The service life of good brake pads is approximately 30 - 40,000 kilometers, bad ones - about 10 - 15,000, sooner or later you will still have to change them, they simply wear out from constant braking. Of course, you can go to a service station where they will do all the work for you, but it is better to be able to do it yourself, and you can save about 500 rubles. As you may have guessed, I will show you using my car as an example; of course, as usual, there will be a video version of the article. So let's read and watch...
To be honest, the process is very basic, and similar to almost all front-wheel drive cars. Therefore, it will be useful for almost everyone! If we talk about time, it will take about 30 - 40 minutes on both sides, this includes raising the car on a jack and unscrewing the wheel.
What do you need?
Before moving on to replacement, we prepare the necessary tools, and also buy consumables, these are not only pads (we’ll talk about them below), this is also lubricant for the guides and the caliper piston itself.
So, for my car I need a 10mm wrench, a gas wrench, a screwdriver, lubricant, friction elements and that’s it.
The lubricant was purchased specifically for the guides, a small bag costs 120 rubles. It protects and lubricates the insides.
Basically, the calipers are held on by two bolts (top and bottom), often they are the guides themselves, usually the key is at “10”, rarely at “13”. Sometimes it’s worth taking the “18” as well, I have a nut inside that SOMETIMES needs to be held (however, no matter how many times I changed it, it never came in handy).
About brake pads (KOTL company)
I am often asked - which ones to take? Guys, search and experiment, that’s the only way! I know from experience that the original ones last a VERY LONG time. I also bought HI-Q companies, they also want nothing, about 20 - 25,000 kilometers, but they write about them that they are ahead of time.
Therefore, I decided to try another company, took a domestic manufacturer, but makes it using Austrian technology, as can be seen from the name “KOTL”. The salesman at the store said that these are some of the best at the moment. For me it is important that they do not creak, are moderately soft, and last a long time, at least 25,000 km.
I also took it with squeaks, they are at the bottom of the friction layer, when critical wear occurs they begin to make squeaks - which means they need to be replaced.
The cost is about 650 - 700 rubles, I bought it a long time ago (about a month ago), unfortunately the receipt was lost, but I think this is not so important.
We change near the house
I have an asphalt area near my house, I have a jack, the necessary tools, two hands - why not change it yourself? No sooner said than done.
To start
We put the car on the handbrake, if necessary, you should put something under the wheels (as insurance), I also stuck “P” (PARKING). Another important detail, you need to unscrew the cap of the brake fluid reservoir (either remove it or allow air access - open it slightly). This is done in order to defuse the atmosphere inside the system so that the caliper piston can be easily pressed out.
Raising the car
As usual, first we loosen the nuts with a wheel wrench (IMPORTANT, do not remove them completely, just “tear them off”; usually they are screwed very tightly).
Then we put the jack up and raise the car, then we finally dismantle the wheel.
Replacement process
Before us is the brake system, we need to unscrew two bolts at the top and bottom, as shown in the picture, remove them
Then press the piston with a screwdriver in order to release the pads, otherwise it will be problematic to disassemble the structure
The caliper sees everything, just lift it up, you can attach it to the spring. There are two pads in front of us; we use a screwdriver to pull them out. Installing new ones
Before assembling the complete system, we inspect the guide boots and the piston boot. They should be without any damage, there should be no cracks and especially no tears; if there are any, we CHANGE them. I also RECOMMEND everyone to use special grease for the caliper guides. REMEMBER - they should walk freely, not “stuck”!!! If this occurs, it will quickly wear out the pads and brake discs.
You can also lubricate the piston itself; if you haven’t lubricated it for a long time, you definitely need to do this! Usually grease is also packed under the boot.
Change brake pads It’s much cheaper to do it yourself than to take the car to a car service center.
By following the tips below, you can restore the ability of your car to brake normally, and you will only spend money on necessary materials.
Removing the brake pads
Choose the right brake pads. You can buy them at a parts store or dealership. In the store, tell the make of the car, its model and year of manufacture, and select the pads of the appropriate price category. In general, the more expensive they are, the longer they will last.
- Very expensive high quality metal pads are most likely intended for rally use and high performance brake rotors. You should not buy them, because regular brake discs wear out faster with such pads. Additionally, some people find that cheap pads are noisier than more expensive brand pads.
Make sure the car has cooled down. If you've driven it recently, the calipers, pads and brake rotors may burn when touched. Do not remove parts until they have cooled down.
Loosen the nuts. Using a wrench and jack, loosen each wheel nut about two-thirds of the way.
- Do not remove all the wheels at once. You will need to replace at least two front pads or two rear pads, depending on how evenly they are worn. So start with either the front ones or the back ones.
Carefully jack up the car so that the parts can be easily removed. Check your car's owner's manual to make sure you installed the jack correctly. Place bricks in front of the wheels to prevent the car from rolling.
- Place a jack stand or bricks under the frame of the car. DO NOT rely on the jack alone! Do the same on the other side so that the machine is securely fixed.
Remove the wheels. Remove the nuts completely only when the car is already raised with a jack. Pull the wheel straight towards you and remove it.
- If the wheels are light alloy and are held on studs, then before changing the wheel, you need to clean the studs, holes in the nuts, and the mounting location with a wire brush brake disc and the rear surface of the wheel mount, and then apply a special lubricant to the surface of the studs.
Remove the caliper bolts using the appropriate size spanner. The caliper clamps the brake disc and its function is to create traction with the discs using hydraulic pressure, which slows the wheel before the brake pads are applied. Calipers usually consist of one or two parts, and are attached with two to four bolts to the hub, where the wheel fits onto the axle. Spray these bolts with WD-40 to make them easier to remove.
- Check caliper pressure. When the machine is at rest, the caliper can be moved slightly back and forth. If the caliper does not move, it is under pressure and may fall off when you remove the bolts. Even if the caliper is loose, be very careful.
- Check for shims or fabrication washers between the caliper mounting bolts and the mounting surface. Remove them, if any, and do not forget to put them back later. The calipers are placed separately from the brake pads, so you need to measure the distance from the mounting surface to the pads in order to then place them in the right place.
- Many Japanese cars have two-piece slide-in calipers that only require removal of the two front bolts with 12-14mm heads. There is no need to remove the entire caliper.
Hang the caliper on a wire on the wheel well. The caliper is connected to the brake line, so hang it on a piece of wire or other unnecessary material so that it does not put pressure on the flexible brake hose.
Changing pads
Remove the old pads. Notice how each block was attached. They are usually snapped into place using metal clips. Remove both pads. You may have to force them to pop out, so be careful not to hit the calipers or brake line.
- Check the brake rotors for deformation, heat damage, or surface cracks. Replace drives if necessary. It is recommended to replace the brake discs when replacing the brake linings.
Install new pads. Now you can lubricate the edges of the metal parts and the back surface of the pads so that they do not creak. Just do not apply lubricant to the inner surfaces of the pads, they will stop performing their functions. Attach the new pads in the same way as the old ones.
Check the brake fluid level. Add liquid if needed. Then put the brake fluid reservoir back.
Replace the caliper. Slowly and carefully, without touching anything, slide the caliper onto the brake disc and bolt it to the hub.
Put the wheels back. Reinstall the wheels and hand tighten each lug nut before lowering the vehicle to the ground.
Tighten the nuts. With the car on the ground, tighten each nut in a star pattern until they are all tightened to specifications.
- Check the specifications in your machine's owner's manual. This is to make sure that all the nuts are tight enough to prevent the wheel from coming off. Also, thanks to the manual, you can make sure that the nuts are not overtightened.
Start the car. After making sure the car is in neutral or park, apply the brakes 15-20 times to get the pads into place.
Test new pads. Drive down an empty residential street at a speed of no more than 5 mph, and then brake as you normally would. If the car brakes well, then increase the speed to 15 km/h. Check the brakes a few more times, gradually increasing the speed to 50 km/h. Also try to brake while driving in reverse. All this will help the pads “sit” in the right place, and you will be able to make sure that you have installed the pads correctly and confidently drive your car along a busy street.
- Listen to sounds as you ride in case problems arise. New pads may squeak, but if you hear metal grinding on metal, you may have the pads installed backwards (that is, with the inside facing out). In this case, you need to urgently rearrange them.
Bleeding the brake system
Remove the cap from the master cylinder reservoir. Brake fluid becomes contaminated when exposed to the environment, dust gets into it, and it also absorbs moisture from the air, which affects its boiling point - this can be dangerous. The fluid must be drained from the system before replacing the pads and calipers, however (paradoxically), this fluid will still be needed during the process. Check the fluid level, add if necessary.
Place the other end of the hose into the bottle. To prevent air from entering the system, the bottle must be suspended or held above the calipers.
Check carefully to see if there are any bubbles. If you hear a gurgling noise when you press the brake pedal, it means there is still air in the system. Then you need to continue draining the liquid.
- If you're working on rear brakes, pay attention to the parking brake. Remove and adjust it with care.
- Try turning the steering wheel to turn the front wheel outward before you start changing anything. This will make it much more convenient to work with the front wheel caliper - it will be easier to reach it. However, be careful when working with the caliper.
- Check whether the brake discs are rusted or worn out - this may be the cause of squeaking pads. The main thing is that they are not ground down to a minimum thickness.
Warnings
- Always use a jack stand and place bricks in front of the wheels to prevent the car from rolling. Don't rely on the jack alone.
- Do not allow lubricant to get on the surface of the pads, otherwise they will cease to perform their functions.
- Do not unscrew brake pipe from the caliper, otherwise air will get into it and ruin everything.
Any car owner can change the front brake pads themselves in a garage or in the field. This step-by-step instruction will help you change brake linings correctly and without errors. Even those who first decided to swing the pads with their own hands will be surprised how simple and quick the procedure is.
If you service your car yourself, you will get satisfaction as a result and, of course, save money.
How often should you check the brake pad thickness and brake fluid level? The answer is obvious - regularly. If the linings are worn thinner than two mm, then do not put off replacing them under any circumstances - this can lead to the caliper jamming and expensive repairs.
Keep in mind that the front pads wear out faster. On disc brakes, checking the brake lining thickness is very easy visually, so be sure to do this often.
What tools are needed to replace brake pads yourself.
As you can see, the set of tools you will need is minimal.
Attention! Before you start replacing brake pads, make sure that the new pads fit your car, in other words, make sure that you bought the right pads.
Step 1. Open access to the brake mechanism.
Place the car on a hard, level surface, and place stops under the wheels so that it does not accidentally roll. These can be either special “shoes” or ordinary bricks or bars.
Before jacking up the car, remove the wheel bolts. Then we lift the required side with a jack, completely unscrew the bolts and remove the wheel. Now access to the caliper is open.
Step 2. Remove the old pads.
The caliper fits onto the brake disc like a clamp, and its job is to compress the brake disc with the pads using hydraulic pressure. This is how braking occurs.
Calipers are usually of one-piece or two-piece construction, attached with two or four bolts from the inside of the wheel to the caliper brackets.
Spray the caliper bolts with WD-40 to make them easier to remove. let the lubricant work for 5-10 minutes, then you can unscrew the caliper guides.
If there are fixing brackets, you need to remove them using a small screwdriver. Many cars have pad wear sensors, so carefully disconnect the connectors.
Check caliper pressure. Take a large screwdriver and press out a little of the block, pressing down the cylinder. This will make it easy to remove the old pads.
The car's caliper should move back and forth slightly when at rest. If not, the caliper is under pressure and may fly off when the bolts are removed. Check to see if there are any shims or shims installed between the caliper mounting bolts and the mounting surface. If so, remove and inspect them, and replace them with new ones if necessary.
Brake caliper guide bolts
Many vehicles use a two-piece sliding caliper that only requires removal of two guides with 12-14mm sockets. You won't need to remove the entire caliper.
Do-it-yourself replacement of front brake pads
Now we remove the caliper or move it to the side if we unscrewed the guides only on one side.
Carefully hang the caliper on a wire or rope to the wheel or shock absorber spring.
Do-it-yourself replacement of front brake pads
Attention! The caliper will still be connected to the brake line, so secure it so that it does not pinch or pull on the brake line.
We take out the brake pads from the brackets. We clean the pad seats with a metal brush or screwdriver.
Do-it-yourself replacement of front brake pads
Be sure to check the guide bolts - the boots must be intact, and the guides themselves must move easily and smoothly in the grooves.
Attention! Whenever the brake pads are replaced, the caliper guides must be cleaned and lubricated. This procedure will not take much time, but will extend the service life and increase the reliability of the brakes.
To lubricate the guides, use a special high-temperature grease. Litol, the old fashioned way, does not need to be used. Some pad manufacturers can find this type of lubricant included with new pads.
Step 3: Install new brake pads.
All preparatory operations have been completed - we proceed to assembly.
The first step is to press the brake cylinder completely. The brake caliper piston needs to be compressed to compress the caliper cylinder. When changing brake pads with your own hands, or if in the field, you can use a wheel wrench or a clamp to compress the caliper piston. You can also make a special tool with your own hands; use a large bolt and an old block for this. There are a lot of options, the main thing is to take into account the principle of operation of the original tool and use your ingenuity.
how to press in a brake caliper piston without a special tool in the field
Attention! Some analogue pads may differ slightly in shape. For example, the lugs of the pads may be longer than the seats in the brake calipers, and the part does not fit into the grooves. In this case, do not panic, but check whether the shape and design of the pad corresponds to other parameters.
Yes, corresponds - we grind off the extra protrusions to the size of the old block.
No, does not correspond - there are significant differences - it is necessary to select other pads. Don't try to make the wrong pads into the right ones, as this can cause the brakes to jam or perform poorly.
We insert new pads and put on the caliper. To prevent corrosion, we treat the threads with copper grease.
Change The Brake Pads in Your Car Step 9 Version 6.360p
We assemble the caliper as we disassembled it and put on the wheel.
Important! Before you go on a trip - after replacing the brake pads, you need to brake. Press the pedal all the way down. Drive and brake. And repeat this a couple of times. Everything is fine? Repeat braking at a higher speed. Make sure there is no grinding or other discomfort.
Why might the brakes jam?
- The brake caliper piston is worn or dirty. It is necessary to monitor the condition of the piston mirror and the integrity of the boots and cuffs.
- Brake pad misalignment. Check for correct installation and fit of the part.
- Wear, contamination, corrosion of caliper guides. lubricate and change the anthers or the guides themselves.
The safety of the driver and passengers depends on the condition of the pads. A car owner should know when to change brake pads. Of course, the service life of these Supplies largely depend on the quality, driving style and conditions. But to maintain braking efficiency, they need to be closely monitored. Let's look at what affects the service life of the pads and how to replace them yourself.
Brake pad life
The wear rate of these elements largely depends on the material from which they are made, as well as on the quality of the friction linings, the condition of the brake system cylinders, and driving style. Experienced mechanics in car repair shops, as well as car enthusiasts, know how long the pads can be used. Well, as for the resource, it is approximately determined by the mileage of the car. How often to change the pads can also be found in the vehicle documentation. Lining wear also depends on the type of brake. For example, for disk systems the average resource can be from 50 to 80 thousand kilometers.
Interestingly, the service life is approximately the same, although the load on the rear axle is lower. The service life also depends on the conditions in which the car is used, on driving style, as well as on the driver’s experience. If you accelerate intensively and brake frequently, then such driving greatly reduces the resource. Often guys and girls who have just gotten behind the wheel of their car forget about it and can drive with the handbrake on. This does not have the best effect on the service life of brake system parts. Long braking on long descents does not have a very good effect on the condition of the pads. How often should you change the pads? Replacement can be carried out according to the level of wear. But it is better to carry out the installation as recommended by the manufacturer of a particular car. This procedure should be carried out at a mileage of 60 thousand kilometers. In practice, it turns out that at this mileage the pads can either be already worn out or still in good technical condition.
Diagnosing the condition
In a service station, diagnostics are performed by measuring the thickness of the friction lining.
To do this, the car is placed on a flat floor. One of the sides of the car is raised with a jack, or the car is immediately placed on a lift. Then the wheel is dismantled and the thickness of the lining and disc is measured using a caliper. If the thickness of the pads is less than 2 mm, then replacement is necessary. Also during diagnostics, the condition of the disk or drum is checked. If the thickness is less than a certain level, then the part must also be replaced.
Diagnostics without service station and measuring tools
To understand when to change brake pads, you can do without a trip to the service center. You can understand that the time has come and the linings have become unusable using a visual inspection. By the highlighted marks you can easily understand that the friction lining is already very worn out. Experts also recommend monitoring the brake fluid level in the expansion tank. If it has dropped significantly, or the pad has worn out and requires urgent replacement. Don't delay repairs - it's for your safety. You can check when to change brake pads in other ways.
To do this, you need to accelerate the car to approximately 80 km/h and then perform emergency braking. The wear of the brake system elements will be indicated by the beating of the pedal. But here it’s more likely that the disk is worn out. A change in the braking process and pedal behavior may be a signal that there is an imminent need to replace brake system consumables. For example, if the car brakes more sharply or slower than usual, then you should think about it. Characteristic dust and chips may form on the surface of the discs. If, in the process of reducing speed, the grinding of metal on metal is clearly audible, then it is recommended to pay attention to the thickness of the installed lining and the very presence of the friction layer.
Pad condition monitoring system
Many modern cars have electronic systems.
They take full care of the owner. Special sensors will tell the computer when to change the brake pads, and it will display this information to the driver. On various models, they may simply indicate that the wear is critical and replacement is needed right away.
Design and principle of operation of the sensor
The structure of the element is very simple - the cover has a soft metal core. If the level of wear approaches critical, then it becomes the initiator of a short circuit. A corresponding signal will be sent to the instrument panel. But even if the sensor is installed, one nuance must be taken into account. It doesn't work correctly every time. Sometimes failures and false positives occur. This situation is due to the fact that the brakes often come into contact with moisture. The result is corrosion. And because of it, the sensors fail. It’s important to know when to change brake pads by visual inspection - it’s much safer.
Before replacement
When installing the pads, you should diagnose the condition of all mechanisms and components in the system.
Be sure to check the condition of the brake disc. It is enough to measure its thickness using a caliper. It is also a good idea to make sure that there is no damage on the surface of the disk and that the element itself is not deformed.
Replacement process
To change the brake pads at the front you will need a jack or any support with a lifting function. You also need a wheel wrench and a set of tools. Next, they hang up the front of the car, dismantle the wheel on the desired side, and remove the brake hose. Then press out the piston using a wheel wrench. Do not forget that the brake fluid level will increase. It is necessary to monitor the expansion tank.
How to change rear brake pads
Everything is not complicated here - the algorithm is almost the same for different models and brands of cars. The car is jacked up and the required wheel is removed. Then unscrew the pins and remove the drum from the hub. This is best done by tapping the drum with a hammer.
Next, disengage the spring from the block, and first remove the upper spring. Only after that the lower one. Then remove the front block and the spacer bar along with it. Next, remove the pressure spring from the rear and lower it. After this, remove the block lever from the hole for the tip. Then pull the cotter pin out of the hole, remove the washer and pin. Next, new pads are installed. The mechanism is assembled in the reverse order. To install the pressure spring and pad, use the lower spring. She clings to the hook. Then the spring is tensioned with a screwdriver and its hook is inserted into the hole on the block. The pistons are moved to the center of the cylinder by bringing the front and rear linings together using mounting blades. Here's how to change rear pads - it's really easy. Even beginners can handle this.
Vehicle components and parts that are subject to constant wear and work under extreme conditions require periodic replacement. It's no secret that reliable brakes are an essential attribute of any vehicle. Let's talk to you about how to change the front brake pads and do it right. There is nothing complicated here, so even a beginner can handle the job. But first things first.
How often should the pads be changed?
Agree, there is little point in changing new brake pads for several reasons. Firstly, the effectiveness of the work being carried out is reduced to zero, and secondly, this is money down the drain. Several factors influence the wear of this part. The main one is the manufacturer. Indeed, the rate of wear largely depends on the quality of the brake pads. And it, in turn, depends on the manufacturer. Although this does not mean that the domestic manufacturer makes bad pads. They just wear out much faster, but they also cost less. Another factor is driving style. If the driver prefers a quiet style, the front brake pads will wear out very slowly. At the same time, aggressive driving leads to their rapid wear and prompt replacement.
When is it time to change pads
If the engine oil must be completely replaced every season or after 8-10 thousand kilometers, then the situation with the brakes is somewhat different. Usually the need for replacement occurs earlier than indicated in the technical data sheet. But even if you drive calmly and rarely, the pads need to be changed on time. For example, if it is recommended to do this once every 5-7 thousand km, then this is what you should do. In addition, if the thickness of the friction linings decreases to more than 1.5 mm, then such front brake pads must be replaced immediately. If you notice that the surface of the linings is oily, they need to be changed. This is due to the fact that the adhesion of the pad to the caliper is significantly deteriorated, therefore, braking efficiency becomes lower. If you start to hear a creaking noise while stopping, then this is a clear signal that it is time to replace the pads.
Preparing for replacement
Before you begin work, you need to acquire the necessary tools. Everyone has the required equipment. First of all, you will need a jack. In addition, you need to get lifting supports. Often, the simplest analogue is a removed front wheel placed under the front part of the vehicle in the crankcase area. You also need a wheel wrench and a set of tools such as screwdrivers, spanners, etc. Since the front brake pads are quite easy to change, it won’t take you much time. However, if no one has looked there for a long time, some problems may arise. Once you have acquired the necessary tools and are fully prepared, you can begin.
Replacing front brake pads: part 1
We leave the car on the handbrake; it is advisable to place a couple of blocks under the rear wheels. Next, you need to loosen the bolts securing the front wheels and only then jack up the car. This is done this way because it is much more difficult to remove a bolt on a raised wheel. After one side has been raised, we install supports under the car. At the same time, for better access to the braking system, the steering wheel is turned. At this stage, it is necessary to assess the degree of wear not only of the pads, but also of other elements of the brake system. For example, cracks and aging of rubber on its hoses are unacceptable. They must be replaced as quickly as possible. However, if you remove them, you will have to bleed the brakes. It would be a good idea to check the condition of the caliper and discs. If everything is in order, then the front brake pads are replaced. Let's see how to do this.
Changing pads: part 2
At the first stage, clean the brake mechanism from dirt. This can be done in any way available to you, preferably with a metal brush. Look at the brake fluid level in the expansion tank. If it is at the maximum level, then you need to pump it out a little. This is due to the fact that during the installation of new pads it can overflow. In addition, the wheels may not be fully released. Next you need to press the piston into the cylinder. Usually the piston is tight, but don't be alarmed, that's how it should be. To make the job easier, use a screwdriver. Insert it between the caliper and the pad and, leaning on the latter, pull the caliper until it stops. Using a chisel or screwdriver, bend the corner of the lock washer, and use a 13mm spanner to unscrew the lower bolt of the bracket body. The latter is raised and the pads are removed. In principle, we were almost able to replace the front brake pads.
Something else
After you have removed the old pads and inserted the new ones, install everything in the reverse order. Installing front brake pads on a domestic car (VAZ-2107, for example) is very simple. But periodically it is recommended to clean the brake mechanism from dirt. This is usually done during each replacement. In addition, check the condition of the guide pin boot every time. If it is worn out, it needs to be replaced. Remember that after you replace the front brake pads on a car (Ford, VAZ, etc.), braking efficiency decreases sharply. Then the pads will rub in a little and everything will fall into place. But at first, don’t drive and try not to brake too sharply.