Do-it-yourself construction and repairs

Polo front suspension. Volkswagen Polo. Structural nuances of the front suspension. Algorithm for changing stabilization roll cushions

The rear suspension is semi-independent, lever-spring with trailing arms hinged to the car body and interconnected by a transverse beam. The upper and lower ends of the spring rest on elastic rubber pads. Brackets are welded to the levers, to which, in turn, the rear wheel hubs with rear wheel brake shields are attached. In front, bushings are welded to the suspension arms, into which rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) are pressed.

The lower ends of double-acting hydraulic shock absorbers are bolted to the suspension arms. The upper ends of the shock absorbers are attached to the body.

Front suspension

The front suspension is independent, MacPherson strut type, with telescopic shock absorbers, has coil springs, wishbones and a torsion bar anti-roll bar.

The main components of the front suspension are telescopic shock absorber struts, which combine the functions of a telescopic element of the guide mechanism and a damping element for vertical vibrations of the wheel relative to the body.

On shock absorber struts assembled coil springs, compression buffers with protective covers and upper supports with thrust bearings. The load on the car body is transmitted through the upper support. The shock absorber strut is connected to the suspension arm through the steering knuckle with a ball joint.

Anti-roll bar connected to the cross member of the front suspension of the car with two brackets through rubber pads with shock absorber struts.

Levers front suspension are attached to the cross member through the front and rear hinges (silent blocks). The front wheel hubs are mounted on non-adjustable double-row angular contact ball bearings.

Volkswagen Polo sedan front suspension elements: 1 – shock absorber strut; 2 – anti-roll bar strut; 3 – anti-roll bar; 4 – bracket for attaching the stabilizer bar to the subframe; 5 – steering knuckle; 6 – hub unit; 7 – ball joint; 8 – lever; 9 – subframe; 10 – stabilizer bar cushion.

The front suspension is independent, MacPherson-type lever-spring, with telescopic shock absorber struts 4 (, coil springs, wishbones 7, torsion-type anti-roll bar 8. The main elements of the front suspension are telescopic shock absorber struts 4, combining the functions of a telescopic element of the guide mechanism and a damping element of vertical vibrations of the wheel relative to the body.

The shock absorber struts contain coil springs, compression buffers with protective covers, and upper supports with thrust bearings. The load is transferred to the car body through the upper support. The shock absorber strut is connected to the suspension arm 7 through the steering knuckle 5 by a ball joint 6.

Front suspension Polo sedan: 1 - front suspension cross member; 2 - front hinge (silent block) of the lever; 3 - stabilizer bar; 4 - shock absorber strut; 5 - steering knuckle; 6 - ball joint; 7 - front suspension lever; 8 - anti-roll bar; 9 - rear hinge (silent block) of the lever

The anti-roll bar 8 is connected to the cross member of the front suspension of the car with two brackets through rubber pads, and with the shock absorber struts 4 - struts 3.

The front suspension arms 7 are attached to the cross member 1 through the front and rear hinges (silent blocks) 2 and 9. The front wheel hubs are mounted on non-adjustable double-row angular contact ball bearings.

Checking the suspension of the Polo sedan

You will need: a 21 key, a 7 hex key, and a mounting blade. Carry out all checks and work from below the car, mounted on a lift or inspection ditch (with the front wheels hanging). At every maintenance and repairs, it is necessary to check the condition of the protective covers of the suspension ball joints. There should be no mechanical damage on the covers. Find out if there are any cracks or traces of contact with road obstacles or the body on the suspension parts, deformation of the arms, stabilizer bar and its struts, body front parts in the places where the suspension units and parts are attached. Check the condition of the rubber-metal hinges, rubber cushions, suspension joints, and the condition (settlement) of the upper supports of the shock absorber struts. Rubber-metal hinges and rubber cushions must be replaced in case of ruptures and one-sided bulging of rubber, as well as when their end surfaces are trimmed. The location of the front suspension elements on the car is shown in Fig. 7.1. The following are not allowed on rubber suspension parts: - signs of rubber aging; - mechanical damage. The following are not allowed on rubber-metal hinges: - signs of aging, cracks, one-sided bulging of the rubber mass; - separation of the rubber mass from the reinforcement. Replace faulty parts. Pay special attention to mechanical damage (deformations, cracks, etc.) to suspension elements, especially levers. 1. Check the condition of the protective covers of the ball joints. If the boots are damaged, replace the ball joint.

2. Check the ball joints for play. To do this, insert a mounting blade between the steering knuckle and the suspension arm and, leaning on the lever, try to swing the steering knuckle. If there is play in the ball pin, replace the ball joint.

3. Using a mounting spatula, check the condition of the front A and rear B hinges of the front suspension arms. While resting the mounting blade against the cross member, try to swing the suspension arm. If there is play in the rear or front joint, replace 4. Check the condition of the boots on the upper and lower stabilizer bar joints. 5. Check the stabilizer link joints for play.

6. While rocking the anti-roll bar with your hand, check the condition of the pads that attach it to the cross member. If there are knocking noises, replace the pillows.

7. Check the condition of the shock absorber strut protective boot.

8. Check the tightness of the shock absorber rod nut.

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Suspension device Volkswagen Polo sedan

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For 40 years now, craftsmen from Wolfsburg have been delighting fans of the famous German series with their sophisticated and extraordinary works in the field of automotive engineering. One of the masterpieces of German fantasy is undoubtedly the Volkswagen Polo, which has earned countless awards over several generations.

Special attention should be paid to the sedan model. This example of the highest art was created specifically for our Russian roads. The Germans took into account everything - from climatic operating conditions to the condition of the road surface and the quality of fuel resources.

A huge and meticulous work was done by representatives of the German automaker to develop the suspension system for the Polo. It was necessary to create a high-quality unit capable of withstanding extreme road (or more precisely, “off-road”) conditions in Russia. In 2010, hardworking Germans presented the Russians with a new miracle - the Volkswagen Polo sedan, which instantly, starting in the fall, sold out like “hot cakes” to car enthusiasts. The updated suspension played an important role in the rise in sales.

General look at the device

The era of classic double wishbone suspensions is coming to an end. To follow fashion, manufacturers equip their “brainchildren” with new independent installations, called MacPherson. It comes from the name of the famous American engineer from the Ford company.

This is exactly the kind of suspension that the craftsmen from Wolfsburg equipped the Volkswagen Polo sedan on the front. Its design is simple: the same “swinging spark plug” principle on which the shock absorber strut works, one wishbone and a spring located above the steering knuckle axis. All elements that soften the suspension and perform a guiding function are assembled together, forming a compact monolith. This absolutely simple design made it possible to significantly reduce the weight of the unit compared to a “double-lever” and, accordingly, reduce the cost of materials. Therefore, MacPherson today is installed on almost all modern cars - be it compact middle-class models or expensive SUVs.

The Germans also did their best with the rear cross member. Having carefully studied our roads, they developed a completely new semi-independent suspension based on the fourth Golfik. And this is no longer “whatever.” The sedan's track has increased by approximately 34 mm, the strength and endurance of the installation components has increased, as well as its load capacity and control quality. In general, the experiment was a success.

Specifics

The assembly is simple, but good and solid. The struts extended almost the entire length of the shock absorber. The stabilizer is strong and does not hold on honestly– Germans don’t know how to “freeload”. However... The lower control arms are not impressive. Although they are thick, about 3 mm, they do not look very reliable. If the car falls into a deep hole, the “pieces of iron” will bend. The silent blocks are also not too large and it is unknown how many kilometers they can withstand.

Behavior varies depending on the transmission. On automatic transmissions, the MacPherson makes a lot of noise and there is a slight rumble underfoot. Extraneous knocks are especially heard when driving over small bumps and joints. On the “mechanics” everything is much better. Of course, if you listen closely, you can still hear the uneven operation of the unit, but basically the suspension maneuvers are clear, without interruptions.

The location of the independent setup is not very inspiring for off-road driving - the lip of the lower support is quite low. But the sedan was not created to race through forests and fields. The Volkswagen Polo sedan is a purely urban showpiece.

The supports, by the way, are not synchronous and have minor differences in design. An incomprehensible plastic “appendage” under the Polo’s wings catches the eye. The distance to the road is about 15 cm. Probably protects the components from clogging and small stones.

The Polo sedan has a standard ground clearance of 170 mm. It will be quite suitable for Russian roads. A few words about the brakes. The front part is equipped with conventional ventilated disc devices, the rear part is equipped with drums. The drum brakes are large, practical, and also manufactured taking into account the conditions of Russian roads. The bolts that hold the wheels have special attachments that prevent the formation of deposits on the fasteners. To remove the bolts, there is the necessary tool in the trunk.

The bottom line is this: MacPherson front suspension is a trending innovation in all modern cars. High quality, light and inexpensive. The disadvantage lies in the design of the unit: due to the large range of roll created during sharp turns, problems with the car’s handling may occur. Adding fuel to the fire is the visual unreliability of some elements, which can confuse the consumer before purchasing.

The rear beam is also an evolutionary discovery in the automotive industry, which made it possible to reduce the cost of suspension materials. Installation of the suspension is simple and easy to repair. The disadvantage of the rear part is that the design worsens the overall sound insulation of the sedan.

In general, the Germans have created a standard device designed for the Russian climate, mounted on most models coming off the industrial assembly line.

Front suspension - logbook of the 2013 Volkswagen Polo Sedan Air on DRIVE2


I ordered bilstein b4 front struts, strut mounts, support bearings, stabilizer links, bilstein b4 rear shock absorbers, rear bump stops from Exist today. From this entire list, everything on the front suspension was available, and that’s what the entry will be about. The installation process is in the photo. I can say from the sensations that it has become very comfortable, right now it doesn’t break through the struts, the face doesn’t jump, in general the suspension works as it should, it’s moderately stiff. The only negative is that the muzzle has risen by 1-1.3 cm, which is not good for me, well, I hope that over time it will return to its previous position. Rear shock absorbers and bump stops will arrive in two days, next. There will be a post about it, and I’ll tell you what the overall feeling will be.








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Front suspension - logbook of the 2013 Volkswagen Polo Sedan on DRIVE2

And so I’ll start with the fact that I’ve driven 68 thousand, and I started to notice that knocks (blinks) are making their way from somewhere. I drive into the pit and pull and knock everything I can, basically everything is ideal, as some people say, and OD is also under this dances the pipe.

While driving and on the Polo Sedan forum there are a lot of words about our suspension, but it is not soft, but not hard either - average. Somewhere around 30-35 thousand I discovered a play in the rack, but did not repair it, as I think new car but the rack was screwed, and then the day came when I overhauled it, i.e. replaced the bushing with a fluoroplastic one.

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Our Chineseness

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Pressed in the bushing.

I won’t write about the replacement; there is plenty of information on the network about the replacement; the only thing I will say is that there is nothing supernatural.

Also, during the repair, it was discovered that the salen blocks were cracked, and the knock that really bothered me in the winter was the knock of the front shock absorber supports. It was decided to replace the salen blocks and supports even before the pile.

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Salenblocks front and rear

Replacing the salen blocks is also not difficult, I ground out the pieces of iron and used them to replace them without any hassle.

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Pressing process.

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Cracked salenblocks, there are tears.

A few words about the left lever; I had to jack up the automatic transmission to remove the bolt from the front clutch.

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This is the automatic transmission cushion, it was changed under warranty.

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Let's jack up the automatic transmission.

Salenty replaced all the levers in their rightful place, and then it was the turn of the supports, no such luck, I got the hang of these supports, broke all the hexagons that were there, the hexagons are not simple, but 7. I unscrewed them on the machine itself I couldn’t do that, I had to remove the racks, I also suffered a bit, but all the same, both supports were replaced.

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Comparison of new and old support.

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The bearing was filled with grease.

I also changed the stub struts; by the way, I broke one when I was screwing it on. I had to buy more.

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The stub racks, the old ones still seem to be alive, but have been completely replaced.

After all the procedures, I made a descent; nothing else is regulated on our car, because... the manufacturer took all this into account in the design of the suspension, according to the indicators everything turned out to be within the tolerances. Now I’ll say what happened, but it turned out very well, all the knocks (blips) remained in the garage, the suspension is now as it was before, there’s no knocking on anything or anywhere , and does not rattle, the only shock absorbers are on a solid 3, but they are working for now. I’ve been riding for a week now and I’ll say that it’s not in vain that I lived in the garage for 2 days.

ALL THE GOOD AND BOBLA!

Price: 100,500₽ Mileage: 68,976 km

— Why do criminal groups often have no drummers?
- Because in their world it is difficult to find a person who agrees to sit and knock!
Conversation at the music school

Knocking in the suspension can be different. There can be a great many reasons for its occurrence, so we ask Volkswagen car owners in advance not to be offended by us when we do not diagnose over the phone, but offer to come to us and find the fault on the spot. This Volkswagen Polo Sedan I contacted him because there was a strange, noticeable knocking noise from the front.

Given:

  • Car: Volkswagen Polo Sedan
  • Year of manufacture: 2011
  • Model year: 2012
  • Engine: CFNA (1.6 l., 1598 cc, 105 hp)
  • ICE features: 16-valve, multi-point injection MPI
  • Gearbox: MFZ
  • Quattro differential: No
  • Preselective robotic gearbox DSG: No
  • Mileage: 41,000 kilometers

Required:

  • Find and eliminate knocking in the suspension

We will figure out what is knocking and where. First, we drive the Polo Sedan into the repair area of ​​your V×M service.

As usual, first comes the incoming inspection, which consists of computer and instrumental diagnostics.


Volkswagen Polo for diagnostics

There are no errors in the operation of the electronic systems, the car is in excellent condition, so we lift it up and start looking for what’s wrong with the chassis. We know several dozen childhood diseases of this car, so the fault was found in three and a half minutes.


Volkswagen Polo front pillar

The nature and location of the knocking indicated damage to the front shock absorber support elements.


Volkswagen Polo front shock absorber support

From the outside, everything looked decent, but when we managed to manually reproduce this particular knock, there was no longer any doubt. We disassemble the rack support.


VW Polo strut support

The support bearing simply fell apart in our hands! Also on this side we noticed severe deformation of the damping element of the strut support. This led to the disintegration of the bearing. Where does the knock come from then, you ask? Very simple!

Very often, the knock of the shock absorber is confused with the knock of the supports, not only by drivers, but also by experienced car mechanics. We can’t speak for other brands, but in VAG it’s impossible to confuse these two sounds. The stand and its support knock very differently. Usually it is the support that starts knocking first. Let's take a look at the elements that make up the Rack Support assembly.


VW Polo suspension strut support

On the left, the support (OEM) lies separately, on the right, the support bearing (OEM) is inserted into the support. We see that the support itself on the Volkswagen Polo Sedan is a rather impressive rubber part of a complex shape. This is necessary in order to dampen vibrations coming from the wheel (through the shock absorber rod) to the car body. The shock absorber is designed so that its operation is inertial. Try pushing down the shock absorber rod different ways, and you will understand what we mean. First, try to do it sharply and quickly. For example, with a hammer. It's unlikely that this will work. The shock absorber will spring back. After that, try to do it slowly. The shock absorber will give in and the rod will begin to move inward.

The same thing happens on the road. The shock absorber, due to its structure, does not absorb sudden and short movements. This makes him a prop! Contrary to popular belief, the main purpose of a shock absorber is to maintain constant contact between the wheel and the road. Vibration damping is by-effect. That is, the main purpose of the shock absorber is to preserve not comfort, but life! But for comfort, the very same support that is often underestimated serves.

Over time, the support material ages and loses its damping properties. The shocks are absorbed worse, they begin to be transmitted to the car body, and we begin to hear a knock.

We replaced the strut supports (of course, in pairs, since this is a paired part, and we do not allow ourselves to deviate from technology) with bearings and nuts (OEM), after which the knocking stopped. After replacing the supports, it is necessary to adjust the wheel alignment! The collapse was also done.

Time required: 3 hours. Price 9700 rubles.

The front suspension is independent, MacPherson strut type, with telescopic shock absorber struts 4 (, coil springs, wishbones 7, anti-roll bar 8 torsion bar type.

The main elements of the front suspension are telescopic shock absorber struts 4, combining the functions of a telescopic element of the guide mechanism and a damping element for vertical vibrations of the wheel relative to the body.

The shock absorber struts contain coil springs, compression buffers with protective covers, and upper supports with thrust bearings. The load is transferred to the car body through the upper support. The shock absorber strut is connected to the suspension arm 7 through the steering knuckle 5 by a ball joint 6.

Front suspension Polo sedan: 1 - front suspension cross member; 2 - front hinge (silent block) of the lever; 3 - stabilizer bar; 4 - shock absorber strut; 5 - steering knuckle; 6 - ball joint; 7 - front suspension lever; 8 - anti-roll bar; 9 - rear hinge (silent block) of the lever

The anti-roll bar 8 is connected to the cross member of the front suspension of the car with two brackets through rubber pads, and with the shock absorber struts 4 - struts 3.

The front suspension arms 7 are attached to the cross member 1 through the front and rear hinges (silent blocks) 2 and 9. The front wheel hubs are mounted on non-adjustable double-row angular contact ball bearings.


You will need: a 21 key, a 7 hex key, and a mounting blade.

Carry out all checks and work from below the car, mounted on a lift or inspection ditch (with the front wheels hanging).

During each maintenance and repair, it is necessary to check the condition of the protective covers of the suspension ball joints. There should be no mechanical damage on the covers.

Find out if there are any cracks or traces of contact with road obstacles or the body on the suspension parts, deformation of the arms, stabilizer bar and its struts, body front parts in the places where the suspension units and parts are attached.

Check the condition of the rubber-metal hinges, rubber cushions, suspension joints, and the condition (settlement) of the upper supports of the shock absorber struts.

Rubber-metal hinges and rubber cushions must be replaced in case of ruptures and one-sided bulging of rubber, as well as when their end surfaces are trimmed.

The location of the front suspension elements on the car is shown in Fig. 7.1.

Suspensions on rubber parts are not allowed:

Signs of aging rubber;

Mechanical damage.

The following are not allowed on rubber-metal hinges:

Signs of aging, cracks, one-sided bulging of the rubber mass;

Separation of the rubber mass from the reinforcement. Replace faulty parts.

Pay special attention to mechanical damage (deformations, cracks, etc.) to suspension elements, especially levers.
1. Check the condition of the protective covers of the ball joints. If the boots are damaged, replace the ball joint.
2. Check the ball joints for play. To do this, insert a mounting blade between the steering knuckle and the suspension arm and, leaning on the lever, try to swing the steering knuckle. If there is play in the ball pin, replace the ball joint.

3. Using a mounting spatula, check the condition of the front A and rear B hinges of the front suspension arms. While resting the mounting blade against the cross member, try to swing the suspension arm. If there is play in the rear or front joint, replace

4. Check the condition of the covers of the upper and lower hinges of the anti-roll bar struts.
5. Check the stabilizer link joints for play.
6. While rocking the anti-roll bar with your hand, check the condition of the pads that attach it to the cross member. If there are knocking noises, replace the pillows.

7. Check the condition of the shock absorber strut protective boot.
8. Check the tightness of the shock absorber rod nut.

The suspension is considered one of the most important components of a car. The German quality of the Volkswagen Polo inspires confidence and wins over car enthusiasts. But, like any other part, the suspension has both a number of advantages and a number of significant disadvantages. Let's look at the design and nuances of using the part.

Part Features

The front suspension is made of the MacPherson type - according to the standard “swinging candle” principle, above which there is a shock absorber strut, a spring above the steering knuckle axis and a wishbone. The listed elements represent a compact monolith and perform a guiding function. The simplicity of the design made it possible not only to reduce the weight of the unit (compared to the “double-lever” system), but also to significantly reduce the cost of materials spent in production.

The rear suspension is semi-independent. The strength and endurance of the elements has been significantly increased, and the track has been increased by thirty-four millimeters. Thanks to this, the vehicle has high quality control and sufficient load capacity. The suspension is quite firm (for example, compared to the Renault Logan), but thanks to this feature the transmission can successfully “show its agility”.

Nuances and inconveniences

To be more specific, we note that the lower control arms are not impressive. Despite their sufficient thickness, there is no point in talking about reliability. The same can be said about silent blocks - they are not large enough, which means it is problematic to determine their wear resistance. But the stabilizer is durable and well secured, and the struts are firmly attached to the shock absorber.

This is not the best option for off-road driving - this is due to the fact that the lip of the lower support is fixed low and can be damaged. By the way, the supports are not synchronous, and there are serious differences in their design. It is difficult to notice them with the naked eye, but possible. This design feature is provided for vehicle safety.

The standard ground clearance of one hundred and seventy millimeters is perfect for Russian roads and will not cause inconvenience. As for the brakes, there are drums at the rear and standard ventilated discs at the front. The rear parts are practical and large, as they are produced taking into account the characteristics of Russian roads. Bolts with special nozzles, which allows you to minimize or completely avoid the appearance of plaque. To dismantle them, you will have to use a special tool (included in the kit).

Speaking about the behavior of the component, you need to know that with an automatic transmission the MacPherson is quite noisy - the car owner can discern a barely noticeable rumble underfoot, and extraneous knocks become even more audible when driving on uneven asphalt. When using “mechanics” the number of sounds is reduced. In this case, the suspension maneuvers are more precise, and there are practically no interruptions.

Front suspension problems

According to the experience of owners, with sufficient mileage, a knocking sound may occur in the steering rack. To identify the malfunction, turn the steering wheel to the left (as far as it will go) and start driving. If you experience knocking or other strange sounds, it is better to contact your dealer.

Often the stabilizer link fails. A characteristic sign of a breakdown is dull knocks or rattling noises when driving on an uneven surface. You can change the stabilizer bar on a Volkswagen Polo in any showroom, and its price will not exceed two to three thousand rubles.

Shock absorbers can also be called a weakness of the suspension. This element often fails: knocking noises occur. If the side member and shock absorber come into contact, corrosion and abrasion of the coating may occur. It is important to monitor the point of contact and prevent the metal from rusting.

The front part of the suspension creaks in cold weather. This is due to the fact that the rubber bands of the silent sides “freeze” and begin to make strange sounds. The solution to the problem is timely lubrication of rubber-metal hinges.

But the stabilizer bushing may begin to make strange squeaks even at above-zero temperatures. Its replacement is carried out under warranty, but it is conventionally assumed that the new part will not last more than a year. Alternatively, you can lubricate the bushing with graphite grease or silicone. Unfortunately, such measures are not suitable for all cars.

Rear suspension problems

The rear suspension cannot withstand heavy loads. Silent bolts also wear out quickly, which leads to noise. The problem is corrected in the same way as the front suspension. It is worth replacing silent blocks after thirty to forty thousand mileage.

The front window regulator occasionally stops functioning correctly. Changing the mechanism under warranty will be problematic. The EUR periodically stops working. In this case, it is enough to replace it.

Summary

The Volkswagen Polo suspension has a number of significant shortcomings that spoil the impression of using the car. For example, unpleasant knocks and squeaks when driving are a common “disease” of a sedan, which means the ride will not be so comfortable. Knocks and squeaks disappear if you replace the faulty part or lubricate it - this usually takes no more than half an hour.

At the same time, the suspension parts are made of durable and practical materials, and its design is perfectly suited to Russian roads. With proper care and attention paid to the car, the suspension will last thousands and tens of thousands of kilometers.