Laying laminate flooring on an old wooden base constantly raises many questions. Some argue that it is undesirable to do this, others do not see any problems. How to understand this issue?
If the choice in favor of panel parquet has already been made, then it will be useful to know some of the nuances and rules for placing laminate flooring on a wooden floor.
Laminate on a wooden floor: installation features
Laminate is an affordable alternative to expensive parquet. This coating is used in residential and commercial premises. Laminate flooring is quite easy to install, but at the same time it is demanding on the quality of the subfloor.
Owners of old houses and apartments in which the floor is made of wood are often faced with the question: “Is it possible to lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor?” Experts assure that this technology is quite acceptable if the basic requirement is met - high-quality preparation of the wooden base.
To understand the features of laying panels, it is necessary to understand the specifics of the wooden base and determine the possible reasons for the violation of the integrity of the laminate.
- Wood is not a stable enough material. It is characterized by drying out, spoilage, etc. These processes lead to the formation of gaps between the boards. If laminate panels are laid on top of a loose wooden floor, the load on the parquet locks will increase significantly. The lock joint is the weak point of the floor covering.
- Wooden floors lose their characteristics over time. Therefore, it is very important, before laying the laminate, to inspect the floor and identify the weaknesses of the floor itself and the underground structures (support beams, joists). If any problems are identified, repair work must be carried out.
You will have to avoid laying laminate flooring in unheated rooms and in rooms with high humidity - bathrooms, kitchens. Under the influence of moisture, the planks can become deformed and lose their original appearance.
Laying laminate on a wooden floor: choosing a material
The durability of the floor covering largely depends on the correct choice of laminate. There is a certain classification of panels, the main selection parameter is the purpose of the room.
- Class 31 - for installation in houses, apartments and commercial premises with low traffic;
- Class 32 - suitable for finishing rooms with medium traffic - kitchens, corridors;
- Class 33 - laminate is intended for public buildings with high traffic;
- Class 34 - scope of application - large shopping centers, airports, clinics, schools and other premises where many people constantly gather.
Its cost also depends on the type of laminate. Class 31 coating is the most affordable. Class 34 laminate is very durable, wear-resistant and can withstand significant mechanical loads. The only drawback is the high cost.
The pricing policy of flooring is also influenced by additional characteristics:
- thickness of the HDF board (laminate base) - the larger this size, the more expensive the coating;
- thickness of the protective layer;
- presence of embossing, chamfers, additional processing, etc.;
- country of origin - European manufacturers price their products more expensive than Chinese and domestic ones;
- brand - laminate of popular brands that have proven themselves in the construction market will cost more than panels from unknown companies.
Preparing a wooden floor for laminate
Diagnostics of old flooring
The subfloor must be carefully inspected before laying laminate flooring. It is recommended to check the serviceability of both the external covering and the internal frame. Usually there is no need to dismantle the floor - a visual inspection is sufficient.
A number of factors indicate the satisfactory condition of the floor and the possibility of laying laminate:
- The floorboards do not sag while walking. Minor changes in floor level under heavy pieces of furniture, for example, under a cabinet, are acceptable.
- The wooden covering has no depressions, protrusions or knots.
- Horizontal level of the floor - the maximum permissible difference in height of the base plane is 2 mm for every 2 meters.
- No gaps between floor boards. The presence of places affected by rot is unacceptable.
- The wooden floor does not creak when walking.
If the listed requirements are met, then you can proceed to the next stage - placing the substrate. Otherwise, the base will have to be repaired.
Important! To identify rotten floorboards or make sure the wood is in good condition, you need to get rid of the old layer of paint. The appearance of the coating should be almost the same color over the entire floor plane.
Repair of wooden base
Eliminating squeaks. It is necessary to walk along the floor and identify places where the base creaks strongly underfoot. If some of the floorboards sag, then the boards are additionally fixed to the joists with nails or self-tapping screws. In the event that the measures taken did not produce the desired result, more major repairs may be required - strengthening the logs themselves. Bricks or beams are installed under the inner body of the floor - they securely fix the wooden base, preventing it from loosening.
Important! If, after strengthening the subfloor, it is planned to level it with an electric planer or scrape, then nails must be used to secure the joists. Nail heads should be buried into the wood before scraping.
Floorboards may squeak due to friction against each other. To eliminate this phenomenon, sometimes it is enough to fill the gap with talc or graphite and fill the visible gaps with putty.
Damaged/rotten boards must be replaced. To identify them, tap the floor surface with a hammer. The sounds from tapping on healthy wood are louder, while on rotten wood they are dull.
Even if the boards are only partially rotten and at first glance look reliable and durable, they still need to be replaced, otherwise the rot will spread to the “healthy” elements of the floor.
It will be possible to prevent the appearance and spread of mold/fungus by treating the wood with an antiseptic composition and providing the base of the floor with good waterproofing.
Important! If there are depressions (small grooves) on the floorboards, then the surface must be treated with a bioprotective compound. The presence of grooves indicates that the flooring is infested with woodworms.
Floor subsidence. The damaged area is dismantled - several floorboards are removed. Several support wedges are placed under the logs. If the vast majority of wooden joists are in unsatisfactory condition, then the floor will have to be dismantled and new frame parts installed.
Leveling the floor for laying laminate
Let's look at three ways to level a wooden floor:
- surface scraping - the method is optimal if the unevenness is not significant;
- laying sheet materials;
- arrangement of wet screed.
To scrape the floor you will need the following tools:
- sandpaper;
- rubber spatula;
- scraping machine;
- hand plane;
- building level.
Before treating the floor, you need to deepen the nails. After passing through the scraping machine, check the evenness of the coating with a level. If chips and cracks are found on the floor, they must be repaired using wood putty. When the solution is completely dry, the floor must be sanded again.
Floor scraping is a very dusty and noisy process. Upon completion, shavings and dust must be removed with a vacuum cleaner before laying the laminate.
You can qualitatively prepare the base for the laminate using chipboard, OSB, GVLV, plywood and other sheet materials. For these purposes, sheets of plywood 12-15 mm thick, 50*50 cm or 75-75 cm in size are well suited. It is advisable to use moisture-resistant material.
Some nuances associated with the use of plywood:
- The coating is laid out in a staggered manner, the offset step being half a sheet. Thanks to this technology, the load on the floor covering is distributed evenly.
- The plywood is “set” with glue and secured to the wooden base with self-tapping screws. The glue is applied with a notched trowel over the entire area of the sheet, the screws are distributed along the edges of the plywood.
- There must be technological gaps (10 mm) between the plywood slabs, as well as between the wall and the plywood covering. This distance is necessary for the thermal expansion of plywood.
The laid plywood sheets should be processed with a sanding machine and, upon completion, covered with drying oil.
Another way to level a wooden floor is with a wet screed. A smooth concrete surface is an ideal option for installing laminate flooring. To implement it, you will need to strengthen the structure of the beams and joists. This is necessary so that the base can easily withstand the weight of the concrete solution.
The process is quite labor-intensive, but the result will allow you to use the laminate coating for a long time without carrying out repair work. This is due to the practicality and immobility of the concrete layer.
Choosing a laminate underlay for an old wooden floor
Before laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor, it is necessary to cover the base with an underlay. This layer performs a number of important tasks:
- eliminates minor floor unevenness;
- increases heat and sound insulation;
- serves as additional protection against moisture;
- prevents contact of the subfloor with laminate slabs, preventing friction and rapid wear of the floor covering.
The construction market offers three main types of underlay for panel parquet.
Polyethylene foam backing- the most popular option, as it has an optimal price-quality ratio. The material contains a layer of aluminum foil or metallized film. Main characteristics: thermal insulation, moisture resistance and biostability. Disadvantages: sagging and exposure to UV rays.
When choosing a polyethylene foam substrate, you need to pay attention to the density of the material - the higher it is, the better and more durable it is. A 2 mm thick substrate is suitable for “apartment” laminate. For laminated panels with a thickness of 9 mm or more, it is necessary to select polyethylene with a thickness of at least 3 mm.
Good performance characteristics are shown by two-layer polystyrene backing. The protective material consists of aluminum foil and a layer of polystyrene. The substrate is not affected by fungi, mold, is not afraid of moisture and is relatively inexpensive. Disadvantages of the material: polystyrene is pressed under heavy load and does not roll out well when laid.
Advice. Extruded polystyrene has minimal moisture absorption rates. Laying such a substrate under the laminate allows you to do without a moisture-proof layer. When placing polystyrene along the walls, leave a ventilation gap of about 10 mm.
Cork backing made from pressed oak bark chips. Such material can be completely natural or combined with bitumen or rubber.
The main advantages of the substrate include:
- rigidity of the material - the substrate is not pressed under loads;
- safety of use;
- good heat and sound insulation qualities;
- better than others, the coating masks uneven subfloors;
- biostable;
- unlimited service life.
The main disadvantage of cork material is the fear of moisture. Therefore, such a substrate is not suitable for installing heated floors or for furnishing kitchens, bathrooms and rooms with high humidity levels.
Advice. The high quality cork backing is not translucent. For laying laminate on a wooden floor, a “cork” 2 mm thick is suitable.
Laying laminate on a wooden floor: installation technologies
Laminate flooring can be installed on a wooden floor in several ways:
- Click system;
- Lock system;
- glued laminate.
The Click connection is the most common way to install laminate flooring. The panels are easy to install - fastening the tongue into the groove at an angle of 30-40°. The laminate panel is lowered onto the adjacent lamella and fixed in the lock. The seam is almost invisible. Installation work should begin from the corner opposite the door.
Lock fastening is rarely used, since such a laminate needs a flat base. Lock is installed by hammering the groove of one lamella into another with a hammer. Due to this fixation, it will be difficult to disassemble the coating for repairs.
The most expensive method is glue. This method is reminiscent of parquet laying in the use of tenon grooves and screed. Glue is applied to the ends of the panels, after which the planks are securely fixed to each other. Adhesive fastening is used where the floor is subject to high loads - public spaces with high traffic. For domestic use, this method is rarely used due to the high labor intensity of the process.
Laying laminate flooring differs not only in the method of fastening, but also in the layout options for panel parquet:
- Classic masonry is the most common and economical. Waste from such an installation is about 5%. The laminate spreads from the window in the direction of the light. Panel trims 30-40 cm long are used at the end of the row.
- Diagonal laying is identical to the classic arrangement, but the panels are laid at an angle of 45°. This type of masonry looks very beautiful and visually expands the room. The disadvantage of the diagonal method is the increase in waste of finishing material up to 15%.
- Brickwork - each subsequent row of panels is shifted by half relative to the previous one. The brick method ensures maximum strength of the coating. The disadvantage of the layout is the high overconsumption of laminate (15-20%).
- Herringbone masonry - arrangement of lamellas at an angle of 90° according to the principle of parquet. For this method it is necessary to use strips with special locks.
How to lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor: step-by-step instructions
The first step is to decide on the method of laying the laminate and calculate the required material. The procedure for calculating the amount of laminate when arranging lamellas using the traditional method:
- Calculate the total area of the room - multiply the width of the room by its length.
- Increase the resulting value by 10%. This gap will compensate for the consumption of panels when cutting.
Laminate laying sequence:
If there are heating/water supply pipes in the room, you will have to bypass them:
- Measure the distance of the wall to the pipe and mark the lamella where the cut will be.
- Measure the diameter of the pipe.
- Cut a circle in the laminate with a diameter 15 mm larger than the pipe.
- Cut the panel crosswise, passing through the center of the cut circle.
- Lay the laminate pieces on the floor and connect them together. It is advisable to “plant” the laminate fragments with glue.
- Secure special plugs around the pipe.
Maintenance and care
In order for the laminate to please you with its beautiful appearance for a long time, you will need to follow some rules for the maintenance and care of the floor covering:
- avoid getting large amounts of water at the joints of the panels;
- place soft fabric or use felt pads under the legs of sofas, armchairs, massive tables and cabinets;
- clean the laminate immediately after contamination, using special products;
- It is not advisable to sweep panel parquet with a broom - it is recommended to use a vacuum cleaner or mop for dry cleaning.
Laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor: video
The floor boards are quite level, are at approximately the same height, the difference in height of the boards does not exceed 2 mm/m2, the total slope to one of the walls or to one of the corners does not exceed 0.5 cm, there are almost no gaps between the boards, all boards are firmly fixed and not creaking. I call this option fantastic because I have never seen anything like it in my life, but I had to tinker with installing oak skirting boards on block parquet floors with height differences of up to 2 cm/m2. Nevertheless, I admit the theoretical possibility of such an option, and if this option is yours, then I sincerely congratulate you. On such a flat base you can safely lay laminate of any class and parquet board of any thickness; the new coating will last quite a long time. Even laminate manufacturers allow small holes in the base with a diameter of several centimeters and a depth of up to 5 mm, or general floor unevenness with a height difference of no more than 2 mm/m2. You can buy the thinnest and cheapest underlay for laminate or parquet - this is the main bonus of smooth floors.
2. Perfect
The floor boards are not completely flat (the surface of the boards in cross section is curved or concave with a wave), while the height of the waves or the depth of the holes does not exceed 3 mm, the total height difference does not exceed 5 mm/m2, the general slope towards one of the walls or to one of corners do not exceed 2 cm, gaps between boards do not exceed 5 mm, all boards are firmly fixed and do not creak. On such a base you can safely lay laminate 32, 33 classes with a thicker base (from 8 to 12 mm) or parquet boards with a thickness of 15 mm or more. To prevent new floors from squeaking, it is advisable to lay the boards of the new coating perpendicular to the old wooden boards:
In the figure, the substrate is not shown. Substrate It’s also better to take a thicker one. Otherwise, all recommendations are the same as for conventional installation of laminate or parquet boards.
3. Real
The floor boards are not level (the surface of the boards in cross section is curved or concave with a wave), while the height of the waves or the depth of the holes does not exceed 5 mm, the total height difference does not exceed 10 mm/m2, the general slope towards one of the walls or one of the corners does not exceed 2 cm, the gaps between the boards do not exceed 5 mm, in some places the old paint has fallen off, resulting in the formation of holes up to 3-5 mm deep. Such a floor base already needs leveling, however, if you are not afraid of possible creaking and sagging of the floor, then you can lay a 10-12 mm thick laminate on such a base, although, of course, a thinner one is possible, but the thinner the base of the laminate, the less the laminate will last. It is still better to pre-level the base under the parquet board. To reduce the likelihood of squeaking and breaking locks at the joints of boards, it is better to lay the boards of the new covering perpendicular to the old wooden boards. Substrate It’s better to take polystyrene foam (such as tuplex). Otherwise, all recommendations are the same as for conventional laminate installation.
4. Bad
the floor boards are not level (the surface of the boards in cross section is curved or concave with a wave), the height of the waves or the depth of the holes is more than 5 mm, the total height difference is more than 10 mm/m2, the total slope to one of the walls or to one of the corners is more than 2 cm, The gaps between the boards are more than 5 mm, in some places the old paint has peeled off, resulting in the formation of holes up to 3-5 mm deep, some boards squeak when walked. Such a floor cannot be leveled with any underlays. You will have to first strengthen the creaking boards and first level the floor with sheet materials or level in place by placing several layers of substrate, trimmings of linoleum, laminate or parquet boards in especially large and deep holes. Or you can ignore all this wisdom and not level anything special at all, it all depends on the situation, for example, several years ago I had to lay 7 mm thick laminate in one office on old wooden floors with holes up to 2 cm per meter. In this case, the thinnest and cheapest polyethylene foam substrate was used. The floors, of course, squeak and sag noticeably when walking, but office employees do not complain about this; they are more annoyed by the low salary. Moreover, one of my friends (not me) did the same thing in their apartment and they don’t complain either, and when asked why the floors squeak, they explain: “It’s laminate!”
5. Really bad
The floor is not level, some of the boards are rotten and broken. In this case, even leveling with sheet materials will not help; you will have to first go through the floors, and then think about laying a new coating.
Experts note that the best base for laying laminate flooring is a concrete floor. However, it is not available in all homes. And in wooden houses it is generally impossible to find a concrete foundation (the only exception may be the first floor, when the concrete floor was poured onto the ground).
Owners of houses with wooden floors should not be disappointed, because laminate flooring can be laid on such a base without any difficulties. Of course, a wooden floor requires taking into account some secrets. Most of them concern diagnostics and foundation preparation.
First of all, you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the tree. It has the ability to lose its performance properties over time. Mainly it loses its strength. Therefore, after decades, the boards begin to sag, creak and even break. Moisture and insects cause such consequences. Therefore, a wooden base does not have the same stability as . But the fact that the shelf life of laminated boards is equal to or less (depending on the class and manufacturer) than the service life of wood allows you to safely lay laminate flooring on a wooden floor, following the advice from special videos.
Diagnostics and preparation of wood floors Considering the above, gender diagnosis is a must, especially if it was created many years ago.
Condition of the old floor The steps to evaluate any wooden floor over which laminated boards will be installed are the same. They consist of checking the condition of the boards, joists and beams. It is enough to inspect the first ones to identify cracks and holes created by the wormhole, and it is also worth standing on top or knocking to determine the integrity of the board (if the sound is dull, then it is rotten or has become a home for insects). To estimate the lag, you need to perform additional steps. They are especially in demand in cases where the floor is old. In the case where the installation of the floor was done recently and correctly, it is enough to evaluate the floorboards.
Replacing old boards To evaluate the frame, several floorboards need to be removed. Experts often recommend removing everything. This should only be done when all the boards have become bad. In most cases, you can remove boards (preferably bad ones) in certain increments. Its size can be 0.5-1 meter. It is desirable that the torn floorboard be wide. This way you can get enough space to inspect those parts of the joists that are under other boards. You can assess the condition of the frame using a mirror and a flashlight or by touch.
If the frame is in order, then rotten, unusable floorboards can be replaced. Boards with surface damage are torn off, turned over and nailed.
The loose material is strengthened. If a joist or beam is loose, they also need to be secured. When there is a concrete base underneath, a hole is drilled in the beam and base. Next, using an anchor, fix the loose part. Cracks or holes in durable boards are filled with putty.
Looping Next they proceed to. If there are problems with the frame, you need to disassemble the entire structure and replace unsuitable parts according to the instructions from special videos.
Not only the strength of the wooden floor is important, but also its evenness. On two square meters there should not be differences exceeding two millimeters. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to sagging of the laminate and destruction of its locks. Therefore, laying laminate flooring on an uneven floor is unacceptable. The presence of differences is detected using a level.
There are several ways to eliminate the problem with differences.
- Looping.
- Backing for planks.
- Using plywood or chipboard.
It is recommended to scrape the floor when the difference per square meter is less than 6 mm. Sanding is carried out using a grinding machine. Before this process, the head of each nail must be sunk to the depth of the largest drop. This way you can avoid metal contact with the tool. To cut protruding parts correctly, the treated area is divided into several sections. They will also learn additional secrets using special videos.
After leveling is completed, all dust is collected using a vacuum cleaner.
It is necessary to lay wooden planks under the boards if there are differences greater than 6 millimeters. Of course, to do this the floorboard needs to be torn off. After leveling, scraping can be done.
Installation of fanners When laying laminate flooring on an uneven floor is not possible, plywood or chipboard is also used. With their help, a new, smooth coating is created. Its installation involves the use of plywood with a thickness greater than 15 millimeters.
Before laying plywood, differences in the floor are eliminated by placing wedges under the joists. After this, it is necessary to treat the flooring with a fungicide or drying oil. This is to prevent the development of fungi and mold.
When laying plywood, planks of wood are used if necessary. They should be laid where there are differences. Sheets or squares of material must be placed so that the joints of the four parts do not form a cross. If necessary, the sheets are cut with a wood circular saw. The last stage of floor preparation is to fix the plywood. The process is simple and is often demonstrated in videos.
Thanks to this preparation, floor unevenness is eliminated.
Laying the substrate
Nuances of laying the substrate The substrate must be laid because it is able to compensate for minimal unevenness of the base and eliminate the movement of heat and sound. Waterproofing materials are not placed under or on top of it, since moisture accumulates under them, which leads to rotting of the floor.
Place the following under the laminate on a wooden floor:
- polyethylene foam backing;
- a backing made of natural cork (the best option);
- a backing made of bitumen fabric interspersed with cork grains;
- polyurethane foam backing with increased density.
Laying the substrate The thickness of any of these materials should match the thickness of the laminate. Manufacturers recommend using 3mm backing for 8mm dies.
The material must be placed end-to-end to create one continuous surface. The joint must be glued with tape.
After this step, you can install the laminate.
Laying laminate
Video
This video will tell you in detail how
Sources of photographs.
Laminate is a common floor covering. It is cheaper than parquet, but also looks attractive. More resistant to wear and various damages than natural wood. Laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor is a feasible task that you can do yourself. In order for the material to be laid correctly, the technology must be followed. You should start editing only after studying a sufficient amount of material on the topic.
Surface requirements for installation
Laminate flooring can be laid on a wooden floor only if the conditions that must be met by the old plank flooring are met. Do-it-yourself installation of laminate flooring without complicated preparation can be done if the following base characteristics are provided:
- integrity;
- height difference is no more than 2 mm per meter of surface;
- strength;
- lack of moisture and damage by various microorganisms (mold, mildew, etc.);
- absence of too wide cracks and holes (no more than 5 cm).
If these conditions are not met, it must be leveled before laying the laminate on a wooden floor.
Determining differences and eliminating them
You can correctly identify the magnitude of deviations before laying the coating from the horizontal with your own hands by using the following devices and instruments:
- laser level;
- hydraulic (water) level;
- bubble level;
- rule.
It's easiest to use the last two tools. High accuracy is not required here; it is only important to determine the scale of the problem and choose the right way to eliminate it.
Wooden flooring can be laid after leveling using the following methods:
- a substrate made of elastic materials is suitable only for minor problems, if you need to lay the coating on a surface with differences of several millimeters; thickness is taken from 2 to 5 mm);
- leveling mixtures and cement screeds are also used for simple cases;
- scraping the floor allows you to cut off protruding areas, while it is important to ensure that the plank flooring does not become too thin and begins to sag;
- Installing plywood will eliminate almost all irregularities and prevent such troubles as floor creaking and sagging.
The plywood laying technology suggests two scenarios:
- If the height difference is less than 1 cm, you can lay sheets fastened with glue and screws. For greater efficiency, a substrate is placed under the material. You can arrange the parts in this way quite quickly. First, clean, degrease and prime the base. After this, an adhesive composition is applied in a layer of up to 2-3 cm and the sheets are secured. After the glue has dried, you can start screwing. For them, before laying the material, holes are prepared at a distance of 2 cm from the edge of the sheet and 15-20 cm from each other.
- The second technology is suitable for differences of more than 1 cm. In this case, the basis for the plywood are logs with a cross-section of 15 by 40 mm, which are fixed with your own hands to the boardwalk with self-tapping screws. As in the previous case, the surface is cleaned, the joist boards are laid out and secured, after which the plywood sheets are screwed onto the screws.
It is important that with any method, before starting work, the sheets are cut. To do this, you need to lay them on the floor, cut out the parts of the required sizes and number them to indicate the order in which the plywood is laid. Installation is best done using moisture-resistant material of the second or third grade. The backing under the sheets performs soundproofing and shock-absorbing functions. It can be made from elastic materials such as isolon and polyethylene foam.
The minimum permissible sheet thickness is 10 mm. It is important to take into account the traffic flow of the room and the load on the floor from furniture and equipment.
It is best if the backing for the plywood laminate is made with your own hands and is 14-22 mm thick. If you lay thinner material, it may sag or crack.
Flooring installation
After the leveling substrate has been completed and the surface has been prepared, you can proceed to the next stage of work. Laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor is done with your own hands in the following order:
- If plywood or other rigid base is used as a base, a laminate underlay will be required. It is needed to avoid the coating hitting the plywood or screed. Unlike leveling, a large thickness is not needed here. The layer is taken from 1 to 3 mm. The joints of the material are taped with construction adhesive tape. You can additionally attach it at the edges.
- The laminate is brought into the room and allowed to adapt to temperature and humidity conditions. To do this, it is recommended to wait 2 days. Installation begins with determining the direction of installation (parallel to the light, perpendicular, diagonal).
- Measure the distance between the walls and calculate the number of boards. If the last piece is less than one-third wide, it is recommended to start laying the first row of elements by sawing them in half.
- Lay the laminate, taking into account the method in which the coating is attached.
Procedure for laying laminate flooring Laying parts can be done in three ways:
- Clik lock;
- lock;
- adhesive connection.
The board is installed at an angle of 45 degrees to the previous one, after which the lock is latched. The system is dismountable, which means that if necessary, you can easily replace or repair the underlying wooden floor. The parts are wedged between the walls using thin slats; this is necessary to provide a seam that compensates for the expansion of the laminate under load or changes in temperature. First, they assemble a row together, and then attach it to the previous one. Installation continues to the opposite wall of the room.
Laying is done in a running start. Measure the length of the board and the width of the room, after which the number of boards in one row is calculated. If you get an uneven number of elements (about half remain), in order to ensure a run-up, it is rational to start the next row with the half that remains from the previous one. This will minimize the amount of material consumed for coating. If a whole number of boards are laid in width, then the first row begins and ends with a half, and the second is made from whole parts. This way you can perform the dressing without waste.
Fastening is done by inserting the tenon into the groove. Installations, unlike the previous method, are not performed at an angle. You need to bring the element to the already laid one and lightly tap on its opposite edge.
They most often tap the block with a rubber hammer so as not to damage the groove of the element.
Adhesive laminate
Most often used for wet areas. Instructions for installing the exit with the previous lock. The difference is that the joint is coated with an adhesive solution. After laying the laminate, you need to allow time for the glue to dry. During this period, it is best to glue the boards together on top with tape. After the installation is completed, remove the wedges that were responsible for the gap between the wall and the floor covering and install the baseboards. The tape is removed after all work has been completed and the adhesive has dried.
Most often on sale you can find laminate with a Lock type lock. To guarantee the quality of installation, it is important to correctly fasten the elements to each other and ensure that all requirements for the base are met, especially evenness. If the technology is followed, we can talk about the durability of the floor and its attractive appearance.
The modern building materials market is rich in a variety of types of flooring: ceramic tiles, linoleum, carpet, cork flooring, parquet and others. Currently, more and more often, buyers prefer laminate, since this material is durable, easy to use, has an affordable price and beautiful appearance. This article describes the secrets of properly installing laminate flooring on a wooden floor. Questions that concern many readers are also answered. Is it right to install laminate flooring over an existing uneven wood floor? How is a wooden floor prepared for laminate? How to lay laminate flooring with your own hands?
So, first things first. You bought laminate flooring. Now you need to install it, spending minimal resources of time and effort, and also ensure the high quality of the work done so that the repair is preserved for many years.
Step 1. Assess the condition of the existing pavement
It's no secret that dismantling an old wooden floor is a labor-intensive and dusty process. Often consumers want to avoid dismantling work, but have doubts about the correct installation of laminate flooring on the existing flooring.
To assess the feasibility of laying laminate flooring on a base made of wood, it is necessary to carefully check the entire floor area for the absence of fungus and mold, sagging and creaking of floorboards, and large deformation changes in the surface.
Requirements for a wooden base
- Dryness. Old material should not have signs of rotting or fungal formations. This factor is very important, since the process of damage and decay of the tree will continue even after laying the lamellas. After some time, the laminate will also become susceptible to mold and mildew;
- Hardness. The base must remain strong so that new structures do not undergo deformation and retain their original appearance;
- Evenness. The height difference of the existing coating is not allowed to be more than 2 mm per 2 m of length. An uneven old floor will cause creaks of the lamellas and deformation of the laminate joints.
A more detailed description of the requirements for a wooden base can be found by watching the video:
Advice. If the existing flooring in your apartment does not meet these standards, you can bring the wooden floor into proper shape by locally replacing sections of the base. A plywood flooring will help level the surface.
Step 2. Preparing the wood flooring
Important! When partially replacing a wooden floor, it is necessary to use only dry and high-quality material. Otherwise, the base structure may deform during use and drying of the wood, which will lead to the destruction of the laminate coating.
Eliminating creaking floorboards
A common cause of unpleasant sound is poor fixation of the boards to the joists. The old fasteners have become loose over time and need to be replaced with a new one. In this case, it is not necessary to remove the previous nails; you can make holes nearby. In this case, it is better to use self-tapping screws that are 2–3 cm less than the thickness of the floor. It is necessary to screw each board to the joists, recess the caps so that they do not stick out. A visual guide is given in this video:
Leveling an existing wooden floor
The first step is to identify differences in height using a building level. It is better to use this tool with a length of 1.5–2 m in order to maximally cover the entire surface area and make more accurate measurements.
If you have an uneven floor, then don't despair. Level the convex areas of the coating, preferably cutting them off with a grinder or electric planer. If you lay down sheets of plywood, you can easily eliminate differences in height and make the base of the floor more durable and level.
Step 3: Laying plywood on an uneven wood floor
Installing plywood is an effective way to eliminate defects in wood floors.
Advantages:
- Strength, resistance to deformation, durable laminate flooring;
- High thermal insulation. The material retains 30% more heat;
- Soundproofing;
- Moisture resistance;
- Ease of use. You can lay this material yourself, without involving helpers;
- The large dimensions of the product allow you to quickly level the surface of large and small rooms;
- Low cost.
When choosing plywood, it is necessary to take into account that the thickness of the sheet must correspond to the floor covering or be greater. Therefore, for laying under laminate it is better to use plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 10 mm.
There are several brands of plywood sheets. For the construction of industrial buildings, this material is used, grades FB and FOF; for work in residential premises, grades FSF and FC are used. At the same time, thanks to special adhesive compositions, FSF plywood sheets have an increased level of moisture resistance. However, such products are not recommended for use inside apartments and houses, since they can cause harm to human health due to the toxins contained in phenol-formaldehyde glue. It is better to lay an environmentally friendly and cheaper brand of FC plywood.
It is necessary to lay plywood correctly in a checkerboard pattern. It is impossible to allow 4 angles to meet at one point. Preliminary cutting of the sheets and their numbering will help you avoid confusion when it comes time to lay down the covering. The technology for laying plywood requires the presence of gaps between the seams of 2–3 mm and a space around the perimeter of the walls of 10–12 mm. This will allow the wood to expand without deformation due to temperature changes.
To level an old wooden floor using plywood, you need to fasten the screws at a distance of no further than 20 cm from each other along the perimeter of the sheet, while retreating 2 cm from the edge.
Details of cutting sheets, the diagram of fastening the sheets and the secrets of checking the quality of the work performed can be found by watching the video:
Advice. You can additionally glue the uneven floor with sheets of plywood. This will avoid unwanted loosening of the boards when walking, thereby increasing the durability of the laminate flooring.
Once you have leveled and prepared the wood flooring, you need to consider laying an underlay underneath the laminate.
Step 4. Selecting a substrate for the laminate
The underlay is a special rolled material that helps prevent the subfloor and laminate from coming into contact. By compensating and distributing the load, the substrate softens the pressure of gravity, thereby ensuring the strength of the entire coating structure. Thanks to this rolled product, the locking connections of the lamellas are not deformed. This material also performs the functions of noise absorption and vapor barrier; it can be used to level out minor deviations.
The substrate comes in the following types: polyethylene foam, polystyrene, cork.
What do you need to know to choose a laminate underlay? Requirements for this product. The following video will help you answer these questions:
Attention! A correctly selected substrate will increase the service life of the laminate and its performance properties.
Step 5. Laying the laminate on the prepared wooden floor base
The technology for laying laminate flooring is simple. You need to lay the underlay end-to-end on the prepared floor base, securing the edges of the strips of rolled material with tape or masking tape. It is better to start laying the slats from the window to the door, close to the wall. Having inserted a wedge that will ensure a temperature clearance of 10–12 mm from the walls, you can begin laying laminate boards. The last laminate plate in the row must be cut with a jigsaw, carefully measuring the distance remaining to the wall. It is important to lay the second row, moving the laminate board relative to the first row at a distance of 40 cm. This will give additional strength and integrity to the laminate flooring, and also improve the appearance of the floor.
Installation of laminate boards requires ease of clicking of locking joints. However, sometimes it is necessary to perform additional careful manipulations with a hammer to get rid of gaps and achieve a tight fit of the lamellas.