To the tools for handmade include hand needles, thimble, scissors, measuring tape; for accessories - cutting ring, peg, dummy, patterns, tailor's chalk, etc.
In the process of making clothes, tools and devices are selected taking into account the characteristics of the fabric being processed and the type of work performed, which is important for proper organization labor, High Quality work and increasing productivity.
Hand needles Depending on the length and diameter, they are divided by numbers from No. 1 (the thinnest) to No. 12 (the thickest). The characteristics of the needles are given in table. 2.
table 2 Characteristics of needles by numbers(GOST 1170 - 54)
| Needle number | Diameter, mm | Length, mm | Application for textile processing |
| 1 | 0,6 | 35 | Cotton and silk |
| 2 | 0,7 | 30 | Lightweight cotton, silk and wool |
| 3 | 0,7 | 40 | |
| 4 | 0,8 | 30 | Medium thickness, light combed cotton clothing, etc. |
| 5 | 0,8 | 40 | |
| 6 | 0,9 | 35 | |
| 7 | 0,9 | 45 | |
| 8 | 1,0 | 40 | Coat group |
| 9 | 1,0 | 50 | |
| 10 | 1,2 | 50 | |
| 11 | 1,6 | 75 | Heavy fabrics |
| 12 | 1,8 | 80 |
In the manufacture of outerwear, needles No. 4 - 10 are most widely used.
The needle should be sharp, elastic, unbreakable, well polished, without burrs in the eye, which cause loosening and thread breaks.
Thimble needed to push the needle into the fabric; put it on middle finger right hand. There are two types of thimbles: without a bottom and with a bottom.
A thimble with a bottom (solid) is used in the manufacture of dresses and linen. The thimble should have sharp indentations for the needle to rest.
It is recommended to use a thimble without a bottom when making outerwear, since a thimble with a bottom causes sweating and rapid finger fatigue. The thimble is selected according to the finger so that one fourth of the nail remains open. When working, the needle is pushed through the side of the thimble.
Scissors They are used in various sizes and are distinguished by numbers from No. 1 (largest) to No. 8 (smallest).
| Scissors number | Recommended types of work |
| 1 - 2 | Cutting fabrics of the coat group (cloth, drape, etc.), basic work |
| 2 - 3 | Cutting costume fabrics (tights, cheviot, etc.), basic work |
| 4 | Cutting cotton and silk fabrics |
| 4 - 5 | Trimming small parts from different fabrics |
| 5 - 6 | Making cuts when processing products |
| 7 - 8 | Trimming thread ends |
The scissors should be well sharpened and the ends should close completely without making a sharp sound. With the modern organization of labor in clothing factories, scissors are almost never used when cutting fabrics, since this process is mechanized.
If, when processing clothing parts, great physical effort is required to trim (warp) several layers of fabric, scissors are replaced with basic machines (OM-1, OM-2, OM-Z), the use of which facilitates work, increases labor productivity and production culture.
Tape measure serves to take measurements from a figure, measure parts and width of seams when checking the quality of work.
Trimming ring used for trimming threads unwinding from a spool and after finishing sewing. A ring with a soldered crescent-shaped plate is placed on the index finger of the left hand. The use of a cutting ring instead of scissors helps to save time and increase worker productivity.
Peg used to remove threads from stitches that temporarily connect parts, align corners, pierce holes in parts, etc. Pegs can be made from hardwood (oak, maple, birch). The most practical and hygienic are pegs made of metal and plastic.
Dummy imitates a human figure and is used to check the correct connection of parts during the manufacturing process of a product. On the mannequin, check the correct stitching of the side and shoulder sections, stitching of the sleeves into the armholes, the lower collar into the neck, etc. During the final finishing, the product is put on the mannequin and the locations of the buttons are marked. When sorting finished products on a mannequin, check the correct fit of the product on the figure.
The mannequin is made of thick cardboard and covered with cotton fabric. The size of the mannequin is determined in the same way as the size of the figure, i.e. half the chest circumference. Products of all heights (lengths) are tested on a mannequin of the same size.
Patterns (product parts cut from cardboard or thick paper) according to their purpose are divided into standard patterns, main (working) and auxiliary (auxiliary).
Patterns - standards are used for making and checking basic patterns. Basic (working) patterns are used to apply contours and control notches when cutting fabrics and checking the quality of cut cut parts. Auxiliary (auxiliary) patterns are used in sewing shops for marking the locations of pockets, darts, folds, etc. on clothing parts. With a stable range of manufactured products, auxiliary patterns and patterns for cutting parts on tape machines are edged with special profile wire, which increases the service life pattern service in production and more accurate cutting of parts is achieved.
When unifying the processing of individual clothing parts, it is advisable to make patterns from materials that are harder than cardboard, for example metal or plastic. The service life of such patterns increases.
In mass production, metal templates are used to perform wet-heat treatment operations: bending the edges of patch pockets, ironing valves and trims in men's shirts, marking lines for stitching valves, etc. Templates are used when processing clothing units on machines using adhesive joints of parts.
For tracing patterns and drawing lines for various purposes(location of pockets, folds, darts, stitching of parts, etc.) are used tile chalk . The production uses specially prepared chalk in the form of flat tiles of different colors. To obtain thin, clear chalk lines, the chalk should be periodically sharpened so that the thickness of the drawn lines does not exceed 0.1 cm.
When performing manual work, the following must be observed: technical specifications.
1. Lines on fabrics with synthetic fiber are drawn with soap (baby, egg).
2. Temporary stitches are made with light cotton threads or twisted cotton yarn of the corresponding numbers.
3. The length of hand stitches in a line is selected depending on the type of fabric and the purpose of the line ().
4. Needle numbers are selected in accordance with the thickness of the fabric being processed and the nature of the work performed.
5. The ends of temporary stitches are secured with 1 - 2 reverse stitches.
6. Temporary stitches are removed using a peg.
Today, the types of thimbles are amazingly diverse, and each has its own purpose. All you have to do is choose the one that suits you.
1. Thimble to protect fingertips
Protects fingers during hand sewing, while quilting, and is also suitable for patchwork work. By dipping the thimble in hot water, you can give it the appropriate shape and size.
2. Silicone thimble
Provides good needle fixation when sewing from dense fabrics, as well as when stitching several layers of fabric. The thimble is comfortable to wear thanks to the holes and a special slot for the nail. Most often found on sale in packs of two pieces in sizes M and L.
3. LOVE thimble
This beautiful accessory is made with a floral pattern and a non-slip edge for better fixation of the needle while sewing. Available in sizes S, M and L.
4. Thimble-ring
Classic open thimble without top. This model is most suitable for pushing the needle sideways.
5. Adjustable thimble
If you have beautiful long nails, then this thimble is the perfect choice. It will provide maximum comfort while sewing and keep your nails in perfect condition.
The size of the thimble is adjusted by treating it with boiling water.
6. Thimble with fixing edge
Protects fingers while sewing, quilting and embroidering. The thimble is made of cast zinc. Available in five sizes from 14 to 18.
7. Ergonomic thimble
An innovative thimble that provides high comfort during use. Its base is made of soft plastic and the tip is made of hard plastic. Available in sizes S, M and L.
8. Leather thimble
Ideal for quilting and patchwork. Thanks to the elastic band on the outside, it perfectly adapts to any finger size and provides protection for the entire finger.
9. Classic golden thimble
Traditional model in gilded brass. Available in different sizes. Also available in silver color.
10. Anti-rotation thimble
It has a metal tip with a grooved surface. The base of the thimble is made of soft rubber. The model fits well on the finger and allows air to pass through thanks to its wavy shape. Available in different sizes.
Source and photo: Burda 5/2019
Let's talk about the tools that are used in sewing work. Let's start by defining what a tool is and what a device is.
Tools– objects that perform a particular job (they perform the main job).
Adaptations– items that help (facilitate) the performance of work with tools.
Tools for hand sewing include scissors, hand sewing needles, measuring tape, and a thimble.
Devices include patterns, pins, chalk, a dummy, a ring with a knife, a peg, a ripper, etc.
There are a lot of tools and accessories for sewing. More and more are constantly appearing. This article does not cover all the tools that exist.
You need to be able to choose the right tools for the job. At the same time, they must be of high quality, since the quality and speed of the work performed largely depends on this. And most importantly, when working with good tools, you get the greatest pleasure and good mood from your work. When selecting tools, you need to take into account the properties of the fabric from which the product is made, as well as take into account the type of work performed.
Hand needles.
Needles have a number of dimensional characteristics. They differ in the thickness of the needle (by its diameter), in its length, they are also distinguished by the size of the eye. The needles are numbered from No. 1 (thin) to No. 12 (thick), which characterizes the needle by thickness and length. An odd-numbered needle is longer than an even-numbered needle.
Also, when choosing a needle, you need to pay attention to its condition. The needle should be sharp, elastic and unbreakable. It should also be well polished and free of burrs. The eye of the needle must be of sufficient size. In addition, the needle should not be rusty.
Thimbles.
The purpose of the thimble is to protect the finger from being pricked when pushing the needle through the fabric. The thimble is placed on the middle finger of the right hand.
Let's pay attention to the structure of the thimble. The thimble has a cone-shaped appearance. On the surface of the thimble you can observe small depressions that are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. These grooves are designed to prevent the needle from sliding across the surface of the thimble. Thimbles can be found with or without a bottom. Usually, for manual work in light clothing, a thimble with a bottom is used, and for outerwear without a bottom.
Thimbles come in different sizes and you need to choose a size so that the thimble fits tightly around the middle finger of your right hand.
Scissors.
Scissors are used not only for cutting fabrics, but also for trimming various parts, as well as for all kinds of manual operations.
Depending on the purpose, scissors have different size in size and configuration of handles and blades. Scissors are numbered from No. 1 (the largest for coat fabrics) to No. 8 (the smallest for trimming thread ends), depending on their size and purpose.
Tape measure.
A measuring tape is usually a soft rubberized tape with centimeter and millimeter divisions printed on it. This tape is used to take measurements from a person’s figure, and it is also often used to measure the details of a product during the sewing process.
For accurate measurements, it is better to use the same measuring tape. The measuring tape stretches during operation, so it must be checked periodically.
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Convenient leather thimble, from Samantha Brenneman:
I've been sewing since I was a kid, but I could never bring myself to use a traditional metal thimble. For years I avoided using it and became resigned to the discomfort of the needle.
I recently made a baby envelope that was almost entirely hand quilted. Pushing a small, thin needle through the envelope fabric and cotton batting to make all those little stitches, I was finally convinced of how important such a thing can be. small tool. I worked my way through my project using a standard metal thimble, but could never get used to it. So, I started searching for a thimble that would not only fit better, but would also be comfortable for long-term use during long needlework.
I tried several types of leather thimbles, similar to those often used by quilters (most are made of leather and fabric with a small metal plate in the tip). None of them fit completely: one fell apart; the other has stretched during use and become thin; another was made of patent leather, too slippery to hold a needle; and finally the last one was made of such thick leather that I even needed a metal plate, but I could not feel through it what I was doing when I sewed with it.
I even tried using the fingers of old gloves with a small piece of felt inserted inside to secure the fit. These makeshift thimbles were more suitable than most, but they wore out too quickly.
The right solution
In a burst of inspiration (or frustration), I decided to design my own perfect leather thimble that would meet all the features I liked: softness; elasticity of the skin for easier grip of the needle; a long “tail” above the fingertip to select a comfortable position and easily remove and put on the thimble; and a hard tip, beveled like a fingertip to push the needle through the fabric while protecting the finger.
If you've had the same dilemma as me, or you just want a complete set of thimbles that are really easy to use, try my technique for making your own. You can make several thimbles in minutes. And it's not such a bad idea because you can take it with you wherever you sew. Plus, you'll always have a backup if one of them gets lost or wears out.
Start with a basic tube-tail pattern. She has good size for my rather small finger, but you can easily make it larger or smaller by cutting wider or at along the seam line (see below “How to make a thimble to your size”).
The wide V-shaped curve at the end provides a bevel at the end of the thimble. This beveled design ensures that the needle will hit the tip every time and won't slip off.
Thimble design
Most of my thimbles are made from soft pieces of pigskin that I have collected (3 square inches is usually more than enough, 1 inch = 2.54 cm). I also always used suede or old gloves - a wonderful fate for gloves that have lost their pair, but are a shame to throw away.
The soft leather is very flexible and comfortable, but it has a tendency to stretch, so I make my thimbles a little tight to begin with. To compensate for such stretching in the future, on each thimble I make a small “strap” immediately after the first knuckle. The strap can be made from a small strip of leather or a piece of elastic cord and the fit should be fairly snug because it holds the thimble on your finger at a comfortable angle even when the leather is stretched.
The tip itself is a kind of sandwich of two layers of leather with a small circle of hard plastic between them. A dime (approximately 10-50 penny coin) is the most suitable template for cutting out these leather circles. I cut a plastic circle from packaging or milk cartons (flat ones are also convenient plastic caps), tracing the dime again, and then cutting off the extra 1/8 inch (about 3 mm) inside the circle around the edge. Test the plastic to make sure the eye of the needle does not pierce it.
Most easy way To construct such a thimble, use both glue (Sobo or other white fabric glue) and stitching. A thin bead of glue is applied along the edges of the seam, acting as a tack, but stitching is necessary to hold the pieces together. I machine stitch the long tube (a regular needle works fine), but find it easier to sew the tip to the thimble tube by hand using a leather needle and double thread or waxed thread.
After sewing the thimble, fill the tail section with scraps of soft cotton or leather, gluing them all together. This will strengthen the tail of the thimble, which is usually pulled when you take it on and off your finger.
Finally, I have a thimble that really protects my finger and is so comfortable that I often forget it's on my finger. It’s true, more than once I left my workshop, forgetting to take it off.
Thimble pattern
Copy the drawing onto a separate sheet of paper and print. The size is given in inches (1 inch is 2.54 cm)
How to make a thimble to your size
All you need for this quick project are a few scraps of leather, a piece of hard plastic (cut from a milk carton, for example), some glue and a random short piece of elastic cord.
To make a pattern
1. Trace the full-length pattern and refine the fit on the middle finger of your dominant hand, adding or decreasing along the top seam.
2. Use a coin as a template to cut out two leather circles for the tip. Trim the edge 1/8 inch (3 mm) for the plastic circle.
To stitch together
1. Glue the top seam together along the edge. Let dry, then hand or machine stitch using a 1/6 inch (4 mm) seam allowance.
2. Place the plastic tip between two leather circles. Glue the leather circles together at the edges (“sandwich”).
3. Glue your round “sandwich” to the tip of the thimble tail, lining up any mismatched edges. Let dry, then hand stitch in the round twice (use a leather needle) with a 1/6″ (4mm) seam allowance. Only stitch leather layers, not plastic. Achieve uniformity.
4. Place the thimble on your finger. Mark 2 1/4 inch (6 mm) dots on each side of the seam and just after the first top knuckle. Remove the thimble and cut small holes at each point.
5. Cut a small strip of leather measuring 1" (2.54 cm) x 3/16" (5 mm) for the belt. Push through the holes, pull, overlap and glue the ends together.
6. As an alternative, you can use an elastic belt. Cut 2 additional holes 1/2″ below the top holes. Insert a 2-inch piece of elastic cord through the holes, stretch, overlap, and glue the ends together. remove excess cord. Close the cord by attaching a small piece of leather, gluing it on top in the shape of the cord.
7. Glue a piece of soft cotton or leather inside the tail area. Trim the remaining fabric around the edge of the thimble's tail.
Samantha Brenneman makes thimbles and sews in Bevin, Illinois, USA.
Photos: Sloane Howard, drawings: Christine Erickson.