How to lay the first row of bricks. How to lay brick: step-by-step instructions. Methods for leveling the upper plane of the foundation

To build a house, you need to know how to lay bricks. Such buildings are in demand, but buying a ready-made home is common. A specialist will build a high-quality brick wall, but isn’t it possible to build it yourself? This requires knowledge and practical skills.

What results can you get from laying the foundation yourself?

You need to prepare materials and tools:

• mortar (wall fastening);
• bricks;
• chalked cord.
• wheelbarrow (transportation of materials from the warehouse);
• trowel (trowel) (mortar laying);
• special glasses to protect vision;
• carpenter's square (angles are checked);
• level (horizontalness of masonry);
• hammer and pickaxe in one tool;
• roulette;
• cord for leveling brick rows.

Solution

Instructions for preparing the composition:

• Place cement and dry sand in a ratio of 1:5, you can add clay or lime for plasticity.
• Mix cement with sand.
• Take the prepared mixture in small parts, add water, stirring, avoiding hardening of the overly prepared solution.
• It is not recommended to make a mixture of more than 40–50 liters, the consumption is small. It is better to use dry solution little by little and add water.
• For large volumes of masonry, a concrete mixer will be required.

Hollow bricks with holes will absorb the mortar, reducing the strength of the fastening.

Features of masonry

Compliance with these requirements will improve the quality of work. Principles of masonry:

• Make sure that the volume of solution applied is equal, otherwise it will not be easy to get an even edge on the outer row.
• The brick is placed parallel to the row on the prepared working surface, where the outer edge coincides with the plane of the wall.
• Three rules: equal height of the brickwork, correct linear position, tight fit to the adjacent brick.

There are several types of seams when laying.

Pustoshovka - the mortar is placed without protruding beyond the edge of the brick, leaving a gap used for plastering. The plaster mixture flows into the cracks and holds tightly.

Undercut seam - fills the gaps between bricks completely, leveled. Used in fireplace and stove pipes to create a smooth surface to prevent soot from accumulating. Rarely used as decorative.

A concave (convex) mortar joint has a decorative, design function. To create a concave seam, use a piece of a round tube; to create a convex seam, part of the surface in the tube is cut off.

Wooden lath for bricklaying

How to lay brick?

There are a number of features in the brick laying process:

• When starting to lay out the first row, two layers of roofing felt are placed on the foundation.
• They plan to lay brickwork - one brick, one and a half, or exactly two.
• How to lay brick correctly? Having made estimates and purchased the necessary material, you need to lay out the dry masonry, identifying flaws.
• If no errors are found in the project, you can lay the brick directly.
• If the first line of brick is curved, the subsequent ones will be laid out in the same way.
• It is necessary to use special construction tools for a correct, even wall.
• Apply the solution, lay it down, adjusting it with the handle of the trowel until it reaches the correct position, and remove the excess into a bucket.
• The cement hardens slowly, in several stages, it is possible to correct it and make it smooth. When a skill is formed, it will work out immediately.
• The gap between the bricks is three centimeters. The solution will spread evenly during installation.

The gap is three centimeters

Additional requirements

Experts advise beginners not to forget a number of additional requirements:

• Carefully control the installation level.
• The correct angle of the structure is 50% of the success of the work. Before work, lay out the corners in several rows.
• They work using a horizontal or vertical level; the quality of wall laying depends on the angles.
• The height should be twice that of the walls during installation.
• For plastered walls, the mortar is applied as a blank. Distribute between bricks without filling the gap.
• When building a fireplace chimney, the seams are filled completely. Then no combustion products are formed. Closed seams are used for facing installation.
• Smooth, right angles of the structure are created by “ordering” (metal corners, ensure accuracy of work).
• To secure the tool, brackets are used to ensure accuracy of work.
• It is impossible to ensure even installation, master class, without a level, tape measure, mason's cord, chalked cord.
• An accurate first row is important. A stretched construction cord is used.
• The laid brick does not have to be adjacent by a couple of millimeters so that the mortar does not press.
• Each level is controlled horizontally, in pairs with the adjacent one. For beautiful facial styling, such control is needed.

Additional Information

Tips that may be useful:

• The seams in successive rows must be different, otherwise the wall will reduce the degree of stability.
• Approach the construction carefully and draw a construction plan, indicating the required amount of bricks and the number of rows laid out.
• If it is difficult to lay out facing bricks, use traditional building bricks.
• Facing is more aesthetically pleasing in appearance and has a different purpose.
• When planning the required amount of solution, the volume must be increased by an additional 10%; the craftsman will break this part during work.
• In order for the solution to ensure a strong attachment, first pour water over the brick before use.
• The mortar takes a long time to dry; if necessary, the bricks can be moved, removed or re-laid.
• To lay brickwork, reinforcement mesh is placed every 5–6 rows.
• For a tight grip, add more mortar, tap with the end of a trowel, and level it along the cord. Excess solution is picked up with a trowel.

How to learn to lay bricks? Having completed the training, building simple structures (columns, steps), in the future the builder will lay out the brick barbecue itself, the walls of a barn or house, or a summer gazebo in the garden.

Before you start laying bricks, you should familiarize yourself with the nuances of this process. From the photo of laying bricks with your own hands, you can see that it is quite easy. And to really make this task easier, below are the steps for laying brick yourself.

Brief terminology

Brick is one of the most popular building materials. Every person has been familiar with his appearance since childhood. But the names of its faces should be considered:

• the long side edges are called “spoons”;
• short side edges - “poke”;
• the upper and lower edges are “beds”;
• the intersection of the faces is called an "edge".

The brick has standard dimensions: single - 250 x 125 x 66 mm, and one-and-a-half - 250 x 125 x 88 mm.

Versta - outer rows of brickwork. It is divided into external (facade) and internal.

Zabutka are products that are laid between the front and interior versts.

A spoon row is bricks that are laid with long side edges. And the butt row is bricks laid with short side edges.

A pier is a part of the wall that appears between two openings (windows, doors, arches).

What is needed for bricklaying

Where to start laying bricks with your own hands? Naturally, with the preparation of the necessary working tools. Let's look at do-it-yourself bricklaying devices:

• A trowel (trowel) is a flat metal spatula with a triangular-shaped handle. Serves for applying and leveling the solution, as well as for removing excess mass.
• Hammer-pick - different from the classic hammer. On one side there is a blunt rectangular striker, and on the other there is a pointed part that looks like a chisel. The pointed side is intended for breaking off small pieces of brick, and the blunt side is for leveling the surface. If available, you can use a grinder with a stone disc.
• Construction level - necessary to control horizontal and vertical masonry.
• A construction square is a type of ruler. Used to control angles.

• Construction plumb line (with a fairly heavy weight). Necessary for measuring the verticality of masonry and angles.
• Mooring cord (mooring cord) - twisted cord with a diameter of 3-5 mm. Necessary to ensure horizontal and straight laying of rows.
• Joining - used at the final stage of work. Necessary for forming seams and sealing them.
• Ruler - used to check the thickness of seams.
• The rule is a wooden or aluminum ruler. Used to control the plane of laying rows.
• Shovel - for mixing the solution and stirring it periodically.
• Concrete mixer or other container - for mixing masonry mortar.
• Buckets for carrying the solution. Usually 2-3 pieces are needed.
• Construction mixer - for uniformity of the solution. But it’s possible without it.

Usually a set of these tools is quite enough for construction.

Preparation of the solution

Not only the safety of the building, but also its strength depends on the masonry mortar. Therefore, special attention must be paid to this process of preparing mortar for laying bricks with your own hands.

Advice! For beginners, it is better to make a small amount of solution to eliminate the possibility of premature hardening.

For a high-quality solution, use good cement grade M300-M500, dry sand (river or quarry), water and a plasticizer. If necessary, dyes, soot or graphite are added to create a contrast with the brick.

Standard proportions of cement and sand are 1:3-1:5, depending on the brand of cement. It is worth considering that the more sand, the stronger the connection, but the lower the elasticity. The amount of water is often calculated by experiment and is approximately 0.4-0.6 parts. For plasticity, use lime, clay, liquid soap or, in extreme cases, washing powder in a proportion of no more than 0.1 part.

First you need to sift the sand so that it does not contain impurities from stone, soil and debris. Next, combine the dry ingredients in the required proportion and mix until the color of the mixture is uniform. And only then add water. This sequence is necessary for uniform mixing.

Important! The setting of the mixture begins in approximately 45 minutes, and ends after 2 hours. The solution acquires full strength in almost a month - in 28 days.

The consistency of the finished solution should resemble thick porridge. You can check it with a trowel. You need to run it through the solution. If the trowel mark does not float and the solution does not tear, it means that the amount of water is normal. If the solution floats, there is a lot of water, and if it breaks, there is not enough.

The importance of proper brick laying with your own hands

The safety of the building depends primarily on the correct laying of bricks. This process consists of several steps. Before starting masonry, a beginner should practice making individual objects - corners and pillars. Below are step-by-step instructions for laying bricks with your own hands. For convenience, it is described step by step.

Laying bricks dry

The essence of the step is to lay the brick “dry”. This is necessary for computational work and checking the correct installation.

1. Preparing the necessary tools.
2. Unpacking and checking the brick. You need to pay attention to both the color of the material and its size. It is better to take bricks from one batch.
3. Make sure the foundation or plinth is protected from moisture. That is, waterproofing is installed. This is necessary so that the brick does not draw out moisture.
4. Now you need to lay out the first row of bricks, without using mortar and scrupulous precision. It is necessary to use an object with a diameter of 8 mm (this could be a piece of reinforcement, for example). This is exactly the diameter that is needed, since it is equal to the thickness of the mortar between the bricks.
5. Now you can start laying out. We carefully lay the brick around the perimeter of the base, while carefully observing the gap and evenness of the masonry. Particular attention should be paid to the corners.
6. Now measurements are taken from corner to corner, and then diagonally. All data is recorded and verified with the data of the construction project.
7. At the corners, it is recommended to mark the plinth with a pencil where the edges of the bricks will be placed. If desired and have time, such markings can be made along the entire perimeter of the building.

Advice! To prevent the brick from “pulling” moisture from the mortar, it is recommended to first soak it in water for a while.

First row

We can say that this stage is the most crucial. And all because the rest of the layout depends on the correctness and quality of the laid out first row.

Stages of the second step:

1. The corners are laid out according to the marks made earlier. Their laying begins with two bricks placed at an angle of 90 o (checked with a triangle).
2. Bricks placed on the mortar must be carefully adjusted in height using a trowel or the blunt side of a pickaxe. It is important to use a level to make sure that the blocks on the two edges of the walls are placed at the same height.
3. In the same way, you need to lay bricks along the remaining corners of the building.
4. Now you need to stretch the mooring cord between the corner blocks. All other blocks of the first row will be aligned with it (both vertically and horizontally). The thread can be secured either in a row or using corners. It is important that the cord does not sag.
5. Then you can start laying out the remaining blocks of the crown. Using a trowel, apply the mortar, level it to a height of about 1.5 cm, lay the brick and be sure to level it both horizontally and vertically (using a mooring thread). You need to check the top with a building level. If necessary, it is possible to correct the brick by lightly tapping the blunt end of a pick-hammer or the handle of a trowel. As a result, the thickness of the seam horizontally should be about 8-10 mm, and vertically - 8 mm. Excess solution is removed with a trowel.
6. All other blocks of the first row are laid in the same way.
7. When the last brick of the crown is laid, a check is made. The height of all bricks must be the same and there should be no protrusion in any direction relative to the foundation.
8. If everything is in order, then you can begin laying out the corners of the second row, moving the mooring line and other work.

Bricklaying methods

After laying out the crown, the principle of operation does not change. But the masonry technology varies and depends on the plasticity of the solution. Let's consider two main methods:

• "Suck it." This method allows you to work faster. It is mainly used for laying walls. Mooring cords are stretched along the outer and inner sides of the row. The cement-sand mixture is poured out and spread with a trowel over the previous row. The thickness of the solution should be slightly greater than planned. It is important that the solution also fills the joints of the previous row. Now take the block, tilt it a little with a poke, plunge it into the mortar and move it towards the already laid brick so that the mixture is “collected” onto the edge. This way it is possible to form both horizontal and vertical seams. The rest of the bricks are laid out in the same way. The blocks are adjusted by lightly tapping with a trowel or a pick-hammer, and the excess mortar is removed. If necessary, vertical joints are filled where there is not enough mortar.
• “Pull in.” To use it, use a hard solution. It is more labor-intensive than other methods, but it produces the strongest seams. As in the previous method, the mooring cord is pulled, the mortar is laid out and leveled. Next, you need to turn the trowel on its side and carefully move it along the surface of the mortar, raking part of it towards the vertical side of the block to which the new one will be laid. As a result, an even side seam should form. Next, holding the mortar on the vertical side with a trowel, place the new block in the desired place and press it against the poke (spoon) of the adjacent block and the bed with the mortar. Then carefully remove the trowel. The following blocks are laid using the same technology. If necessary, you need to trim the rows with light blows with the handle of a trowel. Excess mortar is cut off with a trowel.

DIY brick pillars

Laying brick pillars with your own hands has certain features. For example, a brick needs to be impregnated with a special agent that will prevent the appearance of white spots (efflorescence). Required materials: brick, mortar, 4 metal rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm (15 cm longer than one side of the support), level, trowel, hammer and small stone (crushed stone can be used).

DIY brick laying steps:

1. A layer of insulation needs to be laid on the foundation. Next, lay out the first row of 1.5 or 2 bricks.
2. Then an offset of half a block is made. This is necessary to create a dressing.
3. Pieces of rod are laid on the solution. This is necessary for the evenness of the seams. Once the block is level, the rods are pulled out.
4. Excess solution is removed with a trowel. Every two or three rows, crushed stone is poured into the void of the post. It is recommended to use wire reinforcement.
5. Each row must be laid carefully. If necessary, trim with a hammer and check with a level.

To give a harmonious and respectable look, facing bricks are used. Laying facing bricks with your own hands is a little more difficult than laying walls. The tool remains the same, except that a template is added for more accurate masonry. The solution consists of cement, sand and water in a ratio of 1:3:1, respectively. To ensure that the color of the cement-sand mixture does not vary greatly, coloring pigments are added. Before laying out, the material must be soaked in water.

Important! Laying of facing bricks is carried out at a temperature of +5 C o.

The first step is to lay it out without mortar. This is necessary in order to calculate how many bricks need to be cut, which blocks will be used for laying door and window openings, and also to eliminate defects.

When all the ceramic products have been selected and trimmed, you can begin laying out.

Important! Under no circumstances should you use a metal disc or hammer. This may damage the material.

It must be taken into account that the size of the horizontal seam should be no more than 10 mm, and the vertical seam no more than 12 mm. The first row is laid out completely - from one side to the other. The solution must be applied with an indentation of 1.5 cm from the edge. But the laying of the next rows is different. Here, level masonry is necessary, and therefore measurements are required.

First you need to form corners to a height of 5-6 rows. Then the thread should be pulled between the blocks so that the layout is even. And now you need to do the seams. That is, using a special device, perform such actions so that the seam protrudes a few millimeters from the outside of the facing masonry. Next, the rows are laid out. A template is used for accuracy. It is important not to forget to wipe the lining with a damp cloth every 4 rows to remove dirt. It is best to remove it immediately if contamination appears.

Laying bricks with your own hands may seem difficult for an inexperienced person. But if you stick to technology, and even better, invite an experienced craftsman to help, then everything will definitely work out.

Brick is a multifunctional building stone of artificial origin, with which you can build almost anything. Perhaps this is the most popular building material, without which the improvement of not a single country house is complete.

Tools and equipment

For brickwork, the following must be present:

• trowels for applying mortar to brick;
• a hammer-pick, with which the products will be trimmed;
• additional tools, which include a cord, plumb line, level, etc.

For laying bricks, ordinary concrete mortar is used, prepared from cement and sand in a ratio of 1 to 5-6. The mortar is necessary to strengthen the masonry and glue individual bricks together. Sometimes ordinary washing powder is added there - this increases plasticity and fluidity, but it is prohibited to use it for hollow products, since the solution will flow into the cracks, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the material.

To prepare the solution, you must first mix dry cement with sand, then dilute with water as needed.

Note! It is not advisable to mix more than 50 liters at a time, since the solution is consumed slowly. It is better to take a small amount of dry mixture and dilute it with water.

But if you plan to complete a large volume of masonry, and several builders are involved in the work, then it is more advisable to use. We also note that it is recommended to use “three hundred” or “four hundred” grade cement.

Prices for cement and basic mixtures

Cement and base mixtures

After preparing the solution, you can begin the actual laying.

How to place corners correctly

If you have seen how a professional mason works, you have probably noticed that he begins his work by removing the corners. First, each of the corners should be drawn out one by one, and their height should be slightly higher than the height of the middle sections of the walls. For this purpose, marker beacons are used through which a cord is pulled - it will indicate the height and level of the masonry. It is necessary to pull the cord as tightly as possible so that it does not sag during operation. Moreover, it is necessary to periodically relay with beacon bricks.

To form rectangular corners, it is necessary to use the so-called ordering - a special device, which is an even iron square. On the order, you can make marks along the laying lines. The first two or three bricks must be laid using a rule, after which the order is established using staples. To achieve a vertical position, use a plumb line. The mooring cord is drawn according to the marks made in order.

Note! Experienced masons do not like to use the order, preferring to draw angles “by eye” and consider this tool to be the domain of exclusively inexperienced craftsmen. But if you are doing bricklaying for the first time, then you cannot do without order.

Video - Laying corners

Types of seams

After laying out the corners in several rows, you need to stretch the cord between them (the corners) and put the solution on. After this you need to start the main masonry. To understand all the nuances, you need to familiarize yourself with at least the main types of masonry joints.

There are several such seams, the most common of which are given below.

1. Pustoshovka – the mortar in this case does not protrude above the surface of the bricks; Small gaps remain that will be used for plastering. The plaster will flow into the cracks between the products, as a result of which it will adhere well.
2. Convex seams perform a purely decorative function. To form them, a piece of round pipe cut lengthwise is used.
3. Concave seam function also purely decorative, but an ordinary, uncut pipe is used for shaping.
4. When pruning the cracks are filled completely and leveled with the surface of the bricks. This type of masonry is used primarily for smooth surfaces (fireplaces, chimneys) to avoid the accumulation of soot, and less often as a decorative material.

Main masonry

So, after laying out the corners in several rows, you need to start the main masonry. In the future, as construction progresses, the corners will rise. After forming the corners, a layer of mortar is applied to the foundation, and a cord is stretched between them. You need to pull it extremely tightly to avoid problems with the evenness of the masonry. Mortar is applied to the end of the first brick, after which it (the brick) is placed close to the corner. All subsequent bricks are laid in the same way.

Note! The cord should be pulled exclusively along the upper level of the bricks.

For a tighter fit, more mortar is placed on the walls, after which each brick is tapped with the end of a trowel and leveled to the level of the cord. The solution that has come out is picked up with a trowel. Of course, if you are doing masonry for the first time, then the first few rows will have to be re-laid in any case, but after two days the work will go faster.

Find out how it is produced, and also familiarize yourself with the choice of materials and installation technology from our new article.

1. After every five to six rows, reinforcing mesh is laid.
2. The bricks should be bandaged, that is, the seams of adjacent rows should not overlap.
3. Before laying, each brick is immersed in water for better adhesion of the mortar.
4. If you are doing masonry for the first time, then start with primitive buildings (steps, columns, etc.). After this training stage, it will be easier to lay out more complex structures - a summer kitchen, for example, or a brick grill.
5. After preparing the tools and consumables, it is advisable to carry out the so-called dry masonry (without using mortar) in order to identify possible flaws. If everything is fine, then you can start laying the mortar.
6. For the first experiment, the best choice is a face brick (it has a smooth side) or a chocolate brick (with excellent decorative properties), the dimensions of which are slightly smaller than usual. Conversely, you can use rough brick, which looks like natural stone.
7. Before proceeding directly to the laying, you need to draw up a detailed plan in which all the rows of bricks will be drawn. This will avoid unnecessary costs, since brick is a very expensive material. The dimensions of the brick are as follows: 6.5x12x25 cm. When calculating, you should “throw” about 10% more on top of the required amount, since damage is inevitable (especially if the laying is being done for the first time).

And remember the main thing - there is no need to rush. First, lay the brick dry, as we have already discussed, then apply the mortar and begin laying, tapping each piece with the end of the trowel so that it takes the desired position. The solution that protrudes out must be removed with a trowel and thrown back into the bucket.

There is no need to rush when working with the solution, because this is not a “Moment” that sets in a few seconds. You will have enough time to experiment with installation, remove and install mortar, turn the bricks in one direction or another - in a word, make sure it turns out perfect. After acquiring the appropriate skills, you will be able to put the required amount of mortar on the trowel the first time and immediately install the brick in the required place. This way the laying procedure will be completed much faster.

Prices for building bricks

Construction brick

Find out with step-by-step instructions from our new article.

And as a conclusion – a thematic video material.

Video - Proper brick laying

Finishing walls with brick will require certain knowledge, experience and skill. In this regard, it is recommended to first conduct a structural test of a smaller volume. That is, build a brick garage wall yourself, or build a shed on a garden plot.

It is important to know that before laying bricks it is necessary to do the basic waterproofing of the room.

Brickwork: basics of work

As a rule, brick is the main material from which the walls of almost any building are made. It serves as a strong, reliable and comfortable foundation for the structure.

Bricks are divided into standard sizes:

• Single - 65/120/250.
• Double - 140/20/250.
• One and a half truck - 88/120/250.

When decorating walls with brick, situations often arise when it needs to be divided into parts: in half, three-quarters, or a quarter. Sometimes imported materials of non-standard sizes are found on sale.

The brick includes the following faces: ~ average in area;

• the poke is the smallest edge;
• the bed is located parallel to the base of the masonry.

The thickness of brick walls is usually measured in fractions that are multiples of either 1/2 or the whole length of the product. Therefore, the wall being laid out will be half, a whole or one and a half bricks.

When constructing the outer wall, marked bricks are used, which indicates their strength.

They also differ in the degree of frost resistance that one or another material can withstand. This fact directly depends on the climate in which the work is being carried out and the building is located.

The ratio of the amount of brick and mortar for masonry

Before you start laying brick walls, you need to know the costs of the amount of materials. Why do you need to calculate the total perimeter of the building, multiply the figure by the height of the building. The result will be the total area of ​​the external walls.

Of course, brick is resistant to frost and natural precipitation, but it is still better to store it under a roof to prevent moisture from entering. A ventilation gap should be left between the materials.

Self-construction of a brick wall: operating rules

The first step in facing walls with brick is waterproofing between the wall and the base (foundation) of the building. Proper facing of walls with bricks starts from the corner, for which skill is useful.

Each element must be laid using a building level in three planes, after which the evenness of the angle is checked using a plumb line. The bricks can be aligned in the required directions until the mortar is completely dry.

Having laid out two corners on the same plane, it is reasonable to drive a nail into the seam under the topmost brick and tie a lacing to it, which is then tightly attached to the other corner of the wall.

This process helps to lay the masonry perfectly evenly and ensure that the material does not protrude to the sides.

When working, the mortar can be laid both on the brick itself and on the previous row of the wall.

It is important to ensure that the seam under the material is equally even, for which you need to gently tap the brick with the handle of a trowel. And excess mortar from the sides must be carefully removed so as not to stain the wall.

In order to cut the brick, a special hammer is used - a pick or cutter, then the sharp edges are trimmed with a pick.

The edge of a window or doorway is lined with wooden plugs wrapped in roofing felt. Iron corners should be installed in the openings of the external masonry, or strong iron lintels should be installed.

It is worth considering that the seams of walls that will not be plastered in the future must be re-filled properly with mortar.

To make the wall stronger, the seams are bandaged, as shown in the photo of brick walls:

• the chain system involves tying each row of bricks;
• with multi-row dressing, a maximum of six spoon layers are performed.

A lightweight version of brick walls is divided into groups:

• Buildings with two parallel walls. There is either a gap between them, or thermal insulation (insulation) is placed in it.
• A building with one wall, insulated on both sides. The thickness of the masonry with this method can be minimal, since the insulating material provides additional thickness.

Photo of brick walls

Bricklaying has been one of the most respected occupations since ancient times. In order to correctly lay a brick wall, you need to have an accurate eye, be responsible and careful. Initially, this process may seem quite complicated for a non-professional, but if all basic rules and requirements are followed, even a beginner can build a strong and even brick wall.

Brick walls have good sound and heat insulation.

Required materials and tools

Not only the appearance of the building, but also the strength of the walls and the durability of the building depend on the quality of the brickwork. The quality of bricklaying depends on:

• on the quality of the material itself;
• on how well the solution is made;
• on the weather conditions under which the work was carried out.

Outwardly, the process looks very elementary: put the mortar, lay the brick. But besides this, it is necessary to fulfill a number of instructions:

1. The layer of mortar in all places must have a certain thickness, which must be maintained with constant accuracy. This will allow you to achieve a smooth top edge.
2. The brick must be correctly oriented along the three axes of rotation. It must lie strictly parallel to the row being laid, and its outer plane must coincide with the outer plane of the masonry.

In order to lay a brick wall, you must have:

• shovel and trowel;
• a tank in which the solution will be mixed;
• special hammer;
• plumb line, level, order, cord;
• required number of bricks;
• cement;
• water;
• sifted sand.

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Seam thickness and determination of the amount of material

Traditionally, ordinary red (ceramic) brick and white (silicate) brick are used in construction. The dimensions of the red one are 250x120x65 mm. White silicate, as a rule, is produced in one and a half sizes, 250x120x90 mm.

Sand-lime brick has more weight, but this enhances its characteristics such as strength and density, which have a positive effect on sound insulation qualities and safety parameters, which undoubtedly provides large savings in money. This is probably the main point that makes this building material so popular. The disadvantages of sand-lime brick include low thermal conductivity and frost resistance, and high moisture absorption. Walls made of silicate building material “breathe” better, but moisture in the internal cavities of the brick gradually destroys the brick. In addition, the porous surface can create a favorable environment for the proliferation of fungi and bacteria. Sand-lime brick cannot be used in the construction of foundations and plinths.

It is impossible to make an accurate preliminary calculation of the required amount of brick, cement and sand, but it is possible to approximately calculate the volume of material required. The seam between horizontal rows and adjacent bricks should be at least 10-12 mm thick. For beginners, it is better to stick to the parameters 12-15 mm. Having added the thickness of the brick and the thickness of the joints, it is necessary to divide the total height of the future wall by the resulting number. The result will be the number of rows of masonry. in one row is even easier. When you multiply one by the other, you get the approximate number of bricks. It is worth considering that for any repair and construction work it is better to buy material with a 20-30% reserve for battle, etc.

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Preparation of solution and marking

One bucket of ready-made sand-cement mortar (12 liters) is enough for about 14-16 bricks. With a cement grade of 400, the solution can be made in a proportion of ¼ or 1/3, which will add greater strength to the masonry. Of course, most of the sand is taken. Coarse sand quickly precipitates, so it is not recommended to use it, since the mixture turns out to be non-plastic. If there is no choice, you can dissolve washing powder in water (400-450 g per 80-100 l). If the solution will be used when laying facing bricks, it is better to add liquid soap to the water. A good mortar is the key to smooth and high-quality masonry, while a hard mortar will significantly complicate the work, and too greasy one will literally stick to the spatula. There is no need to stir more than 20-30 liters of solution at a time, as it gradually hardens and thickens.

The construction of the wall must begin from the corners. On each of them, 6 rows of masonry should be laid out and connected with a cord, which must be secured with nails. The straightness of the masonry will be controlled using the cord. After tensioning the cord, you can begin installation. To avoid the solution drying out quickly, it should be applied to areas about 1 m long.

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Dressing sutures

Particular attention should be paid to ligation of sutures. Its essence lies in the complete mismatch of seams between bricks in adjacent rows. Performing such a dressing with linear masonry is not difficult. To do this, it is necessary to place half or a third of it at the beginning of the row instead of a whole brick. This will create the necessary shift, and the seams between the bricks will not match.

To tie parallel rows together, in every fifth row a brick should be laid lengthwise across the wall (button row). Place the remaining rows using the spoon method (lengthwise). In this case, it is advisable to make a shift along the width of the brick so that the seams between the bricks do not coincide in either the upper or lower rows. When laying out a bonded row, the solution must be applied in layers, retreating from the sides by 1 cm when filling the seams and by 3 cm when laying in a waste area. For spoon rows, cement is laid in cut strokes, about 20 or 30 m. To simplify the work for beginners, an elementary scheme has been developed: 2 spoon rows - 1 splice - 2 spoon rows - mesh - and so on.

To increase the strength of the walls, reinforcing mesh should be laid periodically; the best option would be to lay it every 5 rows.