B. Raspberries grow strongly, but produce low yields
1. Variety selection must be carried out in accordance with your wishes about the quality of the berries and in accordance with the soil and climatic conditions of your raspberry growing areas. If you decide to grow red, yellow or black raspberries, then you need to choose varieties of these forms that are recommended for your area. Your southern varieties may freeze, and your varieties from the northern regions may grow and not form berries. We have already considered the requirements for varieties; here we will only note that gardeners often “inappropriately” plant varieties that are unsuitable for them, and here care measures will change almost nothing.
2. The most common mistake is abundance of growth
on planting raspberries. After planting and for 10 to 15 years of growing raspberries in one place, you must regularly destroy all the shoots without exception, and leave only the bushes you planted. A tough and uncompromising fight against raspberry shoots must be waged at the beginning of each season, when all the shoots in the ground are still green and pruned with a sharp shovel. Usually such shoots remain dried in place. The main thing is that with this removal of shoots we do not disturb the root system of the raspberry bush itself. If the shoots were not removed until the fall, but were dug up in the fall, then the root system of the bush is severely damaged and this is very bad for the plant as a whole.
3. One of the most common mistakes gardeners make is growing raspberries. without supports . High yields are produced only by raspberries whose shoots are tied to a wire on a trellis. You can tie raspberry shoots to other types of supports, but until now high raspberry yields have been obtained only on a trellis. We have already discussed in detail how and from what the trellis is installed in Chapter 3, but here we note that the absence of a trellis negates all our efforts in selecting varieties, fertilizers and watering, and there is simply nothing to replace the trellis on raspberries. Gardeners are known to produce good raspberries without a trellis, but judge for yourself that the best yields on a trellis rise to 24 tons per actual hectare (without recalculations from small plots), and without a trellis all known yields were much less than 10 t/ha.
4. When growing raspberries, the most productive are plantings with row spacing 1.8 m. For the raspberries themselves, this width is quite enough, but for a person and for his processing tools, row spacing is often 2.0 or 2.5 m, and with careless care, row spacing is 3.0 m. Negligent care means a wide ribbon of bushes and overgrowth, careless care - this is the absence of a trellis on the plantation. The wider the row spacing, the fewer fruit-bearing plants per hectare, the lower the yield. The raspberries are raging, growing strongly, but the harvest is very small only on the tops of the shoots and berries.
Plants are planted less frequently in a row; practice with “cultural” care has established that the best yield is obtained when planted in a row across 70 cm. The biological reasons for this are described in the corresponding section of our book, but we note here that a more productive planting has not yet been invented, and you yourself decide what is best for you.
5. Wrong actions of the gardener himself often lead to the fact that the plants develop strongly, but the harvest from them is small. At excess nitrogen fertilizers Raspberry shoots grow very tall, up to 3 - 3.5 m, and the harvest develops only on the tops of the shoots. The gardener himself draws the conclusion from this that the previous amount of nitrogen fertilizers for his specific plants must be reduced (sometimes by half), and after that his raspberries will not “rage” next year.
When manure or other fertilizers are applied to raspberries in the second half of summer, this causes a new wave of growth and by winter the plants arrive unprepared and can freeze severely even with slight frosts. Next year there will be almost no harvest, but the development of shoots will be very strong. This means applying manure and other fertilizers in the second half of summer You can’t, it’s to your own detriment.
Incorrect pruning, when in each bush only 3 to 5 strong shoots are left instead of 7, leads to a wave of new strong green growth and a low harvest for the next year. Each bush must have a sufficient number of last year's shoots for this year's harvest, usually this 7 escapes when planting bushes every 70 cm in a row. If few fruiting shoots are left, then the raspberry plant switches its energies to developing a large number of annual shoots, and there is almost no harvest.
Some gardeners plant raspberries more often, not every 70 cm in a row, but every 30 or 50 cm, but this does not improve the yield and quality of the berries. There are many gardeners who leave a wide ribbon of shoots, about 1 m wide. With this care, the number of shoots per hundred square meters increases sharply, the yield of berries per shoot drops sharply, and the overall yield of berries per hundred square meters is greatly reduced. All this is discussed in detail in our book, and here we mention it as a reason for possible failures.
All the deviations from normal care of raspberry bushes listed here significantly worsen the yield and quality of the berries, which become smaller, unfulfilled, watery and tasteless.
G. Raspberry cannot degenerate
Many gardeners have very bad raspberries that are on their
the plot itself became like this over a number of years, although at first the bushes were normal and the harvest was not bad. Now there is almost no harvest, the berries are bad and many plants have simply disappeared. In such cases they say that the raspberry has degenerated.
In 1970 - 1980 Many times I took seedlings from areas where the raspberries had degenerated and only pitiful remnants remained of good raspberries. I planted seedlings of such diseased raspberries under the conditional number at my institute in breeding plots, where there was the usual care, but all the seedlings received three feedings, as described in this book. At the same time, at the same dacha, together with the owner, we replanted the frail “tails” of diseased raspberries from degenerate raspberries and also carried out three feedings for them. Plants of “degenerate” raspberries under such conditions gradually came to their senses, produced ordinary shoots and leaves.
In all 27 cases, I received normal plants from degenerate raspberries, which in the third year produced good harvest original original variety. In this way, I restored the old raspberry varieties Usanka, Herbert, Spirina white, Early sweet, Vislukha, Phoenix and others that were lost in the institute’s collection. All these varieties began to again produce a bountiful harvest of berries typical for each variety. Exactly like that, at dachas and personal plots, where I took frail, outdated plants from degenerate raspberries, in exactly the same way here the raspberries came to their senses, mainly after two years of care and feeding, and they again became productive and had an outwardly healthy appearance.
We have already noted that no variety can degenerate into another raspberry, there is simply no biological basis for this, but any variety can become a very bad raspberry. This can always be corrected and to do this you just need to replant the remaining frail plants of degenerate raspberries on good soil and then give them increased care.
But we can always return the usual neglected state of raspberries to their original, very good state, and then the old variety again begins to delight us with its wonderful berries.
Here are the most common reasons why gardeners fail when growing raspberries. In general, obtaining high yields of high-quality berries from raspberries is not a big problem and does not require anything unusual. With normal, routine care, raspberries can annually fully provide the gardener and his family all summer with fresh berries and processed products for the rest of the year.
In response to these statements, the seller said that agricultural practices should be followed, and not complain about the varieties. The buyer just waved his hand, saying that this was a common excuse.
Let's try to figure out who is right and who is wrong. I have seen large-fruited raspberry varieties with a harvest not only at exhibitions, but also in nurseries and from experienced gardeners. I met the same varieties in “amateur” plots.
Let's look at my observations together and draw a conclusion: what raspberries like and how to please them.
First of all, it must be said that amateurs and professionals have completely different approaches to growing large-fruited varieties. Most gardeners believe that by replacing their regular raspberries with large-fruited ones, they will immediately receive a harvest of extra-large berries (without changing anything in agricultural technology).
Experienced gardeners and agronomists understand that all modern varieties are created and grown on a high agricultural background. Without it, good results cannot be achieved. Finding itself, to put it mildly, in “average” conditions, the variety begins to degrade and produce “average” berries, slightly larger than usual. Agronomists like to repeat one wise phrase: “Even the most good variety can be ruined by poor agricultural technology.”
Basic mistakes
growing raspberries
1. Lack of light. We honestly admit that we don’t have the best places for raspberries. Where does it most often grow? Along the fence, behind the house, barn or in the corner of the garden behind a large apple tree. Is there enough light there? As a rule, no. This is the first mistake.
Raspberries need a lot of light. Remember, in the forest the best raspberries grow in clearings. Therefore, plant it in a completely open area.
2. Planting raspberries after raspberries. It often happens that new varieties are planted in the same place where the old raspberries grew. The owner believes that he thoroughly cleared the area of previous plantings and removed all the roots. But this is a misconception! It is impossible to remove raspberries without a trace! It sprouts even from the smallest roots.
Sometimes old raspberries are not harvested at all (they regret it), but a new variety is planted nearby.
What happens? As new seedlings grow, they begin to produce offspring. At the same time, old raspberries also sprout. It is extremely difficult to distinguish these shoots. Moreover, some large-fruited varieties produce very little growth (especially at a young age). At the same time, old varieties are “creeping” in all directions. As a result, the gardener begins to propagate his old raspberries by layering. Naturally, he gets small berries from it, and then “blames” the new variety.
Let’s not forget that according to the rules of agricultural technology, crop rotation should be observed. They don’t plant an apple tree after an apple tree and choose another place for it. But it is customary to plant raspberries along the border of the garden, and, as you know, there is only one border. So new varieties end up in the same place.
Remember, you can’t plant raspberries over raspberries! Allocate for new seedlings
a separate area away from the old bushes.
3. Preparing the landing site. The soil in most garden plots is not fertile. Therefore, before landing you need to make organic fertilizers. Often this rule is ignored. In a hurry, they just dig up the ground and plant the purchased plants.
Raspberries love fertile soils. This is noticeable even in the forest. The largest berries ripen on bushes that grow in a small depression where more forest litter has accumulated, that is, where there is more humus.
According to the description, modern varieties produce a yield of 6-7 kg per bush (record - 10 kg). To achieve such results, experienced gardeners add 1 bucket of rotted manure and a liter jar of ash to each hole when planting. Everything is mixed with soil and raspberries are planted.
4. Quality of care. Compare how we cherish and care for Victoria (large-fruited strawberry). For her, the garden is the most honorable place. But for some reason we spare space for raspberries. But why is it worse? She is too tall and creates thickets. I don’t want to spoil the look of the site.
And don’t let them get to the bushes. If raspberries grow uncontrollably, they shade themselves and lack nutrition. This is a grave mistake! All this leads to the degeneration of the variety. On the contrary, well-kept raspberry plantings produce a bountiful harvest of large, sweet berries. This is a real pride and decoration of the garden!
Take care of your raspberries. Avoid overgrowth. In spring, tie the bushes to a trellis or stake. In summer, remove small shoots and plant cuttings. In the fall, finally thin out the bushes or cut them off completely (for remontant or “annual” varieties).
5. Watering. A very common mistake is lack of moisture. Many gardeners do not understand that in addition to precipitation, raspberries need additional watering. After all, in nature no one waters it. But on the other hand, in the forest the largest berries are produced by bushes that have grown in a small hollow, where moisture from rain lingers longer.
Sometimes the lack of watering is associated with a banal reason - there simply isn’t enough hose to the fence where the raspberries are planted. And even if they are long enough, they don’t stay near the raspberries for long: they only wet the ground with a hose, and the water does not penetrate to the depth of the roots.
Raspberries love moisture very much. Water it generously. The norm is a bucket of water for an adult bush. Watering frequency depends on the weather. The soil under raspberries should always be moist.
To prevent water from spreading when watering, it is recommended to plant raspberries in a trench. After planting, its depth should be 10-15 cm from the soil level. The width should be about a meter, then the moisture will be more evenly distributed in the root zone. It is advisable to reinforce the sides with boards so that over time the trench does not become level due to precipitation and watering.
6. Mulching. This agricultural technique is recommended for all crops. But few people use it for raspberries. What does it give? Retains moisture in the soil. Prevents the growth of weeds. Prevents a crust from forming on the soil and keeps it loose. Protects roots from snowless frosts. Prevents the proliferation of pests in the soil. All this improves the growth conditions of raspberries and increases their productivity.
For raspberries, not only good soil moisture is important, but also a sufficient amount of air for the roots. If you do not use mulching, you have to frequently loosen the soil. This leads to damage to the roots, since they are very superficial in raspberries.
The term “mulching” appeared relatively recently. But the technique itself is far from new. In the old days they said that raspberries love “all kinds of garbage.” Therefore, they carried any organic matter under it: in the fall - livestock bedding (straw manure), in the spring - small twigs from pruning, in the summer - mown grass and weeded weeds. By the way, it is the presence of small twigs along with other organic matter that makes the soil especially loose, with plenty of air.
Raspberries need to be mulched. This should be done at least twice a year: in the fall before the onset of cold weather and in the early spring before the growing season begins. In summer, it is advisable to add mulching materials as they dry out.
I did everything right!
At the exhibition, the offended buyer assured that he grew raspberries according to all the rules, but did not receive the promised super-berries. What's the matter?
In defense of the diligent gardener, the following can be said. The basis of new raspberry varieties is a special large-fruit gene. The external characteristics of a plant that retains this gene are long sepals. The disadvantage of this gene is its instability. That is, some of the varietal plants (a small percentage) produce ordinary fruits. During flowering, short sepals are visible on such shoots. This is not a disease, but a return of the plant to its natural state.
In this regard, the propagation of large-fruited varieties requires special care. Shoots with short sepals must be mercilessly disposed of. But in nurseries, in pursuit of profit (or out of ignorance), this requirement is not always observed. That is, among the seedlings of real large-fruited varieties there may also be degenerated plants. Therefore, it is best to buy raspberries from reliable, trusted nurseries. Or come to the nursery yourself and select seedlings on the spot.
How to determine the authenticity of a large-fruited seedling if at the time of sale (in spring or autumn) it does not bloom and does not have the same sepals?
Experienced gardeners convince us that raspberries can be planted throughout the summer. Firstly, most varietal seedlings are now sold in containers or bags. And secondly, in the summer, raspberry seedlings take root well if you dig them up with a large lump of earth. Just be sure to shorten the shoots (to 40-45 cm)! Fill the hole well with water and place a peg. After this, cover the roots with soil and water again. Mulch the soil. Wrap the plant in spunbond or a sheet to protect it from the sun. With such planting, the survival rate of plants is 100%.
Without proper care, large-fruited varieties still exhibit their properties and produce larger berries than usual. However, they never reach their maximum size. In the photo there is just such a case: in the center there is a berry of a regular variety and a large-fruited Patricia variety. If all requirements are met, Patricia's berries grow larger.
Large-fruited raspberry varieties Arbat, Generalissimo, Pride of Russia, Beauty of Russia, Abundant, Divine, Heavenly Delight, Unattainable, Ideal, Patricia, Tarusa, Simply Lovely, Maroseyka, etc.
For comparison. Good garden raspberries produce berries of 3.5-4 g. Large-fruited varieties - 14-18 g, and the most outstanding - up to 23 g. In modern remontant varieties, berries weigh up to 12 g.
Prepared material
You can find this article in the newspaper "Magic Bed" 2010 No. 10.
Number of impressions: 25948
In Russia, there are currently more than a dozen of the most popular loyalty programs that are not associated with specific brands. If we add to them programs tied to trademarks, then in total there will be about several hundred of them.
Pyaterochka, Perekrestok, Karusel and other supermarkets that are part of the retail monopoly X5 Retail Group have their own loyalty programs. Customer cards with bonuses are offered by household appliances stores, clothing stores, mobile operators, banks, gas stations of various brands and many others.
One of the most popular coalition loyalty programs in Russia was the Malina program, founded in 2006, which allowed one to accumulate bonus points and then spend them with partners or buy equipment in a special catalog for them. Malina collaborated with 25 major partners: the BP gas station chain, Beeline, Raiffeisenbank, Tinkoff Bank, the Rosinter Restaurants restaurant chain, the 36.6 pharmacy chain and a number of others.
How did it happen that this program, which even received the Loyalty Awards Russia-2016 “For the promotion of loyalty marketing in Russia” in 2016, went bankrupt and left millions of people without accumulated points?
"Raspberries" have bloomed
The enterprise itself was organized thoroughly. The owner of Malina is Loyalty Partners Vostok LLC, which is wholly owned by the offshore Cyprus company CSI Loyalty Partners Ltd. Loyalty Partners is owned by businessman Sergei Borodin, who picked up and developed the idea of Malina founder Michael Llewelyn, who at that time had more than 10 years of experience in developing, managing and promoting such programs around the world.
Photo: sirtravelalot/shutterstock.com
The service was actively growing: by 2018, about 6 million people became cardholders, as stated on the program’s website. In 2012, when Malina had not yet encountered its first problems, Loyalty Partners Vostok LLC reported revenue of 714 million rubles and a net profit of 4 million rubles.
Malina’s first problems began in 2014. At that time they did not yet affect the holders. The fact is that Rosneft acquired a partnership in the Malina loyalty program along with the purchase of TNK-BP, Malina’s largest partner. The brand's cards were still serviced at gas stations, but payments to the brand were suspended. Then Rosneft decided to abandon the Malina program, since it already had its own and was developing it, although Mr. Borodin assured then that the difficulties were of a technical nature and a new agreement would soon be concluded with Rosneft.
The example of Rosneft was followed by VimpelCom (Beeline brand), which in 2015 announced the termination of cooperation with Malina due to the development of its own loyalty program. The operator then also began an active search for partners for its program in the telecommunications industry.
In 2017, things went very poorly for Malina. Then, under the vacancy of Loyalty Partners Vostok LLC, one of Malina’s former employees wrote a comment:
The company is dying. Employees were transferred from white salaries to gray ones in an envelope. Everything was quiet - HR came, slipped a piece of paper for signature and that’s it. Half of the employees were transferred to the organization LLC GROUP OF COMPANIES MLN, which is developing a completely different project, Fuel Truck. The salary there is also gray.
Finally, in 2018, Tinkoff Bank also turned its back on Malina. He published a message on his website that Malina cards will be transferred to the Bravo loyalty program starting in July, and accumulated bonuses will be converted into a new format. The design of the cards did not change, they just started accruing bonuses from another loyalty program and they no longer had any connection with Malina and its catalogue.
Malina then published a message on its website about “temporary difficulties” that were planned to be resolved soon. Then the product catalog disappeared from the site, and soon the site itself stopped opening (now it just shows the program logo). At the end of September 2018, the company Loyalty Partners Vostok, which owns the brand, filed an application for bankruptcy with the Moscow Arbitration Court.
What and how much did people lose?
Malina's business had an interesting model. It was based on the intermediate stage between the seller and the buyer and was based on the benefits of intermediation. This is the model for all non-brand loyalty programs. From purchases from partners, Malina accrued a percentage for individuals, and in return received regular payments for stimulating sales.
A percentage of purchases was awarded in ephemeral points in the ratio of 1 point for every 20 rubles. For them, however, it was possible to purchase quite real things from the catalogue, but a number of users noted that, in fact, their price turned out to be inflated, and not the market price, since it was set by Malina itself.
Some cardholders of this loyalty program report 3-7 thousand points remaining in their account, others talk about tens and hundreds of thousands. If we count by the maximum volume, then the size of unspent bonuses can reach more than an impressive amount of 120 billion rubles. However, it is important to note here that we are not talking about money taken from the pockets of holders, but about their loss of the opportunity to take advantage of incentives for their purchasing activity.
The holders also state that in the agreement for participation in the program, Malina prudently did not stipulate its obligation to provide goods and services in the amount of rubles, which is converted from points at the above rate. The agreement provided that the loyalty program only creates conditions and provides the opportunity for holders to take advantage of these bonuses, but is not at all obliged to convert all of them into rubles.
Returns and exchanges are not possible
The lack of obligations to sell points is the main problem of such related loyalty programs, noted General Director of Information and Analytical Agency Infoline Ivan Fedyakov. He expressed doubt that people would be able to somehow get their accumulated points back.
This is very unlikely, the prospects are extremely low. The “Malina” program itself is a kind of quasi-product that unites the participants of this program with obligations. These members are not directly responsible for receiving any services or goods for the accumulated points. They are likely to avoid fulfilling obligations. If the program ceases to exist, then all its participants relieve themselves of their obligations to maintain the card,
Fedyakov noted.
According to him, one of the reasons for the collapse of Malina was the general decline in customer interest in loyalty programs, as well as the introduction of their own cards by its partners. At the same time, people are more accustomed to trusting discounts and promotions rather than cards, since discounts for most consumers are the simplest and most understandable loyalty tool.
“There were even studies that showed that more than 3/4 of the loyalty cards issued by retailers are not used by consumers. This applied both to mono-systems, when the loyalty card belonged to one retailer, and to cross-systems like Malina. Even when the seller offers to get a card for free, consumers refuse,” Fedyakov said.
Therefore, the expert noted, retailers already want to complete the “attraction of unheard-of generosity” with discounts and promotions that have reached a very serious depth and breadth of assortment. This has also slowed down the sellers themselves, who are already exceeding the peak on discounts and promotions and cannot develop further. This means that there will be fewer and fewer discounts in stores, and sellers will be more and more active in luring customers into all kinds of loyalty programs.
According to the director of Infoline, “Malina” became a good example for the market and served as a kind of warning for people. But despite this, the loyalty market in Russia will only grow and become more sophisticated.
Many people who did not have one began to launch their own loyalty programs. Now these are, for example, Magnit and Auchan. That is, those retailers who, in principle, followed a program of discounts and promotions, rather than loyalty cards. Sooner or later, cross-loyalty systems like Malina, which collapsed due to its crude and outdated model, will return to the market.
Fedyakov said.
The expert also added that in the future, Russian residents should expect a surge in cross-border loyalty programs that will approach this business in a new way. In particular, they will stimulate demand for goods of certain brands, attracting buyers with profitable points.
Thus, problems with the instability of loyalty programs will not go away. The only question will be to what extent the buyers themselves will be able to turn this to their advantage without increasing their purchasing appetites and becoming dependent on bonuses and points. “Malina” was essentially selling “air”, not goods, but a simple opportunity to get something supposedly for free for previously made purchases. The scheme of such a loyalty program can even be considered a scam, because in the end, people, for their part, conscientiously fulfilled their part of the deal - bought goods, accumulated points. However, “Malina” turned out to be not so sweet when it turned out that she would no longer be able to fulfill her part of the agreement, and her partners simply would not want to.
In spring, shorten last year's stems by a third of their entire growth. Then trim down to the ground all the dead branches that already produced a harvest last year. In summer, destroy excess young shoots at the base of the bush and root suckers that appear between the bushes if they are not needed for propagation. Make supports or garters for flexible raspberry branches, otherwise they will bend to the ground due to the weight of the berries and leaves. Allow the young shoots of the current year to grow upward freely.
And in the fall, after collecting the fruits, tie them in place of the removed ones. Raspberries require a lot of fertilizer, as their strong growth constantly depletes the soil. Therefore, every autumn after digging, “cover” the soil with humus 10 cm high and leave it on the surface until next summer. Sometimes you can also fertilize in the spring, using phosphorus and potassium fertilizers; they should be planted to a depth of 10–12 cm. Use nitrogen-containing fertilizers - slurry, bird droppings - only in the spring. In summer, they cause increased growth of shoots, which then do not ripen and do not survive wintering well.
When filling berries, also use phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. Water the raspberry plot generously: when ovaries form, every 7–10 days. At the end of August, stop watering. For the winter, all shoots need to be bent and pinned as close to the ground as possible. Try to bend it as low as possible so that the snow covers the entire plant. And remember: raspberries can be grown in one place for no more than 10 years, because after that the yields drop sharply.
Features of large-fruited raspberry varieties Large-fruited varieties are called varieties that produce berries weighing 5-12 g, while the largest single berries can reach 15-18 g. Gardeners with good care For large-fruited raspberries, you get 5-6 kg of berries from one bush. At the same time, the taste and aroma of berries of large-fruited varieties are superior to many traditional raspberry varieties. Like ordinary raspberries, the berries of the first harvest and the berries on stronger fruit branches are the largest. Over the years, as the bushes mature, the large fruit and yield of raspberries increases. How else do these varieties differ? Large-fruited raspberries have one feature - its fruit branches (laterals) are capable of branching, and some varieties have 3-5 orders of branching. More than 30 large berries ripen on this lateral. This is another reason for the high yield of large-fruited varieties (the first is the ability to produce large berries). Among the large-fruited varieties there are early and late ones, with red or yellow berries, sweet and sour-sweet taste, resistant to diseases, and quite winter-hardy.
"Hussar"- one of the best varieties in the “Golden Series of Kazakov Raspberries” (Professor I.V. Kazakov bred in Bryansk high-yielding raspberry varieties “Beglyanka”, “Indian Summer”, “Volnitsa”, “Peresvet”, “Sputnitsa”, etc.). The bush produces little growth and bears fruit abundantly. Raspberries of medium early ripening. The berries are large (up to 10 g), juicy, dark ruby color, slightly elongated. This variety is frost-resistant and disease-resistant. Raspberry "Gussar" will be a worthy decoration of your garden.
"Arbat"– raspberries selected by Professor V.V. Kichins. The variety is distinguished by completely smooth, thornless stems. The berries are large and very large (4-12 g), elongated and conical, beautiful “chiseled” shape, dark red, shiny. Removed from the stalk without breaking; dense, withstands transportation well.
"Golden Giant"– improved variety of Yellow Giant. The berries are large, juicy, amber in color. In winter, it is advisable to bend the stems so that they overwinter under the snow.
"Tarusa"- raspberry tree. This group of powerful varieties by Professor V.V. Kichina makes it possible to grow raspberries without trellises and stakes, without pruning. The berries of this variety are elongated, large, weighing up to 16 g. The taste of the berries is sweet, with a pleasant “raspberry” aroma, with juicy melting pulp and a few small seeds. The berries are suitable for fresh consumption and for all types of home processing. This plant is called a raspberry tree for its powerfully developed shoots and the bush as a whole. The raspberry tree "Tarusa" is one of the most productive varieties raspberries
"Giant"– a new variety of thornless raspberries with especially large berries. The weight of the berry reaches 25 g. The bush produces very little growth. Productivity 8-12 kg per bush. This unique variety, desired by gardeners, is the real pride of Russia!
"Indian summer"– a popular variety of remontant raspberries. The first harvest occurs in late June–early July and bears fruit until frost.
"Apricot"– remontant raspberry with beautiful orange berries that have an apricot flavor. This variety is more abundant than Indian Summer. I believe that “Abriksovaya” can replace yellow-fruited raspberries, since this variety is more frost-resistant and unpretentious.
"R-34"- an unsurpassed variety of remontant large-fruited raspberries produced by Professor V.V. Kichina. In this variety, the second fruiting is shifted to an earlier date, which allows you to collect more berries before frost.
"Ruby Giant"– improved Patricia variety (Professor V.V. Kichina). Early term maturation. The berries are very large, sweet, conical in shape.
"Raspberries from Sweden"– forms large bushes up to 3 m high. The berries are large, round, dense, sweet. There are 18-20 berries in clusters.
Growing productive raspberries
Raspberries have simple agricultural technology.
To cultivate high-yielding raspberries, you must follow two rules:
1. In May, cut off excess shoots.
2. Do double pruning in the summer.
The first - in June, when the raspberry bushes reach a height of 1.5 m (their tops need to be cut off at a height of 1-1.2 meters).
The second - in July (pruning the formed side branches).
With this pruning, the strength of the raspberry roots will be directed to the formation of fruit buds, and not to the growth of shoots and leaves.
It is a mistake to cut off the tops of long raspberry stems in the spring after wintering.
Double pruning is not suitable for standard raspberries and yellow ones, which need to be bent down for the winter.
A good agricultural practice for raspberries is to sprinkle a mixture of humus and peat around the bushes (15 cm layer). In this case, moisture is better retained in the soil throughout the summer, and nutrients are supplied to the roots. Before mulching, all weeds, of course, must be removed.
Raspberries are very responsive to the application of manure.
Buying quality seedlings
I would like to warn gardeners against possible deception when purchasing seedlings.
There are enterprising businessmen who dig up abandoned garden plots shoot fruit trees and shrubs (raspberries, currants, honeysuckle, cherries, plums, etc.) and take them to the market, inventing the names of the varieties.
To avoid being deceived, buy seedlings only from people who have a sign (token) containing the full details of the seller (full name, address, passport number). In this case, the person is responsible for the plants sold. If there is no such representation from the owner of the planting material - no matter what they tell you or promise - do not believe it!
You take a big risk if you buy seedlings not from a nursery from specialists, but from sellers with high road" Planting material is sold everywhere on roadsides. Very often, seedlings are sold by the roadside by people who are far from agriculture and who only seek to make an easy profit.
The Vyksa fruit and berry nursery offers seedlings of the latest high-yielding varieties of raspberries, raspberry trees and other plants that will delight you with high yields and tasty fruits that will decorate your garden.
Large selection of frost-resistant varieties: apple trees, pears, currants, grapes, cherries, honeysuckle, blackberries, gooseberries.
Decorative and medicinal plants, vegetable and flower seeds.
Our planting material is grown organically, without the use of chemicals. The seedlings have an excellent root system, ensuring 100% survival rate. The plants are strong, 2-3 years old, and easily tolerate transportation and transplantation.
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Remontant raspberry
Unlike ordinary raspberries with a two-year development cycle in the above-ground part, remontant raspberries are an “annual” plant. Within one season, it manages to grow and produce a harvest on the shoots of the current year. Fruit-bearing shoots are cut down to soil level in late autumn. In this case, the maximum berry harvest is achieved, most of which occurs in August-September. IN middle lane In Russia, when choosing varieties, you need to pay attention to the start date of fruiting: the earlier, the more harvest the gardener can get. It’s very disappointing when bunches of green berries disappear under the snow.
To speed up fruiting, it is better to plant remontant raspberries in high beds with a large amount of organic matter. To speed up the growth of shoots, you can clear the snow near the bushes in the spring and cover the shoots non-woven material or film.
Advantages of remontant raspberries
- You can grow it without the use of chemicals, since it is much less damaged by diseases and pests (by the time it blooms late, there are almost no pests).
- The harvest is environmentally friendly, labor and financial costs are lower.
- The period for collecting fresh berries is extended by 2–2.5 months. In some years, until the end of October, even after frosts down to –5°C, when there are practically no berries with a dessert taste in the garden, ovaries form and full-fledged berries develop from them. The slightly less sweet taste is compensated by the lack of wormholes.
- The problem of winter hardiness and winter drying of shoots becomes irrelevant - we cut off the upper part of the bush, and the root system of raspberries is extremely winter-hardy.
- Significantly higher yield compared to ordinary raspberries. In this regard, large-fruited remontant raspberries are more demanding in terms of nutrition, moisture, and lighting.
- In October, before frost, you can pick branches with green berries and put them in water - they will gradually ripen.
