At the dawn of his darts, even before his first target made of Chinese pressed cardboard, the author of the text already understood that just a target on the wall was categorically wrong. The wall must be somehow protected from local snipers. Just going to the store and buying it is not an option at all; we don’t live in England. It became clear that we had to somehow paint our own protection on the wall. And the author of the text was already beginning to think about the size of the protection that would fulfill its task, but a collapse occurred in the form of the purchase of the first target made of Chinese pressed cardboard.
It was not possible to struggle with common sense for more than 7 minutes, and the target was hung on a bare wall. Well, just take a quick look with the whole family: what kind of thing is this - some kind of darts there. After another 15 minutes, it became clear that the decision to “see what kind of darts this is” was just common sense, because no matter what size protection was planned for the wall, it still would not cope with its task.
It is completely unclear to the author of the text for what reasons standard protection on a target is made with a diameter of something in the region of 70 cm (with a target diameter of 45 cm). The size of 70 cm is completely illogical in any way. Those who have been throwing for a year already do not need protection on the target in principle. For those who have just bought a target, the protection meter per meter will be too small, however. And who the standard ~70 cm are aimed at is a mystery shrouded in darkness. A protection of 70 cm is a completely useless and extremely incomprehensible size of the principle of “average temperature in the hospital” - for some it is absurdly large, for others it is categorically insufficient.
So what is the correct amount of protection, the attentive reader will ask. In our family, we received the answer experimentally after the first 2-3 months of mockery of the wall where the target hung. The area of irreparable damage caused was measured and at the same time the size of the correct protection for the target was found - it turned out to be 100 by 105 cm. 100 in width and 105 in height. It was decided to make a protective shield of this size. Moreover, make it beautiful and indestructible, and cover all this terrible destruction with it.
The first shield was a trial and error option. It was decided that the main area would be made of hardboard (fibreboard) 5 mm thick. Hardboard 5 mm thick is stitched with a dart one at a time. Therefore, the hardboard was screwed onto a frame made of wooden blocks so that there was a gap between the wall and the hardboard. It all turned out to be long and tedious, because... It was still unclear what method of attaching the target to the shield would be used - accordingly, it was not clear in which places on the hardboard on the back side the bars should be located so that the target fastener would be attached to them, and not to the air behind the hardboard. Ultimately, the frame made of bars was built so that it was suitable for two different types of steep and expensive overseas fasteners, and the target was eventually hung on the shield using the simplest standard fasteners that come with every normal target.
Hardboard on wooden blocks was wrapped in carpet. The carpet is screwed to the bars. The result is a beautiful, powerful stationary protection. I hung it on the wall and forgot about the nerves from missing the target, and the eye is happy. It cost about a grand for consumables, more than half of which was carpet.
It turned out beautiful, but loud. There is air between the hardboard and the wall. A sheet of hardboard measuring one meter by one meter with air between itself and the wall, and after a good hit with a dart it makes a good and booming sound. Even a good hardboard carpet can’t save you. They did not redo anything. That's how we live.
About a year later I had to make another shield. His task is different. This is not a stationary shield on the wall, but a mobile shield on a portable stand to provide a warm-up game line at our tournaments. The second shield was made taking into account the mistakes of the first shield and it cost not one piece, but one and a half. And all because of the same carpet - the most expensive component. It was necessary to put twice as much carpet on this shield for one simple reason. I hung a stationary shield on the wall and nothing is visible from behind it - which means there is no need for a carpet there at the back. But a mobile shield is a completely different shield - they can also look at it from behind. Moreover, a lot of people can do this. Therefore, it must be completely wrapped in carpet, and have a presentation everywhere, and therefore it is no longer a piece, but one and a half for consumables.
And of course, no hardboard on wooden blocks. The main supporting structure of the shield was plywood. I wanted to use plywood 4 mm thick, but the local store didn’t have such thin plywood and had to buy 6 mm. Either 4 or 6 mm will be pierced through with a dart if a beginner throws a dart shouting “this is Sparta!”, but this is not critical, because there is no wall behind it, but it just hangs on the counter and let it be stitched right through - it doesn’t make anyone feel hot or cold. But the weight for a mobile shield is critical. That’s why it was planned to use 4 mm plywood, not 6. For a stationary panel, I would highly recommend 1 cm thick plywood, and then do almost everything with it exactly the same way as I did with my 6 mm for a mobile panel.
First, we cut to a size of 100 by 105 cm - this takes into account the fact that a person who is at the dawn of his darts can throw at the target at tournaments. By the way, for a stationary option, I might not even saw it, but I would make it out of standard plywood measuring one and a half by one and a half meters - it’s more reliable, more monumental and larger-scale interior in the apartment, only the cost of the carpet will be even higher. Then, for sound absorption and dart-proofing, we glue the plywood on both sides over the entire area with polyethylene foam 5 mm thick. PVA glue is ideal. But actually, this is my shield with a 5 mm polyethylene foam layer. If I were making another such shield now, and especially a stationary shield and not a mobile one, I would cover it with polyethylene foam 8 mm thick rather than 5 mm. Such a layered cake will definitely not penetrate the dart and the sound from the blow will be better swallowed. Then I wrapped the whole thing in carpet and screwed the carpet to the plywood. All screws are screwed in from the back side of the shield along the perimeter of the shield and along the edges of the carpet with 15 mm screws, where 1 or 3 layers of carpet are screwed in, and with 20 mm screws, where 5 layers of carpet are screwed in - after bending the carpet in places where it is layered, exactly 5 layers come out on these bends and layers. On the front of the shield, the screw heads are completely absent. The carpet is cut extremely competently to fit the curves, as a result of which the shield looks perfect, both from the front and from the back. The photo shows the finished shield plus on either side of it a portable stand for the shield and a portable additional light.
In theory, it would be better to mount the light on the shield, but there is not enough money for it yet, and therefore the shield is not included with the light yet. We'll fix it over time. The shield in this form can be safely mounted on any wall as a stationary protection - with screws of the correct length around the perimeter of the shield + 1-2 attachment points in the center, so that they are located close to the edges of the shield and under the target during operation.
But we have a project for a mobile shield, so we are modifying the shield for a portable stand. It’s not very pleasant to do this, because... you need to drill through the shield in 5 places, and if you drill in the wrong place, then tears of disappointment can be even larger than unnecessary holes in the drilled carpet. Hmmm. First, we drill 3 holes for the bolts for the fasteners, which will be the connecting link between the shield and the rack. Just in case, there are hefty washers on both sides so that holes in the carpet don’t creep out from under them. You need to drill where the target will then cover it all up. Here's the front view.
On top of the central bolt is a homemade penny fastener for hanging a target on it. The fasteners for the target have become a consumable item for me, because... the target is carried around with itself here and there and everywhere it needs to be hung on something. It’s easier to leave the fastener in a new place once than to install it again when you return there. Therefore, fasteners for the target are a cheap consumable, which is made as follows. We go to the hardware store and buy a couple of these things there.
Then we take a dremel, a grinder, a metal file (depending on what is available), give it to our son and challenge him to saw the whole thing as it should, so that he doesn’t chew food in vain. Then we do the same with a drill/screwdriver and get holes on the side of each homemade fastener and a bunch of fasteners like this.
But we digress. Here's a rear view of our mobile shield. Not everything, but only the place where it will be hung on a portable stand. By the way, the weight of the shield came out close to 10 kg. Plus 5 kg target.
But attaching a shield measuring one meter by one meter to a post only in the center is not entirely correct. Or even completely wrong. You need at least 1 more attachment point to the stand on the perimeter of the shield. This point should be as far as possible from the target, i.e. it turns out that it should be from below and as low as possible. We will fasten it using a clamp and drill two holes under it in our carpet sheet and drive two more bolts on washers there.
Reverse side of two bolts. Above them you can see one of the screws that was used to fasten the carpet to the shield from the back side.
This is the clamp
And this is the rack assembled and you can see how it is normal and the shield is correctly connected to the rack using a clamp.
Stand on the reverse side in full height.
Full height front stand.
This is what the stand looks like with the target in a fully ready-to-use state.
And this is what the target looks like on the new shield - if the target was just out of the box, then it would not be a shame to put such a photo of such a shield on the cover of any glossy magazine.
By the way, all targets, except for the Winmau Blade 4 Dual Core target, which comes with 3 cool adjustable legs, are now attached to the protective shields using two corners like these with two screws.
Three birds with one stone are killed at once. Firstly, it is extremely easy, convenient and very fast. Secondly, the target will definitely not move after fixation. Thirdly, through hard corners the energy from a dart strike is transferred much better from the target to the shield than without them - and the target will last longer.
Well, in general, somehow this is how it turned out. I hope my experience will be useful and you will make fewer mistakes than I did.
If you are interested in looking at photos, this is the place for you - after all, 10 megapixel photos will be more viewable than 500 pixels on sports.ru.
Darts is a sports game in which competitors alternately throw three darts at the target, trying to get the maximum number of points. Appeared more than 200 years ago.
This is one of the most accessible sports, where no criteria are presented for the player’s physical condition.
What are professional darts made of?
The game is played using darts and special round target, marked into sectors. The dart consists of several parts: fletching, shank, barrels (the main body of the dart) and tip. Barrels are made of brass, nickel-silver, and tungsten. Brass- the metal is cheaper, but less dense than tungsten or nickel. Brass darts will be noticeably thicker than tungsten, which is why professionals choose tungsten, since thin darts are more convenient to hold and throw.
Mid-level players tend to buy nickel-silver dart. They are stronger than brass. Brass ones are used by beginners.
Depending on the sharpness tip, darts are divided into “SOFTIP” and “STEELTIP”. First variety- darts with a blunt end, which are used for playing electronic darts. Second— with a pointed tip for throwing at standard sisal targets.
The fletching is necessary to stabilize the flight of the dart. Highlight three main types of plumage: hard, flexible and nylon. Solid(made of polyester) is the most durable. Flexible plumage (made of soft plastic) is the most economical option. Nylon the plumage, which is chosen by professional dartsmen, is the most durable and practical.
Classic dart targets made from compressed sisal(Agave plant fiber). The sisal mass is attached to chipboard circles. Professionals use a target made using seamless formation technology canvases. The absence of seams makes the target more durable.
Sectors targets demarcated by a mesh of rigid wire. The mesh can be lamellar, round, or triangular. Pros choose plate mesh. It does not deform from hits and does not come out of sisal.
Photo 1. Cutaway view of a professional sisal dart target with Harrows Pro Matchplay wire.
DIY paper and cardboard target
To create you will need:
- Thick cardboard.
- White paper.
- Acrylic paints or markers.
- Brush.
- Pencil.
- Ruler.
- Compass.
The target consists of several circles. On a sheet of paper using a compass you need draw three circles:
- Radius = 6.35 mm(“bull’s eye”)
- Radius = 107 mm(treble ring).
- Radius = 170 mm(double ring).
From each ring you need step back inward by 8 mm and draw circles. Everything is round the field is divided into 20 equal sectors. Under each segment there is a number indicating the number of points.
Now it is necessary colorize the target so that it is bright and clear. The colors you will need for this are: black, green, red, white. First, the wedges of the field are painted alternately black and white ( segment with 20 points - black, 1 - white etc.). The part of the ring rim above each black segment is painted red, and the part above the white segment is painted green. The center of the bull's eye is red, the ring around it is green.
Attention! On the Internet there are many options for both black and white targets and color ones, which can be printed in full size and, if necessary, color.
A sheet of paper is glued to a base made of thick cardboard. Once the product has dried, it can be hung on the wall. The target should be mounted on the wall in such a way that from the center of the target to the floor was exactly 173 cm. The line at which players throw darts is located at 237 centimeters from the target.
You might also be interested in:
Making darts
Materials:
- Toothpicks or small twig.
- Needle or spicy pin.
- Insulating tape.
- Knife.
- A thread.
- Glue.
- Paper.
- Ruler.
- Pen or pencil.
How to make a wooden shank?
To make a dart it is taken 4 toothpicks, tightly wrapped with electrical tape so as to form a square bundle. Instead of toothpicks, you can take thin tree branch(preferably elm). A fragment is cut from a branch about 8-10 cm long. Next, the bark is removed from the workpiece and electrical tape is wound on one edge of the wooden fragment, as well as in the middle. At the end where there is no electrical tape, two perpendicular cuts are made. The plumage will subsequently be attached to these grooves.
A small sharp pin is inserted into the tip of the product or a needle. The tip of the future dart is tightly wrapped with thread until the tip is firmly fixed in place. You can add a little glue for strength.
Attaching the paper tail
To make plumage, take paper. It depicts a small square (side is approximately 5 cm).
The dotted line inside the square indicates fold lines (only two lines, located either crosswise or perpendicular each other). The square is bent in such a way as to form a “star”.
If the body of the dart was made of toothpicks, then the plumage attached between toothpicks. Due to the fact that they are pressed tightly against each other, securing the plumage will not be difficult. If it is a twig, then the plumage is inserted into pre-made cuts - grooves.
Subject has developed a passion for darts. This is amazing!! Subject purchased a target and darts for home. This is fine! And now how can the subject avoid tearing up all the great and especially valuable living space around the target? But this is something you need to think about... Here is a text about how to make the right defense for a target and not make offensive mistakes.
All photos are clickable. Click on it to go to Yandex.Photo and the photo itself is 10 megapixels in size.
At the dawn of his darts, even before his first target made of Chinese pressed cardboard, the author of the text already understood that just a target on the wall was categorically wrong. The wall must be somehow protected from local snipers. Just going to the store and buying it is not an option at all; we don’t live in England. It became clear that we had to somehow paint our own protection on the wall. And the author of the text was already beginning to think about the size of the protection that would fulfill its task, but a collapse occurred in the form of the purchase of the first target made of Chinese pressed cardboard.
It was not possible to struggle with common sense for more than 7 minutes, and the target was hung on a bare wall. Well, just take a quick look with the whole family: what kind of thing is this - some kind of darts there. After another 15 minutes, it became clear that the decision to “see what kind of darts this is” was just common sense, because no matter what size protection was planned for the wall, it still would not cope with its task.
It is completely unclear to the author of the text for what reasons standard protection on a target is made with a diameter of something in the region of 70 cm (with a target diameter of 45 cm). The size of 70 cm is completely illogical in any way. Those who have been throwing for a year already do not need protection on the target in principle. For those who have just bought a target, the protection meter per meter will be too small, however. And who the standard ~70 cm are aimed at is a mystery shrouded in darkness. A protection of 70 cm is a completely useless and extremely incomprehensible size of the principle of “average temperature in the hospital” - for some it is absurdly large, for others it is categorically insufficient.
So what is the correct amount of protection, the attentive reader will ask. In our family, we received the answer experimentally after the first 2-3 months of mockery of the wall where the target hung. The area of irreparable damage caused was measured and at the same time the size of the correct protection for the target was found - it turned out to be 100 by 105 cm. 100 in width and 105 in height. It was decided to make a protective shield of this size. Moreover, make it beautiful and indestructible, and cover all this terrible destruction with it.
The first shield was a case of trial and error. It was decided that the main area would be made of hardboard (fibreboard) 5 mm thick. Hardboard 5 mm thick is stitched with a dart one at a time. Therefore, the hardboard was screwed onto a frame made of wooden blocks so that there was a gap between the wall and the hardboard. It all turned out to be long and tedious, because... It was still unclear what method of attaching the target to the shield would be used - accordingly, it was not clear in which places on the hardboard on the back side the bars should be located so that the target fastener would be attached to them, and not to the air behind the hardboard. Ultimately, the frame made of bars was built so that it was suitable for two different types of steep and expensive overseas fasteners, and the target was eventually hung on the shield using the simplest standard fasteners that come with every normal target.
Hardboard on wooden blocks was wrapped in carpet. The carpet is screwed to the bars. The result is a beautiful, powerful stationary protection. I hung it on the wall and forgot about the nerves from missing the target, and the eye is happy. It cost about a grand for consumables, more than half of which was carpet.
It turned out beautiful, but loud. There is air between the hardboard and the wall. A sheet of hardboard measuring one meter by one meter with air between itself and the wall, and after a good hit with a dart it makes a good and booming sound. Even a good hardboard carpet can’t save you. They did not redo anything. That's how we live.
About a year later I had to make another shield. His task is different. This is not a stationary shield on the wall, but a mobile shield on a portable stand to provide a warm-up game line at our tournaments. The second shield was made taking into account the mistakes of the first shield and it cost not one piece, but one and a half. And all because of the same carpet - the most expensive component. It was necessary to put twice as much carpet on this shield for one simple reason. I hung a stationary shield on the wall and nothing is visible from behind it - which means there is no need for a carpet there at the back. But a mobile shield is a completely different shield - they can also look at it from behind. Moreover, a lot of people can do this. Therefore, it must be completely wrapped in carpet, and have a presentation everywhere, and therefore it is no longer a piece, but one and a half for consumables.
And of course, no hardboard on wooden blocks. The main supporting structure of the shield was plywood. I wanted to use plywood 4 mm thick, but the local store didn’t have such thin plywood and had to buy 6 mm. Either 4 or 6 mm will be pierced through with a dart if a beginner throws a dart shouting “this is Sparta!”, but this is not critical, because there is no wall behind it, but it just hangs on the counter and let it be stitched right through - it doesn’t make anyone feel hot or cold. But the weight for a mobile shield is critical. That’s why it was planned to use 4 mm plywood, not 6. For a stationary panel, I would highly recommend 1 cm thick plywood, and then do almost everything with it exactly the same way as I did with my 6 mm for a mobile panel.
First, we cut to a size of 100 by 105 cm - this takes into account the fact that a person who is at the dawn of his darts can throw at the target at tournaments. By the way, for a stationary option, I might not even saw it, but I would make it out of standard plywood measuring one and a half by one and a half meters - it’s more reliable, more monumental and larger-scale interior in the apartment, only the cost of the carpet will be even higher. Then, for sound absorption and dart-proofing, we glue the plywood on both sides over the entire area with polyethylene foam 5 mm thick. PVA glue is ideal. But actually, this is my shield with a 5 mm polyethylene foam layer. If I were making another such shield now, and especially a stationary shield and not a mobile one, I would cover it with polyethylene foam 8 mm thick rather than 5 mm. Such a layered cake will definitely not penetrate the dart and the sound from the blow will be better swallowed. Then I wrapped the whole thing in carpet and screwed the carpet to the plywood. All screws are screwed in from the back side of the shield along the perimeter of the shield and along the edges of the carpet with 15 mm screws, where 1 or 3 layers of carpet are screwed in, and with 20 mm screws, where 5 layers of carpet are screwed in - after bending the carpet in places where it is layered, exactly 5 layers come out on these bends and layers. On the front of the shield, the screw heads are completely absent. The carpet is cut extremely competently to fit the curves, as a result of which the shield looks perfect, both from the front and from the back. The photo shows the finished shield plus on either side of it a portable stand for the shield and a portable additional light.
In theory, it would be better to mount the light on the shield, but there is not enough money for it yet, and therefore the shield is not included with the light yet. We'll fix it over time. The shield in this form can be safely mounted on any wall as a stationary protection - with screws of the correct length around the perimeter of the shield + 1-2 attachment points in the center, so that they are located close to the edges of the shield and under the target during operation.
But we have a project for a mobile shield, so we are modifying the shield for a portable stand. It’s not very pleasant to do this, because... you need to drill through the shield in 5 places, and if you drill in the wrong place, then tears of disappointment can be even larger than unnecessary holes in the drilled carpet. Hmmm. First, we drill 3 holes for the bolts for the fasteners, which will be the connecting link between the shield and the rack. Just in case, there are hefty washers on both sides so that holes in the carpet don’t creep out from under them. You need to drill where the target will then cover it all up. Here's the front view.
On top of the central bolt is a homemade penny fastener for hanging a target on it. The fasteners for the target have become a consumable item for me, because... the target is carried around with itself here and there and everywhere it needs to be hung on something. It’s easier to leave the fastener in a new place once than to install it again when you return there. Therefore, fasteners for the target are a cheap consumable, which is made as follows. We go to the hardware store and buy a couple of these things there.
Then we take a dremel, a grinder, a metal file (depending on what is available), give it to our son and challenge him to saw the whole thing as it should, so that he doesn’t chew food in vain. Then we do the same with a drill/screwdriver and get holes on the side of each homemade fastener and a bunch of fasteners like this.
But we digress. Here's a rear view of our mobile shield. Not everything, but only the place where it will be hung on a portable stand. By the way, the weight of the shield came out close to 10 kg. Plus 5 kg target.
But attaching a shield measuring one meter by one meter to a post only in the center is not entirely correct. Or even completely wrong. You need at least 1 more attachment point to the stand on the perimeter of the shield. This point should be as far as possible from the target, i.e. it turns out that it should be from below and as low as possible. We will fasten it using a clamp and drill two holes under it in our carpet sheet and drive two more bolts on washers there.
Reverse side of two bolts. Above them you can see one of the screws that was used to fasten the carpet to the shield from the back side.
This is the clamp 
And this is what the target looks like on the new shield - if the target was just out of the box, then it would not be a shame to put such a photo of such a shield on the cover of any glossy magazine. 
By the way, all targets, except for the Winmau Blade 4 Dual Core target, which comes with 3 cool adjustable legs, are now attached to the protective shields using two corners like these with two screws. Three birds with one stone are killed at once. Firstly, it is extremely easy, convenient and very fast. Secondly, the target will definitely not move after fixation. Thirdly, through hard corners the energy from a dart strike is transferred much better from the target to the shield than without them - and the target will last longer.
Well, in general, somehow this is how it turned out. I hope my experience will be useful and you will make fewer mistakes than I did.
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Where to hang a dartboard and how to do it? These are the questions asked by all happy owners of a dartboard and three darts. Let's try to answer these questions.
To install the target, a free space of 3 m in length is required in front of the target and 0.5 m on each side of the target. It is advisable to hang the target away from doors and places where people may appear unexpectedly. According to the rules, the target must be installed at a height of 1.73 m from the center of the target (Bullseye) to the floor and at a distance of 2.37 m from the throwing line to the projection of the front side of the target on the floor (you need to step back from the wall on which the target hangs a distance equal to the thickness targets). To check the correct installation of the target, you can measure the distance (diagonally) from the center of the target to the throwing line, which should be 2.934 m. The target should be installed so that the “20” sector is black and is located strictly at the top of the target.
You need to think about how you will protect the wall around the target, especially at first the darts will often fly past the target. Wooden target cabinets or foam protective rings serve this purpose.
How to hang a target and a target cabinet.
Preparing the target for hanging.
1. On the back side of the target, exactly in the center, screw a screw (included with the target)
2. At equal distances from each other and from the center of the target, nails with metal holders are driven in. Metal holders prevent the target from dangling and spinning. (also included with the target)
3. The target mount is screwed into the center of the cabinet with two screws. (comes with the target)
4. The cabinet is screwed to the wall with 4 screws, so that the center of the target is at a distance of 1m 73cm.
5. The target is lowered from above onto the mount. The head of the screw screwed into the center of the target is held by a mount screwed to the cabinet.
You can start playing Darts!
The mount that comes with the target can be used for both the wall and the cabinet. Almost always, cabinets come with duplicate fastenings. The target is easy to remove, install and rotate.
DARTS.RU WISHES YOU A GOOD GAME!
There are two versions of the origin of the name of the Dartboard target, English and French.
In the first case, the name comes from the cross-section of the tree, and in the second it is assumed that the bottom of a wine barrel was originally used as a dartboard.
Darts target
There are several classifications, shells are distinguished by size, nature of the competition and materials of manufacture(foam rubber, paper, sisal and product with a magnetic base).
Reference. Professional targets are made from sisal (compressed agave fiber).
The target is divided into sectors, which are assigned numbers from 1 to 20. Standard product dimensions include the following parameters:
- Internal width of double and treble rings - 8 mm.
- Internal diameter of the bull's eye - 12.7 mm.
- Inner diameter of outer central ring - 31.8 mm.
- Distance from the center of the target to the outside of the wire of the double ring - 170.0 mm, and “trebles” - 107.0 mm.
- Overall diameter 451.0mm±10.0mm.
- Wire thickness 1.5 mm.
There is a large selection of targets, the main difference being the wire. The number of times the darts bounce off the wire directly depends on how thin it is. There are projectiles with round, triangular and blade-shaped wire.
Important! Although dart targets do not require any special maintenance, they are Do not wipe with damp or wet cloths, do not wash, and it is also undesirable for the product to be in a damp room.
How to hang it correctly
Setting up a darts target takes place in several stages.
Selecting a location
To avoid having to constantly interrupt the game because people cannot get around the playing area, the target must be placed in an isolated place, away from doorways, fragile objects and places of frequent use.
It is recommended to leave a place near the target to place the score board. It should be placed so that the board is visible to all participants in the game and observers. The darts area will approximately occupy 3.5 meters long and 1.5 meters wide.
Attention! You can't hang darts on the door or window. Thus, a door that is suddenly opened can cause serious injury to unsuspecting people.
Wall markings, diagram
There are rules for target placement. The middle of the product should be at a height 173 centimeters from the floor and at a distance 273 centimeters from the throw line. To ensure correct installation, you can measure the distance from the center to the throwing line diagonally, it should be 293,4. The target itself is placed in such a way that sector "20" was at the top. It is better to double-check the accuracy of the markings several times.
Photo 1. Installation diagram of a darts target. The distance from the center to the floor and from the throwing line to the wall is indicated.
Lighting plays a big role; it is important that all participants in the game can see the results of the throw, so It is recommended to illuminate the target on the left and right light sources installed on the ceiling.
Selection and installation of fasteners
Most often, the mount for installation comes with the target. Professional equipment is suspended from the center, everything else has a top mount.
Detailed fastening of professional type:
- A mounting disk must be attached to the center, from the back side., screw a screw into the central hole of the disk, then screw the remaining screws into the corresponding holes, this will allow you to more securely fasten the part to the target.
- The next step is to install the bracket on the wall. The bracket must have U-shaped notch. In order to align all the mounting holes of the bracket, it is necessary to screw a screw into the central hole; it must be removed after the position of the bracket is fixed and it is secured to the wall with four mounting screws.
- Then all that remains is to simply insert the mounting disk into the bracket.
Important! The target must be located parallel to the wall, without tilting.
In addition to the standard fasteners included in the kit, you can buy a special mounting mechanism for the target.
For example, it happens three-point mechanism, it allows you to simply set the target for two holders and record more one holder on top.
There is also a wall mount with a spring mechanism that allows you to rotate the product for even wear.
You might also be interested in:
How to protect a wall from darts
When playing darts, especially by inexperienced players, the darts do not always hit the target, and damage to the wall and wallpaper is often caused. Therefore, it makes the most sense to create a protective coating. Approximate Dimensions 1 meter wide and 1.5 meters high(beginners miss the target more often).
To make a protective shield at home, the following materials are used: plywood, dense foam plastic, laminate boards.
In specialized sports stores you can purchase protective circles and full-fledged dart rooms. The protective circle is hung on the target and does not require special fastening. They come in both prefabricated and solid pieces. They are usually made of dense foam material (foam).
Darts cabinets are made from wood, most often pine or oak, they look very presentable. The offices are equipped with doors on which you can keep score.
Flooring
When playing darts, it must be taken into account that floor coverings may also be damaged. especially in the area close to the projectile.
You also need to remember that dart tips easily become dull and break on tiles, concrete and stone, and floor coverings wear out very quickly in the playing area.
After tests on different floor coverings, it was found that the thickness of the coating used to protect the floor should be not less than 3 mm, in turn, the thickness of the protective layer of the coating itself not less than 0.4 mm.
Reference. In cases where the dart weighs more than 20 grams It is optimal to apply enhanced measures to protect the floor (increase the thickness of the protection by using several layers of material or use a material with greater thickness).
Best to use special carpet for playing darts, it will allow you to simultaneously mark the throwing distance and protect the floor.
You also need to take into account that half the darts playing area should be smooth without roughness or slopes, so you should check the floor with a building level.
Control measurement and marking of the throwing zone
The throwing line is located at a distance of 237 centimeters from the face of the target. To determine the plane of the front side relative to the floor, you can use a plumb line or use a pencil tied to a thread.
Therefore, the dart throwing area should be equal to 90 centimeters wide and 237 centimeters long, and for electronic products 244 centimeters in length. The throwing line can be marked with a metal or wooden plank, tape, or you can purchase a special floor marking sticker.
The throwing line should be parallel to the target and centered. A control measurement should be made by measuring the distance from the center of the projectile to each of the corners of the throwing line; it will be equal.
How to hang a target in a special cabinet
Installing a target in a special cabinet from installing it on a wall is fundamentally different only in that all manipulations with the product take place directly in the office, and a ready-made cabinet is already screwed to the wall, which will protect the wall, keep score of the game and add a “zest” to the interior.