Do-it-yourself construction and repairs

Do bell peppers turn red? Why don’t peppers turn red in greenhouses and open ground, what to do. Scheme of planting peppers in a greenhouse

Growing bell peppers in a greenhouse provides many advantages:

  • Possibility of early planting of seedlings, which leads to rapid fruit set;
  • In a greenhouse, you can maintain a stable microclimate - in the open air there are often sudden changes in temperature, and this is detrimental to sweet peppers;
  • Plants are protected from cold winds, rain and unwanted dew, so diseases on peppers are rare;
  • Caring for plants indoors is minimal.

The plants in the greenhouse are protected from all natural disasters, and the further productivity of sweet peppers depends on how well they are cared for.

Greenhouses made of polycarbonate are preferable to greenhouses made of other materials. Sunlight penetrating through the double material is diffused and does not cause burns on the leaves of bell pepper. In addition, the air temperature in a polycarbonate greenhouse does not rise too high in the heat, and the lighting is uniform over the entire area.

Tips for installing a polycarbonate greenhouse:

  • The shape is preferably semicircular (arched) - in winter time a thick layer of snow does not linger on it;
  • To ensure strength and long service life, fastening polycarbonate sheets to the frame must be carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

The technical characteristics of cellular polycarbonate prevent damage to the greenhouse from hail.

Timing for planting peppers in a greenhouse

Peppers are grown in a greenhouse using the seedling method. You can plant seedlings that are 60 to 70 days old. Each seedling must have at least 10 leaves.

The time for planting seedlings is mid-May, but it would be correct to base it on the stable air temperature in the greenhouse. When the thermometer in the greenhouse stops dropping below 10-12°, bell pepper it's time to plant.

If in warm areas the greenhouse warms up already at the end of April or at the beginning of May, then in colder areas - in Leningrad, the Urals and other regions - this may take until the end of May or the beginning of June.

The solution in this case is to create warm beds in the greenhouse. They are prepared in the fall. The top layer of soil is removed to a depth of 20-30 cm. Plant material is placed at the bottom of the beds - small branches, straw, fallen leaves, humus. The top is covered with fertile soil. The beds are watered with water to start the process of decomposition of plant residues.

In winter, it is necessary to throw snow on the beds. In the spring, when the air in the greenhouse warms up, the snow will begin to melt. This will moisten the soil, so there is no need to water it before planting the seedlings.

Scheme of planting peppers in a greenhouse

The planting scheme for sweet peppers is selected depending on the variety and method of intended cultivation: in one or several trunks.

Space in the greenhouse is limited, so it would be wise to choose tall varieties of bell peppers. They are grown in two or three trunks; the growth of additional shoots is inhibited by pinching. The distance between such plants should be at least 40 cm.

Low-growing peppers grown in two trunks can be planted closer to each other - 25-30 cm between them.

To make caring for plants easy, the distance between the beds should not be small. Optimally - 70-80 cm, and the planting pattern is chosen at will.

The planting pattern may be limited by the size of the greenhouse. If it is small, then it would be correct to make narrow beds along the walls and plant the seedlings in one line or in a checkerboard pattern. In the center of the greenhouse, a wide bed is preferable, and the planting pattern is two-row.

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

Before planting bell peppers in a greenhouse, they must be accustomed to the bright sun. A week before planting, boxes with seedlings begin to be placed in the sun. They do this gradually. The first sunbath should not exceed two hours, each next day the time spent in the sun increases by 2.5 hours.

Planting peppers in a greenhouse is carried out on a cloudy day or in the evening. The day before transplanting, the pots with seedlings should be watered. Replanting should be done carefully, trying not to damage the lump of earth. Bell peppers do not always withstand root damage and take a long time to recover.

For the first three days, the transplanted plants are not watered.

Pepper seedlings need to be planted in the soil at the same depth as they grew in the seedling box. They cannot be buried.

Caring for peppers in a greenhouse

Caring for peppers in a greenhouse is not difficult, but requires a competent approach.

For sweet peppers it is important:

  • Bright lighting, because if there is a lack of light, the fruits do not set;
  • Fertile soil - only with sufficient nutrition are smooth, full-fledged fruits formed;
  • Fresh air - without ventilation appear fungal diseases, which are dangerous for the entire pepper planting.

Drying out the soil for a long time is unacceptable.

Care should be regular and includes:

  • Watering;
  • Ventilation;
  • Loosening;
  • Formation of bushes and pinching;
  • Feeding;
  • Detecting the disease at an early stage and combating it.

Watering is best done in the morning so that the moisture evaporates by evening. Water only at the root using a watering can, hose or drip irrigation. When watering with a hose, do not use a strong stream of water, which can wash away the soil and expose the roots.

Pepper does not require frequent watering - it is enough to water once every five days. In hot weather, plantings in the greenhouse can be watered additionally.

Some time after watering, the soil must be loosened. The roots breathe, loosening prevents them from rotting. Maintenance can be made easier if loosening is replaced with mulching. In addition, mulch will protect the soil from overheating.

Ventilation is carried out to maintain a stable temperature inside the greenhouse and prevent fungal diseases. Humid air contributes to the rapid development of the disease. In addition to ventilation, removing excess foliage and pinching provide a flow of fresh air to the plants.

Feeding plants in a greenhouse is no less important than feeding peppers grown outdoors. It is preferable to feed with infusion organic fertilizers. It is carried out once every two to three weeks.

Top dressing mineral fertilizer held in the second half of summer. To increase fruit mass and ripeness, the fertilizer must be complex.

Care also involves tying up shoots. Pepper shoots are very brittle; they break under the weight of the fruit. As a support, you can use stakes (one for each bush), or a trellis installed over the entire bed.

Stepping and removing excess foliage

Caring for peppers such as pinching remains controversial for many. But for plants in a greenhouse, pinching has more advantages than disadvantages:

  • Thinning plantings provides access to air and light;
  • With a large number of shoots on one plant, the fruits do not have enough nutrition, they grow poorly, become deformed, and many ovaries fall off.

When growing peppers in open ground At a great distance from each other, pinching may not be carried out, but in a limited space it is necessary to do so.

Removing weak shoots will direct nutrition and moisture to the growth of large, high-quality fruits and provide the peppers with access to the sun, which is necessary for ripening. Thinning the crown will protect plants from many diseases.

When the plant reaches a height of 25-30 cm, pinch off its top. This gives impetus to the growth of side shoots. When the shoots grow 10-15 cm, pinching begins. All side shoots located below 20 cm are removed. Of the rest, 2-3 of the strongest are left. Those that are directed inside the crown do not have ovaries, are underdeveloped - they break out. In addition, the foliage that is located below the branching of the shoots is removed.

The first formed fruit is removed. If left, it will grow large, but will stunt the growth of other peppers because it will take away most of the nutrition.

Pruning is carried out in stages, at one time some of the shoots that thicken the crown are removed, after a few days the weak ones are broken out, and then the foliage is torn off. This will help the plant avoid shock.

Stepsoning low-growing varieties You don’t have to do this, but you need to increase the distance between plants when planting or carry out additional fertilizing.

Conclusion

For heat-loving peppers, growing in a greenhouse is preferable to growing outdoors. Only in greenhouse conditions can a suitable microclimate be created in which many fruits are set.

But in order for the fruit to form fully, reach biological maturity and meet the declared qualities of the variety, competent and regular care is required.

How to speed up the ripening of peppers in a greenhouse; effective ways to pick fruits; how to harvest pho

How to speed up the ripening of peppers in a greenhouse? This question is especially relevant at the end of summer, when garlands of green fruits hang on the bushes, and the nights are already short and cool.

  • 1 What is the ripeness of pepper?
  • 2 Care as a way to accelerate maturation
  • 3 Growing peppers in a greenhouse (video)
  • 4 How to speed up the ripening of peppers
  • 5 Caring for sweet peppers (video)

What is the ripeness of pepper?

Sweet or bell peppers are vegetables whose fruits can be eaten in any form. However, you only need to collect those fruits that are completely ripe.

There are two degrees of ripeness - biological and technical.

The second degree of ripeness is the state of vegetables or fruits at which they can be harvested, stored or processed.

Biological maturity is an analogue of reproductive maturity, that is, the state in which seeds complete their development cycle and acquire the ability to reproduce.

Some plants have the same technical and biological ripeness, while others do not. For example, cucumbers are harvested only at the stage of technical ripeness, watermelons - at the biological stage. Peppers are among those plants in which technical and biological ripeness predominantly coincide, although they can be harvested before reaching the seed ripening stage.

For most vegetables, ripeness is determined by the color and size of the fruit. For example, cucumbers are harvested only when they are green and preferably small. Determining the technical ripeness of peppers is quite difficult. This is explained by the large number of varieties whose fruits have colors:

  • Green;
  • Yellow;
  • Red;
  • Orange;
  • Violet.

Thus, signs of technical ripeness in pepper can be determined by the color of the fruits of a given variety, their size and shape.

Healthy adult pepper bushes produce fruits reaching a length of about 10 cm. The volume of peppers depends on the variety - long and elongated fruits in their widest part reach no more than 5 cm. The size of wide, almost round fruits can be measured by such a thing as diameter. Normally, it ranges from 7 to 10 cm. Sick, underdeveloped bushes produce small, irregularly shaped fruits.

Another distinctive sign of achieving the desired ripeness is the thickness of the walls of the fruit. It should reach a size of 1-2 cm. Young, unripe or diseased peppers have very thin walls, not exceeding 0.3-0.5 cm.

Care as a way to accelerate maturation

All manipulations to accelerate the ripening of peppers can be divided into two parts - careful care and special stimulating measures. Good comprehensive care is measures to prevent delays in bush growth and fruit ripening.

Caring for peppers includes the following mandatory measures.

  • Watering. Proper and regular watering is the key to obtaining a full harvest. Peppers in a greenhouse do not receive water from precipitation, so it is advisable to provide them with capillary watering. Despite the fact that these plants come from the tropical zone, they should not be watered too much - fungal and bacterial diseases may appear.
  • Landing. There is a rule for each plant - the sooner it is planted in the ground, the faster it begins to bear fruit. It is only partly true. Planting too early in cold soil and changes in daily temperatures inhibit plant growth, reduce yields and delay biological and technical ripeness. In this case, another rule is relevant - you need to plant pepper seedlings in open ground at the beginning of real summer, when a consistently comfortable temperature is established.
  • Lighting. As practice shows, it is possible to accelerate the ripening of peppers provided there is sufficient lighting. It is necessary to plant plants at a large distance from each other so that they do not shade neighboring bushes. It is better to place tall varieties in the center of the greenhouse, and low-growing varieties - along the edges. Unthickened plantings are better ventilated, which reduces the risk of fungal diseases.
  • The soil. Peppers need loose, fertile soil with a neutral reaction. To increase the yield of this vegetable and reduce its ripening time, you need to regularly add organic and mineral fertilizers to the soil.
  • These are the basic conditions, by creating which you can begin to achieve an earlier harvest or accelerate the ripening of fruits before the onset of autumn cold.

    Growing peppers in a greenhouse (video)

    How to speed up the ripening of peppers

    Peppers in a greenhouse may start ripening earlier and finish later. You can gain two weeks in an unheated greenhouse. In a heated greenhouse, under certain conditions, crops can be obtained all year round.

    In order to make peppers bear fruit longer than the climate allows, you can resort to the following tricks.

    Topping. Its essence is to force the plant to save its energy, directing all resources to the speedy ripening of fruits. They do this throughout the growing season, namely:

    • When the bush is still small, it is necessary to remove the crown bud;
    • During active flowering, you need to pick off the barren flowers;
    • During the entire growth period, excess growth must be removed;
    • At the end of summer, remove all flowers;
    • If it’s clear that cold weather is coming soon, you need to collect small peppers (they won’t ripen anyway).
  • Covering. When the first cold weather sets in, the bed of peppers should be covered at night or on cold days. non-woven material. This creates special greenhouse conditions under which the plant can direct all its strength to the growth and ripening of fruits.
  • Temperature regulation. If in hot July there is no particular trouble with peppers and other capricious plants, then at the end of August and September you need to constantly monitor the temperature in the greenhouse. In sunny weather, the greenhouse must be ventilated and must be closed at night. If peppers grow in open ground, then you can take a chance and transplant them into a greenhouse. You just need to do this carefully, with a large lump of earth.
  • Watering with warm water. Some room owners ornamental plants are resorting to a risky method of reviving their pets by pouring hot water on them. If the plant does not die from such methods, then it actually begins to actively grow and bloom. Of course, you shouldn’t pour boiling water under the roots, but you can and should water the bushes in cold weather with water at a temperature of 40-60°.
  • Foliar feeding of the ground part of the bush. Periodically, peppers need to be sprayed with a weak solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or an infusion of ash. Also for foliar feeding You can use special fruit formation stimulants, for example, Bud or Ovary. However, it is not worth using them at the end of summer and, especially in the fall - they will only delay the ripening of existing fruits.
  • Harvesting. In order for the plant not to waste energy on maintaining already ripe fruits, they need to be removed immediately after reaching technical ripeness.
  • Thus, the range of methods and means that accelerate the ripening of peppers is not so large. All of them are collectively effective and, most importantly, safe and accessible.

    Caring for sweet peppers (video)

    How to speed up the ripening of peppers in a greenhouse? This question is especially relevant at the end of summer, when garlands of green fruits hang on the bushes, and the nights are already short and cool.

    Sweet or bell peppers are vegetables whose fruits can be eaten in any form. However, you only need to collect those fruits that are completely ripe.

    The second degree of ripeness is the state of vegetables or fruits at which they can be harvested, stored or processed.

    Biological maturity is an analogue of reproductive maturity, that is, the state in which seeds complete their development cycle and acquire the ability to reproduce.

    Some plants have the same technical and biological ripeness, while others do not. For example, cucumbers are harvested only at the stage of technical ripeness, watermelons - at the biological stage. Peppers are among those plants in which technical and biological ripeness predominantly coincide, although they can be harvested before reaching the seed ripening stage.

    For most vegetables, ripeness is determined by the color and size of the fruit. For example, cucumbers are harvested only when they are green and preferably small. Determining the technical ripeness of peppers is quite difficult. This is explained by the large number of varieties whose fruits have colors:

    • green;
    • yellow;
    • red;
    • orange;
    • violet.

    Thus, signs of technical ripeness in pepper can be determined by the color of the fruits of a given variety, their size and shape.

    Healthy adult pepper bushes produce fruits reaching a length of about 10 cm. The volume of peppers depends on the variety - long and elongated fruits in their widest part reach no more than 5 cm. The size of wide, almost round fruits can be measured by such a thing as diameter. Normally, it ranges from 7 to 10 cm. Sick, underdeveloped bushes produce small, irregularly shaped fruits.

    Another distinctive sign of achieving the desired ripeness is the thickness of the walls of the fruit. It should reach a size of 1-2 cm. Young, unripe or diseased peppers have very thin walls, not exceeding 0.3-0.5 cm.

    Care as a way to accelerate maturation

    All manipulations to accelerate the ripening of peppers can be divided into two parts - careful care and special stimulating measures. Good comprehensive care is measures to prevent delays in bush growth and fruit ripening.

    Caring for peppers includes the following mandatory measures.

    1. Watering. Proper and regular watering is the key to obtaining a full harvest. Peppers in a greenhouse do not receive water from precipitation, so it is advisable to provide them with capillary watering. Despite the fact that these plants come from the tropical zone, they should not be watered too much - fungal and bacterial diseases may appear.
    2. Landing. There is a rule for each plant - the sooner it is planted in the ground, the faster it begins to bear fruit. It is only partly true. Planting too early in cold soil and changes in daily temperatures inhibit plant growth, reduce yields and delay biological and technical ripeness. In this case, another rule is relevant - you need to plant pepper seedlings in open ground at the beginning of real summer, when a consistently comfortable temperature is established.
    3. Lighting. As practice shows, it is possible to accelerate the ripening of peppers provided there is sufficient lighting. It is necessary to plant plants at a large distance from each other so that they do not shade neighboring bushes. It is better to place tall varieties in the center of the greenhouse, and low-growing varieties - along the edges. Unthickened plantings are better ventilated, which reduces the risk of fungal diseases.
    4. The soil. Peppers need loose, fertile soil with a neutral reaction. To increase the yield of this vegetable and reduce its ripening time, you need to regularly add organic and mineral fertilizers to the soil.

    These are the basic conditions, by creating which you can begin to achieve an earlier harvest or accelerate the ripening of fruits before the onset of autumn cold.

    Growing peppers in a greenhouse (video)

    How to speed up the ripening of peppers

    Peppers in a greenhouse may start ripening earlier and finish later. You can gain two weeks in an unheated greenhouse. In a heated greenhouse, under certain conditions, crops can be obtained all year round.

    In order to make peppers bear fruit longer than the climate allows, you can resort to the following tricks.

    Topping. Its essence is to force the plant to save its energy, directing all resources to the speedy ripening of fruits. They do this throughout the growing season, namely:

    • when the bush is still small, it is necessary to remove the crown bud;
    • during active flowering, barren flowers need to be picked;
    • During the entire growth period, excess growth must be removed;
    • at the end of summer, remove all flowers;
    • if it’s clear that cold weather is coming soon, you need to collect small peppers (they won’t ripen anyway).
    1. Covering. When the first cold weather sets in, the bed of peppers should be covered at night or on cold days with non-woven material. This creates special greenhouse conditions under which the plant can direct all its strength to the growth and ripening of fruits.
    2. Temperature regulation. If in hot July there is no particular trouble with peppers and other capricious plants, then at the end of August and September you need to constantly monitor the temperature in the greenhouse. In sunny weather, the greenhouse must be ventilated and must be closed at night. If peppers grow in open ground, then you can take a chance and transplant them into a greenhouse. You just need to do this carefully, with a large lump of earth.
    3. Watering with warm water. Some owners of indoor ornamental plants resort to a risky method of reviving their pets by watering them with hot water. If the plant does not die from such methods, then it actually begins to actively grow and bloom. Of course, you shouldn’t pour boiling water under the roots, but you can and should water the bushes in cold weather with water at a temperature of 40-60°.
    4. Foliar feeding of the ground part of the bush. Periodically, peppers need to be sprayed with a weak solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or an infusion of ash. Also, for foliar feeding, you can use special fruit formation stimulants, for example, Bud or Ovary. However, it is not worth using them at the end of summer and, especially in the fall - they will only delay the ripening of existing fruits.
    5. Harvesting. In order for the plant not to waste energy on maintaining already ripe fruits, they need to be removed immediately after reaching technical ripeness.

    Thus, the range of methods and means that accelerate the ripening of peppers is not so large. All of them are collectively effective and, most importantly, safe and accessible.

    Caring for sweet peppers (video)

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    When peppers don't turn red for a long time, this is a fairly common problem. If the variety matches, you need to look into a number of other reasons.

    Pepper ripening stages

    If some peppers in the garden do not turn red, you should find out what color the fruits of this variety are (orange, yellow, green or red). Next, what variety is early or mid-season. In colder regions, farmers recommend cultivating early varieties. In hot climatic conditions in the south of the country, gardeners grow mid-season peppers.

    Hybrid varieties are best suited for greenhouses. They tolerate temperature changes well and have strong immunity to pests and diseases. In addition, hybrids have a distinctive tasty taste.

    .

    Not all summer residents know that this crop has two periods of maturity:

    Sweet peppers are almost always harvested at the first stage of ripeness. Such fruits can be stored for a whole month, they do not spoil or wrinkle. Then, when ripe vegetables do not last long. If the sweet pepper is not red, it is collected from the garden and placed in shallow boxes in two layers. The bottom and sides of the boxes should be wrapped with newsprint. Place the container with fruits in a warm and shaded place. Such a crop must be looked after with great responsibility. Otherwise, when he doesn’t like something, he will easily discard the still unripe ovary.

    Growing conditions for peppers to fully ripen

    If the pepper fruits are already quite large, but still not red, it may be this variety. Their biological time has not yet come and we need to wait a little longer. It is very important to comply with all growing conditions. This fastidious culture is too demanding of itself. and if the bell pepper has not yet turned red, it may simply not have enough potassium fertilizer or sun. To do this, add commercial mineral bait or simply water the bush with wood ash diluted in water. The ratio of the solution per 10 liters of water is 1 cup of ash.

    For proper and timely ripening of fruits, the plant needs 12 hours of daylight. Daytime the temperature should not exceed +30 degrees and not lower than +25. At night, the thermometer should not fall below 15 degrees. Otherwise, the culture will freeze and stop developing. It is also necessary to remove all unnecessary ovaries from the bush so that they do not take away excess strength for the ripening of the fruit.

    Timely watering is very important, especially during the ripening period of peppers. Irrigation is carried out only with warm water heated to +25 degrees. Many gardeners fill containers with liquid, and by evening it warms up in the sun and is ready for watering. If there are no such containers, then the water must be heated. It is extremely necessary to maintain the watering temperature so that the plant does not stop developing. When hot peppers do not turn red for a long time, the peppercorns must be kept on the bushes until fully ripe and not picked like sweet fruits. It is under such conditions that they accumulate their burning substances.

    Therefore, bushes of burning varieties are kept in the garden, covered and wrapped at night so that they do not freeze. If climatic conditions no longer allow keeping the plant in open ground, you need to carefully transplant it into a pot and take it indoors. Those crops that are cultivated in greenhouses must be provided with the correct temperature and lighting.

    Some tricks for making peppers turn red faster

    You should put a couple of red fruits in the boxes with folded and unripe sweet peppers. It could be a couple of tomatoes, red apples or the same, but only red peppers. The top is covered tightly with newspaper.

    The ruddy sides of the peppers will begin to appear after just one week. The accumulated ethylene in scarlet fruits will spread throughout all vegetables and promotes rapid ripening. It is very important that the vegetables lie in bulk all together. If each of them is wrapped separately in newspaper, nothing will happen. The best stimulants for ripening are red apples, so they are not recommended to be placed next to already ripe vegetables. Such proximity will lead to rapid overripening and rotting.

    Some summer residents have adapted, and the picked unripe peppercorns are placed on food foil. The foil is then placed on the eastern or western window sills. The sun will begin to push away from the foil, this promotes rapid ripening.

    You can artificially stop the development of the bush and stimulate ripening. At a height of 3-4 cm from the ground, use a sharp knife to punch a through hole and insert a sliver of wood into it. The bush will stop growing, the peppers will ripen sooner.

    Coming from the hot south, it has long found its place both on our tables and on our garden plots. But the problem is that the local climatic conditions are not always to the liking of the overseas guest and the fruits rarely have time to reach ripeness. What to do if the pepper does not turn red in the garden, how to speed up its ripening on the bush in the open ground?

    How to speed up the ripening of sweet peppers?

    Let’s make a reservation right away that sweet peppers are a rather capricious crop, requiring a lot of heat and sunlight, so if the weather has finally “turned to autumn” the best way out It will be simple to harvest the existing crop without waiting for its biological ripeness. But if the night temperature does not yet drop below +10 degrees, the following measures will help speed up the ripening of pepper fruits:

    1. The bed with peppers should be covered with non-woven covering material in order to build a film greenhouse over it a little later. In sunny weather, the greenhouse should be carefully ventilated and carefully closed at night. If there is a stationary greenhouse on the site, you can also transplant pepper bushes with unripe fruits into it, but there is a high risk of damaging their delicate root system.
    2. Heavily overgrown pepper bushes must be pruned - remove side shoots and lower leaves, and also pinch out the apical growth points. This will improve air circulation and direct all nutrients to the ripening fruits, and will also avoid the build-up of excess green mass.
    3. The green part of the pepper bushes must be treated with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or ash infusion, which contain all the microelements necessary for rapid ripening of the fruit. You can also use fruit formation stimulants, such as “Bud” or “Ovary” for foliar treatment.

    First, it’s worth checking which type of pepper is chosen. Maybe ripe fruits should not be reddish at all, but greenish or lilac. Therefore, if the peppers have acquired not a reddish color, but a yellowish, orange or green color, there is no need to be surprised, maybe this is a natural stage of development.

    Pepper - features of care, planting and growing


    Reviews:

    Lenya NOTES OF AN AGRONOMIST writes: the girl in the avatar is beautiful😀 the video is also beautiful

    gil ivanov writes: Yes, and they also say I went to the dacha!! And not TO THE Cottage!!! Hohlopitek Go burn the tires!!

    IN THE GARDEN AND AT HOME writes: Useful video from experts. I have already planted the peppers and made a video - come in

    Maria Mazur writes: why did they start to bend whole pepper bushes?

    Nina Aleksandrovna Kommersant writes: Dear bloggers of a useful video, thank you for the consultation, I gave you a like for your work, and for comments to users, basically a thumbs down, what are people thinking about, not about pepper, obviously, sorry

    To get an early harvest when growing peppers in a greenhouse, you need to choose the right variety. Residents middle zone and northern latitudes, you need to choose only early and very early varieties of hot and sweet peppers, and for those who live in a milder climate, mid-season varieties are suitable. The best harvest comes from modifications: they are resistant to frost and disease, and have beautiful taste properties. There are a huge variety of types of reddish hot and sweet peppers on the market, so it will not be difficult to choose the most suitable one, and growing peppers in a greenhouse will give excellent results.

    PEPPER. WHY DOESN'T THE OVAR BLOWER OR CRASH OFF?


    Reviews:

    Valentina Bashmakova writes: Hello

    Galina Kondratyuk writes: Interesting and useful video! Good luck! LIKE! I wait to visit.

    Svetlana Grebenyukova writes: Hello, please advise, I planted tomatoes and peppers in this tent and there is a fly infestation, what should I do?

    reell GM writes: kkk

    Natalya Ermakova writes: Marinochka, hello, I watch all your programs and want to ask whether you tie up the pepper or not

    It is advisable to have two doors on different sides, equipped with small vestibules. The system is convenient for plants drip irrigation. Such a system can be used to equip a polycarbonate pepper greenhouse. The northern wall of the greenhouse can be lined with cinder blocks or timber; a permanent covering will protect the plants from wind and frost.

    For closed ground, indeterminate type bushes are suitable, which do not take root well in open beds. To secure them you need strong stakes or trellises. If you want to save scarce space, then tall peppers are not suitable for a greenhouse; it is better to pay attention to compact standard bushes.

    translation


    Reviews:

    DiSi

    DiSi writes: Cool, keep up the good work :))

    In this case, it is best to install special lamps with UV radiation. In addition, it does not hurt to pluck the ovaries that are superfluous. They may consume too many substances for development, so that the plant simply cannot fully provide a large number of ovaries and flowers at once. If you pick them, the plant will immediately begin to spend less energy, so that those ovaries that remain will begin to quickly turn into a full-fledged fruit and turn red.

    If the fruits cannot ripen, then you can simply pick them and wait until they turn red. This home method works too. By the way, experienced experts do not advise keeping bell pepper fruits on the plant so that they are fully ripe.

    What varieties of tomatoes are the sweetest? How to deal with late blight? - Plant super early ones to remove them before mid-August. You can pick the green ones, they will ripen in boxes at home. Bull's heart. Spray with Bordeaux mixture during flowering, protect from moisture. I liked the Honey Drop - small, yellow,...

    Dear landowners, what is more beneficial for the body at our age: dreaming about a new partner or a fancy greenhouse? - Dreaming about everything is NOT HARMFUL, BUT USEFUL! I dream that my “old” partner will build me a greenhouse as soon as possible!!! Then there will be enough happiness for two!!! Good luck! The greenhouse is already old. About the helipad, most likely, so that it’s quick and convenient...

    Planting peppers in a greenhouse in 2016.


    Reviews:

    Olga Makarova writes: Thank you very much! Simply amazing seedlings. Have your seedlings been under lamps? Do you grow eggplants?

    Yulia's place was in bloom writes: Thank you very much for the useful and detailed video!!!

    Vitalij K. writes: Instead of superphosphate I put 1-2 herrings. You can use any other cheap one sea ​​fish or fish heads. It’s somehow more natural.

    MalikaF Sal writes: the peppers are gorgeous! do you form them in a greenhouse? please answer! good luck and like.

    Experience over the years writes: The pepper seedlings look so great!!! How do you care for her?