is a mounting of a stand to a flange, which is secured using several anchors. Most often, flange mounting is performed with 3 anchors to ensure the highest level of reliability.
When choosing a method for attaching support posts, you should take into account the basic requirements of regulatory documentation regarding permissible loads on stainless steel fences:
for structures that are installed in kindergartens, schools, residential buildings, medical institutions, cultural and recreation centers - 36 kgf/m;
for sports, gyms and stands - 180 kgf/m;
for all other premises, buildings and structures - 96 kgf/m.
Railings on the wall (for walls) are installed horizontally along the flight of stairs in cases where one or both sides of the stairs are limited by walls along the entire length of the flight. In this case, there is no point in installing railings on racks, since there is nowhere for a person walking up the stairs to fall (there are walls), but they need to hold on to something, especially if we are talking about elderly people or children. Both require hand support on at least one wall. This is where a wall handrail comes to the rescue, single or double, depending on the installation location.
As a rule, in private houses and cottages a single wall is installed (this is what a wall handrail is sometimes called), and in medical or children's and school institutions - a double wall. At the same time, safety standards regulate the installation height of double handrails at the level of 900 and 700 mm for the low-mobility category of citizens (elderly and disabled people), and for children the same indicator is standardized at heights of 700 and 500 mm, respectively. Of course, in private houses there is no regulation on heights; everything is limited by common sense, convenience and aesthetics. Traditionally, wall handrails are located at a height of 900 mm from the floor.
It is important to take all these indicators into account at the design stage. The ABC Peril group of companies in Moscow will fulfill your order at all stages of the work from design development to turnkey installation.
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Features of the design of the walls
There are several fundamental differences by which wall railings and handrails are chosen:
- double handrail for disabled people on the ramp;
- double metal handrails for pensioners and the elderly;
- double children's railings;
- in all other cases, a single model is used.
The first three options, depending on the width of the stairs and the length of the flight, are made with ties at turns or breaks at corners, but with ties in the form of “donuts” at the end to ensure safety in accordance with GOST and SNiP standards.
At commercial and private facilities, single handrails on turns are tied for greater comfort, but this increases the cost of the handrails, as the material consumption of the finished product increases. The cost is especially strongly influenced by the need to manufacture radially bent or screw handrails, since this kind of work requires special expensive tools and highly qualified contractors. Our company has many years of experience in the production of both straight and curved railings made of stainless steel, wood, ferrous metal, brass or plastic (PVC).
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Wall railing material
Ferrous metal handrails are the least expensive, but to protect them from corrosion they must be coated with enamel primer or powder paint. The first option is easy to tint without the help of hired contractors, but this coating does not last long, so the appearance of the metal handrail on the walls will have to be corrected every year. On the other hand, if the product is installed indoors, its service life increases significantly, and its restoration will not be required for many years.
In the case where it is necessary to install a wall handrail outside a building (on the street), a powder-coated coating is best suited, since the paint layer is literally “baked” in a special oven along with the railing, creating a uniform polymer layer that is very resistant to mechanical damage and prevents corrosion. On the other hand, this option is much more expensive than its traditionally painted counterpart and does not provide for the possibility of partial restoration in the area of the chip, other than a complete replacement of the coating, which is equivalent in cost to the manufacture of a new wall.
Stainless steel
The most optimal combination of price and quality for handrails in the house is a stainless steel handrail. Polished steel is ideal for both an office and a private home, because the silvery reflections scattering sparks of light around give rise to a unique feeling of joy and optimism. Indoors, without changes in humidity and temperature, it is enough to choose AISI 201 stainless steel, outdoors - its more advanced analogue AISI 304. Well, along busy highways and highways it is necessary to use AISI 316, because only its properties will allow you to preserve the shine and beauty of the railings for many years even under the influence of an aggressive environment.
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Wood or plastic?
For those customers who value natural materials, the option with wooden railings on the wall is certainly preferable. We suggest using oak or beech as the most durable and strong types of wood with special treatment with wear-resistant varnish and pre-tinted color. However, it should be noted that wood is an expensive material, especially if ties are needed at the corners. Although here you can save money by using metal fittings - hinges or bends at the joints of the handrails will act as a ligament, but will not affect the price as much as if joining by extending wood was used.
A plastic wall handrail allows you to imitate a wooden texture and significantly save on price, especially when you need ties at turns in the form of radial bends, but this material is not durable, so PVC handrails cannot be installed outdoors. When exposed to direct sunlight, plastic not only fades, losing its gloss, saturation and color, but also sags between the fasteners. It is also recommended to use plastic handrails on walls indoors with caution, as they can easily be scratched by keys, bracelets, even just a ring or finger ring. So you need to approach the choice of material and cost consciously and be sure to first consult with the specialists of our company, finding out all the details. Please note, this is completely free.
Gold and luxury
To install a stainless steel fence, you can do without the involvement of qualified installers and welding work. Step-by-step instructions for assembling stainless steel railings will help you independently arrange a staircase or porch in a private house.
Before you begin assembling stainless steel railings, make sure you have the necessary tools and materials:
- drill with impact function;
- a set of drills (for ceramics, concrete and stainless steel);
- Bulgarian;
- metal cutting disc;
- deburring attachment;
- velvet file;
- grinding paste;
- screwdriver or shaped screwdriver;
- marker;
- building level;
- hex wrench;
- roulette;
- pipe Ø50 mm (handrail);
- pipe Ø38 mm (stands);
- pipe Ø16 mm (crossbars);
- chemical anchor;
- glue "Moment";
- rack tips;
- handrail fastenings;
- supports;
- flanges;
- bends and turns;
- plugs;
- rags.
Work order
Step No. 1 - Installation of racks
Mark the places for drilling holes for the main racks on the first and penultimate step of the stairs: for racks without a flange - one hole, and for racks with a flange - three.
Clean and blow out the drilled holes. Fill them with chemical anchor. Insert a pin into one of the holes for the flange post and carefully use a spatula to remove any excess chemical anchor that comes out of the hole.
The capercaillie and the anchor are inserted into the other holes. Open the anchor and insert the post. Screw a plumbing screw into the capercaillie, and then screw on the head of the anchor and tighten it well. Place the washer and gromver on the stud. Tighten the nut and cover the base of the stand with the cover.
ADVICE! Next to the first rack, it is better to install another rack in the form of a handrail on the floor. If this is not possible, then install the next rack on the next step, i.e. as close as possible to the first rack!
Step No. 2 - Installation of intermediate racks
Install intermediate racks in the same way as installing the main racks at a distance between them of up to 2 steps.
ADVICE! If you can attach the last post to the wall, be sure to use it. Drill a hole through the drywall into the wall using a long drill bit. Fill the blown and cleaned holes with a chemical anchor. Insert a mesh sleeve into the wall and fill it 2/3 with a chemical anchor. Screw in the threaded rod until it stops. Wait for the pin to set and screw in the bracket.
Step No. 3 – Assembling and installing the handrail
Cut the handrail to the required length. Take a velvet file and remove burrs from the outside and inside. Check the verticality of the cut using a square. Remove grinder marks using sanding paste.
Attach the handrail to the hinges and mark the drilling spots. Clamp the part tightly. Mark the drilling area. Start drilling holes using cobalt drill bits. Remove burrs with a grinder. Mount the handrail on the hinges.
ADVICE! It is better to drill a Ø5 mm hole in 2 steps, and a Ø7 mm hole in three steps, gradually increasing the diameter of the drill.
Step No. 4 – Installation of crossbars
Cut the required number of crossbars. Remove any burrs. Apply markings to the racks for the locations for mounting the crossbars. Drill holes strictly perpendicular to the axis of the rack and screw the crossbar holders. Insert the tube into the standard hole in the crossbar holder and secure it with a hexagon. Finally, do not forget to install caps on the ends of the crossbars.
Step No. 5 - Closing the handrails and crossbars
Locate the top vertical location where the two handrails intersect. Subtract the size of the rotating elements (hinge and bend) from these points and mark the required points. Cut the required size from the design points. Glue the hinge or bend using Moment glue. Upon completion of work, it is necessary to rub the railings with a rag.
Alternatively, you can buy ready-made stainless steel railings. They can be easily and quickly assembled and, if necessary, dismantled.
Installation of stainless steel railings. Video instruction.
The PerilaGlavSnab company is a conscientious contractor and professionally engages in the installation and installation of fences. We work mainly with corporate clients and construction companies, as well as private clients with an average income.
PerilaGlavSnab provides services not only for the installation of stair railings, but also for their design and manufacture.
Why is it worth ordering installation of stainless steel railings from us?
- Quality of materials. You can be confident in the quality of the materials needed to install fencing. The production of all components: both pipes and parts, undergoes multi-stage quality control, which is carried out by a quality engineer at all stages of production. With our help, you will install the most shiny and stainless railings at your facility!
- Quality of work. The installation of fences is carried out by regular installation teams and only using professional drilling and welding equipment using the most modern technologies. We install railings in the shortest possible time: up to 50 p/m per shift without loss of quality. Other companies will learn from your site, but we already know how and will do it!
- Insurance. We install fencing in any buildings and structures. We have permission to carry out work that affects the safety of capital construction, SRO No. 0712-769-001. You can feel calm and comfortable when working with our company.
- Come to us and let's get to know each other. We invite you to the PerilaGlavSnab office. You will be able to see and touch finished samples, learn about possible methods of installing fences, and be convinced of the quality of components. Our business is regular and specialized, not temporary and seasonal.
Basic fencing elements
- Vertical stands made of stainless pipe
- Post end for handrail installation
- Decorative bottom of the stand
- Handrail made of stainless steel pipe or wood
- Handrail end: cap or flange
- Filling between the posts: crossbar (pipe) or glass
How are railings and stair railings installed?
- Before installing the railings, specialists make markings for the racks of the stair railings.
- Diamond non-impact drilling of the floor is carried out in places where ready-made fencing posts (balusters) are installed. In this case, the fences are mounted on the finished tiles. The use of non-impact diamond drilling allows you to minimize the likelihood of tiles splitting, provided that the tiles themselves are laid with high quality. Practice shows that the use of this technology guarantees the safety of 99% of tiles.
- Balusters can also be attached to the end of a stair step (depending on the width and design of the flight of stairs). In this case, special flanges are used to install the racks or the racks are attached directly to the flight using two anchors.
- The racks are installed into the prepared holes using a two-component special solution, which will harden over the next 2-3 days and reach full strength 30 days after installation. That is why it is highly not recommended to literally loosen the fences immediately after installation - you can break the tightness of the composition that has not yet hardened.
- Handrails are fitted onto the installed racks to align the balusters in height. If necessary, some of them are trimmed.
- Then the installation of one or more handrails, depending on the design, crossbars or glass with glass holders is carried out. After completing this stage, the staircase with railings is completely ready for use.
Installing railings on stairs is a labor-intensive process that requires special skills and knowledge. Entrust the installation of fencing to professionals from the PerilaGlavSnab company. You will be confident in the quality of the finished structure and in the reliability of the contractor, who will fulfill all his promises.
The cost of our work
The estimated cost of manufacturing turnkey fencing varies depending on the design:
You can view prices for the entire list of services