The average person spends almost a third of his life sleeping, and his activity while awake, and therefore his success in business and personal life, depends on adequate rest during this time. The quality of a night's rest largely depends on the comfort of your body position during sleep, which a comfortable bed should provide.
Nowadays, in the assortment of furniture stores you can choose almost any, even quite unexpected, version of this necessary piece of furniture, but for various reasons it is not always possible to purchase a model that suits all parameters. Therefore, the question often arises of how to make a bed with your own hands at home, and save a decent amount of money.
Variety of bed models
Before choosing a bed model for manufacturing, it will probably be useful to familiarize yourself with some of them in order to assess the complexity of the design and soberly weigh your capabilities. Today, furniture designers and constructors have developed a huge number of options, and many of them can easily be implemented at home.
The main difficulty of the DIY process lies mainly in the preparation and processing of structural parts, since for these operations it is often necessary to have special tools. But, one way or another, in order to decide to create this piece of furniture, you should first of all consider some models of varying levels of complexity, made of different materials.
Bed with drawers
The bed, equipped with drawers, can be single, single or double. But it is especially in demand for installation in children's rooms, where there are usually a large number of toys and items for various educational activities. This design is convenient because you can create a place to store various things without cluttering the room with unnecessary furniture. Moreover, by pulling out such drawers, you can immediately see all the contents, rather than delving into the jungle of a massive deep closet, where it is sometimes difficult to find the right thing.
A bed with drawers is an excellent solution for a children's room By and large, the design of this bed is not much more complicated than a regular one, where free space is left under the sleeping place. The main thing is to draw up high-quality drawings, put the correct dimensions in them, carefully process all the parts intended for assembly, carefully assemble them and find easy-to-use fittings. In this case, the retractable elements should have easy movement, move out and retract freely, and for this you can select special side guide mechanisms or attach small wheels to the bottom of the drawer.
hanging bed
This original version of the sleeping place is not as difficult to manufacture as it might seem at first glance. The only requirement that must be met for the effective functioning of this design is that there is sufficient free space, since the bed is designed to sway in a certain amplitude range.
The sleeping place itself consists of a frame - a frame and slats, but you also need to take into account the fact that all parts must be made of high-quality material and securely fastened together. For this design, you need to choose light wood so that it does not create too high a load on the supports. A mattress, which sometimes has excessive unnecessary weight, should have the same quality.
Metal bed
A bed made of a metal corner, rod, strip and fittings can only be completed by an experienced welder, but this option will last a long time without repair, and will not bother you with squeaking. A metal bed fits especially well with a certain interior style, for example, retro, empire and even modern.
Such a “work of art” is only accessible to an experienced craftsman. The stable and heavy design nevertheless looks light, almost weightless, so it will fit perfectly into any environment and become a decorative element. Many people have a negative association with metal because of rust, which can leave unsightly stains on the mattress and bedding. You should not be afraid of this - today, with the development of technology, varnishes and paints have been developed that will protect not only bedding accessories from rusty stains, but also the metal itself from the occurrence of this unpleasant manifestation of corrosion. On such a bed, the mattress will always be ventilated and will not sag, since the frame has sufficient rigidity and solidity.
Transformable bed-wardrobe
A bed that turns into a wardrobe is indispensable in cramped conditions of small apartments, and this design can also be reproduced independently by purchasing special lifting and supporting mechanisms. In this option, the sleeping area should be easy to clean and imitate a closet or cabinet.
They can be different in size, imitate a massive wardrobe or turn into a compact narrow chest of drawers with a tabletop on top. The latter option can be used both for a children’s room and as an additional, reserve bed in case guests arrive. In addition, this structure is sometimes installed in a loggia or on an insulated balcony, because in the summer it is so pleasant to relax in the fresh air.
A bedside table is always a ready backup bed The most difficult thing in making such a model is to choose the right lifting mechanism, and, of course, to carefully process all the details of the structure so that it can be easily installed and removed, without distortions or jams.
Podium bed
Another bed option that will help save space in small areas of modern apartments is a podium bed. The meaning of this design is that the sleeping place will not take up a single extra centimeter in the room, since the bed is removed during the daytime under the podium, which can be used as a useful area, for example, by equipping it as a workplace.
Making such a model is also not so difficult, but the bed and podium will require a lot of high-quality materials, and the work itself will take quite a lot of time. However, the result will exceed all expectations, since the result will be not only a comfortable sleeping place, but also an original interior design.
In addition to the mentioned beds, popular, frequently chosen models include those with a lifting mechanism, an orthopedic frame, bunk beds, with a frame made of wooden slats, a sofa bed and others. Some of them will be discussed further in more detail, with illustrated instructions for their manufacture attached.
Find out by studying the two available options in a special article on our portal.
Making a bed with your own hands
Double wooden bed
Wooden double bed "classic" type This ordinary bed of standard sizes is made of natural wood, which you can process yourself, buy ready-made, or take to a carpentry shop for precise cutting and processing. In order to make such a double wooden bed you will need the following materials:
- Pine timber for the box and legs, section 50×50 mm, length 2200 mm – 15 pieces.
- Planed pine boards 2000 mm long, 100 mm wide, 20 mm thick – 22 pcs.
- Wood glue or PVA for furniture.
- Self-tapping screws for 65 and 40 mm.
- Metal corners with a shelf width of 50 mm.
The frame being manufactured is designed for a mattress measuring 2000x1600 mm, so the internal space should have dimensions of 2100x1700 mm, and when measured along the outer edge - 2200x1800 mm.
The work is carried out in the following sequence:
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | Since the box for the bed frame must have a height of 150 or 200 mm, with a wall width of 50 mm, the timber must be glued together (3 or 4 pieces each) To do this, the sides are coated with wood glue, the bars are placed on top of each other, compressed in clamps and left until completely dry. |
 | Next, the resulting glued blanks must be adjusted to size. So, to assemble the box, you will need two side panels (tsars) 2200 mm long, one 2100 mm long for the middle longitudinal jumper, and two end drawers 1610 mm long. |
 | In order to get a reliable locking connection at the corners, 50 mm are measured at the edges of the sides, on the upper and lower bars of the workpieces - these fragments must be carefully sawed off and removed without affecting the middle beam of the panel. On blanks for the end sides, 50 mm is deposited on the middle block and then carefully removed. Then, the protruding middle parts of the side bars are coated with glue and installed in the resulting gap between the two bars of the end panels of the box. After this, they need to be compressed in clamps and left until completely dry. |
 | You can do it differently by using a timber bandage connection. In this case, the bars are glued into a box already trimmed. To do this, the first row of timber is laid out on a flat floor, which should form a rectangle. The length of its sides should be 2100 mm, the end sides - 1500 mm. The end parts of the beams of the side panels are coated with glue, and the bars of the end sides of the box are pressed against them, and then fixed with self-tapping screws. The corners of the rectangle are set using a construction square, and checked by measuring the diagonals - they must have the same length. Next, the middle row is glued to the bottom row; the length of the side bars in it is 2200 mm, and the end side element is 1700 mm. Its ends are coated with glue, and it is placed between two bars of the sides, and then fixed. Then, the middle row, in addition to gluing, is secured to the bottom row using self-tapping screws. In the last, top row, the timber has the same dimensions and is laid in the same way as the first bottom row. The beam is glued, screwed with self-tapping screws and left to dry. This assembly method is more complex, since if the master does not have the appropriate experience, the angles may go awry. |
 | The next step is to secure the middle element of the structure - a lintel glued together from two bars 2000 mm long. Before fixing the jumper, the bed frame is turned over, the end sides are marked from the inside in order to accurately find their middle. The jumper at the bottom should coincide with the level of the box. Then, on the bottom row of the frame beam, in the designated places, thrust bars 150 mm long are screwed. They will serve as support for the central longitudinal partition. To connect with these supporting elements, 50 mm from the edge is selected from the lower beam of the lintel. Fastening is done using glue and self-tapping screws. As a support, you can also use a metal corner with a 50 mm shelf - appropriate holes are drilled in it for fastening to the walls of the box and to the crossbar. The finished lintel will become an additional basis for the boards laid on top of the bed frame. |
 | The bed model in question has 4 legs in the corners - it is also convenient to immediately fasten them with screws or bolts now, while the bed frame is upside down. The legs will be sections of the same timber 50x50 mm. The legs are fixed to the structure first with glue, and then with self-tapping screws or through bolts, and it is additionally recommended to strengthen them on both sides with metal corners. The height to which the bed will be raised above the floor can be chosen arbitrarily, but usually it is from 200 to 300 mm. The shorter the legs, the more stable the bed will be, but on the other hand, the low height complicates cleaning. |
 | In addition, to prevent the center from sagging, it is necessary to attach an additional one or two supports of the same height to the middle jumper - then the structure will have higher rigidity and reliability. The middle support legs can be secured in different ways. This illustration shows an option when the legs are fixed with bolts on both sides of the lintel. |
 | After the glue in the support joints has dried, the bed frame is turned over again to its normal position and installed on the already mounted “standard” legs. |
 | Next, on the long side panels of the box, lines are marked along which a beam or board approximately 30÷40 mm wide and 25÷30 mm thick will be attached. This will be a support for the subsequent installation of ceiling boards. The supporting shelves should be placed so that they are flush with the center lintel. Usually they focus on the gluing line of the top beam of the sides of the box - if everything was done correctly, then compliance with the general level will be ensured. |
 | The next step is to lay boards on top of the prepared support shelves. They should not rest against the sides of the box, otherwise unpleasant squeaks may appear during use of the bed. Therefore, a gap of 4–5 mm on each side must be maintained between the walls and boards. |
 | The flooring does not need to be made continuous - the boards are laid out at a distance of 20÷40 mm from each other. |
 | The boards are fixed in three places - along the edges, to the supporting shelves, and in the center - to the longitudinal lintel. At each attachment point, two self-tapping screws 40 mm long are screwed in. To avoid the appearance of cracks on the edges of the boards or on the shelves on which they rest, it is recommended to pre-drill holes for self-tapping screws with a drill of small diameter - 3 mm. |
 | After completing the installation of the boards, you need to inspect all surfaces of the structure. If necessary, remove any leaks of glue, large burrs, etc. |
 | Move on to finishing the assembled bed. First you need to bring all surfaces to a perfectly smooth state. For such processing of wood, it is better, of course, to use a belt, eccentric or vibration type sander, onto which sandpaper with the required grit is sequentially installed, ranging from 80-100 to 280-400. |
 | In the absence of a special tool, you can use an electric drill by installing a grinding attachment on it. If wood processing was carried out using power tools, then after using them you need to carefully inspect the product, since it is possible that in some places you will have to complete the work manually. After completing the sanding work, the finished bed must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and small sawdust, that is, prepared for coating. |
 | If the product is immediately varnished, the parts must first be treated with a primer. If the wood will be darkened with stain, then use it first. The coating process is carried out using a brush or spray. |
 | Further, if you plan to emphasize the textured pattern of the wood, then after drying, the stain is sanded over the surface again with sandpaper. |
 | It is advisable to apply the coating not only to the outside of the bed, but also to the back, which is invisible to the eye. The fact is that stain is, to a certain extent, an antiseptic and can protect wood from “traditional” pests - microflora or insects. |
 | The next step is to coat the product with varnish. For this, it is best to use water-based compounds, especially when the work is carried out in an apartment. Such varnishes do not have a toxic odor, are environmentally friendly and dry quickly enough, and after drying they give a pleasant matte shine. To achieve the desired appearance of the bed, you will have to apply several thin layers of varnish. Moreover, subsequent layers are applied only after the previous one has completely dried. |
 | When finished, the bed, finished with stain and varnish, should look something like this. |
 | In between coatings of the bed with varnish, while the next layers dry, you can make a full-fledged or impromptu backrest. In this case, the backrest panel is made of boards and mounted in the form of a decorative lattice. It will require three boards 100÷120 mm wide, 1600 mm long, and 11÷12 pieces 400÷460 mm high. The grate is also treated with sandpaper and coated with the same compounds as the bed itself. |
 | In this model, the headboard is not attached to the bed - it is mounted on the wall at the level of the mattress. The last step is to lay the mattress itself - and the bed is ready for use. |
Double bed with installed lifting mechanism
Another option for a double bed is a model made using chipboard. In this design, unlike the previous one, there are no legs, which makes it more stable. Another advantage of this bed is the ability to make useful use of the closed space under the bed, since the model is equipped with a lifting mechanism that allows you to easily lift the wooden frame without removing the mattress.
The disadvantages of this model include its massiveness, which makes it impossible to install it in a small room. In addition, chipboard cannot be called an absolutely environmentally friendly material, since it is made using binders, which can often release toxic fumes into the environment, which is not at all beneficial for humans.
It is necessary to take into account that when choosing furniture made from chipboard, it is necessary to create conditions for effective ventilation of the room in which it will be located. And for the manufacture of bed parts, you should purchase chipboard panels with a formaldehyde emission class - E1.
So, to make a bed with a standard mattress size of 1800×2000×200 mm, you need to prepare the following materials:
- Chipboard sheet 16 mm thick and 3500x1750 mm in size.
- Two sheets of fiberboard 5 mm thick, standard size 2745 × 1220 mm.
- Beam with a section of 50×50 mm, 18 m.
- Board 10÷15 mm thick, 60 mm wide - 20 m or 10 mm plywood, size 1525×1525 mm.
- Lifting mechanism with gas shock absorbers.
- Self-tapping screws, bolts.
- Metal corners.
- Covering fabric, 1500 mm wide, 5000 mm long.
- Sintepon 1600 mm wide, 5000 mm long.
- Foam rubber 2 sheets, 10 mm thick and 3000x1000 mm in size.
- Staples for stapler 8÷10 mm.
Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to the manufacture of structural elements.
A. The following are made from 16 mm thick chipboard:
— headboard – 1 piece, size 1080 × 2130 mm, it can be rounded or have right angles;
— side panel of the box – 2 pcs., 2330× 350 mm;
— end panel of the box – 1 pc., 2130 × 350 mm;
— internal partition – 1 piece, 2010×280 mm.
B. Parts made of 50×50 mm timber, fixed in a box:
— longitudinal elements fixed to the side panels – 2 pcs., 2010 mm long;
— transverse part fixed to the end panel – 1 pc., length 1810 mm.
— racks 100 mm high – 4 pcs.
IN. Parts made of 50×50 mm timber for the manufacture of a lifting frame:
- longitudinal elements of the internal sheathing - 5 pcs., 2005 mm long;
- transverse parts of the internal sheathing - 2 pieces, 1805 mm long.
G. Plank or sawn plywood (10 mm) slats measuring 60×15×1805 mm – 11 pcs.
D. The lining of the bottom of the box is 2 sheets of fiberboard, 1650x2330 mm each.
Having made all the elements necessary for assembling the structure, you can begin sheathing and assembling parts.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | If the headboard has a rounded shape, then the template for it is first made on paper, and then transferred to chipboard and cut out with an electric jigsaw. It is very important to take into account that the headboard should be pressed against the wall - this will make the structure more rigid. Usually at the junction of the floor and the wall there is a plinth of a certain width. Therefore, in the upper part, in the center of the headboard, a special support element made of timber or a piece of chipboard is fixed, having a thickness equal to the width of the plinth. With its help, it will ensure that the back rests against the wall. You can do it differently by removing a section of the baseboard from the place where the bed will be installed. |
 | Next, the parts of the box and headboard are tried on at the installation site. Then, the exposed panels of the chipboard box are fastened together at the corners using pieces of timber or metal corners. The headboard panel is not attached yet, as it needs to be covered with fabric first. The timber parts are fitted onto the fixed panels. |
 | The lamellas are tried on across the timber laid on the chipboard and their location is marked. |
 | The next step is to cover the head of the bed with foam rubber - this operation is performed using a stapler and staples. The foam is leveled and first secured to the front side of the panel. |
 | Then, its edges are wrapped and stapled on the back side. |
 | The foam rubber is covered with the fabric chosen for this purpose. It is recommended to purchase dense material that can repel dust. |
 | The covering work is carried out starting from the bottom of the panel, and then the fabric is carefully stretched and secured in the same way as foam rubber on the back side of the headboard. |
 | Now the covered backrest can be installed in its permanent place. |
 | Next, the lifting frame frame is made. Its parts are assembled and secured using metal corners. All five bars are distributed at the same distance from each other, starting from the middle of the structure. The middle beam should rest on a chipboard partition fixed in the bed frame. Having assembled the frame, it is temporarily set aside. |
 | Next, the walls of the box are sheathed both inside and outside. First, a padding polyester is also attached to them using a stapler, and then the same fabric that was previously used to cover the head of the bed. |
 | The next step is to mark and attach the elements of the lifting mechanism to the frame. |
 | Further? The frame is fitted onto the box and the location for mounting the timber on the side panels of the box is marked, onto which the second side of the lifting mechanism elements will be attached. |
 | Then, the beam is secured, and the stationary part of the lifting mechanism is screwed to it, and the structure is tested. The timber is fixed to the chipboard using self-tapping screws 50 mm long. Their caps must be recessed into the wood by 0.5÷1 mm. |
 | After this, lamellas are attached to the frame, across the bars, using self-tapping screws. |
 | When folded, the lifting mechanism looks like this. It is located in the resulting niche between two bars. |
 | In the illustration presented, you can see a semicircular cutout made in the central partition. This space is necessary for the free raising of the frame grille. |
 | Next, the structure must be installed on the side panel for the convenience of further work. |
 | The next step is to prepare fiberboard sheets that will cover the bottom of the bed frame. This will allow you to create a full-fledged cabinet suitable for storing various things. |
 | Sheathing can be done using staples or self-tapping screws of small length and diameter, but with wide heads. |
 | After installing the bottom part, the bed is lowered and installed in place. |
 | In this photo, small wooden parts are clearly visible - racks attached to the side internal beam. Such elements are installed not only in the middle part of the side beam, but also in the corners of the box. They are mounted at the same height and are necessary for rigid support of the movable frame when it is folded. |
 | To make it easier to lift the frame together with the mattress laid on it, loops or unique handles sewn from fabric are attached to its front part. They are screwed with two to four screws with wide heads to the end beam of the frame. |
 | A bed with a mattress open looks like this. |
Single bed
This section presents the design of a single bed, which can be used for an adult or teenager, as it has quite suitable dimensions. As with any piece of furniture installed in a bedroom or children's room, you need to choose high-quality and environmentally friendly material for this product.
single bed
Dimensions in these drawings are in inches, 1 inch = 2.54 cm or 25.4 mm. Knowing this ratio, it will not be difficult to convert the presented sizes into units familiar to domestic craftsmen.
This table clearly shows the manufacturing process of this simple bed model:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | To make this bed model, you will need the following materials and parts, which are listed in accordance with the diagram shown in the illustration: - A – legs. To manufacture these parts, you will need a beam with a cross section of 2×2″ (50.8×50.8 mm). The height of the beam for the headboard is 33½″ (851 mm) - 2 pcs., for the footboard – 17¼″ (438 mm) - 2 pcs.; - B – the back and front walls of the bed frame, as well as the wall located at the foot, are made of boards with a section of 1×9¼″ (24.5×245 mm), the length of the side elements is 75½″ (1918 mm) - 2 pcs., footboard – 39″ (991 mm) -1 pc. - C – longitudinal beams for flooring, made of boards with a section of 2×1″ (50.8×25.4 mm) and a length of 75¾″ (1910 mm) - 2 pcs.; - D – covering boards 1×4″ (25.4×102 mm) and length – 39″ (990.6 mm) - 13 pcs.; - E – lower part of the headboard 1×6″ (25.4×152 mm) - 1 pc. and the upper part with a section of 1×9¼″ (25.4×235 mm) - 1 pc., the length of both parts is 39″ (990.6 mm). Subsequently, a figured back will be cut from the board prepared for the top element. |
 | The first step is to manufacture the structural parts and assemble them into separate sections from which the bed will be assembled. The most complex part in shape is the upper part of the back, which is not only decorated with a curved shape, but also must have a perfectly processed upper and lower edge. The indicated dimensions are applied to the prepared board, and the rounded upper part of the back is determined using an improvised compass. You can make a so-called pattern (pattern) on paper, and then transfer the shape to the board. Then, sawing is done using an electric jigsaw, the edges are processed with a router and polished using a grinder or manually. It is very important that the surfaces are brought to a perfectly smooth state, since they will not be covered with fabric or other material. In addition to this part, the bottom panel for the headboard is cut out. It is much easier to deal with, since the most difficult task will be to saw off the edges evenly and then process them well. |
 | Then, legs with a height of 851 mm are cut out of timber with a cross-section of 50.8 × 50.8 mm. They also need to be well processed and cleaned. After this, markings are made on the sides of the bars that will be turned inward to connect them to the crossbars. |
 | To ensure that the headboard assembly is neat and has strong connections, you can follow the presented diagram. To do this, 2–3 holes are drilled in the bars and end sides of the boards for each of the elements. Next, dowels 80 mm long and 8 mm in diameter are prepared. Then the dowels and abutting end parts of the parts are lubricated with glue. Next, the dowels are carefully driven through the beam into the transverse parts of the back of the headboard. If the process is carried out in this way, then the joints on the outside of the legs are covered with a wooden strip, which is fixed with glue, and the leg is compressed in clamps while it dries. |
 | Provided that the closing decorative slats are glued, landing grooves are left on the outside of the legs for the side panels of the bed (tsars). In this case, they are attached to the side of the legs, which is the most durable connection. If you do not plan to attach additional linings covering the dowel connections to the leg, then the holes in the bars are not drilled through, but only from the inside, deepening them by 25÷30 mm. Then, also using glue and dowels, the headboard parts are connected to each other. This assembly method is somewhat more complicated than the previous one, but with a careful approach and precise work it is quite doable. |
 | Next, the legs and the footboard panel are made. The height of the timber for them should be 438 mm, and the panel size should be 235 mm wide and 990.6 mm long. The footboard parts are connected in the same way as in the headboard section, that is, using dowels and glue. |
 | The next step is to connect the side panels (tsars) with the headboard and footboard sections. They can be secured in different ways. The most common option is metal corners. They are screwed to the drawers and legs with self-tapping screws. |
 | In addition to metal corners, there are special parts called bed ties or hooks to connect these parts. With their help, the side panels are hung on the legs of the headboard and footboard. If hooks are used for connection, the structure will be collapsible. |
 | The next step is to attach supporting shelves or elements made of timber or docks to the drawers. They are secured along the lower edge of the sidewall. |
 | Glue is applied to the beam, then the part is aligned on the frame and pressed against it with clamps. When the glue is completely dry, the parts are screwed on with self-tapping screws. |
 | The next step is to lay out the prepared boards onto the bars attached to the frames and level them. |
 | When fastening the lamella boards to the bars, the entire structure acquires the necessary rigidity. Each board is screwed with two self-tapping screws on both sides. Holes for self-tapping screws are marked by drilling (3 mm). |
The bed options presented above can be considered the most affordable for self-production. For the work to be effective, you need to be well prepared for it, equipping your home workshop with the necessary tools and high-quality materials. By fulfilling these conditions and carrying out all technological operations carefully and slowly, it is quite possible to obtain a high-quality piece of furniture that will last for many years.
Video: DIY bed making master class
Even the simplest bed model is sold at a price of no less than 7,500 rubles. For some it’s not money, but the main problem is different. Not every finished bed can be placed where you want - standard dimensions do not allow it. And if we are talking about a small garden house, a modest veranda or a gazebo, then the size of the product is the determining criterion, and it is unlikely that anyone will purchase a bed for such use in a furniture showroom, given its cost.
The feasibility of making wooden furniture with your own hands is in many cases more than obvious. And how to competently approach the solution of this issue, what to provide for - we will consider all the nuances of organizing the “home production” of a wooden bed with our own hands.
On many sites, it is recommended that when choosing bed parameters, you should focus on standard mattress sizes (2000 x 1500). The argument is that it should fit tightly in place. Whether this is really relevant, the author invites the reader to decide. One has only to note that the beauty of making it yourself is the ability to choose not only materials, but also the dimensions and shapes of any product.
The same goes for the mattress. If desired, it is easy to “design” it yourself. For example, from foam rubber sheets, covering which with fabric (a cover sewn to size) will not be difficult. As a last resort, the mattress can be ordered in a special workshop, according to an individual drawing. Therefore, it is hardly wise to “look back” at it.
So, let’s start with the preparatory steps for making a wooden bed.
Main - for the frame
High-quality wood blanks (boards, timber) are expensive. What can you save on? For the frame, you should take smooth samples with a minimum of knots. This will allow you to sand the wood more thoroughly (a sander will help) and decorate it with high quality, with anything you like. As a rule, homemade beds are coated with varnish, and through its layer all defects are clearly visible. But for legs and slats, you can purchase wood at a lower price. Considering that these elements are not so striking, second-rate products are enough.
The type of wood also matters. Since few people nowadays install homemade beds in living rooms (except from expensive wood, on special order), you should choose species that are less susceptible to rotting (). After all, such pieces of furniture made by hand are installed mainly in rooms (or outside), where temperature changes and dampness are common.
Among the affordable species, larch and pine can be distinguished. Spruce, even though it is a coniferous tree, should not be used. It has a soft structure, therefore, there is no need to talk about the strength of the bed. Its structure will quickly become loose, and it will have to be systematically repaired.
For finishing the bed
Homemade beds are rarely painted. Basically, the material is polished with high quality and. Few people use a primer when surface treating wood, although the advisability of its use is obvious. Firstly, penetrating into the structure, the soil strengthens its top layer. Secondly, the consumption of paint and varnish is reduced, since the impregnation has already filled all the microcavities. And considering the cost of high-quality varnish, which significantly exceeds the price of primers, this is an important aspect.
Drawing up a drawing
You will have to answer two questions - how many people the bed is designed for, and what age they are. Recommended sizes:
- width: for one – 95±5, for two – 180±15. For the so-called “lorry”, 130±20 is enough;
- length: for a child – 150, for an adult – 200;
- frame height – within 40.
But it’s worth remembering that this is not a standard, but just a recommendation. The choice of parameters is made arbitrarily, based on the specifics of the bed installation.
Selection of lumber
The design of a wooden bed is simple, but it is hardly reasonable to use the same samples to make the same type, but several different structural parts.
Frame
For the side walls, take a board (2 pieces) 2,500 x 300. Thickness is in the range of 20 - 25. But for the front and back there are options. To reduce the cost of the product, you can use ready-made slabs. For example, OSV or chipboard, but only laminated. A protective coating will add strength to the material, and solve the problem with an attractive appearance.
Some craftsmen assemble the front and rear “shields” from the same board, then covering them with thin plywood. How much better this is, everyone will determine for themselves, but the fact that it will take much more time to make such a wooden bed is clear.
Legs
A block with a side of 40 is enough. The length depends on how much you want to raise the bed above the floor. Exactly the same wooden samples are suitable for use as supports for the frame. It is easy to calculate the total length of the workpiece, depending on the bed parameters indicated in the drawing.
Frame
The mattress will be placed on it. A thin, narrow board (the main thing is to correctly determine the interval between the elements) and a beam of small cross-section are quite suitable. Alternatively, thick plywood or chipboard. The frame design is so simple that choosing the optimal blanks is not difficult.
Necessary tool
Explaining point by point what exactly is needed to work with wood to a business person is a waste of time. You just need to remember about the level (construction). At each stage of assembling a wooden bed, you will have to control the strict symmetry of all its components. To determine “by eye” whether it is smooth means dooming yourself in advance to redoing the entire structure.
You will definitely need a carpenter's clamp. In the process of making a wooden bed, an adhesive composition is used. Each of them is characterized by its own time of complete hardening. Since the workpieces must be securely fixed during the drying period, a clamping device is indispensable. How to make it yourself, what modifications exist for household use, .
The assembly itself, according to a well-drawn drawing and with the necessary tools, is done quite quickly.
- Any markings are small errors, which is quite natural if the wood is cut not by machine, but by hand. To achieve maximum identity of similar structural elements, it is necessary to manufacture one of them, the first one, with extreme precision. Using it as a standard, all others are made according to this template.
- When surface processing wood blanks, it is advisable to at least slightly round off the sharp edges. For more thorough leveling of the base, it is recommended to use a household sander. Working with this tool will give not only high results, but also great time savings. About varieties.
- Connecting structural parts only by glueing or using fasteners (screws, self-tapping screws) does not guarantee the durability of a wooden bed. The structure of the material is quite soft. During use, the bed will one way or another be subject to at least minor dynamic loads. Especially when it comes to the “children’s” version - kids love to jump on the mattress. The “shak” of the entire structure will appear quite quickly, which means that it will have to be repaired, and even with the replacement of individual parts.
A tongue-and-groove connection with gluing these places is a more correct solution. Typical parameters of eyes and protrusions: depth (length) – 45±5, width – 25±5. If it is necessary to strengthen the structure, it is advisable to use a metal corner. Lightweight, aluminum, “ten” is enough. These fastening parts are installed from the inside, and after the final assembly of the bed and laying the mattress are completely invisible.
Everything else is at the discretion of the master. For example, the front and back walls are made either the same or different in height. Legs - both square and round. If you “turn on” your imagination, then it’s not difficult to make a bed from wood that can be safely called “exclusive”. When the drawing is drawn up independently and the assembly is done by hand, there is no strict standard. And basic practical recommendations are given.
Good luck to you, home craftsmen!
Walking around furniture stores and showrooms, you can often be horrified by the price tags presented there. The most annoying thing is that a simple bed made of the cheapest material (not wood at all, but ordinary chipboard or MDF with an ordinary mattress board made of rough chipboard, i.e., even without slats) has an exorbitant price for such a product. Having seen enough of this, we are starting to look at other options: some are looking for used furniture on bulletin boards, others are taking something simpler and are content with a cheap analogue, and some are simply postponing the purchase of the product for an indefinite period.
But in this article we will take a different route. We will make a double bed with our own hands.
For understanding:
The bed described in this article is no worse than those presented in furniture stores and showrooms. It is not inferior either in materials or build quality.
The only difference is that you do not pay money to design, design, engineer and manufacture this 2-bed bed. You just do it all yourself.
The advantage of this approach is that the furniture salon and you will pay almost the same for the materials. And by assembling this double bed yourself, you will save at least half the cost of the design (i.e., exactly the same amount as the markup on the cost price for the design, design and assembly of this piece of furniture).
Photo of a double bed that we will make with our own hands:
This article presents a master class on the manufacture and assembly of a double bed from chipboard + MDF lining on the frames, overall dimensions 2032 * 1692 * 800 (length/width/height), size of the sleeping area for the mattress 1600 * 2000 mm, i.e. quite a standard bed for two people.
At the very bottom of the article you can download a file with assembly drawings of a double bed, as well as its configuration.
- Screwdriver
- Confirmation bat
- Awl, screwdriver
- Tape measure, ruler, pencil
- Hammer
By and large, you won’t need any other tool to assemble this bed, of course, unless you want to save some money and glue the edges onto the chipboard yourself.
But for this bed, we took all the parts immediately with edging, in the same place, at the furniture production, when ordering the cut. Therefore, if you glue the edge yourself, you will also need an old iron, sandpaper and a knife cutter. This process is described in more detail.
Detailing and equipment
So, what do we need in terms of details for such a double bed:
Chipboard laminated wenge 16 mm (if you want, you can choose your own color)
- Headboard – 1692*800 mm – 1 piece
- Footboard – 1692*400 mm – 1 piece
- Tsar (sidewall) - 2000*250 mm - 2 pcs.
Chipboard Rough 16 mm
These parts will be located inside our piece of furniture. They will not be visible, so you should not overpay for laminated chipboard (chipboard), but you can order these parts in rough chipboard:
- Supports (legs) for the mattress shield - 2000*234 mm - 2 pcs.
- Short support strips for drawers - 2000*50 mm - 2 pcs.
- Mattress shield - 1995*1595 mm - 1 piece
The mattress will not lie on slats, like expensive beds, but on a rough mattress pad. It is much cheaper than slats and, thanks to modern high-quality mattresses, you won’t even feel the difference in these details.
MDF overlays White Gloss 10 mm
- Headboard and footboard pads – 1532*240 mm – 2 pcs.
These white pads will be used to decorate our bed. We will fasten them using 3.5*25 mm screws from the chipboard side.
Necessary accessories and fasteners
In terms of fittings, to assemble a double bed with our own hands, we only need 12 double thrust bearings. Take the color of the chipboard, as well as not on nails, and those that are tightened with screws. You need three pieces for each support on which the bed will stand.
Required Fasteners
- Confirmat 6.4*50 – 50pcs
- Screw 3.5*30 - 50 pcs
- Screw 3.5*16 - 50 pcs
- Screw 3.5*25 - 50 pcs
- Metal corner 50*30*30*2 – 20 pcs
- Wenge confirmed plug (matching chipboard color) – 50 pcs
Marking bed parts
Below you will see a sketch of the bed with notes on what to pay attention to. It is most convenient to start marking with large parts. For example, attach double footrests to the legs of the bed. They are attached to the headboard, footboard, as well as to the inner legs made of rough chipboard, 3 pieces for each part.
On the headboard and footboard parts, you need to measure 80 mm from the top and from the side edges. After this, you need to attach our overlays and screw them to the chipboard with 3.5*25 screws (from the side that is NOT visible). Those. the pad is screwed to the headboard from the outside, and to the foot - from the inside of the bed.
After screwing the MDF trims, you need to work on the side drawers. Namely, from the inside it is necessary to screw 200*50 mm support strips onto them for the under-mattress shield. Measure a distance of 116 mm from the top of the drawer, and along this line attach a support bar on which the mattress shield will rest.
Assembling a double bed
Assembling a double bed - assembly of parts, types of fasteners
The side drawers to the headboard and footboard need to be secured with confirmations, to which plugs will then be attached. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the drawers are attached to the headboard and footboard with an indentation of 30 mm from the edge of the side panel. Here you need to add another 8 mm to get exactly in the center of the end of the drawer for drilling. In height (vertically), the drawer is located with indentations of 50 mm from the top of the footboard and 100 mm from the bottom of the back of the bed and from the headboard (see the diagram).
Fastening the drawer of a double bed
You can read more about drilling holes in chipboard.
After you put these 4 parts together, all that remains is to screw the inner legs of our bed onto the metal corners to the headboard and footboard, and also put the under-mattress shield.
To install them correctly, on the head and foot of our double bed you need to measure 538 mm from each edge, and at this distance, screw these legs using furniture metal corners.
Required drawings and documentation
We hope that this information will help you make a bed with your own hands, similar to the one you see in the photo above, and your significant other will appreciate it!
Send us photos of handmade products with a description of the work - we will definitely post them on the website with information about you, the world should know the heroes!
Good luck to all home crafters!
The bed is the main attribute of any bedroom. If you value comfort, then you will definitely prefer to purchase a wooden bed for your bedroom. What should you pay attention to when purchasing? What beds are the most popular? How to determine the correct size and do you need to know the formula for a comfortable crib? Don't miss further in our article.
Features of use
It is enough to plunge into the soft embrace of an ordinary crib to look cheerful and healthy throughout the day. You shouldn’t be surprised, because adequate sleep is considered the key to well-being and appearance.
A comfortable bed is necessary for proper sleep and rest, otherwise constant back pain and dark circles under the eyes will be eternal companions.
Follow the selection criteria, taking into account size, material, functionality, design.
Advantages of wooden furniture
One of the main questions that worries buyers is the type of material from which the product is made. When choosing a material, be picky and scrupulous, since the quality of a night's rest depends on the choice.
What should you pay attention to?
When choosing a place to relax, you should consider one basic rule; bedroom furniture, as a rule, is updated no more than once every 10 years.
You should pay attention to strength and resistance to swinging.
Solid wood is considered one of the best options. This natural material is not only of high quality, but is environmentally friendly.
Solid wood looks noble in the interior of a bedroom, can become a bright decoration in the interior of a bedroom and will serve its owners for many years.
Of course, such material is currently considered expensive, but the positive qualities of the array are worth it.
A sleeping place made of wood will serve its owners for a long time. At the moment, wooden beds are at the peak of popularity
Carved patterns can easily fit into a classic interior, will be appropriate in a Scandinavian modern style, and look ideal in such a romantic design as vintage or patchwork.
It is also worth noting that, despite their weightless design, such beds are highly durable and durable.
Which cribs are the most popular?
The market has been filled with MDF products. This material has numerous advantages and an affordable price, so it has become the most widespread.
However, furniture is made from chipboard, veneer, plywood, wood and other materials.
The manufacturer can offer the client various options:
- unpainted;
- toned;
- smooth veneer
With its help it is possible to achieve natural shades.
Frame bed
A budget option includes a bed frame. You can install it even on an uneven surface, since the legs are height adjustable.
With lifting mechanism
- This design is convenient to install in a narrow bedroom, as it provides unobstructed access to the laundry compartment.
- The lifting mechanism has a smooth motion, thanks to which you do not have to apply much physical force when opening it.
- This bed can be called multifunctional and comfortable.
- Some parents like a loft bed, which can be used to organize a workspace for the child.
Many models are produced with desks and sports equipment. What kind of bed do you need?
Double from one and a half meters or more
Despite certain standards, the consumer can choose the width of the bed, which depends on age, comfortable sleeping position and even climate, because the hotter the region, the wider the crib should be.
Almost all modern furniture factories make beds to individual customer orders. In this case, not only the size is taken into account, but it can also create a unique design.
For such cribs it is easy to choose a furniture set of any format, size, design and other design features, including luxurious double beds
Double models made of solid wood can not be purchased in every furniture showroom.
In addition, furniture stores often offer a very modest range of these products.
To provide the buyer with a wide selection of double beds, it is necessary to use large retail areas. And not every salon can afford this, so more and more often double beds are purchased on the Internet - in virtual furniture showrooms.
Made from solid wood
A double bed made of solid wood is used in furniture production and is especially popular among demanding consumers.
Beds made from timber and boards look especially beautiful in an eco- or ethno-style interior, and will also be an indispensable attribute in a country house or dacha.
From logs
Unfortunately, the classic design does not combine with such a natural material as a log and is unlikely to be appropriate in a traditional room.
If the user likes to experiment and mix styles, then log loungers can be combined with glass and forged elements.
Made from MDF, fiberboard, chipboard
Bedroom furniture made from MDF, fiberboard or chipboard is the most common option among other more reliable materials.
Unlike the above products, such models are inferior in reliability, but are much cheaper.
Moreover, a stock made from this material quickly becomes loose, creaks, and very quickly becomes unusable. But if this furniture is purchased for a short period of time or is used very rarely, this economical option is the ideal solution.
Transformable bed
In addition to common classic designs, thanks to bold design ideas, a double bed has turned into a multifunctional piece of furniture that not only serves as a convenient and comfortable place for a good rest, but also serves as a spacious wardrobe or can easily be converted into an ordinary chest of drawers or wardrobe.
A built-in transformable bed is an ideal solution for small spaces and studio apartments.
With a slight movement of the hand, this furniture turns into a compact bookcase or home bar. It takes up very little space and is a kind of know-how in the production of original furniture.
Podium bed
Podium beds, unlike transforming and traditional models, take up a lot of space in the bedroom. But unlike their furniture relatives, they are considered a practical and convenient option, since thanks to the spacious niche they can solve the problem of storing things.
There is no more important piece of furniture in a modern apartment than a bed. A person needs to rest after a hard day of work, and a bed can help with this. Of course, choosing a bed is not an easy task, and often simply impossible. If for some reason it didn’t work out to choose a bed for a pleasant stay, you can always do it yourself. Next we will describe how to make a bed with your own hands.
Kinds
First, it is worth noting that the appearance, size and materials from which the bed will be made completely depend on the imagination and financial capabilities of the person assembling it. The options are different: from a simple single wooden bed to a large double bed, made in the shape of a spaceship, decorated with various elements. The most common options can be identified.
A simple, most familiar model, chosen by many precisely because of its ease of execution. Four legs, two cross fastenings on the sides, two backs and a slatted bottom. In a word - classic.
The next step in modern bed-making was the equipping of their products with drawers - for storing various things in them, from bed linen to some personal items. Almost any bed can be equipped with drawers, even after its assembly is completed.
Today, transforming beds are gaining great popularity. As you can understand from the name itself, such a bed can be turned into a completely different piece of furniture with a slight movement of the hand. It allows you to save a lot of free space in the apartment.
There are also a lot of transformation options, and here are the main ones:
- Wardrobe bed. The frame of such beds is often made of light but durable metals that can not deform under constant loads during sleep, as well as when stored folded. The bed itself is a vertical structure with three walls, built-in drawers and a lifting mechanism on which the frame is installed.
When folded, the closet can be closed either by the bottom of the frame or by special doors that open during sleep. The big disadvantage of this design is the limited number of things that can be placed in the cabinet drawers. These will not be very frequently used items. However, the space that such a bed will help save most often covers this minus.
- Bed-table. Most often, this transformation option is used in families with children attending school. The size of the table (and the bed that comes from it) is very limited, and it is quite difficult for an adult to enjoy a pleasant sleep. To strengthen the entire structure, a furniture wall with cabinets and shelves is used, into which a table is mounted, the far part of which turns into a bed.
- Perhaps, chair-bed is the most common type of sliding beds without a frame found in most apartments. Such products are also called frameless. Additional sleeping space for one person, as well as a comfortable chair for the rest of the time, it couldn’t be better. Previously, such a chair was an integral part of a set with a sofa, but today, due to the growing popularity of decorating apartments in the style of minimalism, the fashion for such products is rapidly disappearing.
- Pouf bed. The same transformable bed, but without armrests and backrest. A modern folding bed with high-quality fillings and spring blocks. This option is suitable for almost any apartment, since this product takes up very little space, folds out into a bed in literally seconds and is ideal for sleeping.
Folding horizontal products can be considered a separate type of bed that you can make with your own hands. Such models differ from transformers in that they do not turn into any separate piece of furniture, but are folded using a special mechanism into a furniture wall, into which almost everything necessary can be additionally built-in.
Floating beds are the rage of modern fashion. They, of course, do not float, but due to the original organization of the elements holding the bed, it seems as if nothing is holding it at all. The decision to make and install such a model in your apartment is quite bold, but at the same time extremely interesting.
There are many different options for decorating the space under the bed. There is lighting, shimmering with all the colors of the rainbow and creating the effect of romance and mystery, and various rugs that turn the room into a soft, pleasant room. There are many options, just use your imagination.
The last variety worth talking about is hanging beds. They look very beautiful and truly unique, although making such a bed even with your own hands will be easier than other pieces of furniture. The main condition for using this type of sleeping place is the ability to allocate a sufficiently large space for it, since the hanging mechanism tends to swing with a small amplitude.
Deciding on the size
When making something with your own hands, there are many, many things to consider. When choosing a bed, its size will be a very important factor. Of course, the size also depends on a variety of nuances.
The first nuance is the need to have a certain number of sleeping places in the room. If the room allows, then you can provide it with a bed of absolutely any size. Of course, many make classic single and double beds. So, the following nuance emerges.
For almost any homemade bed, you need to choose a mattress that should very clearly fit the size of the bed. This is a very important choice, since an incorrectly selected mattress can become the key to poor sleep, leading to various nervous disorders, psychoses, and problems with the human skeleton. Currently, mattresses are manufactured in the following size ranges:
- 90×200;
- 120×200;
- 140×200;
- 180x200;
- 160×200;
- 80×190;
- 180×80;
- 90×190;
- 70×160;
- 120×180;
- 150×200;
- 90×180;
- 170x80.
Based on this size chart, you should also calculate the size of the future bed. Of course, everything should be done as carefully as possible. There should not be any inaccuracies.
Mattress base options
Having decided on the dimensions, you can move on to choosing such an important part of the bed as the base for the mattress. Yes, of course, you can do without a mattress, replacing it with a non-removable filler from the same chair-beds and similar furniture, but it is extremely difficult to do this at home, so most often beds are made for a mattress.
They are like this:
- Today it is already considered a relic of the past, but in some places you can still see a flat base. It consists of boards knocked together to form wooden shield, on which the mattress is placed. There are practically no advantages to this design (compared to more modern options), but there are a lot of disadvantages.
- Slatted bottom. The most common base option. This product is sold in almost any store and can be replaced with a slight movement of the hand. It consists of several bending strips (lamellas), made of different materials (most often wood is used), placed at an equal short distance from each other and laid on a frame. It is inserted directly into the mattress niche.
There are options with shock absorbers that automatically distribute weight throughout the mattress, and products without them, designed for light loads. If something happens to the slats, as mentioned above, they can even be replaced one at a time.
- Orthopedic. Such a bottom always has a metal frame at its base - a pipe that holds the entire structure. The lamellas at such a base bend better - due to a special manufacturing method associated with gluing the material from which the parts are made. So-called lath holders, made of plastic and designed to hold the lamellas, are attached to the frame.
- Plastic. Such bases are quite different from all previous options in that they are based on plastic springs, which provide better elasticity of the frame and the ability to control the level of rigidity of the sleeping place. Of course, this option is also more expensive, but its orthopedic component makes you think a hundred times about whether it is worth saving on your health.
Features of the metal product
When choosing various metals as the main materials for making a bed, you should make sure that the selected material will be as durable as possible and can withstand heavy loads. Today, beds made of metal are even cheaper than their wooden “counterparts”. Most often, profile pipes are used to make the frame, which are easier to work with. Buying them is also quite easy.
As in any business, making a metal bed frame is fraught with various difficulties. At home, for example, it is almost impossible to make such products, because you need to have a rather specific tool for cutting, processing and welding metal structures. However, all efforts will be justified, since the end result will be a bed that will serve faithfully for many years. It is quite possible that not even one generation.
It should also be taken into account that a metal bed:
- Has more weight than analogues.
- Often non-dismountable, so the installation location must be chosen wisely.
- Due to joints and poorly processed welds, it can damage interior elements, the floor, and also cause injuries to both children and adults.
You can even make a bed from polypropylene pipes, which will be much cheaper, more convenient to assemble, but at the same time less durable. Such designs are not designed for heavy weight, and they are recommended to be used only for the manufacture of children's beds. Of course, no one forbids making an adult bed, but this is fraught with its rapid deformation, destruction - and simply poor sleep.
Popular materials
Having decided on the dimensions, frame and base for the mattress, it is worth thinking about another very important element. About the material from which all previous elements will be made. Of course, wood will be the most environmentally friendly, visually pleasing and aesthetically correct choice, but its cost can scare off many craftsmen.
If price is not the main thing for you, then you should pay attention to the fact that for the bed you need to choose only the highest quality wood species, such as oak, beech, ash, mahogany, birch and others. The materials must be well dried and without the slightest cracks. Of course, there shouldn't be any knots either. These can be boards or bars, fastened with special glue - to obtain so-called laminated boards. When the boards are ready, they are coated with a special water-based varnish, which will ensure preservation of their appearance and protection from moisture for many years.
- The most difficult type of tree to understand is aspen. For some reason, many craftsmen (and ordinary people) associate this particular tree with various superstitions, which vary so much that it is extremely difficult, and often impossible, for an unprepared person to understand.
Of course, this tree species is famous not only for superstitions. Even the most skilled experts cannot decide what time of year is best to cut aspen for further processing. Some say it's the end of spring, others prefer the end of summer. In general, everything is very ambiguous.
- The most popular and cheapest material today is PVC – or polyvinyl chloride. This material is a colorless plastic, very convenient for processing and further use. It has average characteristics in terms of price and quality ratio, which is why it is so popular, but experts say that polyvinyl chloride, when heated, emits dangerous fumes that can harm human health.
- Approximately at the same level of popularity as PVC MDF - or fine fraction. The name, of course, sounds quite unusual, but in reality these are just slabs made using high pressure (from medium-density wood fibers).
MDF has a fairly obvious disadvantage. Of course, we are talking about a very bad combination with water. Too much humidity for such a material is detrimental, since dry compressed fibers swell, destroying the original structure of the board, as well as the paint coating, which greatly affects the appearance and possibility of further use of the product as a whole.
- As mentioned above, in addition to wood and plastic, other materials are also used to make beds. various metals, from simple sheet iron to gold and platinum. The features of this choice are described in the corresponding section.
How to make a two-tier model at home?
It may seem that making a bunk bed is not very necessary for most people, but for families raising two or more children, this model is a real salvation. Of course, if there is a separate children's room, then you can put a couple of beds for each baby, but is it worth cluttering up the extra space that can be used as a wall bars, for example.
Wooden
This model is the simplest of all possible, so almost any (even a beginner) craftsman can make it. Such beds are called classic. Such furniture consists of only 11 necessary elements:
- vertical racks – 4 pcs.;
- covers for vertical posts – 4 pcs.;
- drawers - 4 pcs.;
- longitudinal strips for frame boards – 4 pcs.;
- top panels of headboard and footboard – 4 pcs.;
- central headboard and footboard strips – 4 pcs.;
- stair railings – 1 pc.;
- stairs steps – 3 pcs.;
- fencing strips – 4 pcs.;
- slats for the base of the mattress – 24 pcs.;
- end boards of the supporting frame – 4 pcs.
- First you need to install the headboard and footboard. To do this, the corresponding upper and central strips are attached to the vertical posts at the required level.
- Then drawers are installed in special grooves, which are fastened with self-tapping screws.
- After installing the structure, you can begin to secure the staircase railing and its steps.
- We can say that the assembly is complete. All that remains is to further process all the joints to avoid the appearance of burrs and chips, as well as install guard rails on both beds and lay transverse slats to support the mattress.
How to assemble a retractable podium bed?
A podium bed is one of the types of transformers, but this furniture differs from them in that it does not turn into another piece of furniture on its own, but when folded becomes part of the room as a whole. A podium is an artificial elevation that serves as the floor in a room.
When you are about to start assembling, you need to realize that the manufacture of such a complex structure is, although a very practical solution, but at the same time such work is very difficult. To install such furniture, you should contact specialists.
If the services of a specialist are not necessary, here are some assembly tips:
- First you need to draw a sketch of the future podium - along with a built-in bed. To do this, you need to know as accurately as possible the dimensions of the room, the height of the bed frame, its width and length, the height of the mattress that will be used for sleeping, as well as the height of the wheels with which the bed will roll out of its “storage.”
Instead of wheels, you can use a special mechanism, but its installation should also be taken into account in the calculations, since its parts make the bed slightly wider. In no case should you choose the height of the bed frame close to the hole from which it will be removed, in order to avoid jamming and other operational problems.
- As soon as the sketch is completed, everything is measured to the nearest millimeter, you need to start choosing the materials from which all the elements will be created. When creating such structures, you should pay attention to additional strengthening of the podium supports to avoid collapse. It is recommended to use plywood or MDF as the floor of the podium, since they have the required strength, but at the same time are not very heavy.
- After selecting the materials, you can begin assembly, but before this you need to dismantle the skirting boards, since they will definitely interfere with the installation of the frame. At the initial stage, according to a pre-drawn sketch, it is necessary to assemble a frame in which space should be left for the bed itself, space for storing other things, as well as stairs. The next stage of assembly will be the bed frame, also created according to the sketch. After all the manipulations, all that remains is to assemble the storage boxes, cover the podium frame with plywood or MDF and attach a ladder.
All. The podium bed is ready.
Homemade model with a lifting mechanism: step-by-step instructions
As with any other bed, the assembly of this model must begin by creating a drawing. The more detailed and better it is made, the easier it will be to assemble the bed. Hard to learn, easy to fight. If you have no experience in assembling such beds, then you can take ready-made drawings on the Internet or from manufacturers.
So, the drawing is ready, it’s time to decide on the necessary materials and tools. For assembly you will need boards, wooden slats, particle board (chipboard), self-tapping screws with a set of screwdrivers and a lifting mechanism. Unfortunately, it is extremely difficult to make it yourself, so you will have to buy it. The lifting mechanism can be gas or mechanical. The gas mechanism can be fixed in a certain position or without.
Once everything you need has been collected, you can proceed to the most important thing - preparing the parts and assembling:
- First, you need to make the sides, drawers, headboard, and bottoms for the drawers from chipboard or MDF.
- You need to assemble a frame for the base from timber.
- Then a base for the mattress is created - from boards and wooden slats.
- From these parts you can assemble a frame. Once the frame is assembled, the bed can be considered almost complete. All that remains is to attach the drawers and sides, attach the bottom of the drawers and fix the headboard.
- The final touch will be the installation of the lifting mechanism and the covering of the finished product. For cladding, it is best to use sheet foam rubber laid in several layers. This will give the product softness and comfort, and will also hide all the sharp corners.
You can cover the foam with fabric or other materials - such as leatherette or leather. The main thing is that the selected material matches the overall interior of the room. This will give the bed an aesthetically pleasing and complete look.
How to make a round bed correctly?
Round beds, although they are interesting interior solutions, are still not installed very often in apartments, since not everyone can afford to install such a piece of furniture in the center of the room, where it belongs. In the corner it will “eat up” the free space.
As before, you should start preparing with a drawing, the most important detail of any business. It is necessary to compare the size of the room in which the bed will be installed with the future dimensions of the bed itself. Most often, round models are made double.
Having decided on the dimensions and prepared everything you need, you can begin manufacturing parts and assembling:
- To begin with, from two sheets of MDF or plywood, using special measuring tools, you need to cut out two semicircles - the future base for the bed.
- A crosspiece, specially assembled from bars equal in length to the diameter of the base, is attached to the finished circle, on which the legs and another cross are installed, crowning the bed frame.
- After preparing the crosspieces, additional legs are installed around the perimeter of the circle, designed to improve the stability of the bed.
- After these manipulations, the frame is turned over - and we can say that its assembly is complete. The last step of creation will be the installation of sides for the mattress made of thin plywood, as well as covering the finished product with foam rubber (for softness) and fabric (for beauty).
Decor options
As mentioned above, assembling a bed largely depends on the imagination of the assembler and his ability to pay, which gives a lot of options for the final product. If we talk about decoration, then in this regard the number of options is simply huge. The main thing is to be able to choose the appropriate method. This requires good taste.
With the help of various decorative figurines, inlays, imitation precious stones or real jewelry, carvings, combining different types of upholstery and other options, even the simplest bed can be turned into a work of art. Even just leather or leatherette can completely change the look of a bed. If you add a carriage tie there, the result will be simply amazing.
You shouldn’t go too far in decorating, as in any other matter, otherwise all the efforts made will lead to pretentiousness and loss of beauty of the finished product.
In addition to the types of beds described above that you can create with your own hands, there are also quite unusual ones - and very interesting for use in the interior.
One of these non-standard solutions is a bed made from plastic bottles. Of course, this is not the pinnacle of art, and the convenience of such a design is very questionable. However, if you equip such furniture with lighting, and use bottles as many legs under a real base for a mattress, then it can turn out very, very good.
Non-standard, but gaining popularity in the modern world, are beds made in the loft style. This style in itself implies the design of the entire room in the form of a workshop or factory premises, so the bed should be appropriate. You can, for example, hang it from the ceiling so that it stays there on a special structure until the appointed hour. At night, the bed is lowered and used for its intended purpose. An interesting frameless solution, to say the least.