All about cacti and how to care for them. Cacti at home. Main advantages of plastic pots

Caring for cacti. The necessary conditions. 3.93 /5 (78.57%) 14 votes

Cacti belong to autotrophic plants, that is, those that independently create the substances necessary for their growth from inorganic and organic compounds. For normal metabolism to occur in a cactus, it needs nutrient salts, water, carbon dioxide, air oxygen, as well as heat and light. For assimilation, or photosynthesis, along with carbon dioxide, the relationship between light and the intensity of illumination that affects the green plant is decisive. The productivity of photosynthesis and, therefore, growth depends on the presence of the remaining listed factors.

Caring for cacti. Light

Most cacti, as residents, are particularly demanding of light. Light is the main factor in cactus growth. During the growing season, it is especially important to take care of good lighting. Only during a strictly observed dry period - a period of rest with a corresponding decrease in temperature - can these plants be content with a small amount of light.

All pubescent, highly spiny cacti, as well as species with a developed waxy layer on the surface, require high illumination. During the winter dormant period, unpretentious species can be kept in dimly lit, cold rooms. Plants are kept dry, as in low light conditions, anything that may cause unwanted growth at this time should be avoided. Any new shoot can deform the plant and make it less decorative.

Green cereuses and species can safely tolerate very little lighting.

Plants weaned from light in the spring are sensitive to the bright rays of the sun, this easily leads to burns of the epidermis. That is why it is recommended to take the plants out into the fresh air on a cloudy day, or to place the plants first in a shaded place. And yet, in the first one or two weeks after removal, you need to protect cacti from direct sunlight, especially at midday, otherwise you can easily cause damage to the plants.

And young plants are especially sensitive in spring and summer to direct sunlight. They need light shade, which corresponds to the conditions of their natural habitats. After all, with the beginning of the rainy season, intensive growth of all other vegetation that accompanies cacti begins there. Under the cover of developing cereals, annual and perennial plants, as well as trees, germinating seeds and young seedlings of cacti find protection from the scorching rays of the sun. Uniform soil moisture and diffused light favor long-term growth.

Therefore, even in cultural conditions, crops and young plants on sunny days must be covered from the midday sun. Long-term shading is not recommended: morning sun, afternoon light, as well as full light on cloudy days will only benefit the plant. Prolonged growth with a lack of light leads to the formation of undesirable forms: an atypical appearance appears, plants become susceptible to diseases, as their tissues lose strength.

Light intensity, or more precisely, illuminance, is easily measured and can be expressed in numbers. The unit of illumination is lux (from the Latin for “light”). The optimal rate for photosynthesis in most cacti is slightly higher than 10,000 lux. When grown in artificial light, indicators from 5,000 to 15,000 lux are favorable. For artificial supplementary lighting, special lamps are used, selected taking into account the characteristics of the plants.

Caring for cacti. Air supply and circulation

Cacti are inhabitants of mountainous regions, steppes, deserts and semi-deserts, where there is a lot of fresh air and strong winds, as if they are accustomed to such conditions. Even species that grow as epiphytes in tropical forests choose more ventilated places in the branches and treetops. It is clear from this that even in cultural conditions, an influx of fresh air is required for the normal development of plants. Warm, stale air is unsuitable for long-term maintenance of these plants.

Only in the spring, when growth resumes after a long winter period of dormancy, can cacti be created with similar conditions for several weeks. But even then, very soon it will be necessary to take care of air circulation. Both in autumn and on warmer winter days, you must not forget about ventilation. After all, in a stuffy atmosphere, plants are much more easily exposed to various diseases.

On the contrary, to dry room air cacti are much less sensitive than other houseplants. In natural habitats, most species spend their days in conditions of significant dryness - sometimes the relative humidity is less than 10%! But still, at night, cacti often use the dew that falls during a sharp cold snap. Therefore, in cultural conditions, it is recommended to spray cacti early in the morning and in the evenings, using a sprayer with a very fine spray that produces almost a fog.

Temperature is an important factor in caring for cacti

The process of plant growth and morphogenesis is largely determined by light and temperature conditions. This effect will be optimal if both of these factors act on the plant in close interrelation.

The presence of favorable light and heat conditions, along with an adequate supply of water and nutrients, ensures good growth and leads to the formation of a healthy plant with a typical appearance for the species.

The temperature optimum is closely related to the light intensity. Significant illumination for the best photosynthesis requires a correspondingly higher temperature. In low light conditions, the temperature optimum decreases significantly.

The discrepancy between the indicators of these factors - for example, high temperature with little lighting - leads to unwanted elongation of plants. Cacti, at least during growth, are extremely thermophilic, but at night they still require a significant drop in temperature to 18-10 ° C. Therefore, it is absolutely necessary to ventilate greenhouses, hotbeds and other enclosed spaces well. Air circulation prevents the risk of overheating during the day and provides the necessary cooling at night.

Vigorous, rain-insensitive species respond especially well to summer outdoor maintenance. Direct weather influences such as sun, wind, temperature fluctuations, rain and night dew are favorable for strong, healthy growth. From mid-May to mid-late September, these plants can be outdoors. Sunny, warm summer months give, of course, much better results than cold and rainy ones.

In autumn, when the days become shorter and the air temperature drops, cacti gradually stop growing. The necessary preparation for the winter dormant period is achieved by reducing watering.

Lobivia jajoiana / Echinopsis marsoneri

The temperature favorable for the winter dry period for most cacti lies within 6-10 ° C. Some species are somewhat more demanding and need 12-18 ° C. Only certain species of such genera as Echinocereus, Echinopsis, and, prefer more low temperatures will be rewarded with lush spring flowering.

A decrease in temperature to several degrees below zero can be tolerated quite painlessly by some species of cacti originating from the higher latitudes of North America and the highlands of South America, if these plants are kept completely dry in a timely manner, that is, many weeks before the onset of frost. The squat ones (not without reason called “open ground prickly pears”), which also tolerate harsh winters in sunny places protected from rain in the garden, turned out to be insensitive.

Numerous cacti require a period of rest at low temperatures, as this stimulates flowering. This long-known observation explains why cacti overwintering in warm residential areas almost never bloom. But after 2-3 months of cold storage, high temperature and significant lighting will promote the development of flowers. Most cacti can be kept in winter at approximately the same temperature.

Epiphytic cacti, that is, those that live by settling on other plants, as a rule, require milder conditions. But this will be discussed in a special section.

Water mode

Water is the basic element of plant life. Their nutrition initially depends on the presence of a sufficiently large amount of soil moisture. Water dissolves nutrient salts in the soil and converts them into a form that can be absorbed by plants. Together with water, they are absorbed by the roots in the form of nutrient solutions and enter the flow of nutrients that flow through conducting vessels to the plant organs that use them. The formation of new cells and growth in general can ultimately only be carried out with the help of water.

Cacti and other succulents inhabit places that have been severely short of water for a long time. In order to survive drought for weeks and even months, and sometimes even years, they store moisture in the short time it is available in their storage tissue and then use it very sparingly thanks to very limited evaporation.

All react to high temperature and light not in the same way as other plants - by increasing transpiration, but, on the contrary, by reducing it, since their stomata (cells through which gas exchange occurs) are deeply immersed in the tissue and open only at night.

Long periods of drought lead to significant loss of water from plants. Indeed, some species painlessly tolerate a reduction in their volume to 60% of the norm. On the other hand, the body of a cactus can be 95% water.

These amazing creatures, which easily tolerate hunger and thirst, at favorable times must quite intensively use moisture and nutrients dissolved in it. They must not only refill their water-storing organs with moisture, but also ensure growth, which depends on the amount of water consumed and the nutrients dissolved in it.

Dew and fog also play an important role in the life of cacti. Many species can absorb this moisture directly through spines or hairs.

Most cacti go through a dormant period during our dark and cold winter. The exceptions are South American spherical cacti and various epiphytes, some of which even bloom in winter (Schlumbergera, various and related genera). These species are kept cold and dry when dormant. From late October to early November, watering is reduced to a minimum (with a few exceptions). Plants that must overwinter in warm living rooms or work areas should receive some water every 8-10 days.

Some general watering rules:

• should only be done when the soil or the substrate that replaces it begins to dry out. When in doubt, remember: a little too late is better than too early; It's better to underfill than overfill.
• To avoid growth delays, the substrate should not completely dry out for a long time during the growing season.
• There are no recipes that would indicate how often a particular plant should be watered. The cactus grower determines the correct watering time and the right amount of water through observations. If the plants are in the growth period, they must be watered constantly and thoroughly. It is better to water less often, but properly, than often and little by little.
• Stagnation of water must be avoided! Severe root damage is often the result of stagnant water, which occurs as a result of overwatering with little or no drainage. It is recommended to remove excess water from the pan after watering. It is best to use settled water at room temperature.

When is the best time to water?

Since we water the cacti from above, it is under no circumstances necessary to water during the hot afternoon hours in the summer, so as not to damage the plants by burns or sudden changes in temperature. After all, drops of water falling on a plant under strong lighting can act as a magnifying lens.

In the warm season, they water mainly at the end of the day or in the evening. Then the water will remain in the ground longer - it will not evaporate so quickly and will bring more benefits to the plant. This is quite consistent with the characteristics of plant growth in natural habitats in their homeland. As a rule, precipitation falls there in the afternoon or at night. This way the plants have a few hours to use the water before another day comes with drying winds and sun.

In well-ventilated greenhouses, conditions are approximately similar. On cold, rainy days, avoid watering completely. Cacti will still stunt their growth.

If we need to thoroughly water the cacti during the cold season, it is better to do it in the morning or afternoon, so that the earth dries out again before the evening. The same applies to spring time. In living rooms and office spaces you can water at any time.

Watering from below

Watering from below has its advantages. With this method, water enters the area where the root hairs are located, which absorb it. When watering from above, it does not always penetrate deep enough, especially if the earthen ball is very dry. Uniform and thorough moistening of a ball of earth in a pot or soil in a large container requires watering at significant intervals. In many species, the root collar is very sensitive to moisture.

Severely drooping cacti, as well as species with a cushion-shaped growth form, also cannot be watered from above. For all these cases, bottom watering is ideal. Potted plants grown individually are usually placed on one common tray or grouped together (depending on the size of the pots or water and nutrient needs) in plastic boxes. It is not recommended to use zinc containers - their secretions can have a bad effect on plants.

In greenhouses - on racks and hanging shelves - small areas, on which the cacti are located, can be separated from each other using plastic film. In no case should large and small pots be placed together, or plants with different requirements for environmental conditions. Shelves planted with cacti or plantings in the ground of a greenhouse can also be watered using the bottom watering method, but you need to pay attention to the fact that the ground surface should be flat, without changes in height. Good drainage of coarse gravel, lavalite, brick chips, crushed pumice or similar material can help here, the use of which will ensure even distribution of the water or nutrient solution. Water thus gradually penetrates into the root system.

You can also completely abandon the use of traditional soil by planting plants directly in one of the mineral substrates listed below. Then the supply of water and minerals will be carried out, as in hydroponics, using special nutrient solutions.

For sowing and growing seedlings, the condition of which is very dependent on uniform soil moisture, the method of flooding, or watering from below, is the most reliable. It is best to use exclusively mineral fine-grained substrates. Before use, the substrate is washed well to remove small silt particles and disinfected with steam or boiling water.

However, when using this method of irrigation, the danger of stagnant moisture cannot be underestimated. Any water remaining on the tray that has not been absorbed after 30 minutes will be wasted. It needs to be removed or taken away.

If this is not done, the roots seem to suffocate without access to air and rot, the earth becomes waterlogged and acidified. Therefore, it is necessary to learn from experience to give cacti the right amount of water. Flooding occurs every one to two weeks during the growing season. The water should not be cold.

Fogging spray

Fogging spraying (as a weak semblance of the conditions in which cacti grow in their homeland and receive moisture in the form of night dew) is loved by most types of cacti in the summer. Spraying plants with a fine mist is carried out only on warm days, early in the morning and in the evening. On cold rainy days and, of course, in winter, any moisture should be avoided to avoid causing fungal and other diseases.

Plants that are in the fresh air do not need to be sprayed, because they already find themselves in conditions of high air humidity at night. And some cacti are able to absorb moisture from dew and fog through their spines or hairs.

In conditions of stuffy, heavy pre-storm air, when cacti (this happens in the summer) find themselves in conditions of high humidity, temperature and light, all their life processes are activated. To create a similar climate in the greenhouse, the paths are often sprayed and moistened.

At the beginning of the growth period (March-April), it is very useful to spray cacti with warm water (30-50 ° C). With real watering, you need to be very careful at first and water little by little, since fine root hairs die off in significant numbers as a result of prolonged dryness. It takes a lot of light, heat and moisture for them to form again. Under favorable conditions, this occurs within a few days. Cacti that are heavily covered with a waxy coating, for example Stenocereus (Hertrichocereus) beneckei, are better not to spray at all, since their waxy coating is easily damaged by drops of water.

Cactus care and nutrients

In the presence of basic growth factors, cacti exhibit significant nutrient requirements. They receive them in the form of supplements. In this case, the correctly selected composition of the fertilizer mixture is extremely important. The time of fertilizing and its quantity are also decisive. Using special commercially available fertilizers for cacti, which are also suitable for many other succulents, will help avoid mistakes when feeding.

Obtained as a result of long-term observations and experiments, they contain a complete set of macro- and microelements necessary for succulents, meeting all their needs. When using other fertilizers, it is necessary to know exactly the features of their action. Plant nutrition is associated with both basic, that is, macroelements, and microelements.

Macronutrients:

Carbon (C), hydrogen (H), oxygen (O), nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), sulfur (S), potassium (K), magnesium (Mg), calcium (Ca) and iron (Fe).

Microelements:

Boron (B), manganese (Mn), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), molybdenum (Mo), sodium (Na), aluminum (A1), silicon (Si) and chlorine (C1).
With the exception of oxygen, nutrients are not perceived as individual elements, but as chemical compounds. Due to complex chemical processes, the uptake of nutrients by roots depends on good air access to the soil. Reduced oxygen content in the soil causes plants to starve, regardless of the availability of nutrients in the soil. This is why it is so important to constantly loosen the surface of the soil in pots and remove the film of algae that prevents air from penetrating into the soil.

Influence of individual elements

Nitrogen

necessary for the construction of various proteins. It promotes the growth of shoots and leaves and the formation of organic matter.
Excess nitrogen leads to undesirable phenomena: loose tissue structure, weakness of cell walls. As a result, susceptibility to disease increases, natural compact growth is lost, and the ability to flower is weakened.

At the beginning of the growth period, the plant naturally requires a moderate amount of nitrogen. After all, the areas of natural growth of succulents are poor in nitrogenous substances, but with the beginning of the rainy season, and with it growth, plants still, as a rule, find some amount of these substances in the soil and use them. Nitrogen salts are easily washed out of the soil, as a result of which their concentration changes during the growing season. This must be taken into account and, accordingly, nitrogen must be added at the beginning of growth, but in moderation.

By the middle and end of the growing season, the importance of nitrogen seems to recede into the background, giving way to the increasing role of potassium and phosphorus. Only those growing in nature in places with at least a slight accumulation of humus have an increased need for nitrogen.

Phosphorus

accepted by plants in the form of phosphates. It is necessary for the production of healthy plants, the formation of flowers, fruits and seeds, and promotes the formation of adventitious roots in cuttings.

Potassium

ensures the strength of plant tissues and affects resistance to disease and drought. Potassium and phosphoric acid are of great importance for the normal development of plants. Their role in plant nutrition is more important than nitrogen.

Calcium

to regulate soil structure and nutrition. But its content in the soil should not exceed a certain level: excess calcium alkalizes the soil, binds iron compounds and makes them inaccessible to the plant, thereby causing chlorosis. Calcium increases soil acidity (pH). Most cacti suffer from high pH (their roots die, the plants wither, and sometimes the spines seem to split due to excess calcium). In case of calcium deficiency, it is recommended to add gypsum to the soil.

Magnesium

found in green chlorophyll grains of the plant and promotes their absorption of phosphorus.

Iron

participates in the formation of chlorophyll and plays a significant role in all other life processes. Lack of iron leads to chlorosis, but it is only needed in small quantities.

Sulfur

perceived in the form of sulfates and in this form is found in many fertilizers, for example in superphosphate, which is used as a phosphorus fertilizer and to soften (acidify) irrigation water. Many cacti grow in sulfate-rich soil (gypsum).

Microelements are needed in extremely small doses, and the amount available in the soil is usually sufficient.

Sodium and chlorine

are important for plants living on sea coasts or in salt marshes. Numerous cacti living in these conditions, as a rule, still do not show special requirements for the salinity of the substrate under cultural conditions.

How and when to feed?

Liquid fertilizers are used based on the following rules:

• Fertilize exclusively during growth.
• Use only those preparations that, in composition and effect, correspond to the characteristics of certain plants.
• Fertilize only healthy plants. It is better to transplant diseased specimens into a substrate poor in nutrients, which will promote the formation of new roots.
• Remember that different kinds cacti have different nutrient requirements: some need higher concentrations, others weaker ones.
• To avoid burning the roots, water the soil well before applying fertilizer.
• Use nutrient solutions strictly in the prescribed concentration. It fluctuates between 0.5-2%, that is, 0.5-2 g/l of water. It is preferable to use weaker concentrations, but more often.
• Never feed during hot afternoon hours! Cloudy days that are not too cold and damp are more favorable. If fertilizing is applied when watering from below, then this can be done at any time of the day. Not every fancier is interested in the rapid growth of his pets; he would rather prefer to collect a large number of small specimens in the limited area that he has. Therefore, it will be very moderate in watering and fertilizers. For the most part, cacti are demanding plants: during the growth period, under favorable climatic conditions, they should be fed every 8-10 days. Towards the end of the growing season, the intervals between feedings increase. Epiphytic cacti should from time to time receive feeding of a slightly different composition (with a higher nitrogen content) than highly succulent species.
• After transplantation, start fertilizing only when the newly formed roots sufficiently penetrate the substrate. The strong development of roots is, as it were, a consequence of the search for food. And only when the roots are well developed will the plant be able to absorb fertilizers and use them for further growth.

Substrates for growing cacti

, serves as its habitat. It is located in it and receives water and nutrients from it. Any substrate that has certain physical properties can meet this goal. The best example is the widespread last years hydroponics - growing plants without soil using nutrient solutions.

Cacti for the most part are inhabitants of mineral weathered soils poor in humus or completely devoid of it, which are highly neutral so that chemical reactions that harm the plant do not take place in it. If necessary, you can reduce the pH value of pumice, volcanic slag or broken brick in the simplest way - using phosphorus fertilizer (superphosphate) or watering with water with the addition of a few drops of a suitable acid.

The substrates used have a granular structure - in the form of lumps or grains 2-16 mm in diameter. Silty clay particles must be removed by washing through a sieve. The coarse-grained structure guarantees optimal air permeability, which is necessary for the development and normal functioning of roots - for all plants in general and for cacti in particular. Indeed, in natural habitats they also grow on well-permeable soils.

Artificial substrates have one important advantage over soil mixtures: dangerous root pests - cactus root bugs and other soil pests - develop in them much worse than in the ground, and plants protected from this danger feel much better. But despite this, growing plants in garden soil mixtures is still practiced.

Cultivated soil is a mixture of several basic components that are combined in such a way as to satisfy all the requirements of plants.

Acidity index

Soil reaction, or soil acidity, is critical for plants. Acidity is determined by the number of hydrogen ions in the soil solution and is measured by pH values ​​from 1 to 14. In gardening practice, we deal with pH values ​​from approximately 3.5 to 8.5: pH 3.5-4 - highly acidic soils, pH 4.1 -4.5 - very acidic, pH 4.6-5.3 - acidic, pH 5.4-6.3 - slightly acidic, pH 6.4-7.3 - neutral, pH 7.4-8 - slightly alkaline, pH 8.1-8.5 is alkaline. A favorable soil acidity indicator for most cacti lies within the pH range of 5.5-6.9. The lower value (5.5) is vital for species that love humus (for example, epiphytes), as well as for species that live naturally on acidic mineral soils (for example, rebutia, lobivia and many others). Other species tolerate neutral to slightly alkaline soils.

It has been reliably proven that plant damage is more likely to occur when the pH is too high than when the pH is too low. For epiphytes, the upper limit lies somewhere around pH 7.2. , most cereus and many other cacti at elevated pH also begin to wither and die from chlorosis. In Cereus plants, drying occurs from the top down, the roots are destroyed - the plant dies.

Plants that are kept in pick boxes or small pots for a long time - about a year - often begin to get sick, despite a good supply of water and nutrients. They become yellowish in color and eventually stop growing. At the same time, the surface of the earth becomes calcified - covered with a crust of salts, and a coating of algae often appears. If the plant is taken out of the ground and the roots are examined, it turns out that they are very poorly developed. Later they die off and the plant dies. All this, without a doubt, is a consequence of too high soil pH.

The fact is that evaporating irrigation water over time leaves a strong coating of lime and salts on the surface of the earth and on the walls of the pot. This leads to crusting of the ground and also to heavy algae growth. Alkalinization gradually affects deeper layers of soil in the pot. Since the poisoning of the substrate occurs from top to bottom, young specimens with a prostrate root system suffer earlier than large specimens.

Plant damage manifests itself in different ways. First of all, crust and algae on the surface of the earth impede the penetration of air into the soil, and the roots cease to receive the oxygen necessary for the absorption of nutrients. In addition, excess calcium binds iron, which plays a critical role in the formation of chlorophyll. This leads to chlorosis, which is expressed as yellowing of the plants. Often called “acidification” of the soil in everyday life is actually nothing more than alkalization.

The situations described above must be eliminated. From time to time it is necessary to determine the pH of the soil and irrigation water and adjust it. Where alkalization has occurred, acidified water (pH 4-5) must be used for irrigation until a favorable indicator is achieved. If damage to plants has already occurred, they should be immediately transplanted into a suitable substrate. Instances with damaged roots are transplanted into a substrate poor in nutrients in order to first cause increased root formation. Where calcium is needed, it is better to add it not in carbonate form (like calcium carbonate), but in sulfate form (calcium sulfate, or gypsum).

For professional gardeners and hobbyists, various, fairly simple devices have been developed for determining pH, as well as for determining the main nutrient salts contained in the soil. There are also electrical devices for these purposes. The danger of plant damage due to increased salt content can be a serious cause of plant depression.

There are no generally accepted recipes for which soil is best to take. In any case, any mixture for cacti should be water- and breathable and not contain a lot of humus. As a rule, young plants receive a light, nutrient-poor substrate. A special mixture is prepared for sowing. Some species require a high humus content, others require clay or other mineral substrate. Epiphytic cacti are an exception here too: for them, who love humus, mineral materials are generally unsuitable. But they are very good for hydroponics.

Dishes for cacti

Currently, for cactus lovers there is a wide selection of different dishes made from a variety of materials. Modern artificial materials have almost completely replaced the previously used wooden boxes, and often clay or ethernite vessels. Nowadays, as a rule, pots or bowls made of hard plastic or styrofoam are used for sowing.

For small amateur collections, special plastic containers (mini-greenhouses) have been developed, consisting of a lower shockproof part and a transparent cap on top. Further development and improvement is a miniature greenhouse consisting of three parts.

To ensure the required soil temperature for plants, find a place on a warm window sill or, what is more reliable, use a special electric thermostatic heating cable, which can be laid under the window sill. Most often, pots, bowls and other utensils made of shockproof polystyrene or polyethylene are used. To save space, rectangular pots are especially convenient.

Are the pots clay or plastic?

The good old clay pots are still widely used today, in the age of plastics, despite their higher price. For a long time they were considered the most suitable dishes for cacti. Their walls are permeable to water and air, and the roots receive enough oxygen they need, and the danger of waterlogging the soil is negligible.

In the humid warm climate of greenhouses and anywhere where pots can be immersed in a substrate that is evenly moistened and retains moisture for a long time, for example, peat, of course, you should give preference to clay pots. And plants sensitive to dampness are often cultivated in gardening in clay pots. But since clay pots with cacti are often placed just like that, without immersion in the substrate, you should pay attention to some facts.

Clay pots evaporate some of the water through the porous walls. Loss of water requires more frequent watering, which can lead to alkalization of the soil if unsuitable hard water is used. Since evaporating water rushes towards the walls, nutrient salts end up at or on the walls and often even crystallize on the outside of the pot. Following them, roots rush in, entwining the inner surface of the pot with a dense network of thin roots. This is where the danger arises: any disturbance of external conditions, be it a drop in temperature or excessive heat, strong sunlight and drying out of the walls - all this can quickly lead to the death of these delicate thin roots. In addition, when transplanting, these main absorptive roots are damaged or destroyed.

During growth, plants need even soil moisture. It is during this period, which falls in our summer months, that many plants in pots suffer from drying out, more so in small pots than in large ones. This leads to growth stagnation. Clay pots are recommended to be used only where their porosity benefits the plants.

For example, they can be recommended for growing small-sized succulents that are sensitive to excess moisture and prefer slight indirect moisture. In this case, the pots must be constantly immersed in the substrate - peat, sand, a mixture of peat and sand, crushed pumice, volcanic slag, etc. In this case, watering is not carried out in the pots, but in the substrate between them. Traditional pots are also preferable when the plants in them are combined into a picturesque group, for example, in open ground or on a windowsill in a box, etc. So that the appearance of the pots does not spoil the composition, they are immersed in a substrate where the earthen lump will not suffer from any damage. drying out, nor from waterlogging. Of course, in all cases care must be taken to ensure good drainage. There are many benefits to using plastic pots, particularly for cacti and other succulents that love sunny places and dry air.

The main advantages of plastic pots:

• No evaporation through the walls and, as a result, less water consumption.
• The best development of roots is evenly throughout the earthen coma.
• Watering less often means less labor costs, saving water, and eliminating the risk of lime or salt buildup.
• Less weight of pots, ease of movement of plants.

When using quadrangular pots, optimal use of space is achieved. Watering plants in plastic pots should be more careful, as in this case it is easy to pour more water than necessary. If the collection contains plants in both clay and plastic pots, they should be placed separately. Typically, plants in plastic pots use about 1/3 of the water that plants in clay pots need. Therefore, when watering, you need to develop a certain habit. Every serious hobbyist does this without much difficulty. For epiphytic cacti and hanging plants, so-called orchid baskets of different sizes are suitable.

Hydroculture

For several years now, hydroculture has been the favorite and preferred method for the simplified maintenance of cacti in residential and office premises, in state rooms and lobbies, shops, etc. With this method, there are almost no problems associated with the risk of improper watering, fertilizing, replanting, which often arise in ordinary, land-based culture.

However, the well-being of cacti here also depends on factors such as light, air and heat. And with hydroculture, it is necessary to protect plants from drafts. To avoid hypothermia, the room temperature should be at least 18° C, slightly lower at night. Only during the winter dry period are low temperatures acceptable for certain species. Hydroculture is recommended for decorative leafy and beautifully flowering plants, orchids, cacti and some other succulents that live indoors for a long time.

Hydroculture refers to the maintenance of plants without soil in a sterile mineral substrate in nutrient solutions of low concentration. This method is based on the idea that a plant lives and develops not at the expense of the soil in which it is located, but at the expense of nutrients dissolved in the soil, which the roots absorb along with water.

The supply of water and nutrients is very simple in hydroculture. Modern long-acting preparations can supply plants with all the substances necessary for growth for 6 months. The dosage of nutrients preferred by plants is self-regulated due to ion exchange between the nutrient solution, on the one hand, and root secretions (hydrogen, carbon dioxide), on the other. The danger of overfeeding is eliminated here. Besides tap water, containing chlorine and lime, is neutralized and becomes harmless to plants. You just need to use fairly hard water.

In Germany, the long-acting drug Lewatit (Lewatit HD 5) is used, which is replaced every six months; the rest of the time, you only need to add water to replenish its consumption as a result of consumption by the plant and evaporation from the surface of the vessel. For the most part, the water supply lasts for many weeks, so you can safely leave the break, leaving the plants unattended. Thanks to a special indicator in the vessel, you can always easily determine the water level.

Once a year, the water must be completely changed to avoid the accumulation of root secretions, which can inhibit growth. In cacti, draining the used nutrient solution can cause the plants to go into a dormant state.

When using a complete fertilizer without ion exchange, the nutrient solution must be completely renewed after 4-8 weeks, even when using soft water. Otherwise, there is a danger of an excess of salts in the hydraulic vessel that is harmful to plants.

Substrates for hydroponics

Clay granules “bleton” or “lacaton”, as well as expanded clay used in construction, have proven themselves to be the best filler for hydroponic vessels. It is porous and therefore lightweight, dust-free, durable and, thanks to its light brown color, very attractive. For our purposes, a bleton measuring 5-20 mm in diameter is used. If bleton is not available, you can use crushed pumice, broken brick, basalt sand or other mineral substrate. Before use, the material must be cleaned by washing to remove impurities of fine silty particles.

Hydro vessels

Special vessels for hydroculture are made in many models from various artificial substances and ceramics. There are vessels of different sizes for individual plants and large containers for decorative compositions. Large containers are often equipped with a plant holder (in the form of a stick), which is attached to a special plate at the bottom of the container. Hydroponic pots consist of an outer vessel and an inner lattice liner or liner with numerous holes.

Each vessel, regardless of its size, has a solution level indicator. Mostly this is a viewing window with a scale.

Preparing cacus for hydroculture

It is preferable to cultivate plants on an artificial substrate from the very beginning of their existence. Seedlings or cuttings develop well on crushed pumice, perlite, a mixture of hygromul and stiromul. It is better to sow in flat vessels filled with crushed, fine-grained, well-washed pumice.

But larger specimens that have not yet fully grown can be transferred from the ground to hydroculture. This is best done during the growing period. A very important step for this is preparing the roots. They are thoroughly washed in warm water to remove all particles of earth. If the water no longer becomes cloudy when washed, it means the roots have been thoroughly cleaned. Damaged roots are removed with a sharp knife.

Attention: if even the smallest particles of humus get into the substrate, they can become a source of disease!

Planting cacti in hydraulic vessels

Planting is done in the same way as when growing in soil, that is, the roots must be evenly distributed in the substrate and directed into the depths of the pot or box, trying not to break them.

The pot is carefully filled with clay granules or other substrate. The plant itself should not be immersed too deeply in the substrate so that the root collar is on the surface. If the plants are large, use the stick (holder) provided in the container. When growing plants in small lattice pots or special containers, they can eventually be transplanted into a larger container right along with the inner pot. After all, roots often grow through holes in the walls, and they are easily damaged during transplantation. If the drug levatite HD5 is used to feed plants, it can be immediately added to an external vessel during planting. Its quantity depends on the surface of the substrate. For 1 m you need to take 500-600 cm. With a vessel size of 0.5 x 0.5 m, 125-150 cm3 is enough

In case water. It is characterized by a particularly high content of lime and chlorine; it is recommended to increase the dose of the drug to 50%, since it is able to neutralize impurities in water harmful to plants. If other anhydrous complete nutrient mixtures are used, they are added only 1-2 weeks after transplanting into water. Use lukewarm tap water. The required quantity will be indicated by the level indicator. Too much high level water in a container is harmful: the base of the stem should never be in water.

Which cacti are suitable for hydroculture?

Epiphytic genera of cacti are especially suitable for these purposes. They tolerate a uniform supply of water and nutrients well. In addition, this eliminates the risk of damage to the lump from drying out.

Highly succulent cacti such as spherical and columnar cacti also feel good. Along with an adequate supply of water and nutrients, plants must be provided with all other growth factors - light, heat and air - in sufficient quantities. It is often necessary to resort to artificial supplementary illumination of plants.

The dormant period, which is important for all cacti, is achieved by reducing the level of the nutrient solution to a minimum (up to several centimeters) or by completely removing it. At the same time, the temperature is lowered. The dormant period begins, as with conventional cultivation in the ground, for most cacti at the end of October and lasts until mid-March. Epiphytic cacti require a number of other conditions, which will be discussed below.

Cacti are especially loved by gardeners for their unpretentiousness and decorativeness. In addition, the cultivation of these flowers has one interesting detail that constantly attracts enthusiasts to it.

It lies in the fact that it is relatively difficult to make a cactus bloom; moreover, from year to year the conditions under which the plant blooms may be different.

Thanks to this property, cacti will always be popular as an interesting object not only for contemplation, but also for research.

Description of the plant

From a botanical point of view, almost all representatives of the Cactus family are nothing special; one might even say that these are very primitive plants

The diversity of structure, as well as the size of the shoots, the direction of their growth, the ability to branch, etc., have led to the fact that in the family there are peculiar “analogs” of almost all representatives flora, as well as several of its own forms, unique only to Cactus

To put it simply, the same anatomy and physiology of cacti is not at all a hindrance to their external diversity and unique, incomparable exterior. Well, don’t forget about another important property of these plants. Most of them have beautiful and bright flowers.

The cactus trunk is a fleshy body filled with water. Its dimensions can vary - from 1 cm to 20 m. The leaves of the cactus are reduced and are thin, pointed branches of short length, called spines. They grow from areoles - small modified axillary buds.

Some species of cacti (Echinocerus crestata, Hatiora, Lophophora, etc.) may lack spines altogether. Others (for example, Astrophytum capricornus), on the contrary, have very long spiny shoots up to 7 cm long.

Cactus flowers and fruits have an original structure: part of the flower, bud and fruit are also part of the stem.

The root system of the plant is also reduced and consists of a rod with several small branches. Sometimes it consists of 5-6 short roots. Only in large species is it similar to the branched root system of trees.

The homeland of all cacti is America, but thanks to people from there, they have spread throughout the world. Mostly cacti are heat-loving plants, but some species can climb far from warm places. The most extreme species, capable of withstanding relatively cold winters, grow in Canada and southern Argentina (57° north and 50° south latitude, respectively).

Among cactus growers, there is a conditional division of the family into three groups:

• desert
• forest
• indoor

Desert species can differ significantly from forest species and require various conditions growing. As for indoor ones, everything is a little simpler with them: most of them are bred artificially through cross-selection and feel normal in apartments and houses.

Typical representatives of desert cacti are:

• Echinopsis
• Echinocereus
• various echinocacti
• astrophytums
• prickly pear
• rebutions
• mammillaria
• etc.

All desert cacti are drought-resistant plants and can survive without watering for up to six months. They are not afraid of sunburn, and in general, the more direct sunlight there is in the life of this species, the better.

The variety of forest cacti suitable for indoor growing is somewhat more modest. This is due to the fact that in natural wild conditions they grow on the trunks of other trees, and not all of them can be adapted to home conditions.

Typical representatives of forest cacti grown at home:

• rhipsalidopsis
• zygocactus
• aporocactus
• epiphyllum

Unlike desert cacti, forest cacti, although they are light-loving, do not tolerate direct sunlight. It is recommended to place them in partial shade, or use diffused lighting. These varieties, although they are able to tolerate drought, are not as long-lasting as desert ones.

Features of caring for cacti

In general, cacti are very unpretentious and hardy, but to get really attractive specimens, you have to work hard. The main task is to bring the plant’s conditions closer to natural conditions, which can be a difficult task even at home.

The main problem when growing all cacti is the lack of light. These light-loving plants literally suffer from a small amount of solar energy, so they should definitely be kept on the windowsills of southern windows

In summer, it is strongly recommended to take pots of flowers to the balcony or garden. It should be remembered that in winter time cacti enter a period of rest, and light becomes not very important to them, to the point that you can even put the pot in the shade in a cool room.

If the plant is constantly in the same place and is not transplanted into the open sky in summer, it is better not to place it in the shade in winter, but to provide it with year-round sunshine on the windowsill.

In any case, if the cactus does not have enough light, it will report it itself: the trunk will stretch, and its top will acquire a pale tint.

Despite being thermophilic, cacti are able to withstand low temperatures for short periods of time.

In addition, they are also well adapted to their sudden changes. In summer, the plant will feel normal at both +20°C and +35°C, but in winter, during the dormant period, cacti should be kept cool. It is advisable to lower the ambient temperature for the flower during the dormant period to +6-14°C.

Cacti love fresh air and need regular ventilation.(of course, without constant drafts). It is recommended to ventilate the room with cacti twice a day.

In the room where the plants are located, there should be no heating devices that reduce air humidity, otherwise the growth of your cacti may slow down.

Since the homeland of most varieties of cacti has a hot and dry climate, in its natural environment desert cacti practically do not encounter fungal diseases and have no immunity to them.

This can be a problem at home, since in apartments, unlike deserts, fungi are almost ubiquitous and special attention should be paid to protecting cacti from them. Next, various aspects of caring for cacti at home will be discussed in more detail.

The intensity of watering and its rates mainly depend on the type of cactus. In addition, there is some relationship with the time of year, temperature and illumination. Typically, moderate watering is carried out as the soil dehydrates and sets into a dry crust.

Try to pour water into the substrate little by little and very carefully, avoiding its erosion. Excessive watering is also undesirable for these plants.

When the weather is rainy and cold, with low pressure, the plants are not watered, even if the soil is dry. In winter, watering rates for most cacti are halved. For some species, they stop completely.

With the awakening of the cacti (the appearance of areas with an intense green color at the top), they are brought out of hibernation by spraying them with warm water from a spray bottle for a month. In this case, the watering mode is again set to “summer”. In spring or autumn, watering is carried out in the morning, and in summer - in the evening.

Some species (for example, notocacti) do not tolerate excessive humidity at all. They do not need abundant moisture in the substrate, and they do not need spraying at all. To bring them out of hibernation, simply change the temperature regime and bring them into the light.

Water for irrigation should stand for 2-3 days. You can use boiled, melted or rain water. Once a month, the soil is acidified - diluted in irrigation water citric acid(0.5 g per 1 liter of water).

They also practice watering cacti by pouring water into a tray. To do this, use trays with high sides, several centimeters higher than the drainage layer in the pot. To water, you will need to fill the pan with water to the maximum level.

Beginning flower growers often make the mistake of leaving water in the pan for a long time. This, of course, cannot be allowed; half an hour after watering, it is necessary to completely drain the water from the pan.

Top dressing

Cacti, as a rule, do not need feeding. Typically, plants are fed when absolutely necessary (for example, when shoots are deformed, there is no flowering, or to stimulate growth). Fertilizers in the form of solutions are used no more than once a week, and foliar feeding are not used at all.

Most the right decision will purchase fertilizer at a specialized flower shop, but if you wish, you can cook it yourself. It is recommended to fertilize cacti with the so-called. "Kadatsky's mixture".

It has the following composition:

• potassium phosphate – 200 g
• ammonium phosphate – 30 g
• ammonium sulfate – 80 g
• Potassium nitrate – 40 g
• calcium nitrate – 40 g
• magnesium sulfate – 10 g

As you can see, the mixture contains a large amount of nitrogen, so it is not recommended to abuse it. Proper care involves using fertilizer in a concentration of 0.5 to 1.5 g per 1000 ml of water. As in the case of irrigation, boiled or settled water is used.

Soil and container

To grow cacti that can delight owners with their spring appearance, you need to provide them with the right soil. Cacti will grow well on a loose and porous substrate with good water permeability. For mature plants, increased air permeability is also desirable. The soil for cacti is chosen to be slightly or moderately acidic (pH from 4.5 to 6.0). It would be optimal to purchase the substrate in a specialized store, but you can make it yourself.

Some cacti (usually varieties with white spines) will benefit from adding a small amount of gypsum or plaster to the soil.

To do this, mix the following components in equal proportions: leaf soil, turf soil, washed river sand. In the case of growing hardy varieties (like Echinopsis), you can do it even simpler - use any soil and sand in a 1 to 1 ratio.

Typically, peat is not used when creating a soil mixture. Despite the fact that peat is an acidic environment acceptable for cacti, it would be wrong to allow an excessive excess of nutrients in the substrate. Perhaps this will cause increased growth of the crop, however, it will slow down the reproduction processes (even children will not appear, not to mention the flowering of cacti).

Unlike most cultures, which prefer clay containers, containers for cacti can be either ceramic or plastic.

Plastic containers are even better (especially for young plants), since the good air permeability of the ceramics promotes leaching of the soil.

The height of the pot should be 20% greater than the length of the root system, and the width should be at least 50% greater than its diameter.

A drainage layer 1-2 cm high must be placed at the bottom of the pot. It is advisable that the roots do not reach it. You can use brick chips or expanded clay as drainage. You should not put broken eggshells on the bottom, as they will promote leaching of the soil.

Before planting, it is advisable to carry out a disinfection procedure for the pot, for example, by pouring boiling water over it inside and out. After the cactus is placed in a pot and sprinkled with substrate, it is recommended to compact it and sprinkle the surface with small stones on top. For this you may need small pebbles or small flat crushed stone.

Diseases and pests

Cacti are quite hardy, but in our climate they can face two dangers - a lack of essential minerals and fungus. The first often leads to withering of the shoots and the appearance of yellowness on them. Usually, dealing with yellowness is very simple - correct the watering regime and apply fertilizing.

The fungus can manifest itself in different ways. Often, the rotting of a cactus is also associated precisely with the activity of the fungus. The main reason for these phenomena is excess moisture in the substrate and air. Many people forget that the cactus is a desert plant and should not be watered like ordinary indoor flowers. You also need to follow a simple rule: the air in the room with cacti should not be too humid.

1. Remove the cactus from the substrate
2. Remove all damaged areas
3. Treat the cut with crushed charcoal
4. Transplant the plants into a new substrate that has been disinfected in advance (for example, by heating in the oven or treating with potassium permanganate)

It should be said right away that the likelihood of success with such events is relatively low. As a rule, to preserve the variety and ensure that the fungus is eliminated, the entire plant is destroyed, leaving only the tips of the shoots or ripe children.

Cacti have relatively few pests. Despite the high attractiveness of the delicate plant tissues for caterpillars, local species, as a rule, are not interested in cacti. Even plants planted in the garden are rarely attacked by caterpillars or slugs.

The main threat to cacti comes from two species: root bugs and hairy aphids. The scale insect is a small insect that lives in the substrate and damages the roots of the plant.

The hairy aphid is a close relative of the mealybug(actually, another name for aphids is the stem bug), but it lives on the shoots of the plant.

This pest causes numerous wounds to the plant, making punctures in the stems and feeding on cactus juice. With a large number of this arthropod, cacti may even begin to fall off their spines. In addition, through the holes that the mite makes in the plant shell, fungal spores can enter it, which leads to the formation of areas of rotting.

To combat both types of scale insects, special anti-tick agents are used - acaricides. The best drugs for this purpose are Actara or Actellik.

There is also a way to get rid of these pests without using chemicals. To do this, the cactus is removed from the soil, the remaining soil is washed off and immersed in water at a temperature of 50-60° degrees for 10 minutes. After which it is dried for several days and transplanted into a new substrate. Just as in the case of fungus, it is advisable to disinfect the substrate.

Reproduction

After personal computers began to appear in people’s homes, it became fashionable to place cacti near them. Many believe that such a plant has the ability to reduce the level of harmful radiation or completely absorb it. But after some time, most PC users began to notice that for some reason their cacti were withering and dying. The thing is that despite its unpretentiousness and resistance to drought, this plant needs some care.

It should be understood that cacti and deciduous indoor plants need to be cared for differently. If you want a cactus to become a real decoration for your apartment, then before you get one, you need to ask how to properly care for it and what can harm this unusual flower.

America is the birthplace of cacti. In the wild, cacti can grow to significant sizes. Desert cacti thrive in the harsh semi-desert conditions of Argentina, Chile, Mexico, Peru and Bolivia. Forest cacti can be found in natural conditions in tropical jungles. Desert and forest species of cacti have significant differences, and in this regard, how to care for a cactus is determined by its type.

At home, dwarf cacti are often grown; they were born with the help of breeders. You can purchase a huge number of miniature varieties, and placing several dozen of them on the windowsill will not be difficult.

The most popular of the domestic desert cacti are: Echinocereus Knippel and crested, Cereus peruvian, Aporocactus whip-shaped, notocactus, prickly pear, Rebutia dwarf, Echinopsis, Echinocactus Gruson, Chamecereus Sylvester, Espola woolly, Astrophytum capricornus, parodies bloodflower and gold yew-needle.

Varieties of forest cacti grown at home do not have external similarities with cacti that are familiar to everyone. In the wild, they prefer to grow under or on trees. At home, epiphyllum, rhipsalidopsis, and zigocactus (Christmas or Decembrist) are most often grown.

If you purchased this plant not to protect yourself from radiation, but to decorate your apartment, then try to choose the most suitable place for it.

Desert cactus varieties require plenty of sunlight. In this regard, experts advise placing them on a window with a southern or eastern orientation. And varieties of forest cacti, including zygocacti, are recommended to be placed on windows of northern or western orientation. If you place a Christmas tree on a south-facing window, its leaf blades will become faded, and failures will begin between the periods of flowering and dormancy.

In summer, it is best to take these plants out into the fresh air (balcony). If in winter the apartment is very warm, then for cacti it is necessary to maintain high air humidity. However, it is worth considering that in winter, almost all varieties of cacti experience a dormant period. In this regard, it is recommended to move them to a cool room (from 15 to 17 degrees) and place them in partial shade or shade.

Although the plant is drought-resistant, it cannot be watered at all. You can skip one watering, but it is better to carry out this procedure as needed and do not forget that the cactus, like all other plants, needs water. For irrigation, you need to use water at room temperature, which needs to stand for 24 hours. If possible, it is recommended to water the cacti with rain or melt water.

Approximate watering plan:

• in spring and summer - daily or once every two days;
• autumn period - once every 5–7 days;
• winter period - once every 1–1.5 weeks.

The basic principle of watering is that the warmer the room, the more abundant and frequent the watering.

It should also be remembered that the cactus grows actively in the warm months, while it begins to bloom in the cold season. If you want your cactus to bloom, then it simply needs to be given a period of rest.

The cactus needs to be replanted only when it becomes cramped in the pot. This procedure is carried out in the spring, when the period of intensive growth begins. 2-3 days before replanting, the cactus should be stopped watering, as the soil should freely fall off the roots. In order to avoid injury from the cactus, it must be wrapped in several layers of paper or high-density fabric.

Young specimens require an annual transplant, and those that are 3 or 4 years old need this procedure once every few years.

The container for planting must be chosen compact, so that the root system fits into it, and there is no empty space. Place a drainage layer on the bottom of the pot and add a small amount of substrate. After this, you need to hold the plant with your hand and lower its roots into the container. At the same time, you need to slowly pour the soil into the container with your other hand until it fills the pot. In this case, the soil surface should be one centimeter below the edge of the container. The base of the stem should not be buried in the substrate. In order to pour the soil into the pot more tightly, you need to systematically tap on its walls. The optimal composition of the soil mixture for a given plant: washed river sand, peat, leaf soil and charcoal. The soil needs to be slightly acidic and loose. If desired, you can purchase soil mixture for cacti in a special store.

Cacti can be propagated by seed, as well as by shoots. The second method is very simple and effective, and therefore is more popular among gardeners. However, those who consider themselves a true cactus grower will definitely want to grow a cactus from a seed with their own with my own hands. However, it is worth considering that this method of reproduction is quite complicated and ineffective.

For reproduction vegetative way shoots are used that are taken from adult specimens. Such cuttings, as a rule, have small roots, and therefore rooting occurs quite quickly and easily.

The seeds of these plants purchased in a special store must be disinfected by immersing them for some time in a strong solution of potassium manganese. After this, they are germinated by placing them in a humid environment. For some types of seeds, sprouts may appear within a day, while for others it will take several weeks.

Psychologists have found that most often people who grow cacti are dry and restrained in their emotions, but in reality they are very impressionable and vulnerable.

An amazing cactus plant belongs to the Cactaceae family. There are two known types of culture - forest and desert. The former prefer a tropical climate. Desert ones can be found in certain regions of Mexico, America, Argentina, Bolivia and Peru. For indoor growing, dwarf varieties are usually used. With the advent of personal computers, the popularity of cacti has increased dramatically. They are kept close to the device to protect them from harmful radiation. But often these drought-resistant and unpretentious plants begin to fade. Improper care can destroy decorative crops. Let's take a closer look at how to care for a cactus at home.

Features of caring for cacti depend on the varietal of the plant.

Indoors, you can grow several types of desert plants - Chamecerus "Sylvestra", Cereus Peruvian, prickly pear, Echinopsis, Astrophytum "Capricorn", Echinocactus "Grusona", Echinopsis, Espola woolly, Reba dwarf and so on. Forest cactus species differ not only in their care rules, but also appearance. The most popular include rhipsalidopsis, zygocactus (Decembrist) and eppiphyllum.

Cactus care

At home, it is easy to follow the basic agrotechnical rules for cultivating flowers.

Lighting standard

In their natural habitat, cacti prefer bright sunlight. Therefore, indoors, it is advisable to prepare south-facing windows for cultivation. In low light conditions, the cactus slows down its development. The stem may appear underdeveloped and deformed. Often such changes can be observed during the cold season.

Desert species of cacti, especially those located on northern windows, are in dire need of additional lighting. Determining excess or deficiency of solar radiation is quite simple. In a shaded area of ​​the flower, you can see the stem thinning or stretching.

With the arrival of warmer weather, when there are no sudden changes in temperature, cacti can be taken out onto the terrace or balcony. During prolonged summer downpours, they need to be protected with transparent polyethylene.

You can find out information about the needs of a cactus from the video:

Air humidity

Despite their heat-loving nature, cacti cannot tolerate heat and dry air at home. This combination is often observed in winter, when heating appliances are running. Therefore, flowerpots should be placed away from radiators. It is enough to choose a warm place with high air humidity (from 50%). Perennials do not tolerate exposure to strong winds and drafts. Therefore, especially in winter, it is advisable to take them out of the room during ventilation.

Few gardeners know how to care for a cactus so that it blooms. Often the lack of flowering is due to constant movement. But other factors also have an adverse effect, for example, insufficient fresh air.

To harden, cacti should be kept outdoors until mid-October. During this time, the culture will get used to sudden temperature changes. This will help preserve the decorative appearance for subsequent wintering. In addition, the plant’s resistance to various diseases, decorativeness increases, and there is a possibility that the cactus will soon bloom.

Irrigation technology

For proper home care, the cactus needs to be watered regularly. Despite existing prejudices, the plant needs sufficient moisture. The rate and frequency of watering depend on the type of cactus.

Plants located in a room with high temperature and dry air need to be moistened abundantly. Especially if a small container is used for cultivation. In summer, cacti can be watered several times a week. Preferably early in the morning. Also, plants in small flowerpots can be sprayed periodically. On cloudy days there is no need to water the crop. The plant will take the required amount of moisture from the air.

For perennials at home, you should use boiled or filtered soft water. You can also increase softness using peat. Using hard water has a detrimental effect on plant development. Calcium salts can settle on the stem circle of the flower. And this significantly worsens the decorative properties of the cactus.

At the beginning of autumn, watering should be gradually reduced. In winter, the cactus is watered in small portions to prevent the substrate from completely drying out. The dormant stage of a plant indoors begins in the fall and lasts until early spring. Preservation of decorativeness, further development and fruiting depend on properly organized wintering. You can gradually return to standard watering and spraying in the spring.

Flowering cacti are particularly vulnerable. They cannot be moved to another place or rotated. Otherwise the buds will fall off.

Some species produce babies.

Organization of feeding

At home even this unpretentious plant requires periodic use of fertilizers. It is advisable to purchase liquid humic products for the culture. They contain a sufficient amount of nutrients. Feeding promotes development, full growth and further flowering.

Forest types of cacti indoors need to be fertilized twice a season. Nutrition will be needed during the formation of flower buds and during the flowering period. It is enough to dilute ten milliliters of the drug in one liter of water. The average frequency of use is once every 7-10 days. The procedure must be carried out from March to October. During the winter dormancy period, fertilizing should be stopped.

Desert varieties of cactus are fertilized according to the same principle. Only the concentration of the drug should be lower. You will need five milliliters of the component and two liters of water. Flowering cacti do not need to be fertilized in winter. It is enough to increase the frequency of watering.

Technology for transplanting adult cacti

To change the container and soil mixture, it is advisable to choose the time in the spring - April or May. Young representatives should be replanted once a year. Adult cacti do not need to be disturbed. It is enough to change the substrate and flowerpot once every three years.

Old representatives of the crop that have developed a massive and large stem must be replanted every two years. Take care of breathable, loose soil. Regular replanting is beneficial for the culture. It promotes rapid growth.

For planting, use a thick drainage layer. This will help prevent the accumulation of excess moisture and rotting of the root system. For drainage, you can add pebbles, crushed crushed stone or brick, as well as expanded clay into the container. You need to add crushed egg shells to the selected mixture. Then put everything in the pot in a layer of about 3 cm. When replanting, you should use a flowerpot whose diameter exceeds the size of the root system by several centimeters.

In large containers, cacti may experience slow growth. Varieties with a shallow root system should be planted in shallow, wide pots. Also, when choosing a container, take into account other specific characteristics of the plant. For example, cacti can produce a large number of children. This type of plant will need a much wider pot than the standard one.

The material used is not particularly important. The plant grows equally well in products made of clay, ceramics or plastic. You can choose a flowerpot according to your taste or depending on the style of the interior.

A few days before transplanting, you need to stop watering the cactus. The substrate will have time to dry. Unlike the standard change of container and soil, this will allow you to painlessly release the above-ground part of the plant. Please note that the substrate should not contain organic matter. Only minerals. A standard mixture with a neutral acidity level is suitable.

It is quite difficult to achieve flowering at home.

At home, you can prepare a mixture of peat, leaf soil, turf, peat and coarse river sand. All parts must be taken equally. Also add crushed wood ash to the resulting composition. Granular superphosphate must be added to the purchased substrate.

If you have a cactus with increased hairiness and large spines, add lime to the soil when changing containers. It is prohibited to use fresh material. Marble chips, remnants of old plaster or limestone are suitable.

Echinopsis and epiphytic varieties (a crop that is attached to another plant) can be supplemented with rotted manure. Columnar cereus responds well to turf soil and crushed stone. After the procedure, you need to cover the cactus with a transparent jar or plastic film. Watering should be done in small portions daily. After a week, the protection can be removed. It is strictly forbidden to replant cacti during the period of flowering and bud formation.

Problems in growing

Diseases and pests attack the plant as a result of improper care. As a rule, helminthosporiosis, late blight, dry, black rot, rhizoctory blight, brown spot, and anthracnose affect the flower. To get rid of the disease you will need fungicides and insecticides.

The plant may also die from fungal and viral infections. Saving a flower is quite simple. You need to buy an antifungal or antiviral agent.

Cactus is an amazing ornamental plant. Despite its unpretentiousness and resistance to adverse conditions, poor care can destroy the culture. Graceful flowers will appear only in a favorable environment.

The opinion that cacti do not need care is more a stereotype than reality. Despite their relative unpretentiousness, these thorny plants still require minimal attention from their owners. This is especially important if you want the cactus to bloom. If this has not happened over a long period of time, it means that the plant has not been cared for enough. So, how to care for a cactus correctly? Let's try to answer this question in more detail.

Cacti belong to the family of perennial flowering plants. It is believed that they appeared as a result of evolution about 30-35 million years ago. However, there is no exact information about this, since scientists have never been able to find fossil remains of this plant. At all times, cacti have been used in home interiors. Most often they served as amulets at home. Interestingly, many dog ​​breeds cannot tolerate being around this plant.

How to carry out a transplant correctly?

Many people are interested in the question of how to care for cacti after transplantation. First of all, you should take into account that it is advisable to do this annually, but only while the plant remains young. In the future, the transplant may harm him, so it is performed only if necessary. It is advisable to replant the cactus in the spring, using a larger pot each time.

For this plant, it is best to choose the most illuminated place in the house. This rule is especially true in winter, when there is not enough natural light. However, you should avoid direct sunlight during the hottest months.

The main condition that must be ensured for normal wintering of all types of cacti is a sufficiently low temperature. The thermometer should vary between +5 and +13° C. In such a dry and cold atmosphere, the growth ripens, which guarantees the formation of flowers in the future.

The earthen ball should consist of a mixture that includes:

• leaf humus;
• turf land;
• washed sand (preferably with large grains).

All these components are added in equal proportions. It is often recommended to also use crushed bricks. If you do not want to mix all the components of the soil mixture yourself, you can purchase special soil for cacti. You can use small stones or even foam for drainage.

You should not spray the cactus, even in summer. The only species that tolerates this process normally to some extent is Cleistocactus. It is better to limit yourself to fresh air - this is the most favorable environment for this plant.

How to care for a cactus at home

Cacti are among the most sought-after indoor plants that bloom today. Not many people realize this, since under unfavorable conditions flowers rarely appear on them. However, if you surround them with attention and care, the cacti will definitely delight you with buds. If you are wondering how to care for cacti so that they bloom, then you should pay attention to the following recommendations.

Most species of this plant are able to bloom at an early age, but there are also those that prepare for this process for quite a long time, for example, prickly pear and cereus. The main thing that is required for this is to create conditions that are as close as possible to their natural environment.

Most often, cacti begin to bud at the age of three or four years. This phenomenon repeats every year, particularly in the spring. Thanks to the compactness of this plant, on one windowsill you can assemble a whole collection of different varieties that bloom at different times of the year. These types include:

The peculiarity of their flowering is that on almost all cacti, flowers appear only on new growth. To provoke this process, careful care of the plant in summer is required. In winter, it is advisable to leave it alone. The secret also lies in the fact that a slightly cramped container better “explains” to the plant that it is time to bloom.

How to water a cactus?

Experienced gardeners agree that proper care of cacti involves moderate watering. It is better to underfill them than to overfill them. To do this, it is advisable to use soft, settled water, the temperature of which is at least 30 °C. Watering should be increased only in the spring until the end of summer.

All cacti need abundant watering only during the period of active growth. At this time, the earthen ball should be thoroughly moistened. In the autumn, watering is reduced, and in winter this plant does not need moisture at all.

How often should you water your cactus the rest of the time? During the dormant period, it is advisable to water the plant quite rarely, only when the soil in the pot dries out.

Video about caring for cacti at home