Yucca is a plant that came to us from the southern part of North America, a very spectacular evergreen. Its appearance is somewhat reminiscent of a palm tree. It is interesting that in its homeland the plant is used for household needs; once upon a time the very first denim fabric was made from yucca fiber, and very high quality.
Yucca is a fairly large massive plant; it can grow up to 4 meters in height, so it can decorate spacious halls and rooms. An adult plant is classified as expensive, therefore, its care must be appropriate, remember this.
Proper flower care
The location must be chosen correctly. Yucca is a southern resident, so choose the south side at home, it is advisable that the sun's rays fall on the plant, if there are none, you can use lighting make artificially.
A lack of sun will only make your beauty stretch out, and the leaves will turn yellow and begin to fall off.
Temperature and air humidity: the most optimal temperature for a flower is considered to be from 18 to 25 degrees in summer, and in winter it grows well from 16 to 18 degrees.
If the temperature drops below 12, yucca may die, but it can withstand hot summers freely and can be taken out to open air.
Dry air is not scary for most species, and you don’t have to spray it. But representatives from humid regions must be sprayed regularly, to avoid burns, make sure that the sun does not fall on wet leaves.
Watering: yucca tolerates drought very well, so in summer watering once a week will be optimal, but in winter you don’t need to water it within 10 days, but no more than this period.
Proper watering is as follows: first you need to check how well the earthen ball has dried. The dried layer should be approximately 5 cm. Water must be settled, better filtered.
For sufficient watering, be guided by the calculation of 5 liters of soil - 1.25 liters of water.
Bloom. Yucca in bloom is a simply stunning sight. The inflorescence is in the form of a dense panicle, up to 2.5 meters in length, in which there is a large content of flowers, resembling bells, white, pink, beige.
But unfortunately, it is almost impossible to admire such beauty at home.
Feeding yucca
To do this, you can use the simplest mineral fertilizer for house plants, as well as a solution of organic fertilizer once every 3 weeks. Can be used granular fertilizers. Enough in the spring once a year.
With the foliar method, the solution is applied to wet leaves on both sides. In winter they do not fertilize.
The size of the pot should be 3 cm larger than the root system, with holes in the bottom, preferably clay. Place expanded clay or fine crushed clay on the bottom Red brick.
Make a mixture for planting from equal parts of leaves, humus, sand and turf soil with adding gravel or a substitute.
If the roots completely fill the pot, this is a signal to replant. Young yucca is better replant annually, then it is enough to replant once every 3 years, and amateurs can replant 2 times a year.
Yucca reproduces very easily with proper care. There are 3 main methods. The first is sowing with seeds: sowing is done in light soil, then the container is covered with glass or film, ventilated every day so that moisture does not form, for a month shoots will appear, and when they are slightly stronger, they are transplanted into separate pots.
The second method is with lateral shoots, which are separated from adult plants. In order for the babies to take root, they are placed in sand, always wet, or simply in glass of water, but preferably clean.
The last propagation method is cuttings. The top of the plant is best suited for this. about 10 cm long.
Be sure to treat the cut with ash or activated carbon and dry it for half a day. Remove leaves, leaving only 1-2. Plant the cutting in moist soil. To keep it moist spray constantly.
If you use the middle part of the stem, place it horizontally in the ground and lightly press it down. After some time, the dormant growth points will begin to sprout. Afterwards the cuttings are cut into separate shoots.
Brown spotting on leaf blades is a fungal disease. Appears mainly with high humidity or overwatering.
If detected, damaged leaves are removed, and the plant is watered less frequently than usual; spraying will also have to be abandoned once and for all for some time.
Plant stem rotting– is also a sign of a fungal disease. The fungus develops along the entire length of the stem with lightning-fast growth rates.
The disease occurs when yucca is kept in a room that is poorly or not at all ventilated. If a small part is affected, it should be delete faster, but if the flower spreads widely, unfortunately, it can no longer be saved.
Spider mite– the insect is very small and inconspicuous, translucent in color. Signs of its presence on plants are whitish spots on leaf surfaces.
Subsequently, the leaves wither and fall off. The mite infects leaves in excessively dry air. It is necessary to spray with chemicals - Actellicom, Derris or Fufan.
False shield- a winged insect, on a body with a waxy shield. When the plant is affected, the leaves change color, dry out, fall off, and the growth of the flower slows down. In order to get rid of the pest, take a sponge and soak it in the Aktelik preparation, wipe the leaves thoroughly, and then spray the plant.
Try growing yucca, and you will have a warm corner of the south at home, even harsh winter.
Anthurium lives naturally in South and Central America. There it is known as “fire tongue”, the second name of the plant “flamingo flower”. We call this flower “male happiness” - people believe that if you take good care of it, happiness will come to your home. It blooms, forming a bright red heart, but there are varieties with other colors.
The plant has an extraordinary appearance. Thanks to its inflorescences-cobs and a smooth shiny surface, it has an external gloss and stands as if covered with wax.
Types and varieties
The dark green leaves of the plant are leathery and can have different shapes: heart, elongated, broadly lanceolate, whole, dissected. The main decoration of anthurium lies in the exotic inflorescence, which can be, depending on the type, from snow-white to dark red shades, there are also black ones.
There are about 800 types of crops, but only a small part of them are bred at home. The most famous are:
- Anthurium Andre,
- Crystal,
- Scherzer.
Conventionally, all plant varieties are divided into three types:
- Beautifully flowering.
- Green-leaved.
- Variegated.
Most varieties can only grow in greenhouse conditions; they are difficult to grow in apartments.
Andre is an epiphyte, reaches a length of one meter, its leaves are large and its roots are aerial. The peduncle is about 15 cm, the glossy heart-shaped spathe with a metallic sheen grows up to 20 cm.
Scherzera is a more common species among gardeners. Smaller in size than the previous one, stem up to 40 cm high. The leaves are matte, leathery, dark green in color and covered with dots on both sides. The peduncle reaches 30 cm, the spathe is orange-red, and the spadix is orange or yellow.
Variegated varieties are represented by the most recognizable: crystal and majestic. They are similar to each other. Low-growing, large leaves of dark green color, velvety with white veins. The difference is in the cross-section of the leaf petiole: the majestic one is tetrahedral, while the crystal one is round.
Climbing, Hooker, Baker, five-leaf and some others are also used for landscaping.
Anthurium flower: care at home
In order for the plant to be comfortable, basic conditions must be observed, such as humidity, heat and light. If you bring its existence closer to natural, then the flower will delight you with the splendor of green foliage and long-lasting flowering from early spring until autumn.
Rules for watering and fertilizing
Anthurium is a tropical plant, so it needs abundant but infrequent watering. In summer, it is watered without stagnation of moisture in the pan once every 3-4 days. If the water stagnates, this can lead to mold and mildew, which will damage the root system.
Caring for anthurium at home should be accompanied by applying fertilizers during the growth period. It should be fed with mineral and organic fertilizers once every two weeks. The water used must be soft.
During the dormant period, that is, in winter, watering is sharply reduced. Water only once a week, but continue to moisturize with frequent spraying, use warm showers and use humidifiers. It is recommended to wipe the leaves with a soft, damp sponge to remove dust and provide additional moisture. Male happiness - anthurium does not like dry soil.
Air temperature
All tropical plants, including this flower, prefer warm conditions. Is comfortable temperature from 20 to 25 degrees during the growing season and not lower than 18 in winter.
Remember that this male flower will not withstand drafts. It is better to place it in a secluded place where there are no circulating air masses, but fresh air is still available.
Lighting
Properly organized plant lighting is the key to successful care. The best option would be diffused sunlight. Direct exposure to sunlight can damage the leaves of a delicate flower and ruin its appearance.
In order for a tropical guest to live well in the summer, it can be placed on eastern or western window sills. In winter, move the plant to the south side of the room.
If the sun is active, then place the pot with the plant at a distance of one meter from the window. This is how you protect him from the negative effects of direct rays.
The plant stops growing and does not bloom if it does not receive enough light. The lack of light can be “read” by its leaves; they become deformed. The flower should be cared for in another, more suitable place.
In the spring, the anthurium is transplanted into a wide, low container with a good drainage system. The flowerpot is selected according to the plant and should not be too large, otherwise it will negatively affect the flowering of the plant. Care must be taken during transplantation as it can easily be damaged. fragile leaves and roots.
When covering with soil, make sure that the rosette of leaves remains visible and the roots are well covered. If roots become visible as the plant grows, they should be covered with damp moss. And in the future, to prevent the roots from drying out, it must be kept constantly moist.
Anthurium is not a fast-growing plant, so replanting should be done every 1-2 years. Do not rush to transplant a newly purchased plant into a new pot, because anthurium needs time to adapt to new conditions. An adult flower is replanted after three years.
If the plant is replanted more often, this can lead to the growth of the root system and leaves due to the formation of buds.
The soil
“Male Happiness” likes a composition of coarse fibrous deciduous, light turf soil and particles of bog moss as a substrate. This mixture retains moisture well and is close to the natural soil where the anthurium comes from. The root system needs air, so the substrate needs to be loose.
The flower does not accept alkali, so it should not be present either during watering or in the soil. Preferred slightly acidic soil reaction. To carry out a transplant, it is not necessary to prepare the mixture yourself; it can be purchased at a specialized store.
Reproduction
Anthurium is propagated by the following methods:
To get seeds, pollination should be done. Using a cotton swab, periodically transfer pollen from one inflorescence-cob to another. As a result, the fruit will appear; when it is ripe, it must be removed with tweezers with extreme caution. The seeds ripen for about 8 months, after which they are removed from the fruit and washed with a weak solution of manganese.
Seeds are sown evenly on loose soil with a thin layer of perlite. Then they are pressed into the substrate with the bottom of the jar, and the container is sealed hermetically with glass or film. Shoots appear after a few weeks. When the young plant shows two leaves, it is dived into the mixture, which consists of equal proportions charcoal, leaf soil, peat and mullein. As the plant grows, it is transplanted into larger containers.
Diseases and pests: how to treat at home?
When the rules of care are violated, various troubles arise with the flower.
- Yellow leaves indicate insufficient heat in the room where the anthurium is located. The flower should be moved to warmer conditions, and the air humidity should be reduced for a short period of time.
- If a plant does not bloom, then this can be caused by three reasons. The first lies in insufficient lighting, the second in a lack of nutrients, the last in a large volume of containers.
- Yellowish or brown spots form on the leaves, which spread and cause them to fall off. The disease is called anthracnose or septoria, it spreads through a diseased plant. Anthurium is also often tormented by downy mildew. It is manifested by yellowing and curling of leaves, which decrease in size.
- Leaves may turn black as a result of inappropriate water and improper watering.
- The plant should not be watered with hard or cold water; it must be purified or settled.
- Water should come out freely through the holes in the bottom of the pot; half an hour after watering, it should be removed from the pan.
Other causes of blackening and curling of leaves include fungus. Gray rot occurs due to excessive humidity, it affects individual parts of the plant. Root rot is very dangerous, leading to the death of the entire plant.
Pests
In addition to fungal and viral infections, diseases can also occur as a result of pest damage. Anthurium is striking aphids, scale insects and spider mites. To avoid their appearance, the leaves of the crop should be washed with warm water. But if the plant is already infected, you should treat it with a soap solution or apply an insecticide, which are equally effective against the pest.
From all of the above we can conclude that this culture requires increased attention. However, for lovers of indoor plants, caring for it is not very difficult. A little care shown to this tropical guest and the expenditure of effort will result in great pleasure from contemplating the exotic beauty that the anthurium will reward you with.
Male happiness anthurium
Flower yucca (lat. Yucca) belongs to the genus of evergreen tree-like plants of the Agave family, although not so long ago it was included in the Liliaceae subfamily. Sometimes the plant is called "yucca palm", although it has nothing to do with palm trees. In floriculture, trees such as yucca and dracaena are called false palms. Yucca is native to the arid regions of Mexico and Central America. All 30 plant species are divided into two groups: stemless and tree-like. In nature, the tree-like yucca plant can grow up to 12 meters in height, while domestic yucca grows no higher than 2 m.
This is a beautiful, low-maintenance tree that can serve as a worthy decoration for a large room or office. Yucca flowers are sometimes called the “denim tree” because the first denim fabric was made from their fibers.
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Planting and caring for yucca (in brief)
- Bloom: Decorative deciduous plant, does not bloom at home.
- Lighting: bright sunlight (near the south window). There should be at least 16 hours of daylight, so in winter you will need additional artificial lighting.
- Temperature: in summer - usual for residential premises, in winter - not lower than 10 ˚C.
- Watering: abundant, after the soil dries to a depth of 5-7 cm.
- Air humidity: any, but dry air is easier to tolerate.
- Feeding: from April to August, once every 2-3 weeks, yucca leaves are sprayed from the underside with a very weak (twice weaker than the manufacturers recommend) solution of complex mineral fertilizer.
- Rest period: from October to February.
- Transfer: in the spring, once every 2-4 years.
- Reproduction: seeds, apical cuttings, parts of the trunk.
- Pests: scale insects, spider mites, aphids, thrips.
- Diseases: stem and root rot, bacteriosis, gray and brown spots, bacterial burn.
Read more about growing yucca below.
Yucca flower - growing features
Caring for a yucca palm tree will not require much sacrifice from you. The only prerequisite for yucca in home floriculture is good lighting. The homeland of the yucca plant is desert and semi-desert areas, where it grows under the hot sun, so it is best to place it in close proximity to a southern window, but if the western or eastern window is well lit, you can place the yucca near them.
The second distinctive feature of the plant is that yucca does not bloom indoors, although in nature it blooms with large white bell-shaped flowers collected in panicles. If you arrange it for the winter in an insulated loggia, you may well have a chance to see the yucca bloom: the formation of flower buds occurs only during a long stay in the cold.
If you are impatient, buy a mature plant straight away, as yucca grows very slowly. However, keep in mind that yucca is popular, so it will cost you a lot.
A yucca's daylight hours should last at least 16 hours, which means that in winter it will be necessary to provide artificial lighting for it.
In all other respects, caring for the yucca plant is simple, you can even forget about it for a while, and it will not wither away from it.
Caring for yucca at home
How to care for yucca at home
So, you have placed the yucca in a well-lit place where it will not yearn for the sunny climate of its homeland. As for watering, the main sign that it is time to moisten the soil is when it dries to a depth of 5-7 cm. To water five liters of soil in the summer, you will need approximately 1-1.25 liters of purified or at least settled water at room temperature. During the rest of the year, less water is needed, but you need to water, focusing on the same sign - drying out of the soil in the flowerpot to a depth of 5-7 cm.
If the ends of the leaves begin to darken, you are pouring too much water or watering the plant too often, which can lead to root rot. Yucca prefers a temperature at home from 20 to 25 ºC in summer, and not lower than 10 ºC in winter, but without drafts.
Yucca does not care about air humidity, but dry air is still preferable to humid air. This does not apply to the rare moisture-loving species of yucca, for which spraying is required in the summer, and a tray with wet gravel in the winter.
Yucca fertilizer
Yucca is fertilized from April to August every two to three weeks with weak (twice weaker than recommended by the manufacturer) solutions of complex mineral fertilizers by spraying the underside of the plant leaves. The Belarusian fertilizer “Peat Oxidate” is well accepted by the plant. Do not fertilize immediately after transplanting the plant or when the yucca is unhealthy.
Yucca transplant
Yucca is replanted in the spring if the plant’s pot has become too small (usually this happens once every 2-4 years) or it has problems with the root system - rot has appeared, which must be removed immediately. The newly acquired yucca is also replanted, first giving it a couple of weeks to adapt to the new conditions. How to replant yucca? The initial planting of yucca or its replanting is preceded by the selection of the optimal soil composition for the plant.
We offer you this simple but comfortable composition for yucca: one part each of humus, compost, turf soil, sand or perlite. The acidity of the soil mixture should be from 5.5 to 7.5 pH. Alkaline soil does not allow the roots to absorb many microelements. Test the soil: when watering, water should pass through the soil in a matter of seconds and flow out through the drainage hole. If water is retained, then the soil is not suitable for growing yucca.
Buy a deep, stable pot, fill it with a decent layer of expanded clay or fine gravel, then add some yucca soil. If your yucca is healthy, simply transfer it along with the earthen lump from the old container to the new one, add it to the voids of the soil and compact it.
If the plant suffers from rotting of the root system, you will have to first remove the rotten roots. To do this, let the soil in the yucca pot dry thoroughly, remove the yucca from the old pot, carefully shake off the soil from the roots, inspect the roots and remove the diseased parts by sprinkling the sections with crushed coal, then place the plant in a new pot with a drainage layer and fresh soil.
Yucca in winter
If in winter the yucca is in a hot room, and also suffers from short daylight hours, it grows: the leaves become thin, turn pale, droop and fall off, due to the weakening of the plant, harmful insects and various flower ailments begin to overcome it, and the yucca may die. Therefore, caring for yucca in winter consists of maintaining a cool temperature in the room and increasing daylight hours through additional artificial lighting, so that the light falls on the plant for at least 16 hours a day.
If you do not have the opportunity to lower the temperature to a value comfortable for the yucca, you can move the plant itself. For example, for the winter, yucca could be moved to a well-insulated, but not heated balcony or loggia.
Yucca propagation
Propagation of yucca by seeds
Yucca reproduces well by seeds, which must be scarified before planting - damaging the hard shell for faster germination of the seed. This is done by filing the skin of the seed with sandpaper. Scarified seeds are sown in a light earthen mixture consisting of equal parts of sand, leaf and turf soil, to a depth of 2-3 seed diameters and covered with glass or transparent film. The container with the crops is placed in a warm place (25-30 ºC) under bright, diffused light. The soil should be kept moist for ten days. Every day, the yucca crops are ventilated, the film is shaken off, and the glass is wiped dry from condensation.
Shoots usually appear within a month. When the sprouts produce a pair of leaves, they are planted in 100-gram disposable cups with soil of the same composition and a week later the first fertilizing is carried out with a solution of 1 g of nitrophoska in 1 liter of water. Carry out the next feeding of the same type in two weeks. When the yucca forms 4-5 leaves, it is already considered old enough for normal care.
Propagation of yucca by cuttings
Yucca grows so slowly that it takes a long time from the time it is sown until it becomes a tree. How to propagate yucca without waiting so long for it to grow? Not much, but still faster, the process of growing yucca will go if you use the vegetative method of propagation by cuttings.
It is better to carry it out in the spring, before active growth begins, but it is permissible to do it from March to August. The cut of the yucca cutting is pre-dried for 12 hours somewhere in the cool shade, then, leaving only a couple of leaves on it, it is stuck into perlite to a depth of 3-4 cm and fixed vertically. The cutting takes 3-4 weeks to root in constantly moist perlite (this is important!) in bright, diffused light and a temperature of 25-30 ºC. It is advisable to increase air humidity by periodic spraying.
Propagation of yucca by parts of the trunk
When yucca grows too large for your room, you can make two or more smaller specimens from it. The top is cut off with a sharp knife and, having powdered the sections with crushed coal and dried for a couple of hours, they are rooted in boiled water, and after the roots appear, they are planted in the ground. If the trunk is too large, part of it can be cut off and placed in a pot, laying it horizontally on wet sand and pressing lightly against it. Soon the sleeping buds will wake up and sprout shoots with roots. You need to cut the yucca trunk into pieces according to the number of shoots, process the cuts and plant the sections in separate pots.
Treat the cut of the stump from the divided trunk with charcoal and continue to care for this remnant of yucca as usual, only slightly reduce watering. Soon, fresh greenery will appear on the stump.
Pests and diseases of yucca
Insect pests and possible diseases of yucca
Caterpillars, scale insects, spider mites, aphids, thrips and some other pests can appear on yucca when it has health problems. Most often this happens when the plant is watered incorrectly or excessively. Immediately eliminate the cause of weakened yucca immunity and treat pests with systemic insecticides in accordance with the instructions.
A dysfunctional plant can also be affected by diseases, such as stem, root or bacterial rot, as well as gray and brown spots and fire blight. But you should know that a plant that is properly cared for very rarely gets sick.
Yucca turns yellow
Many novice flower growers anxiously ask the question: “What to do if the yucca turns yellow?” It is quite possible that you have been frightened by the natural process of ridding the plant of its lower leaves. But this is exactly how yucca grows up, so your anxiety is unfounded. But sometimes experienced flower lovers, who are well aware that yucca sheds its lower leaves, ask the same question (why does yucca turn yellow?), especially after the spots of yellowness acquire an elliptical shape and then turn brown. The plant acquires this appearance when it is infected with brown spot. Treat your yucca, but first address its lack of care.
Yucca leaves are drying up
If the lower leaves of the plant dry out, then there is no need to worry - in the natural course of things, the yucca is preparing to shed them. If dryness and yellowness also affect those higher leaves, then this is a sign that the yucca is hot and not light enough. If the tips of the leaves dry out, you will have to increase the air humidity in the room and re-read the rules for watering the plant.
Home anthurium - amazingly beautiful a plant that will decorate the interior of your room and will fill the atmosphere with coziness, a pleasant smell and bright colors during flowering. Some species of these plants bloom almost all year round, pleasing the eye with large, bright flowers. Houseplants include approximately thirty species of anthuriums, the beauty of which has long been appreciated by our flower growers for their shiny leaves of various shapes and bizarre inflorescences. Beginning flower growers will be interested in seeing the photos and names of different types of home anthuriums, which we have posted below. You will also learn how to properly organize anthurium care at home.
You have probably heard more than once about spathiphyllums, interesting flowers with the original name “Women’s Happiness”. We hasten to inform you that there is also “Male happiness” in the kingdom of flowers - this is Anthurium Andreanum with wide dark green glossy leaves and bright red bracts, in the center of which there is an oblong white cob. Anthurium "Male Happiness" symbolizes freedom, courage and inner strength of representatives of the strong half of humanity.
But Anthurium Andre is not the only species among indoor flowering plants, which is famous for its beautiful leaves and bright bracts with graceful flowers. Breeders have developed amazingly elegant varieties of anthuriums with burgundy, purple, white, deep red, green and even black bracts. And the variety of leaf options with amazing shapes (spatulate, heart-shaped, dissected, rounded) and unusual patterns is simply amazing! The smell of flowers in different varieties of these indoor plants is also noticeably different.
In previous materials we posted tips on choosing the most unpretentious Ficus species (Benjamina, rubbery) And Dracaena (Marginata, Fragrant, Godsefa), which can be cared for at home Even beginner flower growers are quite capable. Among anthuriums there are also many species, caring for which is not particularly difficult. For example, the already mentioned Anthurium Andre, as well as Anthurium Scherzer, Anthurium Multidissected, Anthurium Crystal with beautiful decorative leaves.
It is important to note that the leaves and flowers of many types of domestic anthuriums are quite poisonous. Do not allow children and pets to chew anthurium pieces, as they can cause dizziness, vomiting, diarrhea, severe abdominal pain and various allergic reactions.
Below you will find photos of these indoor plants, tips on propagation, replanting, pest control, and caring for anthuriums at home.
♦ WHAT IS IMPORTANT!
Location and lighting.
Anthurium loves bright light with fairly diffuse lighting. It is better not to place these plants on windows located in the northern part of the home. From the south side you can put on a flower stand deep into the room opposite the window (or slightly shade the glass if placed on the window itself). The best location option is the western and eastern sides of the room. Avoid placing the anthurium in a place that is too dark or in direct sunlight.
Temperature conditions.
The most important thing is to avoid sudden temperature fluctuations and avoid the constant presence of drafts at the location of the home anthurium.
These indoor plants are heat-loving. In the autumn-winter period, maintain the room temperature at least 16°C, and in the spring and summer - in the range from 20°C to 28°C.
Air humidity.
These plants love high humidity (from 60% to 90%) and therefore need to be watered quite often and the leaves moistened. Do not allow the substrate to dry out during dry periods. In summer, it is recommended to place the pot on a wide tray with damp coarse sand or pebbles. Wipe the anthurium leaves with a damp sponge and regularly spray them with settled soft water from a spray bottle so as not to get on the flower (to avoid the formation of unsightly spots).
Watering.
The plant should be watered regularly with soft, settled water, but without over-wetting the substrate, so as not to rot the roots. Extra water from the pan after watering be sure to drain. During the growing season, the anthurium should be watered more often, but only after the soil mixture in the pot has dried at least half.
Earth mixture and fertilizing.
It is necessary to apply fertilizing during the period of active plant growth (spring-summer period) every two weeks. Be sure to dilute mineral fertilizers in water approximately half as much as the recommended volume indicated in the annotation. If the plant looks weak, it is advisable to apply foliar fertilizers in addition to the main ones. Some gardeners prefer to add organic fertilizers to the substrate. In this case, we recommend adding an infusion of chicken manure to the soil.
The soil mixture itself in the pot should be loose, well-drained, and allow air and water to pass freely all the way to the tray. We recommend using a mixture of deciduous soil, peat, coarse sand in equal proportions with the addition of crushed charcoal and coniferous tree bark.
Transfer.
To transplant an anthurium, choose a tall and sufficiently wide flower pot, at the bottom of which you need to pour a drainage layer of small pieces of brick. Until the age of 5, replant the plant annually at the end of February or March. being careful not to damage the delicate roots. With each transplant, the diameter of the pot increases by about two centimeters. When the plant reaches five years of age, you can perform a transplant once every 3 years. To prevent the aerial roots of the anthurium from drying out, place sphagnum moss around them, which should be slightly moistened from time to time. Be sure to trim off faded inflorescences. The flowers themselves remain on a healthy plant for more than a month, and then gradually begin to fade.
Reproduction.
Cuttings. Stem shoots or apical cuttings are separated. You can root in perlite or clean sand, covered with a glass jar, and periodically ventilating and moistening the substrate.
Seeds. To obtain seeds, you need to pollinate the flower with your own hands during the flowering period of the anthurium. To do this, you need to periodically transfer pollen from one inflorescence-cob to another with a cotton swab. When the fruit appears and ripens, carefully remove it with tweezers. The seeds ripen for about 8 months, after which they must be removed from the fruit and washed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. We sow the seeds evenly on a loose substrate with a thin layer of perlite, and then press the seeds into the substrate with the bottom of the jar. We close the container hermetically (glass, film) and after a few weeks shoots should appear. When a young plant has formed a pair of leaves, it should be planted in a mixture consisting of charcoal, leaf soil, peat, and mullein in equal proportions. Then, as the anthurium grows and develops, it will be necessary to dive it into more spacious pots.
♦ 7 USEFUL TIPS:
1. Water the anthurium in winter only when more than 1/3 of the substrate is dry. Watering too frequently will make the plant very vulnerable to various diseases and spider mite damage;
2. The importance of good soil drainage is especially evident during cold periods. Water should not stagnate at the level of the roots, but flow freely into the pan and then be removed;
3. Add a little softener to settled water for irrigation, as the plant feels comfortable in an acidic environment. If the water is too hard, the tips of the leaves will turn brown;
4. be sure to add peat to the soil mixture and a little sphagnum during replanting;
5. it is not advisable to change feeding to other options from year to year if it has already proven itself well the first time;
6. drafts and direct sunlight are the most dangerous enemies of home anthurium;
7. do not forget that most species of these plants are quite poisonous and can cause various types of poisoning in both people and animals.
♦ 5 COMMON DISEASES AFFECTING ANTHURIUMS:
Stem rot.
Signs: watery black spots appear on the stem of the plant. Sometimes rot spreads to the leaves. Parts of the plant affected by rot die off.
How to eliminate: reduce the air humidity in the room, spray the plants with solutions of drugs such as Saprol or Fitosporin-M;
Vegetable pox (sharqa).
Signs: ring-shaped spots of yellowish or yellow-green color, slightly convex, form on the outside of the leaf blade.
How to eliminate: pruning leaves affected by smallpox; decrease in humidity level, temperature - not less than 18°C;
Fusarium wilt.
Signs: a pink-gray coating appears in the root collar area, the leaves turn yellow and quickly fall off. The disease actively spreads in too warm an environment with high humidity.
How to eliminate: get rid of the carrier of the disease - a fungus, the spores of which usually enter the soil of the plant through water during watering. In this case, it is recommended to thoroughly wash the plant in the shower, treat it with an antifungal agent and replant it in another pot with a new soil mixture;
Enation.
Signs: anthurium leaves begin to grow unevenly and the leaf blades themselves look deformed, with bulges or growths on the leaf surface.
How to eliminate: the reasons may be frequent temperature changes, drafts, high humidity against a background of low temperature. Accordingly, identify and eliminate the causes of the disease.
Thrips.
Signs of damage: light yellow spots of different sizes and shapes appear on the leaves. On the underside of the plate are the brown pests themselves, which secrete a dark-colored liquid
How to get rid of the pest: once a day for a week, spray the plant with insecticides - Tanrek, Actellik or Fufanon. then take a break for 3-4 days and repeat the procedure;
Aphid.
Signs of damage: leaf blades begin to turn yellow and curl. Sticky discharge left by pests may appear.
How to get rid of the pest: thoroughly treat all the leaves of the plant with a sponge and soapy water, and then spray with preparations such as Biotlin, Tobacco Dust, Akarin;
Spider mite.
Signs of damage: small yellow specks appear on the leaf blades, which quickly spread and these affected areas dry out. On the underside of the leaf you can find small insects (half a millimeter) and cobwebs.
How to get rid of the pest: Treat all leaves with a sponge with a soapy solution, and then with mineral oil;
Scale insects and false scale insects.
Signs of damage: yellowish-brown tubercles are clearly visible on the outer surface of the leaf, which can be easily picked off.
How to get rid of a pest: clean off the pests with a soft toothbrush, and then wipe the anthurium stems with a sponge soaked in kerosene.
♦ ANSWERS TO FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS FOR BEGINNING FLOWER GROWERS:
Question: Why doesn't my Anthurium bloom at all?
Answer: Firstly, anthuriums ripen to the appearance of flowers after a certain time from the moment the plant takes root (some species after a year, and others after 4 years). Secondly, it is important to follow the basic rules for caring for this indoor plant at home throughout the year. The pot must be larger than the volume of the root system, avoid drafts and direct sunlight on the plant, do not over-moisten the substrate, apply fertilizing on time and do not change the location of the plant.
Question: Why did my anthurium "Male Happiness" have yellowish spots on the leaves?
Answer: If the leaf blade is covered with small spots and the affected areas are very visible in the light, then most likely there are spider mites on the underside of the blade. And if the leaves are noticeably different in size and the yellow spots are large, evenly distributed over the entire surface of the plate, then most likely the reason is an unbalanced addition of fertilizing.
Question: Why do the leaves of home anthurium turn yellow and fall off?
Answer: Let's look at the most common reasons that cause these problems.
Non-infectious diseases:
Yellow leaves due to improper care (watering, little sun, lack of nitrogen);
Sunburn;
Freezing;
Fungal diseases:
Anthracnose and septoria;
Rust;
Fusarium;
Downy mildew;
Gray rot;
Root rot.
♦ ANTHURIUM ANDRE (MALE HAPPINESS). PHOTO AND CARE RULES:
- click on the photo and expand the instructions.
♦ HOME ANTHURIUM. PHOTOS OF SPECIES WITH NAMES:
♦ CARE OF ANTHURIUM IN PICTURES: