To make something interesting with their own hands, DIY enthusiasts implement non-standard ideas using improvised means. A use was also found for the ordinary bulb of a burnt-out incandescent lamp. But fluorescent and LED ones are not suitable for these purposes; they are disassembled only for repairs.
In any case, it is important to know how to disassemble the light bulb, and then you can experiment with its further use.
We suggest you understand the intricacies of this process. The article describes in detail how to act correctly if there is a need to open and disassemble various types of lighting fixtures. In addition, we have prepared interesting homemade solutions from old incandescent light bulbs.
Old lamps are used to create vases and containers for spices, miniature aquariums and many other crafts.
If you decide to master this process, then you should start with an ordinary incandescent light bulb. Inside it does not have a filling that is hazardous to health in the form of additives from harmful substances. Therefore, disassembling it is not only simple, but also completely harmless to health.
Briefly about the device
To begin dismantling the insides of the lamp, you need to become familiar with its structure in general terms. The main element is the filament body, the ends of which hold the electrodes.
Additional rigidity is created by holders mounted on a glass support - a bead. The rod is connected to a leg, which includes electrodes, a rod, and a plate.
Lamp and its leg. The components of the structure are: bulb (1), filament body (2), additional stands (3), rod (4), electrodes (5), blade (6), intermediate leads (7), plate (8), rod (9 ), external terminals (10), terminals (11), base (12) (+)
All internal elements will have to be removed from the flask through its lower part.
How to disassemble
Here it is necessary to take into account some nuances, because You will have to work with glass. The material of the leg is very thin, while that of the base insulator is quite rough.
To prevent flying fragments and associated risks, you need to use a cardboard box as a workspace. Its bottom is covered with soft material.
Before starting the operation, you need to arm yourself with thin-nose pliers. With their help, it will be possible to dismantle the contact, firmly sealed at the neck of the flask.
The element is loosened and turned until the two wires going to the main part of the lamp - the filament body - break. Next, the released contact is removed.
The next task is to open the base insulation. This will require the same tool. Using thin-nose pliers, swing the light bulb leg and remove it complete with the plate, rod, electrodes, and filament body.
Having opened access to the internal cavity of the lamp, carefully clean it with a piece of textile. Without the insides of the light bulb, only the heat-resistant glass bulb remains.
How to use it depends on your imagination - it can become a container for spices, a tiny aquarium, a lampshade or a lamp.
For some crafts, a base will be superfluous. It is not difficult to remove since the connection is not very strong. You can simply keep it for a day in a mixture of hydrochloric acid with ammonium nitrate or in hydrofluoric acid. Which will dissolve the glue that attaches the base to the base of the flask.
With this option, it is important to thoroughly rinse the product in a soapy solution after the acid. And don’t forget to wear gloves to carry out all manipulations.
Another way is to unscrew the part at the point of contact with the glass, then remove the glue and remove the vessel. Sometimes it is enough to scratch the junction of the base and the bulb with a glass cutter to get rid of it.
Disassembling the lamp with socket
If the filament breaks, the ballast may still be operational. In this case, the flask is disposed of, and the working device is used as a spare part.
If there is a fuse in the control circuit, it may blow. The issue is resolved by installing a resistor with a resistance of several ohms in its place.
How to disassemble an LED lamp
First of all, it is necessary to check the voltage supply to the cartridge contacts. To do this, screw in a working lamp; if the light comes on, the previous device is faulty.
The reasons for the failure of an LED lamp can be very different - the diode is burned out or the board is not in order.
They often stop working due to condensation that has accumulated inside the housing. In any case, it is necessary to first disassemble the structure.
The components of an LED lamp are:
- shell;
- base;
- matrix with a package of LEDs;
- diffuser;
- driver.
The lamp bulb is not airtight because there are no gases in it. The shell can be made of either plastic or glass. The plastic light diffuser is located at the top.
The ones used are varied. The components of the package are groups of LEDs soldered onto PCB or aluminum boards.
Drivers in the form of individual blocks or built into the housing serve to transform the input voltage to a value most suitable for LEDs assembled in groups. The most popular power supply schemes are transformer type.
To make the inside accessible, you need to open the fastening clips that hold the diffuser dome. If it is attached to the housing with screws, they must be unscrewed.
There is another disassembly method used for devices made using sealant sizing. For implementation you will need a syringe with a needle, an awl, and a solvent. To detach the diffuser, you will need to remove the sealant that secures it to the retaining ring.
An awl is passed along the edge and the solvent with which the syringe is filled is injected into the groove. After 30 seconds, the diffuser is removed by twisting. The radiator is removed using a screwdriver, and the LED matrix is unsoldered.
A burnt-out LED can be easily identified visually. It reveals itself by having a black dot. As an option, to make the lamp work again, a jumper is placed at the edges of the unusable LED, but it is better to replace it with a new one.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Video of the disassembly process, where everything is clear without unnecessary explanation:
The process of disassembling and repairing an LED lamp:
Disassembling the incandescent light bulb is easy. You can make a lot of interesting things out of it, but you can’t reuse it for its intended purpose. Fluorescent and LED light bulbs can be disassembled to a certain point and repaired.
Do you have experience disassembling lamps? Or maybe you have made interesting objects from old lamps? Please share your skills with readers - leave comments and attach photos of your homemade products. The feedback form is located below.
Light bulbs are consumables that, depending on the quality of production and operating conditions, have a certain “lifetime”. This “life” ends the moment when, after turning on the lamp again, you are still standing in a dark or partially lit room. Sometimes you come across lamps that are so complex in design that replacing them becomes a whole undertaking. This is especially true for built-in LED and halogen devices with non-standard models.
In this article we will look at the types of sockets found in everyday life, as well as ways to remove various light bulbs from any lamp and replace them with new ones. Separately, it is worth considering the issue of replacing them in a suspended ceiling. We will also find out how to change a halogen lamp.
Types of socles
A socket is a thread or other type of connector with which a light bulb is attached to a socket or lamp. The base contains contacts that, when interacting with the contacts of the lamp, conduct current.
The following types of bases are found in everyday life:
- E27 is the most common type; it is screwed into almost all chandeliers and floor lamps. It has the form of a thread with a diameter of 27 mm.
- E14 is the second most common base, thread with a diameter of 14 mm. It is available in low-power models that are installed in floor lamps, bedside lamps, and wall decorative lamps.
- The picture below in the second row shows the bases of tubular fluorescent lamps found in long ceiling and wall lamps.
- In the third row you can see the bases of the light bulbs that are built into the ceiling lamp.
How to unscrew a light bulb with your own hands
Each type of fixture and lamp has its own replacement instructions, but the first steps are the same for all cases.
- Completely de-energize your home at the panel or meter. In this case, there is no need to worry about electric shock.
- To access tall chandeliers and spot lights on a suspended ceiling, find a stable stepladder or stool. When working with such fragile parts, you need to be sure of where you stand.
- We carefully stand on a stool (or remain on the floor if the light bulb can be reached without effort), working only with the switch off with dry hands.
- Further steps to replace lamps depend on their type. If these are threaded sockets, then with one hand we grasp the light bulb itself (attention, it may still be hot), and with the other we hold on to the socket. Using gentle movements, we begin to unscrew it counterclockwise. Do not squeeze the glass too hard - remember, it is thin. When unscrewing a halogen lamp, remove it only with clean and soft gloves.
- If the light bulb cannot be unscrewed, you need to try to loosen it, then it will give in.
- If it burns out because it burst, then unscrewing it will be quite difficult. How to change a broken light bulb in this case? There is nothing to grab hold of - only sharp shards of glass stick out from the cartridge. A regular potato will help you. Cut it in half, carefully place the cut on the protruding fragments, and then unscrew the remaining light bulb with gentle counterclockwise movements.
- Even if the fragments do not stick out, but the base is firmly seated in the socket, it can be unscrewed using an ordinary plastic bottle. Using a match or lighter, melt the neck of the bottle a little, and while the plastic is hot, insert it into the empty base. Wait a minute for the plastic inside to harden, then unscrew the rest. The E14 base can be removed using a wine stopper. This method is not suitable for replacing light bulbs in a suspended ceiling lamp.
- Long tubular fluorescent lamps have their own fixation method. To remove, grasp the body of the lamp with both hands and carefully rotate it along its axis in any direction. During the process, several characteristic clicks will be heard along the edges of the lamp - this is how it should be, these are the fasteners clicking. After turning approximately 45 degrees, the lamp contacts will appear along the edges of the mount, and it can be easily pulled out of the grooves.
- How to change a light bulb in a spotlight? With built-in lamps the situation is a little more complicated. The lamps are secured in them using special springs made of hardened metal. To interact with them, there are special levers on the body; by pressing them, you will release the light bulb from the mount, and it can be removed. The main thing is not to overdo it with pressing the levers - they are quite fragile, they are very easy to break. In addition, if you suddenly release the light bulb, it may slip out and fall to the floor, which will lead to the formation of a large number of dangerous fragments and damage to the floor covering - not the best way to replace a lamp in a suspended ceiling.
- If you can't find any levers, but you can grasp the device with your hands, try gently turning it 90 degrees counterclockwise. How to remove a spotlight? There are fasteners that, after turning the light bulb and making a quiet click, allow you to remove it. After removing the lamp, set it aside in a safe place.
How to install a new one
Installation is usually the exact opposite of removal in technology.
- Threaded versions are screwed into the cartridge clockwise until it reaches a sensitive stop. Do not screw too hard to avoid breaking the light bulb or cracking the socket. Halogen lamps are also replaced.
- Long lamps are inserted with contacts into the slots from which the old lamp was removed. After this, the lamp is rotated by hand along its axis 90 degrees until a characteristic click is heard.
- Light bulbs in ceiling and other built-in lamps are usually simply inserted back until the spring clicks; you do not need to press any levers for this. Using similar mechanisms, spotlights are replaced.
- After installation, make sure that the lamp is securely fastened in its socket and does not dangle in it; this is especially important when replacing it in a spotlight.
- Try turning on an LED or other installed lamp - be sure to turn away from it, and give the command “light” to everyone present so that they do not look either. Take care of your eyes when turning on new lamps - there have been cases when they, defective, burst the first time they were turned on.
Conclusion
Despite the abundance of models that can be found in everyday life, you can replace them all with your own hands. The main thing is to follow safety precautions both when removing the old lamp and when screwing it in. Be careful not to squeeze the glass or tamper with the delicate and fragile parts of lamps and halogen lamps - the damage caused may be hazardous to your health.
If an old Soviet lamp with fluorescent fluorescent lamps such as LB-40, LB-80 is out of order, or you are tired of changing the starter in it, recycling the lamps themselves (and you can’t just throw them in the trash for a long time), then you can easily convert to LED.
The most important thing is that fluorescent and LED lamps have the same bases - G13. Unlike other types of pin contacts, no modifications to the housing are required. 
- G- means pins are used as contacts
- 13 is the distance in millimeters between these pins
Benefits of remodeling
In this case you will receive:
- greater illumination
- lower losses (almost half of the useful energy in fluorescent lamps can be lost in the choke)
- absence of vibration and unpleasant rattling sound from the ballast throttle
True, more modern models already use electronic ballast. They have increased efficiency (90% or more), noise has disappeared, but energy consumption and luminous flux have remained at the same level. 
For example, new models of such LPO and LVO are often used for Armstrong ceilings. Here is a rough comparison of their effectiveness: 
Another advantage of LEDs is that there are models designed for supply voltages from 85V to 265V. For fluorescent you need 220V or close to it. 
For such LEDs, even if your network voltage is low or too high, they will start and shine without any complaints.
Luminaires with electromagnetic ballasts
What should you pay attention to when converting simple fluorescent lamps to LED lamps? First of all, its design. 
If you have a simple old Soviet-style lamp with starters and an ordinary (not electronic ballast) choke, then in fact there is no need to modernize anything. 
Simply pull out the starter, select a new LED lamp to fit the overall size, insert it into the housing and enjoy brighter and more economical lighting.
If the starter is not removed from the circuit, then when replacing the LB lamp with an LED one, a short circuit can be created.
It is not necessary to dismantle the throttle. For an LED, the current consumption will be in the range of 0.12A-0.16A, and for a ballast, the operating current in such old lamps is 0.37A-0.43A, depending on the power. In fact, it will act as an ordinary jumper. 
After all the rework, you still have the same lamp. There is no need to change the fixture on the ceiling, and you no longer have to dispose of burnt lamps and look for special containers for them. 
Such lamps do not require separate drivers and power supplies, since they are already built-in inside the housing. 
The main thing is to remember the main feature - for LEDs, two pin contacts on the base are rigidly connected to each other.
And with fluorescent they are connected by a filament. When it gets hot, mercury vapor ignites. 
In models with electronic ballasts, a filament is not used and the gap between the contacts is pierced by a high voltage pulse.
The most common sizes of such tubes are:
- 300mm (used in table lamps)
- 900mm and 1200mm
The longer they are, the brighter the glow. 
Conversion of a lamp with electronic ballast
If you have a more modern model, without a starter, with an electronic ballast throttle (electronic ballast), then you will have to tinker a little with changing the circuit. 
What is inside the lamp before alteration:
- throttle
- wires
- contact blocks-cartridges on the sides of the case
The throttle is what will need to be thrown out first. Without it, the entire structure will significantly lose weight. Unscrew the mounting screws or drill out the rivets, depending on the fastener.
Then disconnect the power wires. To do this, you may need a screwdriver with a narrow blade. 
You can use these wirings and just eat them with pliers.
The connection diagram for the two lamps is different; with the LED lamp everything is much simpler: 
The main task that needs to be solved is to supply 220V to different ends of the lamp. That is, the phase is on one terminal (for example, the right one), and the zero is on the other (left). 
It was said earlier that an LED lamp has both pin contacts inside the base, connected to each other by a jumper. Therefore, here it is impossible, as in a fluorescent one, to supply 220V between them.
To verify this, use a multimeter. Set it to resistance measurement mode, and touch the two terminals with the measuring probes and take measurements. 
The display should display the same values as when the probes are connected to each other, i.e. zero or close to it (taking into account the resistance of the probes themselves).
A fluorescent lamp, between two terminals on each side, has a resistance filament, which, after applying 220V voltage through it, heats up and “starts” the lamp. 
- without dismantling cartridges
- with dismantling and installing jumpers through their contacts
Without dismantling
The easiest way is without dismantling, but you will have to buy a couple of Wago clamps.
In general, bite out all the wires suitable for the cartridge at a distance of 10-15mm or more. Next, insert them into the same Vago clamp. 
Do the same with the other side of the lamp. If the wago terminal block does not have enough contacts, you will have to use 2 pieces. 
After this, all that remains is to feed a phase into the clamp on one side and zero on the other.
No Vago, just twist the wires under the PPE cap. With this method, you do not need to deal with the existing circuit, jumpers, get into the cartridge contacts, etc.
With dismantling the cartridges and installing jumpers
The other method is more scrupulous, but does not require any extra costs.
Remove the side covers from the lamp. This must be done carefully, because... In modern products, the latches are made of brittle and breakable plastic. 
After which, you can dismantle the contact cartridges. Inside them there are two contacts that are isolated from each other.
Such cartridges can be of several varieties: 
All of them are equally suitable for lamps with G13 socket. There may be springs inside them. 
First of all, they are needed not for better contact, but to ensure that the lamp does not fall out of it. Plus, due to the springs, there is some compensation for the length. Since it is not always possible to produce identical lamps with millimeter accuracy.
Each cartridge has two power cables. Most often, they are attached by snapping into special contacts without screws. 
You turn them clockwise and counterclockwise, and with some force, pull one of them out. 
As mentioned above, the contacts inside the connector are isolated from each other. And by dismantling one of the wiring, you actually leave only one contact socket. 
All current will now flow through the other contact. Of course, everything will work on one, but if you are making a lamp for yourself, it makes sense to improve the design a little by installing a jumper.
Thanks to it, you don’t have to make contact by turning the LED lamp from side to side. The double connector ensures a reliable connection. 
The jumper can be made from the extra power wires of the lamp itself, which you will definitely have left over as a result of the rework.
Using a tester, you check that after installing the jumper, there is a circuit between the previously isolated connectors. Do the same with the second plug-in contact on the other side of the lamp.
The main thing is to make sure that the remaining power wire is no longer phase, but zero. You bite off the rest.
Fluorescent lamps with two, four or more lamps
If you have a two-lamp lamp, it is best to supply voltage to each connector with separate conductors. 
When installing a simple jumper between two or more cartridges, the design will have a significant drawback.
The second lamp will light only if the first one is installed in its place. Remove it, and the other one will go out immediately. 
The supply conductors should converge on the terminal block, where you will have the following connected in turn: 
Thanks to the miniature size of LEDs, engineers have learned to create lamps of a wide variety of designs, including repeating the shape of fluorescent and halogen lamps. Tubular fluorescent lamps of the T8 type with a G13 socket were no exception. They can be easily replaced with a similar-shaped tube with LEDs, significantly improving the optical-energy characteristics of the existing lamp.
Is it necessary to change fluorescent light bulbs to LED lamps?
Today we can confidently say that LED light bulbs of any form factor are superior to their fluorescent counterparts in almost all respects. Moreover, LED technologies continue to progress, which means that products based on them will be even more advanced in the future. To confirm the above, a comparative description of two types of tubular lamps is given below.
T8 fluorescent lamps:
- MTBF is about 2000 hours and depends on the number of starts, but not more than 2000 cycles;
- light spreads in all directions, which is why they need a reflector;
- gradual increase in brightness at the moment of switching on;
- the ballast (ballast) serves as a source of network interference;
- degradation of the protective layer with a decrease in luminous flux by 30%;
- The glass flask and the mercury vapor inside it require careful handling and disposal.
T8 LED lamps:
In addition, T8 LED lamps have twice the light output with equal energy consumption, are less likely to fail and have a manufacturer’s warranty. The ability to place different numbers of LEDs inside the bulb allows you to achieve an optimal level of illumination. This means that instead of a T8-G13-600 mm 18 W fluorescent lamp, you can install a 9, 18 or 24 W LED lamp of the same length.
The abbreviation T8 indicates the diameter of the glass tube (8/8 inch or 2.54 cm), and G13 is the type of cap indicating the pin spacing in mm.
Having weighed all the pros and cons, we can conclude that converting a fluorescent lamp to an LED light bulb is completely justified, both from a technical and economic point of view.
Connection diagrams
Before moving on to upgrading the lamp by replacing T8 fluorescent lamps with LED lamps, you first need to properly understand the circuits. All fluorescent lamps are connected in one of two ways:
In raster ceiling lamps, 4 fluorescent tubes are connected to 2 electronic ballasts, each of which provides operation of two lamps, or to a combined ballast, including 4 starters, 2 chokes and 1 capacitor.
The connection diagram for the T8 LED lamp does not contain any additional elements (Fig. 3). 
A stabilized power supply (driver) for LEDs is already built inside the case. Along with it, under a glass or plastic diffuser, there is a printed circuit board with LEDs, mounted on an aluminum radiator. The 220V supply voltage can be supplied to the driver through the pins of the base, either on one side (usually on Ukrainian-made products) or on both sides. In the first case, the pins located on the other side serve as fasteners. In the second case, 1 or 2 pins can be used on each side. Therefore, before modifying the lamp, you need to carefully study the connection diagram shown on the LED lamp body or in its documentation. The most common are T8 LED lamps with phase and neutral connections from different sides, so alteration of the lamp will be considered based on this option.
What needs to be changed?
By carefully looking at the diagrams, even an inexperienced electrician will understand how to connect an LED lamp instead of a fluorescent one. In a luminaire with ballasts, you need to perform the following steps:
- Turn off the circuit breaker and make sure there is no voltage.
- Remove the protective cover, gaining access to the circuit elements.
- Remove the capacitor, inductor, and starter from the electrical circuit.
- Separate the wires going to the cartridge terminals and connect them directly to the phase and neutral wires.
- The remaining wires can be removed or insulated.
- Insert a T8 G13 lamp with LEDs and perform a test run.
The contacts in the form of pins for connecting the T8 LED lamp are marked on its base with the symbols “L” and “N”.
Converting a fluorescent lamp with electronic ballast is even easier. To do this, just unsolder or cut with wire cutters the wires going to and from the ballast. Then connect the phase and neutral wires to the wires of the left and right sockets of the lamp. Insulate the connection point, insert an LED lamp and apply supply voltage.
It is much easier to install and connect a T8 LED lamp in Philips branded lamps. The Dutch company has made the task as simple as possible for its consumers. To install an LED lamp with a length of 600 mm, 900 mm, 1200 mm or 1500 mm, you will need to unscrew the starter and screw in the plug supplied in the kit in its place. In this case, there is no need to disassemble the lamp body and remove the choke.
When choosing a T8 G13 LED lamp, you should pay attention to the design of the base. It can be rotary or have a rigid connection to the body. Models with a rotating base are considered to be the most universal. They can be screwed into any converted light fixture, with either vertical or horizontal slots in the socket. And by adjusting the angle of the lamp, you can change the direction of the light flux.
It is not uncommon to find negative reviews on the Internet that the service life of T8 LED lamps is much less than stated. As a rule, such comments are left by people who bought a Chinese “no name” for the price of a fluorescent lamp. Naturally, the quality of the LEDs and drivers will not allow it to work even for one year.
Read also
At first glance, replacing lamps seems like a simple operation, but there are many features. Reasons for replacement:
- the old lamp is out of order;
- power needs to be changed;
- not satisfied with the type or design of the lamp;
- new organization of interior lighting.
Replacing the lamp yourself
In all these situations, the first thing you need to do is find new lamps.
Choice
First you need to determine what is best to install in the lamp. The simplest solution would be to replace the lamps with the same ones, since finding a new one is not difficult with all the variety of lamps: fluorescent (FL), incandescent, LED, halogen and others.
Most buyers take regular lamps of the same power, they are the cheapest and are always on sale. In the price range, LL are above them, and then LED. As the model becomes more complex, the cost increases.
What types of lamps are there?
The correct organization of diffuse, reflected and directional lighting allows you to control the shape of objects, zone areas and highlight the necessary objects in the premises.
Replacing faulty lamps
Failed lamps are replaced with new ones. Each type has its own characteristics.
Incandescent lamps
As lighting is used, its intensity is redistributed. In some places it is necessary to increase the power, and in another place it is necessary to reduce it. Therefore, they often take a slightly different light bulb. If practice shows that it is worse than it was, nothing will prevent you from returning to the previous option. For a medium-sized room, 100 W main lighting is sufficient.
In incandescent lamps, the bases are destroyed over time by exposure to high temperatures. Therefore, you should always have a spare cartridge at home.
First of all, to replace the light bulb you will need the following tools:
- chair or stepladder;
- tester, probe;
- new lamp;
- several pliers of different sizes, a screwdriver, a knife;
- gloves.
Unscrewing a faulty incandescent lamp
The wire to the light bulb is predominantly supplied through a single-pole switch. The phase must be passed through it so that there is no voltage on the cartridge when it is turned off. This is simply checked with an indicator screwdriver.
It often happens that sometimes you have to unscrew the light bulb, but the base remains in the socket. It can be removed using pliers. They should be available in several sizes and with insulated handles. A film should be placed under the lamp.
When replacing a lamp, the light must be turned off. It wouldn't hurt to turn off the machine either. You should check with an indicator the presence of voltage on the destroyed base. Not every owner remembers which position of the switch key corresponds to de-energizing the circuit.
Small pliers open inside the base, after which it is unscrewed. If it does not give in, you need to grab its edge with pliers and gradually loosen it until it moves. It’s even easier to unscrew the base along with half of the cartridge body, after which it will be much easier to remove it.
The new lamp is screwed into the socket clockwise. Here you cannot press hard on the glass body and apply a lot of torque so as not to damage it.
The functionality of the lamp is checked by applying voltage to it. If it does not light, it must be screwed in all the way or the contact tabs in the socket must be bent. When switching on, do not stand under the lamp due to the risk of explosion.
Luminescent
Replacing an LL with an E27 cartridge is no different from the previous ones. For one room, a power of 50 W will be enough. At the same time, the light of this type of lamp is soft and evenly diffused. They have built-in electronic ballasts with high frequency current and do not flash.
Tubular lamps are somewhat more difficult to replace if you do not know how to connect them. In addition, they are often mounted on the ceiling, and at high altitudes, working with them becomes difficult.
The room is de-energized, and the transparent diffuser is removed from the lamp. There are two pin contacts on each side of the tube. They fit tightly in sockets with clamps, and to release the lamp you need to turn it in one direction until it stops at 90 0, holding it on both sides.
Fluorescent lamp with diffuser
The new tube is installed perpendicular to the cartridges in the slot, and then turned 90 0 until it clicks. After it is fixed, you need to check the reliability of the fastening by slightly pulling towards yourself. Over time, the socket wears out and the lamp may fall out if not secured correctly.
After installation, the operation of the lamp is checked and the cap is installed in place. If the new lamp does not start, you need to check the functionality of the ballast elements.
The built-in LL for a suspended ceiling is replaced in a similar way, but a certain skill is required here, since there is little space left for its dismantling and installation.
Installing a fluorescent lamp in a built-in lamp
Built-in lamps have 4 lamps, but they are short and easier to work with. Having removed the outermost tube, access to the others will be easier if you remove them sequentially and install them in the reverse order.
Halogen and LED
In modern interiors, suspended ceilings with spot lighting are often used. To change a light bulb, it must be unlocked in the luminaire. First, the room is de-energized, and then the lamp clamp in the form of a spring ring is removed. Then you should unscrew the lamp and install a new one with similar characteristics in the vacant space. It is screwed in all the way and secured with a ring. At the same time, the parts are held so that they do not slip out of your hands.
Replacing a light bulb in a spotlight can be done by increasing the light intensity without increasing their power. To do this, purchase the same lamps with a spectrum closer to white. They are brighter than yellow ones with the same energy consumption.
Even lamps of the same type can have different appearances. It is advisable to use light sources from the same manufacturer and with the same power.
When replacing halogen and LED lamps (HL), they should not be touched with bare hands to protect them from rapid failure. If touching occurs accidentally, wipe the flask with a cotton swab moistened with alcohol.
If the problem is more serious than replacing the lamp, you need to know how to remove the ceiling light. The sequence of operations for removing it from the suspended ceiling is as follows:
- turn off the automatic voltage supply;
- take out the light bulb;
- pry off the decorative rim with a knife or screwdriver;
- Press the fastening latches to the body and remove it from the groove.
Reinstallation is done in reverse order.
Replacing the lamp with a different type
Incandescent lamps consume more energy and have a short lifespan. Now there is a fashion to replace them with energy-saving ones. The reason is lower energy consumption. But here it should be borne in mind that the electrical goods market is flooded with a large number of counterfeits, negating all the advantages of new models. Branded products are expensive, but counterfeit products are not cheap, although in the end they do not provide any advantages, including in terms of service life.
If you decide to replace an incandescent lamp with a halogen or LED, the easiest way is to purchase them with the same E27 or E14 sockets, and then install them in the old socket.
It will be more difficult with spotlights, since the entire lighting system will need to be changed. They are mounted on a suspended or plasterboard ceiling. You can hide all the wiring behind them. For a stretch ceiling, this is more difficult to do, since it will be visible through the transparent material.
The cheapest linear LLs use electromagnetic ballasts and ballasts. The disadvantages of the lamps are low efficiency, choke rattling and lamp blinking. Replacing them does not help, since they are not the cause. Replacing the equipment with electronic equipment (electronic ballasts) eliminates the above-mentioned disadvantages.
Another way to increase the efficiency of energy consumption is to replace the luminaires with LEDs, which are completely identical in appearance and have similar glow characteristics. The G13 base is the same as on fluorescent tubes. From the inside, adjacent SL pins are short-circuited with a copper conductor, and a voltage of 220 V is applied from opposite ends of the tube. Inside it there is a strip with a driver and soldered LEDs. All starting equipment is dismantled, significantly lightening the luminaire. In its place you can place another lamp.