How to lay parquet: methods, necessary tools and step-by-step process for proper installation. Laying parquet boards: proper organization and order of work How to lay parquet flooring at home

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Flooring is one of the most important elements in the interior. It participates in creating the necessary environment in an apartment or house, and can be static. Natural wood remains the most popular material for flooring. We can talk for a long time about the advantages of wooden parquet; it is possible to cover floors in this way in any room, except the bathroom and. In this article we will look in detail at how you can competently and correctly lay parquet on the floor in an apartment or private house.

Peculiarities parquet

Parquet is the best finishing material that can make a spectacular impression. The refined and noble appearance of the coating is its main advantage. In addition, such floor finishing will create a cozy and comfortable atmosphere at home or in the office.

Let's look at different types of parquet:

Technology styling parquet

Laying parquet with your own hands is a process that requires a lot of time and effort. If you follow all the rules and follow clear instructions, the result will be an elegant, smooth floor covering made of natural wood. To know how to correctly lay parquet on the floor, you need to consider each stage in detail.

There are several ways to lay parquet:

Placement on logs.
Laying on top of a concrete screed.
Laying on a rough finish.

First, you have to choose the material you need for the parquet sheets, and then the design, since further installation technology will depend on your imagination and ideas. After this, you need to prepare the base. This is followed by the process of gluing the parquet sheets. The duration of installation will depend on the surface area and your professional training. The chosen pattern will also affect the degree of difficulty of the work.

Material selection

Purchasing the necessary material is a very important step in the flooring process. What you need to pay attention to:

The parquet must be sufficiently dry. The material can be stored at temperatures up to 25 degrees and humidity up to 60 percent.
If you are dealing with parquet for the first time, purchase large-sized slats. Laying such material will be much easier and faster.
Always pay attention to the condition and treatment of the slats. There must be no burrs, chips, scratches or cracks. You should also avoid strong contrasting differences in wood colors.
To cover the floor with high-quality parquet, always pay attention to the cost of the material. The price-quality ratio is important. For example, a cheap option made from ash, beech or maple is not much inferior in its properties to its more expensive oak counterparts.

What you need to know when choosing a wood type:

The tree must be dry. Wet or overdried boards may lose their shape over time and become deformed.
For apartments and residential buildings with a small area, it is better to choose coniferous wood; larch, pine, spruce, cedar or fir are suitable. Such boards are strong and durable.
The boards should not have resin stains or obvious cracks. Such material cannot be purchased even with a good discount.
The parquet board must be more than 2 meters in length.
Check carefully that all boards belong to the same batch. If this condition is met, you can be sure that all parquet elements were processed under the same conditions and at the same time. The pattern and color palette on the surface will match.
The best choice is edged or tongue-and-groove wood, which does not require additional surface sanding.

When choosing a parquet color, always consider the shade of the doors in the room. These interior details must differ from each other by several tones.

Preparing the surface

In order to competently and correctly lay parquet on a wooden floor, you need to take the first stage seriously and prepare the base well. The smoother the surface, the easier it will be to work with the lamellas. First you need to purchase the following tools:

An ordinary hammer.
Saw or jigsaw.
A simple pencil or black marker for markings.
Spacer wedges.
Electric drill.
Roulette.
Nails or screws.
Grinding machine.

Preparing the sub-wood floor:

When the base is ready, it must be further cleaned with a vacuum cleaner. You can also prime the surface with a mixture of fungicidal additives to increase adhesion and prevent mold.

If you have an old wood floor, you will have to completely strip it out and replace any damaged wood strips with new ones. All defects must also be puttied and sanded.

After the base is completely ready for installation, you need to place the parquet boards in the room and let them sit for about a day. In this way, the material adapts to the conditions in the room. The floor covering should last about 48 hours when packaged.

Parquet laying

Classic parquet is glued in small strips directly onto the prepared base. How to lay parquet on the floor using special glue, and which glue is better to choose:

Reactive hardening adhesive. This is a new type, it is distinguished by a high price, increased strength and durability. This glue hardens quickly, so it is necessary to prevent it from getting on the front surface of the material. Sanding is allowed only after 24 hours.
Solvent based adhesive. When using it, you can easily correct errors and defects in the next 25 minutes.
Dispersion glue. It is not expensive and hardens fairly quickly. However, it is better not to use it when working with exotic wood species.

The parquet adhesive will completely harden within 7 days, so the parquet should stabilize on the floor surface for about a week. You can see how to lay parquet correctly in the video below.

Sanding and varnishing stage

You can proceed to this stage after the glue has completely hardened and the material has stabilized. You will need three types of grinders: a drum-type belt grinder, for grinding corners, and a surface grinder (disc).

When varnishing parquet, make sure that there is no dust or drafts in the room.

There are many nuances and subtleties in the technology of laying parquet. However, if you follow all the rules and follow the instructions, you can easily cope with this task.

One of the most attractive types of flooring is parquet. It allows you to create a surprisingly cozy atmosphere in your home, it is warm enough and you can use it to create an original pattern on the floor. That is why many people decide to opt for it during renovation. But not everyone knows how to lay parquet. Let's consider how this procedure occurs, what are the subtleties of installing such a coating.

Parquet is a coating that is not only beautiful, but also durable and environmentally friendly. It is made from natural wood, which is why its cost is quite high. However, the material allows you to retain heat in the house, is hypoallergenic, has a service life of 25 years or more, and provides excellent sound insulation.

On a note! The main disadvantage of the material is its high maintenance requirements. He does not like water, and therefore it is not recommended to wash him often. Also, periodically the coating has to be rubbed with special compounds so that it shines and looks like new.

Parquet can be of different types, and everyone can choose the most suitable option for themselves. The material can be piece, mosaic, panel, massive, palace. There is also a separate type of parquet, which is called. All types of material differ in size, methods of laying and working with them. Some are easier to install, some are more difficult, but in any case, the material does not lose its main advantages listed above.

Prices for Tarkett parquet

Tarquette parquet

Methods for laying parquet

The most common types of parquet are traditional piece, panel, and parquet boards. Depending on the type of material and type of base, the optimal installation option is selected. There are three main ones.

Table. Basic coating installation options.

Way	Characteristic
	This method is usually used if the base is made of plywood. Individual strips of material are placed on thick adhesive applied to the floor using a notched trowel. The choice of adhesive composition is very important and it is selected for a specific type of parquet. For example, if the glue contains more than 50% water, then it should not be used for parquet at all. The method prohibits other work in the room until the adhesive layer has dried, and this is the main drawback. But parquet laid in this way will adhere securely to the base.
	In this case, individual planks are connected to each other using the tongue-and-groove technology - there are special grooves and ridges on each plank, they are butted together and tightly connected. Glue is not used in this case. The good thing about this method is that it allows, if necessary, to disassemble the covering and reassemble it again, but if at least one plank falls out, the floor may completely collapse if measures are not taken.
	Parquet can be attached to the floor with nails. Usually in this case plywood serves as the base. The method is rarely used - builders and craftsmen give preference to the first two installation methods.

The most popular method of installing parquet flooring is adhesive. It is reliable, which is what attracts craftsmen. The choice of adhesive will depend on what kind of parquet is being installed. There are the following main types of adhesive compositions.

Important! It is important to work very carefully with polyurethane-based glue. If such a composition gets on the front side of the material, it can damage the coating.

The glue is always applied using a special notched spatula. It is thanks to them that it is possible to apply the composition in a layer of the required thickness and evenly. Sometimes, for additional fixation, parquet staples can be used, which are driven at an angle of 45 degrees to the floor surface using a pneumatic gun.

Regular piece parquet can be laid in various patterns.

Prices for bamboo parquet

bamboo parquet

How to lay parquet correctly? Important aspects

Laying parquet has certain nuances - although the process is simple, it still requires a responsible and correct approach. If special requirements are not followed, the base will quickly collapse or lose its appearance.

The air temperature in the room where the work is carried out should be within +18-23 degrees.
Air humidity should be no more than 45-60%.
Before starting work, the parquet must be kept in the room where it will be installed for 7-10 days. This will allow the material to “get used” to future operating conditions.
There should be nothing unnecessary in the room during work.
The base for laying parquet must be carefully prepared - leveled and cleared of debris.
You should not install parquet on old, swollen and damaged flooring.

If all installation conditions are met, as well as proper care of the parquet, the coating can last 60-80 years without any complaints.

Parquet base

During preparation for installation of parquet, special attention should be paid to the rough base. It must be perfectly smooth and clean, there should be no roughness or bumps on it, otherwise the parquet will not lie as required and will last very little time. First, remove the old floor covering, if any. It is important to inspect joists and subfloors for damage and rot. If they are unsuitable for laying parquet, they will have to be removed and replaced with new ones. In this case, the logs can be covered either with wooden boards or immediately with plywood. In general, such a floor has several layers - the concrete floor itself, joists, moisture-resistant plywood, adhesive composition and the parquet itself.

The logs should have a thickness of 5-10 cm; before installation, they are coated with protective compounds that prevent rotting and destruction of the wood. Boards or sheets of plywood are already attached to them. The easiest way to fill the space between the joists is with some kind of insulation - it will make the floors warmer, which is especially important for those rooms that are located above the basement. To install a subfloor, you should not use plywood thinner than 12 mm. During installation, it is worth considering that there should be small gaps, about 1 mm wide, between its individual sheets. Slightly larger in width - about 1.5 mm - compensation gaps are also left along the walls.

Don't forget about waterproofing. It will provide protection for both the joist and the rough base, as well as the parquet itself, from excess moisture, which negatively affects the materials from which they are made. The easiest way is to use plastic film.

Parquet can be laid not only on plywood, but also on. But it must be perfectly smooth and reliable. If necessary, self-leveling mixtures will help level it. Also, such a base must be primed to ensure maximum adhesion. Then the adhesive composition will stick to it best.

On a note! You can level the concrete base with sheets of plywood. Fastening is done using dowels.

If a new concrete screed has been poured, then further work can be carried out only after it has completely dried. The drying time for the screed is about 28 days. At the same time, you cannot speed up the process by using heating devices - in this case, the screed may begin to collapse. Installation of parquet should not be carried out on a damp base. Checking this indicator in relation to the screed is quite simple - a piece of polyethylene measuring 1x1 m is placed on it and left there for a day. Then the film is lifted and its condition is assessed from the inside. If it is dry, then you can lay parquet; if condensation has accumulated on it, then the subfloor needs to be dried.

It is recommended to cover the concrete floor with a backing before laying the parquet, if we are talking about laying the floor using the floating method, and also with the adhesive method. It will ensure the most comfortable use of floors, as it smooths out minor unevenness in the base, increases thermal insulation performance, helps distribute the load on the parquet correctly and additionally protects it from moisture.

Tools and materials

For parquet laying work, certain tools may be required, as well as a number of materials. The list is approximate, since the need to use some of them will depend on the method by which the parquet is laid. May be useful:

jigsaw or saw;
grinding machines;
drill, dowels and screws;
hammer;
measuring instruments and pencil;
notched spatula;
brushes and primer;
moisture-proofing material;
adhesive composition;
nails, parquet staples;

It is necessary to pay special attention to the purchase of the parquet itself - its service life will directly depend on its quality. You should not buy low quality, cheap or damaged material. Also, the parquet must be chosen in a color that matches the overall style of the room where the renovation is being carried out.

On a note! Oak parquet is the most durable and reliable, as well as durable, but is quite expensive. Maple and beech materials are cheaper, but not much inferior in quality to oak.

Parquet laying process

The process of laying parquet flooring is not as complicated as it seems - it just needs to be done carefully and carefully, and then everything will work out. You should not choose a complex pattern if the master is not confident in his abilities - it is better to lay the parquet using the most common methods - for example, linear. But you can try to implement other variants of patterns or buy panel parquet.

Step 1. The surface of the rough base, which in this case is a concrete screed, is carefully ground - it needs to be leveled to perfect condition. The easiest and fastest way to do this is with a grinding machine.

Step 2. The resulting dust and other debris are collected using a vacuum cleaner. Corners and areas near walls are treated especially carefully.

Step 3. A layer of epoxy primer is applied to the screed. The easiest way to do the work is with a roller with a long handle. The primer is applied so that there are no uncoated areas left on the floor.

Step 4. An insulating substrate is placed on the base. It is glued to glue, which is applied to the prepared base using a notched trowel.

Step 5. The backing sheets are laid end to end and smoothed by hand.

Step 6. The substrate is then rolled with a heavy roller. This procedure will ensure the most reliable connection with the concrete screed.

Step 7 After this, the installation of mosaic parquet begins. The first rows of elements are placed at a short distance from the walls - a few millimeters are enough. These will be compensation gaps, which will subsequently be closed with a plinth. Parquet adhesive is applied to the substrate using a notched trowel. It is applied in small areas, sufficient for gluing several elements.

Step 8 The parquet elements are laid on the adhesive layer in joint with the previously laid ones.

Step 9 Each parquet element is carefully pressed to the base.

Step 10 When the parquet is laid and the adhesive layer has dried well, the surface of the coating is sanded with a special grinding machine. Along the walls, the material is processed with an angle grinder.

Step 11 The mosaic parquet blocks are being puttied. Using a wide spatula, a special composition is applied to the surface of the material and distributed evenly over the base.

Step 12 After this layer has dried, the surface is sanded using a surface grinder for parquet.

Step 14 The final stage is polishing the parquet.

Prices for parquet oil

parquet oil

Video - Laying block parquet

This is how parquet flooring is installed. If everything is done in accordance with the requirements presented above, then anyone can cope with the task. However, in order for parquet to look beautiful for as long as possible, it is important to properly care for it.

The service life of the coating, its performance, and appearance depend on the quality of the parquet installation. Therefore, when deciding to carry out installation yourself, you must first thoroughly study the features of the process, draw up an action plan, and prepare a set of specialized tools.

A bonus will be a thematic video “laying parquet: a video with step-by-step instructions”, which clearly teaches the correct actions, which can be found at the end of the article. As for the parquet itself, everything is simple here. The piece is its most popular option, practical and easy to use, secured using a tongue-and-groove locking system with plank thicknesses from 15 to 22 mm, lengths up to 50 cm and widths up to 75 mm. Below are several options for laying the material.

Laying block parquet is almost as simple as laying parquet boards, but there can be many more pattern options

Regardless of the type of installation of block parquet (there are several installation methods), an important condition is the correct preparation of the base. The base can be made on the basis of a concrete screed, cement screed or logs. If this is the third option, then the first layer is formed from roofing felt, covering it with logs and plywood to level the surface, heat and sound insulation of the coating. In addition, plywood sheets as an auxiliary layer guarantee a high level of durability of the finished floor.

If we are talking about a concrete screed, then the surface of the base is carefully leveled with self-leveling mixtures, if necessary, sanded for additional evenness, cleaned and dried. Square-shaped plywood sheets are also used as an intermediate layer, fixed to the base with dowel nails.

It is important not to forget about a gap of at least 1 mm between the sheets in case the material expands under the influence of temperature changes and moisture. Another gap of strategic importance is the expansion joint between the wall surface and the plywood - at least 2 mm. For convenience, wedges are used at this stage, which are removed during installation of the skirting boards.

This option for the intermediate layer is also possible

The cement screed used as a base for a parquet floor must also be dry, clean, level and practical. Height differences of more than a millimeter per two square meters are not allowed. Floor humidity should be between 2% and 4%.

To improve the adhesion of parquet to the floor, it would be advisable to treat the base with primer mixtures before installation. The glue and primer must be combined with each other - the quality of adhesion depends on this. When humidity levels exceed the norm, a polyurethane composition is used to create a waterproofing barrier. Primer mixtures are applied using a spatula or roller.

Just as in the previous two cases, it would be correct to lay sheets of plywood between the cement base and the parquet to improve sound and heat insulation properties. The optimal parameters of the intermediate material are 1.5 × 1.5 meters with a thickness of 12 mm. The plywood is secured to the base with self-tapping screws or parquet glue; as an option, the use of screws is also allowed, although this method is not the most practical, since over time the floor under the parquet will become loose and cause squeaking.

It is not necessary to make the entire floor from scratch; you can often use an existing one

Another option for installing parquet is on an old wooden floor. Here, work can begin only after careful preparation of the base, solving the problems of creaking, dips, deformations and other defects.

Before laying parquet on an old floor, it is dismantled in damaged areas, repaired, sanded, cleaned and dried. In this case, plywood sheets will not be needed as an intermediate layer, since the wooden base itself will play its role.

Options for installing block parquet - what methods are used

Most often, laying parquet with your own hands is done using the floating method. This option is the simplest, since the floor elements are equipped with a special locking system and are quite simply attached to each other without dust, dirt or extra effort. The joining of the planks occurs according to the “tenon and groove” principle. When performing installation using this system, you need to remember that the floor is not fixed to the base, which means it will be especially susceptible to changes in the microclimate in the room. Hence the name - floating installation method.

To prevent deformation of the coating, you should not forget about the gap between the planks of the first row and the wall (at least 1 cm), which is subsequently masked by baseboards.

Block parquet strip with grooves

The boards are laid using the floating method on a layer of vapor barrier and sound insulation. It is convenient to use cork material for this, the porous structure of which increases its thermal insulation properties.

The advantage of the floating method is the high speed of installation, ease of operation, absence of dust and dirt, as well as the ability to repair the floor in certain areas during operation if necessary.

When laying block parquet on a plywood floor using glue, you need to be careful so that there are no cracks or gaps left

The technology for laying block parquet with glue will be somewhat different. First of all, this option involves preparing materials for the work. This is necessarily a high-quality one- or two-component parquet glue (preferably water-based), a roller, brushes, a spatula for application, as well as a drill with an attachment to obtain a homogeneous mass.

The floorboards are mounted on a base coated with glue (only the area for one row is prepared), with them simultaneously connected using a locking system. Just as in the previous case, leave a gap of 1 cm between the wall and the planks of the first row, driving plastic or wooden wedges in this place.

Basic technologies for installing parquet flooring - laying nuances

In addition to options for fastening methods, there are also different installation methods that affect the appearance of the finished floor. The most commonly used types of masonry are:

deck;
"herringbone";
squares;
mosaic;
diamonds;
Sheremetyevo star.

Let's look at the differences between parquet laying in each option.

Deck laying consists of parquet boards laid out longitudinally with each next row offset by half. This installation method helps to increase the level of floor rigidity. They mount the dies from the wall opposite the door, gradually moving towards the exit.

To obtain a floor that visually represents a seamless glossy surface, the planks are attached longitudinally to the light entering the window. Before installation, the dies of the first row are laid out taking into account the distance from the wall, marking the cutting line from the last element.

For strong fixation, before installing each subsequent row, at the junction of the connection of two planks, connect the board of the next row, loosening it slightly to align the connection horizontally. Do this with all joints. A jigsaw is suitable for sawing planks. Such a tool will not damage the surface of the elements.

Parquet can also be laid diagonally using the deck method, having previously drawn a diagram on the base for ease of installation.

Deck laying looks interesting, despite the simplicity of the design

You can correctly lay parquet in a herringbone pattern using planks that have tongues on two corner sides and grooves on the other two sides. Installation is carried out in such a way that the connections are in the same direction.

The planks can be attached at an angle to the walls of 45 or 90 degrees. Installation begins with the lighthouse “herringbone”, that is, with the laying of the first two rows to set the main line. The initial “herringbone” must be perfectly level, so it is recommended to use a fishing line or a drawing to align the dies. The parquet is installed using glue with additional fixation using a locking system.

Parquet, laid with mosaic or wicker, consists of squares or rectangles of tiles. Posting a drawing is quite simple. To do this, the planks are laid out in the form of the desired geometric figure, aligning them perpendicular to each other with each subsequent one shifted to the side for a checkerboard effect.

Christmas tree laying is one of the most popular

There are many options for laying in this way, starting from a simple mosaic with alternating a circle of planks in one direction with a circle inside in a perpendicular direction and ending with crosses, stripes, etc. Just as in the previous case, installation begins with laying the beacon row. The figures can be placed at an angle of 45 degrees, which implies a large consumption of parquet.

You can lay parquet yourself using the Sheremetyevskaya Star technology using rectangular and inclined diamond-shaped elements. Mosaic laid on the floor in this way will decorate the interior. To achieve the desired effect, installation is carried out according to a pre-drawn pattern.

How to work with artistic parquet - features

Artistic parquet is a subtype of classic piece parquet with patterns formed by combining blocks with different parameters, colors, shades. These can be boards from one type of wood, or from several, different in appearance, but harmonizing with each other in properties.

Covering based on artistic parquet has a number of advantages compared to conventional flooring:

the surface looks unusual and original, allowing you to emphasize the individuality of the interior in the room;
the finished floor does not require the use of additional decorative elements, as it is an integral harmonious composition;
service life exceeds several decades, subject to compliance with the rules of care and use while maintaining appearance and performance;
the coating is environmentally friendly and safe;
high level of heat and sound insulation properties;
ease of care;
possibility of carrying out repair and restoration work.

Correct laying of artistic parquet allows you to create interesting geometric patterns in a simple way - by connecting the dies into a “tongue and groove”. Floor elements may differ in fiber pattern due to different cutting options. Artistic parquet is installed after finishing the walls and ceilings and fastening with communications.

An interesting pattern of artistic parquet always attracts attention and adds unusualness to the room.

During the work, the room is maintained at optimal temperature and humidity conditions. The temperature is within 18-23 degrees Celsius above zero, humidity - no more than 60%.

As for the installation itself, it consists of the same steps as the installation of conventional piece parquet. At the initial stage, the base is prepared - it must be dry, clean and even, after which it is treated with primer mixtures and a layer of heat and waterproofing is installed. The boards are fastened using one of the above methods, choosing the optimal installation option from ready-made schemes or working according to an individual plan.

At the final stage, the coating is puttied, sanded, primed and varnished with a number of layers from two to seven. As an option, you can consider a coating based on oil mixtures or mastic, but in the case of artistic parquet, it is the varnish layer that will be most appropriate, since it can not only protect the floor, but also emphasize its luxury and elegance.

Like any other parquet floor, artistic parquet requires preliminary preparation and proper care to maintain its integrity and appearance.

Many owners choose parquet boards as flooring. And this is quite understandable. This coating looks great in the interior. If the technology for laying parquet boards is followed, the floor will last for many years. An undoubted advantage of the coating is its ease of maintenance. Many people think that laying parquet boards on their own is difficult. Later in the article we will figure out whether this is so.

Tools

Of course, laying parquet boards is carried out using special devices. It must be said that every owner has most of the tools. Cutting panels is best done with a jigsaw. If you don’t have this tool, then you can easily use a hacksaw with fine teeth (for metal). The parquet board is knocked down using a hammer. Its weight should be about 1 kg. A specially prepared piece of plastic acts as a tamping block. It is included in the standard kit for laying laminate or parquet. A plastic block is not as rigid as a wooden one. Thanks to this, chipping at the edges of the panels can be avoided. During the installation process, you will also need plastic restrictive wedges. They are necessary to fix the gap between the coating and the walls. These wedges can be made independently from wood. Another device included in the parquet installation kit is a metal bracket. With its help, the last panel is fixed. If there is no metal bracket, it can be replaced with a clamp. You will also need a tape measure, a level and a square.

Laying parquet boards: basic methods

Depending on the dimensions of the panels, one or another version of the covering flooring is used. Among the most popular are the following:

On the logs.
Using nails. The panels are nailed to the wood subfloor.
Glue method.
Floating method. In this case, the panels are connected using a special lock.

The latter option is considered the most popular today, since laying parquet boards in this case is convenient both in a small room and in a large room. Flooring using the glue method is used less and less today. This is due to the greater labor intensity of the entire process. In this case, laying the panels requires perseverance from the master. Fixing with nails to a wooden subfloor is usually used for solid parquet. But it must be said that this type of panel is gradually disappearing from stores. When laying parquet on joists, it is necessary to arrange a distance between them of no more than 30-40 cm. This is not very economically profitable. That is why in 90% of cases today the floating flooring method is used. This option is considered ideal for those who intend to do the work themselves. In any case, regardless of the chosen method, before laying the parquet board, it is necessary to prepare the base. It must be clean, level and dry.

Preparatory stage

Before laying the parquet board, it is kept for two to three days in the room where the work will be carried out. It is necessary to lay a backing under the panels. It can be cork or synthetic. Thanks to the backing, the parquet board will be protected from excess moisture. The strips of material must be glued together with tape at the joints. The more closely the parts fit together and the more thoroughly they are closed, the more airtight the base. Laying parquet boards with your own hands can be done using both parallel and diagonal methods. The selected option will not affect the performance characteristics of the coating. However, it should be remembered that diagonal laying significantly increases the consumption of parquet boards. It can range from 2 to 7%. As a rule, the diagonal method is used in those rooms where it is necessary to smooth out the effect of unsuccessful placement of furniture.

First row

Let's take a closer look at how to properly lay parquet boards. The first stage involves laying the 1st and 2nd rows. They should be located parallel to the light falling from the window. Therefore, before laying the parquet board, you should install wedges against the wall to provide clearance. The gap between the coating and the wall is at least 10 mm. This distance is necessary to protect the panels from mechanical damage when changing temperature and humidity conditions in the room. The first two panels are pressed tightly against the spacer wedges.

Optimal distance between seams

Many beginners do not know how to properly lay parquet boards. Experienced experts recommend that when laying the second row, the panel closest to the wall should be sawed off to a length of at least 80 cm. It is considered ideal that the transverse seam in the first row would be located opposite the middle of the board of the second. However, in any case, a minimum run-up must be maintained. The transverse seams of parallel rows should be located at a distance of at least half a meter from each other. Otherwise, the connections will be weak.

Second row

Many craftsmen find the floating method very convenient. If there are any errors during the installation process, everything can be corrected. The panel from the second row must be inserted into the groove of the first. To do this, the board is tilted at an angle of approximately 20 degrees. The panel snaps into place, but is not fixed. The second board is inserted in the same way. It also snaps and is tapped to the first one. After the panels are tightly joined, they are fixed in the groove of the first row. To completely eliminate the seam, the boards are beaten using timber. Using this method, the covering is laid over the entire floor.

The last row

Many, especially beginners, craftsmen may have some difficulties at the final stage of flooring. By following these recommendations, you can make your work much easier. First of all, you should measure the distance from the wall to the penultimate row. The width of the panel that will complete the flooring should be 1 cm less than the obtained value. This ensures the necessary compensation gap. In the groove of the penultimate row it is necessary to cut off the locking edge. After this, the finishing boards are inserted. For a tight insertion, a mounting paw or clamp is used.

Shutdown

The final stage is the installation of skirting boards. The wedges must first be removed from the expansion gap. The baseboards are attached exclusively to the wall surface. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that it is not pressed tightly against the parquet. The width of the plinth should be enough to hide the expansion gap.

Diagonal method

Laying parquet using this method is carried out in the same way as described above. The only difference is that the panels are not located straight, but at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the axis of the room. It is best to determine the direction of the flooring while standing with your back to the doors. This option is not suitable for a rectangular narrow room, as it will look very colorful.

Finishing

Previously, traditionally, after laying parquet, it was sanded. This made it possible to achieve a perfectly flat surface. For modern parquet flooring this procedure is not required. But during operation, in some cases it becomes necessary to refresh the surface. To do this, scraping is carried out to a depth of no more than 0.5 mm and additional coating with several layers of varnish. A three-layer parquet board is tidied up using a belt sander. Powerful drum units are not suitable for this work. This is due to the fact that they create quite strong vibration, which, in turn, negatively affects the internal structure of the coating. Sanding begins with 40-grit sandpaper. The process is completed with 150-grit abrasive. The completion of the work can be checked by running your hand across the floor. If there are no roughnesses, then grinding is complete.

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How to lay parquet boards?

People who want to emphasize their high status, good taste and wealth when choosing flooring, as a rule, give preference to parquet. And all because this material has excellent wear resistance, a high level of reliability, it is environmentally friendly and looks simply gorgeous. The most problematic aspect and difficult type of work has always been considered to be covering the floor with parquet. But fortunately, with the advent of parquet boards, the situation has changed for the better, and even a novice builder or a person far from repair work can cope with this work. Today we will learn how to lay parquet boards yourself, guided by the recommendations and advice of experts.

Types of parquet boards

Today this material is produced in several variations. Multilayer and solid parquet boards are available on the market. Their main difference lies in the manufacturing method. And depending on the production method, they are divided into:

Solid boards are made from solid pieces of hardwood and softwood. They are fastened using ridges and grooves located at the ends of the boards. Such materials are not cheap due to the fact that huge pieces of the most expensive wood are used for their production.
Multilayer boards - two or three layers of wooden sticks glued together. To give them additional strength, during the production process the layers are stacked on top of each other exclusively at right angles. But they have such unique performance characteristics due to the use of different types of wood. Thus, the top layer is usually made from the hardest wood species, and the second layer is made from softer wood. Subsequent layers are formed from plywood or previously discarded pine or spruce lamellas. Such boards cost much less than massive ones, since smaller materials are used for their manufacture.

Depending on the number of planks, parquet boards are also different. Namely single-lane, two-lane, three-lane and even four-lane. To understand which materials are best to choose, you need to know the following:

The most popular are three-strip boards, because they are most similar in appearance to parquet and are inexpensive.
The most budget option is parquet boards consisting of four strips, because they are made from the narrowest lamellas. Unfortunately, their unattractive appearance does not allow the designers’ ideas to be realized through a successful combination of lamellas.
Single-strip and double-strip boards are the most expensive, because they are made from the widest pieces of expensive wood. A room with such a floor looks solemn and rich.

Important! They can also vary in thickness from 7 to 22 mm. And it is this parameter that directly determines how the board will be laid.

Features of laying parquet boards

Despite the fact that even a beginner can install parquet boards, there is still a risk of completely ruining the coating. Therefore, during work you need to adhere to a certain installation technology.

If you want your parquet floor to last as long as possible, be sure to follow the rules below:

The base must be well prepared. To do this, it is necessary to create a flat and durable surface, without any differences or deep cracks.
It is necessary to maintain the required level of humidity. Although, thanks to modern technologies, wood is reliably protected from moisture, it is still not recommended to lay this material on the floor in the bathroom, kitchen and toilet, because this is where the highest level of humidity prevails.
The parquet board must be well prepared for installation. To prevent it from starting to warp and crack after all the work is completed, it should be left immediately after purchase in the room where it will be stored for several days.

Important! It is necessary to maintain a certain level of humidity and temperature during the installation process. Make sure that the temperature does not fall below 18 degrees and the humidity remains at 35-65%.

The board also needs to be additionally insulated, because it is especially susceptible to the negative effects of moisture and temperature. For this purpose, a substrate is equipped, which consists of a layer of thermal insulation and waterproofing.
Choose the correct laying direction. The boards must be laid in the direction of the sun's rays so that the joints are almost invisible.
If the house where you want to lay parquet has a heated floor system, then you will have to create a separate covering of boards for each room. The fact is that each room has its own temperature microclimate and therefore the temperature can fluctuate within wide limits.

How to prepare the base for laying parquet?

Before learning how to properly lay parquet boards, read the information regarding the required preparatory work. This refers to the base on which the installation will be carried out.

Important! Parquet boards can be mounted on both concrete and wooden bases. Therefore, it is important that they are smooth and durable. If you are creating floors from scratch, then you will have to make them taking into account the future installation of parquet. If you have to work with an old floor, you will need to repair it and completely revise it.

Features of preparing a wooden base

If you want to use an existing wooden floor as a base, then you will need to complete a number of works before laying the parquet board:

First you need to remove the old covering and check that the floor does not creak or fall anywhere, that there are no gaps between the boards and that all elements are firmly attached.
If no problems are identified, then installation can begin. Otherwise, you will have to work hard if any defects are discovered.

Important! If the floorboards have simply dried out and there are large differences in height between them, then you can level the floor using putty or scrape it off. And if they are simply loose, then using self-tapping screws they can be attached to the joists.

The most complex and time-consuming process is restoring damaged joists. The fact is that in such a situation you will have to completely dismantle the floor. Sagging joists can be raised by placing wooden chips or bars under them. And rotten boards will definitely have to be replaced.
Maximum attention should be paid to the lag level. It is necessary to check that they are all in the same plane along the horizon.

Preparing to lay the concrete base

Here everything is much simpler and there is less work. You will have to do the following:

Remove the old coating and check for breaks, cracks and unevenness. If everything is fine, and there are small unevenness and cracks, then you can treat them with a primer on top, fill them with a special screed, which will level itself after drying.
If the concrete floor is severely crumbled, you will have to use a hammer drill to remove the old screed and re-lay it. And only after this it will be possible to start working with parquet.

Features of laying parquet boards in different ways

And now we will look at how to lay a parquet board with your own hands in all possible ways. Today there are three of them:

floating method;
using fasteners;
through glue.

Important! It should immediately be noted that:

Floating and glue methods require the creation of a continuous base for laying parquet. As a rule, they are used when working with panels of any type and thickness.

By means of fastening, the boards are laid directly on the logs or wooden base - in this case it is very important that the board is at least 20-22 mm thick.

To choose the best option for yourself and find out the installation features, you need to familiarize yourself with each method separately.

Floating installation of parquet boards

This option is considered the fastest, simplest and does not require much labor. In this case, the boards are placed directly on the substrate, and the panels are connected to each other in a lock. And now in more detail how to lay a parquet board using a floating method:

We lay the waterproofing on the already prepared base. It is better to use polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns for this. In order to end up with a solid surface, you should overlap the pieces of film next to each other so that the overlap is 15-20 cm. Then they are glued together with tape. It is also necessary to make an overlap of 10-15 cm on the walls.
The second layer is a substrate laid on top of the film. Foamed polyethylene or cork can be used as a backing. They need to be laid end to end. All cracks and joints will need to be taped.
Before laying the board itself, you need to calculate the required amount of material. We do this so that if it is necessary to trim the last row, its width does not exceed 5 cm.
Now we connect the panels of the first row and lay them with a tenon directly to the wall. To ensure a tight fit of the boards to the wall, it is necessary to cut off the tenons.

Important! In order to avoid damage and swelling of the boards due to fluctuations in humidity levels between seasons, gaps of 10-15 mm should be left between the boards and the walls. And in order for them to be preserved, pegs should be driven in.

The panels of the second row are connected first, and then the entire row is connected to the first. You need to hammer the boards through a wooden block.
You need to start laying the third row with a board, the length of which is equal to ⅓ of the normal panel.
We start the fourth row with the whole board. All remaining rows are laid according to the same pattern.
After laying the last panel, it is necessary to remove the bursting pegs and install the plinth.

Important! Often, when performing work of this nature, problems arise related to bypassing water pipes and heating risers. To ensure perfect coverage in these places, you need to carefully trim the parquet board. As for the doorway, it is enough to make markings and cut the panel in the shape of a rectangle.

Laying parquet using glue method

Installing a parquet board in this way allows you to create a stronger monolithic structure, but you will have to work hard. In this installation option, all actions occur in the same sequence as in the method described above. But there are still some differences:

In the case of working with glue, the role of the substrate will be played by waterproof plywood, which must be laid in rows at intervals. It must be additionally secured to the base with self-tapping screws or special pneumatic nails.
Apply glue to the base and boards using a notched trowel. They should also fill all the grooves at the ends of the panels. You can remove excess glue with a damp cloth.

Important! The only disadvantage of this method is the high labor costs and complexity of installation.

Fastening method for laying parquet boards

This method is used when laying parquet on joists. In principle, most of the work is carried out similarly to the previous methods. But, of course, there are some differences:

This method is used in cases of laying massive and multi-layer parquet boards with a thickness of 20 mm.
Laying with fasteners is also used when laying massive boards on a solid wooden surface or on joists.
Even at the installation stage of the logs, waterproofing and insulation are carried out.
The boards are fastened by driving nails into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees or screwing in self-tapping screws.

Important! During the process of laying the joists, you need to make sure that the joints of the boards run right in the middle of the joists. And nails and screws must be at least 2 times longer than the thickness of the panels.

Video material

It is not so important which method you prefer, the main thing is to do everything carefully, following the recommendations of specialists and strictly adhering to the technology.

serviceyard.net

How to lay a parquet board

Installation of parquet boards begins with the correct choice of material. This is not so easy to do, because the range is rich both in color and strength characteristics.

Before laying a parquet board, take care of the external conditions of its use. If the air in the room is dry, the parquet will shrink, which will lead to deformation and the formation of cracks, and if there is excessive humidity, the board will swell and bend. Optimal conditions for parquet will be air temperature +18-24 ° and relative humidity in the range of 40-60%.

Selection of material for installation work

Installation of parquet boards is not always a key step on which the service life of the coating depends. This is also influenced by the correct choice of material. After all, parquet is a wood covering, and each type of wood has individual characteristics of strength, moisture resistance, color, and structure.

Parquet boards are distinguished according to the following characteristics:

By type of wood.
According to geometric dimensions.
Looks like a cut.
According to the quality of the front side of the parquet.
By the number of parquet strips.

Despite the wide choice of materials, the main characteristics of the durability of the coating are:

The wear layer is the face layer of the board;
the hardness of the material is its resistance to mechanical stress;
The stability of the material is its resistance to moisture.

Where to start styling?

After purchasing the material, you need to prepare the tools for laying the parquet boards in advance:

jigsaw;
hammer;
square;
pencil;
construction tape;
tamping block for parquet;
hacksaw;
perforator;
miter box or angle cutter.

If the material and tools are prepared, let's figure out how to lay parquet. There are several technologies for laying parquet boards. Which one to choose depends on the reason and individual preferences.

Types of installation:

The floating installation method involves laying the parquet on a cork base directly on the concrete screed. No glue is used in this case. The parquet is connected using a tongue-and-groove lock.
The adhesive installation method consists of connecting the boards using a tongue-and-groove lock, but with additional gluing with a special glue (not containing water).
The method of laying parquet boards on an old wooden floor is to first level the plank surface using plywood, and then lay the parquet board on top of this structure.
Laying parquet boards on logs is carried out by creating a supporting structure from wooden blocks with a pitch of 300 mm and set at the same level. After which the parquet is laid on top of the logs and secured with nails.

Preparing the base

After purchasing the necessary material and tools for laying the coating, you can begin to work. The first step is to prepare the base. It is desirable that it be smooth and have no differences in height. If leveling the floor under a parquet board is necessary, it can be done in several ways: wet, semi-dry, dry screed, leveling with plywood or using joists. The method is selected depending on the condition and material of the base.

Working with a wooden base

An old wooden floor that cannot be dismantled can be prepared for laying parquet boards in two ways: leveling with plywood or pouring a concrete screed.

Laying parquet boards on plywood is undesirable, as swelling of the materials may occur due to changes in temperature and air humidity.

Leveling a wooden floor with plywood is carried out as follows:

The difference in height is determined.
If the difference is less than 8 mm and there are no sharp irregularities, then the plywood is attached to the old floor boards. If the difference is more than 8 mm, then a plywood sheathing is built from wooden beams and leveled horizontally.
Sheets of plywood are attached to the sheathing.

The second way to level a wooden floor is to pour a floating concrete screed:

The floor structure is strengthened with additional logs.
Waterproofing material (polyethylene film) is laid on the floor boards.
Along the perimeter of the room, foamed polyethylene tape (20 mm wide) is glued to the walls.
Beacons are installed on the film, aligned to the zero level (horizontal of the future screed). The beacons are fastened using the same solution from which the screed is poured.
After the beacons are firmly secured, concrete is poured and aligned to the beacons using a rule.
After the concrete has dried (30 days), the surface is finished and the parquet is laid.

Preparing the concrete base

Leveling a concrete base can be done in several ways. Which one to use depends on the condition of the base:

If the height difference is less than 10 mm, then the base is leveled using self-leveling mixtures.
A difference in height of more than 10 mm is eliminated using a concrete screed device (the process is described above).
Parquet can be installed on logs aligned to the same level. Moreover, the board can be laid directly on the joists or first lay a layer of plywood, and only then the parquet board.

Parquet floor installation

Tips before installing parquet boards in any way:

It is important to maintain the temperature and humidity within the limits indicated on the packaging (usually from 20 degrees Celsius and up to 60%, respectively).
The material should only be unpacked before starting work.
It is necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm between the parquet and the wall. This will allow the wood to expand freely with changes in temperature and humidity.
When laying parquet on concrete, a waterproofing material must be laid.

Floating method

The floating method of laying parquet is suitable for residential premises.

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to lay a parquet board using the floating method:

Waterproofing material (foamed polyethylene or cork material) is laid on the prepared base.
There should be a gap between the walls and the parquet, so bosses of the same size are installed, which are removed after installation of the covering.
If necessary, design the location of the parquet board taking into account design ideas. Parquet boards can be located along the length of the room, along the width and diagonally.
Parquet is laid in rows across the floor area according to the principle of brickwork, that is, each subsequent row is shifted in relation to the previous one.
Parquet elements that do not fit are cut to size.

The parquet planks are connected by inserting the ridge of one element into the groove of another, then the connected elements are tapped with a hammer through a special block so as not to damage the material.

Glue installation method

The sequence of actions of the adhesive method of laying parquet boards is the same as in the floating method technology. Only in this case, special parquet adhesive is used. It contains no water, so it will not harm the parquet.

Laying technology:

Install bosses to maintain the gap between the wall and the covering.
Decide on the location of the parquet board.
Apply a layer of glue to the surface of the base (only for one row).
Lay the first row of parquet boards.
Apply glue for the second row and install it, securing the rows with a tongue-and-groove joint. But at the same time, maintain a constant offset of one row in relation to the other (as in brickwork).

Installation using fasteners

All work is carried out by analogy with the “floating” method of laying parquet boards, but there are features:
Suitable for solid parquet boards or multi-layer boards 20 mm thick.
It is used when massive parquet boards are laid on joists.
Waterproofing is carried out at the stage of installing the logs.
To secure the parquet board, you need to drive a nail into the groove at an angle of 45° or twist a self-tapping screw.

Self-tapping screws or nails should be 2 - 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the board.

An important point in laying parquet is the preparation of the base surface, because if it is uneven, the parquet planks will be under the influence of bending forces, as a result they will deform ahead of time. If the question arises of how to lay a parquet board, then the floating method has a number of advantages: simplified installation, no need to wait for the glue to dry, and the ability to quickly replace a damaged element. But the maximum area for floating technology is 240 m2.

Video - technology for laying Quick-Step parquet boards:

sdelatpol.com

How to lay parquet - diagrams and installation methods, step-by-step instructions!

How to lay parquet

Block parquet

Why parquet?

Parquet laid in a herringbone pattern

On a note! The main disadvantage of the material is its high maintenance requirements. He does not like water, and therefore it is not recommended to wash him often. Also, periodically the coating has to be rubbed with special compounds so that it shines and looks like new.

Laying artistic parquet

Parquet can be of different types, and everyone can choose the most suitable option for themselves. The material can be piece, mosaic, panel, massive, palace. There is also a separate type of parquet, which is called parquet board. All types of material differ in size, methods of laying and working with them. Some are easier to install, some are more difficult, but in any case, the material does not lose its main advantages listed above.

What is good about parquet boards?

Methods for laying parquet

Table. Basic coating installation options.

Way	Characteristic
	This method is usually used if the base is made of plywood. Individual strips of material are placed on thick adhesive applied to the floor using a notched trowel. The choice of adhesive composition is very important and it is selected for a specific type of parquet. For example, if the glue contains more than 50% water, then it should not be used for parquet at all. The method prohibits other work in the room until the adhesive layer has dried, and this is the main drawback. But parquet laid in this way will adhere securely to the base.
Floating	In this case, individual planks are connected to each other using the tongue-and-groove technology - there are special grooves and ridges on each plank, they are butted together and tightly connected. Glue is not used in this case. The good thing about this method is that it allows, if necessary, to disassemble the covering and reassemble it again, but if at least one plank falls out, the floor may completely collapse if measures are not taken.
Using fasteners	Parquet can be attached to the floor with nails. Usually in this case plywood serves as the base. The method is rarely used - builders and craftsmen give preference to the first two installation methods.

Reactive polyurethane parquet adhesive

Important! It is important to work very carefully with polyurethane-based glue. If such a composition gets on the front side of the material, it can damage the coating.

Laying parquet on a wooden floor

Regular piece parquet can be laid in various patterns.

Run-deck

Some parquet laying schemes

Laying Pavlovskaya wicker parquet

How to lay parquet correctly? Important aspects

The air temperature in the room where the work is carried out should be within +18-23 degrees.
Air humidity should be no more than 45-60%.
Before starting work, the parquet must be kept in the room where it will be installed for 7-10 days. This will allow the material to “get used” to future operating conditions.
There should be nothing unnecessary in the room during work.
The base for laying parquet must be carefully prepared - leveled and cleared of debris.
You should not install parquet on old, swollen and damaged flooring.

If all installation conditions are met, as well as proper care of the parquet, the coating can last 60-80 years without any complaints.

Parquet floor

Parquet base

Installation of parquet on logs

Insulation of floor joists

Parquet can be laid not only on plywood, but also on a concrete screed. But it must be perfectly smooth and reliable. If necessary, self-leveling mixtures will help level it. Also, such a base must be primed to ensure maximum adhesion. Then the adhesive composition will stick to it best.

Scheme for laying parquet on a screed

On a note! You can level the concrete base with sheets of plywood. Fastening is done using dowels.

The screed must be dry before laying the parquet.

Parquet flooring needs an underlay

Tools and materials

jigsaw or saw;
grinding machines;
drill, dowels and screws;
hammer;
measuring instruments and pencil;
notched spatula;
brushes and primer;
moisture-proofing material;
adhesive composition;
nails, parquet staples;

Notched trowel

Installation on concrete floor

On a note! Oak parquet is the most durable and reliable, as well as durable, but is quite expensive. Maple and beech materials are cheaper, but not much inferior in quality to oak.

Parquet laying process

Grinding the concrete base

Step 2. The resulting dust and other debris are collected using a vacuum cleaner. Corners and areas near walls are treated especially carefully.

The base is vacuumed

Applying epoxy primer

Step 4. An insulating substrate is placed on the base. It is glued to glue, which is applied to the prepared base using a notched trowel.

The glue is applied with a notched trowel

Step 5. The backing sheets are laid end to end and smoothed by hand.

Laying insulating underlayment

Step 6. The substrate is then rolled with a heavy roller. This procedure will ensure the most reliable connection with the concrete screed.

The substrate is rolled with a heavy roller

Laying mosaic parquet

Step 8 The parquet elements are laid on the adhesive layer in joint with the previously laid ones.

Parquet elements are laid closely

Step 9 Each parquet element is carefully pressed to the base.

When laying the elements, you need to press them firmly to the floor.

Sanding laid parquet

Sanding parquet along walls

Step 11 The mosaic parquet blocks are being puttied. Using a wide spatula, a special composition is applied to the surface of the material and distributed evenly over the base.

Applying putty

Step 12 After this layer has dried, the surface is sanded using a surface grinder for parquet.

After the putty has dried, the parquet is sanded

Application of parquet oil

Step 14 The final stage is polishing the parquet.

Parquet polishing

Video - Laying block parquet

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How to lay parquet boards - We do everything right.ru

Home page » Useful tips » How to lay parquet boards

In this article I will talk about how to properly lay parquet boards.

Parquet boards are an excellent solution for fans of environmentally friendly, natural and at the same time high-tech building materials.

The presented floor covering is only one of the variety available on the construction market. Parquet boards are made by gluing three layers of dies or lamellas from wood of various species.

This coating has a lot of advantages. These include: increased moisture resistance, high-tech processing, modern attractive appearance, etc.

How to prepare the base for parquet boards

Finish floors (such as carpeting, regular tiles or laminate installation) can be installed on several types of surfaces. The choice of foundation depends mainly on the type of building.

For example:

panel or brick house. The floors in them are reinforced concrete industrial or monolithic slabs;
outdated buildings, wooden or frame houses, buildings made of light varieties of concrete. In this case, the load-bearing structures of the floors are wooden or metal beams;
country cottage or private house. In them, on the first floors, the load-bearing structures for the flooring are special supports-columns, the base of which is soil.

In all the cases described above, the finishing coating will be laid using the same technology, but the preparation of the base for the parquet board will be significantly different.

If the floor covering is laid on top of concrete slabs, then a leveling concrete or sand-cement screed is preferably installed underneath it. The finishing coating on a fresh screed can be installed no earlier than thirty days after it was poured. In any case, before starting work, you should make sure that the surface is dry enough for this.

How to determine the degree of readiness of a concrete slab for laying parquet boards on a screed? It is necessary to cut out a sufficiently large square from plastic and secure it tightly to the stove using tape. For the same purposes, you can use a glass jar, placing it on the floor with the neck down.

After 24 - 48 hours, remove the plastic and check if there is condensation on it. Its absence indicates insignificant humidity, which, in turn, allows you to begin laying the parquet boards on the screed.

If there is strong condensation, then you need to either wait a little longer (wait until the surface is completely dry), or use some means to reduce the humidity in the room.

When preparing the base for further laying of parquet boards, regardless of the material used (it can be plywood, logs, chipboard, etc.), it is imperative to lay a hydro- and vapor barrier layer. The material used for it is polyethylene, roofing felt or a special waterproofing film.

Cut strips of insulating material are laid on a concrete base. They should be spread with an overlap of at least 15 - 20 cm. They are connected to each other using tape or mastic.

If in the room located below the equipped floor the humidity level exceeds the permissible level, then professionals advise laying two layers of insulating material and using bitumen mastic.

In some cases, if necessary, an additional layer of heat and sound insulation is installed. When using plywood for flooring, the insulation is made of polyethylene or polyurethane foam.

Plywood can be attached to the slab either with screws or with steel dowels. Holes should be drilled in the concrete first. Fixing a sheet of plywood begins from its center. Each sheet must be secured at thirty-two points. Only after this can you begin to lay the parquet board. Having prepared the surface of the concrete slab in the manner described above, moisture-resistant plywood is laid on it over the entire area. Its thickness should be about 2 cm. When installing the coating, make sure that the end seams of the sheets are spaced apart. There should be a gap of 5 mm between the individual elements, and 10 - 15 mm between the sheets of plywood and the surface of the walls. In the area of doorways and other similar areas (in those where the cracks are not covered by baseboards), the sheets are mounted almost flush. The distance between them should be no more than 2 mm.

If there are beam floors, before laying the parquet board, a subfloor is laid as the base. If the location is too large beams from each other, logs are arranged.

The humidity of the logs should not exceed 12%, the distance between them should be from 40 to 60 cm.

The timber used for laying lags must be treated with an antiseptic. You can refuse impregnation only if the logs are made of larch wood, since this material is practically not subject to rotting.

The timber is laid exclusively on a pad made of cork (for sound insulation), roofing felt (for waterproofing), polyurethane and polyethylene. They are spread over the entire area of the beam; there should be no breaks.

Installation of parquet boards

With temperature changes and a sharp increase in humidity, thanks to the three-layer glued construction, the parquet board practically does not change in its geometric dimensions.

This quality allows its installation using several methods. As in the case of a floating floor, the planks may not be mounted to the base, but glued together on all sides or connected to each other using special locks. They can also be attached to the subfloor using staples. In this case, the staples are installed in the lower “cheeks” of the tongues.

The products are sold in hermetically sealed packages. The humidity of this material is approximately 7%. The air humidity in the room in which the presented coating will be installed should not exceed 30/60% at a temperature of + 20 degrees Celsius.

It is necessary to lay a underlay between the finishing floors and the waterproofing layer. Porous polyethylene, which has closed cells, is often used as it. It helps smooth out minor unevenness in the base floor. You can use a substrate that has thermal and/or sound insulating properties. The thickness of this layer should not exceed 0.3 cm. The substrate is laid without overlapping the sections on each other.

Before laying the parquet board, it must be covered with drying oil on the back side. You can also use other paints and varnishes that provide additional protection against high humidity.

During installation, gaps of 1.5 cm should be left between the wall and parquet boards. This is also done in cases with doorways, heating pipes and the like.

The first parquet board is laid with a groove to the wall surface, while it is necessary to leave a compensation gap 1 - 1.5 cm wide. Then the remaining boards are laid without gluing. The end panel in the row should be rotated 180 degrees (with its front side facing up) and placed next to the already laid boards. At its end you need to leave a gap of 0.8 cm from the wall, put a mark and cut along it. When the wall is curved, their outline is marked on the first row of parquet boards. The boards are cut along the marked lines.

The first row is mounted as level as possible. This aspect can be checked using a cord. Each subsequent row begins with cutting the board from the previous row. After the first two rows of parquet boards have been laid, you can begin gluing them. To do this, you need to use a special glue for parquet boards; PVA glue and waterproof adhesive mastics are also well suited. Adhesive compounds should be applied in a thick layer to the end and longitudinal tenons of the panel. Using a wood spacer and a hammer, carefully connect the boards. After this, use tension straps to tighten them. Please note that the adhesive must come out of the joints onto the surface. Only then can we talk about high-quality gluing of the panels. Use a spatula to remove any glue on the surface. The boards should be wiped with a damp cloth or sponge. The last board in the row is pressed with a tie. Along the perimeter, after finishing the work, the laid panels are fixed with plinths.

In order to avoid moisture or shrinkage, varnish must be applied to the parquet board. It is necessary to coat the material with a varnish composition at least twice. This work is carried out within one week after laying the parquet boards.

If during the installation of boards there are differences in their thickness between some individual panels, then such areas are leveled with sandpaper. The coating is sanded only along the wood grain.

If mechanical damage was caused during installation of the parquet boards, they should be puttied. For these works, one-component mastics are used. Before application, the substance must be diluted with water. Mastic should be applied slightly more than the size of the damage, since after drying it decreases in volume. The dried, corrected areas are sanded.

The floors are varnished with polyurethane - acrylic varnish (it dissolves in water). This material is semi-gloss. You can also apply alkyd-polyurethane varnish or special parquet varnish. These materials are highly wear-resistant and are not susceptible to the negative effects of household chemicals, moisture and various fats. After the surface is varnished, it must be left for a day. Only after 24 hours can you walk on it. Furniture can be installed only after a week.

Floating floor installation. Using special locks

Let's consider the construction of a floating floor that has a locking system.

First of all, you need to check the moisture level of the base. This is especially important when laying parquet boards with a locking system.

The moisture content of the concrete surface should not exceed 2%. For wooden coverings this figure can reach 8%. For anhydride base – 0.5%.

Purchased parquet boards should be left in the room in which they will be installed at least 2 days before the planned work.

Before installation, parquet boards must be sorted by shades, colors and patterns.

It is recommended to use natural materials as a substrate when installing parquet boards, such as:

cork;
corrugated cardboard;
pressed slabs.

First, determine the direction in which the parquet board will be installed. This decision is based on the configuration of the room and its lighting. After this, the width of the room is measured.

The width of the compensation gaps is subtracted from the calculated parameter (it is equal to 2 cm). The result obtained is divided by the width of one strip. this way the number of rows and the width of the last one are determined.

If the last row is less than 7 cm, then the width of the first row should be reduced.

The first row is mounted with the upper locking part to the wall surface. They are connected from the end. Parquet boards are laid parallel to each other in the lock. For finishing, a hammer with appropriate accessories or special installation tools are used. After the first row has been laid, wedges are placed between the panels and the wall.

Installation of subsequent rows begins with cutting the boards remaining from the previous row. The only condition: it must be longer than 50 cm. It is laid at an angle with a tenon in the groove. You need to press it with your hand towards the already arranged row.

The planks are carefully tapped through the block. The next panel is mounted in exactly the same way. In this case, a gap of 3 cm is left between the ends.

After the boards are correctly joined, they should be carefully knocked together from the short side. They are connected at the ends.

Each subsequent row of boards is pressed against the previous one along its length from the end side. There should be no gaps at the end connections. For this work, special installation tools are used.

Mounting straps are not used when assembling the covering with the locking system. In areas with obstacles, such as columns, heating systems, etc., their configuration is marked on the slats, a hole is cut along the lines and then the panel is mounted. You should always remember to maintain the expansion joint.

When laying the last row, it is measured with extreme precision. In very rare cases, walls are located at an angle of exactly 90 degrees to each other. Therefore, the boards should be narrowed to the required dimensions by cutting them to length. After the last row is aligned with the rest, it is pressed using mounting tools.

The flooring is completely laid. Now you need to remove the spacer wedges. Then the floor skirting boards are installed. You can walk on the surface immediately after laying the parquet board.

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How to lay parquet boards with your own hands: technology

People who have practicality, good taste and do not want to skimp on their comfort often choose parquet as a floor covering. After all, with proper care, it is very durable and has a beautiful appearance. Moreover, due to being made from 100% natural material, parquet is absolutely environmentally friendly.

But proper installation of parquet requires professionalism, and just anyone will not be able to do it. Everything changed when the production of parquet boards began in the 90s. Now the wood floor has the form of panels that interlock with each other and can be laid by anyone who knows how to use the tool and follows the installation rules. Further in the article we will try to figure out how to properly lay parquet boards and what are the nuances when working with this material.

Description of material

Let's start with a correct understanding of parquet boards as one of the types of wooden flooring. In its structure, it consists of wooden planks glued together from different wood species, which are located perpendicular to one another. This was done to increase the strength of the floor covering and make it resistant to temperature changes.

Parquet boards usually consist of three layers of wood:

Sanded and coated with several layers of varnish or oil. It usually has a thickness of 4 mm and is made of valuable wood to give the coating an aesthetic appearance.
It is considered basic and has a thickness of up to 9 mm.
The third (1.5-3 mm) ensures the stability of all planks and, together with the second layer, is made of coniferous species. Recently, plywood is increasingly appearing instead of the third layer to reduce the cost of coating.

Types of parquet boards

Before laying a parquet board, you need to make a choice and know its varieties. Thus, it differs in the top layer of valuable wood species, which can have from one to three stripes. Hence the parquet board can be single-strip, double-strip and three-strip.

The top layer of a single-sheet parquet board is solid and consists entirely of one sheet along its entire length. Since it is most difficult and expensive for a manufacturer to produce such a layer, the board has the highest cost.

In a two-strip parquet board, the top layer consists of two strips of the same width, evenly spaced along the entire length. The cost of such a board is inferior to the single-strip type.

The cheapest would be a three-strip type of parquet board, the top layer of which also consists of valuable wood, but has three strips of equal width.

Advantages and disadvantages

The described type of coating was invented with the aim of creating an alternative to parquet. There is no doubt that the parquet board consists exclusively of natural wood with all its advantages. It is sold completely ready for installation, since the material supplied for sale is panels that are equipped with locks for easy installation and do not require additional processing.

The advantages of parquet boards include less susceptibility to changes in temperature compared to parquet, which often swells in the warm season due to increased humidity, and in winter, due to the use of room heating means, begins to dry out and may even crack. The design of the parquet board allows it to bend and thus withstand deformation.

In terms of cost, parquet boards also outperform parquet due to the use of less natural material for production. But the disadvantage is the significantly reduced service life (10-15 years) of this material. It is also noted that parquet boards cannot replace the feeling of warm wood while walking on the floor.

Preparing the base

After selecting and purchasing a parquet board, the most important stage of preparing the base begins, since laying a parquet board is allowed only on a carefully prepared surface. It can be wooden or concrete; laying on logs or plywood is also used. But all expectations of the delights of a new comfortable floor will be groundless if the rough work is not done to prepare the base according to the following rules:

The base must be perfectly flat and strong. If the surface is durable, but has many minor differences, then self-leveling dry construction mixtures are used. If the base has significant differences, it is necessary to perform a screed.
Wood does not tolerate moisture, so the base must be dry and free of microorganisms (mold, fungus).
Any cracks, lifting or peeling are not allowed. Cracks are covered, peelings are cleaned and brought to the ideal level of the base, rises are removed and cleaned.
The surface must be cleaned of dirt and dust.
The parquet board is laid exclusively on the substrate. It can be made of foamed polyethylene or pressed cork. In rooms with high humidity (toilet, bathroom, sauna, etc.), a 0.2 mm polyethylene film is additionally laid on the base with an overlap of 20 cm.
It is recommended to keep the parquet board in the room where it will be laid for two weeks before installation.

It is also possible to lay parquet boards on heated floors, but this has its own nuances.

Installation on heated concrete floor

Parquet boards are able to evenly distribute incoming heat. Therefore, heated floors will be a good basis for it. But before laying the parquet board on a warm floor and during further operation, it is important to perform several simple tasks:

It is necessary to turn on the floors at least 2 weeks before the start of installation at 2/3 of their rated power, and a couple of days before installation, transfer them to a level of 18 ° C.
When using the floor, it is important not to allow heating above 27 ° C, otherwise the temperature will have a detrimental effect on the coating - the floor dries out and the wood may shrink further.
Temperature changes throughout the day should remain within 5 °C.
Wood species of beech, maple and jatoba react more strongly than others to moisture and temperature changes, and therefore it is not recommended to lay such types of parquet boards either on heated concrete floors or in wet rooms.

Expansion seam

As already mentioned, due to its naturalness, wood reacts strongly to the level of humidity and ambient temperature. The consequence is the process of swelling or shrinkage of the material, which must be taken into account during installation in order to prevent deformation of the floor.

To do this, an expansion joint of 7 to 15 mm is left between the edges of the board and the wall, pipe, door casing, etc., which will prevent the board from resting against the wall when swelling. In the future, it can be easily covered with skirting boards or thresholds.

To prevent gaps from appearing between the plinth and the board in the winter (when the floor dries out), when choosing a plinth, ensure that its width is one third greater than the width of the expansion joint. It is also worth making sure that after installation, no cables or other objects get into this seam that would interfere with its purpose.

Laying direction

To determine how best to lay parquet boards, you need to be guided by the direction of the incident light in the room. If the room has an oblong shape, it is better to lay the board lengthwise. When laying on a wooden base, the installation direction is determined by laying the parquet boards transversely on the subfloor boards.

How to lay parquet boards: technology

Laying should begin by calculating the number of rows based on the width of the room. If the width of the last row is less than 4 cm, then the first row should be cut. Since parquet boards can be laid correctly only taking into account the expansion joint, its size must be taken into account when calculating the number of rows. Also, to maintain the expansion joint, the ridges that are intended for fastening with other boards should be cut off from the boards of the first row of installation.

Speaking about installation technology, it is worth noting that it does not require professional knowledge of the builder. Of course, having experience in such work, you can cope with the installation of a parquet floor much faster, but the lack of experience will not be an obstacle. So, now we will figure out how to lay a parquet board yourself:

First, along the walls where the installation is taking place, wedges are placed that will maintain the gap between the boards and the wall. They can be bought or cut to the desired size from the same parquet board.
It is better to start laying from left to right, from a solid wall, placing the first board with a cut ridge against the wall in the corner. Then lay the first row, placing the short side of another board against the first short side of the board. The latter should stand at an angle to the first and rest its tenon against the groove of the first. Pressing down carefully, we lower the second board, and its tenon falls into the groove, forming a lock between the two boards.

Next, the first row is laid in the same way. If the lock latches with difficulty, then a slight rocking of the board while lowering is allowed. But this must be done carefully and without harm to the castle as a whole.
The last board of the row is cut with a saw or grinder, taking into account the expansion joint and laid in the next row.
Next, the second row is formed, and its longitudinal tenons are gradually inserted into the grooves of the first. In places where the locks are not latched tightly, it is allowed to knock the board with a rubber hammer. To do this, a small wooden block is placed on the opposite side of the board, and it is carefully knocked down with a hammer until the lock is completely closed.
The transverse joints between the boards in both rows should not coincide. You need to make sure that they are at least 30 cm apart from each other. This is how the installation continues until the end of the room.

Methods for laying parquet boards

Another significant difference between a parquet board and solid or block parquet is the variety of ways to lay it. Such opportunities contribute to the wider use of parquet boards as an alternative to parquet flooring. Depending on the base for laying, there are 3 main methods for laying parquet boards:

Floating.
Glue.
On the logs.

Floating method

It’s worth noting right away that this method is similar to the method of laying laminate flooring and is the simplest and most inexpensive. The boards are placed on a special substrate and are not attached to the base. But due to the deformation of the substrate or the imperfection of the base, over time one way or another, deflections of the parquet board will form. It is thanks to them that a board laid using this method cannot be restored without complete dismantling.

If you are installing a large amount of furniture or other heavy objects, this installation method is not recommended, as gaps may form between the joints of the boards.

Glue installation method

It is used when a solid subfloor is absolutely necessary or when laying over large areas. When using this method, nothing will be better than laying the parquet board on plywood, preferably moisture-resistant. To do this, glue is applied to an absolutely flat surface and plywood is laid in a checkerboard pattern in sheets up to 80 cm. Small gaps of 3 to 6 mm are left between them so that the material “breathes” and deformation does not occur due to temperature changes. Next, the plywood is screwed to the base using dowels and screws. Now you can lay the parquet board, but only after 2-3 days after the glue has completely dried.

The board is attached to the plywood using polyurethane glue. Laying parquet boards both on glue and on a base without it is equally simple. This process easily fits into the general installation technology. The main thing is to not allow the glue to dry out and immediately remove any remaining glue from the seams.

Laying on joists

This method makes it possible to quickly and reliably arrange a base for a parquet board. With a flat surface, the logs are attached to the floor at a distance of up to 900 mm. If the base is uneven, then beams are screwed into the logs, which are adjusted in height with bolts.

The base for the parquet board is laid on the logs to distribute the load. It can be made from fiberboard, chipboard or special large-sized parquet slabs.

There are also options for directly laying parquet boards on logs. Next, the process is carried out using general technology.

How to lay parquet boards on a wooden floor

The difficulty of such work lies in the lack of perfect fastening of the wooden floor to the base, as a result of which kinks, creaks, gaps, etc. arise. This can be combated with the help of coarse putty mixed with sawdust. This mixture clogs all gaps, joints and junctions. This is followed by grinding the base using special equipment.

Plywood is often used to smooth out all irregularities and remove gaps, secured to the floor with self-tapping screws. Laying parquet boards is done using the adhesive method.

Existing methods of laying parquet boards allow it to be used in almost any conditions, and in appearance it is not inferior to parquet. At the same time, the costs will be significantly lower than the costs of parquet, especially if you lay the parquet boards yourself.

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How to lay a parquet board depending on the rough base?

Among modern floor coverings, parquet boards rank high. When decorated with such finishing material, the room takes on a beautiful appearance, and this indicates the good taste of the owner. Previously, parquet was an expensive material and its installation also required experience and skills. But, with the development of new technologies, all processes have become easier. At the moment, this work can be done independently. It is enough to know how to use the tool and study the installation instructions well.

How to lay parquet boards and prepare the floor?

The most important factor in this process is the choice of quality coating – wood. It is better not to chase cheap material, but to opt for a well and properly dried coating with good geometry. Another important factor is the quality of the adhesive composition. It would be good to give preference to an already proven option, so as not to spoil the final result.

Preparation for installation

In order to properly prepare the surface for laminate assembly, it is important to decide what type of base will be chosen. The installation technology is the same in all cases, only the base may differ significantly.

If the coating is laid on concrete slabs, then it is necessary to level it with a concrete or cement-sand screed.

Cement screed for parquet boards

It is not recommended to install laminate flooring on a fresh screed; it must be left for at least a month, and it is best to wait for the surface to dry completely. The degree of drying can be checked. To do this, cut a large square from the laminate and use tape to secure it tightly to the plane. You can also take a regular jar and place it on the floor with the neck down. After the square has been passed for at least 40 hours, it is necessary to disconnect it and check whether condensation has collected. If it is missing, then you can start assembling the parquet board, and if it is, then you should still give it time to dry. You can try to reduce the humidity in the room using some method. Requirements for the screed:

It is better if the residual humidity reaches no more than 5%;
Differences on the surface should not exceed 2 mm;
With high humidity, wait until the norm is normal;

At this stage it is necessary to have a laser level and a moisture meter in order to determine the residual moisture or use the advice above.

When preparing the base for the laminate, regardless of what material will be used, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer.

Laying a waterproofing layer

To do this, you will need roofing felt, ordinary but dense polyethylene, or a waterproofing film specially made for this purpose. The prepared strips of this material should be laid on a concrete base with an overlap of 15 or 20 centimeters. The joints can be connected to each other with mastic or tape. If the room is located in such a way that the humidity level is often high, experts advise making two layers of insulation: a waterproofing layer and bitumen mastic. Some cases also require the installation of a layer of sound insulation and thermal insulation. If plywood is used for covering, the insulation should be made of foamed polyurethane or polyethylene. If logs are used between them, it is necessary to use a special insulation made of mineral wool.

Plywood is laid to concrete with screws and dowels. But, before this, you first need to drill holes of the appropriate size for them. The plywood must be attached from the middle of the sheet.

Arrangement of plywood sheets

Before laying the laminate flooring, you need to secure the plywood sheet in approximately 32 places. Its thickness should be at least 2 centimeters. During fixation, it is important to ensure that the seams are not staggered.

If there are beams on the surface, before laying the parquet board, you should make a subfloor. If the beams are far from each other, it is necessary to install logs. The distance between the logs should be approximately 50-60 centimeters.

No. 4 Installation of wooden logs

The timber that will be used for logs must be pre-treated with an antiseptic. But, if they are made of larch beams, you can refuse this process. This material is of very high quality and does not rot. It needs to be placed on a special cork pad to provide sound insulation and roofing material to perform waterproofing. This material must be laid out around the entire perimeter, without gaps.

To lay high-quality parquet, the surface must be perfectly flat.

If you look from the bottom up, you can see such a “parquet cake” consisting of layers:

Flooring made of concrete mixture;
Waterproofing layer;
Self-leveling agent;
Primer;
Adhesive;
Plywood is moisture resistant;
Parquet glue;
Parquet board.

As waterproofing, you can use not only polyethylene film, but also foil-clad polypropylene reinforced film.

Purchased goods in packages should be opened in advance so that the material can adapt to room temperature. It is better to do this process several weeks before the installation begins, but, as a last resort, 48 hours in advance. Installation of the board is not permissible if the concrete screed has a difference of more than 2 cm. But suddenly this situation is discovered, it can be corrected by using a self-leveling mixture.

Installation of parquet on a wooden floor

Savings should always be justified. It is important to check before assembling the laminate how suitable the existing wood flooring is to serve as a base for the subsequent material. It must be durable and withstand certain loads. But how to find out? What conditions apply to rough wood covering?

Check the slope of the wooden floorboards, and for two linear meters it should be no more than 2 mm.
When walking, the boards should not creak;
There are no significant differences;
When moving, the boards do not move and are well fixed;
Make sure that all boards of the old covering are tongue and groove.

If you have even the slightest doubt, you can ask a professional for advice, and also not take risks, but dismantle the old wooden floor yourself. But, if everything is fine and the coating is suitable, then you can begin preparing the base for installing parquet.

Installation of parquet boards on a wooden floor

Preliminary work with the base

All boards that move a little must be firmly fixed. Then clean from dust and dirt, as well as grind. After the wooden floor is prepared, it should be treated with an antiseptic. Old wooden boards must be covered with glue and moisture-resistant plywood, the thickness of which is 12 mm, placed on top. It is also important to leave expansion joints of about 2 mm between the sheets. Then secure the sheets with screws with a distance of 20-25 centimeters between them. Fixation should be carried out so that the screw head extends approximately 3 millimeters into the sheet. To remove defects and irregularities on plywood, you need to sand the surface with a special machine.

Sanding a wooden surface

There are some rules that must be followed when installing laminate flooring on a wooden surface.

All rough work indoors must be completed;
During installation, it is important to comply with the established temperature conditions, as well as the percentage of humidity;
The temperature in the room should not be more than 24 degrees;
The humidity in the room is no more than 60%.
The humidity of the base on which the parquet will be installed is no more than 6%.

Laying process

Experts give advice on laying laminate flooring: the boards must be assembled in a different direction from the wooden floor; it should be laid transversely or diagonally. The parquet is fixed using an adhesive. It must be applied to the base and the board should be placed so that maximum contact between the segments is achieved. The boards can also be pulled together, if necessary, with wooden wedges. Leave a compensatory gap between the walls and the parquet.

Laying parquet boards

The boards that are located in the first row should be oriented towards the wall with a groove. Place the screws so that after installation they can be hidden by the floor with a plinth. A parquet board with a width of more than 15 centimeters must be additionally fixed on the front side. This step can be performed as a decorative element and drive a self-tapping screw 1 centimeter deep and cover the hole with a colored wooden plug.

How to properly lay parquet boards on joists?

This process does not contain wet and dirty steps, and no cement mortars will be required. This method is practical, since it is possible to lay various wiring, cables or pipes between the joists, and you can also lay an insulating layer.

There is no need to allocate time for drying the screed, which significantly reduces the installation time of the floor covering to less than a month.

Leagues are pieces of dry timber that are pre-coated with an antiseptic. It will serve as excellent protection against harmful influences and the occurrence of fungus and mold, which can shorten the life of the surface.

The logs must be placed so that they are perpendicular to the parquet board and secured to each other. It is important to level them. If there are some unevennesses, they can be corrected by tapping. And then attach special wedges to them.

Instead of regular lags, you can use adjustable ones. They are the same as wooden blocks, only they have through threaded holes into which plastic stand-up bolts should be screwed, which are firmly fastened to the ceiling. The height of these racks is adjusted with a special key. At this moment, the logs can rise or fall, leveling the surface.

Layers of plywood must be laid on top of the joists. First, the first one, which is attached with self-tapping screws, and then the second one - with glue, and then also with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should not be buried more than 4 mm. Plywood with a total thickness must be at least 20 millimeters. Large sheets can be sawed into even pieces to relieve internal stress. The topmost layer must be sanded and only then the parquet board should be laid on it.

It is possible to install parquet boards on old parquet flooring. This process should only be performed if it is still strong enough and does not creak. In this case, it is necessary to carry out thorough sanding to achieve a perfectly smooth parquet surface. It should be used with a drum sander to remove defects and irregularities. Then the surface must be puttied. For this you can use fine parquet dust, which was obtained during the grinding process and a special liquid.

After the sanding process, the parquet must be varnished three to seven times using a roller.

Hiding parquet boards with varnish

The first layer is a primer that saturates the pores of the board. Before applying the final coat, the pre-applied varnish must be sanded to remove wood fluff. It rises up from the impact of previous layers of varnish on the wood.

How to install a floor-standing boiler in a private house - installation of double-circuit gas equipment, how to install a heating boiler, standards, parameters, work procedure

In recent years, parquet boards have become a very popular coating, as they are one of the most aesthetic materials for flooring. It is suitable for flooring in almost any room of a house or apartment, with the exception of the bathroom (due to high humidity). However, if you purchase a high-quality floor covering, install it correctly and follow the operating instructions, even in a damp room the parquet board can last quite a long time.

In any case, it is not enough to purchase a high-quality coating - its durability depends on proper installation. Call a specialist? - this may not be cheap, comparable to the cost of the material. Maybe you should try to do this work yourself? Why not, if you apply your skills and diligence. So, laying parquet boards with your own hands, step-by-step instructions with illustrations.

What is a parquet board?

The structure of the parquet board

First of all, let’s remember once again what is hidden under the term “parquet board”.

This type of coating, as an alternative, was patented back in 1941. During its development, higher resistance to external influences was achieved, with a significant reduction in the cost of the material. Initially, the parquet board consisted of two layers. Subsequently, with the advent of innovative technologies, it was modernized several times, however, the material of its manufacture remained unchanged - natural wood. Thanks to this, this flooring remains in great demand for many decades. In particular, parquet boards have become popular recently, when eco-style is being revived in designer fashion.

Today, as a rule, three-layer parquet boards go on sale, which first appeared on the market in 1946 and turned out to be much more practical than the original version. The Tarkett company began producing this coating, which to this day supplies its products all over the world, while remaining a leader in this area of production.

The strength and durability of this flooring is due to the structural structure of the board. Each layer of the “pie” has a different thickness. Well, the position of the wood fibers in each of the subsequent layers has a direction perpendicular to the previous one. In the lower and upper layers, the fibers run along the board, and in the middle, respectively, across. It is this arrangement that gives the material strength and eliminates the risk of deformation.

The top layer of parquet boards is made from high-quality hardwood. The layer is not only decorative - it has excellent wear resistance, has a thickness of at least four millimeters. Since the appearance of the parquet board depends on the quality of this material, the wood for the top layer is carefully selected. The lamellas from which the board is made must not have any defects. They are selected according to textured pattern, as well as color shade. The lamellas are adjusted to each other, glued together, and then fixed to the base also with glue. Some models of parquet boards have a solid coating made from high-quality natural veneer. They are also called single-strip boards.
Coniferous wood is usually used to make the middle layer. The blanks have semi-vertical or vertical annual rings, which are able to evenly distribute the load and impart increased stability to the material. This layer consists of perfectly processed dies of equal width (20÷30 mm), which are laid across. The thickness of the middle layer is 7÷8 mm. As a rule, it contains locking connections - shaped grooves and tenons.
The bottom layer consists of one or two whole boards and is stabilizing. It creates a reliable and stable support for the upper structure and prevents its deflection. The thickness of this layer is no more than 4 mm.

The surface of the outer layer of the finished parquet board is carefully sanded and then covered with protective and decorative compounds, which are applied in several layers - this is putty, then a primer, lining and decorative varnish, which, after application, hardens under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Thanks to the outer layer, the finished coating becomes resistant to fading and mechanical damage. This type of flooring does not require additional varnishing after installation.

Prices for parquet boards

parquet board

Advantages and disadvantages of parquet boards

Like any other floor covering, parquet boards have their advantages and disadvantages. They are best viewed by comparing it with other popular floor coverings.

The main advantage of parquet boards, compared to linoleum and laminate, is its environmental friendliness, since it is made only from natural wood.
Parquet board, with high-quality installation, is indistinguishable from natural parquet, and a film with a textured wood pattern is applied to linoleum and laminate. In the best case, the laminate can be covered with natural veneer glued to MDF.
In parquet boards, solid wood is used only for the top layer, while piece parquet is made entirely from natural wood, but also costs several times more than the first. However, parquet boards are more resistant to deformation processes than parquet, since they have the design described above - alternating layers with different fiber directions. Parquet is quite capricious a material that requires periodic maintenance, and if everything is left to chance, the wood may swell from high humidity or begin to dry out when there is not enough moisture. As a result, the parquet strips begin to deform - to bend and warp.
Compared to the same parquet, parquet boards are much faster and more convenient to install, since they are large in size. In addition, laying the board does not require special skills. It is enough to have a ready-made, even base for the coating and instructions for its installation.

Parquet, on the other hand, is not so easy to lay, so it is laid by professional craftsmen, whose work is not cheap at all.

If any mistakes were made when laying the parquet board, they can be corrected if the material was not installed with glue. Corrections will be much more difficult with parquet.
Unlike parquet, parquet boards go on sale with a protective coating applied and can be used for quite a long time without additional treatment. Parquet, after laying it, requires sanding and then coating with special oil or
A parquet board can imitate parquet, the dies of which are laid in rows with a shift relative to each other, as well as in the form of plank floorboards.
Parquet boards perfectly imitate plank floors. Moreover the latter is rarely made from valuable wood, as it is too expensive. But a parquet board covered with a layer of expensive wood will cost much less.
The service life of a parquet board is 20–30 years, depending on the quality and timeliness of its care, as well as on the accuracy and intensity of its use. In contrast, parquet and solid boards have a longer service life, but require more careful maintenance - sanding, painting or varnishing or oiling. However, it is necessary to clarify that the parquet board can also be sanded to renew it. And some of its models, having thick enough the top layer is 6 mm, can be sanded 10 or even more times.

Prices for linoleum

linoleum

To summarize, we can come to the conclusion that the design of parquet boards is less demanding to maintain than parquet, and also differs positively in its environmental friendliness from laminate and linoleum. The price of a parquet board cannot be called low, however, its installation can be done independently, while it is unlikely that it will be possible to cope with the installation of natural parquet on your own.

Preparing the base for laying parquet boards

Parquet flooring can be laid on various bases - concrete floors, plank or plywood floors, and even on an old but durable floor lined with ceramic tiles. The main thing is that the base is smooth, without protrusions or large depressions, so the surface must be carefully prepared.

The preparatory activities before laying parquet boards include several points, without which it is impossible to obtain a high-quality floor covering.

The first step is a thorough inspection of the foundation. If cracks, depressions or protrusions are found, they must be eliminated. The cracks are expanded and sealed with concrete or other composite repair mortar(with special putty). Individual recesses are also leveled with concrete, and big enough the protrusions are knocked down. Small imperfections can be smoothed out by laying a special underlay on the floors.
In addition, the base surface is checked for evenness using a building level. It is acceptable for unevenness to be 2÷2.5 mm per linear meter, but no more.
If the quality of the base does not fit within the permissible errors, then leveling will have to be arranged. Depending on the type of floor, you can use a screed for this (for example,), or put the floor in a horizontal plane with the installation of joists and subsequent fastening of plywood or boards to them.

If only minor defects in the floor are found, which still need to be leveled, this can also be done by attaching plywood sheets to the concrete base, laying them according to the “brickwork” principle, that is, in a staggered manner. The sheets can be screwed or glued to the concrete.

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Before laying parquet boards or plywood directly on concrete, the base must be well primed to strengthen the surface and prevent the appearance of dust.
If the board will be laid directly on a concrete surface, then a substrate will be laid underneath it.

Foamed polyethylene, thin sheets of extruded polystyrene, and cork material in slabs and rolls are used as this layer.

A cork sheet or slab backing is most often glued to the base, since it not only smoothes out small irregularities, but also acts as insulation.

Both roll and slab materials are laid end-to-end.

It is not recommended to use an old carpet or carpet, as well as linoleum as a substrate, as this material can become deformed and pull the parquet boards along with it. In addition, during its operation, old flooring absorbs various odors that a new parquet board cannot hide.

You need to prepare not only materials, but also tools to perform the work. The list of things required for installation includes:

- electric jigsaw, circular saw or hacksaw with fine tooth pitch;

- rubber hammer - for tamping rows;

- screwdriver;

- rule and construction level;

- square and tape measure;

- regular and notched spatulas;

— a special bracket for tightening boards. It can be purchased ready-made or made independently from a steel strip 4÷5 mm thick.

- tamping block. Can also be “store bought” or homemade;

- spacer wedges.

Having prepared everything you need, you need to do a thorough cleaning again. In particular, the floor surface must be carefully treated before laying any material. Any small pebble that accidentally remains on the coating can greatly harm the overall quality of the resulting floor.

Features of laying parquet boards

Before moving on to the step-by-step instructions for installing parquet flooring, it’s worth talking a little about some of the nuances of its installation, which you also need to have information about.

The first thing to remember is that the parquet board purchased and brought into the house must be aged in the room where it will subsequently be laid. This is especially important to consider if the purchase was made during the cold season, and the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors is quite large. In the room where the covering will be laid, the air temperature should be at least 18 degrees and the humidity 30÷60%. To “track”, it is better to free the board from the factory polymer packaging.

Before moving on to preparing the floors and installing the covering, you need to draw up in advance an approximate layout of the board, taking into account its length and width. Thanks to this drawing, it will be easier to navigate when laying masonry. It becomes possible to immediately determine the best size of cut boards, which are usually laid along both edges of the row or only on one side.
Sections of boards laid in a row must have a length of at least 500 mm.
When drawing up a diagram, you also need to take into account the width of the boards of the last row, since they, as a rule, have to be trimmed. If they have a width of less than 60 mm, then the covering should be moved a little, that is, cutting the boards not only of the last, but also of the first row.
Parquet boards are laid “in a running pattern”. This means that the boards of the second row are offset by ½ or ⅓ of the length relative to the first row.
Taking into account the features and shape of the room, the location is chosen, that is, the direction of laying the boards, which determines the pattern.

— The simplest option, which is most often chosen for installation, is to install the board along or across the room. It is worth considering that if the board is laid across the room, it will visually make it wider, and longitudinal installation will lengthen it. This “optical game” will help solve the problem of a room that is too long or narrow.

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underlay for parquet

— The second installation option is diagonal laying. It is more complex to implement and involves quite a lot of waste, which means that the cost of purchasing a board will be increased, since more will be required. her quantity. This installation method is perfect for flooring in square rooms and visually expands the space of the room. When making diagonal masonry, the end edges of the boards closest to the wall are cut cleanly, at an angle of 45 or 30 degrees. Installation of the covering begins from the middle of the room. To do this, a line is drawn diagonally across the room - from corner to corner - or a cord is pulled along which the first row of covering is laid. Then, the masonry continues first in one and then in the other direction from the central row.

Parquet board installation technology

Understanding the technological methods of laying this covering, you need to consider all aspects.

So, parquet boards can be laid in three ways - “floating” masonry, with glue or with logs. To decide which one is suitable for a particular case, you need to find out what they are and understand their advantages and disadvantages.

"Floating" parquet flooring

This installation of parquet boards is carried out without fixing the covering to the base. Well, its solidity is achieved only through locking connections located along the edges of the boards.

Such installation includes several stages, which will be discussed in detail in the instruction table below. Now we can only dwell on the positive and negative aspects of this method.

TO "pros" This technology includes:

Simplicity and speed of masonry.
Possibility to correct errors made during installation.
Possibility of replacing individual covering boards if they are damaged.
Easy to dismantle the board and the possibility of recycling. For example, the coating is tired or has lost its relevance or aesthetics, so it was decided to replace it. The board can be easily removed and transferred to the dacha, where it can be placed again in one of the rooms.
The resistance of the floating coating to temperature fluctuations, since the design has the ability to expand the material.
Saving on glue purchases.
The floating coating can be used immediately after completion of installation work.

"Cons" This installation method can be considered:

The “floating” coating is not suitable for installation in rooms with an area of more than 50 square meters.
It is not recommended for installation in rooms where high loads will be placed on the floors.
The coating is sensitive even to small irregularities, so it is necessary to cover it. However, this material will be cheaper than special glue.

Adhesive method of installing parquet boards

The name of this installation method speaks for itself. That is, with this approach, the parquet board is laid on a special glue applied to the base.

Moreover When purchasing glue, you need to make sure that it is suitable for the specific type of parquet board.

Installation using this method is carried out in stages. At the same time, strict adherence to all technological recommendations that have been tested by experts and proven their importance is of particular importance.

The adhesive installation method is used if the board is planned to be laid on a concrete surface, which must be well primed before starting work. If the apartment is located on the first floor of a building, where there is a high probability of dampness penetrating the ceilings and walls, then it is best to impregnate the floors with a deep penetration waterproofing compound, which will protect the surfaces from moisture and mold. The primer must be applied not only to the floors, but also to the lower part of the walls, in a strip of 100÷120 mm. If the solution will be applied in several layers, then each of them must be well dried.
The next step is to lay a parquet board along one of the walls, and between it and the wall, at a distance of approximately 400÷500 mm from each other, special plastic or wooden inserts are installed that will provide a compensation gap. They will allow the flooring material to expand as the room temperature rises, allowing the flooring to remain level.

Next, having adjusted the length of the last board in the row (how this is done will be shown in the table below), glue is applied to the floor surface with a spatula to an area 80÷100 mm wider than the outer line of the row. After application, the glue is spread over the surface with a notched trowel.
Now it's time to lay the parquet board on a layer of glue. It must be immediately precisely joined together using locking joints - this process is carried out in the same way when laying the board in any of the three ways.

When the entire row of boards has been laid, in some cases the coating can be additionally fixed to the floor using self-tapping screws through pre-drilled holes in the grooves. Holes are drilled in increments of 300÷350 mm.
Then the adhesive mass is again applied to the concrete base and distributed over its surface.
In the second row, the board is laid with a shift of half (or 1/3) relative to the already glued board. First, the boards are joined along the length, and then connected to the elements of the first row, after which they are fixed with self-tapping screws to the base.

If two rows do not fit tightly to each other, that is, if there is a gap between them, a smooth block is placed at the edge of the outer row and carefully tapped with a rubber hammer so as not to break the locking joint on the parquet board. Melt tapping is carried out until the gap becomes almost invisible.
The entire floor covering is glued in a similar manner.
Do not allow glue to get on the front side of the parquet board. If this happens, the drops are immediately removed - for this you should always have a clean rag at hand.
When the floor surface of the room is completely covered with parquet, the coating should be left to dry for 2-3 days, without putting any load on it. It is necessary to consider measures to prevent even accidental passage into the room. The drying time for the glue is usually indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.
After the glue under the coating has completely dried, the seams between the boards should be treated with acrylic transparent sealant, which will reduce the risk of moisture from the outside getting under the boards.
When the sealant has completely cured, you can remove the inserts along the walls and begin installing the baseboards, as well as the interior threshold.

It must be said that the adhesive fastening method is chosen if the floor surface has slight unevenness, which can be corrected using a layer of glue. Therefore, when installing a parquet board using a similar technology, you need to carefully press it to the floor surface.

TO positive aspects Adhesive installation of the coating can include:

The ability to use this material in areas of any size.
Higher resistance to increased loads.
The method is suitable for installing parquet boards on top of a screed installed above a warm water floor.

TO shortcomings glue installations include:

Costs for purchasing glue.
Possibility of using the room only after the glue has completely dried.
More complex installation of the coating.
Inability to correct mistakes made in masonry.
Difficulty in replacing damaged boards.

Installation of parquet boards on logs

Laying parquet boards can be done in two ways - fixing it directly on the logs or on the one laid on them plywood

If you choose the first installation option, then you need to take into account that the thickness of the parquet board must be at least 22 mm. Only in this case is it guaranteed not to bend under external load. In addition, the logs must have big enough width (about 80÷90 mm) and laid on the base in small increments - usually 400 mm. The parquet board, which is fixed directly to the logs, is laid perpendicular to them. Board joints in one row are made in the middle of the joist width.

The second option involves fixing the logs to the base in increments of 500÷600 mm, since plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm are laid on them before laying the boards.

Both one and the other installation options are convenient if the floors need to be insulated or leveled by aligning the logs in a horizontal plane.

The logs selected for parquet flooring must be well and properly dried. There should be no deformation of the timber or board, otherwise the finished floor may begin to creak over time.

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parquet glue

Depending on how much you plan to raise the finished floor above the base, the joists can be fixed directly to the base, or raised above it and leveled using special racks or studs.

If floors with joists are installed in a private house or in an apartment located on the ground floor of a high-rise building, then a concrete base is required waterproof. This can be done using special coating solutions, impregnations, thick polyethylene film or roofing felt.

Logs are fixed on top of the waterproofing, between which insulating material is laid, which is covered with a dust-proof film. It is especially important to take this into account if mineral wool is used as insulation.

Then, sheets of plywood are fixed along the joists using self-tapping screws, between which a compensation gap of 2.5÷3 mm must be provided. Fastening screws are screwed into the joists through the plywood covering in increments of 150÷180 mm. The edge of each plywood sheet should be in the middle of the joist.

Installation of parquet boards using “floating” technology - step-by-step instructions

Due to the fact that the most popular method of laying parquet boards is its “floating” version, it will be considered in the table below - from the beginning of the work to its finale.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	So, the first step is to lay waterproofing material on the leveled and primed base. In this case, polyethylene film was chosen for this purpose. The illustration clearly shows that the waterproofing is laid not only on the horizontal surface of the floor, but also on the walls - it is raised by about 100 mm. It is not necessary to fix the waterproofing on the walls, however, if a thin material is chosen that will fall on the floor and interfere with work, then it can be temporarily fixed to the wall with masking tape. But, it would still be better to choose a thick film - this will reduce the time required for gluing it.
	The next step is to lay a backing on the waterproofing material. In this case, dense foamed polyethylene was chosen, but it can easily be replaced with cork roll or slab material. First, only one sheet of roll-type underlay is laid along the wall, from which the installation of the parquet board will begin, since if you cover the room completely, it will interfere with the work, moving in one direction or the other. Typically, flooring begins to be laid from the left corner of the room, no matter how its installation is planned - along or across the room.
	After this, a pre-designed material laying scheme and prepared spacer wedges are taken, which must be temporarily installed between the wall and the parquet board. The thickness of the spacer wedges should be 10÷15 mm.
	The next step is to lay the first parquet board. Temporarily it is pressed against the walls to determine the evenness of its position.
	Now it's time to create an expansion gap between the wall and the flooring material. It is created using spacer wedges installed on all sides of the board bordering the walls. The board is pressed tightly against these wedges. The pitch between the wedges along the long side of the board should be about 500 mm.
	Next comes the laying of the second board of the first row. It is fastened to the first by means of a docking lock.
	Docking locks from different manufacturers may vary slightly, but usually when connected they seem to snap together.
	It is important that the second and subsequent boards are installed exactly the width of the previous board. If one of them is shifted to the outside, the next row will not be able to match the previous one. This illustration clearly shows what the connection of two boards along the length of a row should look like.
	Having laid out the first row almost completely, except for the last board, which, as a rule, has to be cut, use a tape measure or metal ruler to measure the distance from the wall to the end of the laid board. At the same time, I take into account the fact that it is necessary to leave a compensation gap of 10÷15 mm, which was mentioned above. Therefore, in order to accidentally prevent errors when measuring, it is best to attach a spacer wedge to the wall and measure the distance from it.
	The next step is to apply a whole board to the end of the first row, then it is turned face down and the length of the desired segment is laid on the wrong side. Next, following the mark along the construction corner, a line is drawn perpendicular to the edges, along which a cut is made using a circular saw or electric jigsaw.
	The prepared section is joined to the rest of the boards of the first row, while spacer wedges are also installed along the wall.
	The second part of the board, from which a piece was cut to complete the first row, very often begins the second row (if the length of this piece allows). It is connected to the first row with a lock located along the long side of the board.
	Next, the second board of the second row is laid. The difficulty of laying it is that it needs to be fastened with locks to the previous and adjacent boards. Some joints are designed to join boards first along the length of a row, and then fasten the second row to the first. Others, as shown in the illustration, are first joined to the board of the first row and then joined to the previous board. The entire floor covering is laid in the same way. However, there are probably places in any room that make work difficult.
	In order for the board to lie neatly near the front door, and the threshold to be in its opening, a cut is made in the lower part of the door frame to the wall, as shown in the photo. However, the board is not put in place yet, since it can be damaged by further actions.
	The next step is to mark the location of the threshold, which will press the edges of the boards in the doorway. To do this, it is necessary to lay a support along the width of the opening, onto which the threshold will then be attached. Along it, from the side of the parquet being laid, you need to run a sharp knife in order to cut off a strip of the backing material, which will interfere with the tight fit of the underfloor to the base.
	Next, marks are made using a marker or pencil through the mounting holes provided in the support. Then the supports are removed, and holes are drilled according to the markings.
	Plastic dowel plugs are inserted into the holes. Then the support is installed in place, which is secured with self-tapping screws screwed through the holes into the dowel plugs located in the base.
	Next, you can prepare a place for mounting the board, which will fit into the groove cut in the door frame. Since the board, due to its installation in the gap, will not be able to be lifted and secured with a lock, as happened when installing the remaining boards, part of the lock is removed from the already laid board using a chisel. This process will have to be carried out not only along the length of the board, but also along its width.
	Then, carpenter's or other glue is applied in a strip to the cut sections of the boards, intended for fastening wooden parts.
	Now the board is slipped into the gap under the door frame and advanced to the already laid covering. The edges of the board are pressed tightly against the cut locking lines with glue applied to them.
	If necessary, the glued board can be knocked through the timber provided for this purpose, using a hammer, since there should be no gap left in the connection of the board with the main covering. Similar operations will need to be performed on the other side of the doorway.
	The next step is to lay the rest of the boards, with one edge facing the doorway. They are laid edgewise on the supports fixed with self-tapping screws. After this, the edges of the boards are pressed from above with a threshold, which is screwed together with the boards to the threshold. Thus, the edges of the boards will be fixed to the base, and also sandwiched between two metal strips of the threshold.
	If you plan to continue laying the parquet board in the next room, then instead of a metal threshold, you can install a plastic joining profile. To do this, its lower part is fixed to the base, and after laying the boards, the gap between them is covered with a profile that connects to the bottom. It must be remembered that a compensation gap of 4÷5 mm must be provided between the lower element of the profile and the boards.
	Another rather difficult area for laying parquet boards is the heating pipes that go into the interfloor ceiling. Of course, you can finish the board by reaching the pipes, and also place a piece of flooring material behind them, along the wall, but such installation will look extremely sloppy. In addition, dust will collect in the remaining gap, as well as between the pipes. Solving this problem is quite simple by laying a board in front of the pipes and marking their location along its width.
	Then the board is moved and laid next to the pipes, and using a construction square, a line for the location of the risers is marked on it, which will intersect the previously marked lines.
	This way, points will be found where holes will need to be drilled.
	To drill holes you will need a core drill of the required diameter. For this version of the pipes shown in the picture, a crown with a diameter of 30 mm was used.
	The next step is to make a cut along a line running across the board. The cut should go through the middle of the round holes. Now you can assemble the resulting structure into a single coating. To do this, the cut part of the board is placed behind the pipes and installed so that the semicircles are located near the back of the pipes.
	Then, waterproof wood glue is applied to the end of the board, after which the rest of the board is moved to the front of the pipes and joined to the segment, that is, pressed against the end on which the glue is applied. After this, the gaps remaining between the pipes and the board are closed with special decorative frames that look like donuts. These masking parts have connectors that allow them to be separated in two and installed on different sides of the pipe, and then assembled into a single structure. These elements will not only close the gaps from dust getting in, but will also give the passage of pipes through the flooring a neat appearance.
	Many craftsmen installing parquet boards for the first time have problems laying the last row. The difficulty is that you need to manage to join the board or its cut part with the rest of the covering.
	If the boards of the last row are not pressed tightly against the previous row, it must be tightened using a special device called a bracket. It is inserted into the gap between the board and the wall, and then tapped on its second, upward-curved edge. Tamping is carried out until the board is pressed tightly against the rest of the covering and snaps into place.
	Having pulled up the last row of flooring, you can remove the spacer wedges and proceed to installing and securing the baseboard brackets to the wall.
	These parts can have different shapes, and they are selected depending on what type of baseboard you plan to use for the floor covering. The brackets are fixed to the wall in increments of 400÷500 mm.
	The plinth can have a flat or figured shape. As a rule, a cable channel is provided on its inner side for communications. Therefore, before installing the plinth into the brackets, cables are laid in it.
	Now all that remains is to install the baseboard in place. It can simply snap onto the brackets or be screwed to them. If the latter option is chosen, then a blank strip is temporarily removed from the middle part of the element, which will open a channel through which the baseboards will be fixed to the brackets. Then, the strip is returned to its place, which will disguise the heads of the mounting screws. It is important that the plinth may have a different design and be attached in a different way. But its fixation should never be carried out to the floor covering - exclusively to the wall!
	The last step is to carefully cut off the waterproofing material protruding above the baseboard using a sharp knife. The knife must be very sharp so that the film can be cut easily, since pressing on the wall can damage its finish.
	The result of the work done will be a neat, warm and very practical floor covering that will last, with proper care, for many years.

Now, after careful study submitted above material, you can proceed to the practical implementation of the recommendations given in it. As you can see from the step-by-step instructions, the “floating” installation of parquet boards can be done independently by leveling and properly preparing the base for its installation.

And finally, traditionally, a short video that demonstrates the process of laying parquet boards on a plywood base.

Video: Glue method of laying parquet boards on a plywood base

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